Mulderbosch Faithful Hound 2023 (South Africa) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely, vegan-friendly, and predominantly Cabernet Franc and Merlot blend from South Africa that arrived at the LCBO in last weekend's April 11th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Mulderbosch Vineyards, a winery that was founded in 1989 by Larry Jacobs, a former physician, and winemaker Mike Dobrovic. When Larry and Mike discovered this property, it was a run-down old fruit farm that had been lying fallow for close to a century, with no history of viticulture. With visionary optimism, they saw the potential to create good wine on this humble property, cleared out the years of neglect, and turned the site into one of Stellenbosch's most exciting winegrowing corners.

Mulderbosch Vineyards is situated in Stellenbosch Kloof, South Africa's finest winegrowng area, about 14 km north of False Bay. This particular area has sloped vineyards that offer optimal exposure to the sun, varied soil types ranging from Malmesbury shale and Table Mountain sandstone to sandy duplex and decomposed granite. Furthermore, the region feels the effects of the cooling ocean breezes, which naturally brings down the temperatures and allows for slow ripening, good acidity, and richer, more expressive aromas and flavours in their grapes. Mulderbosch created their first wines from the 1992 vintage and accolades and international acclaim followed immediately thereafter.

While Larry and Mike are no longer involved with Mulderbosch, as the winery has changed ownership several times over the years, the leadership teams over the years have done their best to maintain the founders' track record and build on the reputation that was established. The pursuits and dreams at Mulderbosch are based on the same principles of excellence, creativity, and innovation. These days, many of their innovations come from paying very close attention to what happens below and above ground - from the health of the soils to the well-being, harmony, resilience, and longevity of their vineyards. They practice mindful viticulture and have created an environment to protect and promote biodiversity. At the winery, they gently handle the firm, optimally ripened and flavourful fruit, and stand back and let the wines speak for themselves. Mulderbosch is also committed to eco- and socially-responsible farming and production, and is accredited, along with their supplier growers, with both Integrated Production of Wine (IPW) and Wine and Agricultural Ethical Trading Association (WIETA) of South Africa.

As a Bordeaux blend and one of Mulderbosch's first wines since its inception more than 30 years ago, the Faithful Hound's composition changes each vintage. For the 2023 vintage, this red wine is composed of 44% Cabernet Franc, 26% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Petit Verdot, and 4% Malbec. Each parcel of grapes is typically vinified separately, with fermentation taking place primarily in stainless steel using indigenous yeasts. The wines were aged for 16 months in neutral French oak barrels, 3rd fill and older, prior to assembling the final blend and then bottling.

The growing season in 2023 in South Africa was beset with various challenges. Winter was relatively mild and dry, which allowed for early budbreak and flowering. However, summer provided cool and wet conditions, which slowed ripening. Those that picked before the rainstorms arrived in Stellenbosch yielded powerful and ripe grapes that were full of flavour, while those that had to pick during the rain were forced to slowly harvest. As is often said, it is the harvest season that makes or breaks the vintage. While phenolic development was sufficient, this could be the reason why there is very little Cabernet Sauvignon in this cuvée in this vintage. Overall, it is considered to be a good year, with the wines exhibiting elegant, cool-climate characters. Let's see how this 2023 Bordeaux blend from Stellenbosch in South Africa is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

MULDERBOSCH FAITHFUL HOUND 2023 - Vegan, WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#922443) (XD) - $20.95
This blend of 44% Cabernet Franc, 26% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Petit Verdot, and 4% Malbec has a lifted, medium-high intensity nose that delivers fragrant ripe red berry fruit, bay leaf, and green herbal aromas, plus whiffs of tobacco, currant, cassis, cedary oak spice, and earth. The medium to medium-full bodied palate is dry and elegant with lovely ripe red berry fruit, bay leaf, cassis, currant, tobacco, grilled herb, cocoa, and oak spice flavours. It's supported by crisp and juicy acidity, while the ripe, elegant tannins offer a supple, textural grip. More bay leaf, grilled herbs, cassis, and cedary oak notes linger on the long, supple, and well-balanced finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 5 years. Score: 89 pts

Other fine wines by Mulderbosch Vineyards can be ordered through their Agent - Abcon International Wine Merchants.