Deux Roches Les Pommards Saint-Véran 2021 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

After enjoying the lovely 2021 Deux Roches Vieilles Vignes Pouilly-Fuissé a couple of months ago, for tonight's white wine review we go up a notch with this excellent, single vineyard Chardonnay from Burgundy that was a brand-new arrival at the LCBO last month as an Online & Flagship Exclusive in the November 16 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection - with plenty still available for purchase today!

Like the Pouilly-Fuissé, this white wine is produced by Deux Roches, the Burgundy estate winery that is run by two long-time friends, Christian Collovray and Jean-Luc Terrier, who are behind Collovray et Terrier. The Domaine of Deux Roches is situated in the heart of the picturesque Mâconnais landscape, in the village of Davayé to the north of the Saint-Véran AOC, and specializes in the production of Chardonnay wines in the Mâconnais style. Deux Roches, which translates to "Two Rocks", gets its name from the two limestone rocks of Vergisson and Solutré that are situated in the area.

Deux Roches' story begins in 1928, when Joanny Collovray settled in the small village of Davayé to farm the land with various crops, including grapevines, and produce goat's cheese. Joanny was a simple tenant farmer and produced some wine on the property, while letting merchants take care of selling the wine. In 1940, Collovray's wines were mentioned in the press for their quality. In 1956, Henri Collovray, son of Joanny, took over the property and extended the family's vineyard holdings by purchasing a few parcels in the Mâcon-Davayé appellation. At the young age of 16, Christian Collovray, son of Henri, began working the vines and, eventually, gave up animal farming to solely focus on winegrowing.

The Terrier family had no history of cultivating vines, but Léon Terrier was the village blacksmith and worked alongside local winegrowers. His son, Jean-Luc Terrier, chose to go to an agricultural college and specialize in viticulture, and crossed paths with his childhood friend and neighbour, Christian Collovray. Together, Christian and Jean-Luc shared a love for vines and wines, a bond which grew even closer when they married sisters Brigitte and Florence, who were from a family of winegrowers.

Today, with the next generation joining the family business, Deux Roches is recognized for producing great wines that respect terroir and tradition, at relatively accessible prices. With agricultural roots, they know that everything begins in the vineyard as they work the soil and have respect for the vegetation. Perfection is the objective, while also recognizing that adapting to the year's weather conditions is also necessary. Sustainability is also a core value of Collovray et Terrier as they minimize inputs and use natural processes to stimulate the plants’ own natural defences to control pests and disease. The families also protect and encourage biodiversity, with one of these projects revolving around having beehives on the property in Davayé. Other initiatives in reducing their environmental impact include minimizing the use of water in the cellar and controlling waste disposal, and limiting the use of energy from non-renewable sources.

This white wine is from Deux Roches' top-tier Parcel Selections range - single vineyard wines that are the expression of a specific place with a unique character. Since the beginning, Collovray & Terrier have sought to produce wines that express the individual characteristics of each of their parcels, with their extraordinary organoleptic potential. For the Parcel Selections range, they employ all the techniques and skills available to them, such as hand harvesting and lengthy barrel ageing, to allow the terroir to speak of the superb complexity conferred by the wines' origins.

Crafted with 100% Chardonnay, the grapes for this wine were grown on a 0.81 hectare plot located in the town of Davayé, on the hillside of the Roche de Solutré. The vines are north-facing, on a 30% slope, and planted between 1975 and 1983 on marly soil that is moderately deep, and is made up of chalk on the surface. The grapes were manually harvested and gently loaded into the pneumatic presses by gravity, followed by long pressing cycles in order to preserve the aromatic finesse. The must was cold-stabilized, then decanted and placed into barrels for fermentation. The wine was aged for 19 months, of which 11 months were in barrels, followed by 8 months in vats.

In 2021, the growing season in Burgundy was challenging due to the season beginning with a hard winter frost, followed by pests and disease which wreaked havoc in the vineyards and reduced yields. Summer was cool-ish, while the wine quality was determined by hard work in the vineyard and at the winery. In challenging vintages, the best vignerons can still produce delicious and harmonious wines exhibiting freshness, energy, elegance, and finesse. Let's see how this 2021 single vineyard Chardonnay from Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DEUX ROCHES LES POMMARDS SAINT-VÉRAN 2021 - AP, Burgundy, France (#37919) (XD) - $50.95
This single vineyard Chardonnay has richly elegant, medium-high intensity, and developing aromas of stone and orchard fruits, nectarine, honeysuckle, apple, and pear, plus floral, vanilla, oak spice, and flinty mineral, and hints of mushroom add intrigue and great complexity. It is impressively concentrated on the dry, medium+ to medium-full bodied palate with rich and lovely honeyed, nutty, vanilla oak spice flavours surrounding a core of ripe orchard fruit, apple, pear, nectarine, and floral. It's nicely textured with very good structure and juicy, mouth-watering acidity. Still somewhat youthful on the structured and textured finish with tangy stone fruit and flinty mineral notes lingering on the finish, with excellent length. Should drink beautifully into the early 2030s and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other fine wines by Collovray et Terrier's Deux Roches label and can be found at the LCBO, or ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Deux Roches Vieilles Vignes Pouilly-Fuissé 2021 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Happy Thanksgiving! Tonight's white wine review is a lovely white wine that I first tasted just over a year ago and am delighted to see it arrive at the LCBO as part of the September 21st LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection as an Online & Flagship Exclusive and available at 17 stores in Ontario right now.

Deux Roches is the Burgundy winery of Collovray et Terrier. The Domaine is situated in the heart of the picturesque Mâconnais landscape, in the village of Davayé, and focuses mainly on white wines made with Chardonnay in the Mâconnais style.

The story of Deux Roches, which means "Two Rocks", begins in 1928 when Joanny Collovray settled in the small village of Davayé, a few kilometres west of Mâcon, in the south of Burgundy. He farmed the land, made goat cheese, and grew various crops, including vines. As a simple tenant farmer, he made some wine on the property and the merchants took care of selling it, and in 1940, Collovray was mentioned in the press for the quality of his work. In 1956, his son, Henri Collovray, took over the property and extended the family's vine holdings by purchasing a few parcels in the Mâcon-Davayé appellation. At the young age of 16, Henri's son, Christian, began working the vines and later gave up animal farming to focus solely on winegrowing.

The Terrier family had no history of cultivating vines. Léon Terrier was the village blacksmith and always worked alongside local winegrowers. Growing up in this environment, Léon's son, Jean-Luc Terrier, chose to go to an agricultural college and specialize in viticulture. Jean-Luc crossed paths along the way with Christian, his neighbour and childhood friend, and together they shared a love of the vines and wines.

Christian and Jean-Luc's bond grew even closer when they married two sisters, Brigitte and Florence, who were also from a family of winegrowers. The two couples had a dream to create an estate together to make wines from Christian and his father's vines, and in 1986 the dream became a reality. The vines were grouped around the two rocks of Vergisson and Solutré, which led to the name "Deux Roches". From the beginning, each member of the two families played a role, with Christian tending the vines, Jean-Luc responsible for the cellar and sales, and both Brigitte and Florence first worked the vines, then looked after bottling, and finally devoting themselves to administrative and commercial matters as the business grew.

In 2009, Julien Collovray, son of Christian and Brigitte, joined the family business following his studies in viticulture, oenology, law, and economics, and various experiences at other wine estates. In 2012, Caroline Collovray, Julien's wife, also joined the estate as an oenologist with experience in several estates. In 2019, Pierre-Alexis Terrier, son of Jean-Luc and Florence, returned to the Domaine after completing his studies abroad and working in the vines and the cellar at both Davayé and Antugnac in Languedoc.

The philosophy at Deux Roches is to craft wines that express the unique terroirs of the Mâconnais, while working the soil and respecting the vegetation. Their goal is to have perfection, which means mastering each step from the vineyard to bottle, and includes adapting to the year's weather conditions by evolving and experimenting with each parcel. Since 2017, Deux Roches has earned High Environmental Certification for their commitment to the environment, where they use natural processes and minimize inputs to anticipate disease and manage the vineyard, while also promoting and encouraging biodiversity. Collovray et Terrier also work to have the least possible environmental impact in the cellar, including minimizing the use of water and limiting energy use from non-renewable sources.

Domaine des Deux Roches has two lines of wines within their portfolio - the Timeless Collection and the single vineyard Parcel Selections. The Timeless Collection of wines are exemplary, accessible, and made for drinking and sharing with enjoyment for immediate pleasure. The Timeless Collection wines are blended from several vineyards and aged in stainless steel or oak. The aim of the Timeless Collection is to give true expression of the appellations, while also corresponding to their vision of the Mâconnais style - great classics that never cease to please!

This white wine is from Deux Roches' Timeless Collection. It is 100% Chardonnay from 60 to 100-year-old vines grown on the estate and from selected parcels grown by long-standing partner winegrowers who are friends and family. The vines are planted on mainly limestone clay hillsides near the Rocks of Solutré and Vergisson, and also at Chaintré and Fuissé. The selection of grapes from these sites allows Collovray et Terrier to produce a delicate, mineral wine, with bright and refined aromas, as well as a rich, solid structure. To vinify this wine, the grapes were harvested and gravity-fed into pneumatic presses. Pressing is long and slow to ensure that the juice is delicately extracted and to preserve aromatic finesse. The resulting must is cooled and decanted, followed by alcoholic fermentation in barrel, with 20% in 600 L demi-muids, and less than 10% is new wood, followed by ageing on its fine lees until spring. Inputs are restricted during the entire process, including the use of sulphur dioxide.

The 2021 vintage was a challenging one in Burgundy that began with a hard winter frost, along with pests and disease that wreaked havoc in the vineyards and reduced yields. It was a cool-ish summer, with wine quality determined by hard work in the vineyard and winery. Let's see how this 2021 Chardonnay from Pouilly-Fuissé in Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DEUX ROCHES VIEILLES VIGNES POUILLY-FUISSÉ 2021 - AP, Burgundy, France (#488825) (XD) - $49.95
100% Chardonnay. The medium+ to medium-high intensity nose takes a while to reveal the maturing, earthy, stony mineral aromas mingling with baked apple, lemon peel, and whiffs of mushroom and nut. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it is deliciously flavoured, structured, and complex with lovely orchard fruit, apple, pear, lemon citrus, white peach and spice flavours backed by nutty notes and a stony mineral core. It has zesty, well-structured acidity, while stony-leesy mineral, orchard fruit, citrus, and mushroom notes with touches of spice lingering on the long, crisp, and very juicy finish. An intriguing wine to enjoy on its own or with poultry and seafood over the next 3-4 years. Recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

One other wine from Collovray et Terrier's Deux Roches label can be found at the LCBO, while the entire portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Les Turitelles Altugnac Pinot Noir 2022 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious Pinot Noir from the Upper Aude Valley in the Languedoc region. It is a brand-new arrival at the LCBO that landed on shelves across Ontario as part of the September 21st LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Domaine Altugnac is the Languedoc wine estate of two winegrowing families - Collovray & Terrier. The estate of Altugnac is situated in Antugnac, on the edge of Languedoc, on the Pyrenean foothills, where the vines flirt with the scrubland and the woods, between sunny days and cool nights, and at the crossroads of the Atlantic and Mediterranean winds. Antugnac is a peaceful village that is dominated by an amphitheatre of mountains, surrounded by breathtaking landscapes, and an invitation to imagine and create unique wines.

The Collovray & Terrier arrived in Antugnac in 1997 with a desire to explore new horizons and take on new challenges. Coming from Burgundy, the quality of the white wines in Languedoc appealed to them, especially those from high in the Aude Valley where mostly Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are planted on limestone soils. Moreover, the harvest dates of these grapes were within a few days compared to those back home in Davayé (Burgundy), while the vegetative cycles were also very similar.

At the time, the domaine was owned by Mr. Ramirez, a founding member of the association of private cellars, and one of the first to imagine Chardonnay in the Aude Valley. Upon taking over the domaine in 1997, the Collovray & Terrier families undertook the colossal project to revitalize the 45 hectares of vineyards and rebuild the facilities.

Today, there are six members of the Collovray & Terrier families that work with a strong sense of cohesion within the family business, and with the support of a close-knit, loyal, and dedicated team. Their philosophy begins with strong roots in agriculture, where everything begins in the vines. It is widely known that working with the soil and respecting the vegetation are the prerequisites for a healthy, ripe, and good quality crop. While adapting to the year's weather conditions, the team at Altugnac has the know-how to evolve and experiment, in order to ensure that each variety is harvested at the optimum moment. The goal is to reveal the diversity of their terroirs, while also protecting and developing the biodiversity in and around the vineyards.

Collovray & Terrier has three ranges of wines within the Altugnac label. The excellent 2021 Altugnac Terres Amoureuses that I enjoyed last year (with a few bottles still available at LCBO) is from their Les Terroirs d'Altitude range, while this red wine is from their Les Turitelles d'Altugnac range. Turitelles are marine fossils that are found in abundance in their plots situated on the slopes of the Upper Aude Valley. This area experiences significant diurnal temperature variations between night and day, and when combined with clay-limestone soils, helps promote slow and complete maturation of the grapes to produce are range of aromatic and fresh wines.

This red wine is crafted with 100% Pinot Noir that was grown in their vineyard that is full of Turitelles fossils on the slopes of the Upper Aude Valley. These fossils are the origin of their soil and are carried by a limestone and clay base, which form the sloping plateaus in the landscape. This terroir in the foothills of the Pyrenees is known for the quality of its hillsides and its sunny and cool microclimate. To vinify this wine, the harvested grapes were placed into vats by gravity. They underwent a few days of cold, prefectural maceration, along with daily, gentle pickling and winding, to extract a beautiful aromatic palette and silky tannins. Two weeks after a controlled-temperature alcoholic fermentation, below 25°C, the juices are tasted, followed by malolactic fermentation and ageing in stainless steel or concrete tanks for several months, with bottling taking place within a year from harvest. From harvest to bottling, inputs are limited as much as possible, including the reduction of sulphites.

From a hot and dry growing season that is rated as a very good vintage, let's see how this 2022 Pinot Noir from Languedoc is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LES TURITELLES ALTUGNAC PINOT NOIR 2022 - IGP Pays d'Oc, France (#37921) (XD) - $19.95
The ripe, medium+ intensity nose offers mild mannered, yet typical, Pinot characters of red & black cherry, and strawberry aromas with touches of beet root, earth, and black tea. The ripe notes continue on the light-to-mid-weighted palate with red & black cherry, strawberry, beet root, earth, and black tea leaf flavour replays. It has fresh, succulent acidity, while the light, supple tannins have a gentle, chalky textured mouthfeel. A touch grippy, with dark berry, earthy, and hints of mineral linger on the finish, with very good length. Recommended buy. Score: 88+ pts

Small quantities of the Amoureuses, while the entire portfolio of wines by Collovray et Terrier can be ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Altugnac Terres Amoureuses 2021 (Limoux) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely Chardonnay (with a splash of Mauzac) from the Limoux appellation in Languedoc that arrived at the LCBO last month as part of the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on September 23rd.

It is produced by Domaine Altugnac, one of two wine estates owned by Collovray et Terrier - two winegrowing families situated in Burgundy and Languedoc. Christian Collovray and Jean-Luc Terrier had been friends since childhood and shared a love for the vines and wine. Their bond grew even closer when they married two sisters, Brigitte and Florence, who also came from a family of winegrowers. Together, the four of them dreamt of creating an estate to make wine from Christian's and his father's vines - a dream that became a reality in 1986.

The story of Domaine Altugnac begins in 1997, when the Collovray & Terrier families arrived in Languedoc with a desire to explore new horizons and take on new challenges. Coming from Burgundy, the quality of the white wines in Languedoc appealed to them, especially those from high in the Aude Valley where mostly Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are planted on limestone soils. Harvest dates were within a few days compared to those back in Davayé (Burgundy), while the vegetative cycles were also very similar.

Altugnac is located on the western edge of Languedoc, in the Pyrenean foothills, where the vines flirt with the scrub land and the woods. It is at the crossroads of the Atlantic and Mediterranean winds and experiences sunny days and cool nights. The village of Altugnac is peaceful, dominated by an amphitheatre of mountains, and surrounded by breathtaking landscapes - all an invitation to imagine and create unique wines.

Prior to the arrival of Collovray & Terrier, the domaine was owned by Mr. Ramirez. He was one of the founding members of the association of private cellars, and one of the first to imagine Chardonnay in the Aude Valley. After taking over the domaine, Collovray & Terrier undertook the colossal project to revitalize the 45 hectares of vineyards and rebuild the facilities.

Today, as a family business, six members of the Collovray & Terrier family work within the company, with a strong sense of cohesion, and with the support of a close-knit, loyal, and dedicated team. With roots in agriculture, their philosophy begins in the vineyard by working the soil and respecting the vegetation - prerequisites for healthy, ripe, and high-quality grapes. The objective is perfection, by which they strive to master each step of the winemaking process from vineyard to bottle. They also adapt to the year's weather conditions and evolve and experiment. The goal is to reveal the diversity of their terroirs, while also protecting and developing biodiversity.

This white wine is named "Terrres Amoureuses", which translates to "Lands of Love", and is crafted mainly with Chardonnay that was grown among 30 hectares of vines that were planted in the early 1970s and are some of the oldest in Languedoc. Grown in the Aude Valley at 400 metres above sea level, the terroir consists of clay and limestone soils that are covered with a gravelly surface layer composed of black earth rich in schist debris, which is typical of the area and unique to Antugnac. At this altitude, the vines have a south/south-easterly aspect while facing the Pyrenees, while also having great exposure to the sun, winds, and a micro-climate that favours a slow and long maturation period. Overall, the valley has a Mediterranean climate with mountain influences, and experiences dramatic diurnal temperatures between days and nights.

To craft this white wine, which is mainly Chardonnay and a small amount of Mauzuc, the grapes were harvested manually and delicately loaded into the press by gravity. The grapes are slowly pressed and decanted into stainless steel tanks. After settling, the juice is transferred by gravity into barrels to undergo alcoholic and malolactic fermentation. The wine remains in barrels, with only 20% new, and is aged on fine lees for a further 10 to 12 months. The wines are then assembled with their lees and undergo further ageing in stainless steel vats prior to bottling the following spring. Let's see how this 2021 white wine from Limoux is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ALTUGNAC TERRES AMOUREUSES 2021 - AP Limoux, Languedoc, France (#16413) (XD) - $26.95
Primarily Chardonnay with a splash of Mauzac, this barrel-fermented white wine has a fresh, medium-high intensity nose that offers attractive and ripe stone fruit, pear, quince, apple, and citrus aromas which mingle with mealy and earthy mineral notes. On the medium-full bodied palate it is dry and ripe with apple, quince, pear, and lemon citrus flavours joined by lovely mealy and mineral notes, plus touches of vanilla and a twist of honey adding further complexity. Elegant, structured, and finely textured with fresh, juicy acidity, while mealy, mineral, stone fruit, and citrus notes with a touch of spice linger on long, flavourful finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Other lovely wines by Altugnac and Collovray et Terrier can be ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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