Vincent de la Remondière Les Fourchaume Chablis 1er Cru 2020 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is an excellent Chardonnay from the Chablis Premier Cru vineyards of Fourchaume in Burgundy. This white wine is a new arrival in the recent December 2nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and is a Fine Wine for Festive Entertaining.

It is produced by Maison Vincent de la Remondière, a winery that epitomizes the elegance of the very fine wines of Bourgogne and Beaujolais. While they are deeply attached to the region, they defy local convention in the ways they produce and market their wines.

The philosophy at Vincent de la Remondière begins with their belief that great wines are not made from the fruit of mere happenstance - the wines are intrinsically shaped by the extremely favourable winegrowing conditions of the iconic region of Bourgogne. They seek out the very finest plots to produce their wines - superb terroirs and locations that are well-kept secrets in Bourgogne and Beaujolais - a playground, if you will, for creating fine wines. Vincent de la Remondière likes to see himself as an artist who creates wines like a composer creating a symphony, while leaving wines the room to find their perfect balance, naturally, and also teasing out the aromas. The goal is to bring out the real character of the terroir to the fore, while also adding a hint of daring and dash. The wines are hidden away in the cellars to develop tremendous complexity, while also noted for being generous, well-structured, delicate, sensual, and elegant. At Vincent de la Remondière, the spirit of being daring lies at the heart of everything they do on a day-to-day basis and is reflected in their wines, from vineyard to bottle, including the aesthetics of the bottle label designs.

Inspired by tradition, Vincent de la Remondière is part of the Bourgogne landscape. He is a great lover of the local area and never gets tired of looking out over his vines. Although he has great respect for tradition, he doesn't rule out having a new vision for the future by always thinking outside the box, wondering how things could be done differently (and better), and how things can be moved forward. The approach of Vincent de la Remondière is always about keeping an open mind, especially on new ways of doing things, keeping an eye out for the latest technological advances, and being on-trend.

Maison Vincent de la Remondière produces wines from several appellations in Burgundy (and Beaujolais), with the Premier Cru appellation wines focused around Pinot Noir, Bourgogne's ancestral grape, and Chardonnay, the star of Bourgogne. Premier Cru wines come from vineyards that are classified with an appellation of the Burgundy vineyard. It is noteworthy that only 10% of the wines from the region are classified as Premier Cru, making them somewhat rare, and Vincent de la Remondière crafts five Premier Cru wines, including this Fourchaume Chablis Premier Cru. All five Premier Cru wines at Remondière are made using traditional Bourgogne winemaking techniques and aged between 9 and 12 months in barrels, with about 20% to 30% new barrels. The wines are powerful, elegant, and focused, while also bringing out the sophisticated side of the terroir and bursting with personality.

This white wine is 100% Chardonnay crafted with fruit grown in Fourchaume, one of the best known, and largest, Premier Cru vineyards in Chablis. The main feature of wines from Chablis is the geology - the Kimmeridgian limestone soil that was laid down some 150 million years ago. This rock contains deposits of tiny fossilized oyster shells, which reminds us that Burgundy once lay beneath a warm ocean, flavours which are often transmitted through the vine and into the wine. Premier Cru vineyards lie on either side of the River Serein, which runs through vineyards from the south to north, but the most highly thought of Premier Cru vineyards are on the Right Bank of the river, where Fourchaume is also situated.

The 2020 growing season in Burgundy began with an unusually mild winter, followed by a balmy spring. Although there were some bouts of frost in Chablis, consistent warm weather prevailed into an unusually warm April. The summer was hot and dry, and became quite arid, with cleansing winds breezing through the vineyards, leading to an earlier harvest. Overall, the 2020 growing season in Burgundy delivered classic wines with perfect balance, nice acidity, and freshness. From this great vintage, let's see how this 2020 Chablis Premier Cru is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

VINCENT DE LA REMONDIÈRE LES FOURCHAUME CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2020 - AC, Burgundy, France (#32956) (XD) - $51.95
100% Chardonnay. The fragrant nose is rich, ripe, intense, and fresh, with lovely aromas of ripe lemon, citrus, apple, and pear layered over earthy-stony minerals, plus wafts of tangy citrus. It has good weight on the dry, medium+ bodied, elegantly structured palate with delicious, lightly honeyed and ripe flavours of lemon citrus, apple, and pear, with touches of hazelnut, mineral, and spice adding interest and complexity. It has a nicely textured mouthfeel on the mid-palate, plus very good, bracing acidity. Classic oyster shell mineral notes linger on the long, saliva-inducing finish, with excellent length. Enjoyable now, but will reward ageing, and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other lovely wines by Vincent de la Remondière can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia / Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Kechris Xinomavro 2020 (Greece) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely single vineyard Xinomavro from northern Greece and a brand-new arrival at the LCBO that landed on shelves across Ontario earlier this month as part of the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on December 2nd.

It is produced by Kechris, a winery whose roots were founded in 1939 when it began producing "Kechribari" retsina wines at their family restaurant, Kokoras, in the old town of Thessaloniki in northern Greece. The Kechris family's reputation for producing high-quality retsina spread rapidly and led to increased demand. In 1954, the four siblings of the Kechris family established a liquor company, E. Kechris Bros., in Kalochori, Thessaloniki. At their modern, state-of-the-art facilities, they continued producing "Kechribari", but also started producing ouzo, brandy and a variety of fruit liqueurs, and by 1974, they began exporting their products to other countries.

In 1984, Stelios Kechris took over the management of the family business and, in the same year, they began producing "Doriki" homemade liqueurs. Although Stelios studied chemistry at the University of Thessaloniki, Greece, he also obtained an Enology degree in 1978 from the University of Dijon, France.

In 1993, Kechris and twelve other winemakers in Macedonia founded the Wine Producers Association of the Macedonian Vineyard, which is now known as the Wine Roads of Northern Greece. This pioneering association aimed to promote its members' standardized Greek wine brands. In 1998, Stelios' daughter, Eleni Kechri, joined the company, and after she completed her studies in Bordeaux, she returned to Greece in 2003 and began applying new and innovative winemaking techniques at Kechris. In 2009, Kechris completed the construction of their brand-new winery, while in 2017 another new building was constructed to house the cooling room, optimize white variety vinification, and other various winemaking functions.

Today, Kechris is based on values defined by their identity. And their identity is defined by their actions. Thus, they try to express their values through their actions, which are based on Tradition In Motion, Quality, Innovation, and Directness. The philosophy at Kechris is multifaceted, linked to their culture and to people. For Kechris, wine is also linked to life itself, as it gives value to life's various moments - bringing us closer and helping us share thoughts and emotions.

The red wine is crafted with 100% Xinomavro that was grown in the PGI Slopes of Paiko zone, which is located in the district of Kilkis, in the northern part of central Macedonia. Mount Paiko rises in the northern parts of the neighbouring districts of Kilkis and Pella, while the PGI Slopes of Paiko zone is situated on the eastern slopes of the mountain, overlooking Kilkis, and covers areas within the municipalities of Goumenissa and Evropos. From grapes produced according to integrated farming practices, the grapes for this wine were picked from selected vineyard plots in Goumenissa, from vines planted on clay loam and rocky soil. After harvesting the grapes late in the growing season in October, they were vinified with long skin contact and matured for 18 months in oak barrels, and bottled without filtering. Let's see how this 2020 Xinomavro from Greece is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

KECHRIS XINOMAVRO 2020 - PGI Slopes of Paiko, Greece (#33262) (XD) - $29.95
Unfiltered, this single vineyard Xinomavro has a medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that offers pretty aromas of dried rose and red cherry, followed by sweet baking spice and cinnamon, plus touches of oak spice and earth. It's medium-full bodied with big, firm, youthful, and drying tannins that play up to the fruit. Lovely dried rose, cherry, cedary wood spice, and cinnamon flavours lead to a juicy, succulent mid-palate. It's well-structured with high, gently tangy acidity. Delicious flavour replays are joined by touches of smoky earth on long, dry finish. Enjoy now with protein (like lamb), or cellar and enjoy into the early 2030's. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Small quantities of other wines by Kechris Winery are available at the LCBO, while the entire range can be ordered through their Agent - Kolonaki Fine Wines & Spirits.

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Château Coufran 2010 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

After enjoying the excellent 2009 Château Coufran last year, tonight's red wine review is the latest edition and from another legendary vintage. This red wine from the Left Bank of Bordeaux arrived at the LCBO as part of the theme on Fine Wines for Festive Entertaining in the December 2nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by the renowed Château Coufran, an estate situated in the Haut-Médoc appellation of Bordeaux, and has a long history going back to the 18th century. While the Château changed hands many times in its earlier years, the most notable exchanges occurred from the late 19th century, when the wine merchants families of Cabarrus and Célérier purchased the estate and invested in the Médoc wine region.

Château Coufran is currently the property of the Miailhe family. It was acquired by Louis Miailhe in 1924 and he was responsible for the current spelling of the estate - the Château was previously known as "Cousran" and "Couffran". Upon acquiring the property, Louis undertook a major redevelopment project in the vineyard, which included planting mainly Merlot - a grape which was more charming and highly appreciated at the time. The Miailhe family were wine brokers in France, dating back to the 19th century and continued to 1970, while winemaking was also in the family with Jean Miailhe, son of Louis, the winemaker at Coufran for a period of time.

Today, it is Jean's two children - Marie Cécile Vicaire and Eric Miailhe - who run the estate. Château Coufran is certified to Certified Environmentally Friendly Agriculture in Aquitaine (AREA) level 2, and High Environmental Value (HVE) level 3. In the vineyard, vegetation cover is encouraged between rows, while leaves are thinned after flowering, and bunches are thinned to allow the fruit to ripen in the best conditions possible. There is great attention to detail during the harvest period to ensure that the harvest quality is optimal, while the sorting of grapes is also nuanced based on quality, terroir, and vine age, among other things. In the winery, the grapes are vinified using traditional Bordeaux techniques, in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. Work in the tanks and maceration is according to the vintage and the desired style of wine. After alcoholic and malolactic fermentation, the blend of the first wine (i.e. their top bottle, which is this wine) is decided on after tasting and selection by their consultant oenologist, Mr Eric Boissenot. By using only a portion of their entire production to create their top wine, they ensure that the atypical grape variety blend they use at Coufran is expressed to the fullest, to produce a great wine that is ideal for aging and ranks among the best in the appellation each year. The wine is then matured in French oak barrels for 12 months, with 25% replaced with new barrels every year. The wine is blended one last time to ensure homogeneity just prior to fining and bottling. The wines are then stored on-premise, in air-conditioned rooms to optimize the ageing process, allowing them to release ready-to-drink wines after being aged in perfect conditions.

This red wine is crafted with 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, a blend which is unique for Left Bank wines that are normally crafted primarily with Cabernet Sauvignon. Located in the village of Saint-Seurin, the property is uniquely known as the Pomerol of Médoc because of the predominance of the Merlot grape variety. Saint-Seurin is located in the canton of Pauillac, within the AOC of Haut-Médoc and borders the commune of Saint-Estephe to the south, running along the river. The average age of the vines is 45 years old, and they are planted across a single 76 -hectare block, on soil that is composed of different types of gravel. To craft this wine, the grapes are fermented in temperature-controlled, stainless steel vats, followed by ageing in tight-grain French oak barrels for 12 months, with 25% renewed each year.

While the 2009 vintage was considered legendary right from the get-go, the 2010 growing season got off to a slow start. However, things picked up in 2010 during the beautiful summer with warm and hot days from June to August, and combined with cool nights that helped preserve fresh acidity. The growing season overall in 2010 was largely cool and dry, producing small, thick-skinned berries with perfect phenolic ripeness, producing wines that were concentrated and expressive, with very fine tannins. The result was yet another legendary vintage that was markedly different from the 2009s, with the 2010s considered classical and structured. Let's see how this 2010 Bordeaux red wine is testing tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU COUFRAN 2010 - AC Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux, France (#325555) (XD) - $43.95
From vines averaging 45 years old, this is a blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. The richly aromatic nose of medium-high to high intensity is fragrant, sweet spiced, and maturing with a lovely bouquet of stewed dark berries and Damson plums, dried floral and cherries, leather, and forest floor. On the full-ish bodied palate it offers maturing flavours of dark berry, red and black cherry, fine sweet spices, some dried cherry and florals, savoury forest floor, and leather. Acids are juicy and succulent, while the fine, dusty textured tannins are structured, and still a few more years away from fully resolving. Intriguing salty and leafy herb notes on the mid-palate. Complex and still evolving, with dried cherry and mineral notes lingering on the long, juicy finish. Wow! Provides immense pleasure now, and should continue to evolve nicely over the next 5+ years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other lovely wines from the Château Coufran portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia / Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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December 16, 2023 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: Bubbles

Happy Holidays! Here's my top wine picks from the last release of the year! The theme surrounding the December 16 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection is titled "Bubbles" and focuses on sparkling wines for the holidays. There are 92 wines in the release, a bit on the small side compared to recent releases, with southern Rhône wines showing well among my picks. All the wines in this release should be available in stores across Ontario by this Saturday!

We'll begin with the theme on sparkling wines, and of the fourteen bubblies included as part of the theme, just three are among my top sparkling wine picks. At the top of the heap are a pair of Vintage Champagnes, both 2015, with the Nicolas Feuillatte composed of 100% Pinot Noir, while the Veuve Clicquot is an Essentials product, and it is a blend of 50% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, and 20% Meunier. On the more wallet-friendly side, we have a lovely Cava from Spain that is crafted with 75% Macabeo and 25% Chardonnay.

Southern Rhone blends lead the way among my red wine recommendations, and at the top of the list is a lovely, organic Châteauneuf-du-Pape that is made with 13 varieties - 50% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 12% Mourvèdre, 8% Cinsault, Clairette, 5% Bourboulenc, Vaccarèse, Muscardin, Counoise, Terret, Roussanne, Picpoul, and Picardan. The Lirac red is composed of 50% Grenache Noir, 15% Cinsault, 15% Syrah, 10% Carignan, and 10% Mourvèdre, while the Costières de Nîmes red is a blend of 85% Syrah, 10% Grenache, and 5% Mourvèdre. Lastly, the Côtes du Rhône is crafted with 85% Grenache, 10% Shiraz, and 5% Mourvèdre. Other blends include the Chilean red from Maipo Valley that is composed with 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Carmenere, while the Argentine Malbec includes 6% Petit Verdot. The last blend is the Super Tuscan that is crafted with 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot. Some of the mono-varietal wines include the Morgon, which is made with Gamay, while the Barolo is crafted with Nebbiolo.

Among my white wine picks, there are only two wines that are blends - the wine from Greece is a blend of 90% Assyrtiko, 5% Athiri, and 5% Aidani, while the Rhône white was aged in barrels and is composed of 60% Roussanne, 25% Viognier, and 15% Grenache Blanc. Mono-varietal wines include a pair of Chardonnays - a Chablis 1er Cru from Burgundy and one from South Africa, as well as a pair of Sauvignon Blancs - one from Loire and the other is from New Zealand, while the last dry white wine is a Pecorino from Abruzzo in Italy. If you fancy something a little on the sweet side, look at the Riesling from Niagara.

Again, this is the last release of the year, so you'll want to stock up from this release or some other recent release for any holiday gatherings. Enjoy my top wine recommendations from this release and have a safe & happy holiday!

Red Wine:

• SANTA EMA 60/40 BARREL RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON / CARMENÈRE 2021 - Sustainable, DO Valle del Maipo, Chile (#34606) (XD) - $17.95  88+ pts  wine review
• HALOS DE JUPITER CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2021 - AC, France (#276956) (XD) - $18.95
• ARBOLEDA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 - Vegan, DO Valle del Aconcagua, Chile (#606764) (XD) - $19.95  89 pts  wine review
• SUSANA BALBO SIGNATURE MALBEC 2021 - Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina (#79798) (XD) - $20.95  89 pts  wine review
• LOUIS AÎNÉ & FILS MORGON 2022 - AP, Beaujolais, France (#35464) (XD) - $22.95
• WAKEFIELD JARAMAN SHIRAZ 2021 - Clare Valley/McLaren Vale, South Australia (#377036) (XD) - $24.95  90 pts  wine review
• CHÂTEAU DE NAGES JT 2020 - AC Costières de Nîmes, Rhône, France (#736876) (XD) - $29.95
• CHÂTEAU DE MONTFAUCON BARON LOUIS LIRAC 2018 - AP, Rhône, France (#13438) (XD) - $32.95
• TENUTA SETTE PONTI CROGNOLO 2020 - IGT Toscana, Italy (#727636) (XD) - $34.95
• CHÂTEAU MAUCOIL PRIVILÈGE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2020 - AC, Rhône, France (#16210) (XD) - $62.95  94 pts  wine review
• RENATO RATTI MARCENASCO BAROLO 2019 - DOCG, Piedmont, Italy (#713479) (XD) - $75.95

White Wine:

• LE BONHEUR CHARDONNAY 2022 - WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#20970) (XD) - $17.95
• FERZO ABRUZZO PECORINO SUPERIORE 2022 - DOP, Abruzzo, Italy (#573683) (XD) - $17.95
• MEGALOMANIAC NARCISSIST RIESLING 2021 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#67587) (D) - $19.95
• TWO RIVERS CONVERGENCE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 - Sustainable, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#277707) (XD) - $22.95
• ATLANTIS DRY WHITE 2022 - Greece (#371658) (XD) - $22.95  90+ pts  wine review
• CHÂTEAU DE NAGES JT WHITE 2021 - AC Costières de Nîmes, Rhône, France (#485854) (XD) - $29.95
• JEAN PABIOT ET FILS DOMAINE DES FINES CAILLOTTES POUILLY-FUMÉ 2022 - Sustainable, AP, Loire, France (#695908) (XD) - $34.95
• LA CHABLISIENNE GRANDE CUVÉE CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2021 - AC, Burgundy, France (#685222) (XD) - $54.95

Sparkling Wine:

• SEGURA VIUDAS HEREDAD RESERVA BRUT CAVA - Traditional method, DO, Penedès, Spain (#558825) (D) - $39.95  92 pts  wine review
• NICOLAS FEUILLATTE BLANC DE NOIRS GRAND CRU CHAMPAGNE 2015 - AC, Chouilly, France (#18130) (D) - $92.95
• VEUVE CLICQUOT PONSARDIN BRUT VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE 2015 - AC, France (#508614) (XD) - $120.95

Fortified Wine:

• HIDALGO FARAON OLOROSO SHERRY - DO Jerez-Xeres-Sherry, Spain (#471078) (XD) (500 mL) - $23.95  91+ pts  wine review

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Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (New Zealand) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a beautiful Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. A perennial winner and a personal favourite of mine, this white wine arrived at the LCBO last weekend as part of the Fine Wines for Festive Entertaining theme in the December 2 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

This white wine is produced by Greywacke, a renowned winery that was established in 2009 by legendary winemaker Kevin Judd. The name "Greywacke" refers to the high prevalence of rounded greywacke river stones found in the vineyard soils in Rapaura, within the Marlborough wine region. Kevin registered the name many years ago while successfully working for a notable New Zealand winery and sought one day to fulfill a dream of having his own wines - a dream that became a reality. Together with his wife, Kimberley, Greywacke remains a family affair that is now located in the Omaka Valley, one of Marlborough's Southern Valleys.

As a pioneer in Marlborough winemaking, Kevin's philosophy is to "keep it simple" while using a hands-on approach with minimal interventionist winemaking techniques. The fruit for all Greywacke wines is sourced from mature vineyards in prime viticultural sites that are sustainably managed, with an ever-increasing portion coming from organically farmed sites.

Each variety is grown and vinified using specific techniques aimed at achieving very specific wine styles, with a common objective of delivering concentration of flavour and a harmonious balance of texture and acidity. For example, to enhance flavour concentration in the grapes, crop levels are restricted, while meticulous canopy management allows for sufficient sun exposure which delivers ripeness of flavour, textural richness, and optimum acid balance. Wild yeast fermentations are used extensively in order to add a savoury character to the flavour profile, while also building structure and a textured mouthfeel. The range of Greywacke wines is primarily focused on Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, plus a number of limited production wines using other varieties. Greywacke is accredited with Appellation Marlborough Wine to ensure provenance, authenticity, and integrity. Kevin is also a renowned photographer with a couple of published photography books, while the label of each Greywacke wine is adorned with his photo.

These days, the Judd family is joined by Richelle Tyney, who joined the team in 2021 and manages the winemaking programme, while also travelling abroad to spread the word about Greywacke wines. In 2019, one of the Judd family's two sons, Alex, plunged himself into the production side of the winemaking team at Greywacke. And in news that is just a couple of weeks old, Greywacke announced that Ben Leonard joined the team to manage the sales and commercial side of their global distribution network.

Like the 2021 Greywacke Savuginon Blanc that I enjoyed last year, this fruit for this vintage was sourced from prime vineyard sites in Marlborough's Southern Valleys and the central Wairau Plains - specifically in Woodbourne, Renwick, and Rapaura. The vines were planted on various soil types, varying from young alluvial soils in Rapaura and Renwick, which contain high proportions of New Zealand's ubiquitous greywacke river stones, to older and denser clay-loams of the Southern Valleys. The majority of the vineyards were trained using the divided Scott Henry canopy management system, with the balance on a two- or three-cane Vertical Shoot Positioning trellis. The grapes were largely machine-harvested during the cool (and often cold) nighttime conditions. Upon arrival at the winery in the Omaka Valley, the grapes were lightly pressed to yield a modest volume of high-quality juice. The juice was then cold-settled and racked prior to fermentation. It was fermented primarily in stainless steel tanks with cultured yeast, while a portion of the juice was allowed to undergo spontaneous indigenous yeast fermentation in old oak barrels. All individual vineyard batches were left on lees and kept separate until late June, when the blend of Sauvignon Blanc was assembled, and then bottled in mid-August.

The 2022 winegrowing season in Marlborough was marked by a cold and wet February, which resulted in big bunches and berries, and an ensuing large harvest which meant that crop-thinning was especially important. However, finer weather during the autumn months delivered optimal fruit ripeness levels While there were challenges during the growing season, many producers successfully managed the vintage to produce some beautifully elegant wines. Let's see how this 2022 Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

GREYWACKE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#164228) (XD) - $26.95
Screw cap. Elegantly ripe with a medium-high intensity nose offers lovely and complex aromas of passion fruit, lime-lemon citrus, and leesy minerals with touches of grapefruit, guava, spice, kiwi, and melon adding nuance. It has a lovely, structured and textured mouthfeel, with equally impressive weight on the medium+ to medium-full bodied palate. It's dry with lovely ripe lime-lemon citrus, passion fruit, guava, and leesy mineral flavours. It's juicy and succulent with fresh, balanced, and saliva-inducing acidity. A touch spicy, plus intriguing notes of mango and melon add further complexity on the mid-palate, while leesy mineral notes linger on the long, juicy finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy the next 4-5 years. Score: 92 pts

Other fine wines from the Greywacke portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia / Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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La Vite Lucente 2021 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Super Tuscan that arrived at the LCBO today and is part of theme of Fine Wines for Festive Entertaining in the December 2nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Tenuta Luce, a winery project that was formed in the early 1990's when Vittorio Frescobaldi met Robert Mondavi. From that meeting, a new chapter in great Tuscan wines was written, with a dream to create a wine in Montalcino (Tuscany), the land of choice for the production of excellent wines that, while acknowledging and celebrating tradition, went beyond the boundaries of tradition by treasuring the experiences of two historic wine families. The ambitious project took the name of Tenuta Luce - a name that evokes the sunlight of Montalcino. The sun is also the source of life and nourishment, while also marking the passage of the seasons and sets the pace for all agricultural activity. Sol Solis, or the radiant sun, is the inspiring symbol of Luce's brand. It is the sun that is chiseled on the main altar of the Church of Santo Spirito, in Florence, that was commissioned in the 15th century to Brunelleschi and built on land donated by the Frescobaldi family. Luce is an homage to the sun that provides warmth, energy, and life.

Tenuta Luce is located on the land of Montalcino, a land which is the origin of everything and their home, as well as a magical place where wine is life, tradition, and culture. The land of Montalcino is perched on an enchanting hill that retains is medieval charm, while the surrounding area is classically Tuscan with gentle slopes covered with vineyards, olive groves, and woods. Montalcino is also a territory with a microclimate of unparalleled value for the cultivation of grapevines.

The values at Tenuta Luce begins with wine that is the most natural expression of the territory where it is produced, while also reflecting the characteristics of the grapes from which it is obtained. The work begins with great care in tending the vines to enhance the precious harmony in the vineyard and continues all the way to the winery, where the ripe grapes are brought in and vinified in steps with great attention to detail that reflects the philosophy of the Estate. Respect is also a core value at Tenuta Luce - respect for the land, the vineyards, and the people who work there. People's intelligence and curiosity must be respected and stimulated, as this intelligence encourages and fuels continuous improvement. The beauty of nature must be preserved and nurtured, protected and nourished, as it is from this beauty that they draw inspiration to exceed and do better. As guests of this world, Tenuta Luce is driven to leave the land in a better place than how they found it for future generations. As such, the vineyards are planted only and strictly according to the suitability of each parcel, while aiming to safeguard the biodiversity of the land that makes Luce unique.

Luce's vineyards are situated on slopes to the southwest of the village of Montalcino. The heterogeneous vineyards have different exposures to the sun, a variety of soils, and altitudes ranging from 280 to 418 metres above sea level. The soils are schistose in the upper range, rich in yellow sands and sandstones in the central belt, and mixed-clayey at lower elevations. The altitude and southern exposure of the vineyards support a slow and complete ripening of the grapes to produce wines of great concentration and vigor, while the cool, breezy nights help preserve the aromatic complexity of the grapes and acidity in the wines. Merlot is an integral component of Luce's wines, as the first Merlot grapes arrived in Montalcino thanks to the Frescobaldi family.

This red wine is crafted with Merlot and Sangiovese. Both grapes were harvested in magnificent weather in September (the Merlot on September 3 and Sangiovese ten days later), and after the grapes were brought to the winery, they were fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks for 10 days, with maceration on the skins for 20 days. After undergoing malolactic fermentation, the wine was aged for 12 months in new and used barriques.

The growing season in 2021 began with a severe winter that brought little moisture, followed by a spring that started dry and mild, with above-average temperatures at times, particularly in March. While temperatures plunged to freezing at the beginning of April throughout Tuscany, Tenuta Luce's vineyards fortunately suffered no damage due to the high-elevation Sangiovese vineyards that were situated above the cold air, while the Merlot buds were still protected by their cottony sheath. Preceding the flowering stage, the first bout of heat arrived in late May. The summer months were hot and dry, while a timely rainfall in mid-July helped lower temperatures, provided relief to the vines, and created the ideal conditions for veraison. In August, there was some beneficial rainfall that lowered the heat and encouraged significant diurnal temperature variation between day and night, conditions which helped preserve aromatic crispness and ripeness in the berries. Harvest was carried out in magnificent weather with no rain. From a good-to-excellent and healthy vintage, let's see how this 2021 Super Tuscan is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LA VITE LUCENTE 2021 - IGT Toscana, Italy (#747030) (XD) - $32.95
This blend of Merlot and Sangiovese has a medium+ intensity nose takes some coaxing to open up, offering attractive notions of rich and ripe red & black cherry, cedary wood, baking spice, and savoury wet earth aromas. It's medium-full bodied with lovely, ripe, red and black cherry, baking spice, rose floral, clove, sandalwood, and earthy flavours that are supported by fresh and juicy acidity. Rich, structured tannins are youthful and somewhat grippy with a slightly chalky texture. Earthy with mineral notes linger on the long, grippy, and well-structured finish. Having tasted several vintages of this wine, this is probably my favourite. Enjoyable now, but will reward with time in the cellar. Best over the next 7-8 years and a highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Other fine wines by Tenuta Luce recently arrived at the LCBO, but can also be ordered through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.

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December 2, 2023 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: Fine Wines for Festive Entertaining

Here's my top wine picks from the second last release of the year - the December 2, 2023 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection that features Fine Wines for Festive Entertaining. It is a very big release with 155 products on offer, including a rather large collection of nearly 50 wines that are available as Online and Flagship Exclusives (FE). The price creep also continues with not many wines under $20. All of the wines will be available for purchase by this Saturday.

We begin with the theme on Fine Wines for Festive Entertaining, and of the twenty-one wines featured in the theme, eight are included among my top wine picks. Starting at the top is a very fine vintage bubbly from sparkling wine specialist 13th Street Winery in Niagara that is crafted with 54% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir. White wines from the theme are the Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand and a pair of 100% Chardonnay wines - one from Argentina, and the other is a Chablis Premier Cru from Burgundy. Most of my recommended red wines from the theme are all blend variations of Cabernet and Merlot: the 2010 Bordeaux is composed of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, the Lucente Super Tuscan is a blend of Merlot and Sangiovese, while the blend from Western Australia is crafted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec. The lone mono-varietal red is a lovely Pinot Noir from the Côte de Beaune village of Saint-Romain, in Burgundy.

My top red wine picks from the main release begins with the latest vintage of the iconic Ornellaia that is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot. There are two other blends and both are from Montes - the Wings Carmenère is actually a blend of 85% Carmenère and 15% Cabernet Franc, while the Alpha Special Cuvée Cabernet Sauvignon is composed of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Syrah, and 5% Carmenère. The rest of the red wines are mono-varietal, including the Pinot Noir from Burgundy.

The six wines among my top white wine recommendations from the main release are made up of a pair of Sauvignon Blanc wines from New Zealand, and a pair of Chardonnay wines - one each from Niagara and Chile. There are also a pair of Riesling wines - the Australian version is crafted in a dry style, while the German Riesling is deliciously very sweet. Additionally, the traditional method vintage sparkling wine from Jackson-Triggs is crafted with 70% Chardonnay, 27% Pinot Noir, and 3% Pinot Meunier.

Enjoy my top wine recommendations from this release! Cheers!

Red Wine:

• MONTES LIMITED SELECTION PINOT NOIR 2022 - DO Aconcagua Costa, Chile (#37937) (XD) - $15.95  88+ pts  wine review
• TARAPACÁ GRAN RESERVA CARMENÈRE 2021 - DO Valle del Maipo, Chile (#57513) (XD) - $16.95  89 pts  wine review
• MONTES ALPHA SPECIAL CUVÉE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 - DO Valle de Colchagua, Chile (#649160) (XD) - $22.95  90 pts  wine review
• CATENA APPELLATION AGRELO CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 - Agrelo, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina (#484303) (XD) - $22.95
• NEIL ELLIS SYRAH 2021 - WO Groenekloof, South Africa (#33289) (XD) - $24.95
• SANTA RITA FLORESTA CARMENÈRE 2021 - DO Apalta, Valle de Colchagua, Chile (#34733) (XD) - $27.95  91 pts  wine review

• KECHRIS XINOMAVRO 2020 - PGI Slopes of Paiko, Greece (#33262) (XD) - $29.95  91 pts  wine review
• LA VITE LUCENTE 2021 - IGT Toscana, Italy (#747030) (XD) - $32.95  91 pts  wine review
• EVANS & TATE REDBROOK ESTATE CABERNET/MERLOT 2019 - Margaret River, Western Australia (#16530) (XD) - $34.95
• BICHOT SAINT-ROMAIN PINOT NOIR 2018 - AC, Burgundy, France (#33708) (XD) - $41.95  91+ pts  wine review
• GREYSTONE PINOT NOIR 2019 - Waipara Valley, North Canterbury, South Island, New Zealand (#30151) (XD) - $43.95
• CHÂTEAU COUFRAN 2010 - AC Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux, France (#325555) (XD) - $43.95  93 pts  wine review

• CASAS DEL BOSQUE PEQUEÑAS SYRAH 2021 - Vegan, sustainable, small parcels, DO Valle de Casablanca, Chile (#34737) (XD) - $44.95  FE  92+ pts  wine review
• WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE BLACK LABEL CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019 - Coonawarra, South Australia (#84996) (XD) - $47.95  93 pts  wine review
• DOMAINE PANSIOT CÔTE DE NUITS-VILLAGES 2021 - Sustainable, AC, Burgundy, France (#34252) (XD) - $48.95  FE  93 pts  wine review
• MONTES WINGS CARMENÈRE 2019 - DO Apalta, Valle de Colchagua, Chile (#33354) (XD) - $67.95  FE  93 pts  wine review
• ORNELLAIA 2020 - DOC Bolgheri Superiore, Tuscany, Italy (#722470) (XD) - $276.95  95 pts  wine review

White Wine:

• SONS OF EDEN FREYA RIESLING 2022 - Eden Valley, South Australia (#12652) (XD) - $19.95
• VILLA MARIA WAIRAU VALLEY RESERVE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021 - Sustainable, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#536201) (XD) - $20.95
• STAETE LANDT ANNABEL SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 - Sustainable, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#648691) (XD) - $25.95
• EL ENEMIGO CHARDONNAY 2022 - Mendoza, Argentina (#482984) (XD) - $25.95  92 pts  wine review
  
• GREYWACKE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#164228) (XD) - $26.95  92 pts  wine review
• SANTA RITA FLORESTA CHARDONNAY 2021 - DO Punitaqui, Valle del Limarí, Chile (#34732) (XD) - $27.95  FE  91 pts  wine review
• STUDERT-PRÜM WEHLENER SONNENUHR RIESLING SPÄTLESE 2020 - Prädikatswein, Mosel, Germany (#114777) (S) - $27.95  FE
• ON SEVEN THE PURSUIT CHARDONNAY 2019 - VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (#25856) (XD) - $48.00  FE
• VINCENT DE LA REMONDIÈRE LES FOURCHAUME CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2020 - AC, Burgundy, France (#32956) (XD) - $51.95  93 pts  wine review

Sparkling Wine:

• JACKSON-TRIGGS ENTOURAGE GRAND RESERVE BRUT SPARKLING 2017 - Traditional method, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#234161) (D) - $34.95  91 pts  wine review
• 13TH STREET PREMIER CUVÉE SPARKLING 2017 - Traditional method, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#142679) (XD) - $39.95  93+ pts  wine review

Fortified Wine:

• CROFT RESERVE TAWNY PORT - DOP, Portugal (#538983) (S) - $18.95

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