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red wine review is a lovely Côtes du Rhône-Villages from the Plan de Dieu appellation that arrived at the LCBO last month in the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.
Like the 2018 Rémy Ferbras Terre de Mistral Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages I enjoyed a couple of years ago, this red wine is produced by Rémy Ferbras, a winery with deep roots in the Southern Rhone Valley, at the heart of the prestigious Châteauneuf-du-Pape vineyards. Owned by Grandes Serres winery, they pay tribute to Rémy Ferbras, its very first cellar master. Rémy Ferbras was an iconic figure of the winery and a tireless advocate of the Rhône terroir and its grape varieties. He succeeded in expressing the full potential of Rhône Valley wines and, through his work and tenacity, contributed greatly to the development and public recognition of Grandes Serres. The Rémy Ferbras range of wines are the result of strict selections, precise vinification, and ageing, methodologies he would've used, to produce wines that are rich, elegant, complex, and flavourful.
This red wine is a blend of four grapes that were grown in the Plan de Dieu appellation, in the heart of the Southern Rhône Valley. Plan de Dieu is spread across four villages and extends to the foothills of the Dentelles de Montmirail. In the Middle Ages, the sisters of Prébayon Abbey tended to these lands, which were covered with a vast garrigue forest rife with brigands and other robbers who ambushed travellers. Thus, when travelling in the region, it is best to put yourself in God's hands! Vine cultivation had been practiced in the region since at least 1326, but was abandoned for many years until it was revived during the 1920s. The terroir of this plateau is stony and arid, with soils composed of mainly limestone chippings and brown clay, conditions loved by Grenache.
A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, and Mourvèdre, the grapes for this red wine were picked at optimum harvest maturity. Each grape was vinified separately using traditional techniques for each grape variety. It underwent alcoholic fermentation between 26-28°C, with two weeks of maceration. After undergoing malolactic fermentation, the individual wines were blended and bottled.
The 2022 growing season in the Southern Rhône Valley was marked by intense heat and drought. The year began with a dry winter and very little rain, followed by a spring that rapidly warmed up, although there was a fleeting cold snap in April. Temperatures continued to rise throughout spring, leading to a successful budburst and flowering. May was abnormally hot, while June rains brought some relief. Summer brought intense heat and drought, with some vines struggling, while rot and disease were mostly kept at bay. Some humidity in August helped revive some of the vines. From a very good vintage that was more suitable for red wines, particularly Grenache and Syrah, let's see how this 2022 Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages red wine is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
RÉMY FERBRAS PLAN DE DIEU CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES 2022 - AP, France (#538009) (XD) - $17.95 This blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, and Mourvèdre has a fragrant, open, and medium-high intensity nose that offers ripe, lush, and complex aromas of black raspberry, scorched earth, smoky mineral, red plum, black cherry, blackberry, and spice notes. On the crisp, dry, medium+ bodied palate, it has lovely, ripe black raspberry, red plum, cherry, peppery spice, red licorice, and mineral flavours. It has juicy, succulent acidity, and supple, lightly chalky tannins with good structure. Gently tangy on the mid-palate, while lovely smoky mineral and touches of spice notes linger on the long, savoury finish. Absolutely delicious and a highly recommended buy to enjoy over the next 3-4 years. Score: 89 pts
rosé wine review is a delicious, vegan-friendly dry rosé wine from Languedoc that arrived at the LCBO a couple of weeks ago in the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.
It is produced by Bijou Wines, a wine producer based in the heart of the South of France. Originally established in the Languedoc in 2012, Bijou Wines has since expanded into Provence and specializes in the production of rosé wines.
With a talented team of growers and winemakers, Bijou's stance has always been to produce best-in-class wines. Bijou sources their grapes from unique, lesser-known, but authentic terroirs such as Coteaux de Béziers, Coteaux Varois en Provence, and Haute Vallee de l'Aude in Limoux. Framed as "affordable luxury", Bijou wines are comprised of the very best expressions of old and low-yielding Mediterranean grape varieties, and recognized around the world by critics as authentic and delicious, with beautiful aromas and flavours, and good structure to allow the wines to be enjoyed with or without food.
At Bijou, sustainability is always at the top of mind. The vision is to provide quality wine sustainably by using greener approaches from vineyard to packaging. In 2019, their growers in Coteaux de Béziers (where this wine is from) obtained the HVE Level 3 certification. Today, more than 95% of Bijou's wines are sustainably farmed as HVE3 and organic certified. With climate change and weather patterns changing, adapting viticulture is paramount. As such, Bijou began using the sustainable Caladoc grape varietal in their blends starting in 2019. Caladoc is a crossing of Grenache and Malbec that is resistant to intense heat and drought. In the realm of packaging, Bijou uses lightweight bottles, as well as an extraordinary range of sustainable and environmentally-friendly 1.5 L pouches that significantly lowers their carbon footprint.
This particular rosé is from Bijou's Sophie Valrose line of wines, which also includes a white and red. The "Le Bijou de Sophie Valrose" range is named after a lady who worked in the vineyards of Languedoc during the late 19th century and became a local hero. In that era, it was largely women who worked in the vineyards to prune and harvest the vines, while often mistreated, overworked and underpaid. Not pleased with the situation, Sophie fought for women's rights and drastically improved the working conditions for her fellow women who also worked in the vineyards. As a tribute to Sophie and her legacy, the back label of every bottle in this range shares her story. Each wine in this range is crafted using grapes sourced from handpicked bush vines, just like those that Sophie would have harvested herself many years ago.
The rosé is a blend of 45% Cinsault, 40% Grenache, 10% Caladoc, and 5% Syrah from 25-50 year-old well-trellised and low yielding bush vines. The grapes were grown on cool, alluvial clay soils within the Coteaux de Béziers appellation of Languedoc. After harvesting the grapes early in the morning, when temperatures are cooler, in order to preserve fresh acidity and balanced sugar levels, the grapes are destemmed and direct-pressed, with the Syrah undergoing a light maceration on its skins. The four grapes separately underwent a long and cool fermentation, and were then blended together, clarified, and stabilized prior to bottling. From a growing season that was a challenging year of extremes, let's see how this 2023 rosé from Languedoc is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
LE BIJOU DE SOPHIE VALROSE ROSÉ 2023 - Vegan, IGP Coteaux de Béziers, Languedoc, France (#20012) (XD) - $17.95 Enclosed by screw cap and pours a pale copper-pink colour. This blend of 45% Cinsault, 40% Grenache, 10% Caladoc, and 5% Syrah has a medium+ intensity nose that delivers ripe Mandarin orange, red apple, grapefruit, citrus, and melon aromas with honeyed peach overtones. It has good weight on the medium+ to medium-full bodied and dry palate with refreshing acidity and flavours of citrus, grapefruit, red apple, strawberry, red berry, plus touches of peppery spice. It has a slightly creamy mouthfeel on the mid-palate, while hints of oyster shell and saline mineral notes appear on the citrusy, lengthy, and very juicy finish. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts
rosé wine review is a lovely, organic Tavel from Rhône that is a brand-new arrival at the LCBO and landed on shelves across Ontario in last weekend's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on .
It is produced by the Château de Manissy, an historic winery situated in the Tavel appellation of the southern Rhône Valley in France. The Château has a long history dating back to the 17th century. In more recent history, the Château and its lands were bequeathed to the Missionary Brothers of the Holy Family after the First World War. Soon thereafter, the Brothers planted their first vines and released their first Tavel wines for use at Mass and general consumption. The motto of the estate was introduced as "Auspice Clara Manissy Stella" – "Under the Protection of the Bright Star of Manissy", and continues to be used today, which also led to the estate's name - Château de Manissy.
Even though the brothers lived at the Château all those years (and continue to do so today), as they grew older they decided that they needed someone new to manage the vineyards. As such, in 2003, the young Tavel winemaker Florian André arrived at the estate and wholeheartedly carried out the brothers' work. Florian comes from 7 generations of Tavel winegrowers who know and love their terroir. With great respect for the vine and wine, Florian began converting all the vineyards to organic in 2009, followed by the progression to biodynamic agriculture. After joining Château de Manissy, Florian also created a new range of wines - one of which is the Domaine Terre Davau line.
Today, all Château de Manissy's vineyards, which are spread over 60 hectares across the appellations of Tavel, Lirac, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and Cotes du Rhône, are farmed biodynamically. The soils in these vineyards are sandy clay and topped with either limestone fragments or "galets roulés", Rhône Valley's classic rounded pudding-stones. The vines get plenty of Mediterranean sunshine and are swept by Mistral wind, the ideal conditions for vinegrowing which dry up excess moisture in the soil and helps prevent disease, resulting in a healthy vineyard full of healthy grapes.
Domaine Terre Davau is Château de Manissy's winegrowing estate in the village of Roque sur Cèz (considered officially as one of the most beautiful villages in France), in the northeast of the department of Gard, about 40 km northwest of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and is a true gem of the Rhône Valley. The estate of Domaine Terre Davau is named after a savoury herb and medicinal plant, locally once known as "davau", which grows freely in the area. The domaine's historic vineyards are situated on south-facing terraces, ascending a gentle slope, and have been in the hands of Florian's mother's side of the family for six generations. The grapes of Domaine Terre Davau are vinified at Château de Manissy's site in Tavel.
This Tavel Rosé is crafted using a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Clairette, and Cinsault from 40 to 50-year-old vines that were grown on a small, 13-hectare parcel that has pudding stones over sand and blue clay soil. The grapes were hand harvested, and upon arriving at the winery they were destemmed, crushed, and cold-soaked for 12–24 hours prior to pressing. It underwent alcoholic fermentation by native yeasts at low temperatures for about 15 days, without malolactic fermentation, and was aged in stainless steel tanks prior to bottling.
From a promising vintage across the southern Rhône Valley, let's see how this 2023 Tavel Rosé is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
DOMAINE TERRE DAVAU TAVEL ROSÉ 2023 - AC, Rhône, France (#37680) (XD) - $19.95 This organic rosé is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Clairette, and Cinsault. It has a hint of reduction that gives way to reveal a medium-high intensity nose of stony minerals and a red berry medley of strawberry, pomegranate, raspberry, and currant aromas, as well as some dried herbs and white pepper spice. On the dry, flavourful, medium+ to medium-full bodied palate it has lovely red berry, currant, pomegranate, strawberry, and cherry flavours, plus savoury stony minerals, dried herb, and peppery spice replays Slightly creamy mouthfeel with crisp, juicy acidity on the well-structured palate. Red berry, currant, spice, and mineral notes linger on the long, crisp, dry, and gently chalky finish. Should be even better in a year or two. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts
Other lovely wines by Château de Manissy can be ordered through their Agent - Rare Earth Wines.
It is produced by Château Maucoil, an historic property that is situated in an area of Châteauneuf-du-Pape that has been occupied since Roman times when they set up a base for Caesar's legions. The Château Maucoil estate and castle was built in 1624 and inherited by Joseph de La Pise, Lord of Maucoil and archivist of the House of Orange-Nassau (the Dutch royal family). Winegrowing has been an intrinsic part of the property since the 17th century, with Château Maucoil possessing some of Châteauneuf-du-Pape's oldest vines, some of which are over 100 years old.
Château Maucoil has changed hands many times over the years, with a series of illustrious families taking over the reins to develop the estate and establish its reputation. Most recently, in late 2022, Château Maucoil was acquired by Bernard Duseigneur from Groupe Maucoil Lavau, which was owned jointly by the (65%) Lavau and (35%) Bonnet families.
Today, Château Maucoil has 45 hectares of vines in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation, all of which have been tended to organically since 2011. With the estate's privileged situation and unique terroir, the vines are allowed to grow at pace with care, precision, and patience. The soils are worked in the traditional method, without any chemical weed killers, while preferring the use of ancient methods such as furrowing, forming mounds, and ploughing. The vineyards are tended to with maximum respect for the people and the environment.
This cuvée marks a return to the traditions of Châteauneuf-du-Pape by using the original 13 grape varieties that were permitted within the AOC (in 2009 the list of permitted grape varieties was expanded). It is crafted with 50% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 12% Mourvèdre, 8% Cinsault, Clairette, 5% Bourboulenc, Vaccarèse, Muscardin, Counoise, Terret, Roussanne, Picpoul, and Picardan. All the grapes were hand-harvested from a plot of old vines that were planted on sand and large rounded stones. After meticulously sorting the grapes, it was vinified using traditional methods and represents a return to the origins of winemaking by co-fermenting the grapes and ageing for 18 months in larger demi-muids. It was then aged for several years in bottle prior to release.
The 2020 growing season in the Southern Rhône began with a mild winter, followed by a hot and dry summer, with slightly cooler nights, which led to wines with good freshness and balance. Conditions during harvest were ideal, resulting in a stress-free vintage with solid yields. Since 2020 lacked lengthier periods of extreme heat, Grenache took its time to ripen. Fortunately, some light rain arrived towards the end of September, and by early October all Grenache grapes were harvested. There is some variance in the quality of wines from 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but overall, the wines are harmonious, fresh, balanced, and engaging, with more delicate tannins and lower alcohol levels, and offer immediate drinkability.
It is also interesting that the 2016 I enjoyed in November 2020 retailed for $86, while this vintage is priced at more than 25% less, an unusual surprise in these highly inflationary times, although the ownership change may have been a factor. Let's see how this organic 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
CHÂTEAU MAUCOIL PRIVILÈGE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2020 - AC, Rhône, France (#16210) (XD) - $62.95 Certified organic and a blend of 50% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 12% Mourvèdre, 8% Cinsault, Clairette, 5% Bourboulenc, Vaccarèse, Muscardin, Counoise, Terret, Roussanne, Picpoul, and Picardan. The highly aromatic nose is deep and complex with aromas of ripe, dark red & black fruits, black cherry, black raspberry, blackberry, stony mineral, garrigue, white pepper spice, kirsch, and smoke. On the dry, medium-full to full-bodied palate it is ripe, harmonious, gently spicy, and warming, but within balance, with lovely savoury, stony, black-blue fruits, peppery spice, garrigue, and meaty flavours with touches of violet. Acids are crisp, juicy, and succulent, while the ripe tannins are smooth and refined with good structure. Stony, smoky, meaty, and peppery spice notes linger on the finish, with excellent length. Provides immense pleasure now, and will continue to do so over the next 10+ years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 94 pts
With many decades in the hospitality industry worldwide, the Vanderpump family developed an appreciation for wines of outstanding quality. After living in the South of France for many years, rosé became a passion for the family, inspiring them to create Vanderpump Wines. In 2017, the family created their own rosé in the classic Provence style and launched their first wine - the Vanderpump Rosé - using grapes from the sun-drenched region of Côtes de Provence.
Now in its fifth vintage, the 2020 Vanderpump Rosé is comprised of Cinsault, Grenache, and Syrah that was sourced from the gorgeous vineyards of the Côtes de Provence AOP, France. More specifically, the grapes come from the interior Valley of Provence and Sainte Victoire, where there is plentiful sunshine and frequent dry, cool mistral winds blow in from the north. The vineyard soils are primarily clay, limestone pebbles and sand, and the hillsides are covered with wild lavender, rosemary and thyme. Crafted in the classical, dry Provencal rosé style, the wine has minimal skin contact to produce a pretty, pale peach colour. Let's see how this dry rosé is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
VANDERPUMP ROSÉ 2020 - AC Côtes de Provence, France (#14808) (XD) - $29.95 This blend of Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah has a fresh, medium to medium-high intensity nose that delivers dry aromas of grapefruit, citrus, and stone fruits with underlying red currant, minerals, and herbs. The full palate is dry with a honeyed flavour profile of peach, strawberry, grapefruit, citrus, red currant, and spice. It has fresh, lively acidity, while leesy minerals, strawberry, and citrus with a twist of honey linger on the dry, crisp finish, with very good length. Score: 89 pts
All of the wines from the Vanderpump portfolio are available at the LCBO, as well as through their Agent - Dionysus Wines & Spirits.
The 2019 La Cadiérenne Cuvée Grande Tradition Bandol Rosé that I enjoyed last summer was one of my favourite rosés of the year. For wine review, I am delighted to try the new vintage of this lovely dry rosé from Bandol that arrived at the LCBO recently as part of the LCBO VINTAGES Release. It is pictured on the cover of the VINTAGES magazine, as well as featured in the theme about Mediterranean wines.
The co-operative Les Vignerons de La Cadiérenne was formed in 1929 by 37 winegrowers. Today, it is comprised of nearly 300 winegrowers who cultivate approximately 600 hectares of mostly hillside vines surrounding the villages, and is the largest and most important cellar in western Var. Members of the co-operative produce wines that respect nature and the environment. All of the fruit is manually harvested, and members stay in contact with their fruit until bottling. Not only does La Cadiérenne produce AOP Côtes de Provence and Pays du Var (Protected Geographical Indication) wines, but they are also the largest producer of AOP Bandol wines.
The previous vintage was nearly an equal split of Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Cinsault, led slightly by Mourvèdre, while this vintage is predominantly Grenache (50%), and the rest equal parts Cinsault and Mourvèdre, all grown on clay-limestone and marl soils. At the winery, the grapes were direct pressed and each grape variety was vinified separately, while fermentation was carried out at low temperatures in order to preserve the fruity aromas and colour. I very much enjoyed the 2019, let's see how the 2020 Bandol Rosé is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
LA CADIÉRENNE CUVÉE GRANDE TRADITION BANDOL ROSÉ 2020 - AC, Provence, France (#119453) (XD) - $24.95 Blend of 50% Grenache, 25% Cinsault, and 25% Mourvèdre. The fresh, medium-high to highly aromatic nose has pretty aromas of ripe peach, melon, floral, citrus, blood orange, and grapefruit with underlying herbal notes. It has fresh acidity and a fine, slightly chalky texture on the medium-full bodied, fleshy palate with spicy aroma replays. There's a tinge of honey on the dry flavour profile, tapering to herbal, seaspray, and oyster shell minerality on the long, crisp, and dry finish. Love the complex array of flavours. Highly recommended buy. Score: 91+ pts
Other lovely wines from Les Vignerons de La Cadiérenne can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.
As we look forward to bright and sunny weather, wine review is a bright and lovely rosé from the southern Rhône Valley Cru of Tavel that came to the LCBO as part of the most recent LCBO VINTAGES Release on .
Perennially one of my favourite Tavel wines, this rosé takes me back to my visit to the historic Château d'Aquéria nearly three years ago. The fascinating story of Château d'Aquéria begins in 1595 when Louis Joseph d'Aqueria purchased the area of Tavel known as "Puy Sablonneux" from the monks at the Abbey in Villeneuve les Avignon. On prime vine-growing lands, his son, Robert d'Aqueria, built a home that was transformed in the 18th century into the Château that stands today. Château d'Aquéria has been owned by many families since that time, while maintaining winegrowing activities.
In 1919, Jean Olivier purchased the estate, which was then managed by his son-in-law, Paul de Bez, beginning in 1943. Today, his grandsons, Bruno and Vincent de Bez, run the estate using environmentally-friendly and sustainable agricultural principles. The climate at Château d'Aquéria is quintessentially Mediterreanean with low rainfall, plenty of sunshine, and exposure to the Mistral winds. Situated in Tavel, the distinct soils around the Château are light and sandy-clayey, and when combined with the climate are ideal for the production of the estate's great rosé wines that are both fruity and complex. Let's see how the lovely 2020 Tavel is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
CHÂTEAU D'AQUÉRIA TAVEL 2020 - AC, Rhône, France (#319368) (XD) - $24.95 A blend of 45% Grenache, 20% Clairette, 15% Cinsault, 8% Mourvèdre, 6% Syrah, 4% Bourboulenc, and 2% Picpoul grown on sandy-clayey hillsides. Pretty, deep red colour in classic Tavel style. Medium-high to highly aromatic nose is bright, ripe, and sunny with lovely aromas of strawberry, raspberry, and cherry joined by white pepper spice, mineral, and herbal nuances. The full-bodied palate is ripe and dry with lovely aromas replays, plus lavender and a tinge of honey on the flavour profile supported by fresh, vibrant, and citrusy acidity. It has a nicely textured, slightly chalky mouthfeel, while mineral notes linger on the long, balanced, and crisp finish. One of the best vintages ever? Highly recommended buy. Score: 91 pts
There's another Tavel by Aquéria available at the LCBO, while other lovely wines from this producer can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.
On this fine Friday, red wine review is a bright and lovely Côtes du Rhône-Villages that arrived at the LCBO last weekend as part of the LCBO VINTAGES Release.
Rémy Ferbras was the first cellar master of Grandes Serres, a winery with deep roots in the Southern Rhône Valley. With the Rémy Ferbras range of wines, Grandes Serres pays tribute to the iconic figure of the winery who was a tireless advocate of the Rhône terroir and of its grape varieties, and always succeeded in expressing the full potential of the Rhône Valley wines. Through his work and tenacity, Rémy Ferbras played a large role towards the development and public recognition of Grandes Serres. The range of Rémy Ferbras wines are the result of strict selections, and precise vinification and ageing, just as Remy Ferbras would have preferred.
Rémy Ferbras produces a diverse array of wines from the Southern Rhône Valley's most popular appellations, and this particular bottling is from Plan de Dieu, one of the named villages of the Côtes du Rhône-Villages appellation. Plan de Dieu, which translates to "God's Plain", is located in the Southern Rhône Valley, just west of Gigondas, and covers an area of 1,060 hectares, most of which is planted to vineyards with only a few patches of woodland among the vineyards. The climate in this area is Mediterranean and influenced by the Mistral winds, while the vines are primarily grown on a bed of red clay and smooth-rolled cobbles. The leading grape varieties of Plan de Dieu are Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, all found in this wine, and pick up aromas of the surrounding garrigue scrublands.
Although Plan de Dieu is linked to viticulture going back nearly 700 years, it was only awarded Côtes du Rhône-Villages with geographical name status for red wines in 2005. In order to give the appellation an identity, winegrowers designed a special bottle that is embossed with the village name and the vineyard's coat of arms - a bunch of grapes topped with an halo. Let's see how this latest vintage is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
RÉMY FERBRAS TERRE DE MISTRAL PLAN DE DIEU CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES 2017 - AP, France (#538009) (XD) - $16.95 This blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, and Mourvèdre was grown on soils mostly composed of limestone pebbles and brown clay, with each grape vinified separately prior to blending and bottling. The medium-high intensity nose is elegant and composed with red fruited, raspberry, cherry, and spices with underlying savoury tones flecked with stony minerals. It's full-bodied with very good fruit concentration on the spicy palate with more red fruit, cherry, and raspberry flavours balanced with stony and savoury notes. Acids are fresh, while the fine-grained tannins have some structure. Some chalky textured grip on the long, spicy, stony, and savoury finish. Enjoy this great buy over the next 3-5 years. Score: 90 pts
Other lovely wines from Rémy Ferbras can be found at the LCBO (there is a Châteauneuf-du-Pape), while the rest of the portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.
Château Maucoil is an historic property located in an area in Châteauneuf-du-Pape that has been occupied since the time of the Romans. The Château Maucoil estate and castle was built in 1624, and winegrowing gained prominence some time thereafter when Joseph de La Pise, Lord of Maucoil and archivist of the House of Orange-Nassau (the Dutch royal family) inherited the property. Château Maucoil has changed hands many times over the years, with each family helping establish the estate's reputation for producing quality wines.
The Arnaud family, with its deep roots and winegrowing experience in Châteauneuf-du-Pape spanning several generations, acquired Château Maucoil in 1995. In 2009, Bénédicte, the youngest daughter of the Arnaud family, along with her husband Charles Bonnet took over the property. In 2013, they merged with the Lavau family and today they run the estate together.
This Châteauneuf-du-Pape was crafted from the Domaine's oldest vines which average 70 years old. Thirteen varieties are planted at the Domaine and six are included in this Châteauneuf-du-Pape - approximately 50% Grenache, smaller amounts of Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Cinsault, as well as 5% of white varietals Clairette and Bourboulenc. The grapes are hand-harvested and individually sorted before going to vat. The grapes are fermented together before going into either 228 L or 600 L barrels that are either new or used for one vintage, and then aged for 12 to 18 months. The wine is then aged for several years in bottle prior to release. Let's see how this Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which hails from the classic 2016 Southern Rhône vintage, is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
CHÂTEAU MAUCOIL PRIVILÈGE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2016 - AC, Rhône, France (#16210) (XD) - $85.95 A blend of approx. 50% Grenache, plus Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Cinsault, as well as 5% of white varietals Clairette and Bourboulenc grown on sandy, pebbly soils, with vines averaging 70 years old. The rich, highly aromatic nose is very complex with lovely notes of raspberry, blackberry, stony & smoky mineral, peppery spices, and violets. It's full-bodied and concentrated on the palate with lovely aroma replays plus some garrigue notes adding further complexity. It has juicy acidity and a touch of warmth on the mid-palate, but nicely balanced overall. Firm tannins are grainy and textured. Savoury, stony mineral notes linger on the finish, with excellent length. Approachable now, but will be better in 5 years and enjoy into the mid-2030s. Gorgeous! Score: 94 pts
Other fine wines from Château Maucoil can be ordered via their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.
wine review is this excellent Bandol Rosé that arrived in LCBO VINTAGES on . This rose has improved in quality every time I've tasted it, including the excellent 2018 La Cadiérenne Cuvée Grande Tradition Bandol Rosé that I enjoyed last summer, so I would fully expect the 2019 to be just as outstanding. Provence experienced some extreme weather conditions again, leading to slightly lower yields in 2019, but vintage quality was excellent.
We don't see too many Bandol wines here in Ontario, but wine has been made in Bandol ever since the Greeks colonized the area more than 2,600 years ago. Bandol is located in Provence, along the French Riviera between Marseille and Toulon. Bandol was one of the first French appellations granted AOC status in 1941, and today, 60% of the entire production is devoted to rosé wine. It is also noteworthy to mention that Mourvèdre - a late-maturing black varietal that is ideal for the terrain and climate of Bandol - is the principle grape of the region, and makes up the majority of this rosé.
This particular rosé is produced by Les Vignerons de La Cadiérenne, a group of producers that formed the co-operative in 1929 and celebrated 90 years of winemaking in 2019. La Cadiérenne is the largest producer of PDO Bandol wines, working with 294 winegrowers that have approximately 600 hectares of land - of which 400 hectares are classified as AOP. The vines are mostly planted on hillsides within the municipalities of La Cadière d'Azur, Le Castellet, and Saint-Cyr sur Mer. Other wines from the La Cadiérenne portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.
Tasting Note:
LA CADIÉRENNE CUVÉE GRANDE TRADITION BANDOL ROSÉ 2019 - AC, Provence, France (#119453) (XD) - $24.95
This Bandol Rosé is a blend of 40% Mourvèdre, 30% Grenache, and 30% Cinsault from vines averaging 20 years and grown on clay-limestone and marl soils. All of the grapes were hand-harvested, partly de-stemmed, crushed, and vinified separately. Lovely, fresh, balanced, and complex aromas of nectarine, melon, citrus, grapefruit, red berry, and blackberry with touches of minerality. The dry, medium-full bodied palate has a lovely texture with fresh, vibrant acidity and spicy berry, orchard fruit, currant, anise, and saline mineral flavours. Some wild herbs on the mid-palate, while mineral notes linger on the long, juicy finish. Complex, elegant, and refreshing. Recommended buy. Score: 91 pts
wine review is a delicious, wallet-friendly, and intriguing Cinsault from South Africa that will arrive in LCBO VINTAGES on .
Scattered Earth is a relatively new brand of wines - launched within the last couple of years - and created by South Africa's co-operative - KWV. The Scattered Earth brand follows the learnings of The Mentors brand. With Mentors, the story is about innovation and experimentation, along with regionality. The exciting new winemakers created a micro-winery within KWV, and used what they learned about The Mentors line to create a range of Scattered Earth wines that are still regionally specific, and created on a fairly small scale, but bigger than Mentors so that they could be produced in larger quantities.
Cinsault is one of the parent grapes of the hybrid Pinotage, and it is uncommon to find Cinsault on its own in a bottle of wine. The grapes for this Cinsault come from Bush Vines, a system of perfectly straight rows of uniform height and short trunks. The Bush Vines are free-standing and best-suited to low-vigour vineyards in hot, drier climates, such as those found in the Western Cape in South Africa. Bush Vines tend to produce smaller crops with smaller berries that have thicker skins, resulting in much more concentrated colour and flavours. Let's see how this straight Cinsault is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
SCATTERED EARTH BUSH VINE CINSAULT 2018 - WO Western Cape, South Africa (#13350) (XD) - $12.95
Aged in oak for 8-10 months and enclosed by screw cap. Fresh, fruity nose of red berry, raspberry, cherry notes with floral, violet, and some rustic earthiness, dried herb and spice notes that add intrigue. It is medium-full bodied with impressive concentration on the palate. Ripe flavours of red berry, raspberry, cherry, and strawberry give way to rustic earthy and smoky wood spice notes. It has juicy acidity, while medium level tannins are well-integrated and have some structure. Nicely balanced with earthy, wood spice and touches of dark chocolate on the finish, with very good length. Would pair nicely with lamb burgers. Score: 88 pts
Les Vignerons de La Cadiérenne are a group of producers that have been making wine since 1929. While they make wines from various appellations in Provence, they are the largest producer of AOP Bandol wines. Their growers have approximately 600 ha of land within the region, of which 400 ha are planted to AOP classified vines and, for the most part, are planted on hillsides surrounding villages. La Cadiérenne is the most important cellar of western Var in Provence.
This excellent rosé comes from a long tradition of wine production in Bandol, where wine has been made since the Greeks first colonized the area over 2,600 years ago. The wine region of Bandol is located in the South of France and specializes in rosé wine, with 60% of its entire production devoted to rosé.
I last enjoyed the 2015 La Cadiérenne Cuvée Grande Tradition Bandol Rosé nearly 3 years ago to the day and am expecting the current vintage to be just as good, if not better. Let's see how this Bandol Rosé is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
LA CADIÉRENNE CUVÉE GRANDE TRADITION BANDOL ROSÉ 2018 - AC, Provence, France (#119453) (XD) - $22.95
A blend of 40% Mourvèdre, 30% Grenache, and 30% Cinsault that was vinified separately prior to creating the final cuvée. Clean, fresh and fragrant nose of grapefruit, citrus, herb, and garrigue aromas with hints of stony mineral. It is medium-full bodied on the palate with plenty of fruit and structure that is supported by crisp, juicy, mouth-watering acidity. It's dry on the flavour profile with lovely floral, peach blossom, grapefruit, red berry notes and a spicy mid-palate. There's a fine mineral note that lingers on the long, succulent finish. Nicely textured and well-balanced throughout. An excellent buy to enjoy over the next couple of years. Score: 91 pts
After a fine day tasting the white and rose wines from Luberon and Ventoux, our focused on Cairanne, the newest Southern Rhône Valley Cru. Cairanne was granted Côtes du Rhône status in 1953 and became a Côtes du Rhône Villages appellation in 1967. In 2008, an application was filed to the INAO to grant Cru status to Cairanne. Denis Alary, a man who I had lunch with later in the day, was a major driving force behind the push to have Cairanne elevated to Cru status. After more than 15 years of hard work, Cairanne was finally granted Cru status in 2016, beginning with the 2015 vintage.
It was another early start on Tuesday morning. After about half an hour of driving we arrived at our first winery of the day - Domaine Oratoire Saint-Martin. I was excited to visit this Domaine as I had done some research prior and discovered that they had some quality wines, some of which had previously been available in Ontario and Québec. The vineyards on this land have been cultivated by grape growers for 10 generations over 300 years. Today, this organic and biodynamic winery is owned by two brothers, Frédéric and François Alary.
We met Frédéric, who was unfortunately nursing a broken arm, and got a brief tour of the small production facility. It was interesting to see many different types of fermentation tanks for such a small winery - they definitely like to experiment and try different things to best express their wines and terroir. They have 25 hectares of vineyards, with 20% planted to white wine varietals - a fairly high percentage given that the average per producer is only 5%. After tasting through their wines, I can see why they produce more white wines than the average Cairanne winery. The whites showed elegance, freshness, and richness, with an ability to age well, as we discovered when we tasted the 2008 Haut Coustias Blanc (91 pts). The term "Coustias" translates into "bad earth", but for wine, this is very much a good thing. Domaine Oratoire Saint-Martin stopped producing rosé wines in 2009, as they were too heavy, so we only tasted white wines. and a few other surprise wines including a lovely 2000 Cuvée Séraphine Blanc dessert wine that was made with late harvest & dried grapes.
The second stop of the day was a short drive to Domaine Boisson, another small, family-owned and -operated winery. It was founded by current owner Bruno Boisson's great grandfather in the middle of the 19th century from 6-8 hectares of vines. In 1957, Bruno's grandfather, René, expanded the winery to 28 ha, of which 15 ha are in Cairanne. They began producing their own wines under the Domaine Boisson label in 1986. While Bruno and his father Régis Boisson produce wines using their own vision, training, and experience, vinification is supervised by highly-acclaimed oenologist Philippe Cambie. Cairanne appellation rules specify that white wines must contain at least 2 of Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Marsanne, Roussanne, Bourboulenc and Viognier, and rosés must be a blend of a minimum 50% Grenache Noir and at least 20% Syrah and/or Mourvèdre. This suits Domaine Boisson perfectly as their Cairanne vineyards have various types of soils and exposures, allowing them to create a variety of blends.
Domaine Boisson has 3 main types of terroir on their properties: Les Sablières - a covering of clay and sand of varying thicknesses dating from the Miocene period, supported by a subsoil of grey sand; Les Garrigues - scrublands with shallow soil of ancient flat terraces from the Quaternary period; Les Côteaux - beds of stony soil of varying thicknesses, alternating with layers of calcareous clay coloured light yellow, grey and white, and mostly south-facing. Since the weather was nice, Bruno was kind enough to take us to one of his hilltop vineyards, as well as a castle where we got a lovely view of Cairanne and the Rhône Valley. All of the wines are fermented using natural yeasts and the winery is in the process of converting to certified organic. Of their total production, 12% is white wine and 6% rosé, and we tasted everything available - 3 whites and 1 rosé.
Lunch was a short drive away at Côteaux et Fourchettes, a nicely appointed restaurant situated on the country side in Cairanne. It was a fine, hot and sunny day, so we sat outside on the patio and were joined by winemaker Caroline Moro and the one and only Denis Alary.
The Alary family's involvement in viticulture and wine production dates back to 1692, during the reign of Louis XIV. Amazingly, the first agricultural land-register of Cairanne dates back to 1414, when there were 100 parcels of vineyards. Tradition and passion are key elements to tendering and maturing wines within the Alary family, with experience being passed on from one generation to the next - now spanning 10 generations. Over the years, they have learned to understand their terroir in Cairanne. Most of the vines at Domaine Alary are south-facing, with terroir consisting of white and blue clay soils on the slopes, 'Garrigues' on the lower terraces, cobbles covering underlying white and red clay on the high plateau, along with the richer soils close to the Plan de Dieu. They have been making white wines for over 150 years and currently have a total of 5 ha planted to five varietals that are always vinified separately before blending. Today, Denis Alary represents the 10th generation of the Alary family and personally manages all aspects of the Domaine with the assistance of two employees.
Mr. Alary is also an idealist who dreams of improving things and people, and is the reason why he pushed himself to accept the management position of the Cairanne Trade Union more than 20 years ago. He was a very important piece in the pursuit of Cairanne achieving Cru status and is always looking to improve. As leader of the Trade Union, he searches until he finds consensus. Thus, the rules governing Cairanne appellation white wines which specified that Clairette, Grenache Blanc, and Roussanne must make up at least 70% of the final blend will be grandfathered in until 2023 to allow grape growers the time to establish the necessary yields. Over the course of lunch, I also learned that only 5% of all wine production in Cairanne is currently devoted to white wines, but Mr. Alary expects it to increase to 10% within the next five years. Listening to Mr. Alary speak, I sensed that he is a determined man that is also patient and considerate of others. As we tasted only a few delicious wines from the Alary portfolio, a visit to the Domaine in the future would surely be a special treat.
Caroline Moro is the winemaker at Les Grandes Serres, a negociant firm that was founded in the Southern Rhône Valley in 1977 by Michel Picard who is an owner that is also associated with producing wine in Burgundy. The winery is based in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but they also have vineyards in Gigondas and Cairanne. Additionally, they have formed strong ties and partnerships with key players in each appellation, including a Cairanne winery and numerous wine domains in order to secure the best possible grapes.
After lunch, we visited Domaine Rabasse Charavin, another family-owned and -operated winery that has been passed on from generation to generation. The history begins in 1890, when Edmond Rabasse, the great grandfather of current owner Corinne Couturier, purchased a cottage and the 3 ha of land surrounding it. Around 1925, his son Marcel Rabasse took over the land and added 5 ha of vineyards and olive groves. In 1950, Jeanine Rabasse (Corinne's mother) married Abel Charavin, and together they gave this small estate a new focus on winemaking. Corinne took over the reins in 1984, and was joined by her daughter Laure in 1993. Together, they form a unique mother-daughter winemaking team that tends to 40 ha of vines, all of which are handpicked. Domaine Rabasse Charavin practices organic & sustainable winemaking, and all of the wines are vegan-friendly. 5% of their production is devoted to white wines, most of which come from Cairanne. I wasn't too familiar with the Bourboulenc varietal, but I found it interesting to learn here that this grape is more oval-shaped (instead of round), tends to spread out when it grows, and also lowers the alcohol in wine blends due to the grape's low sugar content. We didn't visit the vineyards here, but after tasting through the wines with Laure and Corinne, we stepped out onto the veranda for a lovely view of the Cairanne landscape.
The last winery visit of the day was Domaine Brusset, a family estate that was established in 1947 by the late André Brusset. Prior to founding Domaine Brusset, André had grown grapes since 1929 and was a founding member of the cooperative of Cairanne. Together with his son Daniel, and his grandson Laurent, they formed three generations of winegrowers and winemakers. The three generations combine traditional winemaking with new techniques that were introduced by each generation of winemaker. Today, the Domaine Brusset estate covers 70 ha of vines across 5 appellations, nearly 40% of which are in Cairanne. Not surprisingly, their headquarters and main production facility is also in Cairanne in the heart of the southern Côtes du Rhône valley vineyards. Less than 10% of their production is devoted to white and rosé wines. We tasted the single rosé, which represented 2% of their entire production, and both whites that were available for tasting with Laurent.
We travelled about 1 hour to Nîmes and checked-in to Appart'City Nîmes Arènes - Appart Hôtel - a fine, modern hotel located across the vibrant Esplanade Charles-de-Gaulle and steps from the imposing Arènes de Nîmes (Roman amphitheatre). After freshening up, we were picked up by Henri-Claude Amadieu and headed out for dinner at Bistr'AU - a casual (yet, quite fine) dining spot that was located just outside the city centre.
Henri-Claude is the Head of Sales at the family-owned and -operated Pierre Amadieu, a winery based in Gigondas. He is also the cousin of Pierre Amadieu and one of a number of relatives that are involved in this family winemaking business. Pierre is the grandchild of Pierre Sr. and is the head of the company. He is also a winemaker and joined by his winemaker cousin Jean-Marie, uncle Claude who runs the vineyard, and Henri-Claude's sister (Marie) who is in charge of private customers and the cellar door.
The history of this important estate began with Pierre's grandfather, the original Pierre Amadieu, as a wine grower of 7 ha of vineyards in Gigondas in 1929. They pursue the long-established family tradition of respect for the soil, landscape, and vines in order to produce wines that reflect their unique terroir. Pierre Sr. was a pioneer in the region. In 1945, he built an underground cellar two levels deep to ensure constant temperature and hygrometry, and ten years later, he purchased an old railway tunnel near Pierrelongue (Drôme) that allowed for exceptional ageing. Henri-Claude informed us that the underground cellar is now closed, but suggested that if we were to visit the winery, we might be able to get a look at the impressive cellar. In the 1950's and 60's, Pierre Sr. also practised sustainable farming with up to 1200 sheep that provided natural manure for soil fertilization and also manage cover crops. Today, Pierre seeks to improve the wines with each vintage, looking for elegance and freshness, while also working the vineyards as naturally as possible. While Pierre Amadieu is mostly known for their estate-owned wines from Gigondas, they also work with growers throughout Southern Rhône and produce fine wines from Cairanne, Ventoux, and Tavel, some of which we got to taste at this dinner. Henri-Claude brought many wines to taste, including some exciting back vintage wines that were tasting great! Wine reviews of a couple of my favourite white wines are provided below.
After dinner, Henri-Claude was kind enough to give us a quick driving tour through the city centre of Nîmes. I was pleasantly surprised by the many historical structures found in Nîmes and I can definitely foresee myself visiting the city and spending some time here again, perhaps as a stepping stone to visiting Pierre Amadieu, an hour's drive northeast from here.
After two days of tasting white and rosé wines from Luberon, Ventoux, and Cairanne, I was very impressed with the the appellation wines. The rosé wines from Cairanne producers were pleasing, however, they were not labelled as Cairanne because they did not conform to appellation rules for rosé wines, thus, they were labelled as generic Côtes du Rhône bottles. My view of traditional whites from Southern Rhône prior to this trip consisted of blends made with Marsanne, Roussanne, and Viognier. However, this view was being completely shattered as Clairette and Grenache Blanc were playing very significant roles in the final blends. The quality is good, and the prices are quite affordable. I was very much looking forward to tasting the wines of Costières de Nîmes on day three.
Tasting Notes:
DOMAINE ORATOIRE SAINT-MARTIN RESERVE DE SEIGNEURS CAIRANNE BLANC 2017 - AOP, Rhône, France (XD) - 13.50 €
40% Clairette, 30% Roussanne, and 30% Grenache Blanc. Elegant, medium intensity nose is clean with lemon citrus, herbs, fennel, and grassy aromas. It is medium bodied and creamy with nice, clean aroma replays plus a fine mineral note. Clean, balanced acids and a touch warm on the long finish. Score: 89 pts
DOMAINE ORATOIRE SAINT-MARTIN HAUT COUSTIAS CAIRANNE BLANC 2016 - AOP, Rhône, France (XD) - 19 €
From 70-90 year old vines, blend of 40% Clairette, 20% Marsanne, 20% Roussanne, and 20% Grenache Blanc. The clairette and Grenache Blanc were fermented in concrete egg, while the Marsanne and Roussane were barrel fermented. Made in a oxidative style, this has a medium-high intensity nose that's herbally and grassy, with subtle wood influence. The medium+ bodied palate is a little creamy and has a slightly leesy character, with pleasing aroma replays. It nicely balanced throughout with good acidity. The mouthfeel is rich, while the finish is long. Score: 90 pts
Agent: N/A
DOMAINE BOISSON CÔTES DU RHÔNE ROSÉ 2017 - AOP, Rhône, France (XD) - 6.20 €
50% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 20% Cinsault, and 10% Carignan made in the saignée method. Medium-high intensity nose is fresh with white peach, grapefruit, herbally and garrigue aromas. It is dry on the light-to-medium bodied with a chalky mineral texture, some structure and complexity, and herbally, raspberry aroma replays. Very good finish length. Score: 88 pts
DOMAINE BOISSON CUVÉE L'EXIGENCE CAIRANNE BLANC 2016 - AOP, Rhône, France (XD) - 12.10 €
Blend of 45% Roussanne, 35% Clairette, and 25% Grenache Blanc that underwent malolactic fermentation and was aged in used barrels. Medium intensity nose with apple, stone fruit, lemon citrus. Wood influence is apparent, plus nice aroma replays on the nicely balanced flavour profile. A touch creamy with grapefruit flavours mid-palate. Juicy acids. Nicely textured and elegant on the long finish. Score: 89 pts
Agent: N/A
DOMAINE ALARY L'EXCLUS D'ALARY BLANC 2017 - AOP Côtes du Rhône, France (XD)
Not Cairanne appellation because it is 100% Clairette, however, it is from 35-year-old vines in Cairanne raised in demi-muid barrels. Medium intensity nose offers lanolin, yellow flowers, and white peach aromas. Medium-bodied with crisp acids and lemon oil, herbal, and anise seed flavours. More lemony on the mid-palate. Nicely balanced with fine mineral notes lingering on the finish, with very good length. Score: 88 pts
DOMAINE ALARY L'ESTÉVANAS CAIRANNE BLANC 2017 - AOP, Rhône, France (XD)
Clairette and Roussanne blend. Medium+ intensity nose is fresh with white peach, lemon, yellow floral, and herbs. Nicely textured on the medium+ bodied palate with pleasing aroma replays, bright acids, and very good length on the herbally finish. Score: 89 pts
LES GRANDES SERRES CARIUS CAIRANNE BLANC 2017 - AOP, Rhône, France (XD)
Mostly Bourboulenc (50%) with Clairette and Grenache Blanc completing the blend, this has lovely, fresh medium-high intensity aromas and flavour of lanolin, white flower, lemon oil and citrus. It's medium-bodied and elegant, ripe fruited, rich and rounded. Clean acids. Long, elegant finish. Aged on the lees in stainless steel and concrete tanks. Score: 90 pts
DOMAINE RABASSE CHARAVIN CUVÉE D'ESTEVANAS CAIRANNE BLANC 2017 - AOP, Rhône, France (XD) - 21 €
Mostly Roussanne, this has a medium+ intensity and clean nose of lemon/lime, floral and herbs. It has bright acids and is somewhat structured, creamy, and very ripe with nice herbally aroma replays. Very good length on the finish. Score: 89 pts
DOMAINE RABASSE CHARAVIN ROSE PRUNE 2017 - AOP Côtes du Rhône, France (XD) - 9.5 €
Blend of 50% Grenache, 25% Counoise, and 25% Carignan. This has a medium+ intensity nose that's clean and fresh with raspberry, herbal, and garrigue aromas. Dry with nice fruity aroma replays and bright, fresh acids on the palate. Very good finish length. Score: 88 pts
Agent: N/A
DOMAINE BRUSSET JEANNE B. CÔTES DU RHÔNE ROSÉ 2017 - AOP, Rhône, France (XD) - 7.5 €
2% of production. Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah. Medium-intensity nose is ripe and fruit with raspberry and strawberry aromas. It's medium+ bodied with a plush mouthfeel, some structure, and pleasing aroma replays plus some herbally character. There's fresh acids and a fine mineral mid-palate. Very good finish length with some chalky mineral texture. Score: 88+ pts
DOMAINE BRUSSET L'ESPRIT DE PAPET CAIRANNE 2016 - AOP, Rhône, France (XD) - 18 €
Meaning "spirit of grandfather", this is a blend of 40% Viognier, 40% Roussanne, 10% Clairette, and 10% Grenache Blanc was raised in oak for 18 months. Wood-influenced aromas plus baked apple, spice, herbs, and butter. It's medium-full bodied on the palate with a fine seam of acidity and touches of floral and lemon oil flavours joining the aroma profile. Creamy mid-palate and very good finish length. Score: 90+ pts
PIERRE AMADIEU CÔTES DU RHÔNE ROULEPIERRE 2017 - AOP, Rhône, France (XD) - $19.95 CAD
This 75/25 Clairette and Grenache Blanc blend has a medium intensity nose that is all mineral, lemon and herbal aromas and flavours with a lovely saline character taking the lead on the medium+ bodied palate. Fresh, fine acids and somewhat structured. Nicely elegant with a long, clean finish. Score: 89 pts
PIERRE AMADIEU DOMAINE GRAND ROMANE CÔTES DU RHÔNE BLANC 2017 - AOP, Rhône, France (XD)
100% Clairette from vines planted in 1955, barrel-fermented and aged on the lees for 6 months, this has a subtle nose of herb, white flower and white peach. It is medium-full bodied and creamy with very nice aroma replays and juicy acids. Some woody notes arrive mid-palate and add elegance. Very good finish length. Score: 89 pts
Saturday, November 16, 2024
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