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  • Date publishedTuesday, July 18, 2023

Hidden Bench Locust Lane Rosé 2022 (Niagara) - Wine Review

rosé wine review is a lovely organic and dry rosé from Niagara that arrived at the LCBO last month as part of the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Hidden Bench Estate Winery, one of the top wineries in the Niagara Peninsula. Hidden Bench was founded in 2003 by Harald Thiel and family with a dedication to artisanal, terroir-focused, and premium wines using grapes from their own, organic, estate vineyards situated within the sup-appellation of VQA Beamsville Bench in Niagara, Ontario. With a non-interventionist, quality-focused, and terroir-driven approach, Hidden Bench has long-established an ongoing reputation for excellence both domestically and internationally.

The Beamsville Bench is home to many of the best wines produced in Ontario. Much of this success is attributed to the limestone-rich, clay-based, and glacial till soils - all three of Hidden Bench's estate vineyards are situated on these soils and allow them to produce complex, mineral-driven wines that are old-world in style, age worthy, and have a definitive sense of place. The three estate vineyards are farmed for low yields using organic and biodynamic practices to produce approximately 120,000 bottles of wine with pronounced complexity and character which bear a sense of place and time.

Hidden Bench also employs the latest technologies to enhance the viticultural and winemaking processes, while respecting their traditional non-interventionist winemaking style. As stewards of the land, Hidden Bench has also embraced sustainability as they apply Procert certified organic and sustainable best practices in the vineyard, at the winery, and the marketing of their wines to reduce their environmental footprint on the land, and impact on their neighbours, and society as a whole.

I've had the pleasure of tasting many wines over the years from Hidden Bench, and their passion is always on full display as they embrace a whole-team approach that is founded upon a shared, ongoing passion for excellence, as well as a contagious enthusiasm. Their ongoing and uncompromising attention to detail distinguishes and differentiates their wines and winery from their contemporaries.

Having tasted this rosé wine several times in the past, I know that the exact composition changes with each vintage. For the 2022 vintage, this dry rosé is composed of 88% Pinot Noir, 6% Viognier, and 6% Chardonnay. All of the grapes were grown organically on the estate and crafted using a combination of both "direct to press" and "saignée" techniques. As this blend is predominantly Pinot Noir, the elegance of whole-cluster pressed Pinot Noir, combined with a small percentage of the richer saignée portion, provides a unique complexity to the finished wine, while both portions were fermented in neutral French oak and aged for 5 months prior to racking and blending.

The 2022 vintage began with cold temperatures in January, with overnight lows close to -21°C. This cold snap caused some primary bud damage, and was partially responsible for a 25% reduction in grape yields compared to their historical average. Spring brought better weather with seasonal temperatures and minimal precipitation. Flowering started earlier than normal, while the berry set was complete by late June. Summer was moderate and dry, with seasonal rainfall. The main challenge in the vineyard was managing disease pressures, which were the result of high humidity from June through August. Disease pressure was reduced by keeping the fruit clean through timely leaf removal, crop thinning, and a disciplined and timely organic spray program. Veraison began in early August and was completed towards the middle of the month, while harvest began in the middle of September and lasted until mid-to-late October. Hidden Bench was blessed with consistent and favourable weather during harvest, which allowed them to choose pick dates based on flavour and ripeness.

It is often said, particularly in Niagara, that the quality of the vintage is determined by the weather in September and October. Overall, Hidden Bench was pleased with the quality of the harvested fruit, albeit in smaller-than-normal quantities. It is expected that the 2022 vintage is excellent across the board with wines that will truly showcase the terroir of the Beamsville Bench in Niagara. Let's see how this 2022 rosé from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Hidden Bench Locust Lane Rosé 2022 (91+ pts)

Tasting Note:

HIDDEN BENCH LOCUST LANE ROSÉ 2022 - Sustainable, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#68833) (XD) - $24.95
This organic rosé is blend of 88% Pinot Noir, 6% Viognier, and 6% Chardonnay. The deep and intense nose offers lovely, complex aromas of grapefruit, citrus, orange, stony minerals, and floral accented with strawberry, melon, watermelon, and peach. It's medium+ bodied on the dry, lightly honeyed palate with fresh, juicy acidity supporting grapefruit, citrus, strawberry, watermelon, melon, orange, mineral, and floral flavours. Slightly viscous mouthfeel on the mid-palate. It's nicely balanced with pleasing mineral, grapefruit, and citrus flavours that are joined by spicy notes on the long, crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

Many other lovely wines from the fine portfolio of Hidden Bench Estate Winery can be purchased through the LCBO, their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits, or direct from the winery in Niagara.


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  • Date publishedSunday, July 16, 2023

Tedeschi Capitel Nicalò Valpolicella Superiore 2020 (Veneto) - Wine Review

red wine review is the latest vintage of a lovely Valpolicella Superiore that arrived at the LCBO last month as part of the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on .

It is produced by Azienda Agricola Tedeschi, also known as Tedeschi Wines, a prominent family-owned winery situated in the Valpolicella region, within Veneto in northeastern Italy. Founded in 1630, Tedeschi has a long and rich history in winemaking spanning over four centuries. Considered one of the leading wineries in Valpolicella, Tedeschi is also a pioneer in crafting cru wines from the region. Tedeschi Winery has been passed down through the generations within the family while having a strong commitment to quality winemaking and respect for traditional winemaking methods.

Today, Tedeschi is a renowned and respected producer of Amarone and other wines from Valpolicella. The winemaking philosophy at Tedeschi is based on patience - to wait for the amount of time required both in the vineyard and in the winery - and dedication - to carefully attend to details and have the appropriate attitude towards the raw materials, while striving to combine long-held family traditions with innovative research, experimentation, and production methods. Their profound attention to detail in the vineyard includes research to uncover the perfect interaction between the characteristics of the soil, micro-climate, sun exposure, selecting the most appropriate varietals, and the cultivation system. The resulting wines are elegant and endowed with marked personality, revealing the richness, tastes and aromas that are typical of the earth that have always characterized their production and identity. Tedeschi has always respected the environment and is certified sustainable according to the standards of Biodiversity Friend and Equalitas.

Like the 2019 Tedeschi Capitel Nicalò Valpolicella Superiore that I enjoyed a couple of years ago, this vintage continues to be a blend of 35% Corvina, 35% Corvinone, 20% Rondinella, and 10% Rossignola / Oseleta / Negrara / Dindarella. The grapes were grown in the Moraine Hills, where the soils are moraine clay and limestone of moraine origin, in the heart of Valpolicella and vinified in the Veronese tradition of drying the grapes. By placing the grapes in crates for about one month, the grapes undergo partial dehydration, losing about 8-10% of their weight. This natural process results in water loss while enriching the sugar content of the grapes, their dry extract, and the colour of
the wine.

After harvesting the grapes, they were dried for one month and then underwent maceration and both alcoholic and malolactic fermentation. The wine was aged in Slavonian oak barrels for 12 to 18 months, and underwent further ageing for 6 months in bottle. The wine is named after their ancestor, Niccolò, and is crafted to be pleasing for all gastronomic delights. From a good vintage that is better than the 2019 vintage, let's see how this 2020 Valpolicella Superiore is tasting tonight...

Tedeschi Capitel Nicalò Valpolicella Superiore 2020 (90 pts)

Tasting Note:

TEDESCHI CAPITEL NICALÒ VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE 2020 - Sustainable, DOC, Veneto, Italy (#984997) (XD) - $19.95
Blend of 35% Corvina, 35% Corvinone, 20% Rondinella, and 10% Rossignola / Oseleta / Negrara / Dindarella. The clean, fresh, and fragrant nose offers an attractive mix of savoury earth, leafy herbs, black and dark red cherry, and fine spice aromas, plus some dried fruit, and red plum nuances adding further complexity. It's medium-full bodied on the dry palate with fresh, juicy, and tangy lemony acidity lifting the dark cherry fruited, savoury earth, fine spices, cedary oak, and mocha flavours. Supple, dusty textured tannins are smooth and refined. Tangy and dry with dark berry, earth, and wood spice notes lingering on the long, juicy, and well-balanced finish. Enjoyable now and over the next 4-5 years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

With a fairly large portfolio, some wines by Tedeschi are available at the LCBO, while the entire range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.


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  • Date publishedWednesday, July 12, 2023

Alois Lageder Terra Alpina Pinot Grigio 2022 (Alto Adige) - Wine Review

white wine review is the latest vintage of a lovely, organic Pinot Grigio from northern Italy. A perennial favourite of mine, this latest vintage arrived at the LCBO last month as part of the feature on "Summer Sippers" in the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and is readily available to buy now.

Terra Alpina wines are produced by Alois Lageder Winery, an historic family winery that was founded in 1823 and is located in Alto Adige in northern Italy. The long and rich history of the Lageder family and wine began in 1823 when the young craftsman Johann Lageder set himself up as a wine merchant in Bolzano. Beginning in 1934, his successors purchased vineyards to produce their own wines and, today, Alois Lageder is in the hands of the sixth generation of the family.

The project of Terra Alpina was initiated by the Lageder family as part of their initiative to collaborate with growers and neighbouring communities to produce high-quality wines that reflect their unique origin - the Dolomites - a mountain range located in northeastern Italy. The foothills of the Dolomite range offer both a cool Alpine and warm Mediterranean influence that allows the region to craft fresh, precise, and expressive wines which are also influenced by the prevalent Dolomitic limestone in the soil. With the Lageder family's centuries of experience and holistic understanding of nature, they are able to select the best terroirs and the optimal exploitation of the special climatic, geological, and topographic conditions in the area to produce exceptional wines.

Organic and biodynamic viticulture is top of mind at Alois Lageder as all of their own vineyards are farmed according to biodynamic principles. The Lageder family works with approximately 80 contract grape growers and share their knowledge and experience with partners from other regions, encouraging, motivating, and supporting them to convert to organic or biodynamic farming. Together with their partners, the Lageder family works in a way that responds to nature with great care, curiosity, and respect.

The grapes for this Pinot Grigio were grown in selected areas in the Dolomiti area at an altitude between 220 to 350 metres above sea level. These vineyards are planted on mostly Dolomitic limestone and volcanic porphyry soils, and experience a fairly cool meso-climate with great variations between day and night temperatures. The vines range between 14 and 34 years old. It was fermented using selected yeasts in stainless steel tanks, followed by maturation on fine lees for at least four months.

The 2022 growing season in Alto Adige yielded extraordinary whites due to the hot summer. The region experienced record-high temperatures as early as May, causing fast and early blossoming, including at higher altitudes. The hot and dry weather conditions continued into June, July, and August, leading to an early harvest. The white varieties did surprisingly well, turning out unusually powerful, but still fresh and fruity. It is expected that the classic characteristics of Alto Adige white wines will be preserved, even in such an exceptional year. Let's see how this 2022 Pinot Grigio from Alto Adige is tasting tonight...

Alois Lageder Terra Alpina Pinot Grigio 2022 (91 pts)

Tasting Note:

ALOIS LAGEDER TERRA ALPINA PINOT GRIGIO 2022 - IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti, Alto Adige, Italy (#681429) (XD) - $20.95
Screw cap enclosure. This organic Pinot Grigio has a bright, highly aromatic nose that is fresh, clean, and crisp with lovely ripe lemon citrus, white peach, and honeysuckle aromas accented with stony minerals and touches of herbal and white spice notes. It's medium-full bodied and quite concentrated on the dry, ripe palate with delicious white peach, lemon, citrus, grapefruit, white pepper spice, and leesy mineral flavours. It has crisp, juicy acidity, and exceptionally long on the juicy, balanced, lemon, white peach, and leesy mineral flavoured finish. Highly recommended buy from a great vintage! Score: 91 pts

Many other lovely wines by Alois Lageder can be ordered through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.


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  • Date publishedMonday, July 10, 2023

Rocca delle Macìe Famiglia Zingarelli Riserva Chianti Classico 2019 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

After enjoying the delicious 2017 Rocca delle Macìe Famiglia Zingarelli Riserva Chianti Classico nearly three years ago, red wine review is the latest edition (and from a very good vintage!) to arrive recently at the LCBO as part of last month's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Rocca delle Macìe, a family-owned winery that was established in 1973 by Italian film producer Italo Zingarelli to fulfill a lifelong dream. Italo Zingarelli acquired the 85 hectare "Le Macìe" estate, of which only 2 hectares were planted to vine, and quickly grew the estate into one of the most popular names in Italian winemaking. Rocca della Macìe is located in the heart of Tuscany, near the town of Castellina in Chianti, with the estate having grown to an expansive area of approximately 600 hectares, with approximately 200 hectares dedicated to vineyards. The vineyards are situated at various altitudes, allowing for the cultivation of various grape varieties, but mainly Sangiovese, that thrive in the region's diverse micro-climates and terroirs.

Today, Rocca della Macìe is run by Italo's son, Sergio, and has become one of the most prominent wine producers in the Chianti region by creating wines that not only respect the terroir, but also through a deep commitment to improving wine quality through innovation while remaining rooted in tradition. The wines are crafted to reflect the unique characteristics of the terroir, while showcasing the aromas and flavours of the Tuscan countryside. The winery also follows sustainable agricultural practices and places a strong emphasis on preserving the natural balance of the environment.

Like the previous vintage, this edition is also composed of 90% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Merlot. Bearing the Zingarelli family name, this red wine is the flagship wine of the zone and represents the greatest expression of the zone's particular features while highlighting the strong link that the family has to the area of Chianti Classico. It is proudly crafted using the best grapes from the four estates of Rocca delle Macìe in the area of Castellina in Chianti, representing the synthesis of four distinctive terroirs. The grapes were carefully selected and vinified according to traditional Chianti Classico methods. It was aged in French oak barrels for two years, and further refined in bottle for at least three months.

Although it is somewhat difficult to generalize a growing season in Chianti Classico, the 2019 vintage was, by many accounts, a very good-to-excellent vintage. The growing season was fairly even throughout, as it was quite dry with no humidity. The grape quantity and quality is very high, with many producers enjoying a very late harvest that is typically preferred for Sangiovese. The resulting wines this year tend to have well-balanced acidity and tannins, as well as a nicely balanced texture and excellent aromas. Let's see how this 2019 Riserva Chianti Classico is tasting tonight...

Rocca delle Macìe Famiglia Zingarelli Riserva Chianti Classico 2019 (90+ pts)

Tasting Note:

ROCCA DELLE MACÌE FAMIGLIA ZINGARELLI RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2019 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#930966) (XD) - $25.95
Blend of 90% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Merlot. The rich, complex, medium-high intensity nose has perfumed and spicy aromas layered over dark berry, cherry, blackberry, and forest floor with hints of plum, dried herb, dried cherry, and floral adding complexity. It's medium-full bodied and slightly chewy on the palate with elegant, gently grippy tannins and juicy, well-balanced acidity. Lovely dark red cherry, clove, forest floor, and cedary wood spice flavours, plus some tangy notes on the mid-palate. Nicely balanced throughout with savoury forest floor and cocoa notes, plus a touch of mineral lingering on the long, succulent finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 4-5 years. Score: 90+ pts

Many other lovely wines by Rocca delle Macìe are available at the LCBO, as well as through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.


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  • Date publishedMonday, July 10, 2023

July 8, 2023 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: Online & Flagship Exclusives

LCBO Wine Picks: July 8, 2023 VINTAGES New Release Collection
Here's my top wine picks from the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, which is this month's Online & Flagship Exclusives release. These wines are available exclusively on LCBO.com and the 10 Flagship stores in Ontario, and are ready to be purchased now.

With more than half of the forty-six wines in this release comprised of white wines and most of my recommendation being this colour, we'll begin with my top white wine recommendations. There is only one blend among my white wine picks - a Bordeaux Blanc that is composed of 73% Sauvignon Blanc and 27% Semillon. Single varietal wines include a trio of fine Chardonnays - one each from Burgundy (Chablis), Oregon, and South Africa, as well as an Arneis from Piedmont, a Pecorino from Abruzzo, and an Assyrtiko from Greece. For Riesling wine lovers, the wines from New York and Rheingau are both dry in style, while the Riesling from Niagara is crafted in an off-dry (i.e. slightly sweet) style.

Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret Fourchaume Chablis 1er Cru 2021 (93 pts)Rex Hill Seven Soils Chardonnay 2019 (92 pts)

Cape of Good Hope Serruria Chardonnay 2019Umani Ronchi Centovie Pecorino 2020 (92 pts)

Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Riesling 2020 (92 pts)Forge Classique Dry Riesling 2020 (90 pts)

Among my top red wine picks, the only blend is from Languedoc and it is composed of Syrah and Carignan. Also among my picks are a pair of wines made with relatively unknown varietals - the País grape is a varietal that has played a prominent role in the Chilean wine industry up until the 21st century, while the Refosco comes from a very old family of dark-skinned grapes native to Veneto and surrounding regions, with some of the best examples coming from Colli Orientali in nearby Friuli. The last two red wines are both fantastic and made with Pinot Noir - one is from New Zealand, while the other is from Oregon.

Greystone Pinot Noir 2018 (93 pts)Rex Hill Pinot Noir 2019 (91 pts)

Le Vigne di Zamó Il Refosco 2018 (90+ pts)

Enjoy my top wine recommendations from this release! Cheers!

Red Wine:

  • GÉRARD BERTRAND AN 873 SYRAH/CARIGNAN 2019 - AP Minervois, Languedoc, France (#952804) (XD) - $19.95
  • COPA PAÍS 2019 - DO Valle de Itata, Chile (#31000) (XD) - $29.95
  • LE VIGNE DI ZAMÓ IL REFOSCO 2018 - DOC Collio Orientali del Friuli, Italy (#105882) (XD) - $32.95  90+ pts  wine review
  • GREYSTONE PINOT NOIR 2018 - Waipara Valley, North Canterbury, South Island, New Zealand (#30151) (XD) - $33.95  93 pts  wine review
  • REX HILL PINOT NOIR 2019 - Sustainable, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA (#275735) (XD) - $45.95  91 pts  wine review

White Wine:

  • PAOLO CONTERNO A VAL ARNEIS 2021 - DOC Langhe, Piedmont, Italy (#30273) (XD) - $24.95
  • UMANI RONCHI CENTOVIE PECORINO 2020 - IGT Colli Aprutini, Abruzzo, Italy (#11108) (XD) - $29.95  92 pts  wine review
  • CAPE OF GOOD HOPE SERRURIA CHARDONNAY 2019 - WO Elandskloof, South Africa (#667196) (XD) - $30.95
  • FORGE CLASSIQUE DRY RIESLING 2020 - Seneca Lake, Finger Lakes, New York, USA (#32734) (XD) - $34.95  90 pts  wine review
  • REX HILL SEVEN SOILS CHARDONNAY 2019 - Sustainable, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA (#458158) (XD) - $39.95  92 pts  wine review
  • LANTIDES ABYSS ASSYRTIKO 2020 - PGI Peloponnese, Greece (#33161) (XD) - $39.95
  • CHÂTEAU GRAND VILLAGE BLANC 2021 - AC Bordeaux, France (#25084) (XD) - $42.95
  • DOMDECHANT WERNER HOCHHEIMER KIRCHENSTÜCK TROCKEN RIESLING 2019 - VDP Erste Lage, Rheingau, Germany (#32155) (XD) - $43.95
  • CHARLES BAKER PICONE VINEYARD RIESLING 2020 - Sustainable, VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#241182) (D) - $44.95  92 pts  wine review
  • DOMAINE YVON & LAURENT VOCORET FOURCHAUME CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2021 - AC, Burgundy, France (#22776) (XD) - $52.95  93 pts  wine review


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  • Date publishedSaturday, July 8, 2023

Luna Estate Pinot Noir 2019 (New Zealand) - Wine Review

red wine review is this lovely Pinot Noir from Martinborough in New Zealand that arrived at the LCBO last month in the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Luna Estate, a winery that was established in 2000 and is situated in the beautiful Wairarapa wine region, in the southern part of the North Island in New Zealand. Luna Estate is named after the moon because of its unifying qualities - because it doesn't matter where you are on the planet, we all see the same moon. At the heart of the operation is their sustainable and organic principles, which drive the farming process, while in the winery they let the grapes do the talking. Luna Estate looks after their land and soils, employing regenerative and organic farming principles and practices across both of their vineyards, eliminating the need for harmful herbicides and pesticides in their ecosystems, because better and cleaner farming is good for all of us.

Two vineyards make up Luna Estate. The Eclipse Vineyard, which is tended to organically, lies in the heart of the terrace on Puruatanga Road, where planting began in 1992 with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines that now form the core of Luna's higher-tier bottlings. While these vineyards are relatively new, they owe gratitude to government scientists in the 1970s who suggested that the climate, combined with an ancient rocky riverbed to the east of the village, might make Martinborough a suitable place for winegrowing. Pioneers experimented by planting several grape varieties over the years and determined that Pinot Noir fared very well, leading to justifications now that Martinborough is among the top Pinot Noir grape growing regions on the planet.

The Blue Rock Vineyard is their north-facing, hillside vineyard with silty clay loams interspersed with ancient marine sediment soils, located approximately 12 km south of Martinborough on Dry River Road. Planting at Blue Rock began in 1986, with some of the vines still producing grapes today. This vineyard is also in the process of converting to full organic practices.

This 100% Pinot Noir is crafted using only estate grown fruit that was harvested from their Eclipse and Blue Rock vineyards, with the majority coming from younger vines growing on the clay/limestone hillside of the Blue Rock Vineyard. All of the fruit is de-stemmed and gently transferred into 6 ton open-top temperature-controlled stainless steel fermenters. After the fruit is chilled down and held for a 5-6 day cold soak to aid in colour and flavour extraction, the cooling is turned off and a temperature-controlled fermentation begins. The total maceration time was between 15–30 days before gentle pressing. It was matured in oak for 10 months, then bottled with minimal fining and gentle filtration, without the use of any animal products throughout the entire process.

The 2019 vintage began with winter arriving late and a cold and wet August and September, as well as a catastrophic frost in late spring which resulted in heavy losses across the region. Their Eclipse vineyard was struck across the blocks closest to the terrace edge, with losses estimated at around 30%. Spring was very challenging with high rainfall in November impacting the flowering stage, significantly reducing crop levels and making the vineyard work extremely difficult. Summer was hot and relatively dry, while harvest was early again with perfect weather for picking. In spite of the challenges, the quality of the fruit harvested was excellent, albeit in small quantities.

After enjoying the lovely 2016 Luna Estate Pinot Noir a couple of years ago, let's see how this latest vintage of Pinot Noir from NZ is tasting tonight...

Luna Estate Pinot Noir 2019 (91+ pts)

Tasting Note:

LUNA ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2019 - Sustainable, Martinborough, North Island, New Zealand (#17544) (XD) - $27.95
Screw cap. The fragrant, highly aromatic nose is rich and spicy with attractive aromas of black and red cherry, strawberry, beetroot, and earth, plus hints of tea leaf and dried herbs. It's light-to-mid weighted on the palate with light, fine-grained tannins and juicy acidity that supports the black and red cherry, strawberry, spices, stony mineral, and earth flavours complementing each other quite nicely. It's well-balanced and nicely composed throughout. Pleasing chalky textured mouthfeel on the mid-palate, while stony mineral and spicy notes linger on the long, juicy, and savoury finish. Will drink well over the next 3-4 years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

Limited quantities of other Luna Estate wines are available at the LCBO, while the entire portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.


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  • Date publishedWednesday, June 28, 2023

Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Marnes et Caillottes Sancerre 2021 and La Grange Dîmière Sancerre Rosé 2022 (Loire) - Wine Reviews

Jean-Max Roger La Grange Dîmière Sancerre Rosé 2022 (XX pts) and Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Marnes et Caillottes Sancerre 2021 (93 pts)
wine reviews are a pair of excellent wines from Sancerre in the Loire Valley that arrived at the LCBO over the weekend as part of the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Both of these wines are produced by Jean-Max Roger, a renowned producer from Sancerre in the Loire Valley, and is easily my favourite producer from the region. The Roger family comes from a long-line of winegrowers from the village of Bué, a commune within the Sancerre appellation and located to the west and a little to the south of the town of Sancerre. The Roger family name was first mentioned in the 17th century and up until the 1960s practiced mixed farming, which included animal rearing.

Jean-Max took over the family estate of 4 hectares of vines in the 1970s and, together with his wife, Nicole, developed the vineyards and estate. Under his guidance, the winery experienced significant growth and gained recognition for producing exceptional Sancerre wines. Jean-Max Roger is focused on crafting high-quality wines that reflect the unique terroir of Sancerre, which is renowned for its chalky limestone soils and cool climate.

Today, the estate is still operated by Jean-Max Roger and his wife. However, their passion and love for wine was transferred to both of their sons, and in 2004 both Thibault and Etienne joined the family estate. The brothers complement each other, perpetuating the family's know-how and techniques to improve their wines with each passing vintage. With a family estate that has grown to 28 hectares of vines in the Sancerre appellation and 6 hectares in Menetou-Salon, and with more than 40 plots that offer an exceptional diversity of exposure, slope, and soil profiles, this allows the Roger family to use their winemaking expertise to allow each wine to express all of the uniqueness of the terroirs through the wines structure, elegance, and finesse. Jean-Max Roger also maintains a sustainable approach to viticulture which helps preserve the vines and terroir, while not compromising on the production of top-quality grapes. The winery has also expanded over the years to include modern equipment, and combined with new techniques while respecting traditions, Jean-Max Roger is able to craft their wines under optimal conditions.

With vineyard management, Jean-Max Roger produces grapes to reveal its terroir. The vines are tended to using organic principles and working the deep soil to revitalize soil life. By using the Guyot Poussard pruning method, the result is better balance of the stock. They also perform spring disbudding to control yields, while using mechanical weed control which respects soil life. At the winery, Jean-Max Roger aims to produce wines reflecting the fruitiness and density of the vintage. The grapes are pneumatically pressed upon arriving at the winery, and cold settled for between 48 and 72 hours which helps protect deterioration of aromas, while also eliminating vegetal fragments and dust. The wines undergo a long, temperature-controlled fermentation using natural yeasts, which helps develop aromatic complexity, and follows with ageing on heavy lees to develop minerality. After fining and filtration, which helps stabilize the aromas and wine, it is bottled at the estate using their own facilities.

While the 2021 vintage was a good, but tricky vintage, the 2022 vintage was very good and referred to as possibly the best in the last 30 years. Having enjoyed previous editions of these wines such as the 2020 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Marnes et Caillottes Sancerre and the 2020 Jean-Max Roger La Grange Dîmière Sancerre Rosé, I would expect similar, if not better quality levels this time around. Let's see how this Sancerre Rosé and Sancerre Blanc wines from Loire Valley is tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE MARNES ET CAILLOTTES SANCERRE 2021 - AC, Loire, France (#196667) (XD) - $38.95
100% Sauvignon Blanc from 5 to 40 year-old vines grown in the villages of Bué & Amigny on Kimmeridgian Marls (Marnes) and Limestone (Caillottes) soils. Fresh, fragrant, and highly aromatic on the perfumed nose with spring flowers, lemon/lime citrus, herbs, and freshly cut grass aromas with a fine, flinty mineral underpinning. It's nicely textured on the medium+ bodied palate with fresh, lively acidity lifting the clean and ripe lemon/lime citrus, spring flower, herbs, and stony mineral flavours, plus some spicy notes on the mid-palate. It's nicely balanced throughout with a pleasantly chalky textured mouthfeel on the back palate. Lovely lemon/lime citrus and dried herbal notes taper to an exceptionally long, leesy mineral finish. My favourite in the portfolio and a highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Marnes et Caillottes Sancerre 2021 (93 pts)

JEAN-MAX ROGER LA GRANGE DÎMIÈRE SANCERRE ROSÉ 2022 - AC, Loire, France (#490813) (XD) - $31.95
100% Pinot Noir grown on flint, Kimmeridgian marls & Limestone, Silex, Terres Blanches & Caillottes' soils from vines between 25 to 45 years old. The medium+ intensity nose is clean and fresh and red berry, strawberry, cherry, grapefruit, and citrus, and blood orange aromas underpinned by fine mineral notes. On the medium+ bodied palate it is dry, ripe, and lightly honeyed with lovely mineral, grapefruit, blood orange, red berry, strawberry, and cherry flavour replays. It has clean, succulent, and well-balanced acidity, along with a pleasant, chalky textured mouthfeel. Lightly spicy on the mid-palate, while mineral notes linger on the long finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Jean-Max Roger La Grange Dîmière Sancerre Rosé 2022 (91 pts)

While a couple of other lovely wines by Jean-Max Roger can be found at the LCBO, the entire portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.


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