Le Fils des Gras Moutons Sur Lie Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine 2019 (Loire) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is the latest vintage of this lovely Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine white wine that is made using the Melon de Bourgogne varietal. It arrived at the LCBO over the weekend, as part of the LCBO VINTAGES Release on June 26.

Domaine la Haute Févrie was founded in the heart of the Muscadet Sèvre et Maine appellation, 18 km southeast of Nantes, Loire, during the First World War by Claude Branger's grandfather. Claude worked alongside his father for many years, and in 2007, Sébastien Branger, Claude's son, joined the domain to become the fourth generation of the family to carefully tend the vines. The estate vines are grown on hills overlooking the Sèvre River, ‎between the communes of Saint-Fiacre and Monnières, and enjoy optimum ripening conditions. The Branger's are conscientious winegrowers, harvesting all of the grapes by hand. Starting in 2016, Sébastien embarked on a vision to convert all of their vineyards to organic farming, and by 2019 all of the domain's parcels was fully certified to organic.

The grapes for this wine come from their "Les Gras Moutons" named single vineyard, which translates to "Fat Sheep", perhaps because there was a well-fed sheep that used to graze on this land. The wine is named "Le Fils des Gras Moutons", which translates to "The Son of the Fat Sheep", perhaps because the first sheep was the father of a lamb.

In all seriousness, "mouton" is actually a variant on the Old French word motton, which means a slight rise or small hill. Thus, "Gras Moutons" refers to larger hill where the grapes for this wine were grown. It is made with 100% Melon de Bourgogne from 26 acres of vines in earlier maturing plots of the Les Gras Moutons vineyard. The vines average 40+ years old and are planted on soils that sit on granite bedrock that is metamorphic gneiss full of mica and quartz. The grapes are hand-picked and rest on lees for 6-7 months prior to bottling.

I've enjoyed this white wine numerous times over the years, including most recently last July when the 2018 Le Fils des Gras Moutons Sur Lie Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine arrived in LCBO VINTAGES last June. Although yields were down in 2019, the quality was very good, especially for white wines. Let's see how this white wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LE FILS DES GRAS MOUTONS SUR LIE MUSCADET SÈVRE-ET-MAINE 2019 - AC, Loire, France (#363150) (XD) - $16.95
100% Melon de Bourgogne. Fresh, intense, lemon-lime citrus, and wet stone aromas with hints of saline, orange peel and musky spice notes rising out of the glass. It's medium+ bodied and ripe on the palate with very good concentration and flavours of lemon-lime citrus, wet stone, oyster shell mineral, saline, and touches of honey. It's nicely balanced throughout with very good acidity and a finely textured mid-palate. It finishes with lovely wet stone minerals and tart lemons on the lip-smacking, juicy finish, with excellent length. Easily the best vintage I've tasted. Chill and enjoy this highly recommended buy. Score: 90 pts

Other lovely wines from Domaine la Haute Févrie can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Paxton AAA Shiraz/Grenache 2019 (Australia) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a lovely organic and biodynamic red wine made with Shiraz and Grenache from Australia that arrived at the LCBO last month as part of the May 15th LCBO VINTAGES Release - with plenty of bottles still available across the province.

Paxton Wines is a family-owned wine company that was founded in 1979 in McLaren Vale by David Paxton, one of Australia's most highly respected viticulturalists. The Paxton family has nurtured their own vineyards in McLaren Vale for over 30 years and produced their first wine in 2000. Today, the family produces wines under direction and guidance of consultant winemaker Kate Goodman and winemaker Ashleigh Seymour.

In 2011, Paxton became a fully certified organic and biodynamic wine producer and today they are considered leaders in both organic and biodynamic viticulture and winemaking. The fruit for all of their wines are sourced from their own estate vineyards in McLaren Vale. These vineyards are spread across a diverse number of sites and soil types, all of which are managed with minimal inputs, including no synthetic fertilisers and pesticides, and focusing on promoting healthy, living soils through the use of natural compost preparation. Lastly, their concept of "terroir" includes the interaction between the vine, it's environment, and the impact of the human element with the moisture balance of the soil being possibly the major influence.

The 2019 vintage of this red wine is a blend of 60% Shiraz and 40% Grenache, with each individual vineyard parcel fermented separately in a combination of open top and static fermenters. After fermentation, the wine was aged in seasoned French oak barriques (225 L) and puncheons (500 L) for 12 months prior to blending and bottling. The growing season in 2019 experienced below average rainfall, as well as regularly very high temperatures. However, due to Paxton's proximity to the Gulf of St. Vincent (a mere 5 km), the cooling winds moderated the extreme weather events. Overall, although yields were down, the berries were intensely flavoured and had very good density, producing structured wines that can be cellared for many years.

Tasting Note:

PAXTON AAA SHIRAZ/GRENACHE 2019 - McLaren Vale, South Australia (#149898) (XD) - $21.95
Screw cap. This organic and biodynamic blend of 60% Shiraz and 40% Grenache has fresh, fragrant, minty herb aromas with ripe raspberry and strawberry, red licorice, spice, and subtle wood notes. It's medium+ bodied on the palate with raspberry, cherry, strawberry, and spice flavours balanced with savoury, earthy, and some mineral notes. It has fresh, energetic acids, and smooth, refined tannins, while mineral, spice, and red berry notes linger on the long finish, with a fine mineral aftertaste. Recommended buy. Score: 90+ pts

Other lovely wines from Paxton can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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LAVAU Rasteau 2017 (Rhône) - Wine Review

I last enjoyed the 2015 LAVAU Rasteau when it came to the LCBO VINTAGES just over 2 years ago, and for tonight's wine review I am delighted to bring you the latest vintage of this perennially delicious Rhône red that arrived at the LCBO this weekend as part of the June 26 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

The Lavau family has been involved in winemaking for several generations, and in 1964 they settled in the Rhône Valley to form Maison LAVAU. Today, the negociant producer is managed by brothers Benoit and Frederic Lavau. They own three cellars in the southern Rhône and have a partnership with over 300 grape growers to produce appellation and cru wines from both southern and northern Rhone Valley. These long-established partnerships with local growers allows Maison LAVAU to choose the best terroir and grapes to craft their blends.

This red wine is a blend of 50% Grenache and 50% Syrah that was grown in the Rasteau cru appellation, from parcels near the village, on east-facing, stony hillsides that are fairly deep and dry, with a pebbly terrain. The grapes were completely de-stemmed and fermented in temperature-controlled vats, then aged in barrels for 12 months, half of which was aged in 450 L barrels that were previously used for 1 or 2 vintages.

In general, southern Rhône experienced frost, rain, and heatwaves, resulting in an early and smaller than normal harvest, especially with Grenache. This also meant that the berries were petite, but with marked concentration. Quality is on par with 2015, but in 2017, the red wines are a bit more structured and ageworthy. Let's see how this 2017 Rasteau is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LAVAU RASTEAU 2017 - AC, Rhône, France (#394650) (XD) - $21.95
This blend of 50% Grenache and 50% Syrah has a fresh, medium-high intensity nose with classic aromas of ripe blackberry, crushed stones, garrigue, spice, and dark plum. It's medium-full bodied on the ripe and spicy palate with dark berry, blackberry, currant, crushed stone, and Provençal herb flavours. Slightly warming on the mid-palate, but it's supported by the fresh, juicy, well-balanced acidity and smooth, refined, and lightly structured and grippy tannins. Stony mineral notes linger on the long, pleasantly satisfying finish. Recommended buy. Score: 90+ pts

The LAVAU Vacqueyras is available at the LCBO, while other lovely wines from Maison LAVAU can be purchased through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Great Italian Wines - Understanding Indigenous Grape Varieties - Fiano di Avellino & Primitivo

On Thursday evening, I had the pleasure of attending the 4th masterclass in the series on "Great Italian Wines - Understanding Indigenous Grape Varieties". This class focused on the white wine Fiano di Avellino, and the red wine Primitivo, which you may also know as Zinfandel.

In this masterclass, we first travel to the southwestern Italy, to visit the wine growing region of Campania. Forming the "shin" of Italy’s boot, the region is surrounded by the wine regions Lazio, Molise, Puglia, and Basilicata, and on its western coast is the famous Amalfi coastline that borders that Tyrrhenian Sea. Campania is made up of 5 Provinces - Naples (Capital), Caserta, Benevento, Avellino, and Sorrento, and also has 3 islands - Capri, Ischia, and Procida.

Campania owes much of its winegrowing success to its varied climates and terroirs. It has an abundance of sunshine, dry and hot summers, mild winters, a long growing season and the volcanic soils from Mount Vesuvius, Campi Flegrei, and Mount Epomeo. The coastal Mediterranean breezes blow in from the Tyrrhenian Sea, tempering the heat and adding freshness and bright acidity to the fruit.

With vine growing and winemaking dating back to the 12th century, Campania is among the oldest wine regions in Italy. They cultivate a wide variety of indigenous grapes, most of which are grown on hilly and mountainous terrain. 60% of the wines produced are red and rosé wines, while 40% are white wines. In my view, Campania makes some of the most interesting white wines in Italy using the varieties Fiano, Greco, and Falanghina.

Fiano is one of Italy's oldest grape varieties and was cultivated during Roman Times. The Romans called this grape "Vitis Apiana", which was Latin for "vine of the bees" as the bees were very attracted to the sweet pulp of this grape. Fiano is mostly grown in Southern Italy, primarily in Campania in the hills surrounding Avellino, and thrives in this warm, dry climate, while also preferring high altitudes and volcanic soils.

The Fiano grape is straw yellow in colour and offers intense aromas and flavours of tropical fruits like pineapple, peach, golden apple, pear, citrus, floral, nutty hazelnut, spice and honey notes with balanced acidity, good weight and texture on the palate, and has good ageing potential. The wine we tasted in this masterclass is from the Summonte sub-zone withing the Fiano di Avellino DOCG appellation, an appellation known for producing some of Italy's most distinguished white wines. This DOCG specifies that 85% of the wine must be Fiano, with varieties Greco, Coda di Volpe, and Trebbiano Toscano permitted to make up the final blend.

For the second topic of this masterclass, we travel east to the winegrowing region of Puglia, the heel of Italy's boot, which is surrounded by the Adriatic Sea to the east, and the Ionian Sea to the south. Puglia is a land of agriculture and a leader in wine and olive production. Although Puglia produces the second most volume of wine in Italy (behind Veneto), a new era has emerged in recent times with a focus on quality over quantity. Approximately two-thirds of the wine produced in Puglia is red, while the remainder is white wine. The landscape is mostly flat, with some hilly terrain, while the climate is sunny, hot, and dry, with Mediterranean winds blowing in from the seas.

Primitivo's origin's are unknown at this time, but it is thought to have existed since the 8th century B.C., before Greek colonization. The name Primitivo translates to "early one" as this varietal is early ripening. Today, Primitivo's home is in Puglia and is the region's most famous variety. With over 12,000 hectares of vines cultivated, Primitivo is among Italy's top 10 most planted red varieties. It is worth mentioning that Zinfandel - commonly found in California - is genetically the same as Primitivo.

Primitivo is a dark blue skinned grape with high pigmentation, but can be fussy to cultivate and cellar. It grows best in dry and hot climates and accumulates a lot of sugar - hence, the perceived sweetness in many Primitivo wines. The aromas and flavours commonly found in Primitivo wines are fruit forward with black cherry, blueberry, blackberry, plum, prune, marmalade, violet, spice, and earthiness, and acquire additional complexities when aged in wood. The wines tend to be high in alcohol with good tannins, full bodied, rich, and smooth.

The tasting kit for this masterclass included an antipasto platter with authentically Italian Grana Padano DOP cheese, Fior di Latte from Campania, Olive Verdi di Cerignola from Puglia, and a traditionally Puglian Focaccia Barese that was made in-house by Head Baker Luca Rotatori at Spaccio, Terroni's central kitchen.

Previous masterclasses explored Montepulciano & Aglianico, Sangiovese & Vernaccia di San Gimignano, and Nebbiolo & Valpolicella. These classes are quite informative and the wines are fantastic! I am very much looking forward to the final masterclass in the series that takes place in September, where we will explore the volcanic wines of Mount Etna in Sicily. Anyone can register for the free online masterclass via the Italian Chamber of Commerce of Ontario Canada, as well as purchase the wines by the bottle through the Agent - Cavinona - so you can taste along. For a limited time, use special discount code ICCOJUNE for 10% off any case purchase on Cavinona.com.

@trueitaliantaste #ExtraordinaryItalianTaste #TrueItalianTaste #iffoodcouldtalk

Tasting Notes:

GUIDO MARSELLA FIANO DI AVELLINO 2018 - DOCG, Campania, Italy (XD) - $43.93
100% Fiano from Summonte that was organically grown at 650 metres elevation on clay and rocky soils. Aged on fine lees in stainless steel tanks for 12 months. Clean, fragrant, and elegant aromas of ripe tropical fruit, peach, golden apple, and citrus with subtle nutty notes. It’s medium+ bodied with very good fruit concentration and slightly oily texture on the structured palate with ripe golden apple, pear, and citrus with leesy mineral and saline adding savoury notes to the flavour profile. It has fresh, bright acidity, while the leesy mineral flavours linger on the long, structured finish. Score: 92 pts

CARVINEA PRIMITIVO 2017 - IGT Salento, Puglia, Italy (D) - $28.11
Grown on tufaceous and calcareous soils, this 100% Primitivo was aged in French oak for 9 months. The fresh, medium-high intensity aromas offer sweet spice, dark berry and cherry notes with touches of plum and raisin. Pretty floral aromas appear with time in the glass. On the medium+ bodied palate, it has juicy acidity and refined, textured tannins. It is slightly off-dry (i.e. a touch sweet) and jammy on the flavour profile with more sweet spices, dark berry, and licorice flavours that tapers to savoury, minerally and slightly spicy with very good length on the persistent finish. Score: 90+ pts

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June 26, 2021 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: Cottage Wines + California

The main theme of the June 26, 2021 LCBO VINTAGES Release features cool wines for the cottage, while the mini-theme looks at hot wines from California. All of these wines, plus those from the main release should be on LCBO shelves across Ontario by this Saturday.

From the main theme on wines for the cottage, or simply summer sipping, six of the sixteen wines featured are included among my top wine picks. In the "super sipping" category, there is a fine Greco di Tufo from Campania, as well as a dry rosé from Niagara that is made with 95% Pinot Noir and 5% Viognier. The other four wines have great complexity and are ideal for grilled foods. First up is a brilliant Chenin Blanc from South Africa, while the other white wine is a lovely Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. The red wines include a Cabernet Franc from Argentina, and the Castello di Querceto Chianti Classico which consists of 92% Sangiovese and 8% Canaiolo.

Of the eleven wines featured as part of the mini-theme on "hot" wines from California, the lone wine included among my top wine recommendations is a high-quality Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast.

There are a pair of fine Tuscan reds as part of my top red wine picks. First up is the Montepaldi Chianti Classico that consists of 80% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet, 5% Merlot, 5% Alicante, and 5% Colorino, while the Fontodi Chianti Classico is made with 100% Sangiovese. From Rhône, the Rasteau consists of 50% Grenache and 50% Syrah, while the Crozes-Hermitage is made with Syrah. The last blend is made with Tannat, Pinenc (a native Occtaine grape with different names by location), and Cabernet Sauvignon from Southwest, France.

Among my white wine picks, the Ventoux is a blend of Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, and Clairette, while the Vinho Verde is a blend of Loureiro and Alvarinho. The rest are all single varietal wines, including a Melon de Bourgogne from Loire, and a Turbiana (similar to Verdicchio) from Lugana. On the local front, there is a fine Chardonnay from Niagara.

Lastly, the rosé wines are both blends crafted in a dry style. The rosé from Provence is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault, while the rosé from Italy is an unspecified blend of red grapes.

Enjoy my top wine recommendations from this release! Cheers!

Red Wine:

• MONTEPALDI TAGLIAFUNE CHIANTI CLASSICO 2016 - Single vineyard, DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#18588) (XD) - $17.00
• MI TERRUÑO EXPRESIÓN CABERNET FRANC 2016 - Mendoza, Argentina (#22007) (XD) - $17.95
• SAINT MONT LES VIEILLES VIGNES 2016 - AC, Southwest, France (#10316) (XD) - $19.95
• HACIENDA ARAUCANO HUMO BLANCO EDICION LIMITADA CARMENÈRE 2019 - Lolol Valley, Chile (#19243) (XD) - $19.95
• LAVAU RASTEAU 2017 - AC, Rhône, France (#394650) (XD) - $21.95  90+ pts  wine review
• CASTELLO DI QUERCETO CHIANTI CLASSICO 2017 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#680496) (XD) - $23.95
• CAVE DE TAIN HÉRITIERS GAMBERT NOBLES RIVES CROZES-HERMITAGE 2018 - Sustainable, AC, Rhône, France (#572230) (XD) - $25.95  91+ wine review
• LECONFIELD COONAWARRA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017 - Coonawarra, South Australia (#18476) (XD) - $34.95  FE
• FONTODI CHIANTI CLASSICO 2016 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#933317) (XD) - $39.95
• FLOWERS PINOT NOIR 2018 - Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California, USA (#215202) (XD) - $64.95

White Wine:

• PAUL JABOULET AÎNÉ VENTOUX LES TRAVERSES 2018 - AC Côtes du Ventoux, Rhône, France (#18615) (XD) - $13.95
• MARIA PAPOILA LOUREIRO/ALVARINHO 2019 - DOC Vinho Verde, Portugal (#408146) (XD) - $16.95
• LE FILS DES GRAS MOUTONS SUR LIE MUSCADET SÈVRE-ET-MAINE 2019 - AC, Loire, France (#363150) (XD) - $16.95  90 pts  wine review
• TRE FIORI GRECO DI TUFO 2019 - DOCG, Campania, Italy (#17677) (XD) - $17.95
• KEN FORRESTER OLD VINE RESERVE CHENIN BLANC 2020 - WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#231282) (XD) - $17.95
• LEANING POST THE FIFTY CHARDONNAY 2019 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#578864) (XD) - $22.95
• TENUTA ROVEGLIA VIGNE DI CATULLO LUGANA RISERVA 2016 - DOC, VQPRD, Lombardy, Italy (#437004) (D) - $28.95
• VILLA MARIA TAYLORS PASS SINGLE VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2019 - Sustainable, Awatere Valley, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#13901) (XD) - $29.95  91+ pts  wine review

Rosé Wine:

• ALBINO ARMANI ROSÉ 2020 - IGT Vallagarina, Trentino, Italy (#19852) (XD) - $14.95
• SAINT AIX ROSÉ 2020 - AP Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, France (#451906) (XD) - $24.95
• HIDDEN BENCH LOCUST LANE ROSÉ 2020 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#68833) (XD) - $24.95

Fortified:

• LUSTAU EAST INDIA SOLERA SHERRY - DO, Spain (#342931) (S) (500 mL) - $26.95  91 pts  wine review

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Studert-Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2012 (Mosel) - Wine Review

Happy Father's Day to all the dad's out there! For tonight's wine review I dive into my cellar for this lovely Mosel Riesling that I purchased nearly 7 years ago when it arrived at the LCBO as part of the September 13, 2014 LCBO VINTAGES Release. Of course, this vintage is long sold out, while the 2018 vintage appeared on VINTAGES shelves back in April for a few dollars more, with plenty still available for purchase.

Tasting Note:

STUDERT-PRÜM GRAACHER HIMMELREICH RIESLING KABINETT 2012 - Prädikatswein, Gutsabfüllung, Mosel, Germany (#160853) (M) - $20.95
Screw cap. Gorgeous, highly aromatic nose is complex and elegant, delivering petrol and beeswax, plus apple, peach, pear, lemon citrus, some ripe tropical fruit and pineapple notes. It's medium-full bodied and richly concentrated with lovely, fairly sweet flavours of orange citrus, honey, and roasted pineapple with touches of petrol and wet stone. The sweetness is balanced with still vibrant acidity, while wet stone, slate, petrol, and mineral flavours linger on the finish, with excellent length. Will continue to drink well into the late 20's, maybe even longer. Score: 93 pts

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Laura Hartwig Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (Chile) - Wine Review

Following up on the delicious 2018 Laura Hartwig Single Vineyard Carménère that I enjoyed back in April, tonight's wine review is another delicious offering from the same producer. This Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon arrived at the LCBO last weekend and was featured as part of theme on wines from Chile in the June 12 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Laura Hartwig Premium Wines, a winery whose roots go back to when Osvaldo Bisquertt purchased the property in 1928 to cultivate annual crops and raise cattle. In 1966, his daughter Laura Bisquert inherited the "Santa Laura" farm and further expanded the estate. While living in Toronto and Montreal in the 1970's, Laura and her husband, Alejandro Hartwig, developed a passion for wine and decided to turn their estate back in Chile into a winery. Together, they planted their first vines in 1978 with the aim of producing wines that reflect their origin in Santa Cruz, the heart of the Colchagua Valley. Laura Hartwig uses a non-interventionist philosophy and human scale production to craft their wines. In this way, they are able to take detailed care with each step of the winemaking process.

This Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is composed of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot that was crafted from carefully selected 40 year old vines grown in the town of Santa Cruz, in central Chile's Colchagua Valley. The soils here are clay on the surface with sandy deposits in the deeper strata. The grapes were hand-harvested, then gently destemmed and sorted, fermented in stainless steel tanks, and then aged in French oak barrels and staves for 13 months. Let's see how this Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LAURA HARTWIG SINGLE VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2018 - DO Colchagua Valley, Chile (#13428) (XD) - $16.95
This Cabernet Sauvignon, which includes 5% Petit Verdot has a fresh, medium-high intensity nose that delivers aromas of red and black fruit, cassis, currant, herbal and spice with savoury undertones. The fresh and chewy, medium-full bodied palate has ripe red and black fruit, currant, cassis, and herbal aroma replays on the flavour profile that turns savoury on the mid-palate. Acids are fresh, while the finely textured, powdery tannins are a touch drying. Savoury graphite with hints of dark berry linger on the finish, with good length. Score: 88 pts

The aforementioned Carménère can be found at the LCBO, while other delicious wines from Laura Hartwig can be ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group, who also now offer Air Miles® Reward Miles with purchase.

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