PHI Chardonnay 2021 (Yarra Valley) - Wine Review

After enjoying the lovely 2019 De Bortoli Estate Vineyard Chardonnay last month, we go up a notch with tonight's white wine review - a fantastic single vineyard Chardonnay from the Yarra Valley in Victoria. It is a brand-new arrival at the LCBO, arriving a few months ago in the March 2 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and is still available for purchase Online and in-person at Flagship Exclusive locations.

It is produced by De Bortoli Wines, one of Australia's leading family-owned wine companies. De Bortoli Wines was established in 1928 after Vittorio De Bortoli, an Italian immigrant from Treviso, arrived in New South Wales to discover that the flat plains and red earth were very different compared to his homeland and purchased a 55 acre mixed fruit farm. That same year, there was a glut of Shiraz grapes in the region and Vittorio was able to get 15 tonnes of Shiraz grapes for free since other farmers preferred to let them rot. Vittorio's wine was very popular among local Italians and other Europeans in the area, and they wanted to buy the wine off him. With this first of many successes, Vittorio established De Bortoli Wines.

Vittorio married his fiancée, Giuseppina, on the farm a year later, and the 1930s brought the second generation of the De Bortoli family with the births of Florrie, Deen, and Eola. The family business continued to grow over the years, while Deen left school (against his parents' wishes) at the age of 15 in 1951 to work at the family winery, and by 1957 he was itching to modernize it. In 1958, Deen married Emeri Cunial and the third generation of the De Bortoli family arrived with the births of Darren, Leanne, Kevin, and Victor. Deen was instrumental in expanding the family business during the 1970s, and in 1987, De Bortoli expanded into Yarra Valley, Victoria. In 1990, De Bortoli Yarra Valley Estate was established and led by Leanne De Bortoli and her husband, Steve Webber, and together they welcomed the 4th generation of the family. Their daughter, Kate Webber, joined the family wine business and is the winemaker for this Chardonnay.

This particular white wine is from De Bortoli's PHI range of wines. PHI is the 21st letter of the Ancient Greek alphabet and symbolizes balance, harmony, and proportion. Similarly, with PHI wines, the third and fourth generations of the De Bortoli family are working together to create Single Vineyard wines that give proportion to climate, soil, and maker.

The Yarra Valley is one of Australia's premier cool climate wine regions and is located approximately 50 km northeast of Melbourne, near the towns of Yarra Glen and Healesville. This Chardonnay was grown at the Lusatia Park Vineyard in the town of Woori Yallock, one of the most iconic single vineyard sites in the Yarra Valley. The Lusatia Park Vineyard was purchased from the Shelmerdine family in 2016 and forms part of De Bortoli's plans to establish iconic vineyards to produce single plot fine wines. The 18 hectare, north-facing vineyard was first planted in 1985 at an altitude of 240 metres, while the soil is deep decomposed basalt that is quite rich in iron.

To craft this lovely Chardonnay, the grapes were hand-harvested in mid-to-late March, whole-bunch pressed, and allowed to settle overnight. The juice was then racked into older French oak casks where it underwent natural fermentation. The wine was then left on its yeast lees for 9 months, with occasional stirring.

It was a classic, cooler growing season in Yarra Valley and Lusatia Park in 2021. Spring featured timely rain, while ripening season temperatures tracked long-term averages. From a good-to-excellent vintage that featured idyllic growing conditions, let's see how this 2021 Chardonnay from Yarra Valley is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

PHI CHARDONNAY 2021 - Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia (#33567) (XD) - $33.95
Vegan-friendly and enclosed by screw cap. The fragrant, perfumed, medium-high to highly aromatic nose offers lovely saline minerality aromas layered over green apple, lemon citrus, pear, savoury earth, and subtle spice notes. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it has a creamy mouthfeel with lovely green apple, lemon citrus, and saline mineral flavours joined by accents of almond and mealy notes on the back palate. It's supported by fresh, lively, and slightly tangy acidity. A touch spicy on the mid-palate with a finely textured mouthfeel, while saline mineral, citrus, and apple notes linger on the long, balanced, and savoury finish. Enjoy to the early 2030s. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

The Estate Vineyard Chardonnay is still available at the LCBO, while the entire portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Dionysus Wines & Spirits.

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Château Beau-Site 2018 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a beautiful Left Bank Bordeaux red wine from the Saint-Estèphe appellation that arrived at the LCBO as part of the recent May 11 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Borie-Manoux, a wine merchant whose origins started as a wine trading company that was established in 1870 by the Borie family. Today, Borie-Manoux is a significant wine merchant in the Bordeaux wine industry with a rich history and a diverse portfolio of estates. Borie-Manoux is currently owned and managed by the Castéja family, with Philippe Castéja as President.

Château Beau-Site is one of Borie-Manoux's Bordeaux wine estates. Situated in Saint-Estèphe, it was founded in the 18th century and is one of the oldest estates in the commune. At the time of its founding, it was part of Château Morin. Its name - Beau-Site - reflects its scenic location as it overlooks the entire vineyard and has magnificent panoramic views extending towards the Gironde river. Château Beau-Site's first owner was M. de Camiran, while in the 1860s it became the property of M. Grazilhon, at which point in time the name was changed to Château Beau-Site-Grazilhon.

The term "Cru Bourgeois" is used to describe wines of great quality and value, and graced the bottles of Château Beau-Site wines for the first time, starting in 1868. A few years later, the château was upgraded to Cru Bourgeois Supérieur, and continued until the 1990s. A change in ownership in the 1920s led to the château reverting to its original name, with Mme Faugeras managing the property for several decades before selling it in the 1940s to M. Legendre.

In 1955, Château Beau-Site joined the Borie family after it was acquired by Marcel Borie. Marcel worked hard to restore the château to its former glory, and as part of this restoration, all the wines were now made and aged on-site, with the vat room filled with wooden vats. Towards the end of the 1950s, Marcel took over Château Haut-Vignoble Seguin, a 5-hectare vineyard that now produces Château Beau-Site's second wine.

After Marcel Borie died in 1961, his son-in-law, Émile Castéja, took over the reins and over the ensuing decade Émile replaced the wooden vats with epoxy-coated metal vats. By the end of the 1980s, he had replaced some of the metal vats with stainless steel vats.

In 2001, Émile Castéja retired and was succeeded by his son, Philippe Castéja. Upon taking over, Philippe quickly began work on the Château by making a number of improvements, such as digging an underground passageway between the barrel cellar and the vat room to make it easier for visitors to get around. In 2005, the tasting room was set up at the entrance to the barrel cellar and offered a view over the estuary. In 2006, the vat room's interior was completely refurbished, while the Château was completely refurbished and refurnished so that it could accommodate the family of Chantal Preben-Hansen, Philippe Castéja's sister, as well as visitors.

Sustainable winemaking practices were initiated by Philippe when he took over, and developed them further from 2014 as he was able to convince the family and team that the environment was an integral part of the wines and important for consumers. Since that time, the Casteja family has continuously sought ways to increase their commitment to sustainable winemaking. With sustainability at the top of mind, traditional vineyard work is still carried out with precision to ensure the highest quality grapes. The old vines have been carefully preserved to produce distinguished and elegant wines comparable to those of its illustrious neighbour, Château Calon-Ségur. At the winery, precision winemaking is terroir-focused.

As Saint-Estèphe is part of the Médoc region and situated at the northern tip of the Haut-Médoc, on the Left Bank of the Gironde River in Bordeaux, the area has been planted with vines since Roman times, and further developed by English merchants from the Middle Ages onwards. The drainage of marshland in the 17th century led to further increases in surface land area and vineyards. The Saint-Estèphe AOC was officially recognized in 1936 thanks to its diverse climate and geology. The oceanic climate is temperate, but warm enough for the vines to thrive, while the soils are composed of gravelly alluvium, limestone, and oyster marl.

As the flagship of the estate, the 2018 vintage of this elegant wine is a blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot. The grapes were traditionally picked by hand and sorted on tables in the vineyard, then transferred into tipping buckets which carry the grapes back to the winery. Each plot was vinified separately, fermentation occurring over four weeks in small-capacity, temperature-controlled vats, at fairly low temperatures. Gentle extractions help preserve the fruit, while allowing the terroir to express itself. Each plot was aged in French oak barrels (approx. 40% new) for 6 months, then blended and aged a further 12 months prior to bottling on-site.

From the excellent 2018 vintage, let's see how this 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend from Bordeaux is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU BEAU-SITE 2018 - AC Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux, France (#647933) (XD) - $48.95
This blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot has a rich, ripe, and brooding nose with medium-high to high intensity aromatics of dark red and black fruits, currant, cassis, and black cherry notes joined by spicy, fine wood spices, and sandalwood surrounding a core of savoury forest floor. On the dry, full-bodied bodied palate it is rich, spicy, and a touch warm with savoury earth, fine wood spice, blackcurrant, blackberry, black cherry, and graphite mineral flavours accented with dried herbs. Some licorice and clove spice notes appear on the mid-palate to add further interest. Acids are juicy and mouth-watering, while the refined, well-structured tannins have a gently chalky textured mouthfeel and are quite approachable at this stage. Savoury, graphite, and dried herb notes linger on the exceptionally long finish. Will improve further with age and enjoy into the mid-2030s. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other fine wines by Borie-Manoux can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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May 25, 2024 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: Online & Flagship Exclusives

Here's my top wine picks from the May 25 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection. This is the first Online & Flagship Exclusives release of the year, of which we'll see three more until the end of summer. While these wines can be ordered online as of today, I am pleased that the LCBO has also increased the number of "Flagship" stores where these wines can be purchased in-person, although I personally wish that they would open one north of Toronto in York Region. Overall, there are 32 wines in this release, with most priced north of $25.

Among my top red wine picks from this release, we'll begin in Italy with the latest vintage of the iconic Ornellaia, which is a blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, and 7% Petit Verdot. All the other reds are mono-varietal wines - an Aglianico from Campania, a Shiraz from Victoria (in Australia), and a Gamay from Niagara. There's also a pair of Cabernet Sauvignon wines - one each from South Africa and Chile.

All five of my white wine recommendations are also single varietal wines, with Riesling dominating the list. First up is the dry Riesling (i.e. not sweet) from Clare Valley, while the off-dry (i.e. slightly sweet) Riesling is from Mosel. The last Riesling is crafted in a medium-sweet style from Niagara. The other two white wines are a lovely Marsanne from Niagara, and a premium Ribolla Gialla from Friuli.

Other than reds and whites, there is also a fine Vintage Port that is crafted with 40% Touriga Nacional, 30% Touriga Franca, 10% Tinta Roriz, and the rest is a field blend from old vines.

Enjoy my top wine picks from this release!

Red Wine:

• KAPEMORT AVERNO AGLIANICO 2021 - DOC Irpinia, Campania, Italy (#36414) (XD) - $27.95
• JARDIN THE LONG FUSE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021 - Vegan, WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#714501) (XD) - $27.95  91+ pts  wine review
• DAGAZ GRANITO CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 - DO Valle de Colchagua, Chile (#37741) (XD) - $29.95
• BACHELDER BATOR NIAGARA CRU SINGLE VINEYARD GAMAY NOIR 2021 - 20% Whole Cluster, Vieilles Vignes, VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (#38362) (XD) - $29.95
• TALTARNI PYRENEES VICTORIA SHIRAZ 2019 - Estate grown, Pyrenees, Victoria, Australia (#33496) (XD) - $32.95
• ORNELLAIA 2021 - DOC Bolgheri Superiore, Tuscany, Italy (#722470) (XD) - $276.95

White Wine:

• KEW VINEYARDS MARSANNE 2019 - VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#485334) (XD) - $19.95  90 pts  wine review
• PAULETT POLISH HILL RIVER RIESLING 2022 - Clare Valley, South Australia (#292268) (XD) - $22.95
• WEGELER SLATE MOSEL TROCKEN RIESLING 2022 - VDP Gutswein, Mosel, Germany (#37511) (D) - $26.95
• JERMANN VINNAE RIBOLLA GIALLA 2022 - IGT Venezia Giulia, Friuli, Italy (#29101) (XD) - $41.95
• CHARLES BAKER PICONE VINEYARD RIESLING 2021 - Sustainable, VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#241182) (M) - $44.95

Fortified Wine:

• QUINTA DA DEVESA VINTAGE PORT 2018 - DOP, Portugal (#26860) (S) - $89.95

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La Posta Malbec Rosé 2023 and Armando Bonarda 2022 (Argentina) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of delicious wines by La Posta that arrived at the LCBO as part of recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collections and are widely available across Ontario right now.

La Posta Vineyards was established at the turn of the century by Laura Catena, of the renowned Catena family, who have significant involvement and development in the Argentine wine industry. Dr. Laura Catena established this brand after she discovered a handful of growers who consistently showed impressive results with specific varietals year-after-year.

Today, La Posta focuses on producing wines that highlight not only the local, independent growers, but also the distinct terroir and grape varieties of Argentina. La Posta wines salute the hard-working growers who strive for superior flavours from the grapes they grow on their own estate. Often, La Posta wines are single-vineyard bottles which illustrate the story of each family, while the labels are inspired by Art Nouveau and Art Déco designs of the 1920s and 1930s.

The Armando Bonarda is one of the wines from the portfolio. The Bonarda grapes were grown by Estela Armando, a fourth generation winegrower from a family that has been in the wine business and growing grapes in Mendoza since their arrival from the Piedmont region of Italy in 1887. It was Estela's great-grandfather that established the family's wine business, while her grandfather and father planted the present Bonarda vineyard in 1963 - grapes which are used to craft this red wine. The combination of a unique place in Guaymallén, old vines, and very little irrigation help create grapes of high quality.

Both the 2022 and 2023 vintages in Argentina had their challenges. Let's see how these two wines from Argentina are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

LA POSTA MALBEC ROSÉ 2023 - Sustainable, Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina (#24747) (XD) - $15.95
100% Malbec grown at an average of 1,000 metres above sea level. It was vinified without the use of any oak using carbonic maceration by press, with 100% whole clusters that were hand-loaded into 5,000 L stainless steel tanks. The medium+ to medium-high intensity nose offers grapefruit, white pepper spice, and dried herb aromas with accents of mineral, blood orange, citrus, and red cherry. It has good weight on the dry, medium-full bodied palate with delicious grapefruit, dried herb, peppery spice, red currant-cherry, and citrus flavours. Acids are juicy and succulent, joined by some palate warmth on the mid-palate. Dried herbs, peppery spice, red currant-cherry, and mineral notes linger on the crisp and dry finish, with very good length. Chill well and enjoy! Arrived in LCBO VINTAGES on April 13. Score: 88+ pts

LA POSTA ARMANDO BONARDA 2022 - Mendoza, Argentina (#261586) (XD) - $14.95
This 100% Bonards was grown in a vineyard that was planted in 1964 in Guaymallén, in the eastern part of Mendoza, at an elevation of 700 metres, and has shallow loamy clay soil with gravel subsoil. Half of the wine was aged for 9 months in 2nd and 3rd-use French oak barrels. Fresh and fragrant, the medium-high intensity nose is ripe and fruity with dark fruited, black cherry, black plum, blackberry, and smoky oak aromas with touches of peppery spice. On the dry, mid-weighted palate it is ripe with black cherry, blackberry, plum, oak spice, pepper, and clove flavours. It has crisp, juicy acidity, along with a touch of warmth on the mid-palate. Present tannins offer a grippy, textured mouthfeel. The balanced flavour profile of black cherry, dark berry, and plum tapering to smoky oak notes linger on the finish, with very good length. Arrived in LCBO VINTAGES on May 11. Score: 88+ pts

Other delicious La Posta Vineyards wines can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Tenuta Iuzzolini Madre Goccia 2022 (Calabria) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely blend of Greco Bianco and Chardonnay that is a brand-new arrival at the LCBO as part of last weekend's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on May 11.

It is produced by Tenuta Iuzzolini, a family-owned estate winery that was founded in 2004 by Fortunato Iuzzolini and his wife Giovanna Colicchio. The couple's love and passion was passed down to their four sons, who are also now part of the estate. Tenuta Iuzzolini is situated in Cirò, a small Calabrian town with Greek roots along the Ionian coast of Crotone. The Estate covers over 500 hectares of land, with 100 hectares dedicated to vineyards, 50 hectares of centuries-old olive groves, 100 hectares of arable land, and the remainder made up of pastures and woods for livestock that is raised in the wild.

The calling card of Tenuta Iuzzolini is to make quality wines. In order to realize this, they use grapes from over 500 hectares of vineyards, 100 hectares of which are situated within the Cirò DOC territory, with the remaining located in IGT Calabria, within the localities of Timpa Bianca, La Motta, and Niballo. The fertile soils where the vineyards are planted have a clayey and sandy limestone origin, and are rich in natural springs. Blessed with a Mediterranean climate, the entire area is hot with dry summers, and short, rainy winters, which provide the ideal conditions for cultivating grapevines and olive trees.

Tenuta Iuzzolini's cellar is located in the charming town of Cirò Marina and represents a unique and exceptional reality of its kind. Their cellar is the ideal place where history embraces innovation, and where tradition meets modernity. The outside structure was built with original materials from the Crotone area - original local stones, tiles, and bricks, without altering the original conformation of the territory. On the inside, the cellar makes use of high-tech and the latest systems, which are constantly renewed, including the use of stainless steel containers and high-efficiency machinery which help guarantee the use of cutting-edge winemaking methods. Day-after-day, Tenuta Iuzzolini takes care of wine production down to the smallest details with great meticulousness. Their wine laboratory is constantly analyzing the grapes and wine, from vineyard to bottle, while complying with mandatory hygiene and health regulations and protocols.

This white wine is a blend of Greco Bianco, Calabria's powerhouse white grape variety, and Chardonnay. The grapes were grown in the locality of Motta, Carfizzi, within the central-eastern part of the province of Crotone, in the region of Calabria. Situated at an altitude between 200 and 300 metres above sea level, the grapevines are planted on clayey, calcareous soil in a Mediterranean climate with mild winters and hot, dry summers. After manually harvesting the grapes, they were destemmed and gently pressed, with a yield of free-run must for 60% of the grapes. It was vinified and matured in steel, with further maturation taking place in bottle at a controlled temperature. Let's see how this 2022 Greco/Chardonnay white wine blend from Calabria is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TENUTA IUZZOLINI MADRE GOCCIA 2022 - IGT Calabria, Italy (#36512) (D) - $22.95
This blend of Greco Bianco and Chardonnay has a lovely, fragrant, medium-high intensity nose of pretty spring flowers and ripe lemon citrus aromas followed orchard fruit, apple, and touches of leesy minerality. On the medium+ bodied palate it has sunny and ripe tropical & orchard fruit, apple, grapefruit, lemon citrus, herbs, honeysuckle, floral, and mild spice characters in a dry-ish flavour profile. There's a kiss of sweetness, but it's kept in check by the bright and refreshing acidity. Well-balanced and refreshing with spice notes tapering to mineral on the long, juicy, and dry finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other lovely wines by Tenuta Iuzzolini can be ordered through their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.

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Mega Spileo Malagousia 2022 (Greece) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely Malagousia from Greece. It is a brand-new arrival at the LCBO and was featured as part of the theme on Classic Euro Regions in the May 11 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Like the excellent 2015 Mega Spileo Estate Cabernet Sauvignon I enjoyed last month, this white wine is made by the same producer - Mega Spileo Estate. The historic and significant Mega Spileo monastery and winery is situated near the town of Kalavryta, within the Achaea region of the Peloponnese. As the oldest and continuously occupied institution in Greece, and the 2nd oldest in the world, the estate is built inside a large cave overlooking the Vouraikos Gorge and provides stunning, natural surroundings. The monastery was established in 362 A.D. by brothers who were also monks, with vine cultivation entering the picture from the mid-15th century onwards, as the monks grew grapes to produce wine for the Holy Communion and as a nutritious dietary supplement. During this period, a massive barrel called "Angelis" was acquired and used to store 12 tonnes of wine - it still survives to this day.

The latest chapter of Mega Spileo Estate began in 1999, when brothers Giannis & Theodoros Anastasiou received a long-term lease on the Estate from the Monastery. The Anastasiou brothers are guided by their vision to revitalize the historical vineyard using a team of experienced wine producers and oenologists who re-planted vines and implemented best practices, including sustainable agriculture and environmental protection, for the cultivation and production of high-quality wine to create a completely new and unique estate. Cultivating both local and international varieties, Mega Spileo produces top-quality products that have become a significant point of reference for Greek wine production.

Crafted with 100% Malagousia, this white wine was organically cultivated in vineyards on the Trapeza Plateau and in Vrosthena. The Trapeza vineyard is located at Agios Nikolaos, in Pera Kampos at Trapeza, Diakopto, along the northern coast of the Achaia region in West Greece. The Trapeza vineyard is planted on an amphitheatrical plateau at an altitude of about 830 metres, overlooking the Corinthian Gulf, and is a passage for visitors to the Palaeomonastero of Agios Nikolaos, and is connected to the mountain village of Trapeza via a provincial road. Spread over 13 hectares, the vineyard has sand and clay soil of varying depths and has good humidity retention. The ground also has a striking red colour due to iron oxides in the soil. The local microclimate is mild and quite dry, especially from April onwards, and is directly exposed to winds from all directions. With its proximity to the sea, the grapes benefit from both mild local temperatures and humidity, and allow the grapes to ripen earlier.

The Malagousia in this wine also comes from the Vrosthena vineyard, which is located at Apidies of Lofos, a small mountain village near Diakopto in Achaia Prefecture. This 2 hectare vineyard is planted at an altitude of between 800 and 850 metres, on a northward slope of sand and clay with good depth and drainage, with views of the Trapeza plateau and the Corinthian Gulf. Exposure and altitude form the mild local microclimate, with stable temperatures and year-round rains allowing the grapes to ripen properly.

After harvesting the grapes in early-September, it underwent a pre-fermentation extraction for about 3 hours, followed by static racking and alcoholic fermentation using selected yeasts at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks. The wine stayed in contact with its fine lees, while gently stirred, for 4 to 5 weeks. Let's see how this 2022 Malagousia from Greece is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

MEGA SPILEO MALAGOUSIA 2022 - PGI Achaia, Greece (#36837) (XD) - $19.95
Fresh and fragrant, the lifted, highly aromatic nose offers pretty aromas melon, lychee, honeysuckle, floral, and grapefruit citrus. On the dry, medium-bodied palate it has gently spicy notes followed by melon, honeysuckle, floral, lychee, and citrusy aromas replays on the flavour profile. It has juicy, bracing, and tangy acidity, while leesy mineral notes with some pleasing bitterness linger on the juicy, lightly chalky textured finish, with very good length. Highly recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Mega Spileo Estate can be found at the LCBO, or ordered through their Agent - Kolonaki Fine Wines & Spirits.

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Gorghi Tondi Coste a Preola Grillo 2022 (Sicily) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, organic Grillo from Sicily that arrived at the LCBO on the weekend in the May 11th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection. It is also featured in the theme of the release: The Wine Pantheon - Classic Euro Regions, and is widely available across Ontario today.

It is produced by Tenuta Gorghi Tondi, a family-owned estate winery located in the extreme western part of Sicily. The story of Gorghi Tondi begins with Dora, the great-grandmother of sisters Annamaria and Clara Sala, who had a love for nature, grapes, and for the land that, even a century later, continues to move the current generation of the family. Tenuta Gorghi Tondi was established in 2000 by Michele, who worked in the wine business for over forty years, and together his wife Doretta decided to start a family-owned company with their two daughters - Annamaria and Clara. The two sisters returned home from their careers and were surrounded by the family vineyards and wines, while facing a new challenge to build a future and bringing back the old dream of making premium wines in Sicily.

Situated within a nature reserve on the western part of the island of Sicily, the Sala family have been growing grapes in the area for four generations. In defence of a unique viticultural and environmental heritage, Tenuta Gorghi Tondi is led by Annamaria and Clara Sala, a family that safeguards the heritage today just as it did a century ago, while in perfect balance with its surrounding environment.

The Sala family has a strong bond with their territory, especially the High, Medium, and Low "whirlpools" (the so-called "Gorghi") that are at the heart of an oasis, which is also the inspiration for the name of the winery - Gorghi Tondi, or Round Whirlpools. Tenuta Gorghi Tondi is within a naturalistic oasis that has been protected by the WWF since 1998 because it contains a treasure of volatile and aquatic species, and rare flora. They have two properties - Ramisella and San Nicola, both within the Mazara del Vallo countryside, covering over 130 hectares of vines which overlook the horizon and are cradled by the sea breeze. The vineyards are located on mostly flat land of medium-textured soil, tending to limestone, and are characterized by excellent depth and permeability, and are close to the four small lakes of the Lakes Preola and Gorghi Tondi Nature Reserve, inside a karst depression formed due to the rains that eroded the surrounding area over time.

Organic viticulture and sustainability are core values at Tenuta Gorghi Tondi. All grapes are grown organically and certified, without the use of any synthetic chemicals, and emergency irrigation is practiced only if absolutely necessary to maintain the authentic aromas and flavours of the grapes. Gorghi Tondi actively protects flora and fauna, practices low impact on the environment, eco-sustainability, and maximum control and care for all operations in the vineyard and in the cellar. At the estate, Gorghi Tondi uses clean energy to allow for sustainable development and protect the ecosystem.

This white wine is from Gorghi Tondi's Territoriali Collection - a group of single varietal wines from their youngest vineyards. Crafted with 100% Grillo, the name of this wine is "Coste a Preola", which pays tribute to Sicily and its biodiversity, and is also the name of the vineyards' area where this Grillo was organically grown. Situated near the estate, the vineyard is also close to the Mediterranean Sea and Lake Preola within the WWF Nature Reserve. The Coste a Preola Grillo is a wine that symbolizes the strong bond between Gorghi Tondi and the oasis. Grillo is the main variety grown on the estate with over 40% of the vineyards dedicated to the varietal. Grillo benefits from a high day-night temperature range, as well as the "marine aerosol" action of the sea breeze, and the changing climatic conditions, all of which are favourable to producing excellent quality Grillo grapes.

Coste a Preola is located in southwestern Sicily, in the countryside of Mazara del Vallo, Trapani, within the San Nicola District, at an elevation of about 25 metres above sea level. The Grillo grapes come from single Guyot trained vines that are nearly 20 years old and planted on soil composed of a medium-textured limestone substrate tending to sandy. To craft this wine, the grapes were fermented at a controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks and remained in tanks for 5 months to mature on its lees.

From a favourable growing season that will be remembered as an excellent vintage, let's see how this 2022 Grillo from Sicily is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

GORGHI TONDI COSTE A PREOLA GRILLO 2022 - DOC Sicilia, Italy (#11670) (XD) - $18.95
This organic white wine has a medium-high intensity nose that is elegantly aromatic with depth, offering lovely yellow fruit, lemon oil citrus, earthy-leesy minerality, white peach, and apple aromas with whiffs of sea breeze and white florals adding further complexity. It has good weight on the dry, medium+ to medium-full bodied, well-structured palate with a lightly honeyed profile of lemon, apple, wild herbs, and saline mineral flavours. It has a very good, well-structured and textured mouthfeel and juicy, slightly tart acidity. Mineral notes linger on the savoury, lengthy, and textured finish. Should improve over the next 3-4 years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

A higher-end Grillo by Gorghi Tondi will be available at the LCBO in the coming days, while the entire portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Rare Earth Wines.

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Kacaba Reserve Riesling 2017 (Niagara) - Wine Review

To celebrate Mother's Day, tonight's white wine review is a lovely Niagara Riesling that I purchased at the winery while visiting Niagara during the Icewine Festival back in January 2020. Of course, this vintage has long sold out, while newer vintages are currently available for purchase from the winery.

Tasting Note:

KACABA RESERVE RIESLING 2017 - VQA Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (D) - $17.95
Screw cap. Lovely, fragrant, medium-high intensity nose of petrol, lemon oil citrus, waxy, white peach, and orchard fruit complexity. It's miedium+ bodied, off-dry and with delicious petrol, lemon/lime citrus, white peach, and green apple flavours with a kiss of sweetness surrounding a core of savoury, stony mineral. It has very good, lively and juicy acidity, along with a nicely chalky textured mid-palate. Leesy, limestone mineral notes linger on the long, dry-ish, crisp, and well-structured finish. Should continue to drink well over the next 3-4 years, and probably longer. Score: 90+ pts

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May 11, 2024 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: Classic Euro Regions

Here's my top wine picks from the May 11, 2024 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection. It's a big release with 111 wines on offer, with the theme of the release focusing on the Classic Euro Regions. If you can get your hands on the magazine, also included in this release is a sneak preview of the wines in the May 25 release (more on this in a couple of weeks). All wines from this release should be available for purchase online and in-stores across Ontario by Saturday.

We'll begin with the theme titled "The Wine Pantheon - Classic Euro Regions" and it consists of eighteen wines from the six major wine producing regions of Europe - Greece, France, Italy, Germany, Spain, and Portugal. Five wines from the theme are included among my top wine picks, starting in Greece with a lovely Malagousia. My lone recommendation from France is the Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which is crafted with 39% Grenache, 33% Mourvèdre, 25% Syrah, and 3% Cinsault. There are a pair of wines from Italy - the Vino Nobile is Montepulciano made with 70% Sangiovese and 30% Canaiolo, while the white wine from Sicily is certified organic and crafted with 100% Grillo. The last wine from the theme is a Portuguese red that is featured on the cover and is a 50/50 blend of Tinta Roriz and Castelão.

Red wine recommendations from the main release starts with the Rioja that is composed of Tempranillo, Grenache, Mazuelo (Carignan), and Graciano, followed by the Riserva Chianti Classico that is a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot. From France, the Bordeaux red is a composed of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot, while the red from Roussillon is made with 70% Syrah and 30% Grenache. The rest of the reds are all mono-varietal wines, including the lovely Cabernet Franc from Niagara.

There are a couple of white wine blend recommendations from the main release, with the Calabrian white a blend of Greco Bianco and Chardonnay, while the Roussillon white is composed of 80% Grenache Blanc and 20% Roussanne. Local wines also showed well with a pair of lovely wines by Featherstone - a Sauvignon Blanc and an off-dry Riesling, as well as the Westcott Chardonnay, all from Niagara. You can also pick up a fine Torrontés from Argentina, or go off the beaten path and try an Albariño from Languedoc.

Among my pink wine recommendations, on the local front, we have a Niagara rosé that is a blend of 41% Cabernet Franc, 31% Merlot, 28% Gewürztraminer, while the Prince Edward County rosé is crafted using Gamay. Lastly, the Tavel rosé is a blend of 50% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Clairette, 10% Mourvèdre, 5% Bourboulenc, and 5% Cinsault. Both sparkling wines are also blends, with the South African sparkling composed of 50% Pinot Noir, 49% Chardonnay, and 1% Meunier, while the Cava is a blend of 75% Macabeo and 25% Chardonnay.

Enjoy my top wine recommendations from this release! Cheers!

Red Wine:

• LA POSTA ARMANDO BONARDA 2022 - Mendoza, Argentina (#261586) (XD) - $14.95  88+ pts  wine review
• QUINTA DO ESPÍRITO SANTO 2020 - Vegan, Vinho Regional Lisboa, Portugal (#488015) (XD) - $14.95  88+ pts  wine review
• TARAPACÁ GRAN RESERVA CARMENÈRE 2022 - Vegan, sustainable, DO Valle del Maipo, Chile (#57513) (XD) - $17.95
• FABRE MONTMAYOU RESERVA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021 - Vegan, Perdriel, Mendoza, Argentina (#261891) (XD) - $18.95
• FABRE MONTMAYOU RESERVA MALBEC 2022 - Vegan, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina (#261867) (XD) - $18.95
• BASTIDE MIRAFLORS SYRAH / VIEILLES VIGNES GRENACHE 2021 - AP Côtes du Roussillon, France (#320499) (XD) - $19.95
• MAZZEI SER LAPO RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2020 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#288530) (XD) - $24.95
• FEATHERSTONE RESERVE CABERNET FRANC 2021 - Vegan, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#38301) (XD) - $29.95  91+ pts  wine review
• CARPINETO RISERVA VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO 2018 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#368910) (XD) - $33.95  91+ pts  wine review
• CHÂTEAU BEAU-SITE 2018 - AC Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux, France (#647933) (XD) - $48.95  93 pts  wine review
• CHÂTEAU LA NERTHE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2021 - AC, Rhône, France (#735407) (XD) - $64.95
• MUGA PRADO ENEA GRAN RESERVA 2015 - DOCa Rioja, Spain (#743310) (XD) - $78.95

White Wine:

• LAURENT MIQUEL SOLAS ALBARIÑO 2022 - IGP Aude, Languedoc, France (#36005) (XD) - $16.95
• FEATHERSTONE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 - Vegan, sustainable, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#89011) (XD) - $17.95  89 pts  wine review
• SAINT-ROCH CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON CORBAROL 2022 - AP Côtes du Roussillon, France (#175232) (XD) - $17.95
• ZUCCARDI SERIE A TORRONTÉS 2023 - Argentina (#389262) (XD) - $17.95
• FEATHERSTONE BLACK SHEEP RIESLING 2021 - Vegan, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#80234) (M) - $17.95  90 pts  wine review
• GORGHI TONDI COSTE A PREOLA GRILLO 2022 - DOC Sicilia, Italy (#11670) (XD) - $18.95  90 pts  wine review
• MEGA SPILEO MALAGOUSIA 2022 - PGI Achaia, Greece (#36837) (XD) - $19.95  89 pts  wine review
• TENUTA IUZZOLINI MADRE GOCCIA 2022 - IGT Calabria, Italy (#36512) (D) - $22.95  90 pts  wine review
  
• WESTCOTT ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2021 - VQA Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#424507) (XD) - $29.95  90+ pts  wine review

Rosé Wine:

• FEATHERSTONE ROSÉ 2023 - Vegan, sustainable, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#117861) (D) - $16.95  89 pts  wine review
• CASA-DEA ROSÉ 2021 - VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario, Canada (#38296) (XD) - $18.95  89 pts  wine review
  
• CHÂTEAU D'AQUÉRIA TAVEL ROSÉ 2023 - Cru des Côtes du Rhône, AP, France (#319368) (XD) - $24.95

Sparkling Wine:

• MURVIEDRO ARTS DE LUNA BRUT NATURE ORGANIC SPARKLING - Vegan, DOP Cava, Spain (#25073) (XD) - $14.95
• GRAHAM BECK MÉTHODE CAP CLASSIQUE BRUT PINOT NOIR / CHARDONNAY ROSÉ SPARKLING - Traditional method, WO Western Cape, South Africa (#175588) (XD) - $22.95

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The Tragically Hip Fully Completely Reserve Red 2021 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a fully and completely delicious Bordeaux-varietal red blend from Niagara that returned to the LCBO last month in the April 27 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Stoney Ridge Estate Winery, a producer that was established in December 1986 as Stoney Ridge Cellars and was the 14th licensed winery in Canada. The name of the winery comes from its inauspicious beginnings at the Weylie farm on Ridge Road in Stoney Creek. Stoney Ridge's legacy is that it is one of Canada's fledgling wineries that helped usher in the national wine industry and its rise to world-class wine production.

With a pioneering spirit, Winemaker Jim Warren and his two business partners produced their first vintage of 500 cases of 11 different wines entirely by hand and were committed to making small amounts of the very best wine possible from Ontario grapes.

Over the next few decades, Stoney Ridge grew and expanded, and moved to its new home at the base of the Niagara Escarpment in Vineland. In 2013, Stoney Ridge was purchased by famed Canadian sports broadcaster Bob McCown and continued to evolve, eventually launching the popular Tragically Hip line of wines in partnership with the iconic Canadian rock music band - The Tragically Hip.

Today, Stoney Ridge operates in partnership with the Niagara Custom Crush Studio, Canada's only Custom Crush Winemaking Facility. Still located at the newly renovated facility in Vineland, the Studio has taken over the production of all of Stoney Ridge's wines, including the celebrity wines. Stoney Ridge remains committed to producing 100% locally-sourced, VQA wines, just as it did in 1986.

Stoney Ridge has a few lines of wines, including celebrity wines. This particular wine is from their Tragically Hip range, which consists of 4 premium wines - a rosé, a white wine, and a pair of red wines. Named after their hit album and song - Fully Completely - this red wine is composed of 54% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc, and 22% Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes were grown at select vineyards across the Niagara Peninsula and mechanically harvested in late-October. The fruit arrived clean at Stoney Ridge with good flavour concentration and aromatics, with an average Brix (sugar content) of 21.5°. Upon arriving at the winery, the grapes were crushed and fermented in stainless steel tanks and one tonne fermenter bins, with each lot kept separate. After completing both alcoholic and malolactic fermentation, the wine was racked into new and seasoned French and American oak barrels for 18 months prior to blending.

The growing season in 2021 was impacted by chilly conditions, as well as a drastically wet fall during harvest. It is a vintage where picking decisions will play an important role and also tests the winemakers' skills in both the vineyard and the winery. Let's see how this 2021 Bordeaux-blend from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

THE TRAGICALLY HIP FULLY COMPLETELY RESERVE RED 2021 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#411595) (XD) - $24.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this blend of 54% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc, and 22% Cabernet Sauvignon has a medium-high intensity nose that offers enticing aromas of brambly red and dark berries, black raspberry, black cherry, and white pepper spice, plus hints of tea leaf, underbrush, and cedar wood adding further intrigue and complexity. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate, it has delicious ripe and spicy red and black berries, dark red cherry, blackberry, and red plum flavours accented with white pepper spice, tea leaf, and underbrush notes. It has juicy, well-balanced acidity, along with smooth, refined, and well-integrated tannins. Savoury and gently spicy with touches of smoke linger on the long-lasting finish. Enjoy this highly recommended with your favourite Hip song over the next 3-4 years. Score: 90+ pts

All Tragically Hip wines are currently available at the LCBO, as well as direct from the Stoney Ridge in Niagara, and through their Agent - Perigon Beverage Group.

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Cave de Roquebrun La Grange des Combes Saint-Chinian-Roquebrun 2021 (Languedoc) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of one of my perennial favourites that arrived at the LCBO as part of the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on April 27th.

It is produced by Le Vins de Roquebrun, a co-operative winery that was founded in 1967. It is located in Haut-Languedoc Natural Regional Park, approximately 30 km north of Béziers, between Montpellier and Toulouse. Le Vins de Roquebrun is the largest producer in the Saint-Chinian appellation of Languedoc, consisting of 70 winegrowers that cultivate over 700 hectares of vines, plus 30 members in the cellar. Together, their philosophy is to create wines of originality, balance, and power.

Le Vins de Roquebrun is particularly noted because of its terroir - the mild and relatively arid climate, and in combination of schist soils, which allows for particular development of grapes within the Saint-Chinian Appellation. The resulting wines are typical of the region and of recognized quality. The soils in the Saint-Chinian Appellation are more than 450 million years old and among the oldest in France. The schist soil is commonly a brown or green rock, sometimes red, with a flaky appearance. As a fine-grained rock, it is composed mostly of clay flakes and tiny fragments of other minerals, all of which are laminated by the compression of clay in the heart of the earth's crust. The laminated and fractured rocks allow the roots of the vines to infiltrate deep into the ground in the search for natural groundwater, picking up minerals along the way. The minerals in the hills and valleys of Roquebrun retain water and store heat. This heat is released slowly at night, and it is said that the grapes still grow during the night. The main objective of the winegrowers of Roquebrun is to highlight the typicality of the terroir, and thanks to their efforts, the communal appellation of AOP Saint-Chinian-Roquebrun was created in 2005.

In the vineyard, Le Vins de Roquebrun only uses a set of qualitative grape varieties, while being respectful of culture. They also have rigorous specifications to regulate pruning methods, trellising, phytosanitary treatments, and yields, with a large part of the vineyard using drip irrigation to supply the vines with water. At the winery, Roquebrun uses strict specifications depending on the grape type and quality. All the grapes are manually harvested, which allows for sorting in the vineyard. Red wines, such as this wine, are often vinified using carbonic maceration, a technique that converts the sugar into alcohol without the use of yeast. The wine cellar is situated in an air-conditioned, semi-buried storehouse, and contains 900 French oak barrels and 56 stainless steel vats, all of which are used for ageing wines, depending on the wine and vintage. As of 1998, Le Vins de Roquebrun added a bottling line and a Bag-in-Box machine to its facility.

I've enjoyed this unoaked red many times over the years, with the most recent vintage being the 2018 Cave de Roquebrun La Grange des Combes Saint-Chinian-Roquebrun a few years ago. The 2021 vintage of this lovely red wine is a blend of 50% Syrah, 30% Grenache, and 20% Mourvèdre, from selected plots that were grown on schistous soils. The grapes were manually harvested, then brought to the winery and vinified in whole bunches using carbonic maceration in vats for 25 to 30 days. It was aged in stainless steel vats in an insulated and air-conditioned cellar, and bottled at the property.

The 2021 growing season in Languedoc had severe frosts in April, which drastically cut yields. Summer conditions were hot and dry, and put the vines under drought stress, while heavy September rains arrived too late to offer much help. Overall, it is a small crop and quality is variable throughout the region. However, I am optimistic about this consistently well-made red from Saint-Chinian-Roquebrun. Let's see how this 2021 red wine from Languedoc is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CAVE DE ROQUEBRUN LA GRANGE DES COMBES SAINT-CHINIAN-ROQUEBRUN 2021 - AC, Languedoc, France (#155804) (XD) - $21.95
This unoaked blend of 50% Syrah, 30% Grenache, and 20% Mourvèdre has a fresh, lifted nose of medium-high to high intensity that is ripe and spicy with lovely red & black fruits, blackberry, raspberry, cherry, peppery spice, stony mineral, and dried herb aromas with touches of meaty and savoury notes. It is notably mid-weighted on the dry palate with complex ripe blackberry, black cherry, black raspberry, savoury meaty, stony mineral, black pepper spice, and dried herb flavours supported by tangy, juicy acidity. The smooth, refined tannins have some chalky textured and youthful grip. Stony mineral with touches of spice linger on the slightly tangy, crisp finish, with excellent length. Well-balanced and ready to drink now, but will provide pleasure over the next 5 years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

The delicious 2022 Cave de Roquebrun Soleil de Schiste is currently available at the LCBO, while the rest of the portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.

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