September 18, 2021 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: Ontario

The upcoming September 18, 2021 LCBO VINTAGES Release is the annual harvest season look at Local Wines from Ontario. It is a mono-thematic Release, as per the usual. All of these local wines, plus those from main release will be on shelves across Ontario by this Saturday.

We begin with the theme on Local Wines from various wine regions across Ontario. Of the seventeen wines listed as part of this theme, three are included among my top wine picks. At the top of this list is a fine, off-dry Riesling (i.e. slightly sweet) by Charles Baker from Niagara. Also from Niagara is a Chardonnay Musqué, an aromatic mutation of Chardonnay that is grown primarily in Niagara and Finger Lakes wine regions. Lastly, there is a Pinot Noir from Prince Edward Country, located along Lake Ontario between Toronto and Kingston, Ontario. Although not part of the theme, there are also a pair of lovely wines from Two Sisters Vineyards in Niagara - a semi-sweet Riesling and a dry rosé made with Bordeaux varietals such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc. There's also a mead that was co-fermented with apple cider from a recipe written in 1980, resulting in an interesting (and delicious) Apple Honey Wine by Rosewood Estates Winery.

Nearly all of my red wine picks are from France and Italy, with the only wine not from either of these countries being a GSM blend from Australia that consists of 46% Grenache, 36% Shiraz, and 18% Mourvedre. From France, the Côtes du Rhône is a blend of 85% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 5% Cinsault, while the Roussillon red consists of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah. The 2016 Corbières is a blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Syrah, while the 2017 Corbières is a blend of 80% Syrah and 20% Grenache. The Beaujolais is made with Gamay, while the Costières de Nîmes Syrah includes 10% Grenache. From Italy, the Chianti Classico (Annata) and Brunello are both 100% Sangiovese, while the Gran Selezione Chianti Classico is a blend of 93% Sangiovese and 7% Colorino. Lastly, the fantastic Barolo is made with 100% Nebbiolo.

Among my white wine recommendations, the Bordeaux Blanc is a traditional blend of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc, while the Rhône white consists of Viognier, Grenache Blanc, and Roussanne. There are a trio of Sauvignon Blanc wines worth your consideration, with the versions from Margaret River (Australia) and Napa Valley (California) both seeing some oak ageing.

From my rosé wine picks are dry rosés, with the l'Escarelle a blend of mainly Rolle and Ugni Blanc, while the Paradis consists of 70% Syrah, 20% Mourvèdre, and 10% Vermentino / Rolle. The rose from Languedoc is a blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah. The lone sparkling wine is a dry bubbly made using an uncommon blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Sauvignon Blanc. Last, but definitely not the least, is a lovely Sauternes dessert wine that is primarily Sémillon and a dollop of Sauvignon Blanc.

Enjoy my wine recommendations from this Release! Cheers!

Red Wine:

• LA VIE D'ARNAUD CORBIÈRES 2017 - AC, Languedoc, France (#18784) (XD) - $13.95  88+ pts  wine review
  
• FERRATON PÈRE & FILS SAMORËNS CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2019 - AC, France (#168708) (XD) - $16.95
• MICHEL GASSIER FLEUR DE SYRAH 2019 - AC Costières de Nîmes, Rhône, France (#678086) (XD) - $18.95
• DOMAINE LA ROUGEANTE 2016 - AC Corbières, Languedoc, France (#15298) (XD) - $18.95  89 pts  wine review
• LORNANO CHIANTI CLASSICO 2016 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#211599) (XD) - $19.95  88 pts  wine review
  
• LAURENT PERRACHON ROCHE BLEUE JULIÉNAS 2019 - AC, Beaujolais, France (#487165) (XD) - $19.95

• FAMILLE LAFAGE LIEU DIT NARASSA 2017 - AP Côtes du Roussillon-Villages, France (#483313) (XD) - $23.95
• WAKEFIELD JARAMAN CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2018 - Clare Valley & Coonawarra, South Australia (#142398) (XD) - $24.95  90 pts  wine review
  
• SONS OF EDEN KENNEDY GRENACHE / SHIRAZ / MOURVÈDRE 2018 - Barossa Valley, South Australia (#558692) (XD) - $24.95
• LUNGAROTTI ROSSO DI MONTEFALCO 2016 - DOC, Umbria, Italy (#577668) (XD) - $26.95  90 pts  wine review
  
• ROCCA DELLE MACÌE SINGLE VINEYARD RISERVA DI FIZZANO GRAN SELEZIONE CHIANTI CLASSICO 2015 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#699454) (XD) - $34.95  91+ pts  wine review
• CLOSSON CHASE CLOSSON CHASE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2018 - VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario, Canada (#145888) (XD) - $36.00
• FATTOI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2015 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#33498) (XD) - $47.95
• AURELIO SETTIMO ROCCHE DELL'ANNUNZIATA BAROLO 2015 - DOCG, Piedmont, Italy (#293761) (XD) - $55.95
  

White Wine:

• MATETIC CORRALILLO SAUVIGNON BLANC 2019 - Estate bottled, Valle de San Antonio, Chile (#347740) (XD) - $15.95
• CHÂTEAU MONT-REDON RÉSERVE BLANC 2019 - AC Côtes du Rhône, France (#18602) (XD) - $17.95
• CAVE SPRING ESTATE CHARDONNAY MUSQUÉ 2019 - Sustainable, Cave Spring Vineyard, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#246579) (XD) - $17.95
• CHÂTEAU THIEULEY ENTRE-DEUX-MERS 2019 - AC, Bordeaux, France (#21403) (XD) - $18.95  90 pts  wine review
• HOWARD PARK MIAMUP SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017 - Margaret River, Western Australia (#20018) (XD) - $19.95
• TWO SISTERS VINEYARDS RIESLING 2018 - VQA Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#20413) (M) - $35.00  FE
• CHARLES BAKER PICONE VINEYARD RIESLING 2017 - VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#241182) (D) - $39.00
• GRGICH HILLS FUMÉ BLANC DRY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017 - Estate grown, Napa Valley, California, USA (#346296) (XD) - $42.95  FE
  

Rosé Wine:

• REINE DES FLEURS ROSÉ 2020 - AP Languedoc, France (#19841) (XD) - $14.95  89 pts  wine review
  
• CHÂTEAU DE L'ESCARELLE LES DEUX ANGES ROSÉ 2020 - AP Coteaux Varois en Provence, France (#19902) (XD) - $24.95
• CHÂTEAU PARADIS TERRE DES ANGES ROSÉ 2020 - AC Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence, France (#19838) (XD) - $27.95
• TWO SISTERS VINEYARDS MARGO ROSÉ 2020 - VQA Niagara River, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (#22484) (XD) - $35.00  VOE
  

Sparkling Wine:

• APALTAGUA COSTERO EXTRA BRUT SPARKLING - Valle de San Antonio, Chile (#18559) (XD) - $17.95

Dessert Wine:

• ROSEWOOD LEGACY CYSER APPLE HONEY WINE 2017 - Ontario, Canada (#521138) (500 mL) (S) - $19.95  90+ pts  wine review
• CASTELNAU DE SUDUIRAUT 2006 - Second wine of Château Suduiraut, AC Sauternes, Bordeaux, France (#29694) (375 mL) (S) - $23.95

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Estancia Los Cardones Anko Torrontés 2019 (Argentina) - Wine Review

After enjoying a fine Malbec from Salta last week, I return to Argentina's northernmost wine region and a land of extremes for a delicious Torrontés for tonight's wine review. This white wine is new to the LCBO, arriving as part of the recent September 4 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Found only in Argentina, Torrontés is its most famous criolla variety and is the signature white wine varietal of the country. thriving in the high altitude of northwestern Argentine wine country. There are three sub-varieties of Torrontés - Mendocino, Sanjuanino, and Riojano. The first two variants produce wines that are lighter and fresher, but it's the Riojano that is the most cultivated because it expresses the best qualities to produce fine wines, in particular those from Cafayate Valley, Salta. It is typically light-yellow in colour, but can also have golden or green hues, and is characterized by floral aromas like rose, jasmine, and geranium. While the aromas may indicate sweetness, it is typically dry with fresh acidity.

This lovely Torrontés is produced by Estancia Los Cardones, a winery that was established in 2008 by Fernando Saavedra Jr. and his father, along with partners Jeff Mausbach (Catena alumni) and renowned winemaker Alejandro (Colo) Sejanovich. Together, they realized their dream to create a boutique winery in their native province of Salta to produce wines that express the extreme beauty, altitude, and sunlight of the region. The name "Estancia Los Cardones" pays tribute to the region's giant cacti - Cardones - while Anko means "high water" in the native Indian language of Quechan. Anko is an high altitude oasis that was treasured as a precious sanctuary and provided protection from the harsh elements of nature.

The winery is located in Tolombón, Salta, just south of the city of Cafayate at 1,700 metres (5,500 feet) above sea level at the top of the eastern slopes of the Calchaquí Valleys. At this altitude, Salta is exposed to intense sunlight during the day, and cold mountain nights which ensure excellent natural acid retention and imparts freshness, elegance and balance. The soil profile at the winery is very rocky, with abundant splintered shale and crushed mica, lending distinct minerality to the wines.

Tasting Note:

ESTANCIA LOS CARDONES ANKO TORRONTÉS 2019 - Salta, Argentina (#19394) (XD) - $16.95
Gently whole cluster pressed, cold macerated, and fermented using natural yeast, this unoaked Torrontés was grown on sandy soils with crushed mica at 1,700 metres (5,500 feet) above sea level. Screw cap. Delicate, medium-high intensity aromas offer lovely lychee, jasmine floral, tropical fruit, and citrus notes with a subtle earthy mineral element rising out of the glass. On the spicy, medium+ bodied palate, it has very good concentration and delicious aroma replays of lychee, citrus, jasmine, and tropical fruit flavours lifted by fresh, balanced acidity. Dry and crisp, with notes of saline and oyster shell minerality lingering on the long, satisfying finish. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by the team at Estancia Los Cardones are available through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Château Siaurac 2010 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a lovely Bordeaux from the legendary 2010 vintage that returned to the LCBO last weekend as part of the September 4th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Château Siaurac is the largest and most emblematic estate in the Lalande de Pomerol appellation. It is located on a single, contiguous plot on the plateau of Néac, which is a continuation of the famous plateau of neighbouring Pomerol, separated by a small trickle of water called the Barbane.

The Château's origins of winegrowing date back to at least the mid-18th century, with documents showing casks of red and white wine sold to the son of a wine merchant in Libourne, nearby to the southwest of the estate. The Domaine has been passed down familial lines since Pierre Brisson purchased the estate in 1832. When his son, Benjamin Brisson, inherited the estate and married Elise Chaperon, the Château was mentioned in their marriage contract. Their only son, Joseph Brisson, was a town councillor, Mayor of Néac, and Member of Parliament for the Gironde region in 1902. Joseph managed the Siaurac holdings and estate for 50 years, fighting for the recognition of the quality of wines from Néac. He was also President of the Winegrower's Association from 1919 and tried to merge the appellation of Néac with that of Pomerol.

After marriage in 1919, Joseph and his wife, Marthe, had a daughter named Madeleine. She married into the Guichard family, and their son Oliver inherited the lands and vineyards in 1978. Starting in 2004, the estate was managed by his daughter Aline Guichard and her husband Paul Goldschmidt. After Artémis Domaines acquired a stake in 2014, the property was sold to Les Terroirs de Suravenir in 2020 with the intention of developing the Château over the long-term and realizing its full potential.

In addition to the magnificent vineyards, Château Siaurac also has gardens on the property which are on the list of the 300 most exceptional gardens in France, featuring some extraordinary trees that are as much as 350 years old.

This red wine was grown in the Château's 41 hectare vineyard (which is 46 hectares today) on gravel, deep clays, and sandy clay soils. The vineyard has 40 distinct plots which are planted to 74% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Malbec, while the blend of this red wine is 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc from a selection of the best plots of the vineyard. After a controlled and gentle extraction, followed by fermentation, it was aged for 12 months in French oak barrels, 20% new.

Although this 2010 Bordeaux has shown up in VINTAGES a number of times over the years, this is actually my first time trying it. Let's see how this 2010 Bordeaux is tasting now, 11 years from vintage.

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU SIAURAC 2010 - AC Lalande de Pomerol, Bordeaux, France (#309831) (XD) - $44.95
This blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc pours deep ruby in colour. The maturing nose is intensely aromatic and complex with very attractive sweet baking spices, sweet plums, dried cherry, dried roses, and sandalwood aromas with savoury earth undertones. It's medium-full bodied on the spicy, slightly warm palate with dark berry, black cherry, blackberry, and plum flavours surrounding a savoury-earthy, and sweet spice core. Acids are well-balanced, while tannins are still a bit tight and grippy. Excellent length on the savoury, sweet spiced finish. Should continue to drink well for a number of years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

As they only make two wines, the other wine from Château Siaurac can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Piattelli Reserve Malbec 2019 (Argentina) - Wine Review

To continue the recent string of lovely Argentine wines, tonight's wine review is another lovely Malbec that arrived at the LCBO over the long weekend and is featured as a "Smart Buy" in the September 4th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Crafted by Piattelli Vineyards, their story begins in the 1940s, when the Giovanni Piattelli family immigrated from Tuscany to Mendoza and brought along with them a winemaking legacy, tradition, and passion. In the late 1990s, American businessman Jon Malinski was visiting Argentina on the hunt for lumber to import into the U.S.A. By chance, Jon met the Piattelli family and found incredible vineyards and wine, amazing people, beautiful landscapes, and couldn't bear the thought of leaving the country. Soon thereafter, the Malinski and Piattelli families came together to form Piattelli Vineyards.

Today, Piattelli Vineyards continues to be family-owned and managed. At the heart of their operations is the winery that opened in 2002 in the town of Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo (Mendoza). In 2009, they expanded into Cafayete (Salta) - where this wine is from - with vineyards and a brand new gravity flow winery. A 4th generation winemaker and daughter of a famous Mendozan winemaker, Valeria Antolin is the Principal Winemaker at Piattelli. She has been with Piattelli since the beginning and leads all winemaking decisions at both facilities.

Sustainability is a core value at Piattelli Vineyards, believing that what is good for the environment is also good for the wine. They are committed to producing wines that reflect their landscape and climate, while preserving natural resources.

Although Malbec is widely cultivated in Argentina, this particular Malbec is from the northern region of Salta, which is home to not only some of Argentina's highest vineyards, but also the world's, ranging in elevation from 1,530 to 3,111 metres (5,000 to 10,200 feet) above sea level. The climate in Salta is arid and dry, with high average temperatures, a wide daily thermal amplitude (i.e. large diurnal temperature range), and intense solar radiation enhanced by the altitude and long summers.

The system of mountain valleys in northern Argentina are called the "Calchaquí Valleys" and were formed 5 million years ago, stretching 270 km within the region. This Malbec was grown in Cafayate Valley in Salta at an elevation of 1,700 metres (5,600 feet) on soils that are mostly free-draining chalky loam, and in some areas quite rocky. Since Cafayate has a desert climate with very low rainfall and humidity, the vines rely on meltwater from the Andes to keep them hydrated, while the dry soils cause stress in the vines, leading to fewer, but more concentrated grapes rich in flavours. Let's see how this high-altitude Malbec from Cafayate is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

PIATTELLI RESERVE MALBEC 2019 - Valle de Cafayate, Salta, Argentina (#452029) (XD) - $16.95
100% Malbec that was aged for 8 months in American and French oak barrels. The perfumed, medium-high intensity nose has complex aromas of dark berry, blackberry, inky, violet, meaty, reductive, and spice aromas with savoury, wet earth undertones. It's medium-full bodied on the ripe palate with pleasing dark berry, blackberry, violet, and dark plum flavours accented with wood spices. It has fresh, balanced acidity and smooth, fine-grained tannins with a subtle, fine chalky texture. Savoury, earthy, and woody with blackberry and violets lingering on the finish, with very good length. Recommended buy. Score: 89 pts

Other delicious wines from Piattelli Vineyards can be ordered through their Agent - Imprese Inc. or Kinetic Brands.

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Montpellier Viognier 2020 (California) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a tasty Viognier blend from California that is a new arrival to the LCBO that was released as part of the August 21st LCBO VINTAGES Release.

The Montpellier Vineyards brand of wines are produced by Bronco Wine Company, a family-owned company whose winemaking traditions go back to 1893. Since childhood, brothers Fred T. and Joseph S. Franzia, alongside their first cousin, John G. Franzia, have been learning every aspect of the wine business from their fathers. On Christmas Day in 1973, the three members of the Franzia family succumbed to the industry's charms and formed Bronco Wine Company.

Over the next 40+ years, the family-owned company has grown to become a force in the U.S. wine industry, committing itself to becoming the largest privately held vineyard holder in the U.S. Bronco Wine Company is focused on crafting quality wines for every table through hard work, innovation, and a willingness to embrace change - touchstones that are the backbone of its success and while also laying the groundwork for a strong foundation for future generations.

Tasting Note:

MONTPELLIER VIOGNIER 2020 - California, USA (#658138) (D) - $19.95
Predominantly Viognier (83%) with Chardonnay (6.7%), Gewurztraminer (5%), and Muscat (5.3%) completing the blend. The medium intensity nose seems quiet with aromas of lemon, white floral, and herbs with hints of apple, pear, lychee, and beeswax. The mid-weighted palate is fleshy and viscous with ripe lemon, white flowers, herbal flavours. The bright, juicy acidity hides the vague impression of sweetness, with notes of ripe apple, vanilla, lychee and beeswax joining the flavour replays on the dry, juicy, slightly bitter and leesy finish, with very good length. Score: 88 pts

Other delicious wines from Montpellier Vineyards are available through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Chakana Estate Selection Malbec 2019 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is this delicious, vegan-friendly Malbec from Argentina. After a two year absence, the Yaguarete (Jaguar) of the Uco Valley returned to LCBO VINTAGES on August 21st and is widely available across the province.

It is produced by Chakana Wines, a winery that was founded in 2002, after taking up the family legacy that began in the 19th century when their ancestors made quality wines in the mountainous region of Valtellina in Lombardy, Italy. Chakana is dedicated to studying and understanding some of the best terroirs in Argentina, with the primary goal of producing authentic wines that express the identity and character of its soils. They are located in Agrelo (Luján de Cuyo), but also have vineyards in Altamira (Uco Valley), all within Mendoza.

In 2012, Chakana began work to recover and maintain the harmony of its soils by transitioning to organic and biodynamic viticulture. They also produce their wines with minimal intervention, using indigenous yeasts, and favouring the use of porous materials (i.e. concrete without epoxy and barrels) in ageing, in order to preserve the character of the place in the wine. The winemaker is Gabriel Bloise, a member of the new generation of winemakers. Gabriel understands oenology as a means of expressing nature and believes that the best wines are those that do not bear the mark of whoever makes them, but of the places where they are developed.

The last time I tasted this wine was over two years ago when the 2016 Chakana Estate Selection Malbec showed up in VINTAGES in spring 2019. Because of Chakana's constant soil and terroir research, the grapes that make up this Malbec seem to be sourced from different regions each vintage. For the 2019 vintage, this Malbec comes from Gualtallary (Tupungato) and Los Chacayes (Tunuyán), within the Uco Valley, at an altitude of 1,100 metres (3,600 feet) on sandy loam soils with gravels near the surface. The climate is cool and sunny with good diurnal temperatures, but is relatively more humid than other areas of Mendoza. It was aged in used French oak barrels and concrete vats for 12 months. Let's see how this latest Malbec is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHAKANA ESTATE SELECTION MALBEC 2019 - Vegan, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina (#219261) (XD) - $19.95
100% Malbec from Gualtallary (Tupungato) and Los Chacayes (Tunuyán). Generous aromas of wet earth, game, savoury, and brett are accented with ripe red berry, cherry, floral, and sweet spice notes. On the medium-full bodied palate it has very ripe red fruit and cherry flavours joined by savoury, earthy, and wood notes, supported by fresh, balanced acidity and grainy, textured tannins that are slightly grippy. Tangy with savoury earth notes linger on the finish, with good length. Score: 88 pts

Other delicious wines by Chakana Wines are available through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Salentein Reserve Rosé 2020 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a lovely dry rosé from Argentina that is made with Syrah! It's a new arrival to the LCBO, landing on shelves across Ontario a couple of weeks ago as part of the August 21st LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Bodegas Salentein was founded in the 1990s with the goal of producing first-rate wines with a sense of place, while respecting nature and using the principles of sustainability to take part in the life of the area's community. They are located in the heart of Mendoza, with vineyards in the Uco Valley, where the sandy and loamy soils, and dry weather with very hot days and very cool nights help produce high quality grapes.

The magnificent bodega is located at an elevation of 1,200 meters (4,000 feet) with the nearby western horizon dominated by the snowy Andes mountains. The cross-shape of the bodega has four wings, and each is a little bodega with two levels - the first level is for fermentation and storage, while the second level is subterranean (9 metres / 29 feet underground) and used for barrel ageing. A gravity-flow system is used to gently move the wine through the vinification and ageing process. The underground cellar has the benefit of constant temperatures and humidity, allowing the wines to age in optimal conditions. The floor of the cellar was built using natural stones from the Cuyo region using yellow quartzite sandstone, green chlorite of schist variety, and red limonite sandstone, among others. If you are visiting Mendoza, you will certainly want to visit Bodegas Salentein!

This particular dry rosé was crafted with 100% clone 99 Syrah grapes planted in 1996 in the vineyards of the El Oasis estate in Los Arboles (Tunuyán county) at an altitude of 1,050 metres (3,400 feet) above sea-level. With a hot summer that was slightly warmer than average, combined with low rainfall, yields were down in 2020, but produced healthy grapes of exceptional quality. Let's see how this 2020 Syrah Rosé is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

SALENTEIN RESERVE ROSÉ 2020 - Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina (#19555) (XD) - $17.95
This lovely 100% Syrah was matured for 6 months on its fermentation lees. Screw cap. The fresh, medium+ intensity nose has pretty aromas of red berry, cherry, strawberry, and floral wrapped around stony mineral. The dry, mid-weighted palate is tangy, tart, and spicy, accented with citrus, red berry, strawberry, and mineral flavours that are supported by crisp, lemony acidity. Subtle chalky texture on the mid-palate. Tangy citrus with saline minerals lingering on the crisp finish, with very good length. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Bodegas Salentein are available at the LCBO, as well as through their Agent - Azureau Wines & Spirits.

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