Clairmont Classique Crozes-Hermitage 2018 (Rhône) - Wine Review

If you're a Syrah wine lover like me, tonight's wine review is this lovely Crozes-Hermitage from Rhône that landed in LCBO VINTAGES on September 5th - with plenty still available for purchase across Ontario.

Clairmont is a northern Rhône mini co-operative that was formed in 1972 by three families with an ambition to work together and share resources. With a team spirit, Clairmont's strength stems from this alliance of skills, shared values, and relationships. Although Clairmont is still a small company today, they are the second largest producer of Crozes-Hermitage. Clairmont is situated in the town of Beaumont-Monteux and is a key stakeholder in Crozes-Hermitage, owning 115 hectares in the heart of the appellation. The younger generation has taken over the responsibilities, working closely and collaboratively with their group of winegrowers.

It is interesting to know that Clairmont is one of the only producers in the world where the winegrowers play an active role in the winemaking process. Each harvest, the winegrowers bring the grapes to the cellar and help plan the different wines that will be produced. Good wines come from good grapes, and plot selection plays an important role in determining which which grapes go into each cuvée - with everyone playing a role in deciding which wines will be conceived. The end goal is to produce wines of high quality that are desired by everyone in the company.

This particular Crozes-Hermitage is a favourite of one of their winemakers - Florent Martinelli. It is a blend of several plots of Syrah grapes planted on two very specific terroirs - ancient alluvial terraces off the Isère and the Rhône rivers comprised of deep pebbly soils, and south/southwest-facing slopes on high terraces featuring smooth, rounded pebbles.

Tasting Note:

CLAIRMONT CLASSIQUE CROZES-HERMITAGE 2018 - AC, Rhône, France (#537811) (XD) - $24.95
100% Syrah matured solely in vats, the nose is open and very ripe with blackberry, violet, savoury, and crushed rock aromas. It is medium+ bodied on the lively palate with ripe blackberry, wild berry, black pepper spice, and savoury meaty flavours, along with touches of stony mineral. Acids are fresh and lively, while tannins are smooth and finely grained with a pleasant chalky grip developing with each sip. Long, satisfying finish has stony and black pepper notes. Lovely! Score: 90 pts

Other wines from Clairmont can be ordered via their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.

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Lafazanis Geometria Moschofilero 2018 (Greece) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is this lovely white wine from Greece that arrived in LCBO VINTAGES on September 5th. It is widely available at LCBO outlets across Ontario, as well as available online for delivery to store or home delivery.

It is produced by Lafazanis Winery, a producer whose roots go back to 1946, when Vassilis Lafazanis started making wine in Piraeus, a port city in Attica, Greece. In 1960, the Lafazanis family built its first family-owned winery in Magoula (Attica), some distance northwest of Piraeus. In 1985, the second generation of the family acquired an education in oenology and had a vision which helped pave the way to create a high-quality, state-of-the-art winemaking facility. In 1993, Spyros Lafazanis decided to move the winery to Nemea, a region he grew to love as a young oenologist, to cultivate the native grapes of Greece and produce superb quality wines.

Today, 80% of the approximately 4 million litres of Lafazanis' wine production is consumed locally. They have more than 10 hectares of their own vines, but also work in co-operation with 300 winegrowers. The vision is to produce high quality wines enthusiastically and environmentally responsibly, evolving to set the bar higher and higher over the time.

If you know me, you already know that I love this grape. Moschofilero (pronounced mow-sko-FEEL-err-oh) is a grape variety native to Greece that has existed in various iterations since ancient times. It's popularity grew in the 1970's and 1980's when producers studied the varietal more closely and crafted elegant, terroir-driven Moschofilero wines. The grape has a rather high degree of difficulty to grow because of its location and cultivation conditions, but the results are lovely when everything lines up. Moschofilero is typically grown in the misty, mountainous vineyards of the Peloponnese region of Mantinia, in central Greece. It is a pink-skinned grape and produces lively and floral white wines such as this expression from Lafazanis.

Tasting Note:

LAFAZANIS GEOMETRIA MOSCHOFILERO 2018 - PGI Peloponnese, Greece (#15753) (XD) - $17.95
The inviting nose is fresh and aromatic with floral and peach aromas plus touches of tropical fruit, candied ginger, spice, and citrus. It is medium+ bodied on the slightly oily palate with very good fruit concentration alongside crisp, lively acidity. It's dry with flavours of yellow stone fruit, spice, and lily florals. Nicely textured on the mid-palate with floral, spice, peach, and saline mineral notes lingering on the long, slightly drying finish. Recommended buy. Score: 90 pts

Other wines from the Lafazanis portfolio can be ordered via their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.

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Lungarotti San Giorgio 2016 (Umbria) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is this lovely "Super Umbrian" that arrived in LCBO VINTAGES on September 5 as a Flagship Exclusive. Wines featured as Flagship Exclusives are available in limited quantities at select LCBO outlets across Ontario - click the 5-digit product code below to find a location with bottles available closest to you.

Cantine Giorgio Lungarotti was founded in the 1960's in Torgiano, the heart and birthplace of Umbrian wine. Lungarotti became a major driving force for new opportunities in the region - with wine as the centrepiece. Today, the 250 hectares of vineyards are run by sisters Chiara Lungarotti & Teresa Severini who have implemented innovative cultivation techniques based on sustainability and respect for the environment.

This red wine bears the signature of founder Giorgio Lungarotti, whose continuous desire to experiment led him to try Cabernet Sauvignon in Umbria. He introduced Cabernet Sauvignon in Umbria in the late 1950's to early 1960's, and it was still an uncommon varietal in the mid-1970's.

The Lungarotti San Giorgio was first created in 1977 and is a blend of equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese, becoming one of the first great wines to blend these two varietals and known as Super Umbrian. The Cabernet Sauvignon grapes for this wine come from a vineyard with a medium mix of pebbles and mostly limestone on a tufa subsoil, while the Sangiovese is from the Monticchio Vineyard that has clay layers alternating with sandy fringes in the lower part of the hillside. It was aged in barriques for 12 months, followed by at least 1 year in bottle.

The current bottling of the San Giorgio label depicts Saint George and the Dragon, from the famous painting by Raffaello displayed in the Gallerie degli Uffizi (a museum I visited many years ago), paying homage to the traditional feast of Saint George when propitiatory bonfires are still lit in the Torgiano vineyards with cuttings from the winter vine pruning.

Tasting Note:

LUNGAROTTI SAN GIORGIO 2016 - IGT Umbria Rosso, Italy (#62877) (XD) - $51.95
A 50/50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese, this Super Umbrian has a medium-high intensity nose that needs some coaxing, but reveals pretty and complex aromas of red cherry, baking spice, clove, and savoury earthy notes with touches of dried spice and floral. The full-bodied, structured palate has cherry, clove, oak spice, earthy, and mocha chocolate flavours with touches of dried floral and berry tones. Tannins are fine-grained, textured, and quite drying, while acids are very good. Savoury and earthy on the long, juicy finish. You could open this now, but this will be great in 2-3 years and drink well until at least the end of the decade. Score: 90+ pts

A few bottles from Lungarotti are available through LCBO, while others can be purchased via their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Finca SOPHENIA Altosur Malbec 2018 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is the first of what will be a series on Malbec from Argentina. This Malbec arrived at the LCBO as part of the June 13, 2020 LCBO VINTAGES Release and, surprisingly, there are many bottles still available across Ontario.

It is produced by Finca SOPHENIA, a winery recognized as one of the highest quality wine producers in Argentina. Finca SOPHENIA was established in 1997 by founder and conductor, Roberto Luka, after choosing a site in Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza, one of the most prestigious wine regions in Argentina to produce high quality wines. The name "SOPHENIA" is combination of names - Sophia, his partner's daughter, and Eugenia, his own daughter.

The young and dynamic winemaking team at SOPHENIA is led by Julia Halupzcok. After working for a number of years at Alta Vista, O. Fournier, and in California, she joined SOPHENIA in 2016 and immediately found great success. Julia's wines show elegance with a modern style, reflecting the essence of this unique terroir. As Julia said in a Decanter Magazine interview "Oenology is like make-up: If there's too much it can be a disaster, but a little can enhance beauty".

This particular Malbec is a vegan-friendly example from the high-altitude region of Gualtallary, within Tupungato, at the northern part of the Uco Valley. The vineyards from Gualtallary are planted at the foot of the Andes, up to 1,600 metres (5,249 feet) above sea level, and the long, narrow region is noted for producing grapes with freshness and balance. Gualtallary also noted for its poor stony and alluvial soils interlaced with sand and limestone. This diverse combination leads to free-draining soils, thus stressing the vines to search ever deeper for water while also picking up minerality along the way. Gualtallary is in the process of becoming an official Geographical Indication (GI) due to its diverse climates and soils and is one of the most exciting wine regions in South America.

Tasting Note:

FINCA SOPHENIA ALTOSUR MALBEC 2018 - Vegan, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina (#13113) (XD) - $17.00
Estate grown at 1,200 metres (3,936 feet) above sea level on rocky soils of loose structure, this vegan-friendly Malbec is minimally oaked with 3 to 4 months in French and American oak barrels. The medium+ intensity nose has aromas of spicy mulberry and blackberry with stony mineral undertones, developing some nice smoky mineral aromas with air. It is medium-full bodied on the palate with nicely balanced flavours of blackberry, mulberry, and peppery spice, if a touch sour. Oak is firmly in the background. It has fresh acidity and dusty, textured tannins. Mineral notes come to the fore on the mid-palate, lingering through to the slightly chalky finish, with very good length. Nicely done. Recommended buy. Score: 88+ pts

Other wines from Finca Sophenia are available via their Agent - Sylvestre Wines & Spirits.

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Wakefield Jaraman Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (Australia) - Wine Review (Bottle 2)

Tonight's red wine review is this lovely Australian Cabernet Sauvignon that returned to LCBO VINTAGES on August 22nd.

Bill Taylor and his family have been crafting fine wines in Clare Valley for three generations, beginning in 1969. They carefull selected this site for its red-brown loam over limestone soils, also known as terra rossa, and the cool climate which they immediately recognized would grow excellent Cabernet Sauvignon. The three seahorse logo - one for each generations of the family - comes from the fossilized remains of seahorses they discovered on their land during excavations for the vineyard's dam. In the Southern Hemisphere, the family makes their wines under the Taylors label, but they sell their wines in the Northern Hemisphere, including here in Ontario, as Wakefield Wines.

The Jaraman collection of wines includes a Shiraz, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and this Cabernet Sauvignon, With the Jaraman range, the Taylor family searches for parcels of extraordinary fruit to craft wines that showcase their distinctive regional characteristics and style. The fruit for these wines are sourced from Australia's celebrated wine regions that are renowned for the particular variety. At the winery, the winemakers ensure that distinct regional characteristics are preserved and enhanced through any winemaking techniques, all the while having respect for the fruit.

I last enjoyed this same 2016 Wakefield Jaraman Cabernet Sauvignon when it came to LCBO VINTAGES in August of 2019 and recall that the tannins were a bit tight at the time. Let's see how this bottle is tasting now, a full 12 months after last year's tasting.

Tasting Note:

WAKEFIELD JARAMAN CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016 - Coonawarra & Clare Valley, South Australia (#142398) (D) - $24.95
100% Cabernet Sauvignon composed of 73% Coonawarra and 27% Clare Valley fruit. Screw cap. The medium-high intensity nose offers menthol, currant, and cassis with hints of leafy, dried herb aromas. It's full-bodied with minty cassis, ripe blackberry, and currant flavours accented with oak spice and just a touch of jamminess. It's well-balanced with fresh acidity while tannins have softened since last year, having a touch of chalky grip. Savoury chocolatey oak with currant and herbal notes linger on the long finish. Score: 89 pts

There are quite a few Wakefield Wines available at the LCBO, but can also be ordered via their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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September 19, 2020 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: Ontario

The upcoming September 19, 2020 LCBO VINTAGES Release is the annual mid-to-late September Release that features wines from Ontario, coinciding with harvest that occurs this time of year. Ontario is the only theme of the Release, and along with the other wines featured in this Release, these wines will all be on shelves across the province by this Saturday.

We begin with the seventeen wines featured as part of the Ontario theme, of which five are included among my top wine picks. Firstly, it was nice to see wines from each of the three major wine regions represented - Niagara, Prince Edward County, and Lake Erie North Shore, as well as the emerging wine regions of Mono (just north of Toronto) and the Ottawa Valley. From Niagara-on-the-Lake, there is a fine Vidal Icewine that always delivers pleasure year after year. From a winery located in Mono, but currently sourcing much of their grapes from Niagara because their own estate vines are still too young, there is a nice, medium-sweet Riesling. Also from Niagara is a Baco Noir from a winery that specializes in the grape. From Prince Edward Country there is a lovely Pinot Noir. And lastly, if you've always wanted to try Mead, a wine made with honey, try the barrel aged honey wine that was produced in Niagara.

From my red wine recommendations, the 2010 Rioja is a blend of 80% Tempranillo and 20% Garnacha. The rest are all single varietal wines - the Barolo is made with Nebbiolo, while the organic Brunello is made with pure Sangiovese. Other wines among my picks are wines made with well-known varietals that have strong roots within their respective country/region - Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz from Australia, Malbec from Argentina, Carmenère from Chile, and Pinot Noir from Oregon.

Among my white wine picks from the rest of the Release, all are single varietal wines. Beyond the three Chardonnay wines from the New World, there is also a Chenin Blanc from South Africa, a dry Riesling from Alsace, and a Malagousia from Greece. There is also a fine Torrontés from Argentina, as well as a Grüner Veltliner from Austria. For those that prefer wines with a little bit of sweetness, try the Vouvray from Loire that is made with Chenin Blanc.

Enjoy my wine recommendations from this Release! Cheers to sipping local!

Red Wine:

• WAKEFIELD ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017 - Clare Valley, South Australia (#744235) (XD) - $19.95  88 pts  wine review
• TERRAZAS DE LOS ANDES RESERVA MALBEC 2018 - Mendoza, Argentina (#29280) (XD) - $19.95
• MONTERRA SHIRAZ 2018 - McLaren Vale, South Australia (#477059) (XD) - $19.95
• SAN PEDRO 1865 SELECTED VINEYARDS CARMENÈRE 2018 - DO Maule Valley, Chile (#249201) (XD) - $19.95
• HENRY OF PELHAM SPECK FAMILY RESERVE BACO NOIR 2018 - VQA Ontario, Canada (#461699) (D) - $24.95
• CLOSSON CHASE CLOSSON CHASE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2017 - VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario, Canada (#145888) (XD) - $34.95
• SOKOL BLOSSER PINOT NOIR 2016 - Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA (#748434) (XD) - $39.95
• COL D'ORCIA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2015 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#306852) (XD) - $55.95  92 pts  wine review
• ROCCHE COSTAMAGNA ROCCHE DELL'ANNUNZIATA BAROLO 2015 - DOCG, Piedmont, Italy (#413484) (XD) - $59.95
• LA RIOJA ALTA VIÑA ARDANZA RESERVA 2010 - DOCa Rioja, Spain (#315531) (XD) - $59.95

White Wine:

• SIMONSIG CHENIN BLANC 2019 - WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#610907) (XD) - $13.95  88 pts  wine review
• PIERRE SPERRY COEUR DE GRANIT RIESLING 2018 - AC Alsace, France (#15523) (XD) - $16.95
• SANTA ANA LA MASCOTA CHARDONNAY 2018 - Cruz de Piedra, Maipú, Mendoza, Argentina (#126870) (XD) - $16.95  89 pts  wine review
• ADAMO LEPP DAVID'S VINEYARD RIESLING 2017 - VQA Niagara Lakeshore, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (#17203) (M) - $19.95
• SUTHERLAND CHARDONNAY 2018 - WO Elgin, South Africa (#146423) (XD) - $19.95
• BERNARD FOUQUET DOMAINE DES AUBUISIERES CUVÉE SILEX VOUVRAY 2018 - AC, Loire, France (#15615) (D) - $20.95
• PLANO MALAGOUSIA 2018 - PGI Macedonia, Greece (#15444) (XD) - $21.95
• WINZER KREMS RIED KREMSER WACHTBERG RESERVE GRÜNER VELTLINER 2018 - DAC Kremstal, Austria (#15704) (XD) - $24.95
• EL ESTECO 1945 OLD VINES TORRONTÉS 2019 - Calchaquí Valley, Argentina (#10695) (XD) - $24.95  FE
• STONESTREET CHARDONNAY 2016 - Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California, USA (#991380) (XD) - $49.95  FE

Sparkling Wine:

• CYGNUS ORGANIC BRUT NATURE CAVA - Vegan, Traditional Method, DO Penedès, Spain (#352856) (XD) - $17.95

Dessert Wine:

• REIF ESTATE VIDAL ICEWINE 2017 - VQA Niagara River, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (#544791) (S) (200 mL) - $24.95

Specialty Wine:

• ROSEWOOD MEAD ROYALE HONEY WINE 2018 - Barrel aged, Canada (#437319) (S) (500 mL) - $19.95

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Patrick Lesec Galets Blonds Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2017 (Rhône) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is this excellent Châteauneuf-du-Pape that arrived in LCBO VINTAGES on June 27 - and there are plenty of bottles available across Ontario so you can easily add this to your cellar.

It is produced by Patrick Lesec Selections, a highly esteemed negociant making delicious wines in the Southern Rhône Valley. Being a negociant, Patrick does not own any vineyards - his specialty is sourcing the best fruit from various winegrowers and blending the fruit to craft his special cuvées in a consistent style year after year. His top cuvées, like this Galets Blonds, are single-vineyard, estate-bottled wines. Patrick uses non-interventionist winemaking principles, carefully choosing the components to make the final cuvée. He prefers stainless steel elevage, with oak playing a minor role to add texture and complexity. The wine are unfined and unfiltered, and bottled by hand when possible.

When I enjoyed the 2012 Patrick Lesec Galets Blonds Châteauneuf-du-Pape five years go, it ended up being one of my favourite wines of the year. The 2017 vintage was very dry in Southern Rhône, resulting in lower yields. In Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the vintage lent itself to old vines with deep roots, such as those found in this predominantly old vines Grenache blend. Some of the best 2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines are the special cuvées such as this bottling. Let's see how it is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

PATRICK LESEC GALETS BLONDS CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2017 - AC, Rhône, France (#78089) (XD) - $60.95
A blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre from old, low-yielding vines that were grown on sparse, boulder-covered soils. Rich, medium-high intensity aromas deliver ripe blackberry, raspberry, and smoky crushed rocks with touches of pepper spice. It's medium-full to full-bodied on the palate with lovely aroma replays joined by some dried herb and gentle oak spice flavours. Good fruit concentration holds up well to the slightly warming alcohol, lifted by mouthwatering acidity. Fine-grained, slightly chalky tannins are nicely textured. Stony mineral, wood spice, and blackberry notes linger on the long finish, with excellent length. Exceptional! Score: 93 pts

Other fine wines from Patrick Lesec can be ordered via their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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