Kir-Yianni Cuvée Villages Xinomavro 2021 (Greece) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent, vegan-certified Xinomavro that is featured as a Food & Drink Discovery and was part of the Women in Wine theme in last weekend's March 1st LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Like the excellent 2023 Kir-Yianni Le Nord Assyrtiko I enjoyed last year, this red wine is produced by Kir-Yianni, a renowned Greek winery that was established in 1997 by the late Yiannis Boutaris (1942-2024). From the renowned Boutaris family, Yiannis was one of the leading figures in the Greek wine industry right up until his passing last year.

Yiannis left the family's wine business to chart his own path in the eastern foothills of Mt. Vermion, in Yianakohori, near the town of Naoussa, where he planted 40 hectares of Xinomavro vines in 1970. This vineyard would go on to become the Ktima Kir-Yianni. More vines would be planted in 1985, followed by the acquisition of an old winery in 1996 in the village of Agios Panteleimon. A year later, the old winery was completely rebuilt to become the new Ktima Kir-Yianni, with the first vintage entirely vinified at the new winery.

Today, Kir-Yianni is led by Yiannis' son, Stellios Boutaris, who is the fifth generation of the Boutaris family of winemakers. After becoming managing director of Kir-Yianni in 1999, Stellios was joined soon thereafter by his brother, Mihalis, who had returned from his studies at UC Davis. During this period, there was intense experimentation and research on the Xinomavro varietal. The results of these experiments were a new generation of Xinomavro wines borne in 2003, along with 28 hectares of vines that were re-planted mainly with Xinomavro and other Greek varieties between 2004 and 2006. In 2009, Kir-Yianni acquired another 10 hectares of vineyards to become one of Greece's largest vineyards.

The philosophy at Kir-Yianni is a fine balance between a hundred-year-long family tradition and the use of new and innovative winemaking techniques. The aim of Kir-Yianni is to produce appealing wines that reflect the potential of the Greek vineyard and its indigenous varieties. Activities in the vineyard and at the winery are based on the principles of integrated farming and protecting the environment. The core practices at Kir-Yianni include taking care of the vineyard, implementing strict selection policies on the vine and in the cellar, micro-vinification, and meticulously blending, thus endowing Kir-Yianni wines with typicity, ageing potential, and consistent quality from vintage to vintage. At Kir-Yianni, sustainability is both a philosophy and a vital business decision that entails dedication, realism, and systematic investment, and in 2023 they started their journey to carbon neutrality.

Margarita Koumpiou is the reason why this wine is part of the Women in Wine feature in this VINTAGES Release. Margarita holds an integrated master's degree in crop science, an honours M.A. in oenology, and a diploma in food and beverage quality management. At Kir-Yianni, Margarita is an oenologist and works closely with Stellios.

This red wine is crafted using 100% Xinomavro that was grown in various villages across PDO Naoussa. More specifically, it was crafted using a strict selection of estate-grown grapes from younger vines, as well as parcels from small vine growers. The villages of Naoussa offer an interesting diversity of terroir, including their hilly terrains, altitude, slope, soil structure, and orientation, conditions which provide an intriguing mixture of meso-climates. To vinify this wine, the grapes were immediately cooled upon hand-harvesting, then underwent a rigorous grape selection on a conveyor belt. The grapes were then cold soaked at low temperatures for 6 days, followed by fermentation in stainless steel tanks at temperatures of 20–23°C for 12 to 15 days. After undergoing malolactic fermentation, the wine was matured mainly in 225- and 500-litre French oak barrels for 12 months in a combination of new and 3rd to 5th use barrels. The first blend was made on the 6th month of maturation, while the final blend was completed just before bottling.

The 2021 growing season in Naoussa began with a typical winter, followed by a cool March that resulted in a longer time for budbreak to complete. Dry conditions with significant diurnal variation in April and May led to a slightly early flowering, while summer began with hail in June, which decreased yields in the affected areas. July and August were characterized by long heatwaves and dry conditions, which resulted in the rapid (and positive) development of veraison in early August. From September onwards, weather conditions were typical and back to ideal standards, which allowed for the full ripening of Xinomavro. To ensure optimum ripeness, the grapes were handpicked in stages from late-September to mid-October. From a different year with positive results and great uniformity, let's see how this 2021 Xinomavro from Greece is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

KIR-YIANNI CUVÉE VILLAGES XINOMAVRO 2021 - Vegan, PDO Naoussa, Greece (#14151) (XD) - $18.00
Fragrant, intense, and slightly perfumed nose of red and dark cherry, rose floral, and touches of orange peel layered over savoury earth, plus accents of oak spice and sundried tomato adding further intrigue and complexity. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it has lovely ripe red & black cherry, blackberry, savoury earth, oak spice, sundried tomato, and rose floral flavours supported by juicy acidity and well-structured, medium-firm, and fairly grippy tannins that are youthful, yet approachable. Cherry, earthy, and floral notes with a slight tang and some minerality lingering on the very long finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Several other fantastic wines by Kir-Yianni are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Kolonaki Fine Wines & Spirits.