Henkell Brut Crémant de Loire 2016 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's sparkling wine review is a delicious vintage Crémant from Loire that arrived at the LCBO as part of the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on September 9th.

It is produced by Henkell, a leading, family-owned sparkling wine producer that is based in Wiesbaden, Germany. Henkell is an international star and best seller when it comes to exporting the German sparkling wine culture as their wines are found globally in more than 100 countries.

It all began when wine lover, Adam Henkell, opened a store as a wine merchant in 1832. He later discovered the fine art of crafting traditional method sparkling wine in France and brought this knowledge back home to Germany, marrying the French art of the cuvée with the German art of cellar-mastery. Following the French example, Henkell made his first outstanding sparkling wines in 1856, marking the beginning of a unique German success story. The Henkell brand of sparkling wines was famous all over the world before the end of the 19th century thanks to Otto Henkell, Adam's grandson. Henkell was also an export pioneer and market leader before the turn of the century, and in the 1950's, after Otto Henkell II took the helm, the company played an important role in the German economic miracle. Since its inception, Henkell has used the best base wines and the perfect technical skills of both German and French cellarmasters to guarantee its inimitable flavour and consistently high quality.

This sparkling wine was launched by Henkell in the fast-growing product segment of Crémant de Loire as a tribute to its French roots. Founder Adam Henkell learned the fine art of sparkling wine production in France and also had his own winery in the French town of Reims, the home of Champagne.

It is not often we see vintage-dated Crémant, but the grapes for this bubbly were hand-harvested at the end of the 2016 growing season, and only the best juices were selected for this wine. It is crafted in the traditional method using 60% Chenin Blanc, 20% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir, and 5% Cabernet Franc. The first fermentation took place in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. It was aged on its lees for a short period of time, then underwent a second fermentation in bottle for about 3 years in natural cellars, where the temperature remains a constant 12-13°C and provides the optimal environment for secondary fermentation. Let's see how this 2016 Crémant de Loire sparkling wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

HENKELL BRUT CRÉMANT DE LOIRE 2016 - Traditional method, AP, Loire, France (#29893) (D) - $21.95
A blend of 60% Chenin Blanc, 20% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir, and 5% Cabernet Franc. The attractive, medium+ intensity nose has lemon citrus, pear, and peach aromas nuanced with brioche, autolytic, and toasty characters. It's medium-full bodied with some sweetness on the palate with honeyed flavours of ripe pear, peach, lemon citrus, plus some toasty, brioche, and hazelnut notes adding a savoury component. It has a crisp mouthfeel with a fine mousse and fresh acidity. More savoury with leesy mineral notes and hints citrus lingering on the finish, with very good length. Recommended buy. Score: 88+ pts

Other delicious sparkling wines by Henkell are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.

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Ken Forrester Sparklehorse Sparkling Chenin Blanc 2019 (South Africa) - Wine Review

Tonight's sparkling wine review is this excellent traditional method bubbly made with Chenin Blanc from South Africa. It arrived at the LCBO today in the June 10 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and is available for purchase exclusively on lcbo.com and Flagship Exclusive locations.

It is produced by Ken Forrester Vineyards, a winery that was established in 1993 by Ken Forrester and his wife Teresa after they acquired this vacant and derelict farm and homestead at a public auction. Although Ken and Teresa were new to this piece of land, the farm had a long history that can be traced back to the year 1689 and is one of the oldest farms in the Cape. The farm changed hands over the years and a German family took residence in 1833, happily growing vines for nearly 100 years. The property fell on hard times in the early 1990s and eventually found itself at the auction where Ken and Teresa were able to purchase it.

Ken Forrester Vineyards is situated on the slopes of of the Helderberg Mountain in the heart of South Africa's most famous wine region - Stellenbosch. They undertook a massive renovation both in the vineyard and the house, and produced the first wines under their own label a year later. The grapes for his wines were grown on the property, with some vines planted as far back as 1970. Soon after creating his wines, Ken Forrester was at the forefront leading the Chenin Blanc revival and his vineyards today are commonly referred to as the Home of Chenin Blanc.

Like the excellent 2019 Ken Forrester Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc that I enjoyed last July, with the 2019 vintage Ken Forrester celebrated 25 years of winegrowing and winemaking in Stellenbosch. Sustainable farming is a core value at Ken Forrester Vineyards. They farm the vineyards without the use of herbicides or pesticides. While labour intensive, they also till, prune, and thin bunches and leaves, and harvest by hand, thereby providing job opportunities and improving the quality of life of the locals and community. As such, each bottle represents change for the better in someone's life.

This dry, vintage sparkling wine is crafted in the traditional method, which is known as Methode Cap Classique in South Africa, with 100% Chenin Blanc from vines that were planted in 1975 in Helderberg, in the south of Stellenbosch. The mature, cool vineyard is irrigated and managed to control yields. As one of the top producers of Chenin Blanc with intimate knowledge of winegrowing, the vineyard is farmed in blocks for a specific wine purpose. Due to the age of the vines and old plant material, there are leafroll viruses present in the block which has an effect on the ripening phase of a vineyard. Thus, by harvesting the fruit early, specifically to create sparkling wines, the pressure on the vineyard is reduced. The grapes were handpicked and sorted to optimize quality prior to crushing. It was aged for 8 months on its lees and a further 28 months sur lattes to develop creaminess and delicate mousse while maintaining the bright fruit notes. Let's see how this 2019 vintage traditional method sparkling wine from South Africa is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

KEN FORRESTER SPARKLEHORSE SPARKLING CHENIN BLANC 2019 - Traditional method, WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#32030) (XD) - $32.95
Lovely fragrant, autolytic, and biscuit aromas with a twist of honey and citrus surround a core of apple, pear, quince, and leesy notes. It's medium-full bodied on the crisp, dry, and tangy palate with lovely citrusy, apple, pear, toasty, biscuit, leesy, and autolytic flavours. Nicely balanced with crisp, lively acidity and a fine, elegant mousse. Leesy mineral and floral notes linger on the long, crisp, lip-smacking finish, with excellent length. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

The latest vintage of the Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc is available at the LCBO, while other wines from Ken Forrester Vineyards are available through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Antech Cuvée Eugénie Brut Crémant de Limoux 2018 (Languedoc) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a lovely sparkling wine from Limoux, a region widely considered the birthplace of traditional method sparkling wine with the first bubbly's produced in the year 1544. This Limoux sparkling wine is a new arrival to the LCBO and should be in stores across the province by next weekend as part of the August 13th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Antech Limoux, a winery that was founded in the late 19th century by Zélie and Jules upon their family's long history of passion for wine. Early in the 20th century, the estate was run by Eugénie Limouzy, a dynamic, courageous, and modern woman who lived through wars unbowed to ensure the winery's long-term survival. In 1930, Eugénie's niece, Marguerite, married fellow vintner Edmond Antech. It was a match made in heaven as two winemaking families merged and gave birth to the Antech name.

In 1965, their sons Georges and Roger were inseparable as they took the reins of the estate at a very early age and in the 1970s decided to produce only sparkling wines. In 1996, the 6th generation of the family joined the estate as Georges' daughter, Françoise, arrived and carried on the family tradition to raise Antech to the ranks of the greatest sparkling wine makers.

Today, Antech (pronounced "An-tesh") is one of only 24 producers in Limoux and is by far the region's most celebrated. They are known for producing sparkling wines with purity and elegance by harnessing the three terroirs of Limoux - freshness from the Pyrenees, vinousness from the ocean, and roundness from the Mediterranean. The estate was originally planted to 120 acres of vines six generations ago, while adding another 24 acres since then. The family vineyard sits on the appellation's highest land nearly 400 metres above sea level on stony, south-facing hillsides. For over 90 years, Antech has also purchased fruit from several friends who have plots on the top of the mountain that sits north of them, grapes which are grown at high altitudes and add freshness to the wines.

Women have been the driving force at Antech for the last three generations. Today, Antech is led by winemaker Francoise Antech, one of France's more vocal and gregarious female winemakers. Antech is committed to integrated winemaking and implements the Terra Vitis approach for integrated, sustainable viticulture, a certification they obtained in 2013.

This cuvée pays homage to Eugénie Limouzy, a pioneering woman winemaker in Limoux and great aunt of Francoise Antech. Eugénie ran the Antech estate after her brother and his fiancé were killed in WWI, and lived with Francoise until she passed away at 96 years old. This Crémant de Limoux sparkling wine is crafted with 70% Chardonnay, 20% Chenin Blanc, and 10% Mauzac. Chardonnay adds body to the wine, while Chenin adds acidity and freshness, and Mauzac keeps the wine rooted in Limoux and contributes creaminess to the textured finish. All of the grapes were handpicked in the morning, cooled, and directly pressed and fermented separately in stainless steel. After lot selection, wines were blended and second fermentation occurred in bottle for 18 months in temperature controlled cellars. Let's see how this 2018 Crémant de Limoux is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ANTECH CUVÉE EUGÉNIE BRUT CRÉMANT DE LIMOUX 2018 - Traditional Method, Sustainable, AP, Languedoc, France (#25367) (XD) - $23.95
This blend of 70% Chardonnay, 20% Chenin Blanc, and 10% Mauzac has a fresh, elegant nose of medium-high intensity that offers aromas of white flowers, bread, toasty, and citrus with a sense of minerality. The soft, medium+ bodied palate has a kiss of sweetness on the flavour profile with notes of ripe peach, white flowers, citrus, honey, and toast with mineral undertones. Soft and mildly structured with fine acidity and elegant bubbles. Well-balanced, while finishing crisp, dry, and long with lovely peach, citrus, white floral, and mineral notes. Elegant bubbly and a highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Other lovely wines by Antech can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Ken Forrester Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc 2019 (South Africa) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a perennially excellent Chenin Blanc from South Africa that I've enjoyed several times over the years. While this particular vintage is sold out as it arrived at the LCBO a couple of summers ago, the latest vintage (2021) came to the LCBO last month as part of the June 18 LCBO VINTAGES Release - with plenty still available across Ontario.

Ken Forrester Vineyards is situated on the slopes of the Helderberg Mountain in the heart of South Africa's most famous wine region - Stellenbosch. It's history can be traced back to 1689 as one of the oldest farms in the Cape and changed hands over the years. In 1833, another German family took residence at the farm and happily grew vines for almost 100 years. The property fell on hard times in the early 1990s prior to the release of Nelson Mandela and the first democratic elections.

In 1993, Ken Forrester, his wife Teresa, and a young family in tow set their hearts on an historic vineyard in Stellenbosch. The farm and homestead were vacant and derelict when they bought it at a public auction in 1993 and undertook a massive renovation both in the vineyards and the house. Ken Forrester produced his first wines under his own label a year later and soon became the forefront of the Chenin Blanc revival. The grapes for his wines were grown on the property, with some of the vines planted as far back as 1970. Today, Ken Forrester's vineyards are commonly referred to as the Home of Chenin Blanc.

In 2019, Ken Forrester celebrated 25 years of wine life in Stellenbosch. With a vision for sustainable farming, Ken Forrester farms with no herbicides or pesticides. They also till, prune, and thin bunches and leaves, and harvest by hand. While labour intensive, their vision is to also improve the quality of life of their employees and the community. Beyond farming in a sustainable manner, Ken Forrester's philosophy has always been to create a range of handcrafted, individually made wines that suitably complement a wide variety of food styles and provide excellent value.

This Chenin Blanc was crafted using grapes from vines planted in 1974 on clovelly (deep yellow sand) soils. The mature, unirrigated vineyards have a south-southwest aspect with controlled yields. After hand harvesting with careful selection, the grapes were barrel and tank fermented and left on the lees (9 months in French oak with 20% new) matured on secondary lees for additional complexity.

2019 was a stellar year for Chenin Blanc in Stellenbosch with cool days and nights resulting in lovely acidity and great freshness.

Tasting Note:

KEN FORRESTER OLD VINE RESERVE CHENIN BLANC 2019 - WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#231282) (XD) - $17.95
Screw cap. Lovely, intense, and elegant nose offers leesy and paraffin aromas mingling with baked apple-pear, stone fruit, herbs, and touches of lemon citrus adding further complexities. The full-bodied palate is rich, creamy, and textured with complex layers of honey, vanilla, oak spice, baked apple-pear, white pepper, white floral, and dried herb flavours in a dry profile. Acids are fresh, zesty, and textured, while leesy mineral with touches of baked apple, dried herb, and citrus linger on the long, juicy, lip-smacking finish. Has many years of enjoyment ahead. Score: 92 pts

Other lovely wines by Ken Forrester can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Emerging California Master Class (Apr. 2022)

Last month was California Wine Month and one afternoon in April I had the pleasure of attending a virtual zoom Master Class on "Emerging California". This master class was put on by California Wines and led by leading wine critic, journalist, and educator Elaine Chukan Brown.

Winegrowing activities in California began in the mid-1800's. Since that time, California has emerged as one of the world's great wine producing regions most notable for its Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay from Napa Valley and Sonoma County. In this master class, which included 9 wine samples for us to taste along with Elaine, we learned about some of California's lesser-known wine regions, focusing mainly on areas in the Central Coast.

The wines were, for the most part, made with grape varieties one wouldn't normally associate with California - Grenache, Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, and Sauvignon Blanc were just some of the varietals we touched upon. Overall, I found the master class to be quite informative as a wealth of information was presented by Elaine. I was also very pleased with the quality of the wines. In the end, the Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon were my definitive favourites, but there were also many other lovely wines. To purchase any of these wines, please contact each wine's Agent for availability and pricing as only a very small amount of the rosé is currently available at the LCBO.

Tasting Notes:

BONNY DOON VINEYARD LE CIGARE VOLANT 2020 - Central Coast, California, USA (#18516) (XD) - $20 CAD
Primarily from Monterey, this blend of 42% Grenache, 31% Cinsault, 24% Syrah, 2% Petit Verdot, and 1% Counoise has a medium-high to highly aromatic nose that is fresh, ripe, plummy, red fruited with a subtle smokiness. It’s medium-full bodied with smooth, nicely textured tannins. Flavours are dry and nicely balanced with red fruits, currant, red cherry, and subtle wood. Fresh, balanced acids. Long, red fruited, cherry, and smoky finish. Agent: FWM Canada. Score: 90 pts

SCHUG CABERNET FRANC 2017 - Sonoma County, California, USA (XD) - $47 USD
Blend of 78% Cabernet Franc, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot. The lovely, medium-high to highly aromatic nose offers aromas of currant, cassis, red pepper, pretty florals, and herbaceous touches. It’s medium-full bodied and dry with lovely aroma replays with noted red pepper and smoky touches, along with tangy, juicy acidity. Structured and smooth with fine tannins. Red pepper, currant, and chocolate notes linger on the long, juicy finish. Agent: Lifford Wine and Spirits. Score: 91 pts

RIDGE ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019 - Monte Bello Vineyard, Santa Cruz Mountains, Central Coast, California, USA (#89284) (XD) - $112 CAD
Composed of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot, it has a lovely, highly aromatic nose featuring aromas of sweet cassis, floral, currant, red berry fruit, cherry, and sweet spices. It’s full-bodied, dry, and structured with elegant, slightly chalky tannins along with lovely aroma replays and fresh, tangy acidity lifting the palate. Red cherry, floral, and earthy with some stony mineral notes lingering on the very long, juicy finish. Agent: Rogers & Company. Score: 93 pts

CLINE ANCIENT VINES CARIGNANE 2019 - Contra Costa County, Central Coast, California, USA (#32177) (XD) - $33 CAD
From old vines, some more than 100 years old, grown in sandy soils in northwest Oakley near the San Joaquin River, the medium-high to highly aromatic nose offers lovely purple and black fruit, dark plum, and minty herbal aromas. It’s full-bodied with structured, slightly chalky tannins with lovely aroma replays on the flavour profile. Juicy acids with minty, dark berry notes, plus touches of smoke linger on the long finish. Agent: Vinexx. Score: 91 pts

OAK RIDGE MAGGIO PETITE SIRAH 2020 - Lodi, California, USA (D) - $12 USD
A blend of 90% Petite Sirah and 10% Zinfandel, the medium-high nose is very ripe, plummy, and fruit forward with dark berry and sweet oak aromas. The fleshy, full-bodied palate is juicy and fruit forward, dark berry, plum, tea leaf, and purple fruit flavours joined by subtle sweet spices and vanilla. Structured tannins have some grip. Juicy acids and ripe plum and berry notes linger on the finish, with very good length. Agent: Profile Wine Group. Score: 87 pts

DAOU DISCOVERY ROSÉ 2020 - Paso Robles, Central Coast, California, USA (#19527) (XD) - $29.95 CAD
This blend of 95% Grenache grown on limestone soils, plus 5% Sauvignon Blanc was barrel-aged on its lees. Aromas are fresh and bright with notions of grapefruit, citrus, and red berries, with herbally touches. It’s medium-bodied and dry with a pleasingly chalky textured mouthfeel to go along with very nice aroma replays on the palate, joined by touches of grassy notes. Somewhat fleshy on the mid-palate. Very good length on the slightly leesy finish. Only 10 bottles remain at LCBO, and at a big discount. Agent: Southern Glazer's Wine and Spirits of Canada. Score: 90 pts

INGLENOOK SAUVIGNON BLANC 2019 - Rutherford, Napa Valley, California, USA (#17090) (XD) - $38 USD
A blend of 76% Sauvignon Blanc and 24% Semillon that was aged for 8 months sur lie with 70% in stainless steel tanks, 19% in new French oak, and the rest in neutral French oak. The elegant, medium-high intensity nose is earthy-leesy in profile with pear, stone fruit, white peach, citrus, lemongrass, and herbs. On the medium+ bodied palate it is very textural and rich with pear, citrus, lemongrass, and white peach replays supported by juicy, balanced acidity. Citrus, pear, and subtle spices linger on the long, crisp, and tight finish. Agent: Noble Estates Wine & Spirits. Score: 91+ pts

BOGLE CHENIN BLANC 2020 - Clarksburg, California, USA (#704049) (D) - $21.95 CAD
Chenin Blanc is the most widely planted variety in the Clarksburg AVA, which has mostly alluvial soils mixed with clay and some sand. This Chenin has muted aromas of tropical fruit, honeyed, beeswax, floral, and honeysuckle. It’s medium-full bodied with appealing, off-dry aroma replays joined by spice notes. It has a viscous mouthfeel with lively acids, subtly spicy and tapering to a dry-ish, crisp finish, with very good length. Agent: Abcon Wine Merchants. Score: 88 pts

CALERA MT. HARLAN CHARDONNAY 2018 - Certified Organic Farmed Vineyards, Central Coast, California, USA (#16406) (XD) - $55 USD
Grown in limestone soils in the Gavilan Mountains at a high elevation of 2,200 feet and cooled by ocean breezes. The gorgeous, highly aromatic nose is rich and buttery with apple, pear, stone fruits, lemon citrus, and subtle smokiness aromas. It’s medium-full to full bodied with a lovely, rich, creamy mouthfeel and very nice, flavourful aroma replays, plus elegant oak spice and vanilla notes, all framed by lovely, racy acidity. Excellent length on the long, dry, leesy mineral finish. Agent: Rogers & Company. Score: 94 pts

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DGB - White Wines from South Africa

With today's mild weather, tonight's wine reviews are a trio of delicious white wines from South Africa. All three are readily available at LCBO outlets across Ontario, with one a VINTAGES Essentials product, while the other two being General List wines.

These wines are produced by DGB (Douglas Green Bellingham) - a classic company in a modern era that uses their many years of experience and a committed staff to build brands with an unrivalled passion. DGB is headquartered at their production facility in Wellington, but they also have production facilities in Franschhoek and Boschendal. Being a large producer, DGB also has their own laboratory to ensure product quality, a packaging plant, and their own cellar and storage facility.

South Africa has a rich and varied terrain and is famed for its ancient soils. As such, DGB has a dedicated Viticulturalist with extensive experience working with the diverse vineyards of the Cape Wetlands and provides a crucial link between growers and the winemakers in the cellar as they search for exceptional fruit from healthy vineyards. With passion and respect for the environment, the Viticulturalist is a great advocate for biological farming and is an important leader in DGB's sustainability projects.

DGB acquired Boschendal in 2005 and is just one of company's many brands. Boschendal - which comes from bush and dale in Dutch - is one of the oldest Wine Estates in South Africa and is located between Franschhoek and Stellenbosch in Western Cape. An iconic wine farm, Boschendal is nestled in one of the most picturesque valleys in the Cape Winelands and has a winemaking tradition that spans over 330 years.

At Boschendal, they believe that wines are made in the vineyard and seek specific terroir-driven sites best suited for their vines. They have also embraced sustainability techniques in both the vineyard and and cellar to retain the country's exceptional biodiversity. With teamwork a core value, all members of the Boschendal team share the same goal which is to craft exceptional and memorable wines, while striving for perfection and aspiring to improve.

Let's see how these delicious wines from Boschendal and The Beachhouse are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

BOSCHENDAL 1685 CHARDONNAY 2019 - WO Western Cape, South Africa (#367698) (XD) - $16.95
This 100% Chardonnay was crafted with fruit from Stellenbosch, Elgin Valley and Boschendal farm, from vineyards planted on well-drained soils. With a combination of fermentation and ageing regimens, the final blend is composed of 70% barrel fermented and matured and 30% stainless steel tank Chardonnay, all spending 10 months on its lees. Screw cap. The fragrant, medium-high intensity nose offers a ripe mix of orchard fruit, apple, pineapple, butter, and some leesy mineral aromas. It has very good weight on the dry, medium+ bodied palate with juicy acidity supporting the buttery, apple, orchard fruit, sweet vanillin oak, and herbal flavours. Nice leesy mineral texture on the mid-palate that lingers through to long, balanced finish with apple, butter, and leesy mineral flavours with a hint of caramel. Recommended buy. VINTAGES Essentials. Score: 88+ pts

BOSCHENDAL THE PAVILLION CHENIN BLANC 2020 - WO Western Cape, South Africa (#281311) (XD) - $11.95
Screw cap. Aged on fine lees to add complexity, this 100% Chenin Blanc has a medium+ intensity nose that has a touch of sulphur, but once that blows off there is lovely ripe apple, lemon citrus, white floral, grapefruit, and herbal aromas. On the mid-weighted palate it is dry with apple, citrus, and grapefruit, with some leesy mineral flavours in a nicely textured profile and crisp, balanced acidity. Citrusy, grapefruit, and minerals linger on the crisp finish, with very good length. Highly recommended buy. General List. Score: 88 pts

THE BEACHHOUSE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2020 - WO Western Cape, South Africa (#122390) (D) - $11.95
Screw cap. The 100% Sauvignon Blanc has delicate and ripe aromas of tropical fruit, guava, and passion fruit with an herbal element. It has very good weight on the slightly off-dry palate with delicious tropical fruit, lemon citrus, and saline flavours. It has well-balanced acidity, while the lingering finish has tropical fruit, citrus and saline notes. Crowd pleaser. General List. Score: 87 pts

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Donatien Bahuaud Les Grands Mortiers Vouvray 2019 (Loire) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a delicious off-dry Vouvray from Loire that returned to LCBO VINTAGES a couple of weeks ago as part of the October 2nd LCBO VINTAGES Release, with plenty of bottles still available for purchase across Ontario.

Donatien Bahuaud was born in the region of Nantes and came from a family of clog makers, coopers and vine-growers. As a young boy, he wandered through the local vineyards and enjoyed watching barrel-laden boats travel up the Loire River, and eventually decided to become a winemaker. In 1929, he founded Maison Donatien Bahuaud and travelled throughout the vineyard with his wines in oak vats loaded on a cart. With careful cultivation of the vineyard and observation of the region's terroirs, Donatien was able to craft exceptional wines with subtle and refined flavours. He contributed to the recognition of Muscadet up until the creation of the AOC in 1936 and was recognized as a master in the art of wine maturing by his peers.

According to the values of Donatien Bahuaud - winemaking on its own is not enough to create unique wines. The aromas of each wine evolve naturally over time thanks to the mastering of the three types of ageing in vat, oak, and bottle. The maturing of a wine is a crucial and natural procedure that allows the wine's aromas to evolve and complete its tasting structure. Donatien Bahuaud's journey leaves behind a remarkable legacy to the brand, marked by values of excellence and quality.

This white wine is from their "Expression de Loire" range of wines - a collection of Appellation specific wines that reflect the richness and diversity of terroirs of the Loire Valley. The wines in this range are crafted to be expressive and highly typical of the appellation, while also expressing the winemaker's talent.

The grapes for this Vouvray were carefully selected and harvested from vineyards planted on limestone and chalky soils - a combination of exceptional terroir and temperate climate from the Loire which helps produce diverse styles of Chenin Blanc ranging from dry to sweet, and also sparkling wines. This Vouvray is crafted to be medium-dry in sweetness (i.e. subtly sweet) with some mineral notes. Let's see how this Vouvray from Loire is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DONATIEN BAHUAUD LES GRANDS MORTIERS VOUVRAY 2019 - AP, Loire, France (#140889) (M) - $21.95
100% Chenin Blanc, the delicate nose has honeyed aromas of elderflower and pear with a hint of minerality. The crunchy, off-dry (i.e. slightly sweet) palate has good weight and a spicy flavour profile with pear, apple, and honey notes with some citrus and minerals on the back palate. Acids are pleasantly fresh and bright, while leesy mineral notes linger on the dry finish, with very good length. Recommended buy. Score: 88+ pts

Other delicious wines from Donatien Bahuaud can be ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Catena Appellation Series White Clay 2019 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a lovely white wine composed of Semillón and Chenin Blanc - two grape varietals uncommonly blended together, from a country not really known for growing these varietals. It is a new arrival from Argentina, landing on LCBO shelves across Ontario last weekend as part of the August 21st LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Bodega Catena Zapata was founded by Nicola Catena when he planted his first vines in Mendoza in 1902. Today, the Catena family is recognized for its pioneering role in high-altitude viticulture in Argentina led by the 4th generation of the Catena family - Dr. Laura Catena, and Winemaker Alejandro Vigil. This particular wine is from their Appellation "Village" range of wines that expresses the diversity of terroir and the historic farming customs of the local families. I've tasted a number of Catena Appellation wines, including most recently the 2019 Catena Appellation Tupungato Chardonnay, and they have all been lovely.

Semillón was first established in Argentina in the late 19th century and was among the most widely planted varietals. Since Semillón has been in sharp decline since the 1960s, today it is the 10th most widely planted white wine varietal. With just over 600 hectares of Semillón planted, it represents only 1.8% of the total surface area of all white wine varietals. 85% of Semillón plantings can be found in Mendoza, while the 5.6% is planted in Río Negro (Patagonia). In Mendoza, most of the plantings are in Tupungato, followed closely by Luján de Cuyo, where this Semillón is from. In Cuyo, Semillón acquires aromatic tones of white fruits and honey and evolves well in the bottle to form additional complexities.

Chenin Blanc is the 6th most widely planted white wine varietal in Argentina with approximately 1,700 hectares planted. Just like Semillón, unfortunately, plantings of Chenin also declined, with current levels half of what used to exist in 2002. Today, Chenin Blanc represents less than 5% of white wine varietal plantings in the country. However, Chenin Blanc has adapted well to Argentine terroirs, bringing freshness and structure to white blends with aromas of white peach.

Even though plantings of both Semillón and Chenin Blanc have declined, there is a renewed interest among winemakers in Argentina to rediscover these classic varieties. This white wine blend by Catena is a perfect example. It is a fairly new addition to the Catena portfolio as the 2019 appears to be only 2nd vintage of this wine, and it consists of 60% Semillón and 40% Chenin Blanc. The grapes were grown in Luján de Cuyo at an altitude of 950 metres (3,117 feet) on soils of alluvial origin with clay topsoil and rounded rocks on the bottom. Soil distribution is 30% clay, 40% silt, and 30% sand.

Tasting Note:

CATENA APPELLATION SERIES WHITE CLAY 2019 - Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina (#19392) (XD) - $19.95
This lovely blend of 60% Semillón and 40% Chenin Blanc spent 6 months in contact with lees has a medium to medium-high intensity nose that offers a pleasing mix of grapefruit, white floral, lemon peel, and leesy mineral aromas. The medium+ bodied palate is dry, fleshy and concentrated with lovely floral, lemon peel, grapefruit replays, plus some herbs and thyme flavours adding complexity and interest. It has balanced acidity, with flavours of apple and pear appearing on the mid-palate and continuing through to the long finish, where it is joined by leesy mineral notes. Recommended buy. Score: 89 pts

You can find other lovely wines by Catena at the LCBO, as well as through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Wine Picks LCBO VINTAGES Release June 22, 2019: Australia + Loire vs. New World

The upcoming LCBO VINTAGES Release June 22, 2019 features wines from Australia in the main theme, while the mini-theme compares and contrasts wines from Loire and the New World. All of these wines, plus those from the main Release will be on VINTAGES shelves across Ontario by this Saturday.

We'll begin with the main theme that looks at the wide array of grape varieties (and wine styles) that are thriving in Australia. In all, there are seven grapes/styles, encompassing thirteen wines, of which five wines are included among my top wine picks from Australia. We all know about Australian Shiraz - two of which are included among my wine picks - but Australia also makes some fabulous Chardonnay, as well as off-dry Riesling wines. After Shiraz, the second most popular red grape varietal grown in Australia is Cabernet Sauvignon, with many fine examples to be found in Coonawarra.

The mini-theme compares the wines from Loire and their New World counterparts. The comparison looks at Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Cabernet Franc in Loire and their New World examples. Of the six wines featured, three are included among my wine recommendations, and all three are lovely. First up are a pair of Sauvignon Blanc wines - one from Sancerre (Loire) and the other from New Zealand. Lastly, there is an excellent Chenin Blanc from South Africa.

From the rest of the release, my red wine picks include a 2015 Bordeaux red that consists of 80% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Malbec, and 1% Petit Verdot. Also from France, there is a lovely Châteauneuf-du-Pape that is made with 30% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah, 10% Counoise, and 5% Cinsault. From Italy, the wine from Puglia is made with the indigenous Nero di Troia, while the Barbaresco is made with 100% Nebbiolo.

Among my white wine picks, all are single varietal wines made from fairly common grape varietals. The lone wine that you may have not heard of is made with the Jacquère grape from Savoie. If you are looking for sweeter wines, the Gewurztraminer is off-dry (i.e. slightly sweet), while the Ontario Riesling is semi-dry (i.e. fairly sweet).

The rosé wines are all blends. The rosé from Midi is a 50/50 blend of Grenache and Syrah, while the rosé from Provence is a 50/50 blend of Grenache and Cinsault. And finally, the rosé from Ontario is a blend of 97% Pinot Noir and 3% Viognier.

Enjoy my wine recommendations from this Release! Cheers!

Red Wine:

• BIBLIOTHEQUE TRAVEL WRITING SHIRAZ 2015 - McLaren Vale, South Australia (#668608) (XD) - $16.95  88 pts  wine review
• CHÂTEAU DU VIEUX PUIT 2015 - AC Côtes de Bordeaux - Blaye, France (#630012) (XD) - $17.95  88 pts  wine review
• MICHEL GASSIER LES PILIERS SYRAH 2016 - AC Costières de Nîmes, Rhône, France (#678086) (XD) - $17.95
• SECRETO PATAGÓNICO MALBEC 2017 - Patagonia, Argentina (#635961) (XD) - $19.95  89 pts  wine review
• PENLEY ESTATE PHOENIX CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016 - Coonawarra, South Australia (#639575) (XD) - $19.95  89 pts  wine review
• TORREVENTO CASTEL DEL MONTE VIGNA PEDALE RISERVA 2014 - DOCG, Puglia, Italy (#208256) (D) - $19.95  89 pts
• CAPE BARREN NATIVE GOOSE SHIRAZ 2016 - McLaren Vale, South Australia (#668590) (XD) - $22.95  90 pts  wine review
• ENRICO SERAFINO BARBARESCO 2015 - DOCG, Piedmont, Italy (#157347) (XD) - $29.95  90 pts  wine review
• CHÂTEAU DE BEAUCASTEL CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2016 - AC, Rhône, France (#711317) (XD) - $93.95

White Wine:

• DOMAINE DE L’IDYLLE JACQUÈRE SAVOIE 2017 - AC, Savoie, France (#645333) (XD) - $16.95  89 pts  wine review
• KEN FORRESTER OLD VINE RESERVE CHENIN BLANC 2017 - WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#231282) (XD) - $17.95  90+ pts  wine review
• PIERRE SPARR GRANDE RÉSERVE GEWURZTRAMINER 2017 - AC Alsace, France (#747600) (D) - $18.95
• TIEFENBRUNNER PINOT GRIGIO 2018 - IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti, Alto Adige, Italy (#474742) (XD) - $19.95
• BEST’S GREAT WESTERN RIESLING 2017 - Great Western, Victoria, Australia (#688259) (D) - $19.95  90 pts  wine review
• CASTELLO DELLA SALA BRAMÌTO CHARDONNAY 2017 - IGT Umbria, Italy (#176792) (XD) - $22.95
• SAINT CLAIR PIONEER BLOCK 20 CASH BLOCK SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017 - Single Vineyard, Dillons Point, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#483065) (XD) - $28.95  90 pts  wine review
• OAKRIDGE VINEYARD SERIES HENK CHARDONNAY 2017 - Henk Vineyard, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia (#688242) (XD) - $29.95  91 pts  wine review
• JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE LES CAILLOTTES SANCERRE 2017 - AC, Loire, France (#65573) (XD) - $30.95  91 pts  wine review
• CHARLES BAKER PICONE VINEYARD RIESLING 2016 - VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#241182) (M) - $37.20

Rosé Wine:

• TYPIC CINSAULT/SYRAH ROSÉ 2018 - IGP Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, France (#668699) (XD) - $13.95  88 pts  wine review
• L’OSTAL ROSÉ 2018 - IGP Pays d’Oc, Midi, France (#450809) (XD) - $15.95  88 pts  wine review
• HIDDEN BENCH LOCUST LANE ROSÉ 2018 - VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#68833) (XD) - $23.95
• LÉOUBE LOVE ROSÉ 2018 - AP Côtes de Provence, France (#575282) (XD) - $24.95

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Avondale Wine Tasting (South Africa)

Last month, I had the pleasure of tasting the wines of Avondale with proprietor Johnathan Grieve.

Avondale is located on a 160-hectare, picturesque farm in the Paarl valley in the southwestern part of South Africa, only 35 minutes from Cape Town, and has been cultivated for more than 300 years. Early records also indicate that this piece of land was one first in Paarl valley to be allocated specifically for the production of grapes.

Although the farm was established as early as 1693, current owners John and Ginny Grieve (Johnathan's parents) only began producing wine on the site in 1999, two years after purchasing the land. Today, it continues to be family-owned and operated with Johnathan taking up the challenge to transform the land into a balanced vineyard ecosystem using organic and biodynamic viticultural practices that he developed, along with modern science, and now terms BioLOGIC.

One of the ways Avondale promotes a balanced ecosystem is through the use of natural predators. Beginning more than 15 years ago, Avondale began unleashing White Pekin Ducks to feast on snails that were proliferating throughout the vineyards and eating the vines. Johnathan showed us a fascinating video of the ducks in action that you can view here:

Other natural predators include predatory wasps (to combat mealy bugs), Spotted Eagle Owls, Rock Kestrels, Yellow-billed and Black-shouldered Kites.

Continuing on the theme of "natural" is the waste water system that mimics the way Nature cleans water. The system is comprised of three dams interlinked by spiralling channels of cleansing reeds that replicates the natural river system. This closed-nutrient cycle yields quality water that is then used for their irrigation needs.

Avondale has 13 different soil types on their land, and vines are planted within pockets of soil types. Furthermore, when Avondale built their cellar, it was designed such that each block of fruit from these different soil types could be vinified independently of each other, allowing for terroir expression. The soil is often re-balanced using the soil balancing system pioneered by Dr. William Albrecht, followed by re-mineralization of the soil. To further help balance the soil and ecosystem, legumes and other cover crops are used to create a vibrant and diverse plant community.

All of the wines at Avondale go through natural fermentation - a process which is much slower than commercial fermentation. Some wines are also warm-fermented at this estate, producing wines that can be aged for longer periods when compared with wines that are cool-fermented.

One thing Johnathan talked about that really intrigued me was the Luna Tasting Calendar. This calendar is based on the Biodynamic Planting Calendar that was developed in the 1950's by Maria Thun and centres around the 12 Zodiac constellations and the lunar cycle. Within the calendar there are four cycles: Fruit, Root, Flower and Leaf. The Luna Tasting Calendar conjectures that any given wine will taste different based on the current cycle. The Flower cycle is regarded as the best day for tasting wine. I personally have not tried tasting wine based on this, but it's on my list of things to do this year.

The dowsing experiment using rods that Johnathan performed on one of the attendees was also very interesting. I have a pair of dowsing rods that I haven't used in quite a few years, so it was refreshing to see somebody else perform dowsing, and do it well!

Overall, I was quite pleased with the tasting. It was an eye-opener in terms of the many organic and biodynamic practices that are followed. The labels are also very pretty - with a unique story behind each of them. However, it's what's inside the bottle that counts - and the wines are delicious.

Thank you Rare Earth Wines for the invitation and the opportunity to taste these fabulous wines that also happen to be organic & biodynamic. Since most of these wines are not (yet) available at the LCBO, you can order these wines directly with Rare Earth Wines.

Tasting Notes:

AVONDALE ARMILLA BLANC DE BLANC 2009 - WO Paarl, South Africa (#) (XD) - $28
100% Chardonnay. Medium-high aromatics with toast, bread, poached pear and citrus notes. The palate has vibrant mousse and show hints of sweetness that are cut very quickly by the vibrant acids. Medium-long finish. Score: 88 pts

AVONDALE JONTY'S DUCKS PEKIN WHITE 2013 - WO Paarl, South Africa (#) (XD) - $14.95
Primarily Chenin Blanc (85%) with Roussanne, Muscat de Frontignan, Viognier and Semillon rounding out the blend. Aromas of medium-to-high intensity consisting of sweet ripe peach, citrus and lemon notes. On the palate, it's medium-bodied and fleshy with flavours of lemon/lime, citrus, tangy peach and hints of honey. Some chalky minerality mid-palate. Balanced acids and medium-length finish. Score: 87 pts

AVONDALE ANIMA 2013 - WO Paarl, South Africa (#) (D) - $22.95
100% Chenin Blanc. Elegant, medium+ intensity aromas of honeyed fruit, white peach and tropical fruit. Palate is medium-bodied with very nice aroma replays showing nice complexity. It's off-dry with good tension between fruit and vibrant, yet balanced, acidity. Long finishing. Score: 89 pts

AVONDALE CYCLUS 2012 - WO Paarl, South Africa (#295220) (XD) - $26.95
White wine blend consisting of equal parts Viognier, Chardonnay, Roussanne & Chenin Blanc, and a small amount of Semillon. Medium-high aromatics that are elegant with notions of apples, orchard fruit, floral and fennel. The palate is medium-bodied, dry, and slightly oily with a chalky mineral texture and fresh, vibrant acids. Layered flavours of herb, lemon and floral continue through to the very long finish. Score: 90+ pts

AVONDALE JONTY'S DUCKS PEKIN RED 2011 - WO Paarl, South Africa (#383547) (XD) - $14.95
Blend of 37% Shiraz, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot and 4% Malbec. Medium+ aromatic intensity with complex herbal, wild dark/red berry fruit, currant, cassis and elegant oak aromas. On the palate, it is medium-bodied with ripe, supple tannins and flavours of red/black fruits, black cherry, black currant, vanilla and chocolate. Good, balanced acids and a medium-long finish. Currently in VINTAGES. Score: 88+ pts

AVONDALE SAMSARA 2009 - WO Paarl, South Africa (#295550) (XD) - $32.95
100% Syrah. Medium+ intensity aromas of red cherry, berry, white pepper, dark plum, and soft vanillan oak. Flavours of spiced oak, plum, white pepper and currants on the medium+ bodied palate. It has brilliant acidity and firm, chalky tannins. Hints of chocolate on the spiced finish. Will age gracefully for 5-8 years. Score: 90 pts

AVONDALE LA LUNA 2009 - WO Paarl, South Africa (#) (XD) - $34.95
A Bordeaux-blend consisting of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec, this red wine has medium+ intensity aromas with suggestions of elegant plum, red & dark fruits, floral, cedar oak and some purple fruits. It's full-bodied with refined tannins and very nice aroma replays. It also has very good acids and a long, smooth finish. Score: 91 pts

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Sula Vineyards & Fratelli Indian (Nashik) Wine Reviews

On my recent trip to India, I had plans to visit India's Wine Capital - Nashik. Located in the state of Maharashtra, less than 200 km northeast of Mumbai - about 2.5 hours by car - an overnight trip to the region was in the cards. Unfortunately, those plans had to be cancelled.

Getting tired of drinking India's most popular alcoholic beverage - Whisky - I ended up purchasing a bottle of Sula's Chenin Blanc from an outlet within a local grocery store in Mumbai. Knowing how much I loved wine, my Uncle also purchased two other Indian wines from a liquor store nearby in Dadar East.

This was my first time tasting Indian wines. All of the wines below are on the low-end of the price scale, and it shows. Here are wine reviews of three Indian wines I tasted while in India, with the Chenin Blanc and the Shiraz blend relatively quite enjoyable.


SULA VINEYARDS CHENIN BLANC 2014 - Nashik, India (#) (M) - Rs. 550 ($11 CAD)
Screw cap. Elegant aromas of medium intensity with sweet notes of pineapple, honey, elderflower and lime citrus notes. Palate is medium bodied and medium-dry sweet (i.e. medium sweet) with lemon/lime, floral, honeysuckle flavours. Lacking a bit of acidity with a medium+ length finish that tapers off into the dry zone with a slight bitterness. Tasted February 24, 2015. Score: 86 pts

SULA VINEYARDS SATORI MERLOT MALBEC - Nashik, India (D) - Rs. 520 ($10.40 CAD)
Manufactured July 2013, so I assume 2013 vintage. Screw cap. Medium intensity nose with grapey, dried red fruit, raisin, black cherry, sweet ripe red fruit aromas. Integrated, rounded tannins, Palate is sweetish with black fruit, dried fruit, raisiny flavours. Balanced acids, while tannins are rounded and integrated well. Average length finish, Easy drinking wine for those that prefer sweeter red wines. Personally, I didn't feel any "Satori" or sudden enlightenment. Tasted February 28, 2015. Score: 83 pts

FRATELLI CLASSIC SHIRAZ - Nashik, India (XD) - Rs 485 ($9.70 CAD)
Manufactured March 2014, so I assume 2014 vintage. An unspecified Shiraz blend (2013 vintage was 80/20 Shiraz/Cab Franc.) Screw cap. Medium+ intensity aromas featuring black pepper, plum and milk chocolate aromas, along with hints of raisin. Medium bodied, sweet ripe fruits, red & blue fruits, and subtle oak spice, milk chocolate flavours. Tannins are refined and smooth, while acids are balanced. Medium length finish that is smooth, yet a touch hot with slightly bitter chocolate and dried fruit notes. Quaffable and easy drinking. Tasted February 25, 2015. Score: 86 pts

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