Deux Roches Les Pommards Saint-Véran 2021 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

After enjoying the lovely 2021 Deux Roches Vieilles Vignes Pouilly-Fuissé a couple of months ago, for tonight's white wine review we go up a notch with this excellent, single vineyard Chardonnay from Burgundy that was a brand-new arrival at the LCBO last month as an Online & Flagship Exclusive in the November 16 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection - with plenty still available for purchase today!

Like the Pouilly-Fuissé, this white wine is produced by Deux Roches, the Burgundy estate winery that is run by two long-time friends, Christian Collovray and Jean-Luc Terrier, who are behind Collovray et Terrier. The Domaine of Deux Roches is situated in the heart of the picturesque Mâconnais landscape, in the village of Davayé to the north of the Saint-Véran AOC, and specializes in the production of Chardonnay wines in the Mâconnais style. Deux Roches, which translates to "Two Rocks", gets its name from the two limestone rocks of Vergisson and Solutré that are situated in the area.

Deux Roches' story begins in 1928, when Joanny Collovray settled in the small village of Davayé to farm the land with various crops, including grapevines, and produce goat's cheese. Joanny was a simple tenant farmer and produced some wine on the property, while letting merchants take care of selling the wine. In 1940, Collovray's wines were mentioned in the press for their quality. In 1956, Henri Collovray, son of Joanny, took over the property and extended the family's vineyard holdings by purchasing a few parcels in the Mâcon-Davayé appellation. At the young age of 16, Christian Collovray, son of Henri, began working the vines and, eventually, gave up animal farming to solely focus on winegrowing.

The Terrier family had no history of cultivating vines, but Léon Terrier was the village blacksmith and worked alongside local winegrowers. His son, Jean-Luc Terrier, chose to go to an agricultural college and specialize in viticulture, and crossed paths with his childhood friend and neighbour, Christian Collovray. Together, Christian and Jean-Luc shared a love for vines and wines, a bond which grew even closer when they married sisters Brigitte and Florence, who were from a family of winegrowers.

Today, with the next generation joining the family business, Deux Roches is recognized for producing great wines that respect terroir and tradition, at relatively accessible prices. With agricultural roots, they know that everything begins in the vineyard as they work the soil and have respect for the vegetation. Perfection is the objective, while also recognizing that adapting to the year's weather conditions is also necessary. Sustainability is also a core value of Collovray et Terrier as they minimize inputs and use natural processes to stimulate the plants’ own natural defences to control pests and disease. The families also protect and encourage biodiversity, with one of these projects revolving around having beehives on the property in Davayé. Other initiatives in reducing their environmental impact include minimizing the use of water in the cellar and controlling waste disposal, and limiting the use of energy from non-renewable sources.

This white wine is from Deux Roches' top-tier Parcel Selections range - single vineyard wines that are the expression of a specific place with a unique character. Since the beginning, Collovray & Terrier have sought to produce wines that express the individual characteristics of each of their parcels, with their extraordinary organoleptic potential. For the Parcel Selections range, they employ all the techniques and skills available to them, such as hand harvesting and lengthy barrel ageing, to allow the terroir to speak of the superb complexity conferred by the wines' origins.

Crafted with 100% Chardonnay, the grapes for this wine were grown on a 0.81 hectare plot located in the town of Davayé, on the hillside of the Roche de Solutré. The vines are north-facing, on a 30% slope, and planted between 1975 and 1983 on marly soil that is moderately deep, and is made up of chalk on the surface. The grapes were manually harvested and gently loaded into the pneumatic presses by gravity, followed by long pressing cycles in order to preserve the aromatic finesse. The must was cold-stabilized, then decanted and placed into barrels for fermentation. The wine was aged for 19 months, of which 11 months were in barrels, followed by 8 months in vats.

In 2021, the growing season in Burgundy was challenging due to the season beginning with a hard winter frost, followed by pests and disease which wreaked havoc in the vineyards and reduced yields. Summer was cool-ish, while the wine quality was determined by hard work in the vineyard and at the winery. In challenging vintages, the best vignerons can still produce delicious and harmonious wines exhibiting freshness, energy, elegance, and finesse. Let's see how this 2021 single vineyard Chardonnay from Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DEUX ROCHES LES POMMARDS SAINT-VÉRAN 2021 - AP, Burgundy, France (#37919) (XD) - $50.95
This single vineyard Chardonnay has richly elegant, medium-high intensity, and developing aromas of stone and orchard fruits, nectarine, honeysuckle, apple, and pear, plus floral, vanilla, oak spice, and flinty mineral, and hints of mushroom add intrigue and great complexity. It is impressively concentrated on the dry, medium+ to medium-full bodied palate with rich and lovely honeyed, nutty, vanilla oak spice flavours surrounding a core of ripe orchard fruit, apple, pear, nectarine, and floral. It's nicely textured with very good structure and juicy, mouth-watering acidity. Still somewhat youthful on the structured and textured finish with tangy stone fruit and flinty mineral notes lingering on the finish, with excellent length. Should drink beautifully into the early 2030s and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other fine wines by Collovray et Terrier's Deux Roches label and can be found at the LCBO, or ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Deux Roches Vieilles Vignes Pouilly-Fuissé 2021 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Happy Thanksgiving! Tonight's white wine review is a lovely white wine that I first tasted just over a year ago and am delighted to see it arrive at the LCBO as part of the September 21st LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection as an Online & Flagship Exclusive and available at 17 stores in Ontario right now.

Deux Roches is the Burgundy winery of Collovray et Terrier. The Domaine is situated in the heart of the picturesque Mâconnais landscape, in the village of Davayé, and focuses mainly on white wines made with Chardonnay in the Mâconnais style.

The story of Deux Roches, which means "Two Rocks", begins in 1928 when Joanny Collovray settled in the small village of Davayé, a few kilometres west of Mâcon, in the south of Burgundy. He farmed the land, made goat cheese, and grew various crops, including vines. As a simple tenant farmer, he made some wine on the property and the merchants took care of selling it, and in 1940, Collovray was mentioned in the press for the quality of his work. In 1956, his son, Henri Collovray, took over the property and extended the family's vine holdings by purchasing a few parcels in the Mâcon-Davayé appellation. At the young age of 16, Henri's son, Christian, began working the vines and later gave up animal farming to focus solely on winegrowing.

The Terrier family had no history of cultivating vines. Léon Terrier was the village blacksmith and always worked alongside local winegrowers. Growing up in this environment, Léon's son, Jean-Luc Terrier, chose to go to an agricultural college and specialize in viticulture. Jean-Luc crossed paths along the way with Christian, his neighbour and childhood friend, and together they shared a love of the vines and wines.

Christian and Jean-Luc's bond grew even closer when they married two sisters, Brigitte and Florence, who were also from a family of winegrowers. The two couples had a dream to create an estate together to make wines from Christian and his father's vines, and in 1986 the dream became a reality. The vines were grouped around the two rocks of Vergisson and Solutré, which led to the name "Deux Roches". From the beginning, each member of the two families played a role, with Christian tending the vines, Jean-Luc responsible for the cellar and sales, and both Brigitte and Florence first worked the vines, then looked after bottling, and finally devoting themselves to administrative and commercial matters as the business grew.

In 2009, Julien Collovray, son of Christian and Brigitte, joined the family business following his studies in viticulture, oenology, law, and economics, and various experiences at other wine estates. In 2012, Caroline Collovray, Julien's wife, also joined the estate as an oenologist with experience in several estates. In 2019, Pierre-Alexis Terrier, son of Jean-Luc and Florence, returned to the Domaine after completing his studies abroad and working in the vines and the cellar at both Davayé and Antugnac in Languedoc.

The philosophy at Deux Roches is to craft wines that express the unique terroirs of the Mâconnais, while working the soil and respecting the vegetation. Their goal is to have perfection, which means mastering each step from the vineyard to bottle, and includes adapting to the year's weather conditions by evolving and experimenting with each parcel. Since 2017, Deux Roches has earned High Environmental Certification for their commitment to the environment, where they use natural processes and minimize inputs to anticipate disease and manage the vineyard, while also promoting and encouraging biodiversity. Collovray et Terrier also work to have the least possible environmental impact in the cellar, including minimizing the use of water and limiting energy use from non-renewable sources.

Domaine des Deux Roches has two lines of wines within their portfolio - the Timeless Collection and the single vineyard Parcel Selections. The Timeless Collection of wines are exemplary, accessible, and made for drinking and sharing with enjoyment for immediate pleasure. The Timeless Collection wines are blended from several vineyards and aged in stainless steel or oak. The aim of the Timeless Collection is to give true expression of the appellations, while also corresponding to their vision of the Mâconnais style - great classics that never cease to please!

This white wine is from Deux Roches' Timeless Collection. It is 100% Chardonnay from 60 to 100-year-old vines grown on the estate and from selected parcels grown by long-standing partner winegrowers who are friends and family. The vines are planted on mainly limestone clay hillsides near the Rocks of Solutré and Vergisson, and also at Chaintré and Fuissé. The selection of grapes from these sites allows Collovray et Terrier to produce a delicate, mineral wine, with bright and refined aromas, as well as a rich, solid structure. To vinify this wine, the grapes were harvested and gravity-fed into pneumatic presses. Pressing is long and slow to ensure that the juice is delicately extracted and to preserve aromatic finesse. The resulting must is cooled and decanted, followed by alcoholic fermentation in barrel, with 20% in 600 L demi-muids, and less than 10% is new wood, followed by ageing on its fine lees until spring. Inputs are restricted during the entire process, including the use of sulphur dioxide.

The 2021 vintage was a challenging one in Burgundy that began with a hard winter frost, along with pests and disease that wreaked havoc in the vineyards and reduced yields. It was a cool-ish summer, with wine quality determined by hard work in the vineyard and winery. Let's see how this 2021 Chardonnay from Pouilly-Fuissé in Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DEUX ROCHES VIEILLES VIGNES POUILLY-FUISSÉ 2021 - AP, Burgundy, France (#488825) (XD) - $49.95
100% Chardonnay. The medium+ to medium-high intensity nose takes a while to reveal the maturing, earthy, stony mineral aromas mingling with baked apple, lemon peel, and whiffs of mushroom and nut. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it is deliciously flavoured, structured, and complex with lovely orchard fruit, apple, pear, lemon citrus, white peach and spice flavours backed by nutty notes and a stony mineral core. It has zesty, well-structured acidity, while stony-leesy mineral, orchard fruit, citrus, and mushroom notes with touches of spice lingering on the long, crisp, and very juicy finish. An intriguing wine to enjoy on its own or with poultry and seafood over the next 3-4 years. Recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

One other wine from Collovray et Terrier's Deux Roches label can be found at the LCBO, while the entire portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Bichot Saint-Romain Pinot Noir 2018 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Pinot Noir from Burgundy that was a new arrival at the LCBO in December. It was included as part of the theme of "Fine Wines for Festive Entertaining" in the December 2nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and would be a fine match for upcoming family feasts, with the added bonus that it's on clearance right now, with plenty of bottles still available for purchase.

It is produced by the prestigious and historic Maison Albert Bichot. The first traces of the family name date back to 1214, while in 1350 they settled in Burgundy, France. The Bichot family's coat of arms - a doe (biche) - was established in the 14th century and has not changed since. In 1831, Bernard Bichot founded a wine trading business in his name in Monthélie, while his son, Hippolyte, succeeded him and bought the first vines in Volnay. Hippolyte's son, Albert Bichot, the first to bear the name, gave the family business new momentum in the late 19th century and settled in the centre of Beaune in 1912.

Born in 1900, the second Albert Bichot was a pioneer of international commerce and travelled the globe to introduce the family's wines, which were already recognized as being among the best. During the second half of the 20th century, Albert's four sons - Albert, Bernard, Bénigne, and Jean-Marc - inherited the family business and know-how, and a new era of expansion with the construction of a large cellar, bottling facility, and winery.

In the early 1990s, Albéric Bichot, the son of the third Albert, joined the family company and took over its management in 1996. Though he fully respects long-held family traditions, he is completely focused on the future. He compares himself to the conductor of an orchestra and is proud to bring people and their talents together over a common project. Albéric has numerous challenges, such as converting to organic viticulture in the Côte-d'Or vineyards, ongoing adaptation to new markets, and increasing the prestige and exposure of Burgundy wines, but he is convinced that the quality of the wine is dependent on the quality of the grapes. Thus, he is focused on developing control of grape growing, a task that began in the 1980s. Albéric also secured equipment, expanded vinification capacity, and the ageing cellars, while the company's vineyards now total 6 estates that are spread out across Burgundy from the north to the south.

Today, the philosophy at Albert Bichot is based on protecting their children's planet, and respect for the terroir and nature. They practice sustainable viticulture based on observation, prevention, and being attentive to the complex balances found in nature. The soil is maintained responsibly, while encouraging manual labour that boosts the plants’ natural defences. Bichot also follows up on their partners' grower plots with the same thoroughness and philosophy as their own. At the winery, they apply a minimal interventionist approach during the vinification process so that the wines reveal the terroir and characteristics of the village where they hail from. The wine is carefully transferred from the vinification vats or barrels to the cellars by means of gravity. It is during the key period, while in the cellar, that time and expertise come together, and the wines truly acquire their body, reveal their personality, and all of their potential.

Crafted with 100% Pinot Noir, this red wine was grown in the village appellation of Saint-Romain, in the central part of Côte de Beaune, Burgundy. The appellation is situated in an isolated valley to the north of the Cote d'Or's main escarpment and stands at the foot of a high cliff, but at an elevation which enables it to look out over a wide stretch of the countryside. While bears and lions roamed here 100,000 years ago, the area has been a focus of human activity since neolithic times. The area was one of the first places in Bourgogne where the Celts and Gallo-Romans cultivated vines, and eventually led to Saint-Romain being instituted as an appellation in 1947. The terroir in Saint-Romain can be traced back to the earliest period of the Jurassic, with the soil consisting of a blend of limestone and marl, with patches of clay. The vines in Saint-Romain, which face south-southeast and north-northeast at altitudes between 280 and 400 metres, occupy a sloping site where they benefit from the excellent soil. The Pinot Noir vines used to craft this wine were grown in brown limestone soil. It was vinified in oak barrels (20% new) for 6 to 8 weeks, and remained in oak barrels (25% new) for 14 to 16 months to maturation.

The 2018 growing season was noted for being one of the hottest and driest growing seasons since the intense heatwave of 2003. Despite a wet winter and spring, perfect weather arrived in time for an early, but very successful flowering. Summer was hot and exceedingly dry, followed by ideal conditions arriving in August and September, which meant that producers could harvest their grapes at their own leisure. From an excellent vintage, let's see how this 2018 Pinot Noir from Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BICHOT SAINT-ROMAIN PINOT NOIR 2018 - AC, Burgundy, France (#33708) (XD) - $41.95 $34.75
From the Saint-Romain village appellation of Côte de Beaune, this Pinot Noir has a perfumed, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that offers a lovely bouquet of rose floral, sweet spices, ripe red & black cherry, earthy mineral, and mushroom aromas. It's light-to-mid weighted with good structure and fine, crisp, and tangy acidity that supports the ripe red & black cherry, gentle oak spice, and earthy mineral flavours with touches of beetroot. The light tannins have a subtle, chalky textured grip. Earthy mineral notes linger on the finish, with excellent length. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

Other fine wines by Maison Albert Bichot are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - Dionysus Wines & Spirits.

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Domaine Pansiot Côte de Nuits-Villages 2021 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent, sustainably crafted Pinot Noir from the Côte de Nuits-Villages appellation in Burgundy. Brand new to our market, it arrived in Ontario as an Online & Flagship Exclusive in the recent December 2nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, with good quantities still available for purchase.

It is produced by Domaine Pansiot, a small, family-owned estate that was created in 1981 by Eric Pansiot in the commune of Corgoloin, within the Côte de Nuits district in northern Burgundy, between Beaune and Nuits-Saint-Georges, near the border where the appellations of Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune separate. The area of Corgoloin has a strong tradition of wine, agriculture, and quarrying dating back to 1847.

Eric Pansiot established the estate with just 4 hectares of vines, but in 1991 he acquired a further 5 hectares of vines. In 2000, Eric created a SCEA agricultural company with his wife, Chantal Pansiot, and a gentleman from Welsh, Marc Thomson, and together they had 15 hectares of vines. Joining the family business in 2005 was Emilie Pansiot, daughter of Eric, and in the ensuing years the company continued to grow and expand by acquiring plots in the communes of Meursault, Gevrey Chambertin, Beaune, Chorey les Beaune, and Savigny les Beaune. Today, they have 21 hectares of vines across 19 different appellations, producing wines using grapes from all of these Burgundian appellations.

This red wine is crafted with 100% Pinot Noir that was grown in the appellation of Côte de Nuits-Villages, but is mainly composed of grapes grown in the commune of Corgoloin. The terroir in this area consists of hill-slopes that are gentle and regular, and carved into the hard limestones of the Upper Bathonian, during the Jurassic period of about 167 million years ago. In the upper part, the brown soil is only slightly limy, while lower down there is a thick layer of pebbly scree, and at the foot of the slope there is an extensive area of brown soil over accumulated alluvium.

The 2021 vintage was undoubtedly a challenging one with wild and unpredictable weather. The growing season began off the back of a balmy winter, which initiated early vine growth and budbreak. Because of the early start, the vines were susceptible to the elements, and in April the temperatures took a sharp dive and included a bout of vicious frost, followed by snow. Summer arrived with depressing, intermittent rains throughout. Spirits were finally raised in June, when temperatures rose and there were enough sunny days to dry out the vines, which also resulted in early flowering. However, heavy rain throughout July and August meant that growers had to be vigilant in keeping both rot and disease at bay. The weather finally eased up before veraison, allowing the fruit to dry out and ripen, with the reds unusually ripening before the whites. Overall, this was one of Burgundy's smallest ever vintages, which was also cooler-than-usual. The wines that were produced are very good to excellent, offering a classic and refined Burgundian style. Let's see how this 2021 Pinot Noir from Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE PANSIOT CÔTE DE NUITS-VILLAGES 2021 - Sustainable, AC, Burgundy, France (#34252) (XD) - $48.95
100% Pinot Noir assembled mainly from the Corgoloin commune. The fragrant, medium-high intensity nose offers cool aromas of red and black cherries, and red currant with whiffs of savoury mushroom, forest floor, cinnamon spice, and roses adding intrigue and complexity. It is intensely flavoured on the mid-weighted palate with lovely red currant, cran-sour cherry, raspberry, cinnamon spice, roses, and red plum flavours, plus some minerality and black tea notes. Juicy acids are fresh and lively, while the light tannins are fine-grained with good structure. Shows elegance throughout, with red currant, cherry, raspberry, and mineral notes lingering on the long, crisp finish. Gorgeous and a highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other fine wines by Domaine Pansiot can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia / Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Vincent de la Remondière Les Fourchaume Chablis 1er Cru 2020 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is an excellent Chardonnay from the Chablis Premier Cru vineyards of Fourchaume in Burgundy. This white wine is a new arrival in the recent December 2nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and is a Fine Wine for Festive Entertaining.

It is produced by Maison Vincent de la Remondière, a winery that epitomizes the elegance of the very fine wines of Bourgogne and Beaujolais. While they are deeply attached to the region, they defy local convention in the ways they produce and market their wines.

The philosophy at Vincent de la Remondière begins with their belief that great wines are not made from the fruit of mere happenstance - the wines are intrinsically shaped by the extremely favourable winegrowing conditions of the iconic region of Bourgogne. They seek out the very finest plots to produce their wines - superb terroirs and locations that are well-kept secrets in Bourgogne and Beaujolais - a playground, if you will, for creating fine wines. Vincent de la Remondière likes to see himself as an artist who creates wines like a composer creating a symphony, while leaving wines the room to find their perfect balance, naturally, and also teasing out the aromas. The goal is to bring out the real character of the terroir to the fore, while also adding a hint of daring and dash. The wines are hidden away in the cellars to develop tremendous complexity, while also noted for being generous, well-structured, delicate, sensual, and elegant. At Vincent de la Remondière, the spirit of being daring lies at the heart of everything they do on a day-to-day basis and is reflected in their wines, from vineyard to bottle, including the aesthetics of the bottle label designs.

Inspired by tradition, Vincent de la Remondière is part of the Bourgogne landscape. He is a great lover of the local area and never gets tired of looking out over his vines. Although he has great respect for tradition, he doesn't rule out having a new vision for the future by always thinking outside the box, wondering how things could be done differently (and better), and how things can be moved forward. The approach of Vincent de la Remondière is always about keeping an open mind, especially on new ways of doing things, keeping an eye out for the latest technological advances, and being on-trend.

Maison Vincent de la Remondière produces wines from several appellations in Burgundy (and Beaujolais), with the Premier Cru appellation wines focused around Pinot Noir, Bourgogne's ancestral grape, and Chardonnay, the star of Bourgogne. Premier Cru wines come from vineyards that are classified with an appellation of the Burgundy vineyard. It is noteworthy that only 10% of the wines from the region are classified as Premier Cru, making them somewhat rare, and Vincent de la Remondière crafts five Premier Cru wines, including this Fourchaume Chablis Premier Cru. All five Premier Cru wines at Remondière are made using traditional Bourgogne winemaking techniques and aged between 9 and 12 months in barrels, with about 20% to 30% new barrels. The wines are powerful, elegant, and focused, while also bringing out the sophisticated side of the terroir and bursting with personality.

This white wine is 100% Chardonnay crafted with fruit grown in Fourchaume, one of the best known, and largest, Premier Cru vineyards in Chablis. The main feature of wines from Chablis is the geology - the Kimmeridgian limestone soil that was laid down some 150 million years ago. This rock contains deposits of tiny fossilized oyster shells, which reminds us that Burgundy once lay beneath a warm ocean, flavours which are often transmitted through the vine and into the wine. Premier Cru vineyards lie on either side of the River Serein, which runs through vineyards from the south to north, but the most highly thought of Premier Cru vineyards are on the Right Bank of the river, where Fourchaume is also situated.

The 2020 growing season in Burgundy began with an unusually mild winter, followed by a balmy spring. Although there were some bouts of frost in Chablis, consistent warm weather prevailed into an unusually warm April. The summer was hot and dry, and became quite arid, with cleansing winds breezing through the vineyards, leading to an earlier harvest. Overall, the 2020 growing season in Burgundy delivered classic wines with perfect balance, nice acidity, and freshness. From this great vintage, let's see how this 2020 Chablis Premier Cru is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

VINCENT DE LA REMONDIÈRE LES FOURCHAUME CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2020 - AC, Burgundy, France (#32956) (XD) - $51.95
100% Chardonnay. The fragrant nose is rich, ripe, intense, and fresh, with lovely aromas of ripe lemon, citrus, apple, and pear layered over earthy-stony minerals, plus wafts of tangy citrus. It has good weight on the dry, medium+ bodied, elegantly structured palate with delicious, lightly honeyed and ripe flavours of lemon citrus, apple, and pear, with touches of hazelnut, mineral, and spice adding interest and complexity. It has a nicely textured mouthfeel on the mid-palate, plus very good, bracing acidity. Classic oyster shell mineral notes linger on the long, saliva-inducing finish, with excellent length. Enjoyable now, but will reward ageing, and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other lovely wines by Vincent de la Remondière can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia / Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Domaine Pinson Frères Mont-de-Milieu Chablis 1er Cru 2021 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is an excellent Chablis Premier Cru that arrived at the LCBO as part of the recent October 7 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection as an Online & Flagship Exclusive - with inventory available both online and in-store.

It is produced by the renowned Domaine Pinson, a winemaking family with a long and storied history in the heart of Chablis that began with the construction of the family cellars in the year 1580. Winemaking in the Pinson family was documented in Chablis up until the year 1640, after which it returned in 1880, when the family farmed vineyards and other crops. In 1940, Louise Pinson and his wife, France, owned approximately 4 hectares of vineyards in the region of Chablis, including the sub-appellations of Chablis 1er Cru Montmain, Mont de Milieu, and Grand Cru Les Clos. Louise and France were dedicated solely to viticulture and the production of Chablis wines, and their Domaine became very popular with visitors.

In 1983, Laurent Pinson, the grandson of Louis, arrived at the Domaine following his studies in Beaune, and worked on the vines with his grandfather, while learning about and respecting the traditions of Chablis. In 1987, Christophe Pinson, the brother of Laurent, started working at the Domaine. At this point, Louis retired from the family business, while Laurent and Christophe took over the Domaine with the desire to see it succeed and grow. The Pinson brothers undertook new plantings on the family land and grew the number of vines to 14 hectares.

Laurent and Christophe further developed the Domaine in 2004 by creating a new vat room, storage buildings, a new pressing room, as well as renovating the two large vaulted cellars intended for ageing wines. In 2008, the next generation of the Pinson family joined the Domaine when Charlène Pinson, daughter of Laurent, arrived at the farm following her studies in viticulture-oenology in Beaune. In 2019, the estate obtained its High Environmental Value (HVE) level 3 designation, reaffirming its commitment to sustainable production practices, including preservation of the environment and protecting biodiversity.

Today, the philosophy at Domain Pinson is that great wines begin with good grapes. Their passion and love for working the vines and the Chablisian soil allows the Pinson family to obtain the best fruit. Growing almost exclusively Chardonnay, all of the grapes are hand-harvested. They respect family traditions, while also applying modern techniques and respecting the environment. With roots in Chablis going back 450 years, the Pinson family remains united in their passion for excellence in wine.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Chardonnay that was grown in the Climat of Mont-de-Milieu The name "Mont-de-Milieu", which means "Mountain in the Middle", refers to peculiarity of this hillside that used to have a boundary running through its middle ("milleu") - one side which was in the jurisdiction of Chablis (which used to be located in the County of Champagne), and the other side which was in Fleys, in the Duchy of Bourgogne. Located on a hillside, Mont de Milieu is protected from the northern winds by the forest. The climate in Mont de Milieu is bathed in sunshine from morning to evening due to its south-southeast exposure to the sun, on an average slope. The soil in this Climat is often said to be homogeneous throughout its 44 hectares with clay and limestone of the Kimmeridgien type with small white limestone pebbles.

From vines averaging 20 years old, the grapes were manually harvested and underwent both alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in thermo-regulated vats and (10%) new barrels. The wine was aged on its fine lees in 228 Litre oak barrels for 9 months, with stirring, with the age of the barrels ranging from 2 to 6 years old, and was bottled 12 months after harvest.

From a challenging vintage where the best producers were able to make small quantities of great wines, let's see how this 2021 Mont-de-Milieu Chablis 1er Cru is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE PINSON FRÈRES MONT-DE-MILIEU CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2021 - AC, Burgundy, France (#700914) (XD) - $74.95
100% Chardonnay. Elegant, refined, medium+ to medium-high intensity aromatics offers ripe lemon citrus, stony minerality, and apple with accents of white peach. It's medium-bodied with a lovely chewy, well-structured, and textured mouthfeel with complex, ripe flavours of lemon citrus, apple, oyster-shell, and leesy mineral accented with orange and honey notes, plus touches of vanilla and butter. It's juicy with succulent acidity, and has a chalky textured mouthfeel on the mid-palate. Excellent length on the elegant finish which lingers for minutes, with stony, leesy mineral notes, plus touches of honey and apple. Immensely pleasurable now, but will be even better with a couple of years in the cellar and should drink well to the end of the decade. Highly recommended buy! Score: 94 pts

Other fine wines by Domaine Pinson can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia / Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Domaine Hamelin Beauroy Chablis 1er Cru 2021 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a beautiful Chablis Premier Cru from Burgundy that arrived at the LCBO as an Online & Flagship Exclusive in the recent September 9 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Domaine Hamelin, a small, family-owned winery with a long winemaking history in the village of Lignorelles, in Burgundy, just minutes from the town of Chablis. The history of the domaine begins when Gustave Hamelin planted 2 hectares of vines in 1840, alongside his mixed farm. In 1880, Pierre Hamelin grew the domaine to 3 hectares of vines and used his mules to help work them. At this time, the wines were held in 132 litre barrels and gave rise to the name "feuillette" or little cask, and were transported by river using barges or rafts.

In 1911, Georges Hamelin extended the property to 4 hectares and worked the vines by horse, while transporting the wines in feuillettes by railway. In 1936, Pierre Hamelin took over the domaine from his father and further developed the vineyard and winery by using some of the industry's latest technological advancements and continuing well into the next decade. In 1970, Marc Hamelin created his own vineyard, while also adding an area he inherited from his father.

Today, Domaine Hamelin is run by the sixth and seventh generations of the family - Thierry and his son, Charles. They run the estate together while perpetuating the wine traditions of Chablis and knowledge that has been handed down from one generation to the next. They harvest their grapes from nearly 37 hectares of vines which extend over the villages of Poinchy, Beines, and Lignorelle. The focus at Domaine Hamelin is mainly on Chablis wines, using a mix of old traditions and modern-day techniques to craft wines that express their terroir. The wines are crafted by the Hamelin family in a well-controlled environment with thermo-regulated processes, including bottling at the estate at the optimal moment.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Chardonnay, from vines that were planted between 1980 and 1982 on very strong, south-facing slopes (30 - 45% / 16.5 - 24 degrees), opposite the Lac de Beines, and extends from the bottom of the valley to the top of the slopes. The soils on this slope consist of Kimmeridgian sub-soils that give the wine its intensity and the typicity of the character of a fine Chablis Premier Cru. The 3.9 hectare vineyard is managed under the strict conditions of Chablis tradition, with the grapes virtually guaranteed to reach maturity every year. The grapes are mostly harvested mechanically, and after being selected, sorted, and fermented, the wine is aged for 12 to 18 months in stainless steel vats prior to bottling.

The 2021 growing season in Chablis was a difficult one with frost, mildew, oidium, and botrytis, resulting in reduced volumes. However, with great attention to the vineyard and technical expertise in the winery, this vintage did produce wines with a classic profile full of vibrant acidity and a particularly strong terroir influence that highlights minerality. Having enjoyed the excellent 2019 Domaine Hamelin Beauroy Chablis 1er Cru last year, let's see how this 2021 Chablis 1er Cru is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE HAMELIN BEAUROY CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2021 - AC, Burgundy, France (#391805) (XD) - $45.95
100% Chardonnay raised in stainless steel, this has a lovely, open, fragrant, and highly aromatic on the nose with earthy/stony minerals flecked with lemon citrus, apple, pear, and herbal aromas, plus touches of pleasant bitter notes adding further savoury characters. It is quite the mouthful on the medium-full bodied, well-structured palate with very impressive concentration. It's dry with stony mineral flavours layered over lemon citrus, apple, pear, and green herbal notes which are supported by crisp, juicy acidity. It has a nice texture on the gently spicy mid-palate, while oyster-shell notes join the stony mineral, apple, pear, and lemon replays on the exceptionally long, balanced finish. Enjoy to the end of the decade, maybe a bit longer. Highly recommended buy! Score: 94 pts

Other fine wines by Domaine Hamelin can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia and Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Cellier du Château de la Chaume Chablis 2022 and Beaujolais 2022 (France) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of delicious wines that are brand new to the LCBO, arriving earlier this summer as General List wines that are widely available at LCBO outlets across Ontario right now.

Both of these wines are produced by Cellier du Château de la Chaume, a very old Maison that is located in Burgundy, in the commune of Corgoloin, Côte de Nuits, and is surrounded by a 10 hectare park of trees. The castle belonged to the very influential Marey-Monge family from Beaune, while the Monge name was known because of Gaspard Monge (1746- 1818), a famous mathematician who created descriptive geometry. Some time later, the castle was sold to the former owner of Corgoloin's famous quarries. The high-quality marble from these quarries was distributed throughout the world to build monuments, squares, and roads.

Cellier du Château de la Chaume strives to work closely with winegrowers that share their values, which most importantly is the desire to create wines of excellence. The vines are trained while respecting viticultural tradition and methods in order to obtain high-quality and mature grapes. Partnership winegrowers are asked to favour working the soil and limit synthetics in order to favour environmental balance, while seeking Burgundy terroir and climate expressions.

The wines are vinified in the cellar of Château de la Chaume, which was created in 1993, and the winemaking facility was completely redesigned and modernized with a stainless steel wine storehouse. Each vintage is different, thus the wines are vinified according to the climate of the vintage, with length of maceration and extraction more or less pronounced, as well as ageing in tank and barrel, in order to highlight the terroir and qualities of the vintage, while trying to obtain wines with the best balance. The wines are carefully vinified to develop and amplify the original organoleptic qualities of the wines, resulting in wines that are rich, delicate, attractive, refined, complex, and smooth.

Cellier du Château de la Chaume has four ranges of wines across Burgundy (and Beaujolais) - Regional, Village, Premier Cru, and Grand Cru. The Beaujolais would fall under their Regional appellation range, while the Chablis is from their Village appellation range. The Village appellation wines are meant to be the first introduction to the complexity of Burgundy terroir, with limited yields that deliver nice concentration. The grapes are grown on clayed-chalky soils, hand harvested, and de-stemmed prior to fermentation in stainless steel or wood tanks, followed by ageing in mostly used barrels.

From a 2022 vintage that was very good in both Beaujolais and Burgundy, let's see how these two wines are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

CELLIER DU CHÂTEAU DE LA CHAUME CHABLIS 2022 - AC, Burgundy, France (#32568) (XD) - $35.95
From clayed-chalky soils, this Chardonnay has elegant, concentrated, and medium-high intensity aromas of ripe lemon citrus, apple, and pear with hints of stony minerality. It's light-to-medium bodied on the dry, ripe, and lightly honeyed palate with lemon citrus, apple, pear, and floral flavours, plus touches of oyster seashell mineral notes. Gently spicy on the mid-palate. It's all supported by crisp, bracing acidity. Juicy and lip-smacking, with seashell mineral notes lingering on the long finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

CELLIER DU CHÂTEAU DE LA CHAUME BEAUJOLAIS 2022 - AC, Beaujolais, France (#32624) (XD) - $18.95
100% Gamay. Fresh, medium-high intensity aromatics offer red and black cherry, wild berry, pomegranate, and raspberry fruit aromas that are accented with dried herbs and spice. It's medium-bodied on the dry and very ripe palate with fruit forward red and black cherry, raspberry, pomegranate, and currant flavours with hints of dried herbs. Juicy acids are well-balanced, while the light tannins offer a supple, lightly grippy texture. Fruity with a savoury, mineral edge on the finish, with very good length. Score: 88 pts

Other delicious wines by Cellier du Château de la Chaume can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret Fourchaume Chablis 1er Cru 2021 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

After enjoying the lovely 2020 Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret Petit Chablis earlier this year, for tonight's white wine review we take it up several notches with this excellent Chablis 1er Cru from the same producer. It arrived at the LCBO earlier this month as part of the July 8th LCBO VINTAGES Release New Collection and is available to buy now.

The story of Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret, a small, family-owned estate winery, begins in 1713 with Jean Vocoret, whose winemaking soul guided him to pass down his wisdom, his fruits, and the nobility of winemaking to his descendants, giving the current generation of the family the passion for craftsmanship in cultivating the vine and winemaking. The estate is located in the Chablis wine region of Burgundy, France, and is known for producing high-quality Chablis wines which are renowned for their purity, elegance, and mineral character. The estate has been passed down familial lines since its founding, and in the latter part of the 19th century, the Domain was renamed while in the hands of Yvon's great, great grandfather Victor Hyppolite Vocoret, who was born in 1863. At the time, they only had a few acres of vines and small barrels in the cellar.

Born in 1895, it was Yvon's grandparents, Henri and Louise Vocoret, who, despite the suffering during WWI, managed to make the land prosper with the help of his horses, his pride and joy, to produce excellent wine. As a winegrower, the richness of the profession compensated for the moral injury sustained from the horrible war, which affected him very deeply. Yvon's parents, Maurice and Huguette Vocoret, were the next owners of the Domain and together they carefully reflected upon the art of winemaking and innovated by investing in high-performing and efficient equipment for the cellar. They anticipated that with these improvements, the quality of their wines would gain recognition and respect. Since the time of Yvon's parents, the Domaine has maintained its reputation for producing high quality wines.

Today, the Domaine is in the hands of Yvon, son of Maurice and Huguette, and his son, Laurent, who is the 6th generation of the family. Also involved in the family business are the spouses, Christine, wife of Yvon, and Clémentine, wife of Laurent. Together, they have the same motivation as their ancestors and are grateful and respectful, as they continue to write the story of a humble, but determined, family of winegrowers. They use the same principles as generations that came before to respect the soil and grapes, and the wines that they produce. The wines of the Vocoret family are a reflection of the expertise and passion that has been handed down through the generations, while upholding the family motto of quality, dignity, and respect.

This Chablis 1er Cru is crafted with Chardonnay that was grown in Fourchaume, one of the best known, and largest, Premier Cru vineyards in Chablis. The Chardonnay vines average 45 years old and were grown on clayey-stony Kimmeridgian limestone soils on marl, with the limestone pebbles having a slightly whitish appearance. The vineyard has been farmed using organic amendments since 1974 and reasoned protection for the last 17 years to produce a noble product from protected lands, while also respecting the environment. The grapes were harvested using both manual and mechanical methods. It was vinified using the family's purest and simplest traditions for 5 generations, with both alcoholic and malolactic fermentations occurring naturally, as they wanted to respect the personality of the vintage. It was aged for 10 months in stainless steel tanks to retain freshness and character, with each plot allowed to express itself.

The challenging 2021 vintage can be broken down into three parts - cold at the beginning with frost, wet through the summer months, and variable during August and September. Yields were heavily reduced for whites, but the quality of what was picked was very good to excellent as it was a cooler-than-normal growing season. Let's see how this 2021 Chablis Premier Cru from Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE YVON & LAURENT VOCORET FOURCHAUME CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2021 - AC, Burgundy, France (#22776) (XD) - $52.95
100% Chardonnay from 45-year-old vines. Lovely, highly aromatic nose has flinty-earthy mineral aromas layered over lemon citrus and white floral, with impressive depth. It's medium+ weighted and dry with crisp, vibrant, and saliva-inducing acidity with lovely, ripe, and balanced aroma replays of lemon citrus, flinty mineral, and white floral flavours with a twist of honey and some spice notes. Gently tangy and tart on the mid-palate, while flinty-earthy mineral notes linger through to the exceptionally long, lightly chalky textured finish. Has the power to drink well to the end of the decade. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other fine wines by Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret can be purchased through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.

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Domaine Boussard Chablis 2020 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is this beautiful Chardonnay from Chablis that is brand new to the LCBO, arriving in stores across Ontario as part of last weekend's May 27 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Domaine Boussard, an independent winegrower and family estate that planted their first vineyards in AOP Bourgogne in 1992. The Domaine was founded in the heart of Burgundy by Olivier Boussard, a man who comes from a family that has been farming for 5 generations, and his wife Isabelle. Domaine Boussard is located in Nitry, about 17 km southeast of Chablis, between Auxerre and Avallon, in a rustic setting in which the cellar is installed in an old farmhouse. Olivier makes his own wines with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir at the estate using traditional methods.

Olivier's knowledge and passion for the terroir and profession as a winegrower enabled him to grow and expand his range of wines. Today, the husband and wife team, along with their daughter Margot, have 32 hectares of vineyards located in the municipalities of Beines and Venoy, on the edge of Chablis. Their philosophy can be summed up as: Quality, respect for the environment, and hospitality. They aim to find the right balance between plant and terroir, and as such, their vineyards are farmed under the principles of sustainable viticulture as they have obtained the "HVE3" Environmental Value Certification. Their approach consists of enhancing the soil and vine in its natural environment by using plant and mineral materials that take into account natural resources, protect the territory, reduce pollution, and contribute to the balance of the land.

Continuing the fine run of vintages in Chablis, the 2020 vintage can be described as a "classic" across the famed region. Although 2020 was a very early vintage, it was not a particularly hot one and avoided dramatic heat spikes. The growing season began with an unusually mild winter that transitioned into a balmy spring. There were some bouts of frost that stuck, but the consistent warm weather prevailed and led to an unnaturally warm April which prompted both an early budburst and flowering. A hot, dry summer eventually arrived, and although the conditions became somewhat arid, the cleansing winds breezed through the vineyards to help keep the vines free from disease. The fast-growing season led to an early harvest with white grapes being both aromatic and fresh. Let's see how this 2020 Chablis from Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE BOUSSARD CHABLIS 2020 - AP, Burgundy, France (#29709) (XD) - $39.95
100% Chardonnay. Fresh and fragrant, this has a lovely, highly aromatic, clean, and elegant nose of lemon citrus, white floral, and oyster shell minerality with touches of ripe orchard fruit, apple, herbs, and white peach adding complexity. On the medium to medium-full bodied palate it has clean, bracing acidity which lifts the ripe, lightly honeyed flavours of lemon citrus, white floral, mineral, and apple replays. It is finely textured with a gently chalky mouthfeel, while leesy notes join the lemon citrus, apple, floral, and mineral notes on the long, flavourful finish, with excellent length. Perfect for a hot, summer day, and will also pair nicely with seafood, this is a highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Other lovely wines by Domaine Boussard can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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April 29, 2023 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: Classic European Regions

Here are my top wine picks from the April 29, 2023 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection which is titled "Fine Wines from Classic European Regions". Also included in the printed magazine is a sneak preview of the next release which will be the return of the monthly "Online & Flagship Exclusives" only release, with no associated in-store release. All of the wines from the last release of April should be in stores across Ontario by Saturday.

We begin with the theme on wines from classic European wine regions that features nineteen wines, of which eight are included among my top wine picks. Can you guess the eight classic European wine regions that span three countries featured in the theme? They are Bordeaux, Burgundy, Loire Valley, Rhône Valley, Piedmont, Tuscany, Veneto, and Rioja. From France, the Rhône Valley wines are the Châteauneuf-du-Pape which is crafted with 58% Grenache, 22% Syrah, 18% Mourvèdre, and 2% other permitted varieties, while the Côtes du Rhône is mainly Grenache with Syrah and Mourvèdre in support. The white Burgundy from France is made with Chardonnay, while the white wine from Piedmont is made with the indigenous Cortese varietal. From Tuscany, the Chianti is a blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Colorino/Canaiolo, while the Cepparello Super Tuscan is 100% Sangiovese. From Veneto, the Amarone consists of 47% Corvina, 39% Corvinone, 6% Rondinella, and 8% other varieties. And lastly, the 2015 Rioja is a blend of Tempranillo and Graciano, while the 2018 Rioja which is also the Wine of the Month is crafted with 100% Tempranillo.

The only blend among my red wine recommendations from the main release is the Syrah from Chile that actually consists of 90% Syrah, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 3% Viognier. Otherwise, there is a nice variety of other red wines to check out, such as a pair of Cabernet Franc wines - one from Niagara and one from Argentina. There is also a Pinot Noir from Niagara, a Malbec from Argentina, and a Mencía from Bierzo in Spain.

Among my white wine picks, it was a somewhat surprisingly small release of white wines and all of my recommendations are mono-varietal wines. Dry white wines include a pair of Sauvignon Blanc wines - one from Chile and the other from New Zealand, as well as a Viognier from Australia, and the Riesling from Austria. If you like your wines a little sweet, the Riesling from Niagara is a perennial favourite!

Both rosé wine recommendations are dry in style and predominantly made with Grenache, with the Tavel composed of 50% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 15% Clairette, and 10% Cinsault, while the rose wine from California is Grenache-based and blended with Syrah and Carignan.

Enjoy my top wine recommendations from this release! Cheers!

Red Wine:

• CAVE SPRING ESTATE GROWN CABERNET FRANC 2020 - VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#523001) (XD) - $19.95
• XAVIER VIGNON CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2020 - AP, France (#297317) (XD) - $19.95  89 pts  wine review
• LA POSTA FAZZIO MALBEC 2020 - Sustainable, Tupungato, Mendoza, Argentina (#444687) (XD) - $19.95
• MARQUÉS DE CÁCERES EXCELLENS CUVÉE ESPECIAL COLECCIÓN PRIVADA CRIANZA 2018 - Vegan, DOCa Rioja, Spain (#10684) (XD) - $19.95
• MONTES ALPHA SYRAH 2020 - DO Valle de Colchagua, Chile (#612) (XD) - $20.95
• FABRE MONTMAYOU RESERVA CABERNET FRANC 2021 - Mendoza, Argentina (#492736) (XD) - $21.95

• GIACOMO MORI CHIANTI 2018 - Palazzone, DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#68858) (XD) - $23.95  91 pts  wine review
• PITTACUM VAL DE LA OSA MENCÍA 2017 - Old vines, enclave singular, DO Bierzo, Spain (#31200) (XD) - $28.95  91+ pts  wine review
• LE CLOS JORDANNE JORDAN VILLAGE PINOT NOIR 2020 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#33894) (XD) - $29.95
• BARÓN DE LEY GRAN RESERVA 2015 - Vegan, DOCa Rioja, Spain (#642496) (XD) - $34.95  92+ pts  wine review
  
• DOMAINE DES SÉNÉCHAUX CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2019 - AC, Rhône, France (#677922) (XD) - $63.95
• BRIGALDARA AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2017 - Sustainable, DOCG, Veneto, Italy (#300012) (XD) - $78.95
• ISOLE E OLENA CEPPARELLO 2019 - IGT Toscana, Italy (#12818) (XD) - $159.95

White Wine:

• YALUMBA ORGANIC VIOGNIER 2021 - Vegan, sustainable, South Australia (#288217) (XD) - $16.95
• LEYDA GARUMA SINGLE VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021 - Coastal vineyards, DO Valle de Leyda, Chile (#99309) (XD) - $17.95
• TAWSE SKETCHES OF NIAGARA RIESLING 2021 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#89029) (M) - $19.95
• FONTANAFREDDA GAVI DI GAVI 2021 - DOCG, Piedmont, Italy (#366948) (XD) - $23.95
• STADT KREMS STEINTERRASSEN RIESLING 2021 - Sustainable, DAC Kremstal, Austria (#30595) (XD) - $24.95
• FRAMINGHAM SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#606848) (XD) - $24.95
• NICOLAS POTEL BOURGOGNE HAUTES CÔTES DE BEAUNE BLANC 2020 - AC, Burgundy, France (#29712) (XD) - $34.95

Rosé Wine:

• ANGELS & COWBOYS ROSÉ 2022 - Sonoma County, California, USA (#493155) (XD) - $24.95
• CHÂTEAU D'AQUÉRIA TAVEL ROSÉ 2022 - AP, Rhône, France (#319368) (XD) - $24.95

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Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret Petit Chablis 2020 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely Chardonnay from Burgundy that newly landed at the LCBO as part of last weekend's LCBO VINTAGES Release on January 21.

It is produced by Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret, a small family-owned estate whose history inscribed in vine cultivation and winemaking dating back to 1713. It all began in the early 18th century with Jean Vocoret, whose winemaking soul no doubt guided him to pass down his wisdom, his fruits, his passion, and the nobility of winemaking to his descendants,

The Domaine's more recent history of winemaking in Chablis begins with Victor Hyppolite Vocoret, the great, great grandfather of Yvon Vocoret. Born in 1863, Victor had a few acres of vineyards and some leaflets in the cellar. Henri Vocoret, born in 1895, and alongside his wife Louise were the grandparents of Yvon and they managed to make the land prosper with the help of their horses, and were very proud to produce excellent wine.

The fourth generation of the family to own the estate were Yvon's parents, Maurice (1928-1997) and Huguette (1933), who carefully reflected upon the art of winemaking and invested in high performance equipment for the cellar. Maurice and Huguette knew how to anticipate and plan so that the quality of their wines would be recognized.

Today, the Domaine is led by Yvon, the 5th generation of the family, and his son, Yvon, the 6th generation, together with Huguette, as they uphold the family motto - quality, dignity, and respect - and continue to write the story of a humble, but determined family of winegrowers who craft wines that bring pleasure. Since 1974, the Vocoret family has been farming the vineyards organically to respect and protect their vines and soils, as well as the environment. They have also been using organic soil materials which forces the soil to do its own work in order to transform the organic materials to minerals, so that the vine can feed itself and grow fruit in a natural, sustainable way and guarantee a quality vintage, year after year. The wines of Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret represent the essence of their exceptional terroir.

This Petit Chablis is crafted with 100% Chardonnay that was sourced from various plots covering 4 hectares of land throughout the appellation of Petit Chablis. The vines average 30 years of age and were planted on Portlandian Barrois clay-limestone and limestone marl soils which also feature red pebbles and a reddish-brown colour. Each plot of grapes were harvested at maturity and either manually or mechanically. It underwent a light static settling to retain the fine lees so that the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations can take place naturally. And finally, each plot was aged for approximately 9 months in stainless steel vats to preserve its fresh characteristics and allow plot to express itself prior to creating the final blend.

The 2020 growing season was warm and dry, yielding grapes with exceptional freshness and purity. The white wines of Burgundy classically styled, balanced, and consistently of a very high quality. As the 2020 vintage is such a fine vintage across the board, let's see how this 2020 Petit Chablis is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE YVON & LAURENT VOCORET PETIT CHABLIS 2020 - AC, Burgundy, France (#26446) (XD) - $27.95
This lovely Chardonnay has an elegant, medium-high intensity nose offering a lovely mix of ripe lemon, citrus, mineral oil, nutty, lactic, green apple, and white peach aromas. It is impressively weighted and quite structured on the medium-full bodied palate with lactic, mineral, lemon citrus, and green apple flavours supported by juicy, well-balanced acidity. Lemon citrus, apple, and white peach taper to leesy mineral notes on the long, crisp finish. Enjoyable now, but will be even better in a year or two. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

There is a Chablis 1er Cru available at the LCBO, while other lovely wines from their portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.

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Closerie des Alisiers Trilogie de Terroirs Pouilly-Fuissé 2020 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is an excellent Chardonnay from Burgundy that is new to the LCBO, arriving in stores this weekend as part of the LCBO VINTAGES Release on December 17.

It is produced by Stéphane Brocard, son of renowned Chablis winemaker Jean-Marc Brocard. After it started getting a bit too crowded at his father's family business, Stéphane set out on his own in 2007 and moved to Marsannay, founding his Trading House and the Closerie des Alisiers property in Chablis. In addition to owning his own vines in Pommard and the village of Daix, Stéphane set up a boutique négociant business contracting small parcels of carefully selected grapes because he had an intimate knowledge of the region, as well as the drive to blaze his own trail. He works with the same winegrowers and plots year after year to offer authentic wines based on purity of fruit and freshness, while also having the greatest respect for the terroir and environment. He encourages his vignerons to use organic farming methods and champions minimal intervention at all stages of production. Between Closerie des Alisiers and the wines of their partner estates, Maison Stéphane Brocard covers all of the appellations and diversity of Burgundy.

Crafted with 100% Chardonnay, this particular wine is called Trilogy of Terroirs because the grapes come from the three same selected plots, year after year, in the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation of the Mâconnais subregion in Burgundy. Grown within the communes of Solutré and Vergisson, the 70-year-old vines are based on limestone soils with very hard fossil corals. The vineyards are situated on fairly steep slopes with exposure to the east and south-east, and between 200 to 300 metres above sea level. The vines are tended to in reasoned culture with the greatest respect for the soil and the environment.

The growing season in 2020 in Burgundy produced classic wines despite the hot and dry conditions, and the wines of the vintage can be characterized and fresh, vibrant, and classically styled. From an exceptional year, let's see how this 2020 white wine from Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CLOSERIE DES ALISIERS TRILOGIE DE TERROIRS POUILLY-FUISSÉ 2020 - AC, Burgundy, France (#26440) (XD) - $37.95
This 100% Chardonnay has a nose that seems a bit shy and tight, but with some coaxing offers ripe lemon citrus, mineral, apple, melon, and peach aromas with nutty notes emerging with time in the glass. It is beautifully structured on the medium to medium-full bodied on the nicely balanced palate with spicy apple, lemon citrus, melon flavours with a twist of honey. It has fresh and firm acidity, while mineral, nut, and mealy notes emerge on the long, juicy, and mouth-watering finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92+ pts

Other excellent wines by Maison Stéphane Brocard can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Jean-Marc Brocard Sainte Claire Chablis 2020 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely Chardonnay that is coming to the LCBO this weekend as part of the December 17 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Jean-Marc Brocard, a family domaine that was established in 1973 in the center of Chablis, in Burgundy. Since the beginning, Jean-Marc Brocard was committed to a healthier culture and respectful of the environment. As one of the first organic wine producers in Chablis and Burgundy, in 1997 they converted their first plot of 11 hectares to organic and biodynamic farming. Today, the domaine covers 144 hectares with more than 60 hectares certified organic farming and 40 hectares biodynamic.

In 1995, Jean-Marc's son, Julien, joined the family domaine to work alongside his father. Julien is also passionate about biodynamics and traditional methods. Their logo is an ammonite - a life force, the spiral is naturally present in nature and is a symbol and creation and fulfillment, it also characterizes the Broacrd family's commitment to continuous improvement.

The unique style of Brocard wines are focuses around three words - precision, strength, and freshness. Precision involves accurately conveying the terroir, the memory of the soil transmitted from vine to wine, and the pure typical characteristics of the Chablis soil with its marine sediments deposited during the Jurassic era. Strength is conveyed in the structure of a wine that is powerful and long on the palate, while also appreciating the complexity of a terroir. Freshness is the a natural acidity that is born of the land's minerality, giving this wine its signature tautness.

One of quite a few Chablis wines in the Jean-Marc Brocard portfolio, this particular wine is from their Sainte Claire Vineyard which boasts Kimmeridgian limestone soils. It is crafted with 100% Chardonnay from 60-year-old vines and fermented with indigenous yeast. This Chablis expresses with a great deal of finesse the typicity of its Kimmeridgian soils, along with the singularity of Jean-Marc Brocard's wines through its strength, precision, and freshness.

From an early, yet classic vintage with superb quality, let's see how this 2020 Chablis is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

JEAN-MARC BROCARD SAINTE CLAIRE CHABLIS 2020 - AC, Burgundy, France (#356634) (XD) - $28.95
This single vineyard 100% Chardonnay is from 60-year-old vines grown on Kimmeridgian limestone soils and fermented with indigenous yeast. Intense, flinty mineral aromas off the top with notes of lemon citrus, apple, and butter laying underneath with melon and nutty hints, and a touch of reduction. It's medium-full bodied, well-structured, and creamy on the dry palate with lightly honeyed flavours of lemon citrus, mineral, apple-pear, and melon with nutty and mealy hints adding further complexity and interest. Acids are crisp and mouth-wateringly juicy. Excellent length with mineral, nut, and mealy notes lingering on the crisp, juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

A Chablis 1er Cru from Jean-Marc Brocard also arrived at the LCBO in this release, while other wines from their portfolio can be found at the LCBO or ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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