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white wine review is a lovely, vegan-friendly Pinot Gris from New Zealand that made its debut at the LCBO as a brand new arrival in last month's LCBO New Release Collection.
It is produced by Heaphy Vineyard, a wine brand that was only established in 2019, but has long roots deep into the soil of the cooler Nelson winegrowing region on the South Island of New Zealand. The brand was established, mainly for international markets, by one of Nelson's wine pioneers, Greg Day, and his wife, Amanda.
Heaphy Vineyard is situated in the northwest corner of New Zealand's South Island, in a region named Nelson Tasman. The small winery is located high above Tasman Bay, in the Moutere Hills, where they have 10 hectares of long-established vineyards planted on Moutere's signature clay soils. Some of the vines in these vineyards were first planted in 1973, and are among the oldest productive vineyards in New Zealand.
In 2022, Heaphy Vineyard was acquired by Boutinot Wines, an international producer and distributor based in Manchester, UK. Greg had a long-standing relationship with Boutinot and offered them the opportunity to buy the brand as Greg and Amanda were planning on retiring. With the acquisition, Boutinot planned to make Heaphy the largest Nelson wine brand and one of the largest New Zealand wine brands in the UK. To help achieve this goal, Boutinot purchased new equipment in order to handle the additional capacity.
Today, Heaphy Vineyard is committed to sustainability and quality winemaking, with a particular focus on crafting wines that express the unique Nelson landscape. Heaphy Vineyard has two ranges of wines - the entry-level, which is the line this Pinot Gris is from, and the premium Moutere Range. Heaphy Vineyard is certified by Sustainable Wine Growing New Zealand (SWNZ), which means that their wines are crafted using grapes grown in 100% SWNZ-certified vineyards and produced in 100% SWNZ-certified winemaking facilities. Some of the SWNZ certification commitments include completing annual submissions, as well as undergoing regular on-site audits, which are conducted by an independent verification company.
This white wine is crafted using 100% Pinot Gris that was grown in a single vineyard on Moutere's clay loam soils. The grapes were hand-picked at full ripeness, then gently pressed and cold settled in stainless steel tanks. The pressing juices were separated into free run and (direct) pressings, which allows for better integration for when they eventually come together again. The two juices were then racked together for fermentation at 14°C (on average) in stainless steel tanks, which delivered a natural residual sugar (RS) level of 4.5 g/L.
From an excellent vintage, albeit with slightly lower yields, let's see how this 2023 Pinot Gris from Nelson is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
HEAPHY PINOT GRIS 2023 - Sustainable, Nelson, South Island, New Zealand (#36901) (D) - $19.95 Screw cap. This single vineyard Pinot Gris has a fragrant, medium-high intensity nose that is attractive with freshly squeezed lemon citrus and lemon peel aromas joined by grapefruit, pear, and touches of floral, pithy and mineral notes adding complexity and interest. It has good weight on the dry, fleshy, medium-full bodied palate with delicious, honeyed flavours of pear, apple, lemon citrus, and grapefruit flavours. There's a kiss of sweetness, along with spice notes on the mid-palate. Clean acids are well-balanced and juicy. It's gently spicy with flor and leesy mineral notes lingering on the long, dry, and finely textured finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 2 years. Score: 90 pts
white wine review is an excellent Marsanne from the Beamsville Bench appellation in Niagara that arrived at the LCBO earlier this month as part of the feature on Ontario Wines in the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.
It is produced by Kew Vineyards, a boutique winery focused on small-batch production that is located in the heart of Niagara on the Beamsville Bench, an area known for its limestone-rich soils. Situated on a 160-year-old estate, Kew Vineyards epitomizes country style and grace. The winery stands in the Kew homestead, a house which was built by William Kew. The Kew family lived in the home and operated a successful carriage making company from the house. Historically, the Kew homestead was known for mixing business with pleasure, and where the Kew family's chapter ends is when the story of Kew Vineyards begins.
In 1975, Mr. Hermann Weis brought his own clones from the Mosel Valley in Germany and planted some of Niagara's first Riesling vines on the estate at Kew Vineyards. Unknowingly, Mr. Weis became a true pioneer of Ontario's wine region, even while he was relentlessly met with skepticism as the community said he could never do it. Today, most of Niagara's Rieslings are based on the Weis Clone.
Kew Vineyards' prides itself on its unique vineyard, which includes some of Ontario's oldest vines, along with a few varietals that are rare for the region. The Marsanne vines at Kew Vineyards are special, unique, and continue to thrive in the cool-climate of Niagara and the challenges it presents. This white wine is one of the few, and perhaps only, Marsanne from Niagara, and almost always contains small amounts of other varieties. For the 2020 vintage, this is a blend of 95.2% Marsanne, 2.4% Viognier, and 2.4% Pinot Gris. To craft this wine, it was fermented for 10 months in larger French oak.
The 2020 growing season in Niagara delivered near-perfect conditions which benefited a wide spectrum of grape varieties. The growing season got off to a slow start, while the summer was hot and dry, resulting in clean and intense fruit. The grapes exhibited brightness, character, acidity, and energy due to cool weather early in the season, but they also displayed the depth of a warm vintage. Overall, it is a great vintage with many great wines across the board. Let's see how this 2020 Marsanne from Niagara is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
KEW VINEYARDS MARSANNE 2020 - VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#485334) (XD) - $19.95 Enclosed by Stelvin screw cap, this is mainly Marsanne with a splash of (2.4%) Viognier and (2.4%) Pinot Gris. Fragrant, open, and slightly perfumed, the medium-high intensity nose offers lovely and complex lemon citrus, ripe apple, herbs, and stony-leesy mineral aromas with touches of white floral. It is impressively weighted on the well-structured, medium+ bodied, textured, and dry palate with touches of vanilla oak and spice notes joining the lemon citrus, ripe apple, stony-leesy mineral flavours. It's very nicely balanced throughout with crisp, refreshing acidity, while the length is excellent with persistent leesy-stony mineral notes lingering on the savoury, long, and crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts
Limited quantities of other fine wines by Kew Vineyards are available at the LCBO, while the entire portfolio can be purchased directly from winery online or by visiting them in Beamsville, Ontario, or through their Agent - Arterra Wines Canada.
After enjoying a fine half day of wine tasting in Marlborough on the first Monday of March, my wine tour through Marlborough continued on . It was a long (and fairly busy day) with visits to five wineries, but very enjoyable nonetheless.
The day began where I spent the night - Villa Maria Estate - one of New Zealand's largest wineries. Villa Maria was founded in 1961 by 21-year-old Sir George Fistonich. Having a Croatian background, George was passionate about wine from a young age and it was central to his upbringing. He leased five acres of land from his father in Mangere, Auckland, and crafted his first wines using the one acre of vines that were planted on the site to form Villa Maria. George understood very early on the importance of regional differences between grape quality and wine styles. He pioneered the use of contract growers - a very common practice in New Zealand these days - and was the first New Zealand wine company to initiate payment for grapes based on quality, rather than quantity. Beginning with the 2002 vintage, Villa Maria was the first major wine company in New Zealand to seal all of their wines by screwcap.
Villa Maria's success is attributed to the team's commitment to quality, innovation, and passion to create the best wines possible, starting with exceptional vineyards and people. It it not surprising that by making quality wines the focus, recognition and awards naturally follow - Villa Maria is New Zealand's most awarded winery.
The team at Villa Maria is very tight-knit. George was keen to nurture the talent of the individuals on the team while also providing winemakers with the opportunity to express their own flair. I had the opportunity to meet with Helen Morrison, Villa Maria's Senior Marlborough Winemaker. Upon graduating from Lincoln University in Canterbury with a bachelor's degree in Viticulture and Oenology, she took on winemaking and judging for a number of years prior to joining Villa Maria in January 2014 where she enjoys working for such an iconic winemaking family with a strong focus on sustainability and environmental responsibility.
Being environmentally responsible has been a core objective for Sir George Fistonich for a very long time, with a strong desire to leave something for the next generation. Villa Maria has been a member of Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ) since its inception in 1995, received its BioGro (Organic) Certification in 2009, and acquired CEMARS Certification in 2010. Some of the many Sustainable Practices employed by Villa Maria include the use of organic vineyards, heat recovery, night air cooling, natural lighting, recycling, and hybrid vehicles - all with the goal of reducing their carbon footprint and impact on the environment. In Fall 2021, Villa Maria was acquired by Indevin.
Starting at 9 a.m. sharp, Helen and I tasted through a number of wines from the Villa Maria portfolio. The range begins with the entry level Private Bin series - a value range of wines that are approachable with consistent quality, and popular with wine drinkers globally. A step up is the Cellar Selection range - wines that are complex, elegant, and food-friendly, with an emphasis on fruit quality and minimal handling. The Reserve range features Villa Maria's most distinguished wines with exceptional quality and ultimate finesse. And finally, the Single Vineyard range features wines with identity, with each wine displaying its own distinct characteristics due to the unique terroir where the grapes are grown. All of the wines I tasted from each range were delicious, while some were really fantastic wines. Many wines from Villa Maria are available at the LCBO, including some in VINTAGES. Wines can also be ordered via their agent - Dandurand. Wine reviews of a few of my favourites from this tasting are provided below.
The second stop of the day was a short drive northwest to Nautilus Estate. I was picked up by winemaker Clive Jones, but before heading to the winery, we took a nice driving tour of some of Nautilus' vineyards, beginning at the Clay Hills Vineyard in the Omaka Valley, Southern Valleys sub-region. This 5.5 hectare site is located on an elevated hillside (120 metres above sea level) with clay soils on the eastern Omaka Valley and is exclusively Pinot Noir that was planted between 1999 and 2004. We then headed north into Wairau Valley and made a quick stop at their organic Renwick Vineyard - with its classic stony "Rapaura" soils - that was purchased in 1992 and was Nautilus' first vineyard.
Following the vineyard visits, we headed to the Cellar Door of Nautilus Estate, a small, boutique winery that was established in 1985 by owner and fifth-generation vigneron - Robert Hill-Smith. Being family-owned, Nautilus takes a cautious, long-term approach to everything they do. They are also a member of the Family of Twelve - a group of 12 prestigious family-owned wineries in New Zealand that they share ideas and time with. In 2000, Nautilus opened the first dedicated Pinot Noir facility in the Southern Hemisphere, and in 2006 they completed a separate, energy-efficient white wine making facility. Over the years, they have maintained their focus on harnessing the different sub-regional flavours in this cool climate region while using innovative winemaking practices to craft textural and complex food-friendly wines that are also vegan and vegetarian-friendly.
Clive and I tasted through the many wines from the portfolio - a pair of traditional method sparkling wines and an array of white wines including their popular Albariño and Grüner Veltliner single varietal wines. We then took a brief tour of the winemaking facility before heading back to the tasting bar to taste a flight of Nautilus Pinot Noir. Clive joined Nautilus as winemaker in 1998 and has overseen their Pinot Noir programme, including the design of the Pinot Noir gravity flow facility. Moreover, the Nautilus Pinot Noir has shown a high pedigree ever since Clive's first year at the estate and today it is considered a Marlborough benchmark.
Wine reviews of a few of my most favourite wines from Nautilus are provided below. The wines of Nautilus are imported into Canada by Negociants International, and their Agent in Ontario is Breakthru Beverage Canada.
A short drive east in the Rapaura area along the northern edge of the Wairau Valley to Allan Scott Family Winemakers was the third stop of the day. As the name suggests, this is a family winery that established itself as one of the first independent wineries in Marlborough in 1990. Allan Scott planted some of the region's most famous vineyards, including the very first, and has worked at the winery every vintage since. Allan is one of the most experienced people in the Marlborough wine business as he has been working in the industry for nearly 50 years after settling in the region in 1973. Allan and his wife, Catherine, purchased a block of land to get into contract growing, setting themselves up for the new era of New Zealand's wine industry when independent winemakers began to emerge. All three of Allan and Catherine's children are now involved in the family's winemaking business.
The eldest daughter, Victoria, is responsible for marketing, while their son Josh is Chief Winemaker. Their younger daughter, Sara, also trained as a winemaker, but mostly works in the vineyard. I had the pleasure of meeting Sara as she gave me a quick tour of the facility. Allan Scott is one of the few wineries in Marlborough with their own bottling line. During the tour, I also was surprised to see that they are packaging wine in kegs so that wines can be served as Wine on Tap. After the conclusion of the tour, we headed to the on-site Allan Scott Bistro for a wine tasting with a fine lunch and great conversation. The Allan Scott Bistro has a lovely sheltered outdoor courtyard (where we enjoyed lunch), as well as indoor dining by the fire. During lunch, I also had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Allan Scott himself and later received a signed copy of his book - Marlborough Man.
Allan Scott is a member of Méthode Marlborough and their Cecilia Brut Méthode Traditionnelle NV (reviewed below) is a lovely Chardonnay-based sparkling wine that I hope comes to the LCBO, although it may be available through their Agent - The Case For Wine. I also learned that Allan Scott is experimenting with ageing sparkling wines under the sea - the wines were dropped into Marlborough Sounds a couple of years ago and they are looking to bring a few back up soon. Allan Scott also practices sustainability, while all wines beginning with the 2018 vintage are vegan-friendly.
In addition to their Marlborough wines, Allan Scott also has a vineyard and winery in Central Otago. As Sara explained to me, Central Otago in the deep south was a family holiday spot when they were younger, often referred to as "our base", with the name eventually morphing to "Scott Base" and the brand Scott Base Wines was borne. I enjoyed the Scott Base Pinot Noir (reviewed below) and it was one of the few wines from Central Otago I tasted on this trip to New Zealand.
The fourth stop of the day was southwest into the Waihopai Valley to visit Spy Valley Wines. The name of the winery comes from its proximity to an international satellite communications monitoring station - a spy base. I discovered the wines of Spy Valley a number of years ago, most notably their barrel-fermented ENVOY Sauvignon Blanc, and have been enamoured with their wines ever since. I met up with Tricia Pike, Cellar Door Supervisor, who gave me a tour of the winery and vineyards, followed by a tasting of many special wines from Spy Valley portfolio.
Spy Valley Wines was founded in the 1990s by Bryan and Jan Johnson when they established 180 hectares of estate vineyards on land in the Waihopai Valley considered too hard, too dry and too unfertile for wine. The terroir at Spy Valley is stony, free-draining riverbed terrain, while the terraced vines sit on both rocky riverside gravels and deeper clay and silt soils. The venture started as a passion for the land and continues today with a commitment to the land and people who tend it - nurturing the soil and vine, and focusing on sustainability to ensure guardianship of the land for generations to come.
Since the beginning, Spy Valley has been accredited under New Zealand Sustainable Winegrowing - an initiative that promotes economically and environmentally sustainable vineyard management. This sustainability initiative encompasses their own winery and vineyards, as well as grower vineyards, and they have seen firsthand how the environment has benefitted. At Spy Valley, some of these sustainability initiatives include biodiversity, minimal irrigation, reduce energy usage by various means such as the use of solar panels. Spy Valley also uses low-toxic and environmentally products in the vineyard and winery. The principles of reduce, reuse, and recycle are prevalent throughout Spy Valley. While their bottles are made out 96% recycled glass, they also crush their own glass to make a fine dust that they mulch and distribute below the vines, thus enhancing light reflection. When I took a stroll through the vineyard with Tricia, she talked about the fine glass dust that sits in the vineyard and that we must be careful. The mission at Spy Valley is to produce quality wines that ensure a sustainable business for the future, while also benefitting the environment. Spy Valley wines come through LCBO VINTAGES throughout the year, but are also available via their Agent - Noble Estates Wine & Spirits.
The fifth and final stop of the day was a 25 minute drive northeast into the mountainous locality of Koromiko, about 20 km north of Blenheim, to visit Johanneshof Cellars. This artisan boutique winery was established in 1991 by Edel Everling, from Germany, and Warwick Foley, a 5th generation New Zealander. Edel's family had been making wine for five generations, while Warwick, as a teenager, planted one of Marlborough's first vineyards on the steep hillside land in Koromiko in 1977. With a long history of European tradition combined with Kiwi ingenuity, they have combined old world knowledge and customs with new world terroir to produce a collection of outstanding New Zealand fine wines.
In keeping with Europe's century old wine culture, Edel and Warwick created New Zealand's first underground rock cellar in 1993. It was tunnelled into solid sandstone and is located underneath their hillside Maybern Vineyard. I had the pleasure of taking a tour and experiencing an intimate tasting in the cellar with Edel and Warwick and their lovely 2009 EMMI Brut Méthode Traditionnelle (reviewed below) which spent 7 years on the lees. The cool, stable temperature and high natural humidity of their underground cellar provides ideal storage conditions to allow the maturation of wines, which are aged in French barriques and German barrels.
Another unique thing about Johanneshof Cellars is the aforementioned Maybern Estate Vineyard. It stretches up behind the estate, on a 30 degree slope, northwest facing, and oversees the winery and cellar door below. The Maybern vineyard is not irrigated and is the only vineyard in Marlborough to have Kenepuru (sandy silt) soils over a bedrock of schist and iron-rich sandstone. All of the wines are made on-site by Edel and Warwick by combining traditional winemaking techniques with modern technology, including the use of gravity to move the wine throughout the facility. Johanneshof Cellars is a member of New Zealand Winegrowers, New Zealand Sustainable Winegrowing, and a founding member of Méthode Marlborough.
Since I was a bit pressed for time because I had a plane to catch to Hawke's Bay, I didn't get a close look at the vineyard, nor the winemaking facility, and instead tasted through almost the entire portfolio that consisted of many lovely wines (a few of my favourites are reviewed below). Unfortunately, the wines from Johanneshof Cellars are not available in Canada at the time of my visit, but they are seeking representation.
This concluded my short trip through Marlborough wine country by visiting eight wineries over two days. The Sauvignon Blanc wines I tasted were lovely, as expected. I was pleasantly surprised by the high quality Pinot Noir wines, as well as the fresh Pinot Gris. The biggest surprise were the white wines made with Albariño and Grüner Veltliner - two grapes not widely planted, but growing in popularity.
Full wine reviews of some of my many favourites wines from Marlborough are below, and my next post is a visit to Hawke's Bay for a full day of wine tasting. Pricing is in Canadian dollars, unless otherwise noted, and would be approximate given the timing of this post.
Tasting Notes:
VILLA MARIA SINGLE VINEYARD SOUTHERN CLAYS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2019 - Southern Valleys, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#447474) (XD) - $29.99 Bottled recently. A single vineyard Sauvignon Blanc with grapes coming from the Southern Clays sub-region within the Wairau Valley that has tight, dense clay soils. With many months on yeast lees, this has fresh, lemony, stone fruit, citrus, herbs, and some yeasty/leesy characters, as well as earthy mineral aromas. On the medium-full bodied palate, it is rich, creamy and nicely textured with very nice citrusy, peach, and grapefruit flavours supported by juicy acids. Very good length on the finish. Needs another 1-2 years to really show itself. Score: 91+ pts
VILLA MARIA SINGLE VINEYARD SEDDON PINOT GRIS 2018 - Awatere Valley, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#497361) (D) - $34.90 From a cool, long ripening site with wind blown silt soils on the southern bank of the Awatere River. One-third of this delicious wine was wild fermented used barrels and had 6 months of lees contact. This single vineyard Pinot Gris has a medium-high intensity nose that is clean and elegant with peach, nectarine, and citrus aromas, plus some leesy, stone fruit, and spice characters. It’s medium-full bodied, fleshy, richly textured and a touch creamy in the mouth. Off-dry on the palate with honeysuckle, ripe stone fruit, peach, ginger spice flavours. It has balanced acids and finishes long with ginger spice, peach, and citrus notes. Score: 92 pts
VILLA MARIA TAYLORS PASS PINOT NOIR 2016 - Awatere Valley, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (XD) - $59.99 NZD Made with Clone 5, 667, and 777 on a terrace furthest away from the Awatere River with an interesting soil split between stony and silty for clones 667 and 777, leading to the grapes being picked in lots and vinified separately. The nose is fresh, elegant, and perfumed with sweet baking spice, raspberry, rhubarb, and cherry aromas, plus some blueberry and mulberry notes. The medium-full bodied palate has lovely, velvety tannins that have some grip on the back palate. Very nice aroma replays on the balanced flavour profile, lingering through to the long, succulent finish. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. Score: 92
NAUTILUS ESTATE CUVÉE MARLBOROUGH BRUT NV - Traditional Method, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (XD) - $39 NZD Made in the traditional method since 1989, consisting of 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay and aged for a minimum of 36 months on the lees in used oak barrels. Lovely, fragrant aromatics deliver biscuity, toasty, yeasty, and lemon citrus notes that have more citrusy and grapefruit replays on the crisp, dry palate. Bubbles are fine while acids are crisp and refreshing. Excellent length on the dry finish. Score: 91 pts
NAUTILUS SOUTHERN VALLEYS PINOT NOIR 2016 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#606913) (XD) - $29.95 Indigenous yeast fermented, with some whole bunch fermentation, and matured in French oak for 11 months. Fresh, medium+ intensity nose is earthy with beetroot, rhubarb, cherry, and spice aromas. It’s medium+ bodied and nicely balanced with lovely aroma replays, plus cran-cherry flavours, supported by fine-grained tannins that offer some structure on the back palate. Balanced throughout with a long, clean finish. Enjoy over the next 6-8 years. Score: 90+ pts
NAUTILUS CLAY HILLS VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2016 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (XD) - $68 NZD 25% whole bunch fermented. Clean, refined and elegant nose features earthy, beetroot, cherry, rhubarb, and subtle sweet spice aromas are quite complex. The medium-full bodied, structured palate is spiced with lovely raspberry replays, plus touches of tea leaf and supported by succulent, juicy acids. Tannins are on the firm side, but well-integrated. Excellent length on the finish with savoury beetroot, rhubarb, and spice notes. Score: 92 pts
ALLAN SCOTT CECILIA BRUT MÉTHODE TRADITIONNELLE NV - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (XD) - $26 NZD Vegan-friendly and predominantly Chardonnay blended with Pinot Noir that spent 18+ months on lees, this has a fairly aromatic and clean nose with biscuity, leesy, yeasty, and citrus aromas with touches of seaweed. It has fine mousse and crisp acids on the palate with citrus and grapefruit flavours, plus biscuity and pastry notes. Long, crisp, and dry with touches of saline on the finish. Score: 90 pts
ALLAN SCOTT WHITE LABEL SAUVIGNON BLANC 2019 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (XD) - $18.95 The restrained, medium-high intensity nose is elegant and clean with ripe tropical fruit, passion fruit, kiwi aromas, and whiffs of minerality. Nicely balanced on the medium-full bodied, slightly creamy palate with very good fruit concentration. Lovely, balanced aroma replays on the flavour profile and supported by vibrant acids that continue through to the long, ripe finish. Vegan-friendly. Score: 91 pts
ALLAN SCOTT SCOTT BASE PINOT NOIR 2018 - Central Otago, South Island, New Zealand (XD) - $38 NZD Lovely, perfumed aromas of raspberry, black cherry, currant, and spice, with some beetroot and earth. It’s medium+ bodied with firm, structured tannins and nice raspberry and black cherry replays layered over earthy tones on the flavour profile. There's fresh, balanced acidity, and a long savoury finish with raspberry and black cherry notes. Should improve in 2-3 years. Score: 91 pts
SPY VALLEY ENVOY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2015 - Johnson Vineyard, Waihopai Valley, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#429308) (XD) - $29.95 Naturally fermented in French oak for 6-10 months, this has a highly aromatic and complex nose with smoky, flinty, citrusy lemon/lime aromas and hints of herbally and grassy notes. It’s medium-full bodied with lovely smoky, herbaceous, herbally, green pepper flavours, plus hints of white peach. It has a very nice texture with juicy acids and a long, juicy finish. Should continue to drink well over the next 5 years. Score: 91 pts
SPY VALLEY ENVOY GEWURZTRAMINER 2018 - Johnson Vineyard, Waihopai Valley, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (M) - $34.90 NZD Fermented in small oak barrels, this has a lovely, highly aromatic nose of floral, lychee, rose, candied ginger, and honeyed spice notes. The medium-full bodied palate is rich and spiced with nicely balanced, medium sweet aroma replays. Lively acids freshen the juicy palate. Lovely honeyed spice flavours linger on the long, clean finish. Score: 92 pts
SPY VALLEY HANDPICKED SINGLE ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2016 - Southern Valleys, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (XD) - $32.90 NZD Handpicked as individual vineyard blocks and vinified separately until final blending. Naturally fermented and aged for 11 months in French oak. Lovely, black cherry, spice, earthy, beetroot, and rhubarb aromas that echo on the nicely balanced, lightly oak spiced, medium-full bodied palate with very good fruit concentration. Acids are very good, while tannins are smooth and finely-grained. More black cherry, currant, and cherry with spice notes linger on the long finish. Score: 91 pts
JOHANNESHOF CELLARS METHODE TRADITIONNELLE EMMI BRUT 2009 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (XD) - $41 NZD A blend of 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay that spent 7 years on the lees. This sparkling wine has a lovely, highly aromatic and complex nose featuring biscuity, leesy, toasty, fine lees, pastry and some citrus notes. mature fine bubbles and acids. Fresh acids, juicy, lovely citrusy still quite fresh. The medium-bodied palate is citrusy with fine, mature bubbles and still quite fresh acidity. Fine pastry, biscuity, and brioche flavours that continue through to the long, slightly minerally finish. Fine bubbly! Score: 93 pts
JOHANNESHOF CELLARS PINOT GRIS 2019 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (D) - $25 NZD Tank sample. Restrained stone fruit, white peach, and some earthy characters on the nose. The medium-full bodied palate is fat, fleshy, and concentrated with lovely off-dry flavours of honeysuckle, quince, and peach flavours supported by balanced acidity. Some herbal, stone fruit, and white peach flavours linger on the finish, with very good length. Score: 90 pts
JOHANNESHOF CELLARS RIESLING 2019 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (D) - $24 NZD Fresh, honeysuckle, floral, lemon-lime and stony mineral aromas in a dry profile emanate from the glass. It is medium+ bodied on the palate with a nice, fleshy texture and off-dry flavours of white peach, lime zest, mineral, and herbs. It has juicy acids while the long, complex finish has herbally, white peach, quince, pear and floral characters. Score: 90 pts
After a fine afternoon of wine tasting on Waiheke Island, I caught a late-morning flight the day after, a , to New Zealand's largest and most famous wine region - Marlborough. Located on the South Island, this was the first of two days of wine tasting in Marlborough.
My first stop of the day was Greywacke, the Marlborough label of one of New Zealand's finest winemakers, the legendary Kevin Judd. I was first introduced to Greywacke back in 2016 and have been enamoured with Kevin's wines ever since. And when I landed at Marlborough Airport (BHE) just west of Blenheim, I was excited to have Kevin personally come and pick me up from the airport. We headed straight to the winery - where they had just recently move to - on Kennedys Road in the Omaka Valley, and I met his wife, Kimberley, and the rest of the team for a lovely, home-cooked lunch.
After lunch, Kevin and I headed over to the building next door and he took me through his amazing portfolio of wines, including a few back vintages. Kevin was born in England and grew up and studied winemaking in Australia. He moved to New Zealand in 1983 and built his reputation as one of Marlborough's pioneer winemakers at Cloudy Bay, where he was the founding winemaker. But, after 25 years at Cloudy Bay, he decided to fulfill a long-held dream to have his own winery and in 2009 established Greywacke (pronounced: grey-wacky) with his wife Kimberley. He registered the name back in 1993, while with Cloudy Bay, thinking that one day he might use it for his own label. The name "Greywacke" comes from the high prevalence of rounded greywacke river stones that are found in their first Marlborough vineyard located in Rapaura, a short drive northeast of where the winery is located now. These stones, like other stones found in other vineyards throughout the wine world, have an impact on the vines and the grapes that grow from them. Seeing the greywacke stone on this trip was on my wish list, and mission was accomplished as Kevin had one on the table where we tasted the wines.
The high quality wines at Greywacke are made from mature vineyards within the central Wairau Plains and the Southern Valleys. Much of the fruit is sourced from vineyards owned by the Sutherland family (a friend dating back to their days at Cloudy Bay and now part-owners of Dog Point), while additional fruit comes from select sites within these sub-regions. The Greywacke portfolio is primarily focused on Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, but there are also limited releases of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Riesling. There are also a couple of botrytis-affected wines. I was surprised to learn that a portion of every wine throughout the Greywacke portfolio undergoes wild fermentation. Most notable are the Wild Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, both of which were 100% wild fermented. As I learned during my visit to Marlborough, many wineries are using this natural fermentation technique.
All of the wines I tasted from Greywacke were just lovely. Some of these wines do make an appearance in LCBO VINTAGES, while the rest can be ordered through their agent, Connexion Oenophilia. Wine reviews of a few of my favourites are provided below.
In addition to producing fine wines, I didn't realize that Kevin is also very passionate about and excels in photography. All of the pictures on Greywacke's labels were photographed by Kevin. He also has a few books that showcase some of his works, including The Landscape of New Zealand Wine. To view Kevin's books and prints, visit Kevin Judd Photography.
My second stop of the day was a short drive north to Dog Point Vineyard. Ivan and Margaret Sutherland of the aforementioned Sutherland family were among the earliest Marlborough wine industry pioneers - planting grapes in the region in the late 1970s. Ivan, along with Kevin Judd, helped build Cloudy Bay, and they were eventually joined by James Healy. However, in 2004, Ivan & Margaret, along with James & (wife) Wendy wanted to return to a more 'hands-on' approach and launched Dog Point with fruit from the 2002 vintage.
The name 'Dog Point' dates back to the earliest European settlement in Marlborough, when boundary dogs were used to fence in the herds of sheep. Some of these dogs wandered off and formed their own packs, eventually coming back to attack the sheep. Over time, the settlers removed these wild dogs from the area and named it Dog Point.
Today, the four founders of Dog Point are still actively involved in the day-to-day operations of the winery. Dog Point owns some of the oldest vineyards in Marlborough with vines that are 30+ years old. All of the grapes are grown in organic vineyards certified under BioGro New Zealand and hand-picked. The entire Dog Point portfolio consists of just four wines - enabling them to focus on creating high-quality wines of great character. All of the wines are vinified in a low interventionist method, without any fining and minimal filtration, with the goal of producing wines that can be cellared and aged.
At Dog Point, I met up with Jak Nash who gave me a quick tour of the property in the DP classic car that you see on their website. We stopped at a few different points, including a hill that had clay soils and was known for producing the high quality Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that goes into their own wines. Overlooking the hill was a gorgeous view of the Southern Valleys vineyards, some of which are their own. The extraordinary 2020 harvest looks to be yet another very special vintage.
I tasted all four of their current releases - which are all vegan, vegetarian, and gluten-free - and each wine is fantastic! Wine reviews of my top three are provided below. While one or two wines from the Dog Point portfolio may come to LCBO VINTAGES, you can also reach out to their agent Noble Estates Wine & Spirits to order the full lineup of Dog Point wines.
The final stop of the day was a short drive north to Whitehaven Wines, located at the northern edge of the Wairau Valley and bordering the Wairau River. General Manager Simon Toneycliffe gave me a brief tour of the estate vineyards, some which are approaching 30 years old before we headed into the winery to learn about Whitehaven and taste a few wines.
Whitehaven Wines was one of Marlborough's pioneering wine businesses when it was established in 1994 by Greg and Sue White after sheltering in a yacht in the Marlborough Sounds during the Pacific hurricane season and thought the area would be a nice place to start a new project. The winery is named Whitehaven for the importance of family and the calming port 'haven' they'd found while anchored in Marlborough - hence the anchor in the logo. Today, Whitehaven is led by Sue White, continuing the dream she shared with her late husband Greg, while their daughter Samantha will steer the company into the future.
To make the wines, the fruit comes from around 45 estate owned or managed vineyards, or from contract grower vineyards across Marlborough's three sub-regions - Wairau, Awatere. and Southern Valleys. This practice is quite common in the wine world, but I learned is especially common in New Zealand. What I found surprising is the sheer number of vineyards where the fruit can come from. For example, Whitehaven's White Label Sauvignon Blanc comes from these 45 vineyards across the Awatere, Wairau, and Southern Valleys, with grapes from each vineyard vinified separately prior to creating the final blend. Many of their contract growers have been part of the Whitehaven 'family' for a long time. In total, Whitehaven has access to more than 200 hectares of vines, and all of the vineyards (including grower vineyards) are Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ) accredited. In 2019, Whitehaven became a member of Appellation Marlborough Wine (AMW) - assuring, among other criteria, that they only use Marlborough fruit for their Sauvignon Blanc wines.
After tasting the wines with winemakers Diana Katardzhieva and Rowan Langdon, we toured the production facility that was recently renovated with further improvements and expansion coming soon. I also had the opportunity to go up the catwalk and get a gorgeous view of the Wairau Valley. It was quite windy on this day, but perfectly suitable for winegrowing as the wind helps cool the grapes. Upon completion of the tour, I enjoyed a fine BBQ dinner at Diana's home and accompanied with many Whitehaven wines, including some back vintages. Rowan also joined us and I thank both of you and your partners for a wonderful evening and hospitality!
Whitehaven wines are available at the LCBO (including VINTAGES), with wines from the rest of their portfolio available through their agent - E. & J. Gallo Winery Canada.
Tasting Notes:
GREYWACKE WILD SAUVIGNON 2017 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#282806) (XD) - $39 From clay soils. Wild fermented with two-thirds undergoing full malolactic fermentation in oak barrels, and spending 8 months on the lees. This Sauvignon Blanc has a fresh, oak influenced, and balanced nose of orchard fruit, stone fruit, and hints of citrus with yeasty, leesy, and herbal characters adding further complexities. It's medium-full bodied and quite fleshy on the palate with lovely spicy replays plus citrusy and lemon flavours, all supported by fresh, lively acids. A textural wonder with ripe fruits, subtle oak, and excellent length on the finish. Score: 93 pts
GREYWACKE CHARDONNAY 2016 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (XD) - $45 2 clones of Chardonnay from 4 vineyards. Pressed straight to barrel and underwent natural indigenous yeast fermentation, followed by malolactic fermentation in French oak barriques (20% new). This Chardonnay has a rich, highly aromatic, oak influenced nose that is smoky with buttered popcorn, and baked apple, pear, and stone fruit aromas. It's full-bodied on the rich, creamy palate with very nice smoky-flinty replays and apple flavours. It has fresh, succulent acids to go along with a tight structure and very good length on flinty, orchard fruit finish. Score: 93 pts
GREYWACKE PINOT NOIR 2017 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#402651) (XD) - $46 Made with Dijon clones from vineyards in the Southern Valleys, this Pinot Noir has a fresh, open, fragrant, and complex nose of raspberry and black cherry mingling with earthy, forest floor, beetroot, clove, strawberry, and cherry notes, along with hints of floral. It's light-to-medium bodied with lovely aroma replays on the pretty palate with some tannins on the back-palate. Acids are balanced. Earthy, beetroot, spice, and black cherry notes linger on the long finish. Score: 92 pts
DOG POINT SECTION 94 SAUVIGNON BLANC 2013 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#325977) (XD) - $44.95 A single vineyard parcel grown on silt/clay loam soils that was wild fermented and aged for 18 months in older French oak barrels, this has a highly aromatic and reductive nose layered over citrus, melon, and subtle smoky oak aromas. It's medium-full bodied with lively acids that brighten that palate. Lovely flavours of spice, citrus, melon, and passion fruit notes with touches of herbal characters. Palate quenching with excellent length on the finish. Score: 92 pts
DOG POINT CHARDONNAY 2017 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#238568) (XD) - $45 From the oldest vines in Marlborough which were planted in 1981 and a clonal combination of 70% Mendoza and 30% Clone 95. Wild fermented in barrels. It has a fairly intense nose that is reductive in style with smoky, flinty, buttered popcorn, golden apple, peach, stone fruit aromas that are very clean and offer purity of fruit. The medium-full bodied palate is spiced with golden apple, peach, and citrus flavours that flow through the juicy, succulent mid-palate. Nice replays. Excellent length on the long, juicy finish. Score: 93 pts
DOG POINT PINOT NOIR 2017 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#329672) (XD) - $50 Mostly Dijon clones from vines planted in 1983 (the oldest in Marlborough), wild fermented (15% whole bunch) and matured in French oak barrels (35% new) for 18 months. The medium-high to highly aromatic nose is clean, elegant, and perfumed with lovely black cherry, dried tea leaf, dark cherry, earthy, cherry, beetroot, and anise aromas. It's medium+ bodied, elegant, and quite concentrated with pleasing black cherry, mulberry, and cassis flavours with subtle oak spice notes. Nicely balanced throughout with clean acids and fine tannins. Lovely earthy, forest floor, and black cherry notes linger on the long finish, with excellent length. Score: 92 pts
WHITEHAVEN GREG SINGLE VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2019 - Awatere Valley, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#325944) (XD) - $23.95 Fresh, elegant aromatics are clean and ripe with melon, citrus, wet rock minerality, and grapefruit notes. It's medium+ bodied on the fresh, broad palate with nicely ripe melon replays, followed by some mineral, gooseberry, and nettle flavours. It's got fresh acids and a long, crisp, and lightly spiced finish. Score: 91 pts
WHITEHAVEN PINOT GRIS 2018 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#447516) (XD) - $19.95 From estate grown fruit, the fresh, medium+ intensity aromatics offer stone fruits, melon, pear, honeysuckle, and floral characters with a touch of cotton candy. The medium-full bodied has a kiss of sweetness with spiced melon, quince, and pear flavours and a touch of herb. With 5 months of lees contact, it is nicely textured with very good acidity, while the finish is long and palate quenching. Score: 89 pts
WHITEHAVEN PINOT NOIR 2016 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#532929) (XD) - $26.95 A 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir from the Awatere and Southern Valleys, this has a medium-high intensity nose that is clean with red and black fruits, black cherry, raspberry, plum, dark berry, and spice, along with some earthy tones and hints of tea leaf. The medium-full bodied palate is structured and quite concentrated with nice red and black fruit replays. Raspberry, tomato leaf, and whiffs of tea leaf and mineral also appear on the flavour profile. Acids are still quite juicy, while the finish length is very good. Score: 90 pts
wine review is this excellent, off-dry Pinot Gris from New Zealand that arrived at the LCBO in limited quantities over the weekend as part of the recent LCBO VINTAGES Release.
Greywacke (pronounced Greywacky) is the Marlborough label of iconic winemaker Kevin Judd. After spending many years working at another winery, he wanted to create his own label of wines and established Greywacke in 2009. The name comes from New Zealand's most abundant bedrock and these understated grey river stones are found throughout Marlborough's rivers alluvial vineyard soils.
Today, Greywacke is very much a Judd family affair with a keep it simple and hands-on approach, with minimal intervention techniques adopted for winemaking. Greywacke is located in the heart of Marlborough's Omaka Valley, one of the Southern Valleys, and the fruit is sourced from mature vineyards in prime viticultural sites. All of the vineyards are sustainably managed, with substantial and increasing portions coming from organically farmed sites. Kevin is also a renowned photographer, using his own photos that adorn the labels of his wines.
Much of fruit for this 100% Pinot Gris is from the Selection Ovaille and Mission clones grown at the Wrekin Terrace Vineyard in the Brancott Valley, a valley floor site on gravelly clay-loam soils that is typical of the Southern Valleys. A smaller parcel of fruit is from the Entav 52 clone that is known for its small bunch and berry size and was grown at the Riverbrook Vineyard in Rapaura where the young alluvial soils contain high proportions of greywacke river stones. All of the grapes were hand-picked at high ripeness levels, then whole bunch pressed. Most of the resulting juice was naturally fermented with indigenous yeast in old French oak barriques, while the rest was fermented with cultured yeast in stainless steel tanks. Towards the end of the fermentation, all of the wine was combined into stainless steels tanks, then aged on yeast lees for a year, with 6 months spent in old barrels followed by 6 months in stainless steel tanks.
While I had the pleasure and honour of tasting this same Pinot Gris at the winery with Kevin back in March 2020, I am curious to see how it has evolved and tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
GREYWACKE MARLBOROUGH PINOT GRIS 2017 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#994939) (D) - $29.95 Screw cap. The medium-high intensity nose offers an initial flinty, sulphide, yeasty mineral, and lightly nose tingling experience, but laying underneath are rich, ripe and complex aromas of stone fruit, pear, apple, peach, citrus, floral, and grapefruit with touches of honey. On the rich, ripe, concentrated, and creamy palate are off-dry flavours of poached pear, ginger, honey, and spice. Slightly warming on the mid-palate, but still well-balanced with juicy acidity. Honeyed ginger, citrus, spice, and yeasty minerals linger on the long finish, with excellent length. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts
Small quantities of other excellent wines from Greywacke are available at the LCBO, while other wines from their portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.
wine reviews are a limited release set of 6 lovely and unique VQA wines called The Wine-demic Pack that were crafted by Niagara's Creekside Estate Winery and launched in . Although things are improving of late, The Wine-demic Pack recognizes some of the daily adjustments we've all had to make while living through these difficult times.
As Andrew Howard, President of Creekside Estate Winery says, "Great wine and a sense of humour is in our DNA at Creekside, so we've combined them together to create a fun and delicious box of wine that we call our Pandemic Pack (aka Wine-demic Pack). While we won't solve any of life's real problems with this collection, we think that a sense of humour and some very good wine can help to make the current struggles a little less formidable." As these are stressful times for a lot of people, Creekside is donating a portion of the proceeds from these wines to support local mental health services.
The Wine-demic Pack Collection includes 6 delicious and unique VQA wines (reviewed below), with each wine highlighting a different aspect of pandemic living, and while the labels and names are fun in nature, the wines are no joke! You can get this Collection, which includes one of each bottle for a total of 6 bottles for $125 at the winery in Jordan, Ontario, as well as through their online store for free home delivery anywhere in the province.
Intense, fresh, ripe, tropical fruit aromas of guava, kiwi, passion fruit, and lemon citrus. It's medium+ bodied on the fleshy, slightly creamy palate with lovely tropical fruit and citrus aroma replays, along with some saline notes. It has fresh acidity, while the finish has touches of saline mineral notes, with very good length. Score: 90+ pts
THE WINE-DEMIC PACK PINOT GRIS 2019 - VQA Ontario, Canada (XD) Every day is ground hog day is every day
Pours a medium-deep gold colour. The medium+ intensity nose has a slightly funky nose of peach and stone fruit aromas. It's medium+ bodied on the palate with more peach and stone fruits flavours joined by honeyed notes in a dry flavour profile. Acids are well-balanced, while more peach and stone fruit notes come through on the dry finish, with good length. Score: 88 pts
Bottled under Stelvin screw cap, this Charmat-method sparkling wine is made with Riesling and offers a fragrant nose of ripe peach, apple, citrus, and apricot with touches of white floral aromas, with lovely replays on the semi-sweet palate and frothy mousse with fresh acidity that brightens the palate. Very good length with more apple, floral, and touches of honey lingering on the finish. Score: 89 pts
This blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris has fresh, medium-high intensity aromatics with ripe raspberry, cranberry, strawberry, cherry, and herbal notes. It's medium-full bodied on the weighty, dry palate with fairly complex currant, cranberry, cherry, strawberry, and herbal flavours joined by orange zest nuances. It has very good acidity and a slightly tannic presence. Lovely herbal, currant, and red berry notes linger on the crisp, dry finish, with very good length. Score: 90+ pts
THE WINE-DEMIC PACK SYRAH 2019 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (XD) Fuzzy face and furry legs acceptance tonic
The medium+ intensity nose has funky, meaty aromas layered over dark fruit and black peppercorn. It's medium+ bodied on the palate with fresh acids and smooth, rounded, slightly dusty textured tannins that support the savoury, earthy, dark fruit, meaty, and black peppercorn flavours. Nicely balanced overall with meaty, olive, black pepper, and savoury wood notes lingering on the finish. Score: 90 pts
The nose is a bit quiet, offering glimpses of red & black fruits, currant, cassis, and touches of wood spice. The full-bodied, structured palate is ripe with currant, cassis, and black cherry with touches of wood spice and herbally mint flavours, It has fresh, balanced acidity, while the structured tannins are a bit grippy. Pleasantly savoury on the tight finish, with very good length. Enjoyable now, but should be even better in 2-3 years. Score: 90 pts
Wednesday, November 6, 2024
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