Gorghi Tondi Maremeo Sauvignon Blanc 2025 and Dumè Frappato 2025 (Sicily) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of lovely, organic wines from Sicily. Both made their first appearance at the LCBO this month, with the Frappato arriving as part of the feature on chilled red wines in the June 6 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, while the Sauvignon Blanc landed over the weekend in the June 20 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Both of these wines are produced by Tenuta Gorghi Tondi, a family-owned estate winery whose story begins with Dora Sala, the matriarch of the family and great-grandmother of sisters Annamaria and Clara Sala, who had a great love for nature, grapes, and the land. Dora was a strong, far-sighted, and innovative woman who was an inspiration to all the women in the family.

Situated in the extreme western part of the island of Sicily, Tenuta Gorghi Tondi was formally founded in 2000 by Michele, who had worked in the business for over forty years, and his wife, Doretta, who is the granddaughter of Dora. A few years later, their daughters, Annamaria and Clara, returned home from their careers and were surrounded by the family vineyards and wines, while facing a new challenge to build a future and bringing back the old dream of crafting premium wines in Sicily.

Today, Tenuta Gorghi Tondi is led by the two sisters, Annamaria and Clara, who carry on with the same determination and love for the land. The Sala family has always had a strong bond with their territory, especially the High, Medium, and Low "whirlpools" (the so-called "Gorghi") that are at the heart of an oasis, which is also the inspiration for the name of the winery - Gorghi Tondi, or Round Whirlpools. They have two properties within the Mazara del Vallo countryside, named Ramisella and San Nicola, and cover over 130 hectares of vines which overlook the horizon and are cradled by the sea breeze in Western Sicily. The winemaking philosophy at Gorghi Tondi is to produce high-quality organic and sustainable wines, in harmony with a unique and naturally gifted terroir.

As organic viticulture and sustainability are core values at Tenuta Gorghi Tondi, all the grapes are grown organically and certified since 2016, without the use of any synthetic chemicals. Emergency irrigation is practiced only if absolutely necessary to maintain the authentic aromas and flavours of the grapes. On the sustainability front, Gorghi Tondi uses clean energy to allow for sustainable development and to protect the ecosystem. In 2025, Gorghi Tondi achieved their VIVA and SOStain Sicilia certifications, which verifies their commitment to environmental performance, biodiversity protection, responsible water use, carbon footprint management, and sustainable vineyard practices.

First crafted in the 2021 vintage, the Maremeo is the Sicilian expression of Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes were grown at approximately 25 metres above sea level in southwestern Sicily, in the countryside area of Mazara del Vallo, province of Trapani, in Contrada San Nicola. It comes from younger vines planted in calcareous and sandy soil that daily breathes the coastal breezes. This wine is from Gorghi Tondi's "Wines of Good Cheer" line, which aims to capture the essence of summer and the vital joy of the Mediterranean Sea's foam.

The Frappato comes from the same Contrada as the Sauvignon Blanc and was first produced in the 2017 vintage. The Dumè represents a fascinating original in the winemaking history of Tenuta Gorghi Tondi as they decided to test themselves for the first time with the indigenous Frappato, one of eastern Sicily's oldest and famous grape varieties. In the Sicilian dialect, the name Dumè literally means "ours or in our way", and Dumè was created with the desire to interpret this historic grape through the unique lens of the Mazara del Vallo terroir. The label for this wine is a lively tribute to the island's art and culture, and is inspired by the iconic geometries and colours of Sicilian ceramics.

In 2025, the growing season in Sicily featured balanced climatic conditions, resulting in fresh, balanced wines of good quality, with coastal areas and those at higher altitudes particularly standing out. Let's see how this 2025 Sauvignon Blanc and 2025 Frappato from Sicily are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

GORGHI TONDI MAREMEO SAUVIGNON BLANC 2025 - DOC Sicilia, Italy (#49062) (XD) - $19.95
The fresh, medium-high intensity nose offers a fine and intriguing mix of ripe lemon citrus and sea spray aromas nuanced with passion fruit, tropical fruit, peach, saline mineral, and grapefruit. On the dry, medium+ to medium-full bodied palate it is well-structured and lightly honeyed with spiced flavours ripe lemon, citrus, saline mineral, tropical fruit, and peach. It has juicy, well-balanced acidity, alongside a mineral textured mouthfeel on the mid-palate. Juicy, saline mineral and lemon notes taper to savoury on the long, textured finish. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

GORGHI TONDI DUMÈ FRAPPATO 2025 - DOC Sicilia, Italy (#50571) (XD) - $22.95
100% Frappato. The medium+ to medium-high intensity nose is ripe and fruity with red berried aromas of black raspberry, cran-cherry, and strawberry joined by whiffs of smoky mineral and savoury earth. It's light-to-mid weighted on the dry palate with lovely spicy notes alongside black raspberry, strawberry, cran-cherry, and red plum flavours surrounding a core of savoury, stony minerals. It has fresh and vibrant acidity, along with slightly grippy textured tannins. The grippy mid-palate leads to raspberry and cherry notes that taper to savoury, stony mineral flavours on the long finish. Chill well for best enjoyment and a highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other fine & exciting wines by Gorghi Tondi can be ordered through their Agent - Rare Earth Wines.

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Kir-Yianni Xinomavro Rosé 2025 (Greece) - Wine Review

Tonight's rosé wine review is the latest vintage of a terrific, dry, and vegan-friendly rosé from Greece that arrived at the LCBO over the weekend in the June 6 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by the well-respected Kir-Yianni, a family-run winery that was established by the late Yiannis Boutaris in 1997. Yiannis was from the renowned Boutaris winemaking family and one of the leading figures in the Greek wine industry right up until his passing in 2024.

Kir-Yianni was founded in Amyndeon of northern Greece and expanded soon thereafter into neighbouring Naoussa to the south, within the geographic region of Macedonia. In 1999, Stellios Boutaris, son of Yiannis, became Managing Director of Kir-Yianni, and represented the fifth generation of the Boutaris family of winemakers. Stellios was joined by his brother, Mihalis, a few years later and, together, the brothers undertook a project to take Kir-Yianni to the next level of viticulture and winemaking. They began by replanting their 28 hectares of vineyards with both Greek and international varieties, but most importantly, ensuring that each varietal was planted on the most appropriate vineyard parcel.

Today, the philosophy at Kir-Yianni is based upon ensuring a fine balance between the family's hundred-year-long tradition and the use of new and innovative winemaking techniques. By taking proper care in the vineyard, including the use of sustainable practices, strict grape selection, micro-vinifing, and blending meticulously, the team at Kir-Yianni aims to ensure typicity, ageing potential, and consistent wine quality from one vintage to the next. The end goal is to produce appealing wines that reflect the potential of the Greek vineyard and its indigenous varieties, while also protecting the environment by using integrated farming principles. One of their most ambitious initiatives is to achieve carbon neutrality, a lengthy process in which they have already achieved their first two major goals within 18 months in 2024.

While last year's 2024 Kir-Yianni Xinomavro Rosé was labelled as "Vieilles Vignes" (or Old Vines), this vintage bears the name "Terres de Sable" (or Sandy Lands). It is still crafted with 100% Xinomavro that was sourced from the PGI Macedonia viticultural zone of northern Greece. The grapes were carefully selected from 40 to 60-year-old vines, from vineyards chosen for their soil, vine health, and capacity to reach full maturity. In the wider region of Macedonia, the climate experiences significant diurnal temperatures between day and night, and the variety in morphology creates excellent conditions for viticulture.

To craft this dry rosé, the grapes were rigorously sorted on a conveyor belt and direct pressed. Fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks at temperatures between 17–19°C. The wine stayed in contact with its fine lees for 3 months, with occasional bâtonnage (mild stirring).

The 2025 growing season in northern Greece was a very good-to-standout vintage, something that appears to happen in every odd-numbered vintage. While the last two harvests were marked by major challenges due to extreme weather events, 2025 was a return to relative normality, with generally typical conditions and no extreme weather phenomena. June and July were hot and dry. However, the diurnal temperature drop of 10°C at night helped preserve acidity. Cold and rainy conditions at the appropriate time, along with daytime heat and cold nights ensured that the grapes developed full aromatics and phenolic ripeness. Let's see how this 2025 Xinomavro Rosé from northern Greece is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

KIR-YIANNI XINOMAVRO ROSÉ 2025 - Vegan, PGI Macedonia, Greece (#39595) (XD) - $19.95
Enclosed by Stelvin screw cap and pours a very pale copper-salmon colour. Lovely, fresh, medium-high to highly aromatic nose is intense and complex with spice, red berry, grapefruit, citrus, white peach, and mineral aromas accented with strawberry, raspberry, and dried herbs. The mid-weighted palate is dry and slightly honeyed with delicious grapefruit, citrus, red berry, white peach, and dried spice flavours. It is well-structured with fresh and zesty acidity. Well-balanced throughout with grapefruit, red berry, spice, and white peach notes tapering to leesy minerals on the long, crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Many wines by Kir-Yianni are available at the LCBO, and can also be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Château d'Aqueria Cru des Côtes du Rhône Tavel Rosé 2025 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's rosé wine review is from Southern Rhone Cru of Tavel, which is typically a Grenache-based blend. As a perennial favourite of mine, I am delighted to see the latest vintage of this excellent, organic, and dry rosé arrive at the LCBO in this weekend's May 23 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, and is already widely available for purchase across the province.

It is produced by Château d'Aqueria, a benchmark estate considered to be one of the jewels of the Southern Rhône Valley that is situated in Cru of Tavel. The historic property was established in 1595 when Louis Joseph d'Aqueria purchased this prime vine-growing area of Tavel known as "Puy Sablonneux" from the monks at the Abbey in Villeneuve les Avignon. Robert d'Aqueria, son of Louis Joseph, and hereditary Count Palatine built a home on the site which was transformed in the 18th century into the Château as we know it today.

The Château and the surrounding area had been in the hands of numerous families since that time, until the estate was acquired in 1919 by Jean Olivier, a doctor of law. Jean passed the estate on to his daughters Mireille de Bez and Nicole Boccon-Gibod. Paul de Bez, son-in-law of Jean, took over management of the property. When Vincent and Bruno de Bez, the sons of Paul, began running the family business in 1984, it represented three generations of the family that put this historically significant place on the map as a stand-out property in the appellations of Tavel and Lirac.

Today, Château d'Aqueria is owned by the Guigal family as they took over the reins from the de Bez family in May 2022. While Château d'Aqueria has been practicing sustainable viticulture for many years, after the acquisition, the Guigal family announced that Aqueria would be converting to certified organic viticulture, and beginning with the 2025 vintage they began producing certified organic wines.

While Aqueria may be under new ownership, the philosophy at the estate remains the same — in search of excellence. Their goal is to also preserve the history and memory of the people who accompanied these excellent terroirs throughout the years. Furthermore, they are taking steps to bring to light the rich diversity of the estate by observing and understanding the land, while also maintaining the centuries-old tradition of conservation and respect for the vineyards. The vinification process at Château d'Aqueria is managed with exact precision so that each wine can offer the purest expression of these terroirs, and at the same time craft exceptional wines.

This rosé has been crafted for over 30 years and, for the first time in its history, it bears the certified organic designation beginning with the 2025 vintage. The wine is typically a blend of several varieties, and in this particular vintage it is composed of 50% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Clairette, 10% Mourvedre, 5% Cinsault, and 5% Bourboulenc. The grapes were grown on clayey-sandy hillsides, and upon harvest, each variety was carefully de-stemmed and chilled prior to placing in vats. The varieties were blended two-by-two during the 12 to 24-hour maceration phase in order to enhance aromatic complexity. Once the desired colour was obtained, the entire tank was bled and the marcs (grape pomace) pressed at length, which then goes into the free-run wine. Fermentation took place in temperature-controlled tanks for 15 days, after which the wine was matured in both stainless and concrete tanks for 6 months, then bottled and released.

The growing season in 2025 in the Southern Rhone was marked by a series of heatwaves. It began with a mild winter with sufficient rainfall to replenish the soils, followed by a balmy spring. Serious heat arrived during summer, which was beneficial for vines in Tavel, but also cut yields during this hot and fast-growing season. However, autumn rains cooled down the temperatures just enough to prevent overripening and preserve acidity and aromatics. Overall, quality is high in this vintage. Let's see how this 2025 Tavel Rosé is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU D'AQUERIA CRU DES CÔTES DU RHÔNE TAVEL ROSÉ 2025 - AOP, France (#319368) (XD) - $25.95
This lovely organic rosé is a blend of 50% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Clairette, 10% Mourvedre, 5% Cinsault, and 5% Bourboulenc. Lovely, medium-high to highly aromatic nose offers attractive and complex aromas of ripe red berry, strawberry, cherry, and cranberry nuanced with fine mineral undertones and accents of dried spice, and grapefruit citrus. The weighty, medium-full bodied palate is dry with delicious and complex red berry, dried spice, and stony mineral flavours, plus touches of grapefruit zest. It has clean, vibrant acidity, along with a slightly chalky and tannic textured mouthfeel on the slightly spicy mid-palate. Mineral notes linger on the long, textured finish. Always great and a highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

One other wine by Château d'Aqueria is available at the LCBO (in small quantities), while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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