Montebuena Cuvée KPF 2020 (Rioja) - Wine Review

After enjoying the 2019 Montebuena Cuvée KPF nearly a couple of years ago, tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of this delicious Tempranillo from Rioja that arrived at the LCBO last weekend as part of the July 22nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced for Kysela Pere et Fils, Ltd. by a co-op that was established in the 1960s and is now the largest co-operative in the Basque Country in northern Spain. Kysela was founded in 1994 by Master Sommelier Fran Kysela, who inherited his interest in wine from his father, one of the top collectors of fine wine in Spain, and still maintains a 4,000 bottle cellar in Cleveland, Ohio. While attending graduate school at Cleveland State University and majoring in Zoology, Fran took a position selling Fetzer & Gallo wines for a local distributor, knowing he could use the extra money and work in the wine business only part-time. Little did he know that the wine business would soon become all-consuming and, consequently, he left graduate school altogether.

Being in the wine business for 43 years, Fran has worked as a wholesale representative, wine steward, national sales director and, since founding his business in 1994, a wine importer. In 1989, Fran received his Master Sommelier award from the British Court of Master Sommeliers, while in 1992 he passed the tasting half of the Master of Wine exam and hopes to complete the remainder of the MW exam in the future.

This red wine is named Montebuena, which means "good mountain", and comes from one of the best winegrowing areas in Labastida. It is situated in an area located in the eastern part of the village which covers more than 160 hectares in northern Spain. The viticultural records of Labastida go back several centuries, with the best evidence of its winemaking history being the "lagares rupestres", or rock presses. The lagares rupestres are human-origin formations that were carved into large rocks in the vineyards, consisting of three holes where the grapes were pressed to obtain the juice prior to fermentation, and were in use between the 9th & 18th centuries.

Montebuena sets itself apart with its unique position where the river Ebro is closest to the Sierra Cantabria mountains, creating a blend of Mediterranean and Continental climates that prevents an excess of rain and extreme cold. Moreover, the shallow and calcareous soils limit yields and the size of grapes, while increasing the volume of the skin, resulting in deeper colour and greater concentration of flavours. To craft this wine, which is 100% Tempranillo from 20-25 year-old vines in Rioja Alavesa within Rioja DOC, they use precise viticultural techniques and advanced technologies to track the vegetative cycle by using a system of weather stations to monitor the vineyards' health and prevent destructive diseases. The grapes were hand-harvested and aged for 3-4 months in new French oak. From a very good vintage, let's see how this 2020 Rioja is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

MONTEBUENA CUVÉE KPF 2020 - DOCa Rioja, Spain (#211029) (XD) - $17.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this 100% Tempranillo has a medium to medium-high intensity that nose delivers appealing ripe red and black cherry, sweet spices, sandalwood, and dried herbs aromas layered over stony-earthy minerals and flecks of dried cherry and florals. It's dry, spicy, and ripe on the medium+ palate with delicious red cherry, black cherry, red plum, vanilla, and cocoa flavours. It has fresh, juicy acidity, while the supple tannins have a pleasing, slightly chalky textured grip. Cocoa notes linger through to the long, savoury, and earthy finish. Give it a light chill and enjoy this recommended buy! Score: 88+ pts

Other delicious wines by Kysela and Montebuena can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits or Connexion Oenophilia.

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Le Vigne di Zamó Il Refosco 2018 (Friuli) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a delicious red wine crafted with the Refosco varietal from Friuli. It arrived at the LCBO earlier this month in the July 8 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Le Vigne di Zamò, a well-known Italian winery situated in the heart of the Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC in Manzano, within the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region of northeastern Italy. Their story begins in 1924, when the Zamò family opened Osteria di Manzano. It was managed by Luigi, father of Tullio and grandfather of Pierluigi and Silvano. The Zamò family's adventure in wine began in 1978 when Tullio purchased five hectares of vineyards on Rocca Bernarda hill and founded the estate Vigna del Leon.

In 1981, brothers Pierluigi and Silvano Zamò rented vineyards around Rosazzo Abbey from the Diocesan Administration of Udine and created their first wines under the brand new "Abazia di Rosazzo" label. In 1987, two champions of the wine world joined the team Zamò: Silvano Formigli, who was responsible for commercial development, and international acclaimed oenologist - Franco Bernabei. The 1990s were a time of expansion and success, with the family purchasing five hectares of vineyards at Ronchi di Buttrio, and another 15 hectares of vineyards right in front of the Abbey. In 1998, they restored the old farmhouse while also renting the oldest and best exposed vineyards on Rosazzo hill, bringing the total surface area of the estate's vineyards to 35 hectares. At the turn of the century, they purchased two more hectares of land on Rosazzo hill, while also working on extensive renovations.

In 2010, Oscar Farinetti entered into a partnership with Pierluigi and Silvano Zamò. Inspired by Tullio's passion for the land and ancestral love of wine, they decided to continue his work with the aim of maintaining the family nature of the estate. Their philosophy is that making wine is a sign of civilization, while strengthening the link between man and his land, his origins, and tradition. They manage their vineyards using natural methods, including the use of natural fertilizers, such as manure and humus, while keeping grass growth down mechanically. Although the Zamó family have always focused on sustainability in both the vineyard and cellar, the 2021 harvest was the first certified organic harvest for the winery. The family's production philosophy also respects the law and timing of nature as it pertains to the phases of grape growing, a simplistic approach that is reflected in the balance of the wines. While Friuli is internationally renowned for its white wines, the Zamó family have always invested considerably in its red wines, using autochthonous grape varieties such as Pignolo and Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso.

This red wine is crafted using Refosco, a very old family of dark-skinned grape varieties that are native to the Venetian zone in Italy and the surrounding areas such as Friuli. It is believed that Refosco has its ancient origins in the Mediterranean and has been cultivated in Italy for centuries. There are several sub-varieties within the Refosco family and this particular red wine is made using Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, the most internationally recognizable sub-variety of Refosco, with the most notable examples coming from the Colli Orientali region of Friuli. This particular variant of Refosco has red stems (aka red stalks or peduncle) which hold the grapes to the vine.

To craft this wine, the grapes were de-stemmed and crushed, then transferred to stainless steel maceration vats for 10-12 days. After alcoholic fermentation, the wine was racked into stainless steel tanks and the pomace was pressed. Malolactic fermentation was completed in steel and followed by racking into 25 hL oak barrels where it aged for 12 months. Following ageing, the final wine is blended and bottled. Let's see how this 2018 Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso from Friuli is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LE VIGNE DI ZAMÓ IL REFOSCO 2018 - DOC Collio Orientali del Friuli, Italy (#105882) (XD) - $32.95
100% Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, this has a medium-high intensity nose that is quite attractive with a pleasing mix of ripe, plummy, dark berry, blackberry, black raspberry, and resinous herbal aromas with some earthy barnyard notes laying underneath. It's medium+ to medium-full bodied with high, sharp, and tangy acidity. Ripe and plummy on the dry flavour profile, it's joined by dark berry, black raspberry, and savoury undertones, plus touches of licorice. Tannins are youthful and a touch tight and grippy, while the tangy mid-palate leads to a long, savoury, earthy, and dark berry-tinged finish. A worthy detour and highly recommended buy. Score: 90+ pts

Other lovely wines by Le Vigne di Zamó can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret Fourchaume Chablis 1er Cru 2021 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

After enjoying the lovely 2020 Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret Petit Chablis earlier this year, for tonight's white wine review we take it up several notches with this excellent Chablis 1er Cru from the same producer. It arrived at the LCBO earlier this month as part of the July 8th LCBO VINTAGES Release New Collection and is available to buy now.

The story of Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret, a small, family-owned estate winery, begins in 1713 with Jean Vocoret, whose winemaking soul guided him to pass down his wisdom, his fruits, and the nobility of winemaking to his descendants, giving the current generation of the family the passion for craftsmanship in cultivating the vine and winemaking. The estate is located in the Chablis wine region of Burgundy, France, and is known for producing high-quality Chablis wines which are renowned for their purity, elegance, and mineral character. The estate has been passed down familial lines since its founding, and in the latter part of the 19th century, the Domain was renamed while in the hands of Yvon's great, great grandfather Victor Hyppolite Vocoret, who was born in 1863. At the time, they only had a few acres of vines and small barrels in the cellar.

Born in 1895, it was Yvon's grandparents, Henri and Louise Vocoret, who, despite the suffering during WWI, managed to make the land prosper with the help of his horses, his pride and joy, to produce excellent wine. As a winegrower, the richness of the profession compensated for the moral injury sustained from the horrible war, which affected him very deeply. Yvon's parents, Maurice and Huguette Vocoret, were the next owners of the Domain and together they carefully reflected upon the art of winemaking and innovated by investing in high-performing and efficient equipment for the cellar. They anticipated that with these improvements, the quality of their wines would gain recognition and respect. Since the time of Yvon's parents, the Domaine has maintained its reputation for producing high quality wines.

Today, the Domaine is in the hands of Yvon, son of Maurice and Huguette, and his son, Laurent, who is the 6th generation of the family. Also involved in the family business are the spouses, Christine, wife of Yvon, and Clémentine, wife of Laurent. Together, they have the same motivation as their ancestors and are grateful and respectful, as they continue to write the story of a humble, but determined, family of winegrowers. They use the same principles as generations that came before to respect the soil and grapes, and the wines that they produce. The wines of the Vocoret family are a reflection of the expertise and passion that has been handed down through the generations, while upholding the family motto of quality, dignity, and respect.

This Chablis 1er Cru is crafted with Chardonnay that was grown in Fourchaume, one of the best known, and largest, Premier Cru vineyards in Chablis. The Chardonnay vines average 45 years old and were grown on clayey-stony Kimmeridgian limestone soils on marl, with the limestone pebbles having a slightly whitish appearance. The vineyard has been farmed using organic amendments since 1974 and reasoned protection for the last 17 years to produce a noble product from protected lands, while also respecting the environment. The grapes were harvested using both manual and mechanical methods. It was vinified using the family's purest and simplest traditions for 5 generations, with both alcoholic and malolactic fermentations occurring naturally, as they wanted to respect the personality of the vintage. It was aged for 10 months in stainless steel tanks to retain freshness and character, with each plot allowed to express itself.

The challenging 2021 vintage can be broken down into three parts - cold at the beginning with frost, wet through the summer months, and variable during August and September. Yields were heavily reduced for whites, but the quality of what was picked was very good to excellent as it was a cooler-than-normal growing season. Let's see how this 2021 Chablis Premier Cru from Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE YVON & LAURENT VOCORET FOURCHAUME CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2021 - AC, Burgundy, France (#22776) (XD) - $52.95
100% Chardonnay from 45-year-old vines. Lovely, highly aromatic nose has flinty-earthy mineral aromas layered over lemon citrus and white floral, with impressive depth. It's medium+ weighted and dry with crisp, vibrant, and saliva-inducing acidity with lovely, ripe, and balanced aroma replays of lemon citrus, flinty mineral, and white floral flavours with a twist of honey and some spice notes. Gently tangy and tart on the mid-palate, while flinty-earthy mineral notes linger through to the exceptionally long, lightly chalky textured finish. Has the power to drink well to the end of the decade. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other fine wines by Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret can be purchased through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.

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July 22, 2023 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: American Idyll

Here's my top wine picks from the July 22, 2023 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection which is titled "American Idyll" and focuses on wines from the U.S.A. It's a big release with 151 wines that will be available at LCBO stores across Ontario by this Saturday. Also included in the printed catalogue is a sneak preview of next month's Online & Flagship Store Exclusive Release.

We begin with the feature on wines from the United States of America. There are fourteen wines as part of the theme, spread out across the four states that are leaders in fine wine production in the U.S. - California, Washington, Oregon, and New York, with three wines included among my top wine picks. At the top of the list is the California Chardonnay by Kistler. There are also a pair of wines from New York - a dry-ish Riesling and an unoaked Chardonnay, as well as a Zinfandel from Lodi.

Among my top red wine picks from the main release, we start in Tuscany with 2021 Chianti Classico that is made with 96% Sangiovese and 4% Merlot, while the 2018 Chianti Classico is straight Sangiovese. Spain is well-represented among my top wine picks with the 2011 Rioja composed with approximately 75% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacho, and 10% Graciano / Mazuelo, while both the 2016 and 2020 Rioja wines are crafted with 100% Tempranillo. The red wine from Spain's DO Almansa is a blend of approximately 50% Monastrell, 25% Garnacha Tintorera, and 25% Tempranillo. From Rhône, the Sablet is a blend based on Grenache and Syrah, while the red wine from Sicily is crafted with the Frappato grape, a varietal that is largely-unknown, but gaining in popularity. And lastly, the wine from Fleurieu in Australia is a blend of 65% Tempranillo and 35% Grenache.

There are a couple of blends among my white wine picks from the rest of the release, with the wine from McLaren Vale in Australia made with 66% Viognier and 34% Marsanne, while the white wine from Santorini is composed of 85% Assyrtiko and 15% Athiri. Chardonnay is well-represented among my picks with a pair of versions from Niagara, as well as singletons from Australia, Sonoma Coast, Napa Valley, and South Africa. Other white wines include an Assyrtiko from the high slopes of Aigialeia in Greece, and a Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough in New Zealand.

A couple of other brilliant wines are also worth your attention. The 2012 vintage Champagne is crafted with approximately 60% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, and 10% Meunier, with the 2013 Sauternes dessert wine is a blend of 93% Sémillon and 7% Sauvignon Blanc. In pink wines, the rosé from Provence is a blend of 60% Grenache, 35% Cinsault, and 5% Syrah, while the rosé from Portugal is composed of equal parts Touriga Nacional and Alfrocheiro.

Enjoy my top wine recommendations from this release! Cheers!

Red Wine:

• MONTEBUENA CUVÉE KPF 2020 - DOCa Rioja, Spain (#211029) (XD) - $17.95  88+ pts  wine review
• MARIUS FINCA LOS TIMONARES RESERVA 2018 - DO Almansa, Spain (#30232) (XD) - $17.95
• LE GRAVILLAS SABLET CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES 2020 - AC, France (#78790) (XD) - $18.95
• FOUR VINES OLD VINE ZINFANDEL 2019 - Lodi, California, USA (#17157) (D) - $19.95  88+ pts  wine review
• WAKEFIELD ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 - Limestone Coast / Clare Valley, South Australia (#744235) (XD) - $19.95  89 pts  wine review
• ARBOLEDA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 - Vegan, DO Valle del Aconcagua, Chile (#606764) (XD) - $19.95  89 pts  wine review
• ZONTE'S FOOTSTEP SPLITTING HARES TEMPRANILLO / GRENACHE 2021 - Vegan, Fleurieu, South Australia (#30847) (XD) - $21.95  89 pts  wine review

• ALTANZA RESERVA 2016 - Vegan, DOCa Rioja, Spain (#208223) (XD) - $23.95  89 pts  wine review
• PLANETA FRAPPATO 2021 - Sustainable, DOC Sicilia Vittoria, Italy (#508655) (XD) - $24.95  91+ pts  wine review
• TAWSE GROWERS BLEND CABERNET FRANC 2020 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#284570) (XD) - $29.95  90 pts  wine review
• VECCHIE TERRE DI MONTEFILI CHIANTI CLASSICO 2018 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#28723) (XD) - $40.95
• CASTELLO DI AMA AMA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2021 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#515759) (XD) - $42.95
• R. LÓPEZ DE HEREDIA VIÑA TONDONIA RESERVA 2011 - DOCa Rioja, Spain (#356337) (XD) - $72.95

White Wine:

• ALVI'S DRIFT SIGNATURE CHARDONNAY 2021 - WO Western Cape, South Africa (#21151) (XD) - $14.95  88+ pts  wine review
• WAKEFIELD ESTATE LABEL CHARDONNAY 2021 - Padthaway / Clare Valley, South Australia (#711556) (XD) - $17.95  89 pts  wine review
• D'ARENBERG THE HERMIT CRAB VIOGNIER / MARSANNE 2022 - McLaren Vale, South Australia (#662775) (XD) - $19.95
• LAMOREAUX LANDING UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2021 - Estate bottled, Finger Lakes, New York, USA (#32669) (XD) - $24.95  89 pts  wine review
• ROUVALIS ASSYRTIKO 2021 - PGI Slopes of Aigialeia, Greece (#33207) (XD) - $24.95
• LEANING POST THE FIFTY CHARDONNAY 2020 - Vegan, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#578864) (XD) - $24.95
• TWO RIVERS CONVERGENCE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 - Vegan, sustainable, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#277707) (XD) - $26.95
• DR. KONSTANTIN FRANK DRY RIESLING 2021 - Finger Lakes, New York, USA (#70631) (D) - $29.95  90 pts  wine review
• STRATUS CHARDONNAY 2021 - Vegan, sustainable, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (#267856) (XD) - $35.00
• SIGALAS AA 2021 - PDO Santorini, Greece (#33162) (XD) - $36.95  91 pts  wine review
• STAGS' LEAP WINERY CHARDONNAY 2020 - Napa Valley, California, USA (#655381) (XD) - $44.95  92+ pts  wine review
• FLOWERS CHARDONNAY 2021 - Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California, USA (#215210) (XD) - $59.95
• KISTLER LES NOISETIERS CHARDONNAY 2021 - Unfiltered, unfined, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California, USA (#251223) (XD) - $114.95

Rosé Wine:

• CABRIZ ROSÉ 2022 - DOC Dão, Portugal (#30445) (D) - $14.95  88+ pts  wine review
• LA POSTA MALBEC ROSÉ 2022 - Sustainable, Tupungato, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina (#24747) (XD) - $16.95
• 13TH STREET EXPRESSION SERIES CABERNET FRANC ROSÉ 2022 - Vegan, sustainable, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#20359) (XD) - $17.95
• VILLA AIX EN PROVENCE ROSÉ 2022 - AP Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence, France (#668426) (XD) - $21.95

Sparkling Wine:

• HENRIOT BRUT ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE 2012 - AC, France (#14846) (XD) - $152.95

Dessert Wine:

• CHÂTEAU SUDUIRAUT SAUTERNES 2013 - AC Sauternes 1er Grand Cru Classé, Bordeaux, France (#29516) (S) (375 mL) - $63.00

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Greystone Pinot Noir 2018 (New Zealand) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is another excellent, organic, and vegan-friendly Pinot Noir from New Zealand. It is brand new to the LCBO, arriving as part of the recent July 8 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Greystone Wines, a 100% certified organic winery that was established in 2000 by the Thomas Family when they saw something magical - a promise of excellence - in an old sheep farm in Waipara’s Omihi Hills, in northern Canterbury on the South Island of New Zealand. Greystone draws its name from the unique limestone conglomerate that is the bedrock on which their vine roots grow in. This limestone mix of fossils, sea shells, and small pebbles had been fused together over time through the seismic movement of North Canterbury, becoming an ancient seabed that was pushed and folded upwards to form the Teviotdale Hills. Pinot Noir loves soils with limestone, and thus different clones, aspects and blocks were planted to see what was capable from this bare land.

As the family believes that true fine wines are temporal, each vintage a fleeting snapshot of a place in time. The family doesn't seek to manipulate the final product with additives or flavourings, instead, they allow the true interpretation of the soil, vines, and season to shine through. They take intense pleasure in protecting their land and using organic practices as it leads to many ecological benefits, such as healthy soils, healthy waterways, biodiversity, and a safe place for bees and other beneficial insects. The use of natural products throughout production also provides a safe and happy work environment for their dedicated team. They see their commitment to organic winegrowing as a bigger picture collaboration with the planet towards a more stable climate and sustainable ecosystem.

The story of how Greystone became one of New Zealand's most acclaimed organic vineyards began in early 2014 when they started their conversion from conventional to organic viticulture. By 2018, they had successfully converted their entire 33-hectare vineyard to certified organic by BioGro New Zealand. In 2021, they began their journey to become a fully regenerative and carbon-neutral farm. Today, Greystone is one of NZ's first regenerative agricultural wine brands.

Organic winegrowing relies on harnessing biodiversity and natural ecological cycles as an alternative to the use of synthetic and external inputs. It is a hands-on and labour-intensive approach, which also means being intimately connected to the vineyard and attuned to the subtle changes in the soil, vines, and grapes. Synthetic chemicals are avoided to ensure the health and abundance of microbial flora above and below the soil, which results in successful wild fermentation as this is only possible because of the flourishing yeast populations found in the vineyard.

As vineyards are a monoculture, to increase biodiversity, Greystone cultivates "companion plantings" such as Phacelia, Buckwheat, and Alyssum in the inter-rows, as well as planting native trees and vegetation to disrupt the monocultural environment. Crop management is meticulously done by hand without the use of any herbicides, insecticides, or systemic fungicides, thus reducing disease pressure and increasing overall wine quality.

This 100% Pinot Noir (clones 115, 667, 777, and 5) was organically grown on their estate, on clay over limestone soils. The grapes were carefully hand-picked and sorted, then wild fermented with 10% whole bunches at ambient temperatures. They gently hand plunged each vat daily before pressing to French oak barriques after one month of maceration. Each barrel underwent a natural malolactic fermentation the following summer. It was aged for 11 months in French oak barriques, 28% new, and was then blended and bottled.

The growing season in Waipara Valley began with spring rains that cooled the soil and gave the vines a slow start to the season. Flowering wasn't ideal, leading to small bunches and lots of leaf growth, so it needed extensive canopy work to ensure even ripening. Summer helped turn things around in the new year with a particularly dry & hot February, leading to a harvest that delivered pristine fruit with great concentration, but very small yields. Let's see how this 2018 Pinot Noir from New Zealand is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

GREYSTONE PINOT NOIR 2018 - Waipara Valley, North Canterbury, South Island, New Zealand (#30151) (XD) - $33.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this lovely organic and vegan-friendly Pinot Noir has a fresh, fragrant, and highly aromatic nose with a lovely, balanced, and complex mix of dark red cherry, strawberry, spices, earthy-stony minerality and beetroot aromas. It's mid-weighted with very good concentration on the elegant palate with smooth, gentle, and refined tannins, along with fresh, juicy acidity. It's very nicely balanced with lovely dark red cherry, strawberry, earthy beetroot, and spices, plus touches of plum flavours surrounding a stony mineral core. Supple mouthfeel with tea leaf notes emerging on the mid-palate, while the finish is exceptionally long with lingering stony mineral notes. Wow. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 5+ years. Score: 93 pts

A limited quantiy of other fine wines by Greystone are available at the LCBO, while the entire range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Hidden Bench Locust Lane Rosé 2022 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's rosé wine review is a lovely organic and dry rosé from Niagara that arrived at the LCBO last month as part of the recent June 24 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Hidden Bench Estate Winery, one of the top wineries in the Niagara Peninsula. Hidden Bench was founded in 2003 by Harald Thiel and family with a dedication to artisanal, terroir-focused, and premium wines using grapes from their own, organic, estate vineyards situated within the sup-appellation of VQA Beamsville Bench in Niagara, Ontario. With a non-interventionist, quality-focused, and terroir-driven approach, Hidden Bench has long-established an ongoing reputation for excellence both domestically and internationally.

The Beamsville Bench is home to many of the best wines produced in Ontario. Much of this success is attributed to the limestone-rich, clay-based, and glacial till soils - all three of Hidden Bench's estate vineyards are situated on these soils and allow them to produce complex, mineral-driven wines that are old-world in style, age worthy, and have a definitive sense of place. The three estate vineyards are farmed for low yields using organic and biodynamic practices to produce approximately 120,000 bottles of wine with pronounced complexity and character which bear a sense of place and time.

Hidden Bench also employs the latest technologies to enhance the viticultural and winemaking processes, while respecting their traditional non-interventionist winemaking style. As stewards of the land, Hidden Bench has also embraced sustainability as they apply Procert certified organic and sustainable best practices in the vineyard, at the winery, and the marketing of their wines to reduce their environmental footprint on the land, and impact on their neighbours, and society as a whole.

I've had the pleasure of tasting many wines over the years from Hidden Bench, and their passion is always on full display as they embrace a whole-team approach that is founded upon a shared, ongoing passion for excellence, as well as a contagious enthusiasm. Their ongoing and uncompromising attention to detail distinguishes and differentiates their wines and winery from their contemporaries.

Having tasted this rosé wine several times in the past, I know that the exact composition changes with each vintage. For the 2022 vintage, this dry rosé is composed of 88% Pinot Noir, 6% Viognier, and 6% Chardonnay. All of the grapes were grown organically on the estate and crafted using a combination of both "direct to press" and "saignée" techniques. As this blend is predominantly Pinot Noir, the elegance of whole-cluster pressed Pinot Noir, combined with a small percentage of the richer saignée portion, provides a unique complexity to the finished wine, while both portions were fermented in neutral French oak and aged for 5 months prior to racking and blending.

The 2022 vintage began with cold temperatures in January, with overnight lows close to -21°C. This cold snap caused some primary bud damage, and was partially responsible for a 25% reduction in grape yields compared to their historical average. Spring brought better weather with seasonal temperatures and minimal precipitation. Flowering started earlier than normal, while the berry set was complete by late June. Summer was moderate and dry, with seasonal rainfall. The main challenge in the vineyard was managing disease pressures, which were the result of high humidity from June through August. Disease pressure was reduced by keeping the fruit clean through timely leaf removal, crop thinning, and a disciplined and timely organic spray program. Veraison began in early August and was completed towards the middle of the month, while harvest began in the middle of September and lasted until mid-to-late October. Hidden Bench was blessed with consistent and favourable weather during harvest, which allowed them to choose pick dates based on flavour and ripeness.

It is often said, particularly in Niagara, that the quality of the vintage is determined by the weather in September and October. Overall, Hidden Bench was pleased with the quality of the harvested fruit, albeit in smaller-than-normal quantities. It is expected that the 2022 vintage is excellent across the board with wines that will truly showcase the terroir of the Beamsville Bench in Niagara. Let's see how this 2022 rosé from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

HIDDEN BENCH LOCUST LANE ROSÉ 2022 - Sustainable, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#68833) (XD) - $24.95
This organic rosé is blend of 88% Pinot Noir, 6% Viognier, and 6% Chardonnay. The deep and intense nose offers lovely, complex aromas of grapefruit, citrus, orange, stony minerals, and floral accented with strawberry, melon, watermelon, and peach. It's medium+ bodied on the dry, lightly honeyed palate with fresh, juicy acidity supporting grapefruit, citrus, strawberry, watermelon, melon, orange, mineral, and floral flavours. Slightly viscous mouthfeel on the mid-palate. It's nicely balanced with pleasing mineral, grapefruit, and citrus flavours that are joined by spicy notes on the long, crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

Many other lovely wines from the fine portfolio of Hidden Bench Estate Winery can be purchased through the LCBO, their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits, or direct from the winery in Niagara.

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Tedeschi Capitel Nicalò Valpolicella Superiore 2020 (Veneto) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of a lovely Valpolicella Superiore that arrived at the LCBO last month as part of the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on June 24th.

It is produced by Azienda Agricola Tedeschi, also known as Tedeschi Wines, a prominent family-owned winery situated in the Valpolicella region, within Veneto in northeastern Italy. Founded in 1630, Tedeschi has a long and rich history in winemaking spanning over four centuries. Considered one of the leading wineries in Valpolicella, Tedeschi is also a pioneer in crafting cru wines from the region. Tedeschi Winery has been passed down through the generations within the family while having a strong commitment to quality winemaking and respect for traditional winemaking methods.

Today, Tedeschi is a renowned and respected producer of Amarone and other wines from Valpolicella. The winemaking philosophy at Tedeschi is based on patience - to wait for the amount of time required both in the vineyard and in the winery - and dedication - to carefully attend to details and have the appropriate attitude towards the raw materials, while striving to combine long-held family traditions with innovative research, experimentation, and production methods. Their profound attention to detail in the vineyard includes research to uncover the perfect interaction between the characteristics of the soil, micro-climate, sun exposure, selecting the most appropriate varietals, and the cultivation system. The resulting wines are elegant and endowed with marked personality, revealing the richness, tastes and aromas that are typical of the earth that have always characterized their production and identity. Tedeschi has always respected the environment and is certified sustainable according to the standards of Biodiversity Friend and Equalitas.

Like the 2019 Tedeschi Capitel Nicalò Valpolicella Superiore that I enjoyed a couple of years ago, this vintage continues to be a blend of 35% Corvina, 35% Corvinone, 20% Rondinella, and 10% Rossignola / Oseleta / Negrara / Dindarella. The grapes were grown in the Moraine Hills, where the soils are moraine clay and limestone of moraine origin, in the heart of Valpolicella and vinified in the Veronese tradition of drying the grapes. By placing the grapes in crates for about one month, the grapes undergo partial dehydration, losing about 8-10% of their weight. This natural process results in water loss while enriching the sugar content of the grapes, their dry extract, and the colour of
the wine.

After harvesting the grapes, they were dried for one month and then underwent maceration and both alcoholic and malolactic fermentation. The wine was aged in Slavonian oak barrels for 12 to 18 months, and underwent further ageing for 6 months in bottle. The wine is named after their ancestor, Niccolò, and is crafted to be pleasing for all gastronomic delights. From a good vintage that is better than the 2019 vintage, let's see how this 2020 Valpolicella Superiore is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TEDESCHI CAPITEL NICALÒ VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE 2020 - Sustainable, DOC, Veneto, Italy (#984997) (XD) - $19.95
Blend of 35% Corvina, 35% Corvinone, 20% Rondinella, and 10% Rossignola / Oseleta / Negrara / Dindarella. The clean, fresh, and fragrant nose offers an attractive mix of savoury earth, leafy herbs, black and dark red cherry, and fine spice aromas, plus some dried fruit, and red plum nuances adding further complexity. It's medium-full bodied on the dry palate with fresh, juicy, and tangy lemony acidity lifting the dark cherry fruited, savoury earth, fine spices, cedary oak, and mocha flavours. Supple, dusty textured tannins are smooth and refined. Tangy and dry with dark berry, earth, and wood spice notes lingering on the long, juicy, and well-balanced finish. Enjoyable now and over the next 4-5 years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

With a fairly large portfolio, some wines by Tedeschi are available at the LCBO, while the entire range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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