April 17, 2021 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: Sustainable + Piedmont

The major theme of the April 17, 2021 LCBO VINTAGES Release focuses on Sustainable Wines from around the world, while the mini-theme looks at wines from Piedmont. All of these wines, plus those from the rest of the Release should be on shelves across Ontario by Saturday.

We begin with the main theme on Sustainable Wines from around the world. Of the nineteen wines featured, four are included among my top wine picks. The concept of Sustainability is broken down into three areas of impact - in the vineyard, in the winery, and within the community. The Fumé Blanc from Niagara is an organic wine that consists of primarily Sauvignon Blanc aged in oak barrels (and concrete eggs), as well as a splash of Semillon. Villa Maria has many sustainability initiatives as it is a core value of this quality producer, and their Sauvignon Blanc from Wairau Valley is definitely a worthy buy. The last two wines that follow sustainability principles are the Rasteau that is a GSM blend consisting of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Mourvèdre, and the Gran Selezione Chianti Classico is a blend of 97% Sangiovese and 3% Abrusco.

From the feature on Piedmont wines, four of the nine wines listed are included among my top wine recommendations. While Piedmont is mostly known for their red wines, there are some fine white wines as well. After Moscato Bianco, the top still white wine grapes are Cortese and Arneis. In this Release, the wine from Gavi is made with Cortese, while the best-known examples of Arneis come from Roero. The king of red wine varieties from Piedmont is without a doubt Nebbiolo, but did you know that the Barbera grape is actually the region's most widely planted varietal? You can explore Barbera by Stefano Farina, as well as the relatively rare Grignolino varietal.

There are quite a few French red blends from the rest of the Release. The Bordeaux red is a blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, while the red from Southwest France consists of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and the local varietal Abourriou. From Rhône, the Châteauneuf-du-Pape consists of 50%  Grenache, 35%  Syrah, and 15% Mourvèdre, while the Rioja is a blend of 75% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacha, and 10% Graciano & Mazuelo (Carignan). Single varietal wines include a fine Beaujolais made with Gamay, as well as the maturing wine from Abruzzo that is made with Montepulciano.

Among my white wine recommendations, the only blend is the Greek wine that consists of 75% Assyrtiko, 15% Athiri, and 10% Aidani. For those that prefer slightly sweet wines, you'll want to pick-up the pair of Riesling wines from Niagara to compare and contrast.

Enjoy my wine recommendations from this Release! Cin cin!

Red Wine:

• STEFANO FARINA BARBERA D'ALBA 2018 - DOC, Piedmont, Italy (#10601) (XD) - $17.95
• GÉRARD BERTRAND GRENACHE/SYRAH/MOURVÈDRE 2018 - AP Corbières, Languedoc, France (#394288) (XD) - $17.95
• ACCORNERO BRICCO DEL BOSCO GRIGNOLINO MONFERRATO CASALESE 2019 - DOC, Piedmont, Italy (#426635) (XD) - $19.95
• DOMAINE DE CÔTES RÉMONT 2018 - AP Chénas, Beaujolais, France (#18368) (XD) - $20.95  90 pts  wine review
• DOMAINE DE BEYSSAC INITIAL 2016 - Unfined and unfiltered, AP Côtes du Marmandais, Southwest, France (#18367) (XD) - $20.95
• BAYLE-CARREAU CHÂTEAU LANDREAU 2016 - AC Côtes de Bourg, Bordeaux, France (#18535) (XD) - $20.95  90 pts  wine review
• CASTORANI AMORINO MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO 2013 - DOC, Abruzzo, Italy (#366732) (XD) - $24.95  89 pts  wine review
• DOMAINE DE L'ESPIGOUETTE PAS DE MEUNIER RASTEAU 2017 - AC, Rhône, France (#18797) (XD) - $24.95
• CHÂTEAU FORTIA CUVÉE DU BARON CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2017 - Sustainable, AC, Rhône, France (#959999) (XD) - $51.95
• BARONE RICASOLI CASTELLO DI BROLIO GRAN SELEZIONE CHIANTI CLASSICO 2016 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#942607) (XD) - $59.95
• R. LÓPEZ DE HEREDIA VIÑA TONDONIA RESERVA 2008 - DOCa Rioja, Spain (#356337) (XD) - $63.95

White Wine:

• TENUTA FRATELLI POVERO TERRE DEL CONTE ROERO ARNEIS 2019 - DOCG, Piedmont, Italy (#436915) (XD) - $17.95  89 pts  wine review
• LA GIUSTINIANA TERRE ANTICHE GAVI DI GAVI 2019 - DOCG, Piedmont, Italy (#17658) (XD) - $18.95
• RADFORD DALE VINUM CHENIN BLANC 2018 - WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#13338) (XD) - $18.95  90+ pts  wine review
• JULES TAYLOR SAUVIGNON BLANC 2019 - Sustainable, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#224428) (XD) - $19.95
• CAVE SPRING ESTATE RIESLING 2018 - VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#286377) (D) - $19.95
• CHARLES BAKER B-SIDE RIESLING 2018 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#523845) (D) - $21.95
• VILLA MARIA WAIRAU VALLEY RESERVE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2019 - Sustainable, Wairau Valley, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#536201) (XD) - $24.95  90+ pts  wine review
• NYKTERI SANTORINI 2018 - PDO, Greece (#18923) (XD) - $27.95  FE
• HIDDEN BENCH FUMÉ BLANC 2019 - Rosomel Vineyard, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#68825) (XD) - $29.95
• TESCH KRONE RIESLING TROCKEN 2018 - Qualitätswein, Nahe, Germany (#18253) (XD) - $34.95

Sparkling Wine:

• CAVE SPRING BLANC DE BLANCS BRUT SPARKLING - Traditional method, VQA Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#213983) (XD) - $29.95

Fortified:

• GRAHAM'S QUINTA DOS MALVEDOS 2009 - Bottled in 2011, DOP, Portugal (#18363) (S) - $59.95  FE

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Planeta Frappato Vittoria 2018 (Sicily) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a lovely red wine made with the rare Frappato varietal from Sicily that arrived at the LCBO recently as part of the April 3, 2021 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

With a heritage of seventeen generations, Planeta is one of Sicily's historic wine producers. The family has been involved with the course of agricultural evolution over five centuries in the complex land of Sicily, with an approach always inclined to openness and innovation. During the 1900's, Grandfather Vito led the path towards new solutions and new prospects. In Menfi, he transformed the small family winery into a large co-operative winery in a short period of time.

In 1985, they planted their first vines next to the fortress of Ulmo, eventually growing to 50 hectares of vines and created a wine in 1995 that opened doors to the whole world. This success led to further research of the indigenous varieties of Sicily. They travelled across the island, from Menfi to Vittoria to Noto to Etna, and finally to Capo Milazzowith with the idea of producing each wine in its own territory. In 1997, they planted their first vines at Vittoria, where this red wine is from. Today, two generations of the family - including brothers and sisters, children, nieces and nephews - work together with a vision of unity, a love for the land, and a desire to protect it by using a sustainable, long-term viticultural approach to winemaking.

Frappato is a red wine grape that is genetically close to Sangiovese and ten other Italian red wine varieties, suggesting that it is a cross between Sangiovese and another varietal. It is more commonly used in blends, can be found on its own as well. Frappato is primarily grown in Sicily, with the best expressions coming from the red sands of Vittoria (where this wine is from) in southern Sicily, not far from the sea.

The first vintage of this Frappato was 2013, and it hails from Planeta's Dorilli winery in Vittoria. This Frappato was cultivated from only a few hectares of their Mogli vineyard in the commune of Acate, within the province of Ragusa, that mainly consists of loose red sand with no stones, and a layer of tufa below that is important for the water balance of the vines. Being close to the sea, the vineyard is only 70 metres above sea level. Let's see how the lighter bodied Frappato is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

PLANETA FRAPPATO VITTORIA 2018 - DOC, Sicily, Italy (#508655) (XD) - $24.95
100% Frappato that was raised entirely in stainless steel vats has a pretty, pale ruby colour. The medium-high intensity nose offers lovely red cherry and strawberry aromas alongside gentle spice, floral, and smoky notes. It is light-to-medium bodied on the palate with impressive concentration and structure. More red cherry, strawberry and white pepper spice with savoury undertones on the flavour profile. It has fresh acidity and light tannins that have a pleasant textural grip. Smoky and red berry notes linger on the long, chalky, and very satisfying finish. Must try! Score: 91 pts

Other lovely wines from Planeta can be found at the LCBO, as well as through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Laura Hartwig Single Vineyard Carménère 2018 (Chile) - Wine Review

After enjoying the lovely 2017 Laura Hartwig Edición de Familia back in November, tonight's wine review is another fine offering from Laura Hartwig that arrived at the LCBO last weekend as part of the April 3rd LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Osvaldo Bisquertt purchased the property in 1928 to cultivate annual crops and raise cattle. In 1966, his daughter Laura Bisquert inherited the "Santa Laura" farm and further expanded the estate with her husband Alejandro Hartwig. In the 1970's, while the Hartwig family lived in Toronto and Montreal, Alejandro Hartwig (Sr.) took wine courses and developed a passion for wine, eventually deciding to establish a winery back in Chile as their active retirement project. In 1978, Laura Hartwig Premium Wines was borne when they planted their first vines in the Colchagua Valley. Today, Alejandro Hartwig Jr. has also joined the family project as winegrower.

This Single Vineyard Carménère is Laura Hartwig's top selling wine from the Colchagua Valley. It is crafted using grapes, which were planted in 2000, from the Block "Isla" at the Laura Hartwig Estate in Santa Cruz, the heart of Colchagua Valley. This site has clay loam soils on the surface with sand deposits located much deeper in the ground. The grapes were hand-harvested and sorted, then vinified in stainless steel tanks, followed by ageing in French oak barrels for 12 months. The 2018 vintage Chile was considered to be brilliant in terms of quality and quantity. Let's see how this Chilean Carménère is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LAURA HARTWIG SINGLE VINEYARD CARMÉNÈRE 2018 - DO Colchagua Valley, Chile (#213512) (XD) - $15.95
Aged in French oak barrels for 12 months, this 100% Carménère has a fragrant nose offering aromas of herbaceous and grilled red pepper notes joined by blackberry and touches of vanilla, chocolate, and walnut. On the medium-bodied palate it has vanilla-infused flavours of grilled red pepper, herbs, and black cherry. Acids are fresh and well-balanced, while the polished tannins have a fine-grained texture. Chocolatey oak, black cherry, and red pepper notes linger on the juicy, balanced finish, with very good length. Enjoy over the next 2-3 years. Score: 88 pts

While you might find a couple of other wines from Laura Hartwig at the LCBO, your best bet is to contact their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Rémy Ferbras Terre de Mistral Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2017 (France) - Wine Review

On this fine Friday, tonight's red wine review is a bright and lovely Côtes du Rhône-Villages that arrived at the LCBO last weekend as part of the April 3rd LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Rémy Ferbras was the first cellar master of Grandes Serres, a winery with deep roots in the Southern Rhône Valley. With the Rémy Ferbras range of wines, Grandes Serres pays tribute to the iconic figure of the winery who was a tireless advocate of the Rhône terroir and of its grape varieties, and always succeeded in expressing the full potential of the Rhône Valley wines. Through his work and tenacity, Rémy Ferbras played a large role towards the development and public recognition of Grandes Serres. The range of Rémy Ferbras wines are the result of strict selections, and precise vinification and ageing, just as Remy Ferbras would have preferred.

Rémy Ferbras produces a diverse array of wines from the Southern Rhône Valley's most popular appellations, and this particular bottling is from Plan de Dieu, one of the named villages of the Côtes du Rhône-Villages appellation. Plan de Dieu, which translates to "God's Plain", is located in the Southern Rhône Valley, just west of Gigondas, and covers an area of 1,060 hectares, most of which is planted to vineyards with only a few patches of woodland among the vineyards. The climate in this area is Mediterranean and influenced by the Mistral winds, while the vines are primarily grown on a bed of red clay and smooth-rolled cobbles. The leading grape varieties of Plan de Dieu are Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, all found in this wine, and pick up aromas of the surrounding garrigue scrublands.

Although Plan de Dieu is linked to viticulture going back nearly 700 years, it was only awarded Côtes du Rhône-Villages with geographical name status for red wines in 2005. In order to give the appellation an identity, winegrowers designed a special bottle that is embossed with the village name and the vineyard's coat of arms - a bunch of grapes topped with an halo. Let's see how this latest vintage is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

RÉMY FERBRAS TERRE DE MISTRAL PLAN DE DIEU CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES 2017 - AP, France (#538009) (XD) - $16.95
This blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, and Mourvèdre was grown on soils mostly composed of limestone pebbles and brown clay, with each grape vinified separately prior to blending and bottling. The medium-high intensity nose is elegant and composed with red fruited, raspberry, cherry, and spices with underlying savoury tones flecked with stony minerals. It's full-bodied with very good fruit concentration on the spicy palate with more red fruit, cherry, and raspberry flavours balanced with stony and savoury notes. Acids are fresh, while the fine-grained tannins have some structure. Some chalky textured grip on the long, spicy, stony, and savoury finish. Enjoy this great buy over the next 3-5 years. Score: 90 pts

Other lovely wines from Rémy Ferbras can be found at the LCBO (there is a Châteauneuf-du-Pape), while the rest of the portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.

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M. Chapoutier Bila-Haut Occultum Lapidem 2017 (Roussillon) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is this excellent red blend from the village of Latour-de-France within the Côtes du Roussillon-Villages appellation that returned to the LCBO over the weekend as part of the April 3rd LCBO VINTAGES Release.

The roots of M. Chapoutier go back to 1808 when Calvet et Compagnie was created in the Rue de l’Hermitage in Tain, northern Rhône. Marius Chapoutier joined the company in 1897 and had complete control of the winery by the 1920's. Chapoutier winery was then passed down through the generations, eventually landing in the hands of world renowned winemaker Michel Chapoutier in 1990. With a passion for the environment and drive for innovation, Michel began applying biodynamic cultivation techniques and expanded the company in the year 2000 to produce wines from Roussillon.

Many wines encompass the fabulous portfolio of M. Chapoutier, with this particular wine coming from Domaine de Bila-Haut in Roussillon. This domain was setup by Michel in the village of Latour de France, in the hilly northern third of Roussillon, near Fitou and Corbieres, in the South of France. The vines of Bila-Haut and Occultum Lapidem were the first expressions of this terroir. Latour de France is situated on a bend in the Agly river - which winds it way to the Mediterranean Sea - and its climate is Mediterranean with long, hot summers, and relatively mild winters, while experiencing more sunshine over the course of a year than any other part of France.

This red wine is a blend of predominantly Syrah and Grenache, plus some Carignan, all of which were grown in a vineyard located on gneiss and schistous soils from the Devonian Period (approx. 400 million ago) and limestone from Kimmeridgian Period (approximately 150 million years ago). The grapes were hand-picked and matured entirely in concrete tanks.

I've had the pleasure of tasting previous vintages of this lovely wine and it has always been excellent. Although the 2017 vintage had reduced yields, the fruit during harvest was very good, thus allowing quality producers such as M. Chapoutier to craft excellent wines such as this.

Tasting Note:

M. CHAPOUTIER BILA-HAUT OCCULTUM LAPIDEM 2017 - AP Côtes du Roussillon-Villages Latour-de-France (#643239) (XD) - $26.95
Blend of mainly Syrah and Grenache, plus some Carignan, all aged in concrete tanks. The highly aromatic nose is fresh and complex with lovely garrigue, Provençal herb, black pepper spice, black cherry, dark berry, and schisty mineral notes. It's medium-full bodied on the palate with fresh, succulent acids and savoury, stony, black cherry, and black pepper spice flavours with touches of garrigue and herb. Well-balanced with refined tannins that have a nice, slightly chalky textured grip. Excellent length on the stony finish. Recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

Other lovely wines from M. Chapoutier can be found at the LCBO, as well as through their Agent - Philippe Dandurand Wines Ltd.

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Lealtanza Reserva 2015 (Rioja) - Wine Review (Apr. 2021)

For tonight's wine review, I look at this lovely, vegan-friendly Rioja from Spain that arrived at the LCBO over the weekend as part of the April 3, 2021 LCBO VINTAGES Release. I last enjoyed the 2015 Lealtanza Reserva back in August when it arrived in VINTAGES earlier that month and am delighted to see it return to shelves across Ontario.

This red wine is crafted by Bodegas Altanza, a wine producer that was founded in 1998 with a name that is a synonym of quality and dedicated to producing top Reserva wines. Bodegas Altanza is located in Fuenmayor, Rioja Alta, and known for combining tradition with modernity to craft the best quality wines at competitive prices. The estate owns 220 hectares of vineyards and represents approximately 60% of their needs, with the rest sourced from winegrowers using a strict selection process.

All of their red wines are crafted using 100% Tempranillo, the "queen" of Rioja autochthonous varieties, and the most popular red varietal in Spain. Altanza's wines are fermented with natural yeasts, and while most wines from Rioja are aged in American oak barrels, Altanza chooses to age all of their wines primarily in French oak barrels, including the use of 22,000 Litre Allier vats.

Back in August, I suggested that this fine red wine could be enjoyed over the next 4-5 years, so let's see how it has evolved since that time.

Tasting Note:

LEALTANZA RESERVA 2015 - Vegan, DOCa Rioja, Spain (#208223) (XD) - $22.95
100% Tempranillo that was aged for 18 months in French barrels, followed by 3 months in 22,000 Litre French oak vats. The medium-high intensity nose is pleasantly savoury and mature in profile with sweet spice, sandalwood, and earthy aromas alongside dried berry, cherry, and touches of dried floral. It's medium+ bodied on the savoury palate with more earthy, sandalwood, sweet spice, and some dried cherry and floral flavours. Acids are well-balanced, while the fine-grained tannins have a subtle textured grip. Well-balanced throughout with lovely savoury, sandalwood, and dried cherry notes lingering on the long, slightly chalky finish. Enjoy this fine, maturing Rioja over the next 3-4 years. Score: 90 pts

Other lovely wines from Bodegas Altanza can be ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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LAVAU Vacqueyras 2017 (Rhône) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is the latest vintage of this lovely red wine from the Southern Rhône Valley cru of Vacqueyras that arrived at the LCBO today as part of the April 3, 2021 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Maison LAVAU was founded in the Rhône Valley in 1964 by the Lavau family that had been involved in winemaking from Bordeaux to Tunisia for several generations. Seduced by the richness and quality of the Provencal soils, the Lavau family decided to settle in the Rhône Valley. Today, Maison LAVAU continues to be managed by brothers Benoit and Frédéric Lavau, and they own three cellars in the Southern Rhône Valley where they vinify all of their wines. In addition to owning wine estates covering more than 180 hectares of vines across the Rhône Valley, the Lavau family has also formed long-running partnerships with more than 350 growers, thus allowing Maison LAVAU to select the best terroir and grapes in order to craft top quality wines.

I last enjoyed the 2014 LAVAU Vacqueyras back in June 2018 and am surprised that this red wine did not come back to the LCBO for a couple of years. The 2017 vintage in the Southern Rhone can be described as inconsistent with heavy rains in May leading to reduced yields of the ever-sensitive Grenache. However, there was almost no rain from the end of June and it was very hot throughout the rest of the growing season, resulting in a very good quality vintage that produced structured, age-worthy wines. The reduced yields of Grenache apparently had no effect on this wine is it remains a blend of 50% Grenache, 40% Syrah, and 10% Mourvédre. The vines have an average age of 35+ years old and were grown on west-facing parcels on the plain of Vacqueyras with good draining alluvial and sandy soils. Let's see how the 2017 is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LAVAU VACQUEYRAS 2017 - AC, Rhône, France (#104927) (XD) - $26.95
A blend of 50% Grenache, 40% Syrah, and 10% Mourvédre that was aged in a combination of stainless steel vats and used barrels. The medium-high intensity nose has a savoury core surrounded by complex aromas of black pepper, dark berry, spice, and plum notes. The full-ish bodied palate has lovely flavours of red cherry, raspberry, spice with savoury undertones and a hint of orange. It has well-balanced acidity and refined, well-knit tannins with a touch of chalky grip. Really well-balanced throughout with more savoury and stony flavours with spice and a tinge of orange on the long finish. Enjoy this lovely Vacqueyras over the next 5+ years. Score: 91 pts

Other lovely wines from Maison Lavau can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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