Kew Blanc de Blancs 2017 and Blanc de Noirs 2020 (Niagara) - Wine Reviews

After enjoying the excellent 2020 Kew Vineyards Marsanne a few months ago (and still widely available in stores today), tonight's sparkling wine reviews a pair of wonderful bubblies from the same producer in Niagara that arrived at the LCBO as part of the feature story on Bubbles in the December 14 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Both of these fantastic bubblies are produced by Kew Vineyards, a boutique estate winery situated on the limestone-rich soils of the Beamsville Bench, in the heart of Niagara wine country. Kew Vineyards is situated on a 160-year-old estate, in a homestead built by William Kew that was used by the family to successfully produce carriages.

Once the Kew family's chapter ended, a new chapter began in 1975, when Mr. Hermann Weis brought his own clones from the Mosel Valley in Germany and planted some of Niagara's first Riesling vines on the estate at Kew Vineyards. Unknowingly, Mr. Weis became a true pioneer of Ontario's wine region, even while he was relentlessly met with skepticism as the community said he could never do it. Most of Niagara's Rieslings today are based on the Weis Clone.

Today, Kew Vineyards is a hidden gem of Niagara's wine country history. It is owned by Arterra Wines Canada, who acquired the historical property and its 80+ acres of vineyards in 2023. The vineyards are situated on sloping land and well-drained soils, with ideal growing temperatures.

The focus at Kew Vineyards is on small-batch winemaking, with the belief that wine is the ultimate expression of passion - passion for the art of wine making, passion for the land, and passion for the way in which it celebrates daily life. The winemaking team is led by veteran Australian winemaker Philip Dowell, who has focused his life's work on cool-climate wines. The philosophy at Kew is to allow the vineyard to tell its story of each harvest, while also expressing the terroir in order to produce world-class wines that are uniquely Niagara.

The sparkling wines reviewed below are both mono-varietal and vintage sparkling wines. The 2017 Blanc de Blancs is crafted using 100% Chardonnay, while the 2020 Blanc de Noirs was produced using 100% Pinot Noir. The 2017 growing season in Ontario was generally cool with wet weather. At the beginning of September, extended heat and sunshine resulted in one of the nicest autumn seasons on record, as well as a later harvest. Grape quantities were high with a record harvest, while the quality was excellent for white wine varieties. The growing season in 2020 provided near perfect conditions that coaxed the best out of a wide spectrum of grapes from whites to big red Bordeaux varieties, and everything in between, including Pinot Noir. The 2020 vintage produced grapes which reached phenolic ripeness, while also maintaining acidity to allow for balanced wines. Let's see how these two vintage sparkling wines from Niagara are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

KEW BLANC DE BLANCS 2017 - Traditional method, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#438994) (D) - $32.95 $28.70
100% Chardonnay that was barrel aged for 5 months prior to bottling for secondary fermentation, and then aged on its lees for 5 years. Fresh, elegant, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose offers lovely toasty, brioche, and autolytic characters mingling with lemon citrus, stone fruit, and white peach aromas, plus whiffs of pastry and honey adding further complexity and intrigue. It's light-to-mid weighted and essentially dry on the palate with delicious citrusy, ripe apple, toasty, and brioche flavours with touches of autolytic notes and a twist of honey. It has crisp acidity and lively bubbles that freshen the juicy and slightly creamy palate. Subtly spicy with apple, toasty, and brioche flavours that are joined by leesy minerals on the long, crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

KEW BLANC DE NOIRS 2020 - Traditional method, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#380030) (D) - $32.95 $28.70
100% Pinot Noir that was gently whole-berry pressed and fermented in stainless steel, followed by ageing on its lees for 2 years. The medium+ intensity nose offers apple, pear, red cherry, and lemon citrus aromas with touches of biscuit and toast. Some autolytic and honeyed aromas develop with time in the glass. The vibrant, medium-bodied palate is dry with delicious toasty, apple, pear, and lemon citrus flavours with hints of honey, biscuit, and mineral. It has fresh, vibrant acidity and crisp, refreshing mousse, along with a textured and slightly grippy mid-palate. Apple, lemon citrus, and mineral notes linger on the long, crisp, and dry finish. Recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other fine wines by Kew Vineyards can be found at the LCBO, while the full range can be purchased directly from the winery in Beamsville (Niagara), or through their Agent - Arterra Wines Canada.

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Wakefield Jaraman Shiraz 2022 (Australia) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of an always terrific Australian Shiraz that arrived at the LCBO as part of the recent November 30th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Wakefield Wines, which is known as Taylors Wines in Australia. This family estate winery was established near the Wakefield River in South Australia's Clare Valley in 1969 by Bill Taylor Sr. and his two sons. The Taylor family worked as wine merchants, but desired to have their own vineyards and create their own, authentic, and estate-grown wines. By 1969, they settled on a site near the Wakefield River and established Taylors Wines.

Today, Wakefield Wines is led by brothers Mitchell, Justin, and Clinton, the third-generation of the Taylor family, the sons of Bill Taylor and grandchildren of Bill Taylor Sr. The brothers continue their family's tradition of crafting delicious wines that stand the test of time, while also firmly fixed upon the future and the next generation. The family's philosophy is to craft wines sustainably and responsibly, while respecting the fruit and where it comes from. Their goal is to be Australia's best wine company at applying best practiced principles in environmental management to enhance sustainable business activities and products. They also favour the most innovative techniques to improve energy efficiency, water conservation, and packaging, while also preventing or eliminating waste and pollution. Through a holistic approach to environmental management, they aim to achieve sustainable land and biodiversity management outcomes for both the present and future. Taylors Wine is also a founding member of Australia's First Families of Wine, which was formed in 2009.

Wakefield Wines has several ranges of wines in their portfolio, with this wine coming from their premium Jaraman range, which celebrates Australia's iconic wine regions which provide great diversity. With the Jaraman range, the Taylor family searches for parcels of extraordinary fruit which they can use to showcase the distinctive regional characters and style for each grape variety. The fruit for Jaraman wines is sourced from celebrated wine regions in Australia that are renowned for producing particular varieties. At the winery, the winemaker at Wakefield ensures that the distinct regional characteristics of each variety are preserved and enhanced, while also making sure that the fruit is the star of the wine, and any winemaking influence only plays a supporting role. Respecting the fruit is a core value at Wakefield Wines, and the Jaraman range showcases the skill and dedication to this core value.

While the previous vintage of this wine - the 2021 Wakefield Jaraman Shiraz - was nearly equal parts of fruit from Clare Valley and McLaren Vale, this latest vintage is 100% Shiraz with 72% Clare Valley fruit and 28% McLaren Vale fruit. Traditional vinification methods were used to craft this red wine, with parcels from the two regions kept separate until blending prior to oak ageing. The wine was matured for an average of 12 to 15 months in a selection of new and used American oak hogsheads and then bottled.

The 2022 vintage in Clare Valley was a year of both high quality and quantity as the crops basked in the mild, sunny days without any rain or humidity. The stunningly beautiful weather provided uninterrupted and idyllic conditions that were more typical of the better vintages during the 80s and 90s. In McLaren Vale, it was a slightly different story as inconsistent fruit set reduced yields by about 15%, which likely explains the reduction of McLaren Vale fruit in this cuvée. The growing season featured mild conditions of warm days and cool nights, with minimal rain and no heat spikes. The end result produced some of the best McLaren Vale reds in years with vibrant wines having supple tannins and bright, natural acidity. From a mostly cool and very good vintage, let's see how this 2022 Shiraz from Australia is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

WAKEFIELD JARAMAN SHIRAZ 2022 - Clare Valley / McLaren Vale, South Australia (#377036) (XD) - $24.95 $21.70
Screw cap. The fragrant, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose has plummy dark fruit, mulberry, blackberry, and black cherry aromas alongside savoury oak, chocolate, clove, and subtle Asian spice notes. The medium+ bodied palate is dry with delicious mulberry, brambly, plum, blackberry, sweet spice, clove, and chocolatey oak flavours in a slightly jammy profile. It is quite firmly structured on the palate, with smooth, ripe tannins. Gently tangy acids are crisp, juicy, and succulent, while the chocolatey oak, plum, and earthy notes linger on the long, well-structured finish. Recommended buy to enjoy into the early 2030s. Score: 89 pts

Other lovely Wakefield Wines can be purchased at the LCBO, or through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Artemivske Victory White Brut Sparkling and Red Semi-Sweet Sparkling (Ukraine) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's sparkling wine reviews are a pair of brand-new arrivals that landed at the LCBO a couple of weeks ago in the November 30 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Both of these wines are produced by Artwinery, a sparkling wine producer in Ukraine that was established in 1950, but whose history goes back to the 19th century.

Ukranian history in the production of traditional method sparkling wines begins with Prince Lev Golitsyn, who bought an estate in Novyi Svit, on the southern shores of Crimea, that was completely destroyed during the Crimean War. By 1882, the Prince's factory was able to revive Crimean winemaking by producing traditional method sparkling wines. During this period, in the town of Bakhmut, in the eastern part of the country, engineer Edmund Farke signed a contract with the government for the construction of alabaster factories, which became a thriving enterprise. The extraction of gypsum for the factories resulted in a large underground mine, 70 metres below ground, which had a micro-climate that allowed for fermentation to take place, and was the beginning of unique wine production in Ukraine.

The celebration of victory following World War II required a special drink, and in the 1940s they started working on creating "Soviet sparkling wine", which had to be of at least equal quality to Champagne. They used the underground galleries of Bakhmut, which was known as Artemivsk back then, for the production of classical sparkling wines, and by 1950, the wine factory was officially established. These wines were tasty, high-quality, and the most hard-to-find in the U.S.S.R., as they were distributed mostly in stores for those that worked for the party, while off-limits to ordinary citizens.

As Ukraine gained its independence in 1991, the wine factory began creating sparkling wines under its own brands - Artemivske and Krim. In 2007, the winery began upgrading the plant with more modern and powerful units, while the laboratory was completely renovated. Furthermore, some processes that were manually performed are also now automated. These upgrades allowed the winery to produce 25 million bottles per year. In 2016, the company got its new name - Artwinery. By 2020, Artwinery's sparkling wines were gaining global recognition and winning prizes at international industry competitions and exhibitions.

Today, Artwinery is the largest in Eastern Europe and the only one in Ukraine to produce sparkling wines in the classic Champenoise method where re-fermentation of the wine and its saturation with bubbles is carried out naturally in bottle. As we know - place matters, and as such, Bakhmut is situated at the same latitude and climatic zone as Champagne. The grapes used to create Artwinery's sparkling wines are grown in the fertile soils of southern Ukraine, in the sunny climates of Odesa, Kherson, and Mykolaiv. With the war in Ukraine ongoing, the workers continue producing wine in secret locations to not let the Russians stop their work.

These particular sparkling wines are from Artwinery's Artemivske range. The Artemivske brand is only 10 years old, but has become the #1 sparkling wine in Ukraine and is a favourite among several generations as it evokes the warmth of your family memories and the brightest everyday emotions. Today, the Artemivske brand retains its impeccable quality and enjoys constant popularity. Each bottle in the Artemivske range is fermented using their special in-house yeast and aged in bottle for at least 9 months and offers a delicate bouquet and taste. Let's see how these sparkling wines from Ukraine are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

ARTEMIVSKE VICTORY RED SEMI-SWEET SPARKLING - Ukraine (#40768) (MS) - $18.95
Crafted in the Charmat method, this blend of Cabernet, Merlot, and Saperavi has a medium intensity nose that is gently spicy, followed by macerated black cherry, dark berry, milk chocolate, cocoa, dark plum, cassis, and currant aromas. It's mid-weighted and gently sweet with black cherry, plummy, dark berry, savoury spices, and chocolate flavours supported by gently frothy mousse and bright acidity that tempers the sweetness. Quite harmonious and balanced throughout, even some sense of elegance, while savoury cocoa and milk chocolate notes linger on the finish, with very good length. Recommended buy. Score: 88+ pts

ARTEMIVSKE VICTORY WHITE BRUT SPARKLING - Ukraine (#40769) (D) - $18.95
Blend of Chardonnay, Riesling, and Aligoté crafted in the Charmat method. The fresh, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose offers ripe peach, nectarine, honeysuckle, and freshly sliced apple aromas accented with orange and citrus notes. There's a touch of sweetness alongside bitterness on the crisp, refreshing, and slightly frothy light-to-mid-weighted palate with lively acidity and bubbles. Gently sweet flavours of apple, pear, orchard fruit, and white floral, plus notes of peach and citrus. Juicy and succulent on the mid-palate, while leesy notes linger on the essentially dry finish, with very good length. Appealing crowd-pleaser. Recommended buy. Score: 88 pts

Other delicious sparkling wines by Artwinery can be purchased through their Agent - Dionysus Wines & Spirits.

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December 14, 2024 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: Bubbles

Happy holidays! Here are my top wine picks from the December 14, 2024 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, which is the last release of the year. The feature story in this release focuses on - what else? - Sparkling Wines for holiday and end-of-year celebrations. There are 135 wines on offer in this release, and it includes a selection of Online & Flagship Exclusive (OFE) wines. All the wines should be available for purchase by Saturday. The prices noted below include HST, which will be removed when purchasing.

We'll begin with the feature story that focuses on sparkling wines from around the world. Of the seventeen bubblies included as part of the theme, six are included among my top sparkling wine picks. Most of my sparkling wine picks from the theme are relatively wallet-friendly at under $33, with the exception being the 2017 vintage Champagne ($136) that is crafted with 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. On the local front, there are a couple of fine vintage sparkling wines from Niagara's Kew Vineyards - the Blanc de Blancs, which is crafted with Chardonnay, and the Blanc de Noirs, which is made with Pinot Noir. The sparkling wine from Loire is a blend of 80% Chenin Blanc and 20% Chardonnay, while the bubbles from Provence is composed of Syrah and Grenache. And lastly, the vintage Cava is a blend of 50% Xarel·lo, 35% Macabeu, and 15% Perallada.

There are two other sparkling wines not part of the feature story but also worth a look. From Champagne, the Bollinger Brut Rosé is crafted with 62% Pinot Noir, 24% Chardonnay, and 14% Meunier, while the Palmer Brut Réserve is approximately 50% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir, and 20% Meunier. Lastly, the Hidden Bench sparkling wine from Niagara is made using 57% Pinot Noir and 43% Chardonnay.

My top red wine picks begin in Napa Valley, with the iconic Silver Oak Cab Sauv that is actually a blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot, and 1% Malbec. Tuscany has five wine recommendations among my picks, with Brunello di Montalcino made with 100% Sangiovese, while the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is 70% Sangiovese (Prugnolo Gentile) with Canaiolo making up most of the remaining blend. The Riserva Chianti Classico is composed of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo + other varieties, while the Isole e Olena Chianti Classico is of a similar blend, and the Vallepicciola Chianti Classico is 100% Sangiovese. Also from Italy, the red wine from Sicily is crafted with Nero d'Avola, while the Barolo is made with, of course, Nebbiolo. The Côtes du Rhône red is a blend of 85% Grenache, 10% Shiraz, and 5% Mourvèdre, while the Australian GSM red is an unspecified blend of Grenache, Shiraz, and Mataro. From Chile, the Cabernet Franc includes 5% Petit Verdot, while the Argentine red is an 80/20 blend of Malbec and Touriga Nacional. Lastly, the red wine from Spain is composed of 40% Grenache, 40% Tempranillo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Cariñena.

Among my white wine picks, the only blend is the Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, which is crafted with nearly half Grenache Blanc, plus Roussanne, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Piquepoul, and Picardin rounding out the blend. Other white wines include a Chardonnay from South Africa, and a couple of Sauvignon Blancs - one each from New Zealand and Friuli, and a pair of dry Rieslings - one each from Alsace and Austria. The sweet wine among the lot is the lovely Gewürztraminer from Alsace.

Enjoy my top wine recommendations from this release and have a safe and happy holiday season! Cheers!

Red Wine:

• MONTES LIMITED SELECTION PINOT NOIR 2022 - DO Aconcagua Costa, Chile (#37937) (XD) - $15.95  90 pts  wine review
• MONASTERIO DE LAS VIÑAS RESERVA 2019 - DO Cariñena, Spain (#166579) (XD) - $16.95
• HALOS DE JUPITER CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2022 - AC, France (#276956) (XD) - $19.95  89 pts  wine review
• KABILE RESERVE SYRAH 2016 - PGI Thracian Valley, Bulgaria (#41369) (XD) - $19.95
• VIÑALBA RESERVA MALBEC / TOURIGA NACIONAL 2022 - Vegan, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina (#442459) (XD) - $19.95
• VALLEPICCIOLA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2021 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#39690) (XD) - $19.95  review coming soon...
  

• PÉREZ CRUZ LIMITED EDITION CABERNET FRANC 2022 - DO Valle del Maipo, Chile (#10591) (XD) - $19.95  90+ pts  wine review
• TASCA D'ALMERITA REGALEALI LAMÙRI 2020 - DOC Sicily, Italy (#36750) (XD) - $23.95
• TORBRECK OLD VINES GRENACHE / MOURVÈDRE / SHIRAZ 2022 - Barossa Valley, South Australia (#10223) (XD) - $24.95
• CARPINETO RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2019 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#47118) (XD) - $31.95  90+ pts  wine review
• CARPINETO RISERVA VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO 2019 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#368910) (XD) - $34.95  91+ pts  wine review

• ISOLE E OLENA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2021 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#704346) (XD) - $45.95  93 pts  wine review
• FLOWERS PINOT NOIR 2022 - Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California, USA (#215202) (XD) - $69.95
• RENATO RATTI MARCENASCO BAROLO 2020 - DOCG, Piedmont, Italy (#713479) (XD) - $78.95  93 pts  wine review
• LA FIORITA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2019 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#998195) (XD) - $103.95  OFE  93 pts  wine review
• SILVER OAK NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019 - Napa Valley, California, USA (#936039) (XD) - $325.95  94 pts  wine review

White Wine:

• PITARS BRAIDA SANTA CECILIA SAUVIGNON 2022 - DOC Friuli, Italy (#30119) (XD) - $16.95
• BABICH SINGLE VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 - Sustainable, Vegan, Wairau Valley, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#36903) (XD) - $23.95
• DE WETSHOF BON VALLON CHARDONNAY 2023 - WO Robertson, South Africa (#403675) (XD) - $24.95
• TRIMBACH RIESLING 2022 - AC Alsace, France (#734517) (XD) - $29.95
• BRÜNDLMAYER TERRASSEN RIESLING 2023 - DAC Kamptal, Austria (#40885) (XD) - $34.95  OFE
• DOMAINES SCHLUMBERGER KESSLER GEWURZTRAMINER 2021 - AC Alsace Grand Cru, France (#307694) (MS) - $37.95  OFE
• E. GUIGAL CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC 2021 - AC, Rhône, France (#28618) (XD) - $71.95  OFE  93 pts  wine review

Sparkling Wine:

• RIVAROSE BRUT PRESTIGE ROSÉ SPARKLING - IGP Méditerranée, Salon de Provence, France (#515288) (D) - $19.95  89 pts  wine review
• BOUVET LADUBAY BOUVET BRUT DE LOIRE SAUMUR BRUT SPARKLING - Traditional method, AC, Loire, France (#40866) (XD) - $19.95
• JUVE & CAMPS BRUT NATURE GRAN RESERVA RESERVA DE FAMILIA CAVA 2019 - Traditional method, Spain (#39815) (XD) - $27.95
• KEW BLANC DE NOIRS 2020 - Traditional method, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#380030) (D) - $32.95  90+ pts  wine review
• KEW BLANC DE BLANCS 2017 - Traditional method, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#438994) (D) - $32.95  91+ pts  wine review
• HIDDEN BENCH NATUR ZÉRO DOSAGE SPARKLING 2017 - Traditional method, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#42220) (XD) - $47.20
• PALMER BRUT RÉSERVE CHAMPAGNE - AC, France (#39865) (XD) - $85.95  review coming soon...
  
• LOUIS ROEDERER ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE 2017 - AC, France (#368415) (XD) - $135.95
• BOLLINGER BRUT ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE - AC, France (#100503) (XD) - $149.95  OFE

Fortified Wine:

• HIDALGO LA GITANA TRIANA PEDRO XIMENEZ SHERRY - DO, Spain (#39467, 500 mL) (S) - $25.95

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Deux Roches Les Pommards Saint-Véran 2021 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

After enjoying the lovely 2021 Deux Roches Vieilles Vignes Pouilly-Fuissé a couple of months ago, for tonight's white wine review we go up a notch with this excellent, single vineyard Chardonnay from Burgundy that was a brand-new arrival at the LCBO last month as an Online & Flagship Exclusive in the November 16 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection - with plenty still available for purchase today!

Like the Pouilly-Fuissé, this white wine is produced by Deux Roches, the Burgundy estate winery that is run by two long-time friends, Christian Collovray and Jean-Luc Terrier, who are behind Collovray et Terrier. The Domaine of Deux Roches is situated in the heart of the picturesque Mâconnais landscape, in the village of Davayé to the north of the Saint-Véran AOC, and specializes in the production of Chardonnay wines in the Mâconnais style. Deux Roches, which translates to "Two Rocks", gets its name from the two limestone rocks of Vergisson and Solutré that are situated in the area.

Deux Roches' story begins in 1928, when Joanny Collovray settled in the small village of Davayé to farm the land with various crops, including grapevines, and produce goat's cheese. Joanny was a simple tenant farmer and produced some wine on the property, while letting merchants take care of selling the wine. In 1940, Collovray's wines were mentioned in the press for their quality. In 1956, Henri Collovray, son of Joanny, took over the property and extended the family's vineyard holdings by purchasing a few parcels in the Mâcon-Davayé appellation. At the young age of 16, Christian Collovray, son of Henri, began working the vines and, eventually, gave up animal farming to solely focus on winegrowing.

The Terrier family had no history of cultivating vines, but Léon Terrier was the village blacksmith and worked alongside local winegrowers. His son, Jean-Luc Terrier, chose to go to an agricultural college and specialize in viticulture, and crossed paths with his childhood friend and neighbour, Christian Collovray. Together, Christian and Jean-Luc shared a love for vines and wines, a bond which grew even closer when they married sisters Brigitte and Florence, who were from a family of winegrowers.

Today, with the next generation joining the family business, Deux Roches is recognized for producing great wines that respect terroir and tradition, at relatively accessible prices. With agricultural roots, they know that everything begins in the vineyard as they work the soil and have respect for the vegetation. Perfection is the objective, while also recognizing that adapting to the year's weather conditions is also necessary. Sustainability is also a core value of Collovray et Terrier as they minimize inputs and use natural processes to stimulate the plants’ own natural defences to control pests and disease. The families also protect and encourage biodiversity, with one of these projects revolving around having beehives on the property in Davayé. Other initiatives in reducing their environmental impact include minimizing the use of water in the cellar and controlling waste disposal, and limiting the use of energy from non-renewable sources.

This white wine is from Deux Roches' top-tier Parcel Selections range - single vineyard wines that are the expression of a specific place with a unique character. Since the beginning, Collovray & Terrier have sought to produce wines that express the individual characteristics of each of their parcels, with their extraordinary organoleptic potential. For the Parcel Selections range, they employ all the techniques and skills available to them, such as hand harvesting and lengthy barrel ageing, to allow the terroir to speak of the superb complexity conferred by the wines' origins.

Crafted with 100% Chardonnay, the grapes for this wine were grown on a 0.81 hectare plot located in the town of Davayé, on the hillside of the Roche de Solutré. The vines are north-facing, on a 30% slope, and planted between 1975 and 1983 on marly soil that is moderately deep, and is made up of chalk on the surface. The grapes were manually harvested and gently loaded into the pneumatic presses by gravity, followed by long pressing cycles in order to preserve the aromatic finesse. The must was cold-stabilized, then decanted and placed into barrels for fermentation. The wine was aged for 19 months, of which 11 months were in barrels, followed by 8 months in vats.

In 2021, the growing season in Burgundy was challenging due to the season beginning with a hard winter frost, followed by pests and disease which wreaked havoc in the vineyards and reduced yields. Summer was cool-ish, while the wine quality was determined by hard work in the vineyard and at the winery. In challenging vintages, the best vignerons can still produce delicious and harmonious wines exhibiting freshness, energy, elegance, and finesse. Let's see how this 2021 single vineyard Chardonnay from Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DEUX ROCHES LES POMMARDS SAINT-VÉRAN 2021 - AP, Burgundy, France (#37919) (XD) - $50.95
This single vineyard Chardonnay has richly elegant, medium-high intensity, and developing aromas of stone and orchard fruits, nectarine, honeysuckle, apple, and pear, plus floral, vanilla, oak spice, and flinty mineral, and hints of mushroom add intrigue and great complexity. It is impressively concentrated on the dry, medium+ to medium-full bodied palate with rich and lovely honeyed, nutty, vanilla oak spice flavours surrounding a core of ripe orchard fruit, apple, pear, nectarine, and floral. It's nicely textured with very good structure and juicy, mouth-watering acidity. Still somewhat youthful on the structured and textured finish with tangy stone fruit and flinty mineral notes lingering on the finish, with excellent length. Should drink beautifully into the early 2030s and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other fine wines by Collovray et Terrier's Deux Roches label and can be found at the LCBO, or ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Catena High Mountain Vines Malbec 2022 and Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine reviews are a pair of lovely and consistently well-made wines from Argentina that are widely available year-round at the LCBO as they are part of the VINTAGES Essentials Collection.

These wines are produced by Catena Zapata, one of Argentina's most prestigious wineries, which is known for producing high-quality wines. It was established in 1902 by Nicola Catena, an Italian immigrant, after he planted his first Malbec vines in Mendoza during a time when Malbec was used primarily as a blending grape. Nicola's eldest son, Domingo, inherited his father's dream and took the family business to another level to become one of Mendoza's largest vineyard holders.

Catena Zapata was revitalized and gained international acclaim during the 1980s when Nicolás Catena Zapata, son of Domingo, took over the family business. Today, the renowned winery is led by Dr. Laura Catena, daughter of Nicolás, and the 4th generation of the family to work in the wine business. The Catena family is noted for being one of Argentina's first wineries to introduce modern viticultural and winemaking techniques to the country, as well as for its commitment to innovation, quality, and sustainability.

Today, nearly all of Catena's vineyards are farmed sustainably and organically, focusing on lower yields and biodiversity. Both of the wines reviewed in this post are certified sustainable and are noticeably lighter in bottle weight due to the fact that they are now packaged in 500 g glass bottles (down from 700 g), resulting in a 28% lighter bottle. It is also worth noting that up to 60% of the carbon footprint of a wine is the glass of the bottle.

Both of these wines are from the "Catena" range - a blend of single varietal lots from the family's high mountain estate vineyards. These high mountain vineyard wines are made by Laura Catena, a fourth generation vintner, and Alejandro Vigil, chief winemaker. Through decades of study and exploration within Mendoza's high altitude mountain terroirs, the Catena family has identified special locations for its Estate vineyards. Each historic vineyard is divided into lots that are harvested separately, and specially prepared to be part of the final blend. The three wines that make up the Catena range are Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and Chardonnay, and are intricately crafted by blending components from different terroirs and altitudes to create balanced and expressive wines of unique character with natural balance, concentration, and distinct varietal identity. These wines can be consumed upon release or aged beautifully for a decade or more.

The 100% Malbec is crafted using grapes from three high mountain vineyards of alluvial origin - Lunlunta (3,018 ft. / 920 m elevation with loamy clay in the topsoil with rounded rocks on the bottom), El Cepillo in Eugenio Bustos (3,593 ft. / 1,090 m with loam-sandy soil, thick calcareous layers and rounded rocks on the bottom), and Gualtallary (4,757 ft. / 1,450 m elevation featuring gravel and limestone soil, and rounded rocks in the bottom). The Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of grapes (including 7% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot) from four high mountain vineyards of alluvial origin - Agrelo (3,117 ft. / 950 m elevation with clay topsoil with rounded rocks on the bottom), Villa Bastías (3,675 ft. / 1,120 m elevation with silt loamy soil and limestone on the bottom, Altamira in La Consulta (3,593 ft. / 1,095 m with loamy soil and rounded rocks on the bottom, and El Cepillo in Eugenio Bustos.

The 2022 growing season was an exceptional year from a qualitative standpoint at Catena Zapata, with wines having optimal acidity, great concentration and ripeness of polyphenols, and just-right alcohol levels. While it was a bit of a roller coaster with two big frosts and a shorter harvest period, Alejandro Vigil stated that this was the best year that he has lived through. The vintage required deep knowledge of every region and vineyard because the weather patterns were very unpredictable. From a challenging, and yet promising vintage, let's see how the 2022 Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon wines from Argentina are tasting...

Tasting Notes:

CATENA HIGH MOUNTAIN VINES MALBEC 2022 - Mendoza, Argentina (#478727) (XD) - $22.95
100% Malbec, this grapes underwent extensive cold maceration to extract aromas, followed by alcoholic fermentation using wild yeasts. It was aged for 11 to 13 months in combination of first, second, and third use French oak barrels. The fragrant, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose is slightly reductive with lovely spicy, dark fruit, blackberry, and violet aromas with savoury, earthy undertones. It's dry with very good concentration on the medium+ bodied palate, along with ripe with dark fruited, plummy, blackberry, grapey, and spice flavours accented with savoury earth and violet notes. It's supported by juicy, succulent acidity and smooth, refined, and well-structured tannins. Savoury, peppery, and dark berry notes with hints of mineral linger on the long, gently grippy finish. Score: 90 pts

CATENA HIGH MOUNTAIN VINES CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2022 - Mendoza, Argentina (#985002) (XD) - $22.95 $20.95 until Jan. 5
This blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot was fermented with wild yeasts in stainless steel tanks, and aged in a mix of first, second, and third-use French oak barrels for 11-13 months. Fragrant, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose is dark fruited and plummy with blackberry, black currant, savoury oak spice, and earthy aromas with hints of purple fruit. It's dry, medium-full bodied, and ripe on the palate with plummy black fruit, blackberry, currant, savoury earth, and oak spice flavour replays supported by clean, juicy acidity and smooth, refined, integrated, and well-structured tannins. Some cassis, sweet black fruits, and peppery spice add interest on the mid-palate, while savoury earth, black fruit, and peppery notes linger on the long, balanced, and slightly chalky-grippy textured finish. Score: 89 pts

Other fine wines by Catena Zapata can be found at the LCBO, or ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Castelli del Grevepesa Clemente VII Chianti Classico 2020 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious Chianti Classico that arrived at the LCBO earlier this month and featured on the back cover of the November 2nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by the modern, co-operative winery of Castelli del Grevepesa, which was established in 1965 by visionary Sir Armando Nunzi and an initial group of 17 winegrowers located in different areas of Florentine Chianti Classico. These winegrowers came together in the 1960s because these were difficult years in the Chianti winegrowing region. Their aim was, by working together, to safeguard the land and maintain the age-old traditions of Tuscan winegrowing with the long-established know-how that farmers passed on from one generation to the next. The growers of Grevepesa also had a shared ambition to introduce innovative production methods and techniques, which included careful grape selection and a rigorously controlled vinification process, to produce high quality wines at affordable prices in compliance with the strict regulations of the law and the consortium of Consorzio Gallo Nero, which is now called Consorzio del Chianti Classico.

Today, Castelli del Grevepesa is made up of more than 120 passionate and hard-working associate winegrowers, and is the largest Chianti Classico family. Castelli del Grevepesa is situated in the village of San Casciano Val di Pesa, within the Greve in Chianti subzone of Chianti Classico. The logo of Castelli del Grevepesa is an iris flower that grows naturally between the villages of Val di Greve and Val di Pesa. As a perennial flower, the iris resists both the sweltering heat of summer and the winter frost, and is a symbol of the solidity of Castelli del Grevepesa and its unbreakable bond with Florentine culture and traditions.

The mission of Castelli del Grevepesa's is to be guardians of hundreds of years of tradition, as their ancestors taught them that wine comes, first and foremost, from the vineyard. The family of Grevepesa winegrowers are committed to promoting the land and safeguarding the traditions of ancient craftsmanship. As one of the first co-operative wineries in Italy, one of their founding values is that fine quality wine must be for everyone and is a source of great pride and satisfaction. As a family's duty, Castelli del Grevepesa's policy seeks to reconcile environmental, social, and economic objectives. The fundamental pillar is for the ethical enhancement and protection of natural resources by reducing waste of any kind, followed by respecting the earth, protecting the surrounding biodiversity, and responsibly ensuring that future generations are not compromised. In 2021, their formal project for environmental sustainability finally took shape and got off the ground.

Like the lovely 2019 Castelli del Grevepesa Clemente VII Chianti Classico that I enjoyed in May of last year, the 2020 vintage of this Chianti Classico is also crafted using 100% Sangiovese. The grapes were grown in their vineyards in Campoli, within the municipality of San Casciano in Val di Pesa, Chianti Classico. The vineyards are situated on hills rising up from an alluvial plateau with geological formations of Sillano and Alberese stones. The vines average 15-25 years old, and were trained using the Guyot, spurred cordon system. After handpicking and selecting the best grapes in the second half of September, the grapes were softly crushed and fermented at a thermostatically controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks, with maceration on the skins for 12-15 days. The wine underwent malolactic fermentation in concrete tanks, and was then matured for 12 months - 85% in Slavonian oak cask and 15% in French oak barriques - followed by 3 months in bottle for further refinement.

The 2020 growing season in Chianti Classico was marked by spring frosts that reduced yields. However, the warm summer season and early harvest resulted in ripe, fleshy, and fruit-filled reds. Moreover, the pandemic allowed winegrowers to concentrate their efforts towards every aspect of cultivation, vineyard management, and production. Let's see how this 2020 Chianti Classico from Tuscany is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CASTELLI DEL GREVEPESA CLEMENTE VII CHIANTI CLASSICO 2020 - Sustainable, DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#421388) (XD) - $22.95
This 100% Sangiovese has a medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that is fresh and ripe with sweet dark red cherry, currant, and clove aromas mingling with oak spices, cinnamon, and underbrush, with touches of dried berry/floral notes. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate it has very ripe dark red cherry, clove spice, cinnamon, oak spice, and underbrush flavours supported by fresh and succulent acidity. Ripe tannins have a fine, dusty texture and a supple grip. Touch of bitterness on the back palate, while the savoury cocoa and oak notes linger on the mineral-tinged finish, with very good length. Enjoy this recommended buy over the near term. Score: 88+ pts

A couple of wines by Castelli del Grevepesa are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group, with a couple available as Black Friday Specials.

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