St. Stephen Oda al Vino Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2017 and Am Malbec Reserva 2016 (Chile) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of nice organic red wines by St. Stephen Organic Vineyards from Chile. Both are currently only available via their Agent - Don Ackerman's Wines & Spirits, and may potentially appear in LCBO VINTAGES some time next year.

St. Stephen Organic Vineyards is a family-owned and -operated winery located in the Colchagua Valley at the base of the Andes Mountains. The primary focus is on creating flavourful wines that begin with the sun, soil, temperature, and water. There is little-to-no rainfall during the fruit-bearing months, and because they are situated at the base of the Andes, this provides a plentiful supply of pure snowmelt water. The rich, volcanic soils located in this area are particularly well-suited for winegrowing, especially Cabernets.

The grapes are grown 100% organically using sustainable agricultural methods, and without the use of any preservatives, pesticides, fungicides, herbicides, or other toxicant. All of the grapes at St. Stephen are grown and harvested by hand to reduce bruising and preserve the sugar and flavours of the grapes, followed by rigorous sorting and quality control through to the use of the finest quality French oak barrels to ensure that the final wine is of high quality.

The winemaking process is artisanal, deliberate and flexible. With no two vintages ever the same, the winemaking team is constantly evaluating and adapting to ensure they are able craft the best possible quality of wine. The goal is to create delicious, consistent, unique, and memorable wines.

With a strong commitment to organic agriculture, sustainability, and the general welfare of the planet, a portion of the proceeds from each bottle of St. Stephen wine purchased benefits environmental organizations committed to protecting our planet, expanding national parks and wildlife refuges, reducing pollution, defending our oceans, moving beyond fossil fuels, reducing plastic consumption, and slowing climate change. In recognition of their efforts, St. Stephen Organic Vineyards was invited to address the United Nations Climate Change Division's Annual Conference (COP25) in Madrid in December 2019, joining other speakers such as Speaker of the House Nancy Pelosi and Environmental Activist Greta Thunberg.

Tasting Notes:

ST. STEPHEN ODA AL VINO CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVA 2017 - Colchagua Valley, Chile (XD) - $30.80
100% Cabernet Sauvignon from dark, rich, volcanic soils that are composed of red granite, andesite,
basalt, and rhyolite. An Ode to Wine, the medium+ intensity nose offers red berry, raspberry, currant, and strawberry aromas with wood spice notes that nicely accent the fruit. It's medium-full bodied on the palate with slightly tart red fruit flavours joined by savoury oak, cocoa notes. It has fresh acidity, while the dry tannins are quite grippy and chalky. Savoury, earthy, and cocoa flavours with a touch of smoke linger on the long, dry finish. Score: 89 pts

ST. STEPHEN AM MALBEC RESERVA 2016 - Curicó Valley, Chile (XD) - $29.10
"Am" means "soul" or "spirit" in the Mapuche language. 100% Malbec grown on dark, rich, volcanic soils. The nose is quite intense with bretty, barnyard, and savoury tones with some dark berry notes adding some fruit characters. It's medium-bodied on the palate with dark berry, boysenberry, and raspberry flavours surrounded by savoury, earthy notes. Acids are fresh and well-balanced while the soft, rounded tannins have a slight textural grip. There's some warmth on the mid-palate. while savoury-earthy tones continue through to the finish, with very good length. Score: 88 pts

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Catena Zapata Nicolás Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec 2016 (Argentina) - Wine Review

To follow up on the lovely 2017 Catena Cabernet Sauvignon that I enjoyed last month, tonight's wine review is an excellent blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec by Bodega Catena Zapata that arrived at the LCBO as part of the VINTAGES Classics Collection back in September - with a few bottles still available for purchase at LCBO outlets in Toronto.

The family winery was founded in 1902 by Italian immigrant Nicola Catena when he planted his first Malbec in Mendoza, Argentina. The winery was then passed along to his son, Domingo. It was Domingo's son, Nicolás Catena Zapata, that revolutionized Argentine winemaking. Nicolás was literally born in the vineyard at his family home in Rivadavia in eastern Mendoza in 1939 as his mother never made it to the hospital. Nicolás began planting at higher elevations, looking for cooler temperatures, and planted the Adrianna Vineyard in the Andean foothills. He was instrumental in putting high-altitude Malbec from Mendoza on the world map.

Today, Nicolás' daughter, Dr. Laura Catena, the fourth generation of the family, runs the winery. To further elevate Mendoza as a world-class wine region, she established the Catena Institute of Wine in 1995 to focus on the study of terroir, sustainability, and other research. The wines of Catena Zapata come from six historic family estate vineyards and each of these vineyards is divided into parcels according to their soil composition, with each parcel farmed individually. Nearly all of Catena's vineyards are farmed sustainably and organically, focusing on lower yields and biodiversity.

Catena Zapata has a number of icon wines in their portfolio, but at the top of the list is this profound Nicolás Catena Zapata. It was first crafted in the 1997 vintage using the best grapes from the family's historic vineyards and set a new standard of quality for wines not only from Argentina, but all of South America.

Although Catena Zapata played an important role in elevating Argentine Malbec on the world stage, Cabernet Sauvignon has also been an important part of the Catena portfolio. The 2016 vintage of this iconic wine is a blend of primarily Cabernet Sauvignon (61%), plus Malbec (31%) and Cabernet Franc (8%) in support. The Cabernet Sauvignon comes from the La Pirámide Vineyard at 3,117 ft. (950 m) within Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo, that has deep alluvial loam soils with 30% clay that decreases soil temperatures by 2ºC. A large portion of the Malbec comes from the Adrianna Vineyard at 4,757 ft. (1,450 m) elevation, in Gualtallary, Tupungato, Uco Valley, and has alluvial, gravelly soils with limestone deposits in the topsoil. Lastly, the Cabernet Franc, as well as some of the Malbec come from the Nicasia Vineyard at 3,593 ft. (1,095 m) in Altamira and La Consulta, Uco Valley, where the very shallow loamy topsoil with surface gravel and gravelly (large stones) dry river bed subsoils have optimal drainage characteristics.

The 2016 harvest was characterised by the cool-climate (the coolest vintage in the last thirty years), vineyards there were mostly dry farmed, and a fully snow-covered Andes throughout the summer growing season. Of particular note, the La Pirámide Vineyard - which makes up the majority of this wine - experienced an excellent vintage in part due to it being completely dry farmed because of the year's increased rain pattern, while the clay soils added a level of freshness. Crafted under the tutelage of Wine Director Alejandro Vigil, the winemaker for this wine is Fernando Buscema. Let's see how this iconic wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CATENA ZAPATA NICOLÁS CABERNET SAUVIGNON/MALBEC 2016 - Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina (#510958) (XD) - $123.00
Blend of 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Malbec, and 8% Cabernet Franc that was fermented using wild yeasts and aged in French oak barrels for 18 months. Elegant, refined, and fresh aromas of red and black fruits, currant, cassis, blackberry, and earth with a whiff of herb wafting out of the glass. It is full-bodied with lovely replays of currant, cassis, and herb, plus cocoa, earth, oak spice, and touches of graphite on the refined palate. Fresh acidity is well-balanced, while the structured tannins are smooth and fine-grained with some grip. Savoury oak notes come through on the very long, mouth-watering finish. Enjoyable now, but still a bit young. Should improve in 2-3 years and drink well into the early 2030s. Exceptional! Score: 95 pts

Other fine wines from Catena Zapata can be found at the LCBO or ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wine & Spirts.

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Toro Bravo Sparkling Secco White (Spain) - Wine Review

For tonight's wine review, I have this accessibly-priced, easy drinking, and vegan-friendly sparkling wine from Spain that is a recent arrival to the LCBO and widely available across Ontario.

The Toro Bravo brand was born a few years from a collaboration between Alex Patinios of Dionysus Wines & Spirits Ltd. (Ontario Agent) and Melanie Nathou, a négociant who owns Wines & Company S.L.U. in Valencia, Spain. After recognizing that very few new value-based wines were coming into Ontario, Alex approached Melanie and together they came up with Toro Bravo.

Today, there are a number of wines bearing the Toro Bravo label. This particular sparkling wine is crafted in the Charmat method using 50% Macabeo, 30% Parellada, and 20% Xarel-lo, with the majority of the grapes coming from vineyards located between 350 to 600 meters above sea level in rocky areas of the Cataluña region. It is crafted in a very approachable style with some sweetness that will appeal to many. I found it very interesting that this sparkling wine is enclosed by easy-to-open and re-sealable screw cap. The cap was specially designed to withstand the pressures of sparkling wine. I've been tasting it over the last few days and the bubbles and flavours are still quite fresh and persistent.

Tasting Note:

TORO BRAVO SPARKLING SECCO WHITE - Spain (#16191) (D) - $11.95
This sparkling wine is made in the Charmat method using a blend of 50% Macabeo, 30% Parellada, and 20% Xarel-lo, and enclosed by screw cap. Sweet citrus, floral, peach, and pear aromas rise out of the glass. On the medium-bodied, creamy palate it has frothy mousse and fine bubbles with pleasantly off-dry (i.e. slightly sweet) aroma replays on the flavour profile that linger through to the finish, with decent length. Casual, uncomplicated bubbly to enjoy as an aperitif or in a sparkling wine cocktail. Score: 85 pts

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La Posta Pizzella Family Malbec 2018 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is this Malbec by La Posta Vineyads, the entry-level brand of Bodega Catena. This red wine is a frequent visitor to LCBO VINTAGES due to its popularity and last arrived at the LCBO in June - with only approximately 10 bottles still remaining on shelves in Ontario.

In 2000, Laura Catena discovered a handful of growers whose results in the vineyards with specific varietals was impressive year-in and year-out. Her first encounter with many of these growers was at a posta del viñatero, or "tavern of the grape grower". They drank wine and spoke passionately for hours about their soils, vines, and quest for superior flavours in their grapes. The wines of La Posta salute these hard-working growers, with each bottle a vineyard-designate wine solely made using their own grapes. Each La Posta label illustrates a story of these individual families and are inspired by Art Nouveau and Art Déco designs of the 1920s and 1930s.

This particular Malbec is grown by the Pizzella Family - two teachers who came from Buenos Aires to Mendoza in 2000 and achieved early success by growing cool-climate Malbec grapes. The soils of their vineyard consist of sandy loam, sand, silt, and clay with 20% stones covered by limestone. Along with their three children, they meticulously work their 10-hectare vineyard together with the goal of uniformity and balance.
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Tasting Note:

LA POSTA PIZZELLA FAMILY MALBEC 2018 - La Consulta, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina (#166298) (XD) - $16.95
100% Malbec from 20-year-old vines grown at 3,600 feet (1,100 metres) above sea level. 10% of this wine was aged in new French barrels for 10 months, while 30% in 2nd use French barrels. The soft nose is ripe and plummy with blackberry, mulberry, and peppery spice notes along with a streak of stony mineral. It's soft and rounded on the medium-full bodied palate with oak-influenced flavours of dark berry and earth with a touch of sweetness. Acids are well-balanced while light tannins are well-integrated with a mild grip. Savoury and earthy notes linger on the finish, with good length. A casual, entry-level Malbec that has wide appeal. Score: 87 pts

Other wines from La Posta can be found at the LCBO or ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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13th Street Cuvée Rosé Brut (Niagara) - Wine Review (Dec. 2020)

For tonight's wine review, I opened this lovely Rosé Brut Sparkling Wine from Niagara. It is part of the VINTAGES Essentials collection at the LCBO - which means it is always available in the VINTAGES section, and is currently on promotion at $5 off until January 3rd, 2021. It is also available at the winery for the same price with a home delivery option.

This dry sparkling wine is produced by Niagara's 13th Street Winery. Founded in 1998 in St. Catharines, Ontario, and purchased by the Mann and Whitty families in 2008, 13th Street has grown to develop a reputation for crafting a wide range of quality sparkling wines from Niagara. One of the most talented French-trained winemakers, Jean-Pierre Colas joined the team in 2009 and has been instrumental in the rise of quality wines at 13th Street, which starts by using the best grapes from some of Niagara's best vineyards.

I last enjoyed 13th Street Cuvée Rosé Brut back in December 2019 and am delighted to see how the latest incarnation of this sparkling wine is tasting. This bottling is a blend of 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay - which is significantly more Pinot Noir than Chardonnay when compared to last December's bottle - with 70% of the fruit comes from the 2014 vintage. Pinot Noir provides fruit, power, and richness to the wine, while the Chardonnay adds structure and backbone. It underwent secondary fermentation in the final bottle and was aged sur lattes (en tirage / on yeasts) for a minimum of 18 months during which the bubbles became smaller and more compact, and the wine became slightly autolytic in character. A dosage of 8 grams of sugar was mixed with reserve Pinot Noir and added to the wine, then aged for another 3 months to allow the wine to integrate prior to release.

Tasting Note:

13TH STREET CUVÉE ROSÉ BRUT - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#147504) (XD) - $29.95 $24.95 until Jan. 3.
Made in the traditional method using 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay, this has lovely, fresh brioche and autolytic aromas off the top, with medium+ intensity, layered over bright red berries - strawberry, cherry, and raspberry - and some citrusy notes. It is medium+ bodied on the creamy, dry palate with fine mousse and flavours of autolytic, red berry, and citrus with honeyed accents. It has tart, bracing acidity, while mineral notes linger on the finish, with very good length. Score: 90 pts

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Château Prieuré-Lichine 2016 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is this lovely Margaux from the Left Bank of Bordeaux that newly arrived at the LCBO today as part of the December 12th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

A jewel of the Margaux appellation, this red wine is produced by Château Prieuré-Lichine and expresses the very essence of a world-famous terroir. The Priory (or monastery) of Cantenac was founded during the Roman era by the monks of the Abbey of Vertheuil, and its local wines enjoyed a fine reputation from the very beginning. In the 13th century, with the support of Bordeaux's Pope Clément V, the church vineyards flourished. The first mention of Prieuré growth dates to the year 1444.

With great international interest in the wines of Médoc, vines were completely taking over lands, and in 1745, the Bordeaux Intendance (Royal Administration) classified the wines of Prieuré in the category of third growths within the parishes of Margaux and Cantenac. By 1855, Prieuré was promoted to the 4th Classified Growth in the 1855 Imperial Classification. A century later, the vineyard had shrunk to just one hectare due to various factors such as powdery and downy mildew, phylloxera, and the Great Depression.

In 1951, Alexis Lichine, the Pope of Wine, purchased the estate and renamed it to Château Prieuré-Lichine. Alexis was a renowned winemaker and tireless champion of the wines of Bordeaux, heralding the renaissance of this Margaux estate. In 1999, after half a century of close ties with the Lichine family, the Château was acquired by Ballande group with sights firmly looking forward into the new millenium.

The vineyard was extended by 10 hectares in 2012 with plots located in the commune of Arsac. After soil studies were conducted, the technical team was able to match the rootstock with the grape varietal to exploit the full potential of the terroir. The result is that the grape composition was identical to the blend of the First Wine of Château Prieuré-Lichine. In 2013, the vat room was completely renovated and modernized, including the use of gravity-flow. Château Prieuré-Lichine also has a commitment to environment, joining the High Environmental Value (HVE) system.

This particular red wine, from the great 2016 Bordeaux vintage, is a blend of predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with a splash of Petit Verdot, that was grown on terraces of Günz-era Garonne gravelly soils that are mostly fast-draining, The grapes were hand-harvested in small crates, sorted on vibrating sorting tables using manual sorting and optical sorting machine. The grapes were not crushed and used gravity-flow to move the juice around the winery, followed by ageing in 50% new and 50% second use French oak barrels.

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU PRIEURÉ-LICHINE 2016 - 4e cru classé, AC Margaux, Bordeaux, France (#17487) (XD) - $113.95
A blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot, this has rich, complex, dark and red fruited, brooding aromas of spice, currant, and cassis mixed with savoury, earthy, oak, and touches of sweet tobacco and herb. It's medium-full bodied on the elegantly spiced palate, slightly warm, with lovely currant, cassis, tobacco, and earthy notes on the flavour profile. It has very good acidity and structured, fine-grained tannins that are quite integrated with a pleasant grippiness. Savoury, earthy tones with touches of graphite linger on the finish, with excellent length. Enjoy this beauty now to 2040. Score: 93 pts

Other lovely wines from the Château Prieuré-Lichine portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Castelo do Mar Albariño 2018 (Spain) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is this lovely Albariño from Spain that came to VINTAGES last Fall and returns to our shores as part of the December 12th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Castelo do Mar wines are produced by Veiga da Princesa, a winery that is part of the Pazo do Mar Group of wineries. Veiga da Princesa is located Arbo, Pontevedra, in western Spain near the Atlantic Ocean and just north of Portugal. The vineyard was first planted in 2002, plot by plot, after two years of merging more than 200 small farms which were the property of more than 70 different owners!

The Albariño vines used to produce this white wine are cultivated on trellises, giving more airy, sun-kissed and less acidic grapes than those obtained with other vine-training techniques. This cultivating method also helps avoid the use of many phytosanitary treatments (i.e. disease control) which are applied in other sub-areas of this Appellation. All of the wines are produced and bottled using modern equipment and techniques, with a clear commitment to quality.

I had the pleasure of enjoying the 2016 Castelo do Mar Albariño a couple of years ago and am sure the 2018 will be just as good, if not better, due to a vintage that was rated 'very good' with a growing season that delivered a typical profile of the Albariño grape.

Tasting Note:

CASTELO DO MAR ALBARIÑO 2018 - DO Rías Baixas, Spain (#488734) (XD) - $19.95
100% Albariño from their 18 hectare estate in Tea County. Screw cap. The fragrant nose is ripe with tropical fruit, pineapple, peach, citrus and apple aromas with touches of floral. It's medium-full bodied on the palate with a rich, honeyed concentration of fruit and flavours of citrus and apple. Acids are vibrant and zesty, while oyster shell mineral notes arrive on the back palate, adding complexity and lingering through to the long, lip-smacking finish. Enjoy over the next 2-3 years. Score: 90 pts

Other lovely wines from Veiga da Princesa can be ordered via their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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