Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Marnes et Caillottes Sancerre 2019 (Loire) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a brilliant Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre that arrived at the LCBO last weekend as part of the August 7 LCBO VINTAGES Release. However, this lovely white wine is listed as a VINTAGES Online Exclusive and can only be purchased online through LCBO.com.

One of my favourite Loire wine producers, Jean-Max Roger comes from a long line of winegrowers dating back to at least the early part of the 17th century. The winery, which has evolved over time with the development of the estate, is located in the heart of the village of Bué. The oldest structures on the estate are date back to the 17th century, while part of the winery was once one of the village's tithe barns.

In the early 1970s, Jean-Max Roger took over the property from his parents, and in 2004 was joined by two of his three sons, Thibault and Etienne. The estate's vineyards are managed according to regional winegrowing traditions, while also striving to uphold sustainable viticultural practices. The Roger family uses the Guyot Poussart pruning method which helps to better balance the vines and respect sap flow, in turn keeping the vines strong and healthy.

I last enjoyed this white wine when the 2018 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Marnes et Caillottes Sancerre arrived at the LCBO in November 2019 and am delighted to taste the latest vintage. The grapes for this Sauvignon Blanc were grown in several vineyards within the Sancerre appellation villages of Bué and Amigny. The soils in these vineyards are a blend of Kimmeridgian Marls called "Marnes" and Limestone called "Caillottes" - hence the name of this wine. The vines are between 5 and 40 years of age with southeastern and southwestern exposure to the sun and farmed using organic principles to revitalize soil life and produce grapes that reveal its terroir. At the winery, the grapes are long-fermented using natural yeasts to develop aromatic complexity, followed by ageing on heavy lees to develop minerality.

During the growing season in 2019, although the summer heat and dry weather stressed the vines and reduced yields, the fruit at harvest was of premium quality, with general consensus being that the quality is even better than the previous year. I rated the last vintage of this wine 92 pts, let's see how the 2019 is tasting...

Tasting Note:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE MARNES ET CAILLOTTES SANCERRE 2019 - AC, Loire, France (#196667) (XD) - $31.95
100% Sauvignon Blanc from Kimmeridgian Marls ("Marnes") and stony calcareous "Caillottes" terroirs, this has an intense, aromatic nose that is elegant, pretty, and ripe with lemon citrus, floral, and earthy white stone mineral notes accented with stone fruit and white peach. The concentrated, medium-full bodied palate has lovely aroma replays of ripe lemon citrus, white peach, floral, and white stone mineral adding a pleasant savoury touch. Subtly spice on the mid-palate, along with a slightly chalky texture. Finely balanced throughout with fresh, well-articulated acidity. Oyster-shell minerality with hints of citrus lingers on the juicy finish, with excellent length. Beautiful. Highly recommended buy. Score: 92+ pts

Other lovely wines from Jean-Max Roger are available at the LCBO, as well as through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Viña Cobos Felino Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is this delicious Cabernet Sauvignon from Argentina that arrived at the LCBO last weekend, as part of the August 7th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Viña Cobos was established 1988 by founding partner and winemaker Paul Hobbs. Since that time, he has explored the different terroirs of Mendoza, looking for the most distinguished regions in Luján de Cuyo and Uco Valley to produce wines that authentically and uniquely express their terroir and origins.

Although Mendoza is divided into various regions for the cultivation of excellent quality vines, Paul finds that the Uco Valley and Luján de Cuyo stand out for their particular growing conditions. Luján de Cuyo is known historically as the premier winegrowing region in Mendoza with its high elevation between 800 and 1,100 metres (2,624 and 3,308 feet), semi-desert climate, and low-nutrient, gravelly soils. The Uco Valley is at the privileged location at the foot of the Andes Mountains at high-altitudes between 900 and 1,400 m (2,952 and 4,593 feet), and has alluvial soils that are incredibly rocky with pebbles and stones of varying sizes scattered throughout.

The Andes Mountains strongly influence the climate in Mendoza by blocking the humid conditions created by the Pacific Ocean to the west, resulting in a temperate climate that is mostly dry with plentiful sunshine, and along with a wide diurnal temperature range, helps create favourable vine growing conditions. Snowmelt is the principal source of irrigation as the pure mountain water is distributed through an ingenious thousand-year-old system of canals designed and constructed by the Huarpes, the indigenous people of the region.

Viña Cobos has several estates and vineyards, and this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon was hand-harvested from sustainably farmed vineyards located in semi-desert climates in Uco Valley and Luján de Cuyo, at high altitudes between 700 and 1,195 metres (2,306 and 3,927 feet). The different parcels of grapes were kept separate throughout vinification and produced with minimal intervention. It was fermented with selected and native yeasts in closed-top stainless steel tanks, and gently moved throughout the winery using gravity flow. It was in aged in American oak barrels (10% new) for 8 months. The 2019 vintage was characterized by great thermal amplitude (high diurnal temperatures) and low rainfall, resulting in fruit bunches of excellent quality. Let's see how this 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon from Argentina is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

VIÑA COBOS FELINO CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019 - Unfined, Mendoza, Argentina (#132365) (XD) - $19.95
From vineyards in Uco Valley and Luján de Cuyo, this Cabernet Sauvignon has a clean, highly aromatic nose that delivers spicy, dark fruited, blackberry, and savoury aromas accented with grilled herbs, leafy, and graphite notes. It's full-bodied on the spicy, dark fruited, blackberry palate joined by herbal and plummy flavours framed by fresh, succulent acidity and fine, dusty textured tannins. Savoury with dark berry, and a graphite edge on the finish, with very good length. Enjoyable now, and should be even better in 3-4 years. Recommended buy. Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines from Viña Cobos can be ordered through their Agent - Rogers & Company.

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Torbreck Old Vines Grenache / Shiraz / Mourvèdre 2017 (Barossa) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely GSM blend from Australia that returned to the LCBO last weekend in the August 7 LCBO VINTAGES Release as a "VINTAGES Online Exclusive", meaning that it is only available for purchase online through LCBO.com. To purchase, simply click on the product code below to visit its product page on the LCBO website.

Torbreck Vintners was founded in 1994 by David Powell. It was named after a forest in Scotland where David worked as a lumberjack. David gained his experience in winemaking by working at other wineries in Barossa prior to forming Torbreck, but was inspired to create his own label. In order to achieve this, he began to share-farm vineyards, which allowed Torbreck to obtain fruit from the very best vineyards in the Barossa Valley. With his love for wines from France's Rhône Valley, Torbreck's highly-acclaimed red and white wines were also based on classic Rhône varieties - Shiraz (Syrah), Grenache and Mataró (Mourvèdre) - all of which are considered classic varieties of the Barossa.

Today, Torbreck Vintners is owned by Proprietor Peter Kight with the aim of building one of the best wine estates in the world. Torbreck considers Barossa to be the most exciting place to make wine in the world, with its gentle Mediterranean climate and 175 years of Silesian and English commitment to grape-growing and winemaking. They work with multi-generational winegrowers, whose ancestors arrived here nearly two centuries ago, and have great knowledge of the seasons and soil, while working the vineyards with minimal intervention and aiming to get the best out of each vineyard site.

This red wine is a blend of 62% Grenache, 26% Shiraz, and 12% Mourvèdre that was hand-harvested from old vines, some as much as 100 years old, from the sub-regions of Marananga, Gomersal, and Ebenezer. As each parcel of grapes enters the winery, they were fermented in a combination of open top cement and wooden vats, as well as stainless steel tanks. It was aged in well-seasoned French oak hogsheads for 24 months. Each parcel was kept separate throughout the vinification process, until it was finally blended and bottled.

During the growing season in the Barossa Valley, a wet spring replenished sub-soil moisture, while a warm, dry Indian summer created perfect ripening conditions through to April 2017, resulting in an outstanding vintage that produced intense, well-structured reds. I had the opportunity to taste this 2017 back in January 2020 and am curious to see how it has evolved since then.

Tasting Note:

TORBRECK OLD VINES GRENACHE / SHIRAZ / MOURVÈDRE 2017 - Barossa Valley, South Australia (#10223) (XD) - $24.95
Screw cap. This GSM blend of 62% Grenache, 26% Shiraz, and 12% Mourvèdre is open and complex on the nose with lovely aromas of red berry, strawberry, and cherry mingling with savoury, black pepper, dried spice, earth, and a touch of rosemary. The medium-full bodied palate has slightly maturing flavours of dried red and black berries, strawberry, raspberry, black pepper, and spices supported by fresh, lively acidity and smooth, refined, and lightly chalky tannins. Nicely balanced flavours throughout with savoury, earthy and red berry complexity on the long finish. Enjoy this recommended buy lightly chilled. Score: 90+ pts

A limited selection of Torbreck wines are available at the LCBO, while others from the Torbreck portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Jean-Max Roger La Grange Dîmière Sancerre Rosé 2020 (Loire) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is this lovely dry rosé from Sancerre that arrived at the LCBO this weekend, as part of the August 7 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Jean-Max Roger comes from a long-line of winegrowers in the village of Bué, just southwest of the town of Sancerre, with the Roger family name mentioned in texts going back to the early part of the 17th century. In the early 1970s, Jean-Max Roger took over the 4 hectares of vines left to him by his parents, and together with his wife, Nicole, developed the vineyards and further expanded the estate. In 2004, he was joined by two of this three sons, Etienne and Thibault. Today, the estate covers 34 hectares, 28 of which are in the Sancerre appellation along the Loire River.

I've always enjoyed this rose, including most recently just over three years ago when the 2017 Jean-Max Roger La Grange Dîmière Sancerre Rosé showed up at the LCBO. This lovely rose is crafted from 100% Pinot Noir grown in the villages of Vinon, Bué, and Sancerre, on flint, Kimmeridgian marls & Limestone Silex, Terres Blanches & Caillottes soils. The vines average between 25 to 45 years old and are farmed using organic principles, including revitalization of soil life, to produce grapes which reveal its terroir. In the winery, the grapes undergo a long fermentation to develop aromatic complexity and are aged on heavy lees to develop minerality.

Although little detailed information exists about the 2020 vintage in Loire, it was frost-free and relatively easy-going, resulting in an excellent vintage with berry fruited and aromatic rosé wines. Let's see how this 2020 Sancerre Rosé is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

JEAN-MAX ROGER LA GRANGE DÎMIÈRE SANCERRE ROSÉ 2020 - AC, Loire, France (#490813) (XD) - $26.95
This 100% Pinot Noir rosé has a fresh, elegant, and intense nose with attractive aromas of grapefruit, citrus, red currant, strawberry, red cherry, and mineral. It's medium+ bodied with good weight to the fruit with lovely grapefruit, citrus and red berry flavours coming through on the dry palate. Acids are well-balanced, while white pepper spice notes join the grapefruit, citrus, and red berry profile on the mid-palate, lingering through to the long, leesy mineral finish. Recommended buy. Score: 90+ pts

Other lovely wines from Jean-Max Roger are available at the LCBO, as well as through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Durigutti Proyecto Las Compuertas Cinco Suelos Malbec 2018 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Continuing the recent string of lovely wines from Argentina, tonight's red wine review is an excellent Malbec that arrives at the LCBO this weekend, as part of the August 7th LCBO VINTAGES Release. If I'm not mistaken, I believe this my first time tasting any wines from this producer.

Born and raised in Mendoza, brothers Hector and Pablo established Durigutti Family Winemakers in western Luján de Cuyo in 2002 after growing up in a sensoral world with aromas, ingredients and flavours that, over time, motivated them to become oenologists. Today, the Durigutti brothers have evolved to form the new generation of winemakers who are leading the evolutionary change in Argentina's viticulture.

In 2007, they purchased their first 5 hectares of historical Malbec vineyards located on Callejón de la Reta, just around the corner from the winery. They began to recover and revitalize the history and viticultural traditions of the Las Compuertas district in Lujan de Cuyo. Today, they have 31 hectares of vines at the site, which is named in honour of their mother - Finca Victoria.

Durigutti has a number of collections of wines, and within their Family Estate Wine collection - which aims to offer a maximum interpretation of its soils - is the Proyecto Las Compuertas range that celebrates the rich history of the Las Compuertas district.

This very impressive Malbec comes from vines that were planted in 1914 at an altitude of 1,050 metres (3,440 feet) above sea level and are farmed organically. This area offers a cool-climate and has diverse soils which are alluvial, deep, and low in fertility. This Malbec is named after the five different parcels of grapes that make up the wine. Each parcel are characterized by their soils - deep clayish soil, limestone, stony soil, frank sandy soil and river stones soil, and is vinified separately before creating the final blend. After manually harvesting the grapes, they are fermented with indigenous yeasts in concrete eggs, followed by malolactic fermentation in 3rd and 4th use barrels. It was aged for 3 months in 500 L of 3rd and 4th use oak barrels, and more than 11 months in concrete eggs. Personally, I love minimally-oaked Malbec wines. Let's see how this Argentinean Malbec is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DURIGUTTI PROYECTO LAS COMPUERTAS CINCO SUELOS MALBEC 2018 - Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina (#12670) (XD) - $29.95
The highly aromatic and energetic nose offers attractive aromas of red and black fruits, raspberry and blackberry that mingle with savoury stony minerals and spices. It's medium-full bodied with lovely aroma replays lifted by fresh, balanced acidity and fine-grained tannins that are slightly chalky and grippy, tapering to a savoury, minerally, slightly smoky finish, with excellent length. Really nicely balanced throughout. Highly recommended buy. Score: 92 pts

Other lovely wines from Durigutti can be found at the LCBO, as well as through their Agent - Loyal Imports.

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August 7, 2021 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: Old World Meets New World + Orange Wines

The main theme of the August 7, 2021 LCBO VINTAGES Release compares Old World wines to their New World counterparts, while the mini-theme features Orange Wines. All of these wines, plus those from the Main Release should be on shelves across Ontario by this Saturday. In addition, there are also a select number of wines in this Release listed as a VINTAGES Online Exclusive (VOE). These VOE wines - a few of which are recommended below - aren't listed anywhere in the printed magazine and are only available for purchase through lcbo.com for delivery to your home or nearest LCBO outlet. Clicking on the product code for each wine will take you its product page on lcbo.com.

From the main theme on comparing Old World and New World wines, just one wine made my list of wine picks - a Rhône blend from the old world of Vacqueyras (France) that is mainly Grenache and Syrah, along with some Cinsault and Mourvèdre.

The mini-feature looks at Orange Wines which are also known as Amber Wines or Skin-Fermented White Wines. These types of wines are crafted using white wine grapes that are fermented with prolonged skin or lees contact, adding depth and unique flavours to the resulting wine, along with an orange or amber hue. Although none of orange wines made my list of wine recommendations (mostly because I'm not a big fan of the category), I have enjoyed the Southbrook Vidal Skin Fermented White Orange Wine in the past and the latest vintage is featured in this Release. Orange wines are a bit of an acquired tasted and worth trying at least once.

Among my red wine recommendations, the "GSM" blend from Barossa Valley consists of 65% Grenache, 26% Shiraz, and 12% Mourvèdre, while the Languedoc red is a blend of 85% Syrah, 10% Grenache, and 5% Mourvèdre. The Tonel 78 is a 50/50 blend of Malbec and Bonarda, while the Chianti Classico is mainly Sangiovese with Canaiolo and other red grape varietals in support. Single varietal red wines include a lovely Malbec from Argentina, a Cabernet Sauvignon that is also from Argentina, and an Australian Shiraz. Lastly, the Taurasi is 100% Aglianico, while the Barolo is 100% Nebbiolo.

From my white wine picks, three are blends. From South Africa, the Pekin White is a blend of 85% Chenin Blanc and the rest consisting of Roussanne, Viognier, and Sémillon, while the Coastal Region white is a blend of 90% Sauvignon Blanc and 10% Sémillon. The Bordeaux Blanc is a also a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. The single varietal wines are fairly straightforward, led by a lovely Sancerre that is made with 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Other wines not-very-common to Ontario include a Grenache Blanc, a Falanghina, and a 2013 Marsanne.

Both of my rosé wine picks are dry rosés, with the version from Argentina a blend of 60% Malbec and 40% Pinot Noir, while the Sancerre Rosé is made with 100% Pinot Noir.

Enjoy my wine recommendations from this Release! Cheers!

Red Wine:

• QUARISA MRS Q McLAREN VALE SHIRAZ 2017 - McLaren Vale, South Australia (#12909) (XD) - $18.95  89 pts  wine review
• CARPINETO CHIANTI CLASSICO 2018 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#356048) (XD) - $19.95
• CHÂTEAU PAUL MAS CLOS DES MÛRES 2018 - Sustainable, AP Languedoc, France (#286393) (XD) - $19.95
• VIÑA COBOS FELINO CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019 - Unfined, Mendoza, Argentina (#132365) (XD) - $19.95  89 pts  wine review
• GABRIEL MEFFRE LA CHÂSSE GRANDE RÉSERVE 2016 - AP Vacqueyras, Rhône, France (#15455) (XD) - $19.95
• TONEL 78 BARREL SELECT MALBEC / BONARDA 2017 - Mendoza, Argentina (#17380) (XD) - $23.95  VOE  90 pts  wine review
• WAKEFIELD JARAMAN SHIRAZ 2019 - Clare Valley & McLaren Vale, South Australia (#377036) (XD) - $24.95  89 pts  wine review
• BORGODANGELO TAURASI 2013 - DOCG, Campania, Italy (#96792) (XD) - $24.95
• TORBRECK OLD VINES GRENACHE / SHIRAZ / MOURVÈDRE 2017 - Barossa Valley, South Australia (#10223) (XD) - $24.95  VOE  90+ pts  wine review
• DURIGUTTI PROYECTO LAS COMPUERTAS CINCO SUELOS MALBEC 2018 - Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina (#12670) (XD) - $29.95  92 pts  wine review
• ATTILIO GHISOLFI BUSSIA BAROLO 2017 - DOCG, Piedmont, Italy (#382796) (XD) - $56.95  VOE

White Wine:

• CHÂTEAU BELLES EAUX LES COTEAUX GRENACHE BLANC 2020 - AP Languedoc, France (#18665) (XD) - $14.95
• AVONDALE JONTY'S DUCKS PEKIN WHITE 2018 - WO Paarl, South Africa (#439554) (XD) - $16.95
• IL POGGIO TABURNO FALANGHINA DEL SANNIO 2018 - DOP, Campania, Italy (#17695) (XD) - $16.95  89 pts  wine review
• LES HAUTS DE LAGARDE BLANC 2020 - Vegan, AC Bordeaux, France (#387787) (XD) - $17.95
• CATENA APPELLATION TUPUNGATO CHARDONNAY 2019 - Tupungato, Mendoza, Argentina (#10964) (XD) - $19.95  90 pts  wine review
• SPIER CREATIVE BLOCK 2 2019 - Vegan, sustainable, WO Coastal Region, South Africa (#307827) (XD) - $19.95
• TAHBILK MUSEUM RELEASE MARSANNE 2013 - Sustainable, Nagambie Lakes, Central Victoria, Australia (#276980) (D) - $19.95
• 13TH STREET JUNE'S VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2019 - VQA Creek Shores, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#236745) (XD) - $21.95  89 pts  wine review
• JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE MARNES ET CAILLOTTES SANCERRE 2019 - AC, Loire, France (#196667) (XD) - $31.95  VOE  92+ pts  wine review

Rosé Wine:

• SUSANA BALBO SIGNATURE ROSÉ 2020 - Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina (#493130) (XD) - $22.95
• JEAN-MAX ROGER LA GRANGE DÎMIÈRE SANCERRE ROSÉ 2020 - AC, Loire, France (#490813) (XD) - $26.95  90+ pts  wine review
  

Sparkling Wine:

• DE CHANCENY BRUT CRÉMANT DE LOIRE - Traditional method, AC, Loire, France (#515262) (D) - $19.95

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Catena Appellation Tupungato Chardonnay 2019 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, high-altitude Chardonnay that arrives at the LCBO this weekend as part of the August 7th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is crafted by Catena Zapata, a family with a long winemaking history that goes back more than 100 years. Today, the company that helped pioneer high-altitude viticulture in Argentina is led by the 4th generation of the family, Dr. Laura Catena, with talented Winemaker Alejandro Vigil also in the fold.

Like the 2018 Catena Appellation Agrelo Cabernet Sauvignon I enjoyed earlier this year, this lovely white wine is from Catena's Appellations Series of wines. Similar to what we see in Burgundy and other old world wine regions, each wine in this series gets their name from the village that surrounds these beautiful, historic vineyards.

This particular Chardonnay is from the Tupungato Appellation, a thin band of land in the northern Uco Valley that stretches out from the Andes. More than 20 years ago, Nicolás Catena Zapata began cultivating Chardonnay at their family vineyards in Tupungato at the foothills of the Andes mountains between 1,200 and 1,500 metres (4,000 and 5,000 feet) altitude, where the soils are pebble-covered and nights are extremely cool. In fact, due to Chardonnay's great success in the region, 59% of the vineyard surface in Tupungato is now planted to the varietal.

This Chardonnay is from Catena's Tupungato Vineyard at 1,450 metres (4,750 feet) above sea-level. The soils here are of alluvial origin with gravel, limestone, and sandy loam, with rounded rocks laying underneath. During vinification, it spent 9 months in contact with lees and was aged in 100% French oak. Let's see how this Chardonnay from Tupungato is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CATENA APPELLATION TUPUNGATO CHARDONNAY 2019 - Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina (#10964) (XD) - $19.95
The medium-high intensity nose is rich with lemon citrus and minerals, accented with apple, pear, and subtle vanilla aromas. The medium-full bodied palate has good weight to the fruit, with lovely flavours of citrus, apple, and mineral with touches of toasty vanilla, nut, and saline adding complexity. There's a fine chalky mineral texture on the mid-palate, along with fresh acidity, while the long, balanced finish delivers mineral, apple, and citrus notes. Highly recommended buy. Score: 90 pts

There are many lovely wines from the Catena portfolio available at the LCBO, as well as others through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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