Boutari Naoussa Xinomavro 2021 (Greece) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the emblematic and lovely Xinomavro from Naoussa in Greece that arrived at the LCBO in the recent March 15 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Boutari, one of Greece's most historic and influential wineries. Boutari Winery was established in 1879 in Northern Greece in Naoussa, Macedonia, by Ioannis Boutaris. In 1906, Mr. Boutaris built the city's first privately-owned winery and retail cellar, while also launching the production of the first Greek red wine that was bottled under the now-renowned "Naoussa Boutari" label.

By the mid-1930s, Stelios Boutaris, son of Ioannis, took over the reins of the family business and began exporting wines to other countries in 1935. Stelios also built a second winery in Naoussa and laid the foundation for years to come. In 1968, Giannis and Konstantinos Boutaris, the two sons of Stelios, took over the winery, ventured into vine growing by purchasing a vineyard in Imathia, and propelled the company to new heights, while also shaping it into what it is today. A decade later, Boutari inaugurated their new, state-of-the-art winery in Stenimachos, Naoussa. This flagship winery remains the centre of production, bottling, and ageing today.

The 1980s were a time of growth as Boutari expanded their operations to most of the major wine-producing regions in Greece. The Boutaris family also became actively involved in the cultural, social, and economic growth of their host communities, while also highlighting each region's unique identity and vine-growing qualities. During this period, Boutari also experimented with the cultivation of Greek and foreign varieties to create new wines that are mainstays of the current portfolio. Boutari has continued to grow and expand throughout the years, garnering numerous accolades along the way.

Boutari has wineries situated in the most important wine-producing regions of Greece - Mantineia, Naoussa, and Goumenissa. This particular red wine is from their Naoussa estate winery, which is situated on the eastern edge of Vermio in the region of Macedonia in Northern Greece. It was in Naoussa where Boutari's journey began. While viticulture in the Naoussa area is deeply rooted in the past, Boutari's presence has been decisive not only for the preservation of the Xinomavro variety during times when viticulture was threatened, but also for the promotion and recognition of the variety and the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) zone of Naoussa. This achievement was realized by producing excellent and historically significant wines.

Emblematic of modern Greek wine history, this Boutari Naoussa is one of the first Greek red bottled PDO wines and constitutes a landmark for red wines in Greece. It is crafted using 100% Xinomavro that was vinified by a 24-hour cold maceration (with a small percentage bled off for rosé production), followed by a controlled alcoholic fermentation with selected yeast strains at 20–27°C. The wine underwent a gentle extraction with few pumpovers prior to starting malolactic fermentation. It was matured in 5th- and 6th-use French oak barrels for 12 months, then filtered with sheet filtration prior to bottling.

The vintage in 2021 in Naoussa began with a relatively warm winter, with rainfall mainly limited to January. The first two months of spring were cold with little rainfall, which resulted in a later than normal budbreak and flowering, while May was relatively warm and dry. June featured relatively high temperatures and sufficient rainfall, which led to intense vegetative growth and larger grapes. Summer was particularly hot, with increased diurnal temperature ranges between day and night, and reduced rainfall, conditions which stressed the vines and delayed ripening. The first half of September presented ideal conditions for late-ripening varieties such as Xinomavro, while the latter half of the month featured low nighttime temperatures and autumn rains making their first appearance, which benefited the plants. Xinomavro was the last variety to be harvested, and it was completed prior to the rains that began in Naoussa on October 5th. From a vintage that produced positive results, let's see how this 2021 Naoussa Xinomavro from Greece is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BOUTARI NAOUSSA XINOMAVRO 2021 - PDO Naoussa, Macedonia, Greece (#23218) (XD) - $20.95
The medium+ to medium-high intensity nose has maturing aromas of dried dark red cherry and rose floral with woody, savoury earth, and cinnamon accents, plus whiffs of fresh lemon citrus. On the dry, medium-full to full-bodied palate it has a lovely, maturing flavour profile of dried cherry, floral, oak spice, cinnamon, and earthy replays, plus some sour cherry notes. It's supported by juicy, lemony-sour acidity, alongside medium-firm structured tannins. Savoury earth, mineral, and cinnamon notes linger on the long, fairly firm, sour-edged, and juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

A couple of other wines by Boutari are available at the LCBO, while the full portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Kolonaki Fine Wines & Spirits.