Planeta La Segreta Grillo 2023 and Controdanza 2020 (Sicily) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of lovely, sustainably crafted wines from Sicily that arrived in LCBO VINTAGES last month, with the Grillo making its debut in mid-March, while the red wine arrived last weekend. Both are readily available for purchase today!

The lovely wines are produced by Planeta, one of Sicily's most respected and renowned wine producers. The Planeta family have long and deep roots on the volcanic island of Sicily that spans 17 generations and over 500 years. They have been involved in the agricultural evolution of these complex lands with an approach that leans towards openness and innovation.

Planeta's more recent history begins in the early 1900s, when Grandfather Vito transformed the small, family winery in Menfi, in western Sicily, into a large co-operative in a short period of time, paving the way for new solutions and prospects. In the mid-1980s, the family planted their first vines around Ulmo, a 16th-century farmhouse which the family had always owned near the village of Sambuca di Sicilia. They wanted to provide this beautiful place full of memories with a new future and built their first winery at the site in 1995, on the banks of Lake Arancio and its nearby woods. Success at the Ulmo winery led to further expansion on the island, with the idea of producing each wine in its own territory.

Today, Planeta has wine estates across Sicily, in the territories of Vittoria, Noto, Etna, and Capo Milazzo. Planeta is still family-owned and operated, with primarily two generations of the family working on the estate, including brothers and sisters, children, nieces and nephews. Together, they have a vision of unity, love for the land, and a desire to protect it by using sustainable and environmentally-friendly approaches to viticulture and winemaking. As a pioneer in modern Sicilian winemaking, Planeta is focused on crafting high-quality wines using both indigenous and international varieties that reflect the unique terroirs of each territory in Sicily, while embracing innovation and modernity, and respecting tradition. With a passionate focus on the environment, all of Planeta's cultivated areas (vineyards, olive groves, almond orchards, and cereals) are certified organic.

This Grillo is from Planeta's Menfi territory range of wines. Menfi is located on the southern coast of western Sicily. The Menfi area, from the sea to the hills, and up to an altitude of 400 metres, is home to Planeta's largest extension of vineyards. Along with three estates in Menfi - Ulmo, Dispensa, and Monte Cirami - they have 250 hectares of vines where they make precise choices that are specific to both native and international varieties, as well as individual terroirs. The historic Dispensa estate has been in existence since 1755 and is hidden in the heart of the hills among the vineyards. The Dispensa estate is the heart of Planeta's activities, with production, administrative, and logistical headquarters developed around the estate. They also have two wineries on the property, with the small winery holding the family's collection of favourite wines from around the world, as well as certain vintages of Planeta wines. Furthermore, the family's library houses hundreds of Italian and foreign volumes dedicated to the history of vines and wines from the 18th century to the present day.

Bearing the name 'La Segreta', this Grillo is named after the woods that surround their Ulmo vineyards. It is cultivated with passion in accordance with sustainable and organic agricultural criteria. First crafted in the 2016 vintage, the first label was graphically related to a detail of an ancient 18th-century map of the area to underline the family's deep roots and presence on the site since ancient times. Today, the label takes inspiration from nature and depicts Sicilian flora with great precision and poetry.

The Controdanza, which translates to 'country dance', is named after the rural dance where dancers move elegantly in a pattern of opposition and agreement. This is what Planeta thought of when they combined Nero d’Avola with a small amount of Merlot, with this particular vintage composed of 85% Nero d’Avola and 15% Merlot that was cultivated in the white lands of Noto, as an unconventional blend based on contrast rather than similarity. Created as the second wine of their top-end Santa Cecilia, the grapes for this wine come from the lowest areas of the valleys where the fruit wins over the typical balsamicity of Nero d’Avola on Noto's lime soils.

With both of these wines coming from excellent vintages, let's see how these two wines from Sicily are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

PLANETA LA SEGRETA GRILLO 2023 - Sustainable, DOC Sicilia, Italy (#39442) (XD) - $19.95
100% Grillo organically grown on moderately deep, scarce -to-almost-non-existent structure, moderately limey, and average fertility soil at the Dispensa vineyard in Menfi. Raised entirely in stainless steel and enclosed by Stelvin screw cap. The lovely, medium-high intensity nose has depth with an attractive mix of ripe lemon citrus, flinty mineral, yellow flowers, and herbal aromas surrounding a core of apple and pear notes. On the fleshy, medium-full bodied palate it is dry and spicy with lovely aroma replays of lemon citrus, apple, pear, herbs, and mineral notes on the flavour profile. It has crisp and juicy acidity, along with a fine, mineral texture on the mid-palate. Spice and minerals are nuanced with lemon citrus on the long, succulent, and juicy finish. Arrived in LCBO VINTAGES on March 15th and is a highly recommended buy. Score: 90+ pts

PLANETA CONTRODANZA 2020 - Sustainable, DOC Sicilia Noto, Italy (#477190) (XD) - $24.95
This blend of 85% Nero d'Avola and 15% Merlot was grown at their Buonivini vineyard in Noto on soils composed of lime marl, with abundant structure of small size, along with a finely textured soil featuring small amounts of light-coloured chalk. Matured for 12 months in fourth- and fifth-use Allier oak barrels. The lifted, medium-high intensity nose offers a lovely, slightly perfumed bouquet of dried roses, floral, fresh & dried cherry, sweet spice, and leather aromas with undertones of savoury earth and minerals. The medium-full bodied palate is dry and chewy with a fairly firm structure and delicious balsamic flavours joining the black cherry, floral, leather, and spices. Some dried berry and floral characters add further interest. Lemony acids are fresh and juicy, while the refined, slightly drying tannins have good grip and structure. Minerally and gently spicy on the long, savoury finish. Arrived in the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on March 29th and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

A selection of fine wines by Planeta (some in limited quantities) are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.