First image of this post
  • Date publishedSunday, January 4, 2026

Boutari Naoussa Red 2022 (Greece) - Wine Review

red wine review is a lovely Xinomavro (ksee-NOH-mah-vroh) from Naoussa in northern Greece. A perennial favourite, this latest vintage arrived at the LCBO in the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, with plenty of bottles still available for purchase across Ontario.

It is produced by one of Greece's most historic and influential wineries - Boutari. It was established by Ioannis Boutaris with a winery bearing his name in 1879 in Naoussa, Macedonia in northern Greece. By 1906, Mr. Boutaris built the city's first privately-owned winery and retail cellar, while also launching the production of the first Greek red wine that was bottled under the now-renowned "Naoussa Boutari" label.

In the mid-1930s, Stelios Boutaris, son of Ioannis, took over the reins of the family winery and began exporting their wines to export markets, while also opening a second winery in Naoussa. In 1968, Giannis and Konstantinos Boutaris, the two sons of Stelios took over the winery and propelled it to new heights and shaped it into what it is today, including a shift to focus on viticulture. In 1978, Boutari inaugurated their new, state-of-the-art winery in Stenimachos, Naoussa, which remains the centre of their production, ageing, and bottling processes to this day. Boutari's success culminated with the Naoussa Boutari label making Wine Spectator's Top 100 of 2013 list.

In 2022, Boutari Wineries turned a new chapter when it became a member of Sterner Stenhus Greece group. While Boutari is now under new ownership, the vision for the winery is to respect the historic name that is synonymous with Greek wine, while also promising to continue the long-standing tradition of Boutari wineries and develop them further.

The wineries of Boutari are located in Greece's most important wine-producing regions, which allows the producer to explore the potential and specificities of each region and to highlight both the region itself and its varieties. Arguably, Naoussa is the most important Greek wine region and Boutari's headquarters are in Naoussa, a region of Macedonia on the eastern edge of Vermio. Boutari's journey began in Naoussa, and with it, Greek wine was introduced to the world. As a key player in Greek winemaking and one of the country's most historic wineries, viticulture in the Naoussa of northern Greece is deeply rooted in their past. Boutari was instrumental in the preservation of the indigenous Xinomavro grape, as well as the promotion and recognition of the variety and the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) zone of Naoussa. All of this was achieved by producing excellent and historically significant wines.

Boutari has also taken steps to introduce sustainability practices by optimizing the vineyard and wine processes in order to produce wines of endearing taste, identity, and character. In their vineyards, Boutari applies organic farming principles, while respecting their environmental footprint. Moreover, they treat the vine as part of the ecosystem and focus on strengthening its natural defences and resilience.

First bottled at the beginning of the 20th century, this red wine is the most emblematic wine of modern Greek wine history. This wine is also one of the first Greek red bottled PDO wines and constitutes a landmark for red wines in Greece. Like the previous vintage - the lovely 2021 Boutari Naoussa Xinomavro that I enjoyed last year - this red wine is also crafted with 100% Xinomavro, although it doesn't mention this anywhere on the front label and is stated in quite small letters on the back label. To vinify this wine, the grapes were cold-macerated for 24 hours, with a small percentage bled off for rosé production. It underwent a controlled alcoholic fermentation with selected yeast strains at 20°C–27°C, with gentle extraction with few pumpovers, and was followed by malolactic fermentation. It was aged for 12 months in 5th- and 6th-use French oak barrels, and filtered using sheet filtration prior to bottling.

The growing season in Naoussa in 2022 began intensely cold, with intervals of rain, which resulted in increased bud fertility and the ensuing increase in yields. March and April were colder and wetter than average, with a later bud break, while temperatures returned to typical by early May. The summer ripening season was mostly mild, except for a heatwave in the first half of August, while September began with notable rainfall, along with typically high temperatures during the day and low temperatures at night. From a vintage that produced very good to excellent results, let's see how this 2022 Xinomavro from Naoussa, Greece, is tasting tonight...

Boutari Naoussa Red 2022 (90+ pts)

Tasting Note:

BOUTARI NAOUSSA RED 2022 - PDO Naoussa, Macedonia, Greece (#23218) (XD) - $19.95
This 100% Xinomavro has a medium+ intensity nose that seems a bit shy initially, offering an enticing mix of sun-dried tomato, rose petals, spice, ripe red cherry, and savoury earth aromas accented with leafy herbs. The medium+ bodied palate is well-structured with ripe tannins and fresh acidity supporting the red cherry, rose floral, sun-dried tomato, and leafy herb flavours in a nicely balanced profile. More savoury with earth, cedary oak, and spice notes on the mid-palate, alongside a crisp mouthfeel and gently chalky textured tannins. Sun-dried tomato, cherry, and rose florals taper to earthy notes on the long, savoury, and mineral-tinged finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

A few wines by Boutari are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.


First image of this post
  • Date publishedThursday, January 1, 2026

Torbreck Woodcutter's Semillon 2024 (Barossa) - Wine Review

Happy New Year! To start off 2026, white wine review is an excellent Semillon from the Barossa Valley in Australia. It arrived at the LCBO - along with its companion Shiraz - late last year in the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, and both are readily available for purchase today.

It is produced by Torbreck Vintners, a wine producer that was established in the Barossa Valley by David Powell in 1994. The winery is named after a forest in Scotland where David worked as a lumberjack. Mr. Powell gained his winemaking experience at various Barossa wineries and was inspired to create his own label. He began to share-farm vineyards in order to obtain fruit from some of the Barossa Valley's very best vineyards. Torbreck takes its inspiration from France's Rhône Valley, while championing the rich viticultural heritage of the Barossa.

In 2008, Pete and Terri Kight entered into a partnership with Torbreck and eventually took over the business in 2013. Today, proprietors Pete and Terri are dedicated to establishing Torbreck among the world's leading wine producers. They remain focused on this journey by staying true to their core vision, rather than following trends or fashions. With provenance at its heart, the Barossa and its Mediterranean climate and 175 years of winemaking heritage provide an extraordinary foundation for Torbreck wines. While they have achieved much over the first three decades, their journey is far from complete as they continue to look forward.

Torbreck sources fruit from some of the finest vineyards in the Barossa, and they constantly seek to understand the difference between all of these special places. Moreover, they seek to understand how the fruit reacts to the seasons and how this combination of soil and climate and farming experience is reflected in unique grape flavours. This requires patience, as well as a gentle hand in the winemaking process. Torbreck respects the vineyard and the wine, as they are simply custodians. Led by General Manager and Chief Winemaker Ian Hongell, the team of experienced winemakers and viticulturists bring a deep understanding of the region's terroir and expertise to ensure that every bottle of wine reflects the artistry, intensity, and elegance for which Torbreck is renowned.

Semillon has always found a natural home in the Barossa, going back to when it was first planted by settlers around 160 years ago. It has succeeded in this area due to the Mediterranean climate and careful farming, to create a heritage of old, low-yielding Semillon vineyards. The Semillon for this wine is exclusively the age-old, robust, and pink-skinned Madeira clone, which is found mainly in the Barossa.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Semillon that was grown in the sub-regions of Rowland Flat, Ebenezer, and Lyndoch, within the Barossa Valley. The grapes were harvested throughout the month of February and traditionally vinified. The wine was matured for 3 months, with 60% in stainless steel tank and the remainder in seasoned French barrique. The resulting wine is reminiscent of the savoury white wines found in the central and southern regions of France.

The 2024 vintage in Barossa saw timely spring rainfall and calm conditions for flowering and fruit set. An idyllic summer featured mild to warm temperatures, which propelled even growth and fruit development. While yields were variable and below average, the quality is exceptional across the board. Let's see how this 2024 Semillon from the Barossa Valley is tasting tonight...

Torbreck Woodcutter's Semillon 2024 (92 pts)

Tasting Note:

TORBRECK WOODCUTTER'S SEMILLON 2024 - Barossa Valley, South Australia (#927541) (XD) - $29.95
Screw cap enclosure. The restrained, medium+ intensity nose delivers attractive lemon citrus, white floral, and garden herb aromas accented with leesy minerals and a touch of spice. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate it is well-structured and ripe with lovely lemon citrus, grapefruit, white floral flavours joined by straw, paraffin, waxy, earthy mineral, and spice accents adding complexity. It has clean, crisp, and refreshing acidity, while the well-structured mid-palate is crisp with a slightly chalky textured mouthfeel. Spice and lemon citrus notes taper to savoury minerals on the crisp, and very long finish. Very youthful at this stage, this will gain further complexity and interest as it ages over the next dozen years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Quite a few wines by Torbreck are available on the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.


First image of this post
  • Date publishedTuesday, December 30, 2025

Cape Pastoral Organic Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot 2023 (South Africa) - Wine Review

For my final wine review of the year, red wine review is a delicious, organic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from South Africa that arrived at the LCBO in the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Cape Pastoral, a wine brand based in the Western Cape wine region of South Africa that is focused on crafting organic wines with minimal intervention.

The Western Cape is known for not only its rural beauty, including fauna and flora, but also its grape growers and winemakers, who are well-grounded as the primary preservers of the region's grape-growing soil. Cape Pastoral wines are the result of a harmonious relationship between the Western Cape's grape-growing soil, weather elements, and the natural response of the winemakers to transform the grapes into tasteful wines.

This ethos is reflected on the label of each Cape Pastoral wine. This wine has flowing shades of orange which represent the sun and its role as core source of earth’s energy, while the spots refer to the dispersal of seeds that happens naturally without human interference. The bee is an important pollinator of crops which are facing the threat of deforestation. Together, these visual elements tie into the pastoral style of creative works that idealize rural life and landscapes, while also alluding to the harmony that can exist when humans take a hands-off approach to nature.

Although I was not able to get the exact composition at the time of this post, this red wine is composed of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The grapes were grown and certified organically. After harvesting the grapes, they arrived at the cellar and were meticulously sorted by a sorting machine to ensure only the finest grapes were vinified. It was fermented using natural yeasts, and spent a considerable amount of time on its lees to create a creamy, textured mouthfeel. It also spent some time in oak to add spice characters and soften the tannins.

The growing season for the 2023 vintage in South Africa's winelands was generally dry and warm, with budbreak occurring slightly earlier than average. Conditions were optimal in spring and early summer, with abundant rains early in the season, just before veraison, which aided fruit quality. A cool and wet summer prolonged ripening, while unseasonal rains that arrived in March prolonged the harvest into April for many. This meant that picking decisions and careful vinification was required for late-ripening varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon. From a vintage that was cool and long with reduced yields, let's see how this 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from South Africa is tasting tonight...

Cape Pastoral Organic Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot 2023 (88+ pts)

Tasting Note:

CAPE PASTORAL ORGANIC CABERNET SAUVIGNON / MERLOT 2023 - WO Western Cape, South Africa (#36978) (XD) - $13.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this organic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot has a lifted, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose of dark fruit and cedary oak spice aromas layered over currant, cassis, earth, and black plum, with hints of chocolate. The dry, medium-full bodied palate has pleasant dark berry, currant, cassis, and oak spice flavours joined by green herbs, savoury earth, and cocoa notes. Clean and well-made with crisp acidity, while the refined and textured tannins are gently grippy. Crisp and juicy with savoury earth, oak spice, and mocha chocolate notes on the lengthy finish. Pleasantly surprised and a recommended buy. Score: 88+ pts

There is only one other wine by Cape Pastoral and it can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.


First image of this post
  • Date publishedSunday, December 28, 2025

Escarpment Noir Pinot Noir 2023 (New Zealand) - Wine Review

red wine review is an excellent Pinot Noir from Martinborough in New Zealand. It made its debut at the LCBO in last month's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Escarpment Winery, a wine producer that was founded in 1999 as a joint venture between Larry and Sue McKenna of Martinborough, and Robert and Mem Kirby of Australia. However, the driving force of Escarpment was Larry, who grew up near South Australia's McLaren Vale and had been a pioneer winemaker in Martinborough since 1986.

Escarpment is located on Te Muna Road, in Martinborough's famed alluvial gravel soils that were formed by the Huangarua River over 20,000 years ago. The winery is named after the long, steep slope that lies at the end of a plateau, which is their unique place within Martinborough. Their site also has ancient alluvial soils that run deep beneath the land, while big, open skies stretch across the Wairarapa. Escarpment Winery's purpose is to translate the natural balance that exists here into wines that reflect these special attributes, this special part of Aotearoa, New Zealand.

Today, Escarpment Winery is one of New Zealand's most respected cool-climate wine producers. In 2019, Escarpment was acquired by Torbreck Vintners of Barossa Valley, South Australia. In 2022, Larry retired and left his legacy in the capable hands of Viticulturist, Rowan Hoskins and Winemaker, Tim Bourne.

The vision at Escarpment is to continue to produce wines that capture a unique sense of place. Situated in their unique place on Te Muna Road, their home vineyard has 24 hectares of distinctive alluvial gravel and terraced land that stretches out along the banks of the Huangarua River. The alluvial loam soil in this vineyard has very deep alluvial gravels layered over loam, a composition which ensures exceptional drainage and is one of the key prerequisites for nurturing and producing premium quality, healthy grape vines. Escarpment sources fruit for their wines from one of their four vineyards, as well as from growers around the Martinborough township with whom they have long-term relationships with.

Escarpment Winery has several lines of wines in its portfolio and is particularly known for its single vineyard expressions of Pinot Noir. This particular Pinot Noir is from their "Varietal Pinot" line, which is their commitment to the future expansion of their key varieties. Furthermore, the Varietal Pinot line is about exploring boundaries, a key philosophy that is exhibited in their winemaking approach.

This red wine is crafted with 100% Pinot Noir that was grown in the North Island district of Martinborough. Part of Escarpment Winery's ethos is to explore boundaries to create wines of interest and complexity. This wine brings together over three decades of winemaking experience to craft a Pinot Noir using traditional techniques from fruit grown on the Martinborough terrace. Upon arriving at the winery, the harvested grapes were destemmed into open-top vessels and fermented using indigenous yeast. The average time in vat was 23 days, after which the wine was pressed off and aged in predominately older French barriques for about 10 months, with 16% new French oak. Each parcel was vinified and matured separately, with the resulting wine a blend of 36 individual parcels, and was bottled without fining.

The 2023 vintage in Martinborough was a difficult one due to sustained wet weather and cyclone activity. The wet and cool conditions began in autumn 2022 and persisted right through to autumn 2023, which made all vineyard activities extremely difficult and expensive as more passes through the vineyard were required because growth continued throughout the season and disease pressure was immense. Crops were constantly thinned, and low temperatures and high soil moisture levels meant ripening was slow and protracted. Pinot Noir was in good condition because the varietal is later to budburst and ripen, and was thus less advanced when Cyclone Gabrielle hit. From a trying vintage, let's see how this 2023 Pinot Noir from Martinborough is tasting tonight...

Escarpment Noir Pinot Noir 2023 (92+ pts)

Tasting Note:

ESCARPMENT NOIR PINOT NOIR 2023 - Martinborough, North Island, New Zealand (#41810) (XD) - $29.95
Enclosed by screw cap. The highly engaging nose has medium-high intensity aromas with an intriguing mix of rose floral, earthy beet root, black spices, dark cherry, cranberry, and savoury minerals, plus strawberry accents. On the dry, light-to-medium bodied palate it shows impressive structure and textured tannins. Lovely, complex, and ripe flavours of black cherry, cranberry, strawberry, beet root, spices, and savoury minerals. Touch creamy on the mid-palate, which gives way to a mildly grippy back palate. Acids are crisp and juicy. It's well-balanced throughout with dark red berry notes tapering to savoury spice, and earthy minerals on the crisp finish, with excellent length. Should improve further with a few years in the cellar and drink well for at least 5+ years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92+ pts

Other fine wines by Escarpment can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.


First image of this post
  • Date publishedFriday, December 26, 2025

Maison Fontan Tattoo T&M Rouge 2022 (Southwest France) - Wine Review

red wine review is a delicious blend of Tannat and Merlot that is brand-new to the LCBO. It arrived both online and in-store as part of last month's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on .

It is produced by Maison Fontan, an historic, family-owned wine estate located in the comune of Noulens, within the Gers department of southwestern France. The Fontan family's story begins when the first generation moved to Maubet Farm in Noulens in 1907.

The family farmed this land for 4 generations, eventually moving from polyculture farming to organized viticulture in the 1980s thanks to the passion and initiatives of Aline and Jean-Claude Fontan, the third generation of the family. Aline and Jean-Claude also played a pivotal role by helping instigate the development of Côtes de Gascogne wines.

In 2001, siblings Sylvain and Nadège Fontan, the son and daughter of Aline and Jean-Claude, took over the reins of the vineyard and continued to develop the estate. Sylvain is the winemaker and cellar master, and by enhancing the grapes he makes a range of Côtes de Gascogne wines and Armagnacs. Nadège handles marketing and sales, and ensures that their vineyard products are available at wine merchants and the best restaurants.

Formerly Domaine de Maubet, the estate was rebranded in 2021 as Maison Fontan. The house which their great-grandparents moved to is more than just a vineyard - it is a place where people live, come together and work, and where the natural world is listened to and respected. Nestled in the middle of vines, the traditional Gascon half-timbered building welcomes visitors with open arms and a warm embrace, and is a place where people feel good.

Today, Sylvain and Nadège continue down the pathway forged by their great-grandparents with immense pride and unfailing courage. The siblings also have passion and respect for their forebears and the natural environment that surrounds them. With the elegance of their vines heralding sophisticated wines and eau-de-vie, the entire team at Maison Fontan is also focused on conserving the ecosystem, taking great care, and innovating. Maison Fontan is the hallmark of a family identity with shared and continuously upheld values.

Maison Fontan has always practiced sustainable winegrowing, while common sense is de rigueur, and respect is inherent. The family also respects nature and the environment, and has the belief that if they nourish the soil to the right extent, and if they take care of it, it will give their vines the best grapes. The family also believes in being thorough and mindful during all the phases of production, from soil to glass, in order to make a safe, appealing, and carefully-controlled product of consistently high quality.

This red wine is from their "Les Tattoo" range of wines which are original, daring, and bold. The Tattoo wines combine local grape varietals with innovative winemaking methods to produce gourmet wines that may come as a surprise. This particular red wine is crafted using a blend of 50% Tannat and 50% Merlot which were grown on clay-limestone and highly-compacted sandy/silty soil. After harvesting the grapes, they were destalked and placed into vats for 5 days of maceration. The grapes were fermented between 25°C–30°C, depending on the vintage, with one pumpover and two rack and returns. The juice is run off before malolactic fermentation, and is judged and tasted daily before finally undergoing filtration and kept in vat until bottling.

In 2022, the growing season in the Southwest of France featured black frosts, violent hailstorms, and severe summer drought. In spite of these challenges, the result was a significantly small harvest but with excellent quality. Let's see how this 2022 Tannat & Merlot from Côtes de Gascogne is tasting tonight...

Maison Fontan Tattoo T&M Rouge 2022 (88 pts)

Tasting Note:

MAISON FONTAN TATTOO T&M ROUGE 2022 - IGP Côtes de Gascogne, Southwest, France (#43894) (D) - $18.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this 50/50 blend of Tannat and Merlot has a medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that is ripe and fruit forward with plummy, dark fruit, blackberry, cassis, black cherry, and currant aromas with hints of licorice. The medium-full bodied palate is dry-ish with plummy, black cherry, and cassis flavours with touches of spice and mineral adding a savoury component. It has fresh and juicy acidity, alongside supple, rounded, and mildly textured tannins. Comes off a little sweet, but finishes crisp and dry with black cherry, cassis, and a lingering minerality. The finish length is very good. Crafted in a crowd-pleasing style. Score: 88 pts

Other delicious wines by Maison Fontan can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.


First image of this post
  • Date publishedTuesday, December 23, 2025

Rémy Ferbras Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2023 (France) - Wine Review

red wine review is the latest vintage of this terrific Côtes du Rhône-Villages that arrived at the LCBO in last month's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

This red wine is produced by Rémy Ferbras at Grandes Serres. Rémy Ferbras is a wine brand anchored in the Southern Rhône Valley, in the heart of the prestigious Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation. It is owned by Maison Grandes Serres, which is in turn owned by Picard Vins & Spiritueux, and pays tribute to the winery's first cellar master - Rémy Ferbras.

As an emblematic character of the house, Rémy Ferbras was a fervent defender of the Rhône Valley terroir and its grape varieties. Rémy always aimed to express the full potential of the grapes and terroir from this renowned wine region, and contributed with his work and tenacity to expand the house and his notoriety. The Rémy Ferbras signature is synonymous with rigorous and precise selection, vinification, and ageing, values which remain with the brand. Furthermore, the wines of Rémy Ferbras are consistently rich, elegant, complex, and flavourful.

Like the 2022 Rémy Ferbras Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages I enjoyed last year, this red wine is crafted using the same 4 grapes that were grown in the Côtes du Rhône-Villages appellation of Plan de Dieu. The named village appellation of Plan de Dieu, or "God's Plain", is a vast, flat terrace covered in vines, and makes more wine than any other Named Village. The plain lies in the Southern Rhone Valley, between the Aygues and Ouvèze rivers, which feed into the Rhône River from the east. Over thousands of years, the rivers laid down a deep bed of pebbles and clay that is perfect for cultivating vines. The vineyards in Plan de Dieu bask in the sun and are cooled by the north wind. The homogeneous terroir of Plan de Dieu has a Mediterranean climate influenced by the Mistral wind, while the soil consists of clay, limestone, and sands. As a red wine appellation, the main grape is Grenache, with Syrah and Mourvèdre in supporting roles. Grenache loves this stony, arid plateau, which used to be covered with a vast garrigue forest.

In this particular vintage, this red wine is composed of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 5% Cinsault, and 5% Mourvèdre, from vines planted in mainly limestone chippings and brown clay. The grapes were picked at optimum harvest maturity. Each grape varietal was traditionally and separately vinified. After two weeks of maceration, the grapes underwent alcoholic fermentation between 26°C and 28°C, followed by malolactic fermentation, then blended and bottled.

The growing season in 2023 began with a dry start, and a relatively late bud burst. Late-spring rains in May and June were welcome, which preceded a warm and arid summer, with the fierce heat remaining until the end of August. It was a season that suited clay soils, rather than sandy soils. While the season did present some challenges, it is considered to be a very good vintage for red wines from the Southern Rhône. Let's see how this 2023 Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages is tasting tonight...

Rémy Ferbras Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2023 (90+ pts)

Tasting Note:

RÉMY FERBRAS PLAN DE DIEU CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES 2023 - AOP, France (#538009) (XD) - $17.95
This blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 5% Cinsault, and 5% Mourvèdre has a deep, medium-high intensity nose that offers warming black raspberry, garrigue, black cherry, floral, and spice aromas accented with stony mineral and earth notes that gain prominence with time in the glass. The medium+ to medium-full bodied palate is dry and well-structured with delicious and complex black raspberry, black cherry, licorice, stony mineral, garrigue, earth, and spice flavours. It's supported by crisp and juicy acidity, alongside mouth-coating, grainy textured tannins. Shows good balance with savoury, stony mineral notes lingering on the long, crisp finish. Should drink well over next 5+ years and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Only one wine (all in one store) from Rémy Ferbras is available at the LCBO, while the full range of wines can be ordered through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.


First image of this post
  • Date publishedSunday, December 21, 2025

Umani Ronchi Podere Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2023 (Italy) - Wine Review

red wine review is a delicious, organic, and unoaked Montepulciano from Abruzzo that made its debut at the LCBO in last month's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Umani Ronchi, a leading wine producer that was founded by Gino Umani Ronchi within the comune of Cupramontana, in the heart of the Verdicchio Classico production zone of Marche. A few years later, he formed a partnership with the Bianchi family, with Roberto Bianchi and his son-in-law, Massimo Bernetti, eventually taking over the company in 1968. In 1990, Michele Bernetti, son of Massimo, joined the company as General Sales Manager.

In 2001, Umani Ronchi purchased 30 hectares of organic vineyards in Abruzzo, which signalled the beginning of a new venture. Today, the Bianchi-Bernetti families own and manage over 210 hectares of vineyards across Marche and Abruzzo, all of which are organically farmed and nestled between the hills and the sea along the Adriatic coast from Serra de' Conti in Marche in the north to Roseto degli Abruzzi in the south. Their philosophy is based on sustainability and green viticulture, with a strong ethical approach and deep respect for the environment and its biodiversity. Their guiding principles are manifested through precision viticulture, vineyard management, and the use of organic fertilizers. They also use low-impact packaging, lightweight glass bottles, and photovoltaic energy, which covers about half of the winery's annual needs. Umani Ronchi is deeply committed and recognized for its ecological and sustainable values.

This particular wine is from Umani Ronchi's Abruzzo range of wines, which are grown in a unique, alluvial soil whose top layer features sandy-clay loam that allows the vines through the gravel below, giving rise to wines of superb minerality. Moreover, the presence of the nearby Gran Sasso mountain and the winds off the Adriatic Sea allow for notable diurnal temperatures, which helps the grapes develop their aromatic qualities.

Crafted with 100% Montepulciano grapes, this red wine is named "Podere", or Farm. The grapes were obtained from vineyard farms predominantly located in the provinces of Chieti and Teramo. The vines were trained using the tendone system, which is the most widespread vine training system in Abruzzo and known for being fairly productive. When the tendone system is used with the correct balance, it can yield grapes of excellent quality. The grapes for this wine were hand-harvested from the end of September through the first ten days of October. Upon arriving at the winery, the grapes are macerated for up to 10 days in steel fermenting vats, followed by alcoholic and then malolactic fermentation. The wine was matured in steel for about 4 months, then rested for a short period in bottle prior to release.

The 2023 vintage in Abruzzo was marked by two important events - one positive and one negative. The positive is that wines from the 2023 vintage onward allow for the mention of subzones, along with stricter production rules, in order to achieve recognition and form a stronger bond between grape variety and territory. On the downside, the crop from the 2023 growing season was devastated by downy mildew. Being an organic wine producer, Umani Ronchi was able to fend off some of the fungus, which resulted in a production loss of 25% less than the historical average. After a challenging first part of the vintage, climatic conditions were ideal from August to October, which allowed the Montepulciano grapes to achieve optimal phenolic ripeness. While quantities were low, quality was generally excellent.

Umani Ronchi's version of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo wines are intended to be an interpretation of the vine which exalts the varietal characteristics and freshness, and combines these qualities with just the right amount of charm and softness to create a pleasant and drinkable wine that complements many different kinds of dishes. Let's see how this 2023 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is tasting tonight...

Umani Ronchi Podere Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2023 (89 pts)

Tasting Note:

UMANI RONCHI PODERE MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO 2023 - DOC, Italy (#46567) (XD) - $17.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this organic and unoaked Montepulciano has an open, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that offers perfumed aromas of rustic wild berries, black cherry, currant, and dried herbal spice characters nuanced with touches of bramble, licorice, and floral notes. The ripe, medium+ bodied palate is dry with delicious black cherry, wild berry, currant, dried herbal spice, and licorice flavours framed by crisp and juicy acidity. The medium-firm, fine-grained tannins are well-structured. The black cherry notes taper to savoury, earthy, and mineral notes on the juicy, very long, and slightly tannic finish. Should continue to drink well over the next 3-4 years and is a recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Small quantities of other fine wines by Umani Ronchi are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.


Blog Archive

Posts by Tag

Recent Posts

Recent Posts Widget