Kaiken Ultra Las Rocas Malbec 2018 (Argentina) - Wine Review

For tonight's wine review, I continue the series on some lovely Malbec wines from Argentina. This particular bottle is arriving at the LCBO as part of the December 12, 2020 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Kaiken Wines, the name of which comes from the Caiquén wild goose from Patagonia that flies across The Andes between Argentina and Chile. Like the border-crossing Caiquén, Aurelio Montes, founder of Chilean winery Bodega Montes, made several trips across the Andes to Argentina and in the year 2000 he rediscovered Mendoza as a generous land, filled with superb vines and hardworking people. Although the winery was built in 1920, it was in 2001 that Aurelio realized Mendoza was the perfect place to make Kaiken Wines.

Today, the winemaking team consists of Chilean Gustavo Hörmann and Argentinean Rogelio Rabino, with support from Aurelio Montes. Kaiken owns vineyards in some of the most prestigious regions of Argentina with the goal of crafting wines that faithfully express the terroir they come from. The philosophy at Kaiken has always been to produce premium wines with respect for the environment and our collaborators, promoting a sustainable culture in all stages of the winemaking process, including the use of biodynamics.

Although this Malbec is generically labelled from Mendoza, the grapes were actually grown in three separate vineyards located in the sub-regions of the Uco Valley. The first batch comes from Los Chacayes in Tunuyán at an elevation of 4,101 ft. (1,250 m) where the climate is temperate with cool nights and the soils are rocky and mixed with coarse sand and some lime with low fertility and high permeability. The second parcel of Malbec comes from Altamira in San Carlos that was grown at 3,937 ft. (1,200 m) above sea level and has a large diurnal temperature range with cold nights and warm days. The soil in Altamira is chalky with sand, lime, and stones. The third and final parcel of Malbec comes from an extremely high-elevation vineyard in Gualtallary, Tupungato, at 4,265 - 5,249 ft. (1,300 - 1,600 m) above sea level. This area in Gualtallary also has a large diurnal temperature range, along with instances of Zonda wind - a strong, dry wind - and has alluvial, poor, and stony soils, with an important quantity of calcium carbonate and sand. All of the grapes were manually harvested and fermented in concrete tanks and aged in a combination of new and used French oak barrels for 12 months. The name of this delicious wine "Las Rocas" comes from the hundreds of rounded boulders that lie among the vines at their Los Chacayes vineyard in Tunuyán.

Tasting Note:

KAIKEN ULTRA LAS ROCAS MALBEC 2018 - Mendoza, Argentina (#50849) (XD) - $19.95
100% Malbec from three separate vineyards across the Uco Valley grown at 3,937 - 5,249 ft. (1,200 m - 1,600 m) above sea level. Spicy, medium+ intensity aromas are layered over blackberry, dark berry, and smoky dark minerals with touches of oak. Lovely floral and peppery spice aromas arrive with time in the glass. It's medium-bodied on the palate with nice dark berry, dark mineral, blackberry, and touches of violet on the flavour profile. Succulent acids are juicy and well-balanced, while gritty tannins seem just a bit tight at the moment. Dark berry and mineral notes linger on the tight finish, with very good length. Enjoy over the next 5 years. Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines from Kaiken can be found at the LCBO or through their Agent - Trajectory Beverage Partners.

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Wakefield Jaraman Shiraz 2017 (Australia) - Wine Review (Bottle 2)

Tonight's wine review is this consistently well-made Australian Shiraz by the ever-reliable Wakefield Wines. I enjoyed the 2017 Wakefield Jaraman Shiraz when it first came to VINTAGES in July 2019 and am pleased to see it return in time for the holidays as part of the December 12, 2020 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Produced by the Taylor family, one of Australia's First Families of Wine, at their home base in the southern end of Clare Valley, South Australia, this red wines comes from their Jaraman range of wines in which they seek parcels of extraordinary fruit to craft wines that showcase the distinctive regional characteristics and style.

This particular wine is 100% Shiraz from 60.5% Clare Valley fruit and 39.5% McLaren Vale fruit. Shiraz from Clare Valley tends to be big on flavour with hints of liquorice and excellent acidity, while also providing some structure. On the other hand, McLaren Vale Shiraz is typically full-bodied with blue fruit and hints of chocolate. Let's see how this bottle has evolved, more than one year after tasting it the first time.

Tasting Note:

WAKEFIELD JARAMAN SHIRAZ 2017 - Clare Valley/McLaren Vale, South Australia (#377036) (XD) - $24.95
Screw cap. Aromas of ripe black and blue fruit along with oak resin, wood, brown spices, and meaty notes with touches of licorice rise out of the glass. It's medium-full bodied on the slightly warm palate with flavours of blackberry, blueberry, savoury oak spice, and earthy tones with hints of white pepper. Food-friendly acids are juicy and well-balanced, while smooth, polished tannins have a fine-grained texture. Wood and savoury notes linger on the finish, with good length. More savoury than the bottle tasted last year and still a pleasure. Score: 88 pts

Many other Wakefield Wines can be found at the LCBO, as well as through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Lungarotti IlBio Rosso 2016 (Umbria) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is this nice, organic red from Umbria that is new to the LCBO and arrived recently as part of the November 14th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Cantine Lungarotti was founded in the early 1960s by Giorgio Lungarotti and soon became a major force on opening up new opportunities not only in Torgiano, but also throughout Umbria with wine as the centrepiece. The history of the Lungarotti family goes back to the 1700s - when they were farmers in the Middle Tiber Valley and began to realize the potential of the Umbrian land to produce wine and oil.

The grapes for this wine come from their Estate in Montefalco. Thanks to the contributions of Giorgio Lungarotti, the creation of the DOC Montefalco appellation in 1979 was made possible. In Umbria, Lungarotti has a deep knowledge of the climate, soil, environment, and people to create wines that express the land from which it originates. In the year 2000, Lungarotti purchased 20 hectares in the area and planted vineyards for the production of wines based on the grape Sagrantino.

The winery is located in Turrita di Montefalco and uses gravity-flow to move the wine around the facility. The cellars are completely underground, thereby naturally controlling the ambient temperature. Environmental awareness is central to the operations of Lungarotti, including the production of renewable energy from vine pruning residues. They have also been producing wines organically at the Montefalco Estate beginning with the 2014 harvest.

Although the label does not mention the varietals used to produce this bottle of red wine, it does mention that it is produced entirely with organically-grown "king" of the varietals. In fact, it is made with 100% Sagrantino. However, because Lungarotti wanted to create a fresher, less traditional style of Sagrantino, this led to a different vinification process which fell outside the DOCG regulations, resulting in the wine being classified as an "IGT". Let's see how this wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LUNGAROTTI ILBIO ROSSO 2016 - IGT Umbria, Italy (#16573) (XD) - $23.95
100% Sagrantino grown at 450 metres above sea level on shallow soils with a light presence of rocks, and southern exposure. Medium-high intensity aromatics are fresh with ripe, bright red and dark cherries, if slightly raisined, plus cassis, currant, and earthy vanillin oak notes. It's full bodied on the warm palate with firm, dusty, grippy tannins and juicy acidity. It has dark cherry, earthy, and vanillin oak flavours that linger through to the mouth-puckering, very dry and savoury finish, with good length. A nice introduction to the Sagrantino grape. Score: 88 pts

Other lovely wines from Lungarotti are available at the LCBO, as well as via their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Genèse Sancerre 2018 (Loire) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is this lovely Sauvignon Blanc from the renowned region of Sancerre in Loire. It returned to VINTAGES as part of the November 28th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

One of my favourite producers from Loire, Jean-Max Roger comes from a long line of winegrowers from the village of Bué, just southwest of the town of Sancerre, with the first mention of the name dating back to the early 17th century. Up until the 1960s, generation after generation of the family practiced mixed farming and animal rearing. Jean-Max Roger inherited the 4 hectare property from his parents in the 1970s, and with his wife, Nicole, focused on the vineyards and developed the estate. In 2004, two of their three sons - Thibault and Etienne - joined the family estate. Today, the brothers continue to define the estate's identity with their 28 hectares of Sancerre appellation vines located along the Loire River.

This lovely white wine is 100% Sauvignon Blanc from selected plots of stony, calcareous clay soils called "caillottes" that have shaped the palate of several generations of the Roger family. The Cuvée Genèse (or Genesis) represents the origin of the Roger family's history. The vines are between 10 and 40 years of age, have southeastern exposure to the sun, and are raised using some organic priniciples to reveal its terroir. It was long fermented using natural yeasts and aged on heavy lees to develop minerality in the wine.

I've had the pleasure of tasting previous vintages of this lovely wine, most recently the 2015 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Genèse Sancerre back in 2017, and this vintage should be just as good, if not better. The 2018 vintage in Loire was historic in terms of both quality and yield. In 2018, the Spring weather was favourable and unhampered by hail or frost. Although there were heavy rains in June, winegrowers skilfully managed the vineyards. Summer temperatures reached an all-time high and excellent growing conditions continued through to harvest. Let's see how the 2018 is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE GENÈSE SANCERRE 2018 - AC, Loire, France (#189126) (XD) - $33.95
100% Sauvignon Blanc grown on stony, calcareous clay soils called "caillottes". Intense, stony mineral aromas are layered over fresh, ripe lemon/lime citrus and white floral notes. It's quite full and powerful on the palate with some warmth due to the hot vintage, but still well-balanced with floral, lime, and stony flavours and lively, juicy, mouth-watering acidity. Tangy mid-palate with a pleasing chalky texture. Stony mineral notes linger on the long finish. Lovely! Score: 91+ pts

Other fine wines from Jean-Max Roger can be ordered via their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Tournon Shays Flat Vineyard Shiraz 2013 (Australia) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is this excellent Australian Shiraz that came to the LCBO over the weekend as part of the November 28th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

The Chapoutier family have been working the vineyards and winegrowing in the Rhône Valley since 1808. Michel Chapoutier is the seventh generation of the family to work in the wine business. Michel is a legend in the world of wine with a passion for the expression of soils and a pioneering spirit. In 1997, Michel Chapoutier set out to explore the terroirs of the planet's oldest continent - Australia.

Michel wanted to meet like-minded people who had a passionate interest in bringing out the true character of the vines. He eventually found land awaiting its revelation in the state of Victoria and partnered with a couple of families. The area of Victoria is renowned for its distinct soils and and diversity of microclimates. Later, Maison M. Chapoutier purchased a pair of Australian vineyards in the Victorian Pyrenees region - one of these was Shays Flat - and set up Domaine Tournon with the goal of producing world-class wines that speak of the individual terroirs from which they are grown.

The Domaine Tournon portfolio consists of four ranges of wines. At the low end is the Mathilda range from Victorian vineyards - I enjoyed the 2011 Domaine Tournon Mathilda Shiraz a few years ago. There is also the Landsborough Vineyard in Pyrenees, and the Lady's Lane Vineyard in Heathcote. Lastly, there is the Shay's Flat Vineyard, where this Shiraz is from, that . The Shay's Flat Vineyard is located in the cool region of Pyrenees in Western Victoria, nestled in the mountain range with a northeastern aspect on red soils that are a mix of schists, silt, quartz, and clay - ideal for producing high quality red wines, especially Shiraz.

Tasting Note:

TOURNON SHAYS FLAT VINEYARD SHIRAZ 2013 - Pyrenees, Victoria, Australia (#311480) (XD) - $23.95
Cork enclosure. This Shiraz was grown on red podzolic soils that overlay iron schists and quartz. Most of this wine was aged for 12 months in French oak barrels. The medium+ intensity nose seems somewhat shy, but offers savoury, earthy, and dark fruited aromas with hints of herbal mint. The medium-full to full-bodied palate has lovely, slightly maturing flavours of dark berry, spice, and herbs surrounding a savoury, earthy, and woody core. Some lovely peppery spice notes arrive with time in the glass. It has balanced acidity and gritty, refined tannins that are pleasantly textured. Savoury and earthy on the finish, with excellent length. More Northern Rhône Syrah than Shiraz in style. Highly recommended buy for Syrah wine lovers. Enjoy over the next 8-10 years. Score: 91+ pts

Other lovely wines from M. Chapoutier can be ordered via their Agent - Dandurand.

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Château Hauchat 2018 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a nice Merlot from Bordeaux that arrived at the LCBO today as part of the November 28, 2020 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Vignobles Jean-Bernard Saby & Fils, a family that has been producing wines on the Right Bank of Bordeaux in Saint Emilion for nine generations. Jean Saby started the family dynasty in the 18th century and the family vineyard properties have been passed down each generation ever since. Today, Jean-Bernard Saby has modernized the various family properties, with 62 hectares of vines located in Saint-Émilion and Fronsac. The 9th generation - Jean-Christophe and Jean-Phillippe - are both oenologists and are applying their new skills while still respecting the traditions and know-how of their father and grandfather.

The Château Hauchat property is located on a high plateau within the commune of Saint-Aignan, to the west of neighbouring Pomerol and Saint Émilion. It was re-acquired by the Saby family in 1973, joining Château Rozier and Château Saint André Corbin that make up the family estates. Château Hauchat is situated in one of the finest growing areas of the Fronsac appellation. This site has homogeneity of the soil that is well-drained and consists of clay-limestone, as well as perfect sun exposure. Together, this terroir is ideal for the single grape grown at the property - Merlot.

I have tasted this red wine on a number of occasions now, including the 2016 Château Hauchat twice last year. It has improved every time I tasted it and with a 2018 vintage that is slated to be spectacular, I would expect this wine to be even better. Let's see how the 2018 is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU HAUCHAT 2018 - AC Fronsac, Bordeaux, France (#123489) (XD) - $17.95
100% Merlot that was aged for 15 months in evenly split new, 1-year-old, and 2-year-old barrels. Medium+ intensity nose offers a mix of ripe dark berry, blackberry, oak, wood spice, and cocoa with hints of plum. It's medium+ bodied on the spicy palate with bright acidity and flavours of currant, cassis, oak spice, earth, and cocoa. Some warmth on the mid-palate, but fairly balanced overall. Well-integrated tannins have a pleasant, slightly chalky grip that linger through to juicy, earthy and cocoa flavoured finish, with very good length. Approachable now, but should improve over the next few years. Score: 88+ pts

Other wines from Vignobles Jean-Bernard Saby & Fils can be ordered via their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Domaine Hamelin Beauroy Chablis 1er Cru 2018 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is this lovely Premier Cru Chablis that arrives in LCBO VINTAGES this weekend. This white wine is featured in the November 28 LCBO VINTAGES Release as a Top Holiday Wine and is indeed just that!

I have had the pleasure of tasting this wine on a couple of occasions in the past, including the 2014 Domaine Hamelin Beauroy Chablis 1er Cru when it came through VINTAGES in 2016. It is crafted by Domaine Hamelin, a producer whose roots begin in 1840 when Gustave Hamelin grew 2 hectares of vines alongside his mixed farm. In 1880, Pierre Hamelin grew 3 hectares of vines alongside his farm, using his mule to help work the vines. At the time, the wine was held in 132 Litre barrels, giving rise to their name "feuillette", or little cask. The wines were sold in these containers and transported by river. In 1911, Georges Hamelin extends the property to grow 4 hectares of vines and working them by horse. In 1948, they began using a mechanical horizontal press and 5 years later started using a high-clearance tractor. Marc Hamelin created his own vineyard and then added the area he inherited from his father, while also building a new vat room.

Today, Thierry and his son Charles Hamelin, the 6th and 7th generations of the family continue winegrowing activities, perpetuating the Chablis wine tradition. The main focus is to keep the "flavour" of the terroir while using a mix of old traditions and modern winemaking techniques.

This Premier Cru Chablis is 100% Chardonnay that was grown on very steep, south-facing slopes, that extend from the bottom of the valley to the top. The vines were planted between 1980 and 1982 and have Kimmeridgian subsoil. It was aged for 12 to 18 months in stainless steel vats prior to bottling. The 2018 vintage in Chablis has been hailed by some as "one for the ages". It has a rare combination of high volume and high quality. It started with greater water reserves in the soil from which the vines drew water during the hot summer months. The presence of fog and dew each morning also added juice to vines. During harvest, the fruit was also picked with grapes in perfect balance.

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE HAMELIN BEAUROY CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2018 - AC, Burgundy, France (#391805) (XD) - $39.95
From vines planted in the early 1980's on very steep, south-facing slopes, this unoaked Chardonnay has intense, terroir-driven, minerally aromas mingling with ripe, lemon citrus and touches of oyster shell, white floral, and acacia. It's medium+ bodied on the fresh, ripe palate with stony, lemon citrus flavours with hints of peach. It's nicely textured with fresh, bright acids that are crisp and clean. Some nutty and mealy notes arrive on the mid-palate, adding complexity and interest, lingering through to the long, juicy, textured, stony, oyster shell finish. Highly recommended buy. Score: 92 pts

Other fine wines from Domaine Hamelin can be ordered via their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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