Tenuta San Guido Wine Tasting (Tuscany) - Wine Reviews

Back in September, I had a great opportunity to taste the latest wines by Tenuta San Guido - makers of the iconic Sassicaia Super Tuscan wine from Bolgheri - and after the structured tasting enjoyed a fine lunch at Stratus Restaurant in downtown Toronto.

The story of Tenuta San Guido begins with Mario Incisa della Rocchetta. The Marchesi Incisa della Rocchetta are among the protagonists of Italian history, from the early Middle Ages to the emergence of the Baroque age, and beyond. Mario was born into a Piedmontese family in 1899 and studied agriculture in Pisa and immediately cultivated a strong inclination for agronomy. By the 1920s, his dream was to find perfection in agriculture and respect for the land.

In 1930, Mario married Clarice della Gherardesca, a descendant of one of the oldest families in Tuscany, and moved to Maremma, Tuscany. In addition to a common passion for wine, Mario and Clarice also had a passion for thoroughbred horses - a family passion that continues to this day with an on-site stable and training centre. Countess Clarice was also the heiress to 2,500 hectares in the Bolgheri area: Tenuta San Guido.

Mario Incisa immediately realized Tenuta San Guido as one of the most extraordinary biotypes of Mediterranean Europe and began experimenting with some French grape varieties, concluding that Cabernet had the bouquet he was seeking. Recalling a time in the 1920s when Mario Incisa tasted a wine belonging to the Dukes Salviati di Migliarino, grown on the hill of San Giuliano, near Pisa, he asked Salviatis for some plants of their vines and planted the first Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard on the hills that gently descended towards the sea, below the fortress of Castiglioncello. He also noticed the similarity between this land in Bolgheri and the Graves area in Bordeaux, due to the mainly gravelly soil which is very favourable to the production of great red wines. In order to grow excellent quality fruit, he pruned drastically to obtain low-yields, and then introduced barrique for the ageing of fine wines, following the example of French producers.

Although no one considered Bolgheri an area suited for the cultivation of Cabernet Sauvignon before the 1940s, Tenuta San Guido benefits from a set of natural elements that favours this varietal. The soils are partially clayey and situated at an altitude between 100 and 400 meters above sea level, with west and southwest exposure, along with a strong presence of limestone areas rich in Alberese and Gabbro, as well as stones. The climate also has its own peculiarity with an amphitheatre of hills embracing the land that stretches from Bibbona to Castagneto, protecting the vineyards and olive groves from northeast winds, while in summer this corridor is cooled by winds generated between the valleys of the Cecina river. The energy and sunlight are reflected from the sea to the hills, which in turn retains the sea breeze and generates refreshing humidity. Situated within a range of 2,500 hectares, this area was found to have the ideal terroir for Sassicaia.

Sassicaia, the wine whose name is a toponym, was strictly a private product reserved for family and friends from 1945 to 1967. In 1971, the 1968 vintage was the first vintage available to the public and it received praise worthy of greatness and importance. In 1978, the 1972 Sassicaia was awarded first place at a Decanter magazine blind tasting among 33 Cabernet Sauvignons from around the world and moved towards becoming the iconic wine it is today. In order to recognize Mario's vision in creating a wine that gave Italian winemaking lustre and fame, Italy created the Bolgheri DOC appellation in 1983, and in 2013 the sub-appellation of DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia was created. Since Tenuta San Guido owns all of the land under the DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia appellation, Sassicaia is the only wine that is made in the appellation.

Today, Tenuta San Guido is led by Honorary President Nicolò Incisa della Rocchetta. son of Mario. Nicolò joined his father in 1955 to help manage the family business. The Incisa family had a relationship with the Antinori family through Nicolò's mother, Clarice, who was from the Della Gherardesca family. It was through this relationship that Nicolò worked with the young oenologist Giacomo Tachis to develop the first red Bordeaux blend in the history of Bolgheri - it was the aforementioned 1968 Sassicaia. Nicolò was instrumental in turning Tenuta San Guido into a modern estate that combined family traditions with the expertise of independent managers.

The bond that exists between the family and company is now represented by Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta, daughter of Nicolò and brand manager responsible for external relations, and her five cousins and their children. The estate covers 2,500 hectares, of which 90 hectares are devoted to the vineyards and the winery. The approach in the vineyard is always measured against the needs of the land. Vineyard management requires a great deal of time and care and is influenced by the seasonality to determine if any interventions are required, while the concepts of sustainability, integration, and conservation are also important prerequisites prior to taking any action. Harvest is carried out manually, while in the winery, they strive to create wines with balance, pleasantness, elegance, freshness, sinuous tannins, and longevity.

In addition to Sassicaia, Tenuta San Guido also produces two other wines - Guidalberto and Le Difese. We had the opportunity to taste all three wines during the structured tasting which was led by Priscilla. After taking us through each of the fantastic wines, including some back vintages, we also had the opportunity to pair the wines with lunch. Reviews of all of the wines tasted are provided below, with the latest vintages available for purchase through the Agent - Sylvestre Wines & Spirits, or at the LCBO in the coming months.

Tasting Notes:

TENUTA SAN GUIDO LE DIFESE 2020 - IGT Toscana, Italy (#147876) (XD) - $38.95
First produced in 2002 and traditionally more Cab Sauv than Sangiovese, this vintage is a blend of 55% Sangiovese and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the Sangiovese purchased from two estates. From a warm vintage that was good for early ripening varieties, this has a clean, ripe, medium-high to highly aromatic nose of dark cherry-berry, currant, and clove with hints of cassis, as well as elegant wood spice aromas. Some beautiful floral notes emerge with time in glass. On the medium to medium-full bodied palate it offers elegant, fine-grained, and gritty tannins that have some structure. Very nice aroma replays are nicely balanced on the palate. Clove, currant, and dark cherry replays linger on the long, succulent finish. Coming to LCBO VINTAGES May 2023. Score: 92 pts

TENUTA SAN GUIDO GUIDALBERTO 2020 - IGT Toscana, Italy (#72439) (XD) - $66.95
A 50/50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that is fresh, yet seems shy with crushed dark red berry, currant, and cassis aromas with savoury undertones. It’s medium-full bodied on the crunchy palate with tight tannins. Very nice aroma replays on the flavour profile are joined by licorice, and wild herbs. It has fresh acidity and excellent length on the long, balanced, finish. Still a bit young and should age nicely up to a decade from now. Coming to LCBO VINTAGES March 2023. Score: 93 pts

TENUTA SAN GUIDO GUIDALBERTO 2015 - IGT Toscana, Italy (#72439) (XD)
Named after Guidalberto della Gherardesca, the ancestor who made the greatest contribution to the territory’s agricultural and viticultural history. This blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot has a lovely, perfumed, highly aromatic nose of currant, cassis, red & black fruits, with savoury, wet earth, forest floor undertones. It’s medium-full bodied with smooth, refined tannins that have some structure and is still a bit tight. Nicely balanced aroma replays with elegance on the palate. Balanced acids. Long, dark berry, currant, and earthy finish. Score: 93 pts

SASSICAIA 2019 - DOC Bolgheri-Sassicaia, Tuscany, Italy (#480533) (XD) - $249.95
A traditional blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. From a very regular, steady vintage, this has a medium-high to highly aromatic nose that offers a lovely perfume of red & black fruits, currant, cherry, wet earth, and forest floor, with touches of florality. It’s medium-full to full-bodied with lovely aroma replays plus spice notes and smooth, structured, and elegant tannins that are balanced with fresh acidity. Nicely balanced flavours throughout, tapering to a very long, currant, dark berry, and wet earth finish. Score: 96 pts

SASSICAIA 2018 - DOC Bolgheri-Sassicaia, Tuscany, Italy (#480533) (XD)
85/15 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. First made in 1968 and celebrating its 50th vintage, the perfumed, medium-high to highly aromatic nose offers fresh dark and red berry, currant, and cassis notes with touches of purple fruit and floral. On the medium-full to full-bodied palate it has fresh acidity and lovely aroma replays. Smooth, structured, and dusty textured tannins are very nicely balanced throughout. Attractive fruit and savoury earthy interplays on the finish, with excellent length. Very approachable now and will continue to age well into the late 2030s. Score: 96 pts

SASSICAIA 2010 - DOC Bolgheri-Sassicaia, Tuscany, Italy (#480533) (XD)
Blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc from a fresher vintage and long harvest. Beautiful, highly aromatic, maturing nose of dried cherry, rose florals, and savoury wet earth. Wow! Lovely smooth, refined, finely textured tannins on the medium-full to full-bodied palate with lovely aroma replays plus some earthy mineral notes on the flavour profile. Juicy, well-balanced acids. Very nice, very long, earthy mineral finish. Will continue to drink well for another 10+ years. Score: 97 pts

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13th Street Cuvée Rosé Brut NV (Niagara) - Wine Review (Dec. 2022)

For tonight's sparkling wine review, I opened this excellent sparkling rose wine from Niagara that is a VINTAGES Essentials product at the LCBO and is readily available throughout the year. You will want to get your hands on it today as it is currently on promotion at $3 off until January 1st.

Like the lovely 2020 13th Street Blanc de Blanc that I enjoyed last month, this bubbly is crafted by 13th Street Winery - Niagara's sparkling wine specialists. Established in 1998 in St. Catharines, Ontario, 13th Street was acquired in 2008 by the Mann and Whitty families - John & June Mann and Doug & Karen Whitty. Both families have deep roots in the Niagara community and started out as four amateur winemaker friends. As owner, partners, and friends, Doug and Karen Whitty and John and June Mann share a common love of wine, food, art, and a genuine heart for hospitality, and had a strong desire to create exceptional wines that reflect the unique terroir of Niagara.

In 2009, talented winemaker Jean-Pierre Colas, originally from Chablis, France, joined 13th Street and success soon followed. Jean-Pierre's winemaking philosophy is that great wines come from the best grapes grown in the best vineyards, with winemaking techniques only utilized to supplement and capture the very essence of the grapes' terroir and character. 13th Street's success has culminated with them being awarded the #1 Winery in Ontario and #2 in Canada at the 2022 National Wine Awards of Canada.

I most recently enjoyed the 13th Street Cuvée Rosé Brut in December 2020, and while that bottling was predominantly Pinot Noir, this particular edition is composed of 54% Chardonnay and 46% Pinot Noir. Since the wine is a majority of Chardonnay, the white grape provides structure and backbone, while the Pinot Noir provides fruit, power, and richness. Crafted in a dry style, this sparkling wine was fermented and aged in the traditional method, undergoing second fermentation in the final bottle, and was aged sur lattes (en tirage) for a minimum of 18 months during which the bubbles became smaller and more compact, while also developing a slight autolytic, or toast and bread character. After dosage mixed with reserve Pinot Noir was added, the wine was aged a further 3 months prior to release. Let's see how this delicious, locally-crafted pink bubbly is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

13TH STREET CUVÉE ROSÉ BRUT NV - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#147504) (XD) - $29.95 $26.95 until Jan. 1.
Pretty pink-orange colour, this blend of 54% Chardonnay and 46% Pinot Noir has a fragrant, medium-high intensity nose with attractive aromas of strawberry, red cherry, autolytic, watermelon, and peach with touches of toast and pastry. On the medium+ bodied palate it is clean and crisp, with fine mousse that delivers lightly honeyed, yet dry, flavours of strawberry, red cherry, raspberry, lemon, and peach. Fresh acidity is clean and crisp, with a succulent, slightly chalky mouthfeel on the mid-palate. Lovely red berry and strawberry flavours are joined by mineral notes on the long-lasting, dry finish. Always a delight and my favourite bottling so far. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Other lovely wines by 13th Street are available at the LCBO and direct through the winery in Niagara.

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El Esteco Blend de Extremos Malbec 2021 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a lovely, high-altitude Malbec from Argentina. This new arrival landed at the LCBO recently as part of the December 17 LCBO VINTAGES Release. (Although the VINTAGES magazine and LCBO website may list 2020, it's actually the 2021 vintage that arrived in stores.)

It is produced by El Esteco, a pioneering institution founded in 1892 that was one of the first in Argentina to master the art of viticulture and winemaking. They are situated in northwestern Argentina in the heart of the Calchaquí Valleys - a hidden treasure in the summit of the world and a gem in the world of winemaking. With nearly 1,000 acres of vineyards, El Esteco condenses all the spirit of the region in their fruit. El Esteco also stands at an ideal elevation of more than 1,700 metres (5,500 feet) above sea level and benefits from ever-present sunshine and a perfect diurnal temperature range, an environment that is perfect for the creation of fine wines. El Esteco is surrounded by vineyards and housed in a 100-year-old, iconic vallisto Spanish colonial-style building, while inside the winery they have the latest wine production technologies such as concrete containers, stainless steel tanks, and French and American oak barrels, all of which allow them to craft wines of diverse styles, aromas, and flavours.

This red wine is from their Blend de Extremos range of wines that aim to perfect the balance between two different expressions of the Calchaquí Valley - the Cafayate with its potent base and characteristics, and Chañar Punco, an exclusive region with highly valued vines that pours its virtues into its wines. Blend de Extremos wines are an adventure that merges the best of two extreme regions.

The Malbec in this wine comes from Finca La Maravilla in Cafayate, which situated at 1,700 metres above sea level, and Finca Chañar Punco which is situated even higher at 2,000 metres above sea level. In Cafayate, the broad temperature range is marked by warm days and cold nights, allowing for the development of ripe berries that condense all the best that the region has to offer. The desert climate and soils, which are poor in organic matter, help define the unique terroir in Cafayate, allowing El Esteco to produce distinct wines with great concentration of colour, deep aromas and well-defined flavours.

Chañar Punco is a a hidden treasure at the top of the world. A unique sub-region surrounded by the Quilmes Mountains, Chañar Punco is located in the southwest of the Calchaquí Valley and has poor, rocky, and calcareous soils combined with the scarce heat load and radiation in the months prior to harvest, thus allowing the grapes to slowly develop its maximum expression. The vineyards in Chañar Punco run north-south, allowing moderate winds from the north to improve the microclimate of the canopy, while distilled water is pumped deep from the soil, along with drip irrigation to hydrate the vines. Let's see how this Malbec from Calchaquí Valleys is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

EL ESTECO BLEND DE EXTREMOS MALBEC 2021 - Valles Calchaquíes, Argentina (#24863) (XD) - $18.95
Screw cap. This unoaked Malbec from Cafayate and Chañar Punco has a funky, reductive nose off the top, revealing dark berry, plum, black and blueberry and subtle white pepper spice aromas. It's medium+ bodied with spicy flavours of dark berry, blackberry, blueberry, and dried herb, with some mineral notes, all backed by fresh, balanced acidity and smooth, refined tannins that have a subtle chalky grip. Minerally with subtle spice and dried herb notes linger on the finish, with very good length. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by El Esteco can be ordered through their Agent - Dandurand.

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Brilla! Extra Dry Prosecco (Italy) - Wine Review

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays! Tonight's sparkling wine review is a delicious bubbly that I purchased a couple of weeks ago in preparation for holiday gatherings. This Prosecco made its debut in LCBO VINTAGES a couple of years ago and has quickly become a customer favourite with its unique, eye-catching, and sparkling packaging.

Tasting Note:

BRILLA! EXTRA DRY PROSECCO - DOC, Italy (#13836) (D) - $19.95
Crafted with 100% Glera, the medium intensity nose offers fresh aromas of lemon, peach, and apricot with touches of floral. It's medium+ bodied with crisp acidity and fine mousse, with just off-dry flavours of lemon, floral, peach, and ripe apple with touches of honeysuckle. It has a pleasing, crisp mouthfeel that lingers through to faintly mineral finish, with good length. Solid A for packaging, while the juice inside is highly quaffable and widely appealing. Score: 87 pts

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Esk Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2020 (New Zealand) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a lovely white wine from New Zealand that arrived at the LCBO last weekend as part of the December 17th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Esk Valley Wines, a brand that was created in the 1970s, but whose story begins in the 1930s as Glenvale Winery and a specialist in fortified wines. In 1986, the historic winery in Hawkes Bay was purchased from the Bird family by George Fistonich, owner of Villa Maria. Esk Valley quickly developed a reputation for its innovative and quality wines, breaking boundaries by introducing new grape varieties and wine styles to Hawkes Bay.

Today, Esk Valley Wines are crafted by winemaker Gordon Russell, one of New Zealand's most recognized winemaking identities. Born in New Plymouth, New Zealand, he developed an appreciation for wine while in England and Europe and when he returned to NZ, he joined Villa Maria in Auckland in 1987 and was appointed Winemaker of Esk Valley Wines in 1993. Gordon strives to make wines that tell the story of the vineyard, and with his many years of experience he has learned that paying attention to detail in the vineyard results in the winemaking process becoming a simple, hands-off affair. Gordon is passionate about using concrete fermenting tanks, and continues to use them even after Esk Valley moved its production in 2018 to the new facility in Gimblett Gravels.

Although Esk Valley Wines is based in Hawkes Bay, they do craft wines using fruit from other wine regions in New Zealand, such as this white wine from Marlborough. Labelled as a regional blend, this 100% Sauvignon Blanc is crafted with fruit from stony vineyard sites, with 72% coming from the cooler Awatere Valley and 28% from the Wairau Valley. The Wairau Valley fruit provides structure and tropical fruit notes, while the Awatere Vineyard offers acidity and pungent notes of nettle, pea pods, and gooseberry. All of the vineyards are carefully managed and crop thinned in the pursuit of quality fruit. To craft this wine, individual vineyard parcels were harvested and transported to the winery for immediate pressing to capture the freshness of the fruit. It was fermented at cool temperatures using selected yeast strains and then left on its lees to gain richness and complexity prior being blended and bottled in November 2020.

The growing season in 2020 was a winemaker's dream harvest as good sized crops were ripened under clear, blue skies. The days were warm and dry, while the nights were cool enough for the vines to rest and retaining acidity in the fruit, thus bringing freshness to the wines. Let's see how this 2020 Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ESK VALLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2020 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#12638) (XD) - $21.95
Screw cap. The fragrant nose has classic NZ Sauvignon Blanc aromas of gooseberry and nettle, plus lemon/lime citrus and touches of tropical fruit with mineral undertones. There is good weight on the medium-full bodied, dry palate with delicious gooseberry, nettle, and tart lemon/lime citrus replays, plus grapefruit on the flavour profile. Nicely balanced throughout with crisp and vibrant acidity. Leesy mineral notes come to the fore on the creamy, long, and succulent finish. Recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Since there is very limited availability of other fine wines by Esk Valley at the LCBO, you're best bet to order them through their Agent - Univins & Spiritueux.

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Lungarotti IlBio Rosso 2020 (Umbria) - Wine Review

After enjoying the 2016 Lungarotti IlBio Rosso a couple of years ago, tonight's organic red wine review is the latest vintage of this IGT wine from Umbria that arrived at the LCBO over the weekend as part the December 17 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Founded in the early 1960s by Giorgio Lungarotti when he brought together the farms of a few families, Cantine Lungarotti soon became a major force in the comune of Torgiano, where it is based, as well as throughout Umbria, opening up new opportunities with wine as the centrepiece. Although the establishment Cantine Lungarotti is fairly recent, the Lungarotti family history goes back to the 1700s when they were farmers in the Middle Tiber Valley. It was during this time that family began to realize the potential of the Umbrian land to produce wine and oil. The mid-1990s marked the beginning of the replanting of vineyards according to new agronomic techniques with an eyes towards ecological conscience. In 2010, Lungarotti began the organic cultivation of 20 hectares of vines at the Montefalco Estate and in 2017 they launched their first organic wine - the 2015 IlBio Rosso.

Depicted on the label of this organic red wine is the land registry map of the Lungarotti Azienda Agraria's Montefalco Estate, which is located along provincial road SP 445 that connects Montefalco with the sanctuary of Madonna della Stella. In the past, land registry maps used to list the principal elements of each farm such as number of inhabitants and workers, crops, and yields. In a similar fashion, Lungarotti has listed the main characteristics of both the vineyard where they grow grapes, as well as of the wine itself.

Not listed on the label are the grapes used to craft this red wine. Although the back label mentions that it is produced using the "King" of the varietals of Montefalco, Italian wine law states that the varietal can only be indicated on the label when it is a local DOCG wine. In Montefalco, a DOCG wine is very structured and complex. However, because Lungarotti wanted to craft a more pleasant and appealing wine, it was vinified at lower temperatures and limited its extraction, resulting in a wine that is classified as an IGT. This organic red wine is, in fact, crafted with 100% Sagrantino, that was grown at 350 metres above sea level on medium mixture soils with light skeleton and well-draining sub-soils at average depth. The vineyards are exposed to the south and southwest. It was fermented in stainless steel and then aged for 10 months in 30 hectolitre casks, followed by further refinement in bottle for 6 months. Let's see how this latest Sagrantino from Umbria is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LUNGAROTTI ILBIO ROSSO 2020 - IGT Umbria, Italy (#16573) (XD) - $26.95
Crafted with Sagrantino, this organic wine has a medium+ intensity nose offering a pleasing mix of red cherry, wet earth, and and sweet baking spice aromas with touches of dried floral, cinnamon, currant, and sweet tobacco. It's medium+ bodied with structured, gritty, chalky, and drying tannins along with fresh acidity. Flavours of red and dark cherries, savoury wet earth, and tobacco. There's some warmth on the mid-palate, while savoury woodsmoke notes linger on the finish, with good length. Enjoy with salty protein. Score: 88+ pts

Other lovely wines by Lungarotti can be found not only at the LCBO, but also through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Closerie des Alisiers Trilogie de Terroirs Pouilly-Fuissé 2020 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is an excellent Chardonnay from Burgundy that is new to the LCBO, arriving in stores this weekend as part of the LCBO VINTAGES Release on December 17.

It is produced by Stéphane Brocard, son of renowned Chablis winemaker Jean-Marc Brocard. After it started getting a bit too crowded at his father's family business, Stéphane set out on his own in 2007 and moved to Marsannay, founding his Trading House and the Closerie des Alisiers property in Chablis. In addition to owning his own vines in Pommard and the village of Daix, Stéphane set up a boutique négociant business contracting small parcels of carefully selected grapes because he had an intimate knowledge of the region, as well as the drive to blaze his own trail. He works with the same winegrowers and plots year after year to offer authentic wines based on purity of fruit and freshness, while also having the greatest respect for the terroir and environment. He encourages his vignerons to use organic farming methods and champions minimal intervention at all stages of production. Between Closerie des Alisiers and the wines of their partner estates, Maison Stéphane Brocard covers all of the appellations and diversity of Burgundy.

Crafted with 100% Chardonnay, this particular wine is called Trilogy of Terroirs because the grapes come from the three same selected plots, year after year, in the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation of the Mâconnais subregion in Burgundy. Grown within the communes of Solutré and Vergisson, the 70-year-old vines are based on limestone soils with very hard fossil corals. The vineyards are situated on fairly steep slopes with exposure to the east and south-east, and between 200 to 300 metres above sea level. The vines are tended to in reasoned culture with the greatest respect for the soil and the environment.

The growing season in 2020 in Burgundy produced classic wines despite the hot and dry conditions, and the wines of the vintage can be characterized and fresh, vibrant, and classically styled. From an exceptional year, let's see how this 2020 white wine from Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CLOSERIE DES ALISIERS TRILOGIE DE TERROIRS POUILLY-FUISSÉ 2020 - AC, Burgundy, France (#26440) (XD) - $37.95
This 100% Chardonnay has a nose that seems a bit shy and tight, but with some coaxing offers ripe lemon citrus, mineral, apple, melon, and peach aromas with nutty notes emerging with time in the glass. It is beautifully structured on the medium to medium-full bodied on the nicely balanced palate with spicy apple, lemon citrus, melon flavours with a twist of honey. It has fresh and firm acidity, while mineral, nut, and mealy notes emerge on the long, juicy, and mouth-watering finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92+ pts

Other excellent wines by Maison Stéphane Brocard can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Lakeview Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Icewine 2017 (Niagara) - Wine Review

After enjoying the excellent 2019 Lakeview Cellars Gewürztraminer Icewine last month, tonight's Icewine review is another lovely Icewine from the same producer. This lovely red Icewine returned to the LCBO today as part of the December 17 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Lakeview Cellars was established in Vineland in 1991 by Eddy Gurinskas. Today, Lakeview Cellars is the oldest of several wine brands owned by Diamond Estates Wines & Spirits Inc. and is situated at Lakeview Wine Co. on Niagara Stone Road in Niagara-on-the-Lake.

At present, Thomas Green is the Vice-President of Winemaking and Winery Operations at Lakeview. He began his career at Lakeview Cellars as an apprentice to winemaking under Eddy. After graduating in 2000 as part of the first graduating class of Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture (CCOVI) at Brock University, Thomas remained at Lakeview Cellars and worked with Eddy for three more years until Eddy retired. In 2003, Thomas took over head winemaking duties at Lakeview Cellars, and then Diamond Estates in 2005. As a nostalgic brand for Thomas, he is proud that Lakeview Cellars has built a worldwide reputation for creating exquisite Niagara wines that are both high in quality and affordable. Although the label has changed over the years, the high quality wines produced by Lakeview Cellars has remained consistent for over two decades.

Crafted with 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, the frozen grapes were harvested in early December when temperatures fell between -10°C and -13°C, After settling the juice in stainless steel tanks, a cool fermentation was completed in late-February when the wine was placed outdoors to stop fermentation and complete a natural cold stabilization. Let's see how this Cabernet Sauvignon Icewine from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LAKEVIEW CELLARS CABERNET SAUVIGNON ICEWINE 2017 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#471813) (S) (200 mL) - $39.95
Pours a medium garnet colour. The lovely, highly aromatic nose is open, fresh, and fragrant with ripe raspberry, strawberry jam, cran-cherry, and plum aromas, plus subtle spice notes. It's medium to medium-full bodied on the sweet palate with lovely strawberry jam, raspberry, cran-cherry, and subtle spice flavour replays. Harmonious and well-balanced throughout with a subtle chalky mouthfeel adding a nice textural element. Fresh, lively, and juicy acidity holds it all together, while the red berry flavours give way to faintly mineral notes on the long, juicy finish. Delicious and a highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Other lovely Icewines and table wines from Lakeview Cellars are available at the LCBO and direct through the winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake.

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Jean-Marc Brocard Sainte Claire Chablis 2020 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely Chardonnay that is coming to the LCBO this weekend as part of the December 17 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Jean-Marc Brocard, a family domaine that was established in 1973 in the center of Chablis, in Burgundy. Since the beginning, Jean-Marc Brocard was committed to a healthier culture and respectful of the environment. As one of the first organic wine producers in Chablis and Burgundy, in 1997 they converted their first plot of 11 hectares to organic and biodynamic farming. Today, the domaine covers 144 hectares with more than 60 hectares certified organic farming and 40 hectares biodynamic.

In 1995, Jean-Marc's son, Julien, joined the family domaine to work alongside his father. Julien is also passionate about biodynamics and traditional methods. Their logo is an ammonite - a life force, the spiral is naturally present in nature and is a symbol and creation and fulfillment, it also characterizes the Broacrd family's commitment to continuous improvement.

The unique style of Brocard wines are focuses around three words - precision, strength, and freshness. Precision involves accurately conveying the terroir, the memory of the soil transmitted from vine to wine, and the pure typical characteristics of the Chablis soil with its marine sediments deposited during the Jurassic era. Strength is conveyed in the structure of a wine that is powerful and long on the palate, while also appreciating the complexity of a terroir. Freshness is the a natural acidity that is born of the land's minerality, giving this wine its signature tautness.

One of quite a few Chablis wines in the Jean-Marc Brocard portfolio, this particular wine is from their Sainte Claire Vineyard which boasts Kimmeridgian limestone soils. It is crafted with 100% Chardonnay from 60-year-old vines and fermented with indigenous yeast. This Chablis expresses with a great deal of finesse the typicity of its Kimmeridgian soils, along with the singularity of Jean-Marc Brocard's wines through its strength, precision, and freshness.

From an early, yet classic vintage with superb quality, let's see how this 2020 Chablis is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

JEAN-MARC BROCARD SAINTE CLAIRE CHABLIS 2020 - AC, Burgundy, France (#356634) (XD) - $28.95
This single vineyard 100% Chardonnay is from 60-year-old vines grown on Kimmeridgian limestone soils and fermented with indigenous yeast. Intense, flinty mineral aromas off the top with notes of lemon citrus, apple, and butter laying underneath with melon and nutty hints, and a touch of reduction. It's medium-full bodied, well-structured, and creamy on the dry palate with lightly honeyed flavours of lemon citrus, mineral, apple-pear, and melon with nutty and mealy hints adding further complexity and interest. Acids are crisp and mouth-wateringly juicy. Excellent length with mineral, nut, and mealy notes lingering on the crisp, juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

A Chablis 1er Cru from Jean-Marc Brocard also arrived at the LCBO in this release, while other wines from their portfolio can be found at the LCBO or ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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December 17, 2022 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: Festive Sparklers

The final release of the year is the December 17, 2022 LCBO VINTAGES Release and it's theme is focused on sparkling wines for festive celebrations. Also included in this release are selection of Flagship and Online Exclusive wines. All of these wines should be available in stores or online by this Saturday.

We start with the theme on Festive Sparkling Wines, with a dozen wines featured, but just one included among my top sparkling wine picks - a non-vintage Prosecco crafted with 100% Glera. Fear not, there are many other delightful bubblies throughout the release, including an excellent local offering from Niagara that is a blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir. There is also a higher-end vintage Prosecco which is made with 100% Glera, while both wines from Champagne are blends of consisting of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with all three sparkling wines only available online or at Flagship locations.

Among my top red wine picks, the Wine of the Month is from Roussillon and it is a blend of 60% Syrah, 30% Mourvedre, and 10% Grenache. Other blends include a Chilean red that consists of 95% Syrah and 5% Roussanne, while the Rioja is a blend of 76% Tempranillo, 22% Garnacha, and 2% Viura. The last of the blends is the Cabernet Sauvignon from Alexander Valley which is actually consists of 94.8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4.2% Merlot, and 1% Cabernet Franc, while the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is crafted with mainly Sangiovese, plus small quantities of complementary varieties. Single varietals wines from Italy include the Brunello di Montalcino that is made with Sangiovese, the Barolo made with Nebbiolo, and the wine from Umbria that is made with Sagrantino, while the wine from Beaujolais in France is crafted with Gamay.

The aren't any blends among my white wine recommendations, but it is a Chardonnay wine lover's delight with five wines in total coming from Burgundy and California, as well as a pair of lovely Sauvignon Blanc wines from New Zealand. From Italy, the white wine from Sicily is made with the indigenous Carricante, and from Piedmont there is a nice Arneis. For those that prefer wines with some sweetness, you'll want to pick up the medium-sweet Riesling from Niagara.

Enjoy my top wine recommendations from release and have a safe and happy holiday!

Red Wine:

• HOLLICK THE BARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019 - Coonawarra, South Australia (#18525) (XD) - $17.95
• EL ESTECO BLEND DE EXTREMOS MALBEC 2021 - Valles Calchaquíes, Argentina (#24863) (XD) - $18.95  89 pts  wine review
• EMILIANA SALVAJE SYRAH/ROUSSANNE 2021 - Vegan, Valle Casablanca, Chile (#19246) (XD) - $19.95
• VENTISQUERO GREY GLACIER SINGLE BLOCK CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019 - Trinidad Vineyard, Valle del Maipo, Chile (#485474) (XD) - $19.95  91+ pts  wine review
• CHÂTEAU ROMBEAU L'ÉLEVÉ CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON-VILLAGES 2018 - AP, Languedoc, France (#28411) (XD) - $21.95
• DOMAINE ANITA TRES VIEILLES VIGNES LES CAVES MOULIN-À-VENT 2020 - AC, Beaujolais, France (#28706) (XD) - $21.95  FE

• LUNGAROTTI ILBIO ROSSO 2020 - IGT Umbria, Italy (#16573) (XD) - $26.95  88+ pts  wine review
• DEI VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO 2018 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#285510) (XD) - $34.95
• COL D'ORCIA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2017 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#306852) (XD) - $54.95  92+ pts  wine review
• ROCCHE COSTAMAGNA ROCCHE DELL'ANNUNZIATA BAROLO 2017 - DOCG, Piedmont, Italy (#413484) (XD) - $54.95
• HERMANOS HERNÁIZ FINCA LA EMPERATRIZ VIÑEDO SINGULAR TINTO 2017 - DOCa Rioja, Spain (#16594) (XD) - $58.95  FE
• SILVER OAK ALEXANDER VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2018 - Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California, USA (#943472) (XD) - $143.95  93 pts  wine review

White Wine:

• TENUTA FRATELLI POVERO TERRE DEL CONTE ROERO ARNEIS 2021 - DOCG, Piedmont, Italy (#436915) (XD) - $17.95
• ROCKWAY VINEYARDS RIESLING 2020 - Small lot, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#30739) (M) - $20
• ESK VALLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2020 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#12638) (XD) - $21.95  90 pts  wine review
• AUNTSFIELD SINGLE VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021 - Sustainable, Southern Valleys, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#663286) (XD) - $21.95
• TORNATORE ETNA BIANCO 2021 - DOC, Sicily, Italy (#577676) (XD) - $24.95
• JEAN-MARC BROCARD SAINTE CLAIRE CHABLIS 2020 - AC, Burgundy, France (#356634) (XD) - $28.95  91 pts  wine review
• CLOSERIE DES ALISIERS TRILOGIE DE TERROIRS POUILLY-FUISSÉ 2020 - AC, Burgundy, France (#26440) (XD) - $37.95  92+ pts  wine review
• HARTFORD COURT RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY CHARDONNAY 2020 - Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, California, USA (#404277) (XD) - $44.95
• DOMAINE JEAN-MARC BROCARD CÔTE DE LÉCHET CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2020 - AC, Burgundy, France (#181305) (XD) - $48.95  FE
• CALERA MT. HARLAN CHARDONNAY 2019 - Mt. Harlan, Central Coast, California, USA (#16406) (XD) - $70.95  FE

Sparkling Wine:

• BELCANTO DI BELLUSSI SPECIAL CUVÉE EXTRA DRY PROSECCO DI VALDOBBIADENE SUPERIORE - DOCG, Italy (#53215) (D) - $21.95  89 pts  wine review
• 13TH STREET PREMIER CUVÉE SPARKLING 2015 - Traditional method, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#142679) (XD) - $39.95
• PRIMO FRANCO GRAVE DI STECCA BRUT PROSECCO 2016 - DOC, Veneto, Italy (#422758) (D) - $48.95  FE
  
• FRESNE DUCRET LA GRANDE HERMINE 1ER CRU CHAMPAGNE 2008 - AC, France (#14636) (XD) - $79.95  FE
• MARC HEBRART MES FAVORITES VIEILLES VIGNES BRUT CHAMPAGNE 1ER CRU - Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, AC, France (#26655) (XD) - $79.95  FE

Dessert Wine:

• LAKEVIEW CELLARS CABERNET SAUVIGNON ICEWINE 2017 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#471813) (S) (200 mL) - $39.95  92 pts  wine review

Fortified Wine:

• CALEM 20-YEAR-OLD TAWNY PORT - DOP, Portugal (#10902) (S) - $56.95

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Creekside Iconoclast Syrah 2020 (Niagara) - Wine Review

For tonight's red wine review, I am sipping local with this lovely Niagara Syrah that arrived at the LCBO a couple of months ago as part of the October 8th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Founded in 1997 by Laura McCain in Jordan, Ontario, and acquired by Diamond Estates Wines & Spirits Inc. last August, Creekside Estate Winery has been a leader in producing premium wines of distinctive, eclectic blends, and introducing grape varieties to Niagara that have expanded the horizons of the region. The winery is run by a passionate, and some say fanatical, group of industry veterans, including winemaker Rob Power, who have decades of experience in their respective fields. The team of self-described cork dorks love what they do, and have fun doing it. Early on, Creekside was outside of the mainstream fold as their signature wines were Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah - neither very common in Niagara back then.

Creekside first began extensively planting Syrah in the late 1990's. With each passing vintage, they witnessed first-hand the grape's huge potential and now, more than two decades later, Syrah is what Creekside is best known for. With the grape's popularity surging and having garnered many awards over the years, Creekside has developed a reputation as a pioneer in Canadian Syrah.

This particular bottling is from Creekside's Iconoclast range of wines. Iconoclasts in history are those that ignore conventional practice and lead the charge for change, and the Iconoclast bottlings reflect that pioneering spirit.

Personally, I'm a big fan of Syrah in general, and have been a Niagara Syrah wine lover for many years now. I've enjoyed quite a few previous vintages of this wine over the years, last writing about the 2012 Creekside Iconoclast Niagara Syrah a few years ago, and am ecstatic to see what this latest vintage tastes like. This wine always includes a dollop of Viognier, and for the 2020 vintage it is a co-fermented blend of 99.4% Syrah and 0.6% Viognier. All of the fruit for this wine was selected from their Queenston Road Vineyard's three nuanced blocks in the VQA St. David’s Bench sub-appellation of Niagara-on-the-Lake, an area that is typically warmer than where the winery is located and offers a slightly longer growing season that is ideal for Syrah. The Queenston Road Vineyard is known as the birthplace of the Syrah-volution in Niagara. The grapes were fermented in stainless steel tanks and individual fruit bins. It was aged for 19 months in mostly older, neutral oak, and mostly French with a little bit of Hungarian and American.

From the highly-acclaimed 2020 vintage that has been described as one of the best ever with wines showing elegance and balance, let's see how this 2020 Niagara Syrah is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CREEKSIDE ICONOCLAST SYRAH 2020 - VQA St. David's Bench, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (#471797) (XD) - $25.00
A co-fermented blend of 99.4% Syrah and 0.6% Viognier enclosed by screw cap. Ripe, fragrant, and wonderfully perfumed aromas of great intensity rise out of the glass with dark berry, black pepper, spices, meaty, and dark plum notes with hints of purple fruit and florals. It's medium-full bodied, ripe and quite chewy on the palate with lovely, balanced aroma replays supported by fresh acidity and ripe, firm, and grainy tannins. Finishes long, juicy, and minerally with subtle smoky notes. Enjoyable now, but will reward ageing and drink well over the next 5 years or so. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Other lovely wines by Creekside are available at the LCBO and direct through the winery in Niagara.

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Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Marnes et Caillottes Sancerre 2020 (Loire) - Wine Review

A perennial favourite, tonight's white wine review is this excellent Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre that came to the LCBO last weekend as part of the December 3 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Jean-Max Roger, a winemaking family that descends from a long line of winegrowers dating back to at least the 17th century in the village of Bué, in Sancerre of the Loire Valley. Up until the 1960s, the Roger practised mixed farming and animal rearing, but when Jean-Max Roger took over in the 1970s from what his parents left him, he (along with his wife Nicole) focused on the 4 hectares of vineyards they had and developed the estate to become one of the top producers in the Loire. They passed on their love for wine and terroir to their sons, and in 2004 Thibault and Etienne, two of their three sons, joined their father at the estate.

Today, Thibault and Etienne continue to define the estate's identity, which is comprised of 34 hectares of land, of which 28 hectares are in the Sancerre appellation. There are more than forty plots of land which offer exceptional diversity of exposure, slope and soil profiles, and are dispersed among the region's three most renowned terroirs - Caillottes (stony calcareous clay soil), Kimmeridgian Marl or Terres Blanches (clayey calcareous clay soil), and Flint (siliceous clay soil). As a complementary team, Thibault and Etienne perpetuate the family know-how and techniques that they are perfecting vintage after vintage. Along with their winemaking expertise, the various terroirs allows each of their wines to express all of the uniqueness of their terroirs through their structure, elegance and finesse.

This Sancerre is crafted with 100% Sauvignon Blanc that was grown in various vineyards within the villages of Bué & Amigny, with soils consisting of Kimmeridgian Marls called "Marnes" and Limestone called "Caillottes", hence the name of the wine. The vines are between 5 and 40 years of age and grown to reveal its terroir, while also using organic techniques and respecting soil life. In the winery, the grapes go through a pneumatic press and a long, temperature-controlled fermentation using natural yeasts. The wine is aged on heavy lees to develop minerality, and fined and filtered prior to bottling at the estate using their own facilities.

I enjoyed the 2019 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Marnes et Caillottes Sancerre in August of last year and am excited to try the latest vintage. The winter leading up to the 2020 growing season was the warmest ever recorded the Loire Valley, but also featured periods of intense rains that fully replenished the soils. March and April were alternately warm and cool, while late-April and May were very warm. July began cool, but then turned very warm, while August was hot. Harvest began after some welcome rains at the end of August, leading into fine weather for the month of September. The 2020 vintage was another excellent vintage in the Loire Valley with wines showing excellent concentration, freshness, and poise.

This white wine is quite possibly my favourite wine in the Jean-Max Roger portfolio. Let's see how this 2020 Sancerre is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE MARNES ET CAILLOTTES SANCERRE 2020 - AC, Loire, France (#196667) (XD) - $33.95
Lovely, intense, and ripe aromas of lemon citrus, melon, and grapefruit with touches of tropical fruit, all underpinned by fine, stony minerality. It has very good fruit concentration on the medium-full bodied palate with ripe, slightly honeyed and gently spicy flavours of lemon citrus, melon, grapefruit, apple, peach, and tropical fruits framed by fresh and elegant acidity. Nicely balanced throughout with fine, leesy mineral notes lingering on the long, crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Both the Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Les Caillottes Sancerre 2019 and Cuvée Genèse Sancerre 2020 that I enjoyed recently are available at the LCBO, while other wines from Jean-Max Roger can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Feudo Maccari Saia Nero d'Avola 2018 (Sicily) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Nero d'Avola from Sicily that arrived at the LCBO over the weekend as part of the LCBO VINTAGES Release on December 3rd.

Feudo Maccari was founded in the late 1990's when Antonio Moretti Cuseri of Tenuta Sette Ponti in Tuscany visited Sicily for a brief time and was enchanted by region's famous Baroque style and the warm waters of the sea. He thought he would only stay a while, but ended up planting roots and beginning a new adventure by acquiring land by units of "tumulo", an ancient Sicilian unit of measurement equal to 1,744 square metres, and acquiring more than fifty properties.

Today, Feudo Maccari has more than 250 hectares of property with about 60 hectares of land under vine, all of which exclusively rely on the head-trained system. This system was brought over by the first Greek colonists and is very costly to manage, but it is well-suited to the warm climate of southeastern Sicily. With the head-trained system, the bunches of grapes are protected by the leaves, while also limiting the oxidation of polyphenolic and aromatic substances. At the same time, the leaves are exposed to the sun's rays, allowing for excellent photosynthesis. Antonio chose this system because of the way it allows for perfect ventilation, how it offers the maximum amount of sunlight during daytime hours, and the fact that the bunches stay closer to the ground, which allows for ideal heat exchange so the fruit ripens.

Antonio immediately focused on native grape varieties like Nero d'Avola, Grillo, and Moscato di Noto, as well as some international varieties, to bring a fruity elegance and rich minerality to the wines. Because of Feudo Maccari's proximity to the sea and the limestone-rich soils, the area is perfect for quality winemaking and Nero d’Avola, in particular, came to life in this area between Avola and Pachino, in the province of Siracusa. Nero d'Avola is one of the great grape varieties of southern Italy, helping usher in a new era in the 1980s. Produced as a single variety, Nero d'Avola has shown itself to be an elegant, harmonious, well-balanced, and structured red able to stand up to long ageing in bottle.

The Saia gets its name from the irrigation canals created by the Arabs to collect rainwater centuries ago. It is crafted with Maccari's best selection of Nero d'Avola grapes, which were handpicked from 20-30 year old vines that were planted to south-facing vineyards situated 80 metres above sea level on volcanic soils with white sand and chalk deposits. The skins were gently broken and then it was fermented in stainless steel tanks and lined vats. The wine's first blend occurs when it is placed in barrique, and blended a second time at the first racking. It was aged for 12 to 14 months in French oak and then bottled with minimum intervention.

The 2018 vintage was characterized by a rainy spring which helped to refill the ground water, followed by a very sunny summer with temperatures sometimes higher than usual, along with sporadic rains which allowed the vines to work. September had perfect weather conditions with sunny, but not too hot days, and fresh nights, allowing the grapes to ripen perfectly. The balanced and regular weather trend helped guarantee the best territorial expression of the grapes and obtain wines of great elegance, beautiful acidity, and longevity. Let's see how this 2018 Nero d'Avola from Sicily is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

FEUDO MACCARI SAIA NERO D'AVOLA 2018 - DOC Sicilia, Italy (#128967) (XD) - $29.95
The nose is richly intense and spicy, followed by aromas of plum, red cherry, mineral, sandalwood, and raspberry. It's full-bodied and quite dense on the palate with a plummy core accented with cherry, sweet spices, and oak, plus savoury undertones. Acids are juicy and well-balanced, while the smooth and well-integrated with a slightly chalky mouthfeel on the back palate. Savoury, minerally, and tangy with sweet spices linger on the long, crisp, and very satisfying finish. Highly recommended buy. Score: 90 pts

A very select number of wines from Feudo Maccari, while other wines from their portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Le Fils des Gras Moutons Sur Lie Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine 2021 (Loire) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a lovely, organic white wine from the Loire Velley in France that arrived at the LCBO over the weekend as part of the December 3 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Claude Branger at Domaine Haute Févrie in the heart of the Muscadet Sèvre et Maine appellation in the Loire Valley. The Domaine was founded 18 km southeast of Nantes during the First World War by Claude's grandfather. For many years, Claude worked alongside his father for many years, and in 2007 he was joined by his son Sébastien to become the fourth generation of the family to carefully tend the estate's vines which are situated on hills overlooking the Sèvre River, ‎between the communes of Saint-Fiacre and Monnières. As conscientious winegrowers, the Branger family harvests all of their grapes by hand, and starting in 2016, Sébastien embarked on a vision to convert all of their vineyards to organic farming. By 2019, all of the domain's parcels were fully certified organic.

I've enjoyed this consistently delicious wine many times over the years, including most recently the 2019 Le Fils des Gras Moutons Sur Lie Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine last year in July. Certified organic, this white wine is crafted with the Melon de Bourgogne varietal from 10 hectares of vines averaging 40+ years old that were grown in the earlier maturing plots of the Les Gras Moutons vineyard. The vines are planted on soils that sit on a granite bedrock that is metamorphic gneiss full of mica and quartz. The grapes were hand-picked and after fermentation rested on its lees for 6-7 months prior to bottling.

2021 was a tricky growing season in the Loire with difficult weather and yields down significantly. However, the resulting wines were surprisingly good with the cool growing season naturally favouring aromatic varietals which preserved their elegant structures and clean, crisp acidity. Let's see how this 2021 Muscadet is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LE FILS DES GRAS MOUTONS SUR LIE MUSCADET SÈVRE-ET-MAINE 2021 - AC, Loire, France (#363150) (XD) - $17.95
This lovely organic wine crafted with 100% Melon de Bourgogne has a crisp, elegant, and focused medium-high intensity nose with appealing aromas of lemon-lime citrus, orchard fruit, apple, and mineral with hints of melon and peach adding further complexity. There's good weight on the dry, medium+ bodied palate that is slightly honeyed with ripe apple, lemon-lime peel citrus, saline mineral, and subtle spice flavours, plus orange and melon notes. There's a subtle chalky mouthfeel on the mid-palate, along with clean, crisp, and juicy acidity. Minerally with citrus and apple notes lingering on the long, juicy, and dry finish. Ideal with oysters. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

You can find other lovely wines by Domaine Haute Févrie through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Château Coufran 2009 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is an excellent, maturing red wine from Bordeaux that is featured on the cover of today's December 3 LCBO VINTAGES Release. This wine is also part of the theme of the release which is titled "Gifts to Celebrate: Festive, Food-Friendly Wines" and would make a fine gift for the holidays.

The story of Château Coufran begins with 18th century archives that referred to it as the noble house of "Cousran", as well as the dovecote that dates back even further to the Ancien Régime. The Château has changed families many times over the years. One of the notable exchanges occurred after the revolution, when Jean-Valère Cabarrus, a ship-owner and wine merchant who already owned other prestigious wine estates, acquired Château Couffran. At the end of the 19th century, the Château changed families again when the Célérier family, wine merchants in Bordeaux, took advantage of the success of Bordeaux wines and invested in the Médoc wine region and purchased Couffran.

In 1924, Louis Miailhe acquired the Château and decided on the current spelling of "Coufran". Louis undertook major redevelopment work in the vineyard, including planting mainly Merlot, which was more charming and highly appreciated at the time. The Miailhe family were wine brokers in France dating back to the 19th century and continued to 1970. Winemaking was also in the family with Louis' son, Jean, the winemaker at Coufran for a period of time. Since the 1980's, Jean's two children - Marie Cécile Vicaire and Eric Miailhe - have taken over. The wines of Coufran are atypical for the Médoc region, with a journalist once calling Coufran the "Pomerol of Médoc" due to their Merlot-based wines.

Château Coufran is located in the Haut-Médoc appellation in Saint-Seurin-de-Cadourne, a town just north of neighbouring Saint-Estèphe in the Pauillac area. Although the Château is located on the Left Bank of Bordeaux, where wines are usually blends of predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, this red wine is crafted with 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, with vines averaging 45-years-old. Château Coufran is a single 76-hectare block that stretches across a hillside, with its highest point at 21 metres elevation, and the soils are primarily made up of gravel and clay.

In the vineyard, vegetation cover is encouraged between rows, and the leaves are thinned after flowering. Grape bunches are also thinned, allowing the fruit to ripen in the best possible conditions. Harvest is carried out selectively, starting with Merlot, and then moving on to Cabernet. The grapes are also sorted based on quality and according to the terroir and vine age. It was vinified using traditional Bordeaux techniques, in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. The wine was matured in French oak barrels for 12 months, with a quarter of the barrels replaced with new barrels each year. After bottling, the wine is stored on-site in an air-conditioned room to optimise the ageing process, allowing them to release the ready-to-drink wines. From the legendary 2009 vintage, let's see how this Bordeaux red wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU COUFRAN 2009 - AC Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux, France (#13399) (XD) - $37.95
Blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon from vines averaging 45-years-old. Lovely, complex, elegant, and very attractive nose has medium-high intensity aromatics of crushed and stewed dark berry, black cherry, sweet spices, wet earth, olive, and sandalwood. It's medium-full to full-bodied with complex and maturing flavours of dark berry, black cherry, sweet spices, earth, currant, and cassis on the palate. Acids are still quite juicy and refreshing. Some dried cherry and floral notes on the mid-palate add further interest. Maturing tannins are structured, refined, and somewhat grippy-chalky, with a pleasing mouthfeel. Earthy with black cherry, olive, and sweet spice notes linger on the long, satisfying finish. In a nice place right now and should continue to drink well over the next 5 years, maybe longer. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92+ pts

Other lovely wines by Château Coufran can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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