Providing a Unique & Affordable Selection of High Quality Red Wines and White Wines for Your Enjoyment. Also featured: Rosé, Port, Icewine, Champagne and Sparkling Wine for Special Occasions. Cheers!
Both of these wines are produced by Artwinery, a sparkling wine producer in Ukraine that was established in 1950, but whose history goes back to the 19th century.
Ukranian history in the production of traditional method sparkling wines begins with Prince Lev Golitsyn, who bought an estate in Novyi Svit, on the southern shores of Crimea, that was completely destroyed during the Crimean War. By 1882, the Prince's factory was able to revive Crimean winemaking by producing traditional method sparkling wines. During this period, in the town of Bakhmut, in the eastern part of the country, engineer Edmund Farke signed a contract with the government for the construction of alabaster factories, which became a thriving enterprise. The extraction of gypsum for the factories resulted in a large underground mine, 70 metres below ground, which had a micro-climate that allowed for fermentation to take place, and was the beginning of unique wine production in Ukraine.
The celebration of victory following World War II required a special drink, and in the 1940s they started working on creating "Soviet sparkling wine", which had to be of at least equal quality to Champagne. They used the underground galleries of Bakhmut, which was known as Artemivsk back then, for the production of classical sparkling wines, and by 1950, the wine factory was officially established. These wines were tasty, high-quality, and the most hard-to-find in the U.S.S.R., as they were distributed mostly in stores for those that worked for the party, while off-limits to ordinary citizens.
As Ukraine gained its independence in 1991, the wine factory began creating sparkling wines under its own brands - Artemivske and Krim. In 2007, the winery began upgrading the plant with more modern and powerful units, while the laboratory was completely renovated. Furthermore, some processes that were manually performed are also now automated. These upgrades allowed the winery to produce 25 million bottles per year. In 2016, the company got its new name - Artwinery. By 2020, Artwinery's sparkling wines were gaining global recognition and winning prizes at international industry competitions and exhibitions.
Today, Artwinery is the largest in Eastern Europe and the only one in Ukraine to produce sparkling wines in the classic Champenoise method where re-fermentation of the wine and its saturation with bubbles is carried out naturally in bottle. As we know - place matters, and as such, Bakhmut is situated at the same latitude and climatic zone as Champagne. The grapes used to create Artwinery's sparkling wines are grown in the fertile soils of southern Ukraine, in the sunny climates of Odesa, Kherson, and Mykolaiv. With the war in Ukraine ongoing, the workers continue producing wine in secret locations to not let the Russians stop their work.
These particular sparkling wines are from Artwinery's Artemivske range. The Artemivske brand is only 10 years old, but has become the #1 sparkling wine in Ukraine and is a favourite among several generations as it evokes the warmth of your family memories and the brightest everyday emotions. Today, the Artemivske brand retains its impeccable quality and enjoys constant popularity. Each bottle in the Artemivske range is fermented using their special in-house yeast and aged in bottle for at least 9 months and offers a delicate bouquet and taste. Let's see how these sparkling wines from Ukraine are tasting tonight...
Tasting Notes:
ARTEMIVSKE VICTORY RED SEMI-SWEET SPARKLING - Ukraine (#40768) (MS) - $18.95 Crafted in the Charmat method, this blend of Cabernet, Merlot, and Saperavi has a medium intensity nose that is gently spicy, followed by macerated black cherry, dark berry, milk chocolate, cocoa, dark plum, cassis, and currant aromas. It's mid-weighted and gently sweet with black cherry, plummy, dark berry, savoury spices, and chocolate flavours supported by gently frothy mousse and bright acidity that tempers the sweetness. Quite harmonious and balanced throughout, even some sense of elegance, while savoury cocoa and milk chocolate notes linger on the finish, with very good length. Recommended buy. Score: 88+ pts
ARTEMIVSKE VICTORY WHITE BRUT SPARKLING - Ukraine (#40769) (D) - $18.95 Blend of Chardonnay, Riesling, and Aligoté crafted in the Charmat method. The fresh, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose offers ripe peach, nectarine, honeysuckle, and freshly sliced apple aromas accented with orange and citrus notes. There's a touch of sweetness alongside bitterness on the crisp, refreshing, and slightly frothy light-to-mid-weighted palate with lively acidity and bubbles. Gently sweet flavours of apple, pear, orchard fruit, and white floral, plus notes of peach and citrus. Juicy and succulent on the mid-palate, while leesy notes linger on the essentially dry finish, with very good length. Appealing crowd-pleaser. Recommended buy. Score: 88 pts
Other delicious sparkling wines by Artwinery can be purchased through their Agent - Dionysus Wines & Spirits.
To celebrate , white wine review is a lovely Niagara Riesling that I purchased at the winery while visiting Niagara during the Icewine Festival back in . Of course, this vintage has long sold out, while newer vintages are currently available for purchase from the winery.
Tasting Note:
KACABA RESERVE RIESLING 2017 - VQA Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (D) - $17.95 Screw cap. Lovely, fragrant, medium-high intensity nose of petrol, lemon oil citrus, waxy, white peach, and orchard fruit complexity. It's miedium+ bodied, off-dry and with delicious petrol, lemon/lime citrus, white peach, and green apple flavours with a kiss of sweetness surrounding a core of savoury, stony mineral. It has very good, lively and juicy acidity, along with a nicely chalky textured mid-palate. Leesy, limestone mineral notes linger on the long, dry-ish, crisp, and well-structured finish. Should continue to drink well over the next 3-4 years, and probably longer. Score: 90+ pts
white wine review is a lovely Riesling that I purchased in December of last year. It was a brand-new arrival in the LCBO VINTAGES Release and was slated to be opened during the holidays last year, but it never happened, so here we are a year later.
Surprisingly, there are still about 30 bottles available at the LCBO, while the latest vintage can be ordered via Collab Wine & Beverage.
Tasting Note:
FOGOLAR HUGHES VINEYARD RIESLING 2019 - VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#30664) (M) - $19.95 Screw cap. The fragrant nose offers attractive honeyed and floral characters nuanced with lemon/lime citrus and petrol aromas. It has good weight on the medium+-full bodied, concentrated palate, with lovely honey, floral, lemon/lime citrus, and petrol replays joined by peach, apple, and leesy mineral flavours. It's medium-dry in sweetness, with a crunchy mouthfeel and well-balanced acidity, while tapering to a dry-ish, lightly chalky textured finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts
This white wine is produced by Axel Pauly, the third generation of his family to work the vines on the very steep slopes of Mosel, Germany. Axel started managing the cellar in 2004, after it was passed down from his grandfather to his father, Rudolf. In 2009, Axel took over the entire family estate and, just two years later, unfortunately, the winery burned to the ground. However, it turned out to be a blessing in disguise and Axel had the estate rebuilt over the next several years and, in 2014, it was voted one of the 50 most beautiful vinotheques in Germany by the German Wine Institute. The labels of Axel Pauly wines were designed by Swedish designers and (turn the bottle 90° counter-clockwise for a better visual) feature three curved lines which are actually profiles of three generations of the Pauly family - Peter, Rudolf and Axel. Furthermore, an overhead view of the Mosel River is also embedded in the label.
Axel Pauly is known for producing high-quality wines, and particularly for its Riesling wines. He cultivates his vines on approximately 9 hectares of vineyards that are situated in some of the most prestigious and sought-after locations along the Mosel River, some of which have a gradient of up to 70%! These steep slopes provide the optimal conditions for Riesling cultivation, with the angle of the slopes maximizing sun exposure and heat retention. All of the vineyards face south or southwest, and consist exclusively of different layers of slate rock. When developing his wines, Axel is committed to traditional winemaking techniques, while focusing on naturalness, straightforwardness, and the typical taste patterns imparted by the soils of Mosel. Like many others in the region, Pauly has adopted sustainable and environmentally friendly practices, which helps preserve the unique character of the region and its wines. Axel Pauly wines are characterized by clarity, a crystalline characteristic, length, and great minerality.
This medium-sweet Riesling was grown on grey and blue slate soils in a cool, moderate climate. The grapes were hand-picked from the steep slopes and then macerated for 10 hours, followed by spontaneous fermentation using natural yeasts in stainless steel. The wine was matured on its fine yeast lees for 4-5 months.
The growing season in Mosel in 2021 was significantly cooler and wetter compared to previous years for the south-facing, top vineyards. This was particularly favourable for the vines and allowed them to continue their old successes. The cooler and wetter year was most reflected in higher must weights, which is the amount of sugar in the juice. With Mosel characterized by its steep slopes and 90% of the grapes' white wine varieties, mainly Riesling, most winemakers in the area assessed the grapes positively and in good health, while expecting predominantly fruity and tangy wines. Let's see how this 2021 Mosel Riesling is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
PAULY GENERATIONS RIESLING 2021 - Qualitätswein, Mosel, Germany (#21033) (M) - $25.95 Enclosed by screw cap, this vegan-friendly Mosel Riesling has a medium-high intensity nose that offers slatey, earthy mineral, lemon citrus, and pear aromas with touches of white peach and floral. It has good weight on the medium to medium-full bodied palate with lovely tangy and off-dry flavours of lemon citrus, white peach, pear, and ripe apple joined by hints of honey and floral characters. Fresh, lively acidity keeps the sweetness in check. It's nicely balanced with lightly honeyed, citrus, and mineral notes lingering on the pleasantly long finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts
To cap off the long weekend, for wine review I dive into my cellar from one of my favourite German wine producers for this beautiful Riesling Auslese from Mosel that I purchased nearly a decade ago when it made its debut at the LCBO in the LCBO VINTAGES Release that focused on German Riesling wines. Of course, this is now long gone from shelves, but surprisingly no newer vintage ever made it to the LCBO.
Auslese means "selected", and the grapes for this Riesling Auslese were hand selected from the most ripe bunches in late autumn from the famous Ürziger Würzgarten (Spice Garden) vineyard area located in the town of Ürzig, within the Mosel wine region. The unique soils of Ürziger Würzgarten are volcanic in combination with red slate that deliver very unique wines. Let's see how this 2005 Riesling Auslese from the Mosel is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
DR. HERMANN ÜRZIGER WÜRZGARTEN RIESLING AUSLESE 2005 - Prädikatswein, Mosel, Germany (#324285) (MS) - $21.95 Pours a deep yellow-golden colour. The medium+ intensity nose is a bit quiet, offering maturing, caramelized orange, citrus and peach aromas, plus spices and minerals. It's mid-weighted on the deliciously sweet, maturing, and complex palate with caramelized orange citrus, peach, honey, petrol, spices, and floral flavours framed by well-balanced, bracing acidity that keeps the sweetness in check. Sticky on the mid-palate, while petrol, mineral, and spice notes linger on the long, sticky, dry-ish finish. Drinking beautifully now and should hold well for another 5 years, maybe more. Score: 93 pts
white wine review is a lovely Riesling Kabinett from Mosel that arrived at the LCBO last month as part of the LCBO VINTAGES Release.
It is produced by J & H Selbach, a separate family business from their estate wine producing company - Weingut Selbach-Oster. The company Selbach-Oster was established as an independent business in 1964 to separate the family's estate vineyards from the rest of the business which included making wine from their own grapes and purchased grapes from small growers along the Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer, in the negociant tradition.
The historic Selbach family has a winemaking and shipping tradition that dates all the way back to the 1600s, while the Oster family were winegrowers and coopers going back to the 1700s. Johannes Selbach, who is from the Osters grand-maternal line of the family, is the current owner of Selbach-Oster. He was raised in the municipality of Zeltingen, where the estate is located today within the Mosel wine region, and grew up around the family's vineyards his whole life and made his first wine at at a young age in 1975.
Today, both of Johannes children, Sebastian and Hannah, are involved in the family's small winemaking business. Sebastian has especially developed a passion for wine by working the vineyards and after completing his studies in oenology and viticulture, as well as internships in Germany and abroad, he joined the family estate in 2019. There are no official titles at Selbach-Oster as each day is a joint effort among family members and their employees.
Selbach-Oster owns and farms 24 hectares of vineyards, most of which is old, some up to 100 years old, ungrafted Riesling vines, located on the "golden mile" of Mosel which features the steep, slate slopes from Zeltingen to Wehlen to Graach, and to Bernkastel. The vines are grown in harmony with nature with lots of time-consuming, manual labour, and with meticulous care. The grapes are hand-picked, and often with multiple passes, while fermentation takes place in their cold cellars with mostly wild, indigenous yeast.
From a very good 2020 vintage that is delivering balance and elegance, let's see how this 2020 Riesling Kabinett from Mosel is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
SELBACH TRADITION FEINHERB RIESLING KABINETT 2020 - Prädikatswein, Mosel, Germany (#21031) (M) - $24.95 The nose seems rather quiet with glimpses of citrus, orange, white peach, and honeyed aromas. On the rich, concentrated, and medium-full bodied palate it has deliciously off-dry and gently spicy flavours of citrus, white peach, ripe apple, and honey with touches of slatey and leesy minerals. It's nicely textured on the mid-palate with crisp, vibrant, and refreshing acidity that balances the sweetness, while leesy mineral notes linger on the sticky, juicy, long, and dry-ish finish. Recommended buy! Score: 90 pts
You may find some wines by Weingut Selbach at the LCBO, but your best bet is to reach out to their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.
Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, off-dry Riesling from Germany that is featured as a Smart Buy in the recent January 7 LCBO VINTAGES Release and is readily available across the Ontario.
Weingut Gunderloch was founded in 1890 when banker Carl Gunderloch purchased the fabled Nackenheimer Rothenberg. Not content with just making wine, Carl had a pioneering spirit and led the charge toward quality-oriented viticulture within the region and was a fierce proponent of fine winemaking culture. Gunderloch is a founding member of what is now known as the Verein Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter (VDP), a prestigious association of Germany's finest winegrowers, and one of only four estates to have remained a member for the entire span, which goes back to 1910. The estate has been passed down through six generations of the Gunderloch family, with Johannes Hasselbach taking over the winemaking reins upon the sad passing in 2016 of renowned winemaker Fritz Hasselbach.
The 28 hectare estate and Gunderloch family residence is situated within the Rheinhessen appellation. They craft clear, mineral-driven wines, working primarily with Riesling, which reflect the family's unique blend of experience and ingenuity. The centrepiece of Gunderloch are their vineyards on Roter Hang (aka Red Hill), one of Germany's most revered and richly historical vineyards. Set on picturesque, steep slopes that rise above the Rhine river between the towns of Nackenheim and Nierstein, Roter Hang has very special, iron-oxide laced red shale and clayey soils known as Rotliegend, which have taken on an almost mythical status among wine aficionados.
This white wine is crafted with 100% Riesling grapes that were grown on vivid red slate soils on Roter Hang. The vineyards are situated on steep, southeast facing slopes very close to the river Rhine. The four factors - the red slate soil, the closeness to the river, great sun exposure, and the steepness of the vineyards - are the ideal combination to produce high-quality Riesling. This particular Riesling was fermented naturally with indigenous yeasts and, uncommonly, aged in 600 L neutral oak barrels. From one of the most challenging vintages in recent memory, let's see how this 2021 Riesling from Germany is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
GUNDERLOCH FRITZ'S RIESLING 2021 - Qualitätswein, Rheinhessen, Germany (#216366) (M) - $17.95 Screw cap. The medium+ intensity aromatics seem rather quiet, with notes of orchard fruits, apple, peach, and citrus. It's light-to-mid weighted on the palate with fresh, juicy, and bracing acidity that lifts the lovely honeyed, apple, peach, and citrus flavours, gliding over the tongue in an off-dry profile. It's nicely balanced throughout with a subtle chalky textured mouthfeel on the mid-palate, while mineral notes appear and linger through to the long, dry-ish finish. A smart (and highly recommended) buy. Score: 89 pts
You can get other lovely wines by Weingut Gunderloch at the LCBO and through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.
It is produced by Lakeview Cellars, a brand that was established in 1991 by Eddy Gurinskas in Vineland, Ontario, within the Niagara Region. Having built a worldwide reputation over the years for creating premium Niagara wines that are both high quality and affordable, Lakeview Cellars is now owned by Diamond Estates and is one of their oldest wine brands. Lakeview Cellars wines are crafted and sold at Lakeview Wine Co. on Niagara Stone Road in Niagara-on-the-Lake.
Leading the team at Lakeview is Thomas Green, VP of Winemaking and Winery Operations. The Lakeview Cellars brand is nostalgic for Thomas as he began his career at the company in the late 1990s as an apprentice to winemaking under Eddy. After graduating as part of the first graduating class of the Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture program at Brock University in 2000, he remained with Lakeview Cellars. Following Eddy's retirement, Thomas took over head winemaking duties for Lakeview Cellars in January 2003, and Diamond Estates in 2005.
Although the Vidal grape is the main variety used to craft Icewine in Niagara, Riesling comes a close second due to its ability to retain freshness and acidity, which helps balance the sweetness in the wine. The grapes for this Riesling Icewine were sourced from their best vineyards in the Niagara region, kissed by Lake Ontario's offshore breeze. The grapes were harvested in late-December, when they were frozen and temperatures were between -10°C and -13°C. Like the other Lakeview Cellars Icewines I tasted recently, the juice was settled in stainless steel tanks, followed by a cool-fermentation, and then placed outside to complete a natural cold stabilization. Let's see how this Riesling Icewine from Niagara is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
LAKEVIEW CELLARS RIESLING ICEWINE 2019 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#471839) (S) (200 mL) - $34.95 The fragrant nose offers gorgeous aromas of honeyed apricot and peach mingling with candied lemon, ginger, orange peel, and apple. On the medium to medium-full bodied palate it is lightly spicy and has lusciously sweet aroma replays of honey, apricot, peach, lemon, and orange peel with a slightly viscous mouthfeel. Bracing acidity provides just enough freshness to balance the sweetness, while caramel and faintly mineral notes emerge on the lingering finish. Delicious and a highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts
Other lovely Icewines (and table wines) from Lakeview Cellars are available not only at the LCBO, but also direct from the winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake.
After enjoying a fine half day of wine tasting in Marlborough on the first Monday of March, my wine tour through Marlborough continued on . It was a long (and fairly busy day) with visits to five wineries, but very enjoyable nonetheless.
The day began where I spent the night - Villa Maria Estate - one of New Zealand's largest wineries. Villa Maria was founded in 1961 by 21-year-old Sir George Fistonich. Having a Croatian background, George was passionate about wine from a young age and it was central to his upbringing. He leased five acres of land from his father in Mangere, Auckland, and crafted his first wines using the one acre of vines that were planted on the site to form Villa Maria. George understood very early on the importance of regional differences between grape quality and wine styles. He pioneered the use of contract growers - a very common practice in New Zealand these days - and was the first New Zealand wine company to initiate payment for grapes based on quality, rather than quantity. Beginning with the 2002 vintage, Villa Maria was the first major wine company in New Zealand to seal all of their wines by screwcap.
Villa Maria's success is attributed to the team's commitment to quality, innovation, and passion to create the best wines possible, starting with exceptional vineyards and people. It it not surprising that by making quality wines the focus, recognition and awards naturally follow - Villa Maria is New Zealand's most awarded winery.
The team at Villa Maria is very tight-knit. George was keen to nurture the talent of the individuals on the team while also providing winemakers with the opportunity to express their own flair. I had the opportunity to meet with Helen Morrison, Villa Maria's Senior Marlborough Winemaker. Upon graduating from Lincoln University in Canterbury with a bachelor's degree in Viticulture and Oenology, she took on winemaking and judging for a number of years prior to joining Villa Maria in January 2014 where she enjoys working for such an iconic winemaking family with a strong focus on sustainability and environmental responsibility.
Being environmentally responsible has been a core objective for Sir George Fistonich for a very long time, with a strong desire to leave something for the next generation. Villa Maria has been a member of Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ) since its inception in 1995, received its BioGro (Organic) Certification in 2009, and acquired CEMARS Certification in 2010. Some of the many Sustainable Practices employed by Villa Maria include the use of organic vineyards, heat recovery, night air cooling, natural lighting, recycling, and hybrid vehicles - all with the goal of reducing their carbon footprint and impact on the environment. In Fall 2021, Villa Maria was acquired by Indevin.
Starting at 9 a.m. sharp, Helen and I tasted through a number of wines from the Villa Maria portfolio. The range begins with the entry level Private Bin series - a value range of wines that are approachable with consistent quality, and popular with wine drinkers globally. A step up is the Cellar Selection range - wines that are complex, elegant, and food-friendly, with an emphasis on fruit quality and minimal handling. The Reserve range features Villa Maria's most distinguished wines with exceptional quality and ultimate finesse. And finally, the Single Vineyard range features wines with identity, with each wine displaying its own distinct characteristics due to the unique terroir where the grapes are grown. All of the wines I tasted from each range were delicious, while some were really fantastic wines. Many wines from Villa Maria are available at the LCBO, including some in VINTAGES. Wines can also be ordered via their agent - Dandurand. Wine reviews of a few of my favourites from this tasting are provided below.
The second stop of the day was a short drive northwest to Nautilus Estate. I was picked up by winemaker Clive Jones, but before heading to the winery, we took a nice driving tour of some of Nautilus' vineyards, beginning at the Clay Hills Vineyard in the Omaka Valley, Southern Valleys sub-region. This 5.5 hectare site is located on an elevated hillside (120 metres above sea level) with clay soils on the eastern Omaka Valley and is exclusively Pinot Noir that was planted between 1999 and 2004. We then headed north into Wairau Valley and made a quick stop at their organic Renwick Vineyard - with its classic stony "Rapaura" soils - that was purchased in 1992 and was Nautilus' first vineyard.
Following the vineyard visits, we headed to the Cellar Door of Nautilus Estate, a small, boutique winery that was established in 1985 by owner and fifth-generation vigneron - Robert Hill-Smith. Being family-owned, Nautilus takes a cautious, long-term approach to everything they do. They are also a member of the Family of Twelve - a group of 12 prestigious family-owned wineries in New Zealand that they share ideas and time with. In 2000, Nautilus opened the first dedicated Pinot Noir facility in the Southern Hemisphere, and in 2006 they completed a separate, energy-efficient white wine making facility. Over the years, they have maintained their focus on harnessing the different sub-regional flavours in this cool climate region while using innovative winemaking practices to craft textural and complex food-friendly wines that are also vegan and vegetarian-friendly.
Clive and I tasted through the many wines from the portfolio - a pair of traditional method sparkling wines and an array of white wines including their popular Albariño and Grüner Veltliner single varietal wines. We then took a brief tour of the winemaking facility before heading back to the tasting bar to taste a flight of Nautilus Pinot Noir. Clive joined Nautilus as winemaker in 1998 and has overseen their Pinot Noir programme, including the design of the Pinot Noir gravity flow facility. Moreover, the Nautilus Pinot Noir has shown a high pedigree ever since Clive's first year at the estate and today it is considered a Marlborough benchmark.
Wine reviews of a few of my most favourite wines from Nautilus are provided below. The wines of Nautilus are imported into Canada by Negociants International, and their Agent in Ontario is Breakthru Beverage Canada.
A short drive east in the Rapaura area along the northern edge of the Wairau Valley to Allan Scott Family Winemakers was the third stop of the day. As the name suggests, this is a family winery that established itself as one of the first independent wineries in Marlborough in 1990. Allan Scott planted some of the region's most famous vineyards, including the very first, and has worked at the winery every vintage since. Allan is one of the most experienced people in the Marlborough wine business as he has been working in the industry for nearly 50 years after settling in the region in 1973. Allan and his wife, Catherine, purchased a block of land to get into contract growing, setting themselves up for the new era of New Zealand's wine industry when independent winemakers began to emerge. All three of Allan and Catherine's children are now involved in the family's winemaking business.
The eldest daughter, Victoria, is responsible for marketing, while their son Josh is Chief Winemaker. Their younger daughter, Sara, also trained as a winemaker, but mostly works in the vineyard. I had the pleasure of meeting Sara as she gave me a quick tour of the facility. Allan Scott is one of the few wineries in Marlborough with their own bottling line. During the tour, I also was surprised to see that they are packaging wine in kegs so that wines can be served as Wine on Tap. After the conclusion of the tour, we headed to the on-site Allan Scott Bistro for a wine tasting with a fine lunch and great conversation. The Allan Scott Bistro has a lovely sheltered outdoor courtyard (where we enjoyed lunch), as well as indoor dining by the fire. During lunch, I also had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Allan Scott himself and later received a signed copy of his book - Marlborough Man.
Allan Scott is a member of Méthode Marlborough and their Cecilia Brut Méthode Traditionnelle NV (reviewed below) is a lovely Chardonnay-based sparkling wine that I hope comes to the LCBO, although it may be available through their Agent - The Case For Wine. I also learned that Allan Scott is experimenting with ageing sparkling wines under the sea - the wines were dropped into Marlborough Sounds a couple of years ago and they are looking to bring a few back up soon. Allan Scott also practices sustainability, while all wines beginning with the 2018 vintage are vegan-friendly.
In addition to their Marlborough wines, Allan Scott also has a vineyard and winery in Central Otago. As Sara explained to me, Central Otago in the deep south was a family holiday spot when they were younger, often referred to as "our base", with the name eventually morphing to "Scott Base" and the brand Scott Base Wines was borne. I enjoyed the Scott Base Pinot Noir (reviewed below) and it was one of the few wines from Central Otago I tasted on this trip to New Zealand.
The fourth stop of the day was southwest into the Waihopai Valley to visit Spy Valley Wines. The name of the winery comes from its proximity to an international satellite communications monitoring station - a spy base. I discovered the wines of Spy Valley a number of years ago, most notably their barrel-fermented ENVOY Sauvignon Blanc, and have been enamoured with their wines ever since. I met up with Tricia Pike, Cellar Door Supervisor, who gave me a tour of the winery and vineyards, followed by a tasting of many special wines from Spy Valley portfolio.
Spy Valley Wines was founded in the 1990s by Bryan and Jan Johnson when they established 180 hectares of estate vineyards on land in the Waihopai Valley considered too hard, too dry and too unfertile for wine. The terroir at Spy Valley is stony, free-draining riverbed terrain, while the terraced vines sit on both rocky riverside gravels and deeper clay and silt soils. The venture started as a passion for the land and continues today with a commitment to the land and people who tend it - nurturing the soil and vine, and focusing on sustainability to ensure guardianship of the land for generations to come.
Since the beginning, Spy Valley has been accredited under New Zealand Sustainable Winegrowing - an initiative that promotes economically and environmentally sustainable vineyard management. This sustainability initiative encompasses their own winery and vineyards, as well as grower vineyards, and they have seen firsthand how the environment has benefitted. At Spy Valley, some of these sustainability initiatives include biodiversity, minimal irrigation, reduce energy usage by various means such as the use of solar panels. Spy Valley also uses low-toxic and environmentally products in the vineyard and winery. The principles of reduce, reuse, and recycle are prevalent throughout Spy Valley. While their bottles are made out 96% recycled glass, they also crush their own glass to make a fine dust that they mulch and distribute below the vines, thus enhancing light reflection. When I took a stroll through the vineyard with Tricia, she talked about the fine glass dust that sits in the vineyard and that we must be careful. The mission at Spy Valley is to produce quality wines that ensure a sustainable business for the future, while also benefitting the environment. Spy Valley wines come through LCBO VINTAGES throughout the year, but are also available via their Agent - Noble Estates Wine & Spirits.
The fifth and final stop of the day was a 25 minute drive northeast into the mountainous locality of Koromiko, about 20 km north of Blenheim, to visit Johanneshof Cellars. This artisan boutique winery was established in 1991 by Edel Everling, from Germany, and Warwick Foley, a 5th generation New Zealander. Edel's family had been making wine for five generations, while Warwick, as a teenager, planted one of Marlborough's first vineyards on the steep hillside land in Koromiko in 1977. With a long history of European tradition combined with Kiwi ingenuity, they have combined old world knowledge and customs with new world terroir to produce a collection of outstanding New Zealand fine wines.
In keeping with Europe's century old wine culture, Edel and Warwick created New Zealand's first underground rock cellar in 1993. It was tunnelled into solid sandstone and is located underneath their hillside Maybern Vineyard. I had the pleasure of taking a tour and experiencing an intimate tasting in the cellar with Edel and Warwick and their lovely 2009 EMMI Brut Méthode Traditionnelle (reviewed below) which spent 7 years on the lees. The cool, stable temperature and high natural humidity of their underground cellar provides ideal storage conditions to allow the maturation of wines, which are aged in French barriques and German barrels.
Another unique thing about Johanneshof Cellars is the aforementioned Maybern Estate Vineyard. It stretches up behind the estate, on a 30 degree slope, northwest facing, and oversees the winery and cellar door below. The Maybern vineyard is not irrigated and is the only vineyard in Marlborough to have Kenepuru (sandy silt) soils over a bedrock of schist and iron-rich sandstone. All of the wines are made on-site by Edel and Warwick by combining traditional winemaking techniques with modern technology, including the use of gravity to move the wine throughout the facility. Johanneshof Cellars is a member of New Zealand Winegrowers, New Zealand Sustainable Winegrowing, and a founding member of Méthode Marlborough.
Since I was a bit pressed for time because I had a plane to catch to Hawke's Bay, I didn't get a close look at the vineyard, nor the winemaking facility, and instead tasted through almost the entire portfolio that consisted of many lovely wines (a few of my favourites are reviewed below). Unfortunately, the wines from Johanneshof Cellars are not available in Canada at the time of my visit, but they are seeking representation.
This concluded my short trip through Marlborough wine country by visiting eight wineries over two days. The Sauvignon Blanc wines I tasted were lovely, as expected. I was pleasantly surprised by the high quality Pinot Noir wines, as well as the fresh Pinot Gris. The biggest surprise were the white wines made with Albariño and Grüner Veltliner - two grapes not widely planted, but growing in popularity.
Full wine reviews of some of my many favourites wines from Marlborough are below, and my next post is a visit to Hawke's Bay for a full day of wine tasting. Pricing is in Canadian dollars, unless otherwise noted, and would be approximate given the timing of this post.
Tasting Notes:
VILLA MARIA SINGLE VINEYARD SOUTHERN CLAYS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2019 - Southern Valleys, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#447474) (XD) - $29.99 Bottled recently. A single vineyard Sauvignon Blanc with grapes coming from the Southern Clays sub-region within the Wairau Valley that has tight, dense clay soils. With many months on yeast lees, this has fresh, lemony, stone fruit, citrus, herbs, and some yeasty/leesy characters, as well as earthy mineral aromas. On the medium-full bodied palate, it is rich, creamy and nicely textured with very nice citrusy, peach, and grapefruit flavours supported by juicy acids. Very good length on the finish. Needs another 1-2 years to really show itself. Score: 91+ pts
VILLA MARIA SINGLE VINEYARD SEDDON PINOT GRIS 2018 - Awatere Valley, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#497361) (D) - $34.90 From a cool, long ripening site with wind blown silt soils on the southern bank of the Awatere River. One-third of this delicious wine was wild fermented used barrels and had 6 months of lees contact. This single vineyard Pinot Gris has a medium-high intensity nose that is clean and elegant with peach, nectarine, and citrus aromas, plus some leesy, stone fruit, and spice characters. It’s medium-full bodied, fleshy, richly textured and a touch creamy in the mouth. Off-dry on the palate with honeysuckle, ripe stone fruit, peach, ginger spice flavours. It has balanced acids and finishes long with ginger spice, peach, and citrus notes. Score: 92 pts
VILLA MARIA TAYLORS PASS PINOT NOIR 2016 - Awatere Valley, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (XD) - $59.99 NZD Made with Clone 5, 667, and 777 on a terrace furthest away from the Awatere River with an interesting soil split between stony and silty for clones 667 and 777, leading to the grapes being picked in lots and vinified separately. The nose is fresh, elegant, and perfumed with sweet baking spice, raspberry, rhubarb, and cherry aromas, plus some blueberry and mulberry notes. The medium-full bodied palate has lovely, velvety tannins that have some grip on the back palate. Very nice aroma replays on the balanced flavour profile, lingering through to the long, succulent finish. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. Score: 92
NAUTILUS ESTATE CUVÉE MARLBOROUGH BRUT NV - Traditional Method, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (XD) - $39 NZD Made in the traditional method since 1989, consisting of 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay and aged for a minimum of 36 months on the lees in used oak barrels. Lovely, fragrant aromatics deliver biscuity, toasty, yeasty, and lemon citrus notes that have more citrusy and grapefruit replays on the crisp, dry palate. Bubbles are fine while acids are crisp and refreshing. Excellent length on the dry finish. Score: 91 pts
NAUTILUS SOUTHERN VALLEYS PINOT NOIR 2016 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#606913) (XD) - $29.95 Indigenous yeast fermented, with some whole bunch fermentation, and matured in French oak for 11 months. Fresh, medium+ intensity nose is earthy with beetroot, rhubarb, cherry, and spice aromas. It’s medium+ bodied and nicely balanced with lovely aroma replays, plus cran-cherry flavours, supported by fine-grained tannins that offer some structure on the back palate. Balanced throughout with a long, clean finish. Enjoy over the next 6-8 years. Score: 90+ pts
NAUTILUS CLAY HILLS VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2016 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (XD) - $68 NZD 25% whole bunch fermented. Clean, refined and elegant nose features earthy, beetroot, cherry, rhubarb, and subtle sweet spice aromas are quite complex. The medium-full bodied, structured palate is spiced with lovely raspberry replays, plus touches of tea leaf and supported by succulent, juicy acids. Tannins are on the firm side, but well-integrated. Excellent length on the finish with savoury beetroot, rhubarb, and spice notes. Score: 92 pts
ALLAN SCOTT CECILIA BRUT MÉTHODE TRADITIONNELLE NV - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (XD) - $26 NZD Vegan-friendly and predominantly Chardonnay blended with Pinot Noir that spent 18+ months on lees, this has a fairly aromatic and clean nose with biscuity, leesy, yeasty, and citrus aromas with touches of seaweed. It has fine mousse and crisp acids on the palate with citrus and grapefruit flavours, plus biscuity and pastry notes. Long, crisp, and dry with touches of saline on the finish. Score: 90 pts
ALLAN SCOTT WHITE LABEL SAUVIGNON BLANC 2019 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (XD) - $18.95 The restrained, medium-high intensity nose is elegant and clean with ripe tropical fruit, passion fruit, kiwi aromas, and whiffs of minerality. Nicely balanced on the medium-full bodied, slightly creamy palate with very good fruit concentration. Lovely, balanced aroma replays on the flavour profile and supported by vibrant acids that continue through to the long, ripe finish. Vegan-friendly. Score: 91 pts
ALLAN SCOTT SCOTT BASE PINOT NOIR 2018 - Central Otago, South Island, New Zealand (XD) - $38 NZD Lovely, perfumed aromas of raspberry, black cherry, currant, and spice, with some beetroot and earth. It’s medium+ bodied with firm, structured tannins and nice raspberry and black cherry replays layered over earthy tones on the flavour profile. There's fresh, balanced acidity, and a long savoury finish with raspberry and black cherry notes. Should improve in 2-3 years. Score: 91 pts
SPY VALLEY ENVOY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015 - Johnson Vineyard, Waihopai Valley, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#429308) (XD) - $29.95 Naturally fermented in French oak for 6-10 months, this has a highly aromatic and complex nose with smoky, flinty, citrusy lemon/lime aromas and hints of herbally and grassy notes. It’s medium-full bodied with lovely smoky, herbaceous, herbally, green pepper flavours, plus hints of white peach. It has a very nice texture with juicy acids and a long, juicy finish. Should continue to drink well over the next 5 years. Score: 91 pts
SPY VALLEY ENVOY GEWURZTRAMINER 2018 - Johnson Vineyard, Waihopai Valley, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (M) - $34.90 NZD Fermented in small oak barrels, this has a lovely, highly aromatic nose of floral, lychee, rose, candied ginger, and honeyed spice notes. The medium-full bodied palate is rich and spiced with nicely balanced, medium sweet aroma replays. Lively acids freshen the juicy palate. Lovely honeyed spice flavours linger on the long, clean finish. Score: 92 pts
SPY VALLEY HANDPICKED SINGLE ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2016 - Southern Valleys, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (XD) - $32.90 NZD Handpicked as individual vineyard blocks and vinified separately until final blending. Naturally fermented and aged for 11 months in French oak. Lovely, black cherry, spice, earthy, beetroot, and rhubarb aromas that echo on the nicely balanced, lightly oak spiced, medium-full bodied palate with very good fruit concentration. Acids are very good, while tannins are smooth and finely-grained. More black cherry, currant, and cherry with spice notes linger on the long finish. Score: 91 pts
JOHANNESHOF CELLARS METHODE TRADITIONNELLE EMMI BRUT 2009 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (XD) - $41 NZD A blend of 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay that spent 7 years on the lees. This sparkling wine has a lovely, highly aromatic and complex nose featuring biscuity, leesy, toasty, fine lees, pastry and some citrus notes. mature fine bubbles and acids. Fresh acids, juicy, lovely citrusy still quite fresh. The medium-bodied palate is citrusy with fine, mature bubbles and still quite fresh acidity. Fine pastry, biscuity, and brioche flavours that continue through to the long, slightly minerally finish. Fine bubbly! Score: 93 pts
JOHANNESHOF CELLARS PINOT GRIS 2019 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (D) - $25 NZD Tank sample. Restrained stone fruit, white peach, and some earthy characters on the nose. The medium-full bodied palate is fat, fleshy, and concentrated with lovely off-dry flavours of honeysuckle, quince, and peach flavours supported by balanced acidity. Some herbal, stone fruit, and white peach flavours linger on the finish, with very good length. Score: 90 pts
JOHANNESHOF CELLARS RIESLING 2019 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (D) - $24 NZD Fresh, honeysuckle, floral, lemon-lime and stony mineral aromas in a dry profile emanate from the glass. It is medium+ bodied on the palate with a nice, fleshy texture and off-dry flavours of white peach, lime zest, mineral, and herbs. It has juicy acids while the long, complex finish has herbally, white peach, quince, pear and floral characters. Score: 90 pts
After enjoying the excellent 2018 Greywacke Riesling back in October 2020, white wine review is the latest vintage of this lovely medium-dry (i.e. slightly sweet) Riesling from New Zealand which arrived at the LCBO as a VINTAGES Online Exclusive as part of the recent LCBO VINTAGES Release.
Greywacke (pronounced Greywacky) is the Marlborough label of the Judd family and named after New Zealand's most abundant bedrock. After many successful years working for another winery, the renowned and one of Marlborough's pioneer winemakers, Kevin Judd fulfilled a lifelong dream to create his own label of wines and established Greywacke in 2009. Situated in the heart of Marlborough's Omaka Valley, Greywacke is a family affair with a "keep it simple and hands-on" approach.
The fruit for Greywacke wines are sourced from prime viticultural sites from vineyards that are sustainably managed, and an increasing amount from organically farmed vineyards. Crop levels are restricted to enhance flavour concentration and a long, cool growing season produces fruit with incredible varietal intensity and bright, natural acidity. Greywacke is accredited with Appellation Marlborough Wine (AMW), ensuring provenance, authenticity and integrity. In the winery, a minimal-interventionist approach to winemaking is adopted, along with extensive use of wild (indigenous) yeast fermentations to create wines with personality and individuality. Although the Greywacke range of wines is primarily based on just two varieties - Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, limited edition releases of other wines such as this Riesling complement the lineup.
The grapes for this Riesling are from the 24-year-old certified organic Ashmore Vineyard in Fairhall, adjacent to the mouth of the Brancott Valley on gravelly clay-loam soils. The fruit was hand-picked at moderate ripeness levels to capture the exuberance and natural acidity of the variety. After whole-bunch pressing and very low maceration press cycle, half of the juice was fermented in stainless steel, while the other half underwent spontaneous indigenous yeast fermentation in old French oak barriques. Towards the end of fermentation, all of the wine was transferred into stainless steel and fermentation was stopped. The blended wine was aged in old barrels on its yeast lees for five months, then bottled in November 2020.
While the 2020 vintage will be remembered as the year of abnormal working conditions due to the pandemic, the growing season was slightly warmer than average and delivered superb fruit quality. Let's see how this excellent Marlborough Riesling is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
GREYWACKE RIESLING 2020 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#14556) (M) - $29.95 Screw cap. Intense, gorgeously scented bouquet of flowers, lime citrus, white peach, and petrol with whiffs of mineral rise out of the glass. On the impressively concentrated palate it has a very good textured mouthfeel and an off-dry flavour profile of lime citrus, ripe apple, leesy mineral, white flowers, and subtle spicy tones. Impeccably balanced with fresh and juicy acids, while leesy mineral and lime notes taper to a dry, textured finish, with excellent length. Wow! Highly recommended buy to enjoy towards the end of the decade. Score: 93 pts
Small quantities of other Greywacke wines are available at the LCBO, while the rest of the portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.
To wrap up the last batch of LCBO General List wines I received a few months ago, wine reviews are six wines that are readily available at LCBO outlets across Ontario, with a couple that are on promotion right now.
While all of these wines in this post are represented by Dionysus Wines & Spirits (and Churchill Cellars), the Mare di Sirena and Popcorn Chardonnay are actually brands owned by Alex Patinios and made under his business Garage Wine Company. Alex is also President of the Ontario wine agencies Dionysus and Churchill Cellars.
The story of Popcorn Chardonnay (not to be confused with the California wine of the same name) began in early 2020 when some Ontario wineries realized that they had a surplus of Chardonnay in tank and barrel due to the pandemic. The ever opportunistic and entrepreneurial Alex purchased the wine and sent it to Niagara's Strewn Winery. He worked with Strewn's winemaker Marc Bradshaw to have it blended and finished to the desired taste profile, and bottled as Popcorn Chardonnay. The catchy label features a silhouette of a bag of popcorn and a single popped kernel in the center, just above the name.
It's possible that the 2019 Popcorn Chardonnay is sold out across the province as I have seen the 2020 vintage on LCBO shelves now. However, you should know that with the 2020 vintage, Alex purchased fruit specifically for this wine and Marc applied small-batch winemaking techniques such as sur lie, blending, and barrel fermentation with three different types of barrels. There may be vintage variation, which is not necessarily a bad thing, but it is sure to be delicious.
Let's see how these wines are tasting tonight...
Tasting Notes:
POPCORN CHARDONNAY 2019 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#20264) (D) - $15.95 Screw cap. This Chardonnay was barrel fermented and aged in French and American oak barrels and has a subtle nose offering suggestions of ripe orchard fruit, peach, lemon curd, poached apple, tropical fruit, and honeyed aromas. There's good weight on the creamy, medium-bodied palate with ripe apple, buttery, lemon curd, sweet vanillin, and a touch of honey adding a kiss of sweetness to the flavour profile. Acids are juicy and well-balanced, while some smoky, leesy, and saline notes add interest to the lingering dry finish, with very good length. Highly delicious! Score: 88 pts
MARE DI SIRENA PINOT GRIGIO 2020 - IGT Italy (#20054) (XD) - $8.90 Screw cap. Translates to Sea of the Mermaid, the myth is that the mermaids in the seas surrounding Italy blow cool air over vineyards during summer to enhance ripening of the grapes, and warm air during the winter to protect the vines from frost. The majority of this Pinot Grigio is from Central Italy at 350-600 metres above sea level and has aromas of fresh lemon citrus, pear, and white peach with herbal hints. On the mid-weighted palate it has lemon citrus, mandarin orange, and peach flavours supported by zesty, well-balanced acidity. Clean, dry and flavourful on the zesty, citrusy finish, with some leesy minerals adding interest. Very good length on the finish. Will surely please! Score: 87 pts
STREWN NURTURE WHITE 2019 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#20261) (D) - $14.95 Screw cap. This off-dry blend of 32% Riesling, 28% Gewurztraminer, 20% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Pinot Gris, 9% Chardonnay Musque, and 1% Muscat has a fragrant nose offering attractive honeyed aromas of orange citrus, lemon, honeysuckle, and wild flower. The palate is just off-dry (i.e. lightly sweet) with delicious white flower, beeswax, orange citrus, lychee, and ripe apple flavours in a nicely textured profile. With balanced acidity, it leads to a floral, leesy, juicy, and dry-ish finish, with good length. Delicious! Score: 87 pts
BREAD & BUTTER CHARDONNAY 2019 - California, USA (#19261) (D) - $18.95 $16.95 until Jan. 2 Crafted by award-winning veteran winemaker Linda Trotta in an honest, good, delicious, and uncomplicated style. Classic, traditional California Chardonnay with sweet vanillin oak, caramel, butter, ripe apple and pear aromas waft out of the glass. It's medium-full bodied and creamy on the sweetish palate with more vanillin oak, caramel, wood spice, and butter flavours with underlying apple and pear fruit notes. Slightly spicy on the mid-palate, with juicy acidity, while the vanilla, caramel, and butter notes linger on the finish, with very good length. Fans of Cali Chardonnay will like this. Score: 87 pts
STEL+MAR CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019 - Lodi, California, USA (#20808) (D) - $17.95 Two friends (who grew up in Canada) and their families came together to create STEL+MAR. They make unpretentious and approachable wines that let the terroir speak for itself. This Cabernet Sauvignon has a medium+ intensity nose that offers ripe dark berry fruit, black currant, sweet cinnamon spice, and cassis aromas with savoury earthy undertones. On the medium-full bodied palate it is slightly sweet with ripe cassis, blueberry, blackberry, vanilla, cocoa, and oak spice flavours. Crafted in a very approachable style, it has well-balanced acidity and supple, structured tannins. Intriguing cassis and minty notes linger on the long, dry finish. Delicious! Score: 88+ pts
SUNNY WITH A CHANCE OF FLOWERS PINOT NOIR 2019 - Monterey, California, USA (#18946) (XD) - $17.95 $8.30 Sunny Wines are sustainably crafted for healthy lifestyle wine lovers with zero sugar, low calories, and low alcohol (9% abv). Screw cap. Earthy beetroot aromas with a hint of toasted oak mingle with ripe black cherry, black raspberry, and strawberry aromas. There's also a hint of tea leaf. The light-to-mid-weighted palate is dry with light, supple tannins that are slightly textured. Flavours of beetroot, earth, and tea leaf with fruity notes of black cherry and raspberry on the palate, turning quite bitter on the finish, with good length. Score: 86 pts
Friday, December 13, 2024
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