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  • Date publishedThursday, January 26, 2023

Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret Petit Chablis 2020 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

white wine review is a lovely Chardonnay from Burgundy that newly landed at the LCBO as part of last weekend's LCBO VINTAGES Release on .

It is produced by Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret, a small family-owned estate whose history inscribed in vine cultivation and winemaking dating back to 1713. It all began in the early 18th century with Jean Vocoret, whose winemaking soul no doubt guided him to pass down his wisdom, his fruits, his passion, and the nobility of winemaking to his descendants,

The Domaine's more recent history of winemaking in Chablis begins with Victor Hyppolite Vocoret, the great, great grandfather of Yvon Vocoret. Born in 1863, Victor had a few acres of vineyards and some leaflets in the cellar. Henri Vocoret, born in 1895, and alongside his wife Louise were the grandparents of Yvon and they managed to make the land prosper with the help of their horses, and were very proud to produce excellent wine.

The fourth generation of the family to own the estate were Yvon's parents, Maurice (1928-1997) and Huguette (1933), who carefully reflected upon the art of winemaking and invested in high performance equipment for the cellar. Maurice and Huguette knew how to anticipate and plan so that the quality of their wines would be recognized.

Today, the Domaine is led by Yvon, the 5th generation of the family, and his son, Yvon, the 6th generation, together with Huguette, as they uphold the family motto - quality, dignity, and respect - and continue to write the story of a humble, but determined family of winegrowers who craft wines that bring pleasure. Since 1974, the Vocoret family has been farming the vineyards organically to respect and protect their vines and soils, as well as the environment. They have also been using organic soil materials which forces the soil to do its own work in order to transform the organic materials to minerals, so that the vine can feed itself and grow fruit in a natural, sustainable way and guarantee a quality vintage, year after year. The wines of Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret represent the essence of their exceptional terroir.

This Petit Chablis is crafted with 100% Chardonnay that was sourced from various plots covering 4 hectares of land throughout the appellation of Petit Chablis. The vines average 30 years of age and were planted on Portlandian Barrois clay-limestone and limestone marl soils which also feature red pebbles and a reddish-brown colour. Each plot of grapes were harvested at maturity and either manually or mechanically. It underwent a light static settling to retain the fine lees so that the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations can take place naturally. And finally, each plot was aged for approximately 9 months in stainless steel vats to preserve its fresh characteristics and allow plot to express itself prior to creating the final blend.

The 2020 growing season was warm and dry, yielding grapes with exceptional freshness and purity. The white wines of Burgundy classically styled, balanced, and consistently of a very high quality. As the 2020 vintage is such a fine vintage across the board, let's see how this 2020 Petit Chablis is tasting tonight...

Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret Petit Chablis 2020 (91 pts)

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE YVON & LAURENT VOCORET PETIT CHABLIS 2020 - AC, Burgundy, France (#26446) (XD) - $27.95
This lovely Chardonnay has an elegant, medium-high intensity nose offering a lovely mix of ripe lemon, citrus, mineral oil, nutty, lactic, green apple, and white peach aromas. It is impressively weighted and quite structured on the medium-full bodied palate with lactic, mineral, lemon citrus, and green apple flavours supported by juicy, well-balanced acidity. Lemon citrus, apple, and white peach taper to leesy mineral notes on the long, crisp finish. Enjoyable now, but will be even better in a year or two. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

There is a Chablis 1er Cru available at the LCBO, while other lovely wines from their portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.


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  • Date publishedTuesday, January 24, 2023

Delheim Grand Reserve 2017 (South Africa) - Wine Review

red wine review is an excellent Bordeaux variety blend from South Africa that newly arrived at the LCBO over the weekend as part of the LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Delheim Wines is a family business that was established in 1938 when Hans Otto Hoheisen purchased the farm, which had various owners over the years, as a retirement home for himself and his wife Deli. The name "Delheim" is German for "Deli's home". They started by planting citrus trees but quickly discovered that the area wasn't suited to Delheim because of the windy conditions. Their German friends suggested that they grow vineyards and two years later Hans Otto planted his first grape vines.

In 1944, the concrete tanks in the cellar were completed by Italian prisoners-of-war. Several years later, Deli mentioned to her nephew in Germany that she needed help on the wine farm in South Africa, and because he didn't see a future in post-war Germany, he decided to join them and arrived in South Africa in 1951. Her nephew's name was Michael "Spatz" Sperling - Sperling is the German word for "sparrow" and Spatz means "baby sparrow".

Michael Sperling soon took a keen interest in the few vineyards Hans Otto had planted. As Michael knew nothing about winemaking, and there were no books or winemaking schools in South Africa at the time, he taught himself through a process of trial and error and with some help from neighbours and visiting German winemakers. Over time, Spatz established himself as a serious winemarker and garnered numerous awards. He also embarked on a series of pioneering initiatives in the South African wine industry over the ensuing decades.

In 1971, patriarch Spatz Sperling’s far-sightedness led him to buy 80 hectares of prime red-wine land on the Klapmutskop mountain, about 3 kilometres from Delheim, as the crow flies in a westerly direction. This property was called Delvera in honour of Spatz’s wife, Vera, while the vineyards are called Vera Cruz - Cruz meaning "cross", allegedly for the cross Vera has had to bear during her long marriage to Spatz! With its warmer, drier climate, and sandier soils, Vera Cruz was better suited to growing high-quality red wines. Delvera is planted mainly with Cabernet Sauvignon, predominantly grown as bush vines and today aged between 15 and 37 years, along with some Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

Today, Delheim is owned by the Sperling family. Vera still resides on the farm, while the late Michael Hans "Spatz" Sperling is the Patriarch and a South African wine industry legend. Their eldest son, Victor Sperling, and eldest daughter, Nora Sperling-Thiel, serve as Directors of the company and live on the farm with their families, while their other two children, Maria and Nicholas, live in Europe.

In the vineyard, their philosophy is that they are custodians of the land and must tread lightly in order to minimize the impact they have on it, as well as creating balance and harmony in the vineyards. They also strive to gain a sense of timelessness by allowing their vineyards to grow old, tell their stories and allowing the wines to gain a sense of place, while also keeping an eye on the future, seeking longevity and sustainability. Delheim also practices precision farming by embracing technologies to improve the quality of their vineyards and grapes.

This red wine is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc that was grown on their Vera Cruz property. The soil at Vera Cruz has an Oakleaf profile with mainly decomposed granite, and faces southwest on a slope between 220 to 280 metres above sea level. The grapes were handpicked and in small batches and fermented in a combination of open-top fermenters and vertical stainless steel tanks. The was was matured in 300 L French oak barrels for 18 months, and only the finest barrels were selected for this Grand Reserve blend.

From an excellent vintage, let's see how this 2017 Cabernet Merlot blend from South Africa is tasting tonight...

Delheim Grand Reserve 2017 (92+ pts)

Tasting Note:

DELHEIM GRAND RESERVE 2017 - WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#26094) (XD) - $31.95
A blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. The highly aromatic nose is fresh and fragrant with ripe blackberry, black currant, fine wood spices, and savoury earth aromas, with intriguing touches of cassis, tomato leaf, and graphite. It's full-ish bodied on the dry, chewy palate with very good concentration and complex, lightly tangy flavours of ripe dark berry, blackberry, currant, tomato leaf, and some pipe tobacco and graphite notes. It has fresh, juicy, and well-balanced acidity, while the structured tannins are smooth, refined, and well-integrated. There's a pleasing, subtly chalky mouthfeel on the back palate. Savoury, graphite mineral notes linger on the long, very satisfying finish. Maturing nicely, enjoy this delicious, highly recommended buy to the end of the decade. Score: 92+ pts

Other lovely wines by Delheim can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.


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  • Date publishedSunday, January 22, 2023

LAVAU Rasteau 2019 (Rhône) - Wine Review

red wine review is a lovely Rhône red wine from the southern Rhône Valley Cru of Rasteau that arrived at the LCBO this weekend in the LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Maison LAVAU was founded in 1965 after the Lavau family, who had been involved in winemaking for several generations, took charge of a small winemaking cellar a year earlier in Sablet, in the southern Rhône Valley. It was established by Jean-Guy Lavau, the third generation of the family, and his wife Anne-Marie as they returned to France from Tunisia. Together, Jean-Guy and Anne-Marie Lavau built a reputation as top quality winemakers in the region thanks to their dedication to high standards, attention to detail, and thirst for excellence. Recognized as a major local player, Maison LAVAU has developed close ties with other winegrowers, especially in the southern Rhône Valley.

Today, Maison LAVAU is run by their two sons - Frédéric and Benoît Lavau. After completing their studies in Canada, Frédéric joined the family business in 1995, and Benoît quickly followed in 1997. The Lavau brothers official took charge of the Maison in 2000 when their parents retired. Their youth, energy and adventurous spirit allowed them to further structure and develop the Maison, including building a new cellar in Violès, and investing in modern, high-performance cellar facilities. As talented winemakers and wine traders, the Lavau brothers also invested in vineyards to also become producers of wine. Maison LAVAU is today one of the last family-run and independent wine estates in the Rhône Valley. Their objective is to offer the very best of the Rhône Valley by producing top quality wines that are fine, generous, and affordable.

Like previous vintages, including the 2017 LAVAU Rasteau that I enjoyed a couple of years ago, this southern Rhône Valley red continues to be a blend of 50% Grenache and 50% Syrah. The village of Rasteau is situated on the summit of a hill at an altitude of 200 metres. The grapes for this wine come from parcels located near the village, on east-facing, stony hillsides that have a Mediterranean climate and offer some protection from the Mistral wind. The vineyards are planted on fairly deep, fairly dry, and pebbly terrain, which results in low yields and late ripening grapes.

It was vinified by completely de-stemming the grapes and placing them in temperature-controlled vats to macerate for around 25 days with rack-and-return operations at the start of fermentation, followed by two pumping-over operations per day. The wine was then aged in barrels for 12 months, with half going into 450 L second- or third-use barrels.

The 2019 growing season began with a wet winter setting the table for the region's vineyards to get through the hot, dry growing season. Grenache, in particular, excelled this vintage as it coped well with the severely hot weather and cooler nights that helped it retain acidity and aromas. Overall, the excellent 2019 vintage is a powerful, ripe vintage with localized areas of greatness. Let's see how this 2019 southern Rhône Valley red from Rasteau is tasting tonight...

LAVAU Rasteau 2019 (90+ pts)

Tasting Note:

LAVAU RASTEAU 2019 - AC, Rhône, France (#394650) (XD) - $23.95
Blend of 50% Grenache and 50% Syrah. The fragrant nose of medium-high intensity delivers lovely, perfumed aromas of dark berry, black cherry, black plum, peppery spice, and meaty notes with subtle whiffs of violet, floral, and oak. It's medium-full bodied with ripe, dark fruited flavours of black cherry, black plum, cassis, peppery spice, violet, meaty, and subtle wood. It's slightly spicy on the mid-palate and has fresh, lively acidity, along with smooth, ripe, refined, and lightly chewy and well-structured tannins. Lovely smoky mineral notes linger on the long-lasting, juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Limited quantities of one other Maison LAVAU wine is available at the LCBO, while the rest of their portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.


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  • Date publishedFriday, January 20, 2023

Gunderloch Fritz's Riesling 2021 (Rheinhessen) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, off-dry Riesling from Germany that is featured as a Smart Buy in the recent January 7 LCBO VINTAGES Release and is readily available across the Ontario.

Weingut Gunderloch was founded in 1890 when banker Carl Gunderloch purchased the fabled Nackenheimer Rothenberg. Not content with just making wine, Carl had a pioneering spirit and led the charge toward quality-oriented viticulture within the region and was a fierce proponent of fine winemaking culture. Gunderloch is a founding member of what is now known as the Verein Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter (VDP), a prestigious association of Germany's finest winegrowers, and one of only four estates to have remained a member for the entire span, which goes back to 1910. The estate has been passed down through six generations of the Gunderloch family, with Johannes Hasselbach taking over the winemaking reins upon the sad passing in 2016 of renowned winemaker Fritz Hasselbach.

The 28 hectare estate and Gunderloch family residence is situated within the Rheinhessen appellation. They craft clear, mineral-driven wines, working primarily with Riesling, which reflect the family's unique blend of experience and ingenuity. The centrepiece of Gunderloch are their vineyards on Roter Hang (aka Red Hill), one of Germany's most revered and richly historical vineyards. Set on picturesque, steep slopes that rise above the Rhine river between the towns of Nackenheim and Nierstein, Roter Hang has very special, iron-oxide laced red shale and clayey soils known as Rotliegend, which have taken on an almost mythical status among wine aficionados.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Riesling grapes that were grown on vivid red slate soils on Roter Hang. The vineyards are situated on steep, southeast facing slopes very close to the river Rhine. The four factors - the red slate soil, the closeness to the river, great sun exposure, and the steepness of the vineyards - are the ideal combination to produce high-quality Riesling. This particular Riesling was fermented naturally with indigenous yeasts and, uncommonly, aged in 600 L neutral oak barrels. From one of the most challenging vintages in recent memory, let's see how this 2021 Riesling from Germany is tasting tonight...

Gunderloch Fritz's Riesling 2021 (89 pts)

Tasting Note:

GUNDERLOCH FRITZ'S RIESLING 2021 - Qualitätswein, Rheinhessen, Germany (#216366) (M) - $17.95
Screw cap. The medium+ intensity aromatics seem rather quiet, with notes of orchard fruits, apple, peach, and citrus. It's light-to-mid weighted on the palate with fresh, juicy, and bracing acidity that lifts the lovely honeyed, apple, peach, and citrus flavours, gliding over the tongue in an off-dry profile. It's nicely balanced throughout with a subtle chalky textured mouthfeel on the mid-palate, while mineral notes appear and linger through to the long, dry-ish finish. A smart (and highly recommended) buy. Score: 89 pts

You can get other lovely wines by Weingut Gunderloch at the LCBO and through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.


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  • Date publishedFriday, January 20, 2023

January 21, 2023 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: California

LCBO Wine Picks: January 21, 2023 VINTAGES Release
Here's my top wine picks from the January 21, 2023 LCBO VINTAGES Release which focuses on California's top wine regions as the theme of the release. Also included in this release is a selection of Online Exclusives (VOE) that will also be available at select Flagship Store locations.

The theme is titled "Places in the Sun" and looks at California's top wine regions. There are ten wines featured as part of the theme, and while there are a couple of wines from here that I would happily recommend, just one wine is included among my top wine picks - a consistently well-made Cabernet Sauvignon from Alexander Valley from a solid producer.

Rodney Strong Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 (91+ pts)

Moving on to my top red wine picks from the rest of the release, for Rhône wine lovers there is the Lirac that is a blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah, while the Rasteau is equal parts Grenache and Syrah. From Spain, the 2017 Rioja is a composed of 85% Tempranillo and 15% Graciano / Mazuelo / Garnacha, while the 2015 Rioja is a blend of Tempranillo and Graciano. Fans of Bordeaux blends will want to seek out the premium wine from South Africa that is composed of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc, or the wine from Washington that is a blend of 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Carmenere, and 1% Merlot, or the budget-friendly 2015 Bordeaux that is a blend of 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Cabernet Franc. Wines from Italy include a Tuscan red crafted with 90% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the Barolo which is, of course, made with Nebbiolo.

Xavier Vignon Lirac 2019 (91 pts)LAVAU Rasteau 2019 (90+ pts)

Delheim Grand Reserve 2017 (92+ pts)Powers Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (89 pts)

Mirafiore Barolo 2016 (92+ pts)Castello Vicchiomaggio Agostino Petri Riserva Chianti Classico 2018 (91 pts)

Barón de Ley Gran Reserva 2015 (92+ pts)CVNE Imperial Reserva 2017

Among my white wine recommendations, the Rhône white is a blend of 50% Grenache Blanc, 30% Roussanne, 15% Clairette, and 5% Viognier, while the Portuguese white is composed of 50% Loureiro, 40% Arinto, and 10% Trajadura. The other white wines are all mono-varietal wines, with both the Petit Chablis and the Chilean white crafted with Chardonnay.

Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret Petit Chablis 2020 (91 pts)

Sparkling wine recommendations in this release include a Champagne which is crafted with 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, as well as a Cava which is made with 75% Macabeo and 25% Chardonnay. For sweet wine lovers, there is a lovely Sauternes that is crafted with 91% Sémillon and 9% Sauvignon Blanc, and a Sherry which is made with 100% Pedro Ximénez.

Vilmart et Cie Grande Réserve 1er Cru Champagne (92 pts)Segura Viudas Heredad Reserva Brut Cava (91 pts)

Enjoy my top wine recommendations from this release! Cheers!

Red Wine:

  • CHÂTEAU LES PINS DE BOSSUET 2015 - AC Bordeaux Supérieur, France (#26305) (XD) - $16.95
  • WAKEFIELD PINOT NOIR 2021 - South Australia (#197392) (XD) - $19.95  89 pts  wine review
  • POWERS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2018 - Columbia Valley, Washington, USA (#434456) (XD) - $19.95  89 pts  wine review
  • SALENTEIN RESERVE MALBEC 2020 - Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina (#640854) (XD) - $19.95
  • MONTERRA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019 - Vegan, McLaren Vale, South Australia (#12835) (XD) - $19.95
  • LAVAU RASTEAU 2019 - AC, Rhône, France (#394650) (XD) - $23.95  90+ pts  wine review
  • XAVIER VIGNON LIRAC 2019 - AP, Rhône, France (#636183) (XD) - $24.95  91 pts  wine review

  • CASTELLO VICCHIOMAGGIO AGOSTINO PETRI RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2018 - 47th Anniversary, sustainable, DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#993360) (XD) - $30.95  91 pts  wine review
  • DELHEIM GRAND RESERVE 2017 - WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#26094) (XD) - $31.95  92+ pts  wine review
  • BARÓN DE LEY GRAN RESERVA 2015 - Vegan, DOCa Rioja, Spain (#642496) (XD) - $32.95  92+ pts  wine review
  • RODNEY STRONG ALEXANDER VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019 - Sustainable, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California, USA (#350454) (XD) - $35.95  91+ pts  wine review
  • CVNE IMPERIAL RESERVA 2017 - DOCa Rioja, Spain (#424390) (XD) - $39.95
  • MIRAFIORE BAROLO 2016 - DOCG, Piedmont, Italy (#26908) (XD) - $49.95  92+ pts  wine review
Wakefield Pinot Noir 2021 (89 pts)

White Wine:

  • ARCA NOVA VINHO VERDE 2021 - Vegan, DOC, Portugal (#292029) (XD) - $13.95
  • CHÂTEAU DE NAGES HÉRITAGE BLANC 2020 - AC Costières de Nîmes, Rhône, France (#479659) (XD) - $22.95
  • DOMAINE YVON & LAURENT VOCORET PETIT CHABLIS 2020 - AC, Burgundy, France (#26446) (XD) - $27.95  91 pts  wine review
  • CLOS HENRI SAUVIGNON BLANC 2019 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#675629) (XD) - $29.95
  • TARA ATACAMA WHITE WINE 1 2020 - Unfiltered, DO Valle de Atacama, Chile (#511337) (XD) - $54.95  VOE

Sparkling Wine:

  • SEGURA VIUDAS HEREDAD RESERVA BRUT CAVA - Traditional method, DO, Spain (#558825) (D) - $39.95  91 pts  wine review
  • VILMART ET CIE GRANDE RÉSERVE 1ER CRU CHAMPAGNE - AC, France (#12619) (D) - $73.95  92 pts  wine review

Dessert Wine:

  • CASTELNAU DE SUDUIRAUT 2015 - Second wine of Château Suduiraut, AC Sauternes, Bordeaux, France (#29694) (S) (375mL) - $26.95  VOE

Fortified Wine:

  • GONZÁLEZ BYASS NECTAR PEDRO XIMÉNEZ DULCE SHERRY - Vegan, DO, Spain (#87577) (S) - $26.95


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  • Date publishedWednesday, January 18, 2023

Tenuta Iuzzolini Cirò Rosso Classico 2021 (Calabria) - Wine Review

red wine review is a delicious red wine from Calabria crafted with the indigenous Gaglioppo variety that arrived at the LCBO just over a week ago as part of the recent LCBO VINTAGES Release on .

Tenuta Iuzzolini was founded in 2004 by Fortunato Iuzzolini and his wife Giovanna Colicchio, and the couple transferred their love and passion for the land to their four sons who are also now part of the Estate. Located in Cirò, a small Calabrian town with Greek roots along the Ionian coast of Crotone, they have approximately 500 hectares of land on the Estate with 100 hectares planted to vineyards, 50 hectares to secular olive groves, 100 hectares of arable land, and the remaining land consists of pastures and woods for livestock raised in the wild.

The soils at Tenuta Iuzzolini are of clayey-limestone and sandy origin, and very fertile because they are rich in natural springs. It experiences a Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers and short, rainy winters, providing the ideal conditions for growing vines and olive trees. In addition to making quality wines, the goal of the Iuzzolini family is to recover and enhance native Calabrian vines, namely Greco Bianco, Gaglioppo, and Magliocco. The most widely planted of the three varieties is Gaglioppo as it has been cultivated for thousands of years in the area of Cirò and thrives because it has adapted to the dry climate and resists disease. Today, the family employs 35 workers to perform specific tasks within the company, a number which triples during the grape and olive harvest period.

While the 2017 Tenuta Iuzzolini Cirò Rosso Classico that I tasted a couple of years ago was crafted with 100% Gaglioppo, this vintage, according to the back label, is crafted with mainly Gaglioppo. The grapes were grown in the "Timpa Bianca" area, in Cirò Marina, in the central eastern part of the province of Crotone, Calabria. The vineyards are situated 50 to 100 metres above sea level and planted on white clay soils, and experience a Mediterranean climate with mild winters and hot, dry summers. The grapes were manually harvested during the first week of October and underwent a traditional fermentation, followed by ageing in steel for 5 months with a short passage in barriques. Let's see how this 2021 Gaglioppo from Calabria is tasting tonight...

Tenuta Iuzzolini Cirò Rosso Classico 2021 (88 pts)

Tasting Note:

TENUTA IUZZOLINI CIRÒ ROSSO CLASSICO 2021 - DOC, Calabria, Italy (#13034) (XD) - $19.95
Crafted mainly with the Gaglioppo variety, the medium+ intensity nose is lightly candied and fruit forward with ripe red fruits, red cherry, red plum, raspberry, plus some spices and savoury wood undertones adding interest. It's medium+ bodied and dry on the palate with delicious red berry, raspberry, red plum, and spice flavours supported by fresh, juicy acidity and supple, rounded tannins. The red berry, plum, and spice notes are joined by a touch of mineral on the finish, with very good length. Enjoy this recommended buy over the next few years. Score: 88 pts

Other delicious wines by Tenuta Iuzzolini can be ordered through their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.


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  • Date publishedMonday, January 16, 2023

Michele Chiarlo Tortoniano Barolo 2017 (Piedmont) - Wine Review

After enjoying the beautiful 2018 Michele Chiarlo Reyna Barbaresco back in November, red wine review is a lovely Barolo that landed at the LCBO a couple of weekends ago as part of the VINTAGES Release.

Even though Michele Chiarlo was only established in the 1950s, its story begins in 1898 with the birth of Pietro Chiarlo who was born into a farming family in Bubbio. Pietro worked as a farmhand and then at the winery in Canelli during his adolescent years, and in the 1930s, after working for a period in Abyssinia, he returned to Calamandrana determined to invest in the estate and production of wine. Peitro, along with his brother Felice, tilled the lands, breaking the soil by hand to replant the vineyards, and had a sense that wine was the future of the Piedmont hills.

Michele Chiarlo, Pietro's first son, was born in 1935, and he attended a winemaking school in Alba and his classmates were the future protagonists of Italian winemaking: Renato Ratti, Ezio Rivella, Franco Ziliani, Giuliano Noè, and Giacomo Tachis. In 1956, Michele Chiarlo started his adventure as a producer of wine and understood that quality wine in the Piedmont hills began with the choice of vineyards in the most suitable areas. The first cru of Barolo bottled under his name dates back to 1958.

Through the 1960s, Michele expanded the market boundaries for wine, and was among the first producers in Piedmont to believe in the success of Italian wines abroad. He consolidated his success by building a larger, more functional winery in Calamandrana, and began purchasing select vineyards in important positions in Langhe, Monferrato, and the area of Gavi. As a founding member across a number of organizations, including Istituto Grandi Marchi and Accademia del Barolo, the family wine business of Michele Chiarlo is now run by Michele and his two sons Stefano and Alberto Chiarlo. Together, they have an international outlook with great attention to the details at home, including the maniacal care of the vineyards, vinification while respecting the terroirs and vines, and artisanship of the processes. Situated in Calamandrana, Michele Chiarlo is one of the most important oenological realities in Piedmont.

This Barolo is crafted with 100% Nebbiolo grown on calcareous marl clay soils of sedimentary marine origin from the Tortonian period of 9 million years ago. The soil is also composed of 12% active limestone and a basic pH, with a significant presence of micro-elements, specifically magnesium and manganese. The vineyards have southeast and southwest exposure to the sun. After manually harvesting the grapes, it was vinified in steel tanks and underwent 17 to 18 days of skin maceration, with a soft "shower" system of wetting the cap at a temperature between 32°C and 27°C. It was aged for a minimum of 3 years, with the first 24 months spent in average-sized oak casks, followed by refinement in bottle.

According to winemaker Stefano Chiarlo, the 2017 was characterized by a long summer with very little rainfall. In the vineyard, they adopted agronomic practices that allowed them to keep the soil moist and preserve the freshness of the grapes. Some of these practices include doing extraordinary work on the soil to oxygenate the roots, not eliminating excess leaves to prevent sunlight from directly hitting the bunches and avoiding sunburn, while also delaying leaf thinning operations in order not to risk damaging the fruit. To maintain elegance, freshness, and avoid excessive alcohol content, harvest was brought forward by about ten days compared to normal. Chiarlo thinks that 2017 can be compared to vintages such as 2007 or 2011 in terms of climate and organoleptic characteristics. Let's see how this 2017 Barolo is tasting tonight...

Michele Chiarlo Tortoniano Barolo 2017 (92 pts)

Tasting Note:

MICHELE CHIARLO TORTONIANO BAROLO 2017 - DOCG, Piedmont, Italy (#586388) (XD) - $44.95
100% Nebbiolo. Intensely fragrant with lovely, complex aromas of new leather, earth, red cherry-berry, fine wood spices, juniper berry, and cedar, with touches of rose floral, orange, and barnyard. On the medium-full to full-bodied, structured, slightly creamy palate it is quite approachable right now with red cherry, wild berry, forest floor, wet earth, and savoury wood spice flavours with a touch of orange. Acids are juicy and well-balanced. The structured tannins have some chalky grip, but are accessible now. Forest floor, cherry, and wild berry notes linger on the very long, savoury finish. Enjoyable now and should drink well to the end of the decade. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Many other lovely wines by Michele Chiarlo are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - Univins & Spiritueux.


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