Tenuta di Renieri Chianti Classico 2020 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely, organic Sangiovese from the Chianti Classico DOCG appellation that arrived at the LCBO earlier this month in the October 5th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Like the 2013 Tenuta di Renieri Chianti Classico that I enjoyed over six years ago, this red wine is produced by Bacci Wines, a family-owned winery with deep roots in Tuscany. It was established by Marco Bacci, who was born in Florence and embarked on a career path that took him through his family's business that specialized in clothing manufacturing to become an iconic fashion company in Italy. Marco also had a real estate company and acquired several properties, one of which was Castello di Bossi in 1984.

Oenology was a pleasant hobby for Marco, and in 1985 he bottled his first wine. For many years, Marco balanced his commitment to the fashion world with his passion for wine. In 1996, Marco decided to leave the fashion world and dedicate his heart and soul to the wine industry by focusing on the vine and wine. Over the next few years, he acquired estates in Brunello di Montalcino and Morellino di Scansano to complete the coverage of the three main Tuscan DOCGs.

Jacopo Bacci, son of Marco, was born in Florence in 1984, and after obtaining his diploma in scientific studies, he enrolled in the University of Enology in Florence. By 2004, while still studying oenology, Jacobo joined and expanded the family business by taking responsibility for the Italian, English, and German markets. He continued to expand the family's wine brand presence in North American and Asian markets.

Today, the mission of Bacci Wines is to offer their customers the opportunity to enjoy some of the world's best wines at any time and wherever they may be. Bacci Wines is made up of five estates across Tuscany's best territories covering more than 900 hectares of vineyards, while producing various styles of wines across a wide range of labels. The group of wineries are organic and powered by clean energy. The vision is to produce high-quality, organic wines across their entire portfolio. Bacci Wines firmly believes that by choosing an organic approach, they are able to safeguard the beauty and integrity of their land, while also ensuring extraordinary quality standards and an unparalleled tasting experience.

With several estates owned by Bacci Wines, this particular red wine is from their Tenuta di Renieri Estate, which is located in the municipality of Castelnuovo Berardenga, in the southeast of the Chianti Classico territory. This property borders the lands of Castello di Bossi, one of Bacci's other estates, and covers approximately 60 hectares of land, of which 22 hectares are planted to vineyards. Specializing in the production of Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva, the Renieri estate's vineyards are situated 300 metres above sea-level and south-facing. The soil composition at Renieri varies from yellow clays to tuff, and is supported by a rounded stone skeleton that provides natural drainage.

The 2020 growing season in Chianti Classico was somewhat difficult due to the pandemic and a spring frost which reduced yields. However, the long, hot summer with good diurnal temperature variation and important rainfall in June and September led to an early harvest that resulted in ripe, fleshy, and fruit-filled red wines. The pandemic also allowed winegrowers to concentrate their efforts towards every aspect of cultivation, vineyard management, and production. Let's see how this 2020 Chianti Classico from Tuscany is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TENUTA DI RENIERI CHIANTI CLASSICO 2020 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#540849) (XD) - $22.95
Aged in wooden casks, this organic Sangiovese has a fragrant, medium-high intensity nose that is savoury and slightly reductive, which blows off and reveals a lovely, attractive mix of ripe red & black cherries, rose floral, savoury earth, and sweet spice aromas, plus whiffs crushed stone and blackberry adding further complexity. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate it has sour dark red cherry, black cherry, blackberry, savoury earth, and oak spice flavours. It has fresh, tangy acidity, while the smooth, supportive, and elegant tannins have good structure and a touch of grip on the back palate. Shows nice balance with savoury earth, mineral, and touches of oak spice lingering on the long, persistent, and juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Fine wines from other Bacci Wines estates are available not only at the LCBO, but can also be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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La Chevalière Rasteau 2022 (Rhône) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent Grenache-based blend from Rasteau that arrived at the LCBO earlier this month as part of the October 5 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

The La Chevalière label is a joint product between Les Grandes Serres and Rémy Ferbras. Both producers are based in the Rhône Valley and known for their expertise in crafting high-quality wines from the prestigious Southern Rhône Valley appellations. They use traditional winemaking techniques combined with modern practices to express the unique terroirs of the Rhône Valley. With sustainable vineyard practices, hand-harvesting, and meticulous sorting of grapes, both producers work with growers to ensure high-quality grapes are grown.

Like the 2017 La Chevalière Rasteau I enjoyed a few years ago, this red wine is a blend of four grapes led by Grenache. The 2022 vintage is, in fact, a blend of 70% Grenache, 10% Carignan, 10% Mourvèdre, and 10% Syrah. The grapes were grown in the Rasteau Cru, a village located just north of Vaucluse county, between the valleys of Aigues and Ouvèze, in the Southern Rhône Valley. The area of Rasteau has a variety of terroirs, including red marl and sandstone, clay and limestone soils, and is covered with worn pebbles on the surface. After accumulating heat throughout the day, these pebbles are known for their ability to release all that heat at night, which in turn cools down the vines. The Mediterranean climate and diversity of terroirs in Rasteau offers an ideal environment for the wines to fully express their structured, generous, and powerful nature.

To vinify this Rhône red, the grapes were destemmed, softly crushed, and placed in temperature-controlled vats to undergo a three-week maceration with regular pumping-over and délestage (rack and return). After ageing, the different terroirs were blended together to achieve optimum balance for the very differentiated character of this Rasteau.

The 2022 growing season in the Southern Rhône was marked by intense heat and drought, with the year beginning as a dry winter that saw very little rain. It was followed by a spring that rapidly warmed up, although April did experience a fleeting cold snap. Even though temperatures continued to rise, budburst and flowering were a success. May was abnormally hot, while rain in June brought some relief. Heat and drought during the summer months kept rot and disease at bay, while humidity arrived in August, which revived the vines and benefited the red grape varieties Grenache and Syrah. Overall, grape quality is high in 2022. Let's see how this 2022 Rasteau from the Southern Rhône is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LA CHEVALIÈRE RASTEAU 2022 - AC, Rhône, France (#18502) (XD) - $23.95
This blend of 70% Grenache, 10% Carignan, 10% Mourvèdre, and 10% Syrah has a ripe, bright, and lifted nose of medium-high to high intensity that delivers lovely red & black raspberry, blackberry, black cherry, and spice aromas surrounding a meaty, savoury, and mineral core. Some olive and Mediterranean herb aromas appear with time in the glass, adding further complexity. On the dry, medium+ to medium-full bodied palate it has spicy, black and red berry fruited raspberry, cassis, savoury mineral, and earthy flavours with some plummy notes. Acids are fresh and tangy, while structured, grainy tannins have some chalky grip. Peppery spice with savoury earth and stony mineral notes linger on the long, grippy, and structured finish. Enjoyable now, and should drink well over the next 6-8 years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Other lovely wines from the producers of La Chevalière can be ordered through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.

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Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo 2020 (Piedmont) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent, vegan-friendly Nebbiolo from Piedmont that arrived at the LCBO last month in the September 21 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by the prestigious and historic Vietti winery, which was established at the end of the 1800s by Carlo Vietti in the heart of the Langhe wine region, on the highest point of the medieval village of Castiglione Falletto, where it continues to be located today.

In 1917, Mario Vietti, son of Carlo, returned after spending several years in the U.S. and took over the family farm and transformed it into a winemaking facility dedicated to the production of high quality wines. In the late-1950s, Luciana Vietti, daughter of Mario, and her husband and winemaker Alfredo Currado, who were both great admirers of art, brought the Vietti family to newer heights by intertwining winemaking knowledge, art, and culture.

With the ambition and foresight of Alfredo, one of the first Barolo Cru - Rocche di Castiglione - was born in 1961, and six years later the first Roero Arneis was born. In 1974, as Vietti wines were matched with artist labels, the Vietti brand became an icon and a standard-bearer of one of the most important revolutions of that time.

In the 1980s, the legacy of Luciana and Alfredo was taken over by their son-in-law, Mario Cordero, followed in the 1990s by their son Luca Currado Vietti, and accompanied by his wife, Elena. Under the leadership of the 4th generation of the Vietti family, the brand has grown today to be universally recognized among the best Italian labels with the core values of commitment, vision, culture, and enthusiasm. Vietti's road to quality combines respect for tradition and careful experimentation, where man and earth have always been able to dialogue.

In 2016, the Krause family purchased the winery and expanded the estate with new and renowned Crus in the denomination of both Barolo and Barbaresco. The Krause family is committed to safeguarding the identity and values that have characterized the Vietti brand since its origins, while also looking towards the future. Today, Vietti holds some of the most valuable and representative vineyards in the Barolo and Barbaresco areas. In total, they have 75 hectares of vineyards across Langhe, Roero, Asti, and Colli Tortonesi. The territory they inhabit, cultivate, take care of, and practice sustainability, has been recognized since 2014 as a UNESCO World Heritage Site - a home for them and the vines.

Vietti has an Agronomic Manifesto with sustainability at its core. Since 2007, Vietti has been practicing sustainable vineyard management techniques. They resort to weeding, promoting biodiversity of the agricultural ecosystem, and minimizing the use of agricultural vehicles. Furthermore, they monitor the impact on the environment around them and act flexibly and adaptively.

With several ranges in the Vietti portfolio, this red wine is from their Classic range and is crafted with 100% Nebbiolo that was grown in selected vineyard sites mostly situated in the areas of Barolo and Barbaresco. To vinify this wine, the grapes underwent temperature-controlled (28°-32°C) alcoholic fermentation for 3-4 weeks, followed by malolactic fermentation in steel tanks and/or barriques. Each parcel is vinified and aged separately, followed by a selection of lots that will be used for this Langhe Nebbiolo, and those that will continue to be aged for Barolo Castiglione. After malolactic fermentation, further maturation takes place in barriques and large barrels for about 18-20 months, followed by blending in steel, and finally bottled.

The 2020 growing season in Piedmont was an earlier ripening vintage that began with a mild winter, a very wet spring, and followed by a warm summer. Crop size was slightly lower than average, while acidity levels were bright and demonstrated impressive complexity. Overall, the quality in Piedmont in 2020 is excellent, with Langhe Nebbiolo wines showcasing their elegance with rounded tannins. With a vintage that's believed to be even better than the powerful 2019 vintage for Nebbiolo, let's see how this 2020 Nebbiolo from Piedmont is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

VIETTI PERBACCO NEBBIOLO 2020 - Vegan, DOC Langhe, Piedmont, Italy (#15087) (XD) - $36.95
Clean, fragrant, and perfumed, the very attractive, highly aromatic nose is complex with red & black cherry, floral, underbrush, cinnamon, and fine sweet spice aromas, plus touches of tobacco and savoury earth. The medium-full bodied palate is impressively structured with ripe red berry, cherry, cranberry, savoury earth, and underbrush flavours with hints of oak spice and herbs. Acids are crisp, fresh, and juicy, while the dusty, structured tannins are approachable, yet age worthy. Some orange notes add further complexity to the red cherry, floral, and oak spice finish, with excellent length. Should drink nicely for at least a decade, probably more. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92+ pts

Small quantities of other fine wines by Vietti are available at the LCBO, while the entire range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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October 19, 2024 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: Top Italian Regions

Here are my top wine picks from today's October 19, 2024 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection. The theme of the release is titled "Top Italian Regions", while the mini-theme (with only 3 wines) shines a spotlight on Patagonia, Argentina. Overall, it is a big release with over 140 wines and includes a selection of large-format gifting options, as well as a fine selection of Online & Flagship Exclusives (OFE), all of which are readily available for purchase today.

We'll begin with the theme titled "Top Italian Regions", which takes you on a tour through most of Italy's wine regions, although Campania is notably absent from this tour. There are nineteen wines included as part of the theme, with eight wines among my top wine picks. The tour begins in Tuscany with a Bolgheri that is a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, while the Gran Selezione Chianti Classico is composed of 80% Sangiovese, 13% Merlot, and 7% Malvasia Nera. Next, we go south to the volcanic island of Sicily for a white wine made with Carricante, and an Etna Rosso crafted with Nerello Mascalese. Next, we head northeast for a Nebbiolo from Piedmont, then west to Veneto for a 2022 Soave that is 100% Garganega, and a Valpolicella that is a blend of Corvina Veronese, Corvinone, and Rondinella. For the last stop on this tour, we go a little further north to Alto Adige for a northern Italian Pinot Grigio.

Red wine recommendations from the rest of the release starts in Chile with an iconic wine that is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Malbec, 17% Carmenere, and 6% Petit Verdot. There are a trio of red blends from the Rhône, with the Plan de Dieu composed of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, and Mourvèdre, the Costières de Nîmes is a a blend of 75% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah, and 5% Carignan, and the Vinsobres is an unoaked blend of Grenache and Syrah. From Italy, the Riserva Chianti Classico is crafted with 100% Sangiovese, while the 2017 red from Sicily is made with 58% Nero d'Avola and 42% Perricone. Lastly, the Rioja is composed of 65% Tempranillo, 25% Garnacha, and 10% Graciano / Mazuelo, while the Beaujolais is made with Gamay.

Among my top white wine picks from the main release, all are mono-varietal wines. There's a fine Assyrtiko from Greece, followed by a trio of Sauvignon Blanc wines - one each from New Zealand, Chile, and South Africa. Also on the list is a lovely 2015 Soave from Veneto that is made with Garganega, and a locally crafted Chardonnay from Niagara that was fermented and aged in Canadian oak. For those that prefer slightly sweet wines, the Gewürztraminer from Alsace is a perennial favourite.

There are three Champagne sparkling wines worth your attention. The NV bubbly by Heidsieck is composed of 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, and 20% Meunier, while the Sélèque is made with 50% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Meunier, and 10% Pinot Noir. And lastly, the 2016 Brut Rosé is a blend of 43% Pinot Noir (13% red wine), 42% Chardonnay, and 15% Meunier.

Enjoy my top wine recommendations from this release! Cheers!

Red Wine:

• ALAMOS SELECCIÓN MALBEC 2020 - La Consulta, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina (#322800) (XD) - $16.95
• RÉMY FERBRAS PLAN DE DIEU CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES 2022 - AP, France (#538009) (XD) - $17.95  89 pts  wine review
• SAN ALEJANDRO QUERENCIA DESEYA ORGANIC VIEJA GARNACHA 2022 - Vegan, DO Calatayud, Spain (#37722) (XD) - $18.00
• COURTOIS LA GRANGE VINSOBRES 2022 - Sustainable, AC, Rhône, France (#526632) (XD) - $19.95
• CAVE DU CHÂTEAU DES LOGES LES 3 MADONES CÔTE DE BROUILLY 2022 - AC, Beaujolais, France (#39769) (XD) - $21.95  90 pts  wine review

• MONTE DEL FRÀ TENUTA LENA DI MEZZO VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO CLASSICO SUPERIORE 2021 - DOC, Veneto, Italy (#165662) (D) - $24.95  90+ pts  wine review
• MICHEL GASSIER NOSTRE PAÏS 2021 - AP Costières de Nîmes, Rhône, France (#295410) (XD) - $25.95  90 pts  wine review
  
• RÉVA NEBBIOLO D'ALBA 2021 - DOC, Piedmont, Italy (#38310) (XD) - $28.95
• R. LÓPEZ DE HEREDIA VIÑA CUBILLO CRIANZA 2016 - DOCa Rioja, Spain (#692780) (XD) - $33.95
• TORNATORE PIETRARIZZO ETNA ROSSO 2021 - DOC, Sicily, Italy (#18926) (XD) - $37.95
• FLAT ROCK GRAVITY PINOT NOIR 2020 - Sustainable, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#1560) (XD) - $39.95  92 pts  wine review

 

• THIRTY BENCH WILD CASK CABERNET FRANC 2020 - VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#41093) (XD) - $55.00  92+ pts  wine review
• CASTELLO DI VOLPAIA RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2020 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#705335) (XD) - $64.95  OFE
• REGALEALI ROSSO DEL CONTE 2017 - DOC Contea di Sclafani, Sicily, Italy (#22824) (XD) - $74.95  OFE
• CASTELLO DI AMA SAN LORENZO GRAN SELEZIONE CHIANTI CLASSICO 2019 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#12751) (XD) - $76.95  94+ pts  wine review
  
• GUADO AL TASSO 2021 - DOC Bolgheri Superiore, Tuscany, Italy (#986380) (XD) - $204.95  94+ pts  wine review
  
• SEÑA 2021 - Vegan, Valle del Aconcagua, Chile (#496430) (XD) - $209.95  OFE  95 pts  wine review

White Wine:

• SUTHERLAND SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 - WO Elgin, South Africa (#203877) (XD) - $15.95
• LUIS FELIPE EDWARDS FAMILY SELECTION GRAN RESERVA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 - Vegan, Valle de Leyda, Chile (#37758) (XD) - $16.95  90 pts  wine review
• SKOURAS WILD FERMENT ASSYRTIKO 2023 - PGI Peloponnese, Greece (#32387) (XD) - $19.95  90+ pts  wine review
• ALOIS LAGEDER TERRA ALPINA PINOT GRIGIO 2022 - IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti, Alto Adige, Italy (#681429) (XD) - $19.95  91 pts  wine review
• BABICH BLACK LABEL SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 - Sustainable, Estate grown, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#9142) (XD) - $20.95
• PIERRE SPARR GRANDE RÉSERVE GEWURZTRAMINER 2022 - AC Alsace, France (#747600) (D) - $20.95
• INAMA VIN SOAVE CLASSICO 2022 - DOC, Veneto, Italy (#949768) (XD) - $22.95
• FEATHERSTONE CANADIAN OAK CHARDONNAY 2022 - Vegan, Sustainable, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#149302) (XD) - $24.95  90 pts  wine review
• TORNATORE ETNA BIANCO 2022 - DOC, Sicily, Italy (#577676) (XD) - $27.95
• GINI LA FROSCÀ SOAVE CLASSICO 2015 - DOC, Veneto, Italy (#528471) (XD) - $57.95  OFE

Sparkling Wine:

• JM SÉLÈQUE SOLESSENCE EXTRA BRUT CHAMPAGNE - AC, France (#22923) (XD) - $88.95  OFE  92 pts  wine review
  
• CHARLES HEIDSIECK BRUT RÉSERVE CHAMPAGNE - Disgorged in 2023, AC, France (#36962) (XD) - $94.95  OFE
• MOËT & CHANDON GRAND VINTAGE EXTRA BRUT ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE 2016 - AC, France (#69831) (XD) - $129.95

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Escapade Shiraz 2021 (Barossa) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely, vegan-friendly Australian Shiraz. It is a brand-new arrival at the LCBO that landed on shelves (and online) in Ontario as part of last month's September 21 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Escapade Vineyards wines are produced by Shanahans Wines, a family-owned and operated winery situated in the hamlet of Greenock, on the outskirts of northwestern Barossa, that has grown from humble beginnings to a significant operation.

The name 'Shanahans Wines' is a tribute to John Harris' family, in particular to his late grandfather, James (Jim) Shanahan. It was Jim who established a broadacre farm in the early 1900s at Magdala, South Australia, while John spent much of his childhood years by his grandfather's side, helping and exploring this beloved property.

On the property is an old shearing shed, where John recalls his fondest memories spending time with the shearers and seasonal workers. It was also in this shed where John turned one tonne of fruit that had been gifted to him into the first 60 cases of Shanahans Wines, which he shared with friends and family. The enjoyment of hand-crafting such a small parcel of premium Barossa fruit and having a label to honour his family started a tradition.

Today, Shanahans Wines is led by John and his wife, Gemma, along with their three boys that they are bringing up together among their vines. John has worked in the wine industry for more than two decades, working his way up from cellar hand to winemaker to owning his own wine company. He has love for his iconic family farm in the Barossa Valley with strong ancestral ties to the region and its people. Gemma is a seventh generation Barossan who comes from a long line of vignerons. She grew up in the small village of Krondorf and spent her childhood years in the vineyards exploring and helping her late father tend to 30 acres of vines.

Together, the Harris family hand crafts their wines with care each vintage, using small parcels of premium fruit that are sourced predominantly from the Western Barossa sub-regions of Greenock and Marananga, as well as parcels from selected growers in Eden Valley, Ebenezer, and Tanunda. In order to represent the true character of the individual vineyards and varieties, much of the fruit is hand-picked from old vineyards and fermented in small batches on skins to retain as much fleshy fruit as possible. Mostly older French oak is used for maturation, ensuring that the fruit is the main feature of each wine.

This red wine is crafted using 100% Shiraz that was sourced from a selection of growers that John has worked with for several years in the Barossa Valley hamlets of Greenock, Tanunda, Ebenezer, and Bethany. The individual vineyards were picked and crushed separately. Each vineyard provides different characteristics, and when coming together by assemblage, becomes more than the sum of its parts. It underwent fermentation in small, 4-tonne open fermenters, with pumping twice a day for one week before draining and being slowly basket-pressed. After fermentation, the wine was aged in 2- to 4-year-old French oak.

From a near-perfect vintage that resulted in both high quality and quantity, let's see how this 2021 Shiraz from Barossa Valley is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ESCAPADE SHIRAZ 2021 - Vegan, Barossa Valley, South Australia (#36286) (XD) - $17.95
Screw cap. The open, fragrant, medium-high to highly aromatic nose has lovely ripe black and red raspberry, blackberry, and black pepper spice aromas layered over savoury earth, oak spice, and touches of meaty and dried herb notes. It's medium+ to medium-full bodied on the dry palate with delicious ripe raspberry, blackberry, black pepper, and dried herb flavours with just a touch of jamminess. It has fresh, juicy acidity, while the ripe, supple, and fine-grained tannins provide a nice, textured mouthfeel and are integrating nicely. It's well-balanced with blackberry, raspberry, and peppery notes tapering to a long, savoury, mineral-tinged finish. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely Shanahans Wines can be ordered through their Agent - Lexcellent Wines.

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Deux Roches Vieilles Vignes Pouilly-Fuissé 2021 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Happy Thanksgiving! Tonight's white wine review is a lovely white wine that I first tasted just over a year ago and am delighted to see it arrive at the LCBO as part of the September 21st LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection as an Online & Flagship Exclusive and available at 17 stores in Ontario right now.

Deux Roches is the Burgundy winery of Collovray et Terrier. The Domaine is situated in the heart of the picturesque Mâconnais landscape, in the village of Davayé, and focuses mainly on white wines made with Chardonnay in the Mâconnais style.

The story of Deux Roches, which means "Two Rocks", begins in 1928 when Joanny Collovray settled in the small village of Davayé, a few kilometres west of Mâcon, in the south of Burgundy. He farmed the land, made goat cheese, and grew various crops, including vines. As a simple tenant farmer, he made some wine on the property and the merchants took care of selling it, and in 1940, Collovray was mentioned in the press for the quality of his work. In 1956, his son, Henri Collovray, took over the property and extended the family's vine holdings by purchasing a few parcels in the Mâcon-Davayé appellation. At the young age of 16, Henri's son, Christian, began working the vines and later gave up animal farming to focus solely on winegrowing.

The Terrier family had no history of cultivating vines. Léon Terrier was the village blacksmith and always worked alongside local winegrowers. Growing up in this environment, Léon's son, Jean-Luc Terrier, chose to go to an agricultural college and specialize in viticulture. Jean-Luc crossed paths along the way with Christian, his neighbour and childhood friend, and together they shared a love of the vines and wines.

Christian and Jean-Luc's bond grew even closer when they married two sisters, Brigitte and Florence, who were also from a family of winegrowers. The two couples had a dream to create an estate together to make wines from Christian and his father's vines, and in 1986 the dream became a reality. The vines were grouped around the two rocks of Vergisson and Solutré, which led to the name "Deux Roches". From the beginning, each member of the two families played a role, with Christian tending the vines, Jean-Luc responsible for the cellar and sales, and both Brigitte and Florence first worked the vines, then looked after bottling, and finally devoting themselves to administrative and commercial matters as the business grew.

In 2009, Julien Collovray, son of Christian and Brigitte, joined the family business following his studies in viticulture, oenology, law, and economics, and various experiences at other wine estates. In 2012, Caroline Collovray, Julien's wife, also joined the estate as an oenologist with experience in several estates. In 2019, Pierre-Alexis Terrier, son of Jean-Luc and Florence, returned to the Domaine after completing his studies abroad and working in the vines and the cellar at both Davayé and Antugnac in Languedoc.

The philosophy at Deux Roches is to craft wines that express the unique terroirs of the Mâconnais, while working the soil and respecting the vegetation. Their goal is to have perfection, which means mastering each step from the vineyard to bottle, and includes adapting to the year's weather conditions by evolving and experimenting with each parcel. Since 2017, Deux Roches has earned High Environmental Certification for their commitment to the environment, where they use natural processes and minimize inputs to anticipate disease and manage the vineyard, while also promoting and encouraging biodiversity. Collovray et Terrier also work to have the least possible environmental impact in the cellar, including minimizing the use of water and limiting energy use from non-renewable sources.

Domaine des Deux Roches has two lines of wines within their portfolio - the Timeless Collection and the single vineyard Parcel Selections. The Timeless Collection of wines are exemplary, accessible, and made for drinking and sharing with enjoyment for immediate pleasure. The Timeless Collection wines are blended from several vineyards and aged in stainless steel or oak. The aim of the Timeless Collection is to give true expression of the appellations, while also corresponding to their vision of the Mâconnais style - great classics that never cease to please!

This white wine is from Deux Roches' Timeless Collection. It is 100% Chardonnay from 60 to 100-year-old vines grown on the estate and from selected parcels grown by long-standing partner winegrowers who are friends and family. The vines are planted on mainly limestone clay hillsides near the Rocks of Solutré and Vergisson, and also at Chaintré and Fuissé. The selection of grapes from these sites allows Collovray et Terrier to produce a delicate, mineral wine, with bright and refined aromas, as well as a rich, solid structure. To vinify this wine, the grapes were harvested and gravity-fed into pneumatic presses. Pressing is long and slow to ensure that the juice is delicately extracted and to preserve aromatic finesse. The resulting must is cooled and decanted, followed by alcoholic fermentation in barrel, with 20% in 600 L demi-muids, and less than 10% is new wood, followed by ageing on its fine lees until spring. Inputs are restricted during the entire process, including the use of sulphur dioxide.

The 2021 vintage was a challenging one in Burgundy that began with a hard winter frost, along with pests and disease that wreaked havoc in the vineyards and reduced yields. It was a cool-ish summer, with wine quality determined by hard work in the vineyard and winery. Let's see how this 2021 Chardonnay from Pouilly-Fuissé in Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DEUX ROCHES VIEILLES VIGNES POUILLY-FUISSÉ 2021 - AP, Burgundy, France (#488825) (XD) - $49.95
100% Chardonnay. The medium+ to medium-high intensity nose takes a while to reveal the maturing, earthy, stony mineral aromas mingling with baked apple, lemon peel, and whiffs of mushroom and nut. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it is deliciously flavoured, structured, and complex with lovely orchard fruit, apple, pear, lemon citrus, white peach and spice flavours backed by nutty notes and a stony mineral core. It has zesty, well-structured acidity, while stony-leesy mineral, orchard fruit, citrus, and mushroom notes with touches of spice lingering on the long, crisp, and very juicy finish. An intriguing wine to enjoy on its own or with poultry and seafood over the next 3-4 years. Recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

One other wine from Collovray et Terrier's Deux Roches label can be found at the LCBO, while the entire portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Xavier Vignon Lirac 2020 (Rhône) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the follow-up to the excellent 2019 Xavier Vignon Lirac that I enjoyed nearly three years ago. This latest vintage arrived at the LCBO as part of last month's September 21 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Xavier Vins, a wine label that was established towards the end of the 20th century by celebrated French winemaker Xavier Vignon. The story begins while Xavier was studying in the faculty of pharmacy in the Champagne capital of Reims when he caught the wine bug thanks to a chance encounter with an oenologist. This encounter led to Xavier gaining valuable experience at several Champagne houses and was the beginning of his journey into the world of winegrowing and producing wine.

Today, Xavier Vignon is known for using his expertise in blending and deep understanding of terroir to produce high-quality wines from the Rhône Valley. The philosophy at Xavier Vignon is to use an unusual, original, and creative approach that combines daring with inspiration. His time in Champagne and Bordeaux left a lasting impression on him, with strong values in the freedom of blending and the notion of beginning with an idea before embarking on the creation of the wine. Furthermore, each year is different and a source of surprise. The art of blending different grape varieties imparts complexity to the wine, while also enhancing the terroir. As a means to achieve this philosophy, Xavier Vignon has a wide range of ingredients at his disposal, such as grapes, terroirs, parcels, exposures, altitudes, stainless steel, concrete, and wooden receptacles.

With Xavier's deep knowledge of each and every part of the Rhône Valley, he is able to start by selecting a soil, a parcel, and a varietal with the aim of creating the most loyal and harmonious composition possible. Wines are always the result of contrary or complementary unions, and by bringing together these different entities, it provides the opportunity for the best possible result. Therefore, each cuvée is a unique experience that is an expression of vintage, varietal or terroir. It is also a source of emotion that is guided by the pleasure of sharing, and an invitation to not only dream, but also to better understand those landscapes which Xavier holds close to his heart. Xavier Vignon strives to capture this little part of the southern Rhône in the bottle, to encapsulate all of its aromas, colours, and textures, with the ultimate goal of making people happy.

While the previous vintage was predominantly Grenache, the 2020 vintage is a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah. This cuvée was crafted using grapes from the heart of the Lirac appellation, one of the most southern Crus of the Rhône Valley and covers the best soils of four communes in the Gard. The grapes come from a selection of 15 parcels within the appellation that are mainly made up of rolled pebbles and clay soils. In the vineyard, the grapes were pruned using the goblet pruning method, which helps limit the sugar content and preserves freshness. In a sunny vintage such as 2020, goblet pruning allows natural acidity to be maintained. Upon determining the harvest dates by daily measurement of polyphenols in the berries, the grapes were manually harvested. It was fermented at a moderate temperature to favour soft diffusion of flavour compounds using 100% free-run juice, with extraction by gravity. All the Grenache was vinified and matured in concrete tanks. Meanwhile, 30% of the Syrah was matured in unheated Allier and Vosges barrels for 12 months, with the remainder matured in concrete tanks.

From an excellent growing season that delivered wines of finesse and elegance, let's see how this 2020 Lirac red from the southern Rhône Valley is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

XAVIER VIGNON LIRAC 2020 - AP, Rhône, France (#636183) (XD) - $23.95
Mostly aged in concrete tanks, this blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah has a ripe and spicy medium-high intensity nose that offers lovely black & red cherry, peppery spice, blackberry, and stony mineral aromas with touches of floral and oak spice. The dry, medium-full bodied palate shows elegance and finesse with delicious black raspberry, red & black cherry, peppery spice, and mineral flavours, joined by meaty and floral touches that add complexity. It's well-supported by juicy, well-balanced acidity and smooth, fine-grained, and well-structured tannins. It's nicely balanced throughout with savoury mineral notes lingering on the long, gently chalky finish, with excellent length. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 5+ years. Score: 90+ pts

Several lovely wines by Xavier Vignon are available at the LCBO, while the entire range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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