German Wines: A Closer Look

Last month, I had an exciting opportunity to attend a webcast titled "German Wines: A Closer Look with Anne Krebiehl, MW and John Szabo, MS". As part of attending this webcast, participants were sent a fabulous selection of eight wines (listed below) so we could taste along with Anne and John.

While most would think that Germany is all about (mostly sweet) Riesling, and rightly so as it is by far the most widely planted grape in the country, this tasting offered an excellent opportunity to showcase some German wines made with other varietals, with Anne leading much of the conversation. In addition to tasting some dry Riesling, we also got to taste a pair of white wines that shine in Germany - Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder) and Pinot Gris (Grauburgunder). Germany grows the most Pinot Blanc of any country, and the 3rd most Pinot Gris. Although not widely known, Germany also makes red wines - 33% of all plantings within the country are red varieties - and all tend to be of the lighter variety. We tried a pair of Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) wines - Germany's most widely planted red grape and 3rd most globally - as well as Germany's most full-ish bodied red, Lemberger (Blaufränkisch).

Germany is known for it's vineyards that are planted on steep slopes, and just about all of these slopes border rivers that helped shape the landscape. All thirteen wine regions in Germany are located within 4 degrees latitude and have varied climates and soils, creating wines that are diverse and in a wide array of styles. We tasted wines from six wine regions - Rheinhessen, Pfalz, Baden, Ahr, Württemberg, and Mosel. Rheinhessen is the largest winegrowing region in Germany and is known as the "land of a thousand hills" as it hugs the Rhine River. Pfalz is located south of Rheinhessen and has a slightly warmer climate, producing rich, voluptuous wines. Baden is a long, warm and sunny stretch of land spanning 400 km from north to south, running along the Rhine, in the southern most part of Germany, and produces food-friendly wines primarily with Burgunder (Pinot) grapes - Noir, Blanc, and Gris.

The Ahr Valley, with its steep vineyards are located along the Ahr River that joins the Rhine River to the east, and is located south of Bonn. Ahr is known as Germany's red wine paradise, especially for its Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir). Württemberg is another region known for its red wines - it is located adjacent (to the east) of Baden and south of Franken. The area in Württemberg is rural and hilly, and the vineyards are scattered over a fairly large area.

The last region we touched upon is the world renowned Mosel, located along the Mosel River, south of Ahr and connecting to the Rhine in the east. The valleys of the Mosel River, along with its tributaries, the Saar and the Ruwer, have been settled since Roman times and have very steep, slate slopes. World class Riesling from Mosel are fragrant and minerally with finesse, vibrant acidity, and impeccable balance, ranging in styles from dry to the lusciously sweet Trockenbeerenauslese, or TBA.

It was also interesting to learn that light ripens grapes, not heat. This happens gradually and naturally in Germany because the vineyards are located at higher altitudes, along with autumns that are long and sunny. Additionally, because Germany is a bit northern in latitude, the sunlight is a little less intense, resulting in heat that hits the grapes at slightly lower temperatures. Combining long sunlight hours with lower temperatures helps create wines with moderate alcohol levels and body, crisp acidity, and lots of aromas - all qualities very apparent in German Rieslings as well as other wines.

All eight of the wines we tasted are available for purchase in one way or another - either via LCBO or Agent. After the webcast, attendees were also sent a copy of Anne Krebiehl's book that was published last year - The Wines of Germany. Overall, it was a very informative webcast and I was very pleased to have to the opportunity to attend. Thank you, Wines of Germany Canada!

Tasting Notes:

WITTMANN WEISSER BURGUNDER TROCKEN 2017 - Qualitätswein, Rheinhessen, Germany (#11654) (XD) - $24.95
This organic Pinot Blanc was grown on limestone soils around Westhofen, handpicked. and vinified in a minimal interventionist style. It has a lovely, well-balanced, and complex nose offering stone fruit, lemon citrus, and fennel aromas flecked with limestone mineral and orange notes. Nicely concentrated on the essentially dry, medium+ bodied, balanced, and crunchy fruited palate with fresh, succulent acids, and flavourful citrus, yellow fruit, white floral, and fine mineral notes. Touches of waxy notes linger on the long, minerally finish. Released in LCBO VINTAGES April 4, 2020. Agent: Brand New Day Wines & Spirits. Score: 90+ pts

A. CHRISTMANN RIESLING TROCKEN 2017 - Pfalz, Germany (XD) - $25.01
From predominantly Buntsandstein soils. Spontaneous ferment in large, used barrels and stainless steel tanks. Screw cap. Fresh and fruity nose delivers notions of apricot, ginger, melon and white pear with hints of petrol and stony-earthy minerality. The medium-full bodied palate is impressively concentrated and slightly crunchy with fresh, balanced acidity and a dry, honeyed flavour profile surrounding notes of lemon, white floral, apricot, and stony minerals. Very good length on the dry, crisp, minerally, and pithy finish. Certified biodynamic. Agent: CGU Fine Wines. Score: 90 pts

WEINGUT DREISSIGACKER GRAUBURGUNDER ORGANIC 2018 - Rheinhessen, Germany (#726066) (D) - $30
Screw cap. From loam soils, this Pinot Gris was partially barrel-fermented and has an elegant, perfumed, peach and stone fruit aromatics with a stony mineral underpinning. It's medium+ bodied on the slightly off-dry palate supported by fresh, vibrant acidity. More peach and mineral notes on the flavour profile. Stony notes linger on the long, juicy finish. Agent: DBINO. Score: 90 pts

SALWEY GBR RS SPÄTBURGUNDER VDP ORTSWEIN 2016 - Kaiserstuhl, Baden, Germany (#710193) (XD) - $44.75
The 2016 vintage was outstanding for reds, and this Pinot Noir was grown on volcanic ash, weathered basalt, and loess soils. Pretty pale ruby colour. The medium-high intensity nose offers earthy, raspberry, cherry, and beetroot aromas that mingle with spice and mineral underpinning. The palate is light-to-mid weighted with fine raspberry, cherry, spice, and mineral flavours supported by light, fine-grained, and textured tannins that have some structure, gaining volume with each passing sip. Racy acids provide freshness. Well-balanced throughout with raspberry, spice, earth, and cherry notes lingering on the long finish. Enjoy over the next 5 years. Available online at LCBO.com. Agent: Angyal Agency. Score: 91 pts

JEAN STODDEN SPÄTBURGUNDER JS 2017 - Qualitätswein, Ahr Valley, Germany (XD) - $60.76
Elegant, fragrant, and appealing nose of red cherry, earth, spices, and floral. It is medium+ bodied on the structured palate with lovely sweet spice, cherry, and earthy flavours supported by juicy, balanced acidity. Some dark berry and beet root notes add complexity on the mid-palate. Glossy, ripe tannins are full, refined, and smooth, with some tannic grip coming through with each passing sip. Complex earthy, cherry, beet root, spice, and mineral notes linger on the long finish. Enjoy to 2027. Agent: CGU Fine Wines. Score: 91+ pts

GRAF NEIPPERG LEMBERGER SCHWAIGENER RUTHE GG 2016 - Württemberg, Germany (XD) - $67.60
This Lemberger has complex spices with a mix of red and black fruit aromas, accented by earthy, stony minerality. It is light-to-medium weighted on the palate with fine-grained, lightly structured tannins and lovely black cherry, red berry, currant, and spice flavours Nicely balanced throughout with fresh acidity, while the long, curranty, stony finish has a minerally aftertaste. Agent: Angyal Agency. Score: 91 pts

CLEMENS BUSCH MARIENBURG FALKENLAY GG RIESLING TROCKEN 2016 - Mosel, Germany (#13046) (D) - $60
From 50-80 year old vines on grey slate, partially terraced soils. The medium-high to highly aromatic nose offers notions of citrus, floral, ginger, apple, peach, and melon with slatey mineral and touches of mealy aromas. The rich, medium+ bodied palate is gently sweet with vibrant acidity, making this Riesling essentially dry. Complex citrus, apple, ginger, beeswax, and orange flavours with a mineral underpinning. A touch of bitterness on the long, dry, crisp finish. A complex wine that changes a lot as it warms in the glass. Certified Biodynamic. Released in LCBO VINTAGES Classics May 7, 2020. Agent: The Livng Vine. Score: 91 pts

HOFGUT FALKENSTEIN NIEDERMENNIGER HERRENBERG RIESLING SPÄTLESE FEINHERB 2018 - Mosel, Germany (M) - $34
Riesling planted in the 1960's on weathered grey slate, very poor soils. Lovely, fragrant minerally, petrol nose joined by honey, lemon drop, peach, and citrus aromas. It's medium+ bodied on the palate with impressive depth and concentration. Medium sweet, lemon citrus, honeyed, apple, peach, and touches of mineral flavours are balanced with bright, zesty acidity. Citrus, peach, and honey with fine mineral notes linger on the finish, with excellent length. Will age 15+ years easy. Agent: Chalk, Slate, Gravel. Score: 92 pts

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Top Riesling - Wines of Germany Tasting 2016

The next post in my continuing series of wine tastings in May is the Riesling & Co. Wines of Germany tasting that was held in mid-May at the Arcadian Loft on Bay Street.

This event tends to be one of my favourite tastings of the year because I love my Rieslings, especially the wines from Germany. And while there were plenty of delicious German Riesling wines of various sweetness levels, I was a bit disappointed with the fact that very few showed the lovely petrol nose that I was seeking. Furthermore, there seems to be a growing trend of producing more dry instead of sweet Riesling in Germany. Personally, I prefer the sweeter styles.

In addition to Riesling, there were a few delicious Pinot Noirs, such as the Thörle Saulheimer Hölle Spätburgunder 2013 (90+ pts, $60). There was also the delicious Weingut Am Stein Stettener Stein Silvaner 2014 (89 pts) and a surprising Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot blend in the Frey Assemblage 2013.

My most memorable wine of the event was a German Eiswein. This was my first time ever tasting Eiswein and it was absolutely delicious - I can see why most of it never leaves the borders of Germany (because not much is made, and what ever is made is scooped up by the locals). Wine reviews of my other favourite German wines are provided below. None of these wines are available at the LCBO, but you can contact the Agent for pricing and availability.

Tasting Notes:

RAPPENHOF NIERSTEINER OELBERG RIESLING AUSLESE 2014 - Rheinhessen, Germany (S)
Highly aromatic with wet stone, mineral, lime, peach and stone fruit. The palate is sweet with balanced aroma replays and lively acids. Excellent finish length. Contact Churchill Cellars for ordering info. Score: 93 pts

SCHLOSS SCHÖNBORN JUBILÄUM HATTENHEIMER PFAFFENBERG RIESLING SPÄTLESE 2011 - Rheingau, Germany (MS)
The nose is highly aromatic, offering peach, apricot, orange, citrus and some wet stone aromas. It's medium-bodied with bright, balanced acids and very nice aroma replays. Balanced and very long finishing. Contact H.H.D. Imports for ordering info. Score: 91 pts

REICHSGRAF VON KESSELSTATT JOSEPHSHÖFER RIESLING SPÄTLESE MONOPOL 2003 - Mosel, Germany (MS)
An effervescence wine with white peach and citrus aromas and flavours, joined by apricot, honey and mature petrol notes on the medium-sweet palate. Acids are still quite juicy, finish is long-lasting. Contact H.H.D. Imports for ordering info. Score: 91 pts

JULIUS TREIS GOLDLAY RIESLING SPÄTLESE 2015 - Mosel, Germany (MS)
Medium-high intensity nose featuring white peach, apricot, citrus, pink grapefruit and stony minerality with terrific complexity. It's medium-dry with aroma replays led by orangey citrus notes. Very well balanced with finely tuned acids, and excellent finish length. Not represented in Ontario at time of tasting. Score: 91 pts

THÖRLE SAULHEIMER SCHLOSSBERG RIESLING 2014 - Rheinhessen, Germany (D) - $50
Medium+ intensity nose with mineral and lime aromas. The medium+ bodied palate offers a chalky texture with more mineral notes, high acids, and fine length with more minerally tones. Contact Univins and Spirits to order. Score: 91 pts

BURG RAVENSBURG HUSARENKAPPE RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS 2013 - Baden, Germany (D)
A single site wine from vines that are more than 40 years old, this Riesling has an appealing, highly aromatic nose of petrol, orange, apricot that's very clean. Just a touch off-dry, it has flavours of orange, peach and stony minerality. Nicely balacned with very good acidity and finishing long. Contact Halpern Wine Enterprises to order. Score: 91 pts

WEINGUT AM STEIN STETTENER STEIN RIESLING EISWEIN 2012 - Franken, Germany (S)
Highly aromatic, so intoxicating with lovely honey, apricot, and peach aromas that come from the drops I was poured. The palate is medium-bodied and very sweet with gentle acidity that balances the sweet aroma replays very well. Excellent length on the finish. Was seeking representation in Ontario. Score: 92 pts

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Wine Reviews - August 16th Birthday Party

Here are wine reviews of some of the wines we enjoyed yesterday at my 1-year-old daughter's 1st birthday party. The big winners among guests were definitely the Minervois and the Crianza as I received lots of positive comments about both of those red wines.

Tasting Notes:
KÖNIGSCHAFFHAUSER VULKANFELSEN PINOT NOIR ROSÉ TROCKEN 2013 - Qualitätswein, Baden, Germany (#168237) (D) - $13.95
From the June 7 Vintages release and quite a few remain in stock depending on which LCBO is nearest to you. Fresh aromas of medium+ intensity with a nose of strawberry, rose, cherry and grapefruit. It's light-to-medium bodied and off-dry on the palate with more grapefruit, cherry and hints of honey flavours. Very fresh mouthfeel with zippy, refreshing acids. Good length on the finish. Score: 88 pts

ERRÁZURIZ MAX RESERVA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2013 - Aconcagua Costa, Chile (#273342) (XD) - $15.95
First tasted at the Errázuriz winemaker tasting last September. Highly aromatic gooseberry, cat pee, and herbal aromas from the glass. Light-to-medium bodied on the palate along with a slightly creamy texture. Balanced aroma replays, plus green pepper, lime peel notes on the palate. Has lively acidity and a lengthy finish. Classic Sauvignon Blanc. LCBO General List and on sale at select LCBO outlets. Score: 89 pts

VINELAND ESTATES SEMI-DRY RIESLING 2012 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#232033) (D) - $13.95
LCBO General List product. Medium-high aromas that show lemon, pear, tropical fruit and hint of petrol. Slight spritz on the off-dry palate with lively acids, lemon, mineral, and touch of honeyed fruit flavours. Finish is lengthy, with sweetness tapering off to a dry finish. Even though designated as "semi-dry", was not as sweet as I expected. Score: 88+ pts

CHÂTEAU DE GOURGAZAUD CUVÉE MATHILDE MINERVOIS 2011 - AC, Midi, France (#958629) (XD) - $14.95
From this weekend's Vintages release. Blend of Syrah and Mourvèdre. Medium+ aroma intensity with blackberry, blackcherry and hints of violet. On the palate, it's medium-full bodied with round tannins that are nicely integrated. Pleasing aroma replays, along with black pepper and red cherry notes. Acids are well-balanced. Finish is long and smooth. Score: 88 pts

ABAD DOM BUENO CRIANZA 2006 - DO Bierzo, Spain (#244699) (XD) - $14.95
From the July 19 Vintages release and virtually sold out. Made using the Mencía grape and highly fragrant with sinewy black fruits, violets, smoky oak and hint of barnyard from the glass. On the palate, it's full-bodied with very nice aroma replays, earthy and elegant oak spice. Big, smooth tannins are still full and integrating nicely. Very good acids and length. Ageing gracefully at 8 years old, will reward further 4-5 years in cellar. Expect some sediment. Reminds me of a Brunello. Amazing value. Score: 90 pts

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Heitlinger Mellow Silk Pinot Noir 2011 (Baden) - Wine Review

Continuing with my German wines tasting, the next wine on the list is this Pinot Noir. This grape is the most widely planted red grape in Germany, and the third most widely planted overall - behind Riesling and not far behind Rivaner.

I opened this red wine Sunday night and paired it with oven-roasted chicken. This wine was part of the last year's October 12 Vintages release and is still available at the LCBO.

HEITLINGER MELLOW SILK PINOT NOIR 2011 - Qualitätswein, Baden, Germany (#344697) (XD) - $16.95

Tasting Note:
Screw cap. Low to medium nose that features smoke, pepper, earth, and mushroom aromas. Light-bodied with delicate, yet firm tannins. It's dry with pepper, tomato leaf, herbal, earth and hints of mushroom and strawberry on the palate. Tannins a bit chalky at mid-palate and some heat on the medium-long finish. Chill slightly. Paired well with oven-roasted chicken that was seasoned in Mrs. Dash Chili Seasoning. Score: 87 pts

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German Wines - Part 3

Here are two more wines I received courtesy of Wines of Germany Canada. The first two wines were reviewed here and here.

The first wine reviewed below is a Sparkling Wine in the 200 mL size, which is (likely) available in packs of 3 at the LCBO. It's on the sweet side and makes a good alternative for those who like Moscato d'Asti. The second wine reviewed in this post is a medium (in sweetness) Riesling. Both of these wines are easy drinking wines that are suitable for gatherings where your guests enjoy sweeter wines.

HENKELL TROCKEN DRY-SEC PICCOLO - Baden, Germany (#009118) (MD) (200 mL) - $11.45

Tasting Note:
Comes in pack of 3. Screw cap on this 200 mL bottle. Medium-high intensity aromas of apple, floral and hints of barnyard from the glass. Good, crisp bubbles and fresh acidity. Palate is quite sweet with lemon/lime, citrus and honeydew. Fairly light-weight and finishing short-medium in length. For a Trocken Dry-Sec, it's quite sweet. Score: 83 pts


DEINHARD GREEN LABEL RIESLING 2012 - Qualitätswein, Mosel, Germany (#008094) (M) - $11.95

Tasting Note:

Screw cap. This white wine has muted aromas of pink grapefruit, peach, and Flintstones vitamins. Medium in sweetness with white peach, floral, petrol, and wet rocks on the palate. Hints of honey linger on the medium-long finish. Good acidity and medium bodied. Score: 86 pts

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