Wakefield Jaraman Shiraz 2021 (Australia) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review, and my first wine of 2024, is this lovely, premium Australian Shiraz that returned to the LCBO last month in the December 16th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by the renowned and well-respected Wakefield Wines, also known as Taylors Wines in their home market in Australia. The estate winery was established in 1969 by the Wakefield River in Clare Valley, South Australia, by Bill Taylor Sr., a wine merchant who was inspired by Bordeaux wine producers and had a vision of crafting his own family estate wines that rival the best in the world.

Today, the family-owned estate is led by the third generation of the Taylor family - brothers Mitchell, Justin, and Clinton - as they carry on their grandfather's tradition of staying true to their core values of quality, authenticity, and craftsmanship. The Taylor family continues its dedication to crafting wines of exceptional quality by using innovative winemaking techniques, while also implementing sustainable viticultural practices. As stewards of the land, the Taylor family is committed to sustainability in both rural and urban settings, as well as on land and in the sea. Their love for winemaking, keen eye for detail, and commitment to excellence have made Wakefield Wines a renowned producer of some of Australia's top wines.

Wakefield Wines has several ranges of wines, and this particular red wine is from their Jaraman range, which consists of this wine, two other reds, and a Chardonnay. As Australia's iconic wine regions provide great diversity, with the Jaraman range, the Taylor family seeks out parcels of extraordinary fruit to craft wines that showcase their distinctive regional characteristics and style. The grapes for Jaraman wines are sourced from celebrated Australian wine regions that are renowned for their particular variety. At the winery, the winemakers ensure that the distinct regional characteristics are preserved and enhanced, with the fruit playing the leading role in the wine, while any winemaking influence plays only a supporting role. Jaraman wines showcase the skill and dedication of the winemakers towards their philosophy of respecting the fruit.

Like the 2020 Wakefield Jaraman Shiraz that I enjoyed a couple of summers ago, this red wine from Australia is crafted with 100% Shiraz from fruit grown in both Clare Valley (54%) and McLaren Vale (46%), a blend that has been more or less the same for several vintages now. The individual parcels were kept separate during the vinification process and after fermentation, the wines were matured for an average of 12 months in used coopers’ American oak hogsheads, with 30% in 1-year-old casks and the rest in 2-3 year-old casks. The different parcels were then blended and bottled.

Idyllic growing conditions that were slightly warmer than average were prevalent throughout most of Australia during 2021. The season was markedly calm, with a near perfect ratio between warm, sunny days and intermittent rain. In the Clare Valley, the grapes produced wines of excellent quality and high acidity, while McLaren Vale had healthy yields that were bolstered by rainfall in early February. A mild Autumn in McLaren Vale kept sugar levels at bay and helped produce grapes with strong varietal definition, concentrated aromas, and deep colour and tannins. Overall, it is a vintage rated as good-to-excellent and produced fantastic wines from South Australia.

After enjoying a different bottling of the 2021 Wakefield Jaraman Shiraz last summer, let's see how this 2021 Australian Shiraz is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

WAKEFIELD JARAMAN SHIRAZ 2021 - Clare Valley/McLaren Vale, South Australia (#377036) (XD) - $24.95
Screw cap. The fragrant and open, the medium-high to highly aromatic nose delivers rich, dark fruited, jammy blackberry, minty herb, and wood spice aromas layered over dark currant, and dark plum. It's medium+ bodied on the dry, dark, and sweet fruited palate with jammy blackberry, cedary oak, minty herb, dark currant, black pepper, black cherry, and dark plum flavours which are supported by fresh, well-balanced acidity. Ripe tannins are smooth and refined, with good structure and a mild grip. Smoky mineral notes linger on the long, savoury finish. Enjoy this recommended buy over the next 5+ years. Score: 90 pts

Other lovely Wakefield Wines can be purchased at the LCBO or through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Domaine Pansiot Côte de Nuits-Villages 2021 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent, sustainably crafted Pinot Noir from the Côte de Nuits-Villages appellation in Burgundy. Brand new to our market, it arrived in Ontario as an Online & Flagship Exclusive in the recent December 2nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, with good quantities still available for purchase.

It is produced by Domaine Pansiot, a small, family-owned estate that was created in 1981 by Eric Pansiot in the commune of Corgoloin, within the Côte de Nuits district in northern Burgundy, between Beaune and Nuits-Saint-Georges, near the border where the appellations of Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune separate. The area of Corgoloin has a strong tradition of wine, agriculture, and quarrying dating back to 1847.

Eric Pansiot established the estate with just 4 hectares of vines, but in 1991 he acquired a further 5 hectares of vines. In 2000, Eric created a SCEA agricultural company with his wife, Chantal Pansiot, and a gentleman from Welsh, Marc Thomson, and together they had 15 hectares of vines. Joining the family business in 2005 was Emilie Pansiot, daughter of Eric, and in the ensuing years the company continued to grow and expand by acquiring plots in the communes of Meursault, Gevrey Chambertin, Beaune, Chorey les Beaune, and Savigny les Beaune. Today, they have 21 hectares of vines across 19 different appellations, producing wines using grapes from all of these Burgundian appellations.

This red wine is crafted with 100% Pinot Noir that was grown in the appellation of Côte de Nuits-Villages, but is mainly composed of grapes grown in the commune of Corgoloin. The terroir in this area consists of hill-slopes that are gentle and regular, and carved into the hard limestones of the Upper Bathonian, during the Jurassic period of about 167 million years ago. In the upper part, the brown soil is only slightly limy, while lower down there is a thick layer of pebbly scree, and at the foot of the slope there is an extensive area of brown soil over accumulated alluvium.

The 2021 vintage was undoubtedly a challenging one with wild and unpredictable weather. The growing season began off the back of a balmy winter, which initiated early vine growth and budbreak. Because of the early start, the vines were susceptible to the elements, and in April the temperatures took a sharp dive and included a bout of vicious frost, followed by snow. Summer arrived with depressing, intermittent rains throughout. Spirits were finally raised in June, when temperatures rose and there were enough sunny days to dry out the vines, which also resulted in early flowering. However, heavy rain throughout July and August meant that growers had to be vigilant in keeping both rot and disease at bay. The weather finally eased up before veraison, allowing the fruit to dry out and ripen, with the reds unusually ripening before the whites. Overall, this was one of Burgundy's smallest ever vintages, which was also cooler-than-usual. The wines that were produced are very good to excellent, offering a classic and refined Burgundian style. Let's see how this 2021 Pinot Noir from Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE PANSIOT CÔTE DE NUITS-VILLAGES 2021 - Sustainable, AC, Burgundy, France (#34252) (XD) - $48.95
100% Pinot Noir assembled mainly from the Corgoloin commune. The fragrant, medium-high intensity nose offers cool aromas of red and black cherries, and red currant with whiffs of savoury mushroom, forest floor, cinnamon spice, and roses adding intrigue and complexity. It is intensely flavoured on the mid-weighted palate with lovely red currant, cran-sour cherry, raspberry, cinnamon spice, roses, and red plum flavours, plus some minerality and black tea notes. Juicy acids are fresh and lively, while the light tannins are fine-grained with good structure. Shows elegance throughout, with red currant, cherry, raspberry, and mineral notes lingering on the long, crisp finish. Gorgeous and a highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other fine wines by Domaine Pansiot can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia / Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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El Enemigo Chardonnay 2022 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is one of my favourite Chardonnays from Argentina. While the printed magazine specifies the 2020 vintage, in actuality it was the 2022 vintage that arrived at the LCBO earlier this month as part of the theme on Fine Wines for Festive Entertaining in the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on December 2nd.

It is produced by El Enemigo Wines, a passion project that was established in 2008 by two friends - highly-acclaimed winemaker Alejandro Vigil and historian Adrianna Catena. Alejandro is a soil expert who has been with Bodega Catena Zapata as their chief winemaker for more than 20 years, while Adrianna is the younger sister of Dr. Laura Catena, as well as the youngest daughter of legend Nicolas Catena, of the famed Catena family of Argentina.

The name "El Enemigo" means "the enemy", and was inspired by Dante Alighieri's poem "The Divine Comedy". The credo behind the name is the struggle that most defines us in our lives is the one we wage with ourselves - we are our own worst enemy. The philosophy is to embrace the "enemy" or challenges in winemaking, confronting the difficulties and turning them into opportunities for creating exceptional wines.

Today, El Enemigo is situated among the high-altitude vineyards in the Uco Valley and has gained a reputation for producing some of Argentina's finest wines. The wines of El Enemigo are enigmatic, charismatic, and verging on iconoclastic, and in a way they reflect their maker, Alejandro, with an almost Picasso-like personality. While he consults and contributes academic research on soils and microbial composition, with El Enemigo he plays and expresses himself creatively. At the same time, the wines of El Enemigo are sensitive to historical blends and traditions as some of the grapes come from some of the oldest vineyard sites in the region.

Like the 2018 El Enemigo Chardonnay that I enjoyed last year, this vintage was also grown in the region of Gualtallary, within the Tupungato district in the northern reaches of the Uco Valley, at a high-altitude of 1,470 metres (4,822 feet) above sea level on deep-calcareous and rocky soil. It was fermented using wild yeast in 500 L French oak barrels, with 35% new barrels, followed by ageing under veil (flor yeast) for 12 months in 500 L French oak barrels.

The 2022 growing season delivered another successful harvest, although the year did have its challenges. In Mendoza, the region began with a cool, dry spring, as well as little snowfall, which resulted in less water flowing down to a region already suffering from severe water shortages. Further challenges arrived when five frosts, some severe, occurred between October and November in the Uco Valley. The white grape varieties were a big challenge due to rain that arrived at the end of spring, between December and February, and was concentrated to a few weeks. However, if the harvest was done well, good quality with fresher wines is achieved. Let's see how this 2022 Chardonnay from Argentina is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

EL ENEMIGO CHARDONNAY 2022 - Mendoza, Argentina (#482984) (XD) - $25.95
Using wild yeast, this was fermented and aged in French oak barrels. The fragrant, medium-high intensity nose is ripe and appealing with pineapple, banana, citrus, caramel, toffee, butter, and leesy flor aromas. It's mid-weighted with good concentration, well-structured, sweet fruited, yet dry, with delicious banana, pineapple, lemon citrus, apple, toffee/caramel, leesy flor, and buttery flavours in a complex profile with all vying for attention. Acids are crisp and fresh, plus a touch of spice notes on the mid-palate. The long finish is dry with lingering notes of smoke and mineral. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 4-5 years. Score: 92 pts

Other lovely wines by El Enemigo can found at the LCBO or through their Agent - Noble Estates Wine & Spirits.

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Pommery Pink POP Rosé Champagne (France) - Wine Review

Since it is the season for bubbly, tonight's sparkling wine review is a delicious Champagne that is packaged in a convenient, wallet-friendly, and individually-sized Piccolo bottle of 200 mL. It was a brand-new arrival in the October 21 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection - and still widely available - and makes a fine option for when you don't want to open a full 750 mL bottle.

It is produced by Champagne Pommery, a prestigious Champagne house with a rich history that was founded in 1836 by Alexandre Louis Pommery. However, it was only after his death in 1958, that his young widow, Madame Pommery, took over with a drive to conquer national and international markets by inventing the luxurious image of the Pommery brand and steering the Maison to success and glory.

One of the lasting legacies of Madame Pommery was the creation of the first vintage brut Champagne in 1874, a dry style of traditional method sparkling wine that was a revolution in Champagne during a time when the prevailing taste was sweet-toothed. The success of this wine led to a new dynasty in Champagne, while also establishing the fame and style of Maison Pommery.

Pommery has always challenged generally accepted ideas by imposing its innovative and avant-garde approach. During the 1930s, Maison Pommery launched a quartet of Veuve Pommery (VP) Champagne in a 200 mL format, an idea that was initially conceived by Marquis Melchior de Polignac, son of Madame Pommery, and contributed to the expansion of the Pommery brand to international markets.

Following the success of VP, Pommery was the first to launch the POP Champagne range of wines in 1999, which revolutionized the market for Champagne. Today, the Pommery POP range consists of POP (in a blue bottle), Pink POP (this bottle), and the Gold POP Vintage Champagne which is crafted from only classified Grand Cru vineyards. All three wines are packaged in Piccolo bottles and was the first Champagne especially blended to be consumed directly from the bottle or with a straw.

In keeping with the spirit of POP, Pink POP remains resolutely young and fresh, with a delicious flavour that is almost sensual. It was produced according to the same principals that Pommery holds so dearly in the production of its rosé wines - a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot wines, with a dash of red wine. Let's see how this Pink POP Rosé Champagne is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

POMMERY PINK POP ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE - AC, France (#16944) (D) (200 mL) - $19.95
Crafted with Chardonnay and Pinot, this has a medium+ to medium-high intensity nose of fine autolytic, toasty, and brioche characters accented with strawberry and cherry. There's an appealing kiss of sweetness on the cherry, strawberry, toasty, and brioche flavoured palate that is a touch spicy. It has crisp and lively acidity and bubbles, as well as some delicious autolytic notes on the mid-palate. The finish is long, dry, and crisp, with leesy mineral and very good length. A solid, recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other delicious sparkling wines by Champagne Pommery are available at the LCBO, and through their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.

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Piera 1899 Terre Magre (Friuli) Virtual Wine Tasting

In September, I had the pleasure of attending an exclusive virtual wine tasting via Zoom to taste the latest wines from Piera 1899's Terre Magre line of wines - a pure expression of Friuli. Leading the presentation and tasting were Anna Polon, Sales and Marketing Director, and she was joined by Gianpietro Poveglian, Oenologist at Piera 1899.

The wines of Terre Magre are produced by Piera 1899, a winery whose story begins in 1899 on a farm that was situated in the commune of Padua in northern Italy's Veneto wine region, when the first generation of the Martellozzo family entered the world of wine.

Today, the family business is led by Piera, the granddaughter of Giovanni Martellozzo. Grandfather Giovanni took his first steps in the world of wine during an important time in history, as he understood that the rise of new social classes would create demand for a different type of drink - wine. He seized the opportunity to make a wider audience appreciate wines from his territory, as well as those from other regions. Piera's operations stretched from Veneto to Friuli Venezia Giulia in the north, to Southern Italy, passing through Umbria. In the 1960s, Giovanni spent most of his time working on the countryside property located in Lison Pramaggiore, while leaving the main house in Padua to his children. Mario, one of five Martellozzo brothers, would lead the company towards the future by expanding production and taking sales beyond national borders. Mario always had a vision that his daughter, Piera, would be the future leader of the family business, and in 1992 that vision became a reality when he handed the entire company over to her.

With Piera at the helm, she aimed to distinguish the company's activities by working on the quality of the products, re-evaluating native varieties, and creating a very close bond with other territories, particularly in Triveneto. Since the 90s, the greatly overlooked native varieties of Raboso del Piave and Ribolla Gialla have been revived, while in 1998 Piera created their first line of organic wines.

In 2001, Piera 1899 acquired a company in the region of Friuli Venezia Giulia, a territory that was close to Piera. She decided to make this property her home and move the family business into the heart of Friuli Grave - an area known for the remarkable organoleptic characteristics of its vines which yield fragrant and aromatic wines thanks to strong seasonal and diurnal temperature variations. The ensuing adventure in Friuli began with an extensive analysis of the territory and its extraordinary biodiversity through a more complete mapping of the various winegrowing areas with the help of Gianpietro Poveglian, an Oenologist and Agronomist appointed to select the grapes for Piera's project. Open to innovation while respecting traditions, Piera would set a new course in the family's history, while becoming the face of the brand named after her - Piera 1899.

Today, while Piera 1899 is still family-owned, it is part of Gruppo Martellozzo, a group that also includes the brands Martellozzo and Blu Giovello. Gruppo Martellozzo was one of the first producers in Friuli, and it is currently made up of 26 professionals who work in synergy while forging a strong territorial identity of their wines. Interestingly, the company exports over 50% of their wines abroad, with Canada as the top export country with 45% exported to Canada.

The philosophy at Piera 1899 is based on expertise and quality, with the aim of bringing wines of territorial identity to the world. They invest in not only native varieties, but also international varieties that can aptly express the territory on which they are grown. Endowed with a deep knowledge of the terroir, Piera 1899 also has an eye towards the future. As one of the first wineries to believe in organic farming, Piera 1899 is an advocate for protecting the environment, while also being a pioneer of an approach based on sustainable agriculture.

Piera 1899 is situated within Friuli Grave DOC, a denomination within the wine region of Friuli Venezia Giulia. Friuli Grave is located at the foot of the Dolomites, an area sheltered from the cold, northern winds, that also benefits from the mitigating influence of the nearby Adriatic Sea to the south, thereby creating a microclimate that is particularly suitable for vine cultivation. Historically, this area has been cultivated with vines since the Roman Era. An area of about 7,500 hectares, the Grave is characterized by a steppe of alluvial origin called the Magredi - a rocky area that offers a unique landscape thanks to the particular microclimate and porous composition of the soil, where water flows between the stones and resurfaces in springs downstream. The natural landscape is distinguished by a plain and the erosive actions of the Meduna, Cellina, and Tagliamento rivers. The waters dragged huge amounts of limestone-dolomite material that was deposited downstream, along the riverbed. The result is more evident in the northern area known as Magredi, an area where the vine has found its ideal habitat with white pebbles in the vineyards that absorb the sun's heat, protects the plant, and favours a distinct seasonal temperature variation.

The range of Terre Magre wines faithfully express the wine heritage of Friuli Grave and embody Piera's philosophy. The labels of Terre Magre wines represent the territory, with the top edge representing the Dolomites, while just below are vineyards and pebbles which are embossed on to the label, and lastly, the lines represent the Meduna and Cellina rivers. Terre Magre wines are highly recognizable, mono-varietal wines characterized by good structure, drinkability, persistent fruity and mineral notes, distinct flavour, and typical scents of the territory. The grapes of each Terre Magre wine flourish in a naturally enchanting and splendid environment in Magredi.

I tasted 6 of the 11 wines in the Terre Magre line, and my clear favourites were both Pinot Grigio wines, and Friuli's rising star - Ribolla Gialla. All the wines in the Terre Magre line are vegan-friendly and vinified and aged in stainless steel.

Thank you to Piera 1899 and Wellcom Marketing for arranging the opportunity to taste these lovely wines. While these wines aren't currently available at the LCBO, in Ontario, they can be ordered through their Agent - Andrew Peller Import Agency.

Tasting Notes:

TERRE MAGRE RIBOLLA GIALLA 2022 - DOC Friuli Colli Orientali, Italy (XD)
Elegant and fresh, the medium+ intensity nose offers attractive aromas of white floral, melon, mandarin orange, honeysuckle, and white peach with some leesy mineral notes adding a savoury component to the bouquet. It has very good weight on the dry, medium-full bodied and textured palate with lovely, floral and citrusy aroma replays plus ripe apple and pear notes, supported by fresh, succulent acidity. It has a very pleasant, fine leesy texture on the mid-palate. The melon, honeysuckle, peach, orange citrus, and leesy mineral notes all appear right through to the long, balanced, and very satisfying finish. Score: 90+ pts

TERRE MAGRE SAUVIGNON 2022 - DOC Friuli, Italy (XD)
100% Sauvignon Blanc. Fresh, fragrant, and highly aromatic on the nose with ripe lemon/lime citrus, sage, tropical fruits such as kiwi, guava, and passion fruit aromas, plus notes of grass and herbs. It has good weight on the medium-full bodied and ripe palate with delicious lemon/lime citrus, sage, grassy, grapefruit, and tropical fruit flavour replays flecked with ripe, honeyed fruit notes. It has a fine, leesy textured mouthfeel that is supported by gentle acidity, while leesy mineral and lime citrus notes linger on the long, flavourful finish. Score: 89 pts

TERRE MAGRE PINOT GRIGIO 2022 - DOC Friuli, Italy (XD)
Aged on its lees until spring, this has a medium to medium-high intensity nose that offers attractive aromas of orange blossom, lemon citrus, and floral notes with hints of honey suckle, lemon peel, and herbal tones. It is impressively weighted on the medium+ to medium-full bodied, and nicely textured palate. It’s dry and ripe with lightly honeyed flavours layered over citrus, orange blossom, and floral notes, plus touches of sweet herbs and leesy minerals adding complexity. Crisp acidity is fresh and juicy, while leesy mineral and lemon peel notes linger on the long, textured finish. Score: 90+ pts

TERRE MAGRE L'ALTRO PINOT GRIGIO 2022 - DOC Friuli, Italy (XD)
A limited edition bottling of approx. 6,000 bottles, this was partially fermented with skins for 10-15 days and aged on its lees for 6-7 months. Pretty, pink salmon colour. The fragrant, medium-high intensity nose is elegant and quite complex with pink grapefruit, leesy mineral, citrus, and floral aromas joined by hints of melon, honeysuckle, and creamed corn. On the medium+ to medium-full bodied palate it is impressively weighted, concentrated, and dry with spiced flavours of pink grapefruit, citrus, melon, and floral characters. It has a very nice, chalky textured mineral mouthfeel on the mid-palate, plus fresh and vibrant acidity. Lovely leesy mineral notes linger on the long, juicy, and balanced finish, with excellent length. Score: 91+ pts

TERRE MAGRE PINOT NERO 2022 - DOC Friuli, Italy (XD)
Fresh and fruity nose delivers aromas of ripe red cherry, strawberry, and cranberry nuanced with earthy beetroot, spice, and a touch of tea leaf. The fruity notes continue on the light-to-mid-weighted palate with red fruited cran-cherry, strawberry, spice, earth flavours with herbal, mineral, and saline touches on the mid-palate. It’s supported by fresh acidity and elegant, light, fine, and dusty textured tannins. Savoury with mineral notes linger on the long, textured finish. Score: 89 pts

TERRE MAGRE MERLOT 2022 - DOC Friuli, Italy (#29821) (D) - $22.95
Unoaked, 100% Merlot with 8% appassimento style. The medium-high intensity aromatics are fragrant, open, and complex with fruit forward dark and red berries, cherry, black cherry, and currant aromas, plus some spices and dried herbs. It’s medium+ to medium-full bodied on the dry palate with delicious currant, black cherry, dark berry, and cocoa flavours with hints of dark plum and savoury, earthy undertones. It has a supple mouthfeel with well-structured tannins, while the fresh acidity hides the kiss of sweetness. Cocoa and savoury earth notes linger on the finish, with very good length. Score: 89 pts

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Fogolar Hughes Vineyard Riesling 2019 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely Riesling that I purchased in December of last year. It was a brand-new arrival in the December 17, 2022 LCBO VINTAGES Release and was slated to be opened during the holidays last year, but it never happened, so here we are a year later.

Surprisingly, there are still about 30 bottles available at the LCBO, while the latest vintage can be ordered via Collab Wine & Beverage.

Tasting Note:

FOGOLAR HUGHES VINEYARD RIESLING 2019 - VQA Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#30664) (M) - $19.95
Screw cap. The fragrant nose offers attractive honeyed and floral characters nuanced with lemon/lime citrus and petrol aromas. It has good weight on the medium+-full bodied, concentrated palate, with lovely honey, floral, lemon/lime citrus, and petrol replays joined by peach, apple, and leesy mineral flavours. It's medium-dry in sweetness, with a crunchy mouthfeel and well-balanced acidity, while tapering to a dry-ish, lightly chalky textured finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

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Wynns Coonawarra Estate Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 (Australia) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent and historic 64th vintage of a Cabernet Sauvignon from Coonawarra in South Australia that returned to the LCBO earlier this month as part of the December 2nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Wynns Coonawarra Estate, a historic and renowned winery in Coonawarra, South Australia, that was established in 1891 by visionary Scottish pioneer John Riddoch. After moving to the Coonawarra region in 1861, he divided 800 hectares of terra rossa soil on his land and called it the Coonawarra Fruit Colony. He then offered four-hectare allotments to those interested and began planting his first vineyards in 1891, with 95,000 vines and 10,000 fruit trees planted in the first year. That same year, the famous triple-gabled winery and surrounding vineyards were built and named Chateau Comaum. By 1897, 141 hectares of vines were being cultivated, including 52 hectares by Riddoch. However, after a promising start, the Coonawarra Fruit Colony failed to prosper due to is distance from major markets and poor economic conditions, and John Riddoch died on July 15, 1901, at the age of 73.

In the first half of the 20th century, Coonawarra was at its lowest ebb as a wine-producing area. Although "Coonawarra Claret" was well-recognized in Australia, the red wine market was small as most Australians consumed fortified wines. The winery was destined to become a wool shed and sheep run until it was purchased in 1951 by Melbourne-based winemakers Samuel Wynn and his son David. With no expectations of making a profit, David took over the operations in 1953 and was Australia's first wine producer to use the word "estate" to mark the wine's regionality. It was during this time that David commissioned Melbourne artist Richard Beck to produce a woodcut of the winery facade - an illustration that has appeared on (almost) every Wynns Coonawarra Estate label since, and is one of Australia's most recognized wine symbols.

Beginning in the 1960s, as Australians began to develop a taste for dry red table wine, Wynns consistently marketed Coonawarra Estate wines based on their variety and place of origin, building awareness of the Coonawarra district as a region of outstanding wines. Wynns' success led to expansion, and by 1981 it was the largest grower in the district with 440 hectares under vine. In 1982, Wynns produced their first wine bearing John Riddoch's name.

The 1990s brought a new chapter in the history of Wynns when, in 1993, Winemaker Sue Hodder worked her first vintage at the estate alongside then Senior Winemaker Peter Douglas. In 1998, Sue was appointed Senior Winemaker - a position she holds to this day, while Sarah Pidgeon was welcomed to the team. Since the turn of the century, as Senior Winemaker, the renowned Sue Hodder oversaw the release of all the Wynns' first single vineyard wines, as well as the major rejuvenation projects across 300 hectares of vines. In 2004, Wynns Coonawarra Estate celebrated its 50th vintage of the iconic Wynns Coonawarra Estate Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon and marked the occasion by hosting many of the world's most influential wine tasters in Coonawarra for a special tasting of 50 vintages of this iconic wine.

In 2008, another round of replanting took place with new rootstocks, international vine clones, and selections from older top-quality Wynns vineyards. By 2015, Wynns vineyards were consolidated around the Gables winery, in the prime Terra Rossa vineyard sites of the region, with ongoing research and studies to ensure the best winemaking and viticultural practices are engaged for the future.

In 2016, Sue and Sarah were jointly named "Winemaker of the Year" at the Australian Society of Viticulture and Oenology (ASVO) Awards for excellence, while in 2017 Sue was awarded "Women of Inspiration" at the Women in Wine awards. In 2022, Sue Hodder celebrated her 30th vintage at Wynns and continues to bring valuable experience and passion to her work locally and internationally.

Coonawarra is named after an Aboriginal word meaning "honeysuckle". The region is situated in South Australia, 450 km west of Melbourne (Victoria) and 380 km southeast of Adelaide (South Australia). The region's claim to fame is its natural soil phenomenon called the terra rossa - a low, cigar-shaped ridge of soil stretching 20 kilometres long and up to two kilometres wide. Terra rossa, or red earth, is a topsoil that is rich and free-draining, but also thin. It ranges from 5 to 100 cm deep and is one of the best soils in Australia for winegrowing, producing small, well-coloured berries that develop well in optimal sunlight. The climate in Coonawarra is cool and marginal as it receives the cool Antarctic winds via the Southern Ocean, and helps ensure a long, cool ripening period which builds intensity of flavours slowly in the grape, as well as balanced acidity.

First produced in 1954, the Wynns Black Label Cabernet is truly an icon of Australian wine. Since its first vintage, it has had a reputation for ageing gracefully and displaying excellent varietal and regional characteristics. It is produced from only the top 20 to 25 percent quality of Cabernet Sauvignon fruit that is grown on Wynns' terra rossa vineyards. It was matured for 14 months in 31% new and seasoned French oak, in a combination of 61% hogsheads, 26% barriques, and 13% vats.

The 2019 growing season in Coonawarra was fed by good winter rains, and highlighted the importance of the good quality and quantity of underground water that was used to mitigate temperature and seasonal weather conditions. There was no significant crop loss due to the heat, while canopies remained in excellent condition right through to the end of harvest. The grapes also benefited significantly from the typically cool nights created by the Southern Ocean. A cool and dry April was perfect for ripening, allowing for full flavour development and optimal sugar levels, while yields were between average and just below the long-term average. Cabernet Sauvignon grapes were deep and rich in colour with great varietal definition and soft ripe tannins. Overall, the 2019 vintage in Coonawarra is considered to be excellent.

As a wine of style, stature, and a perennial favourite, the Black Label is one of Australia's benchmark Cabernet Sauvignon wines and can consistently be aged over the medium to long-term. Let's see how this 2019 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE BLACK LABEL CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019 - Coonawarra, South Australia (#84996) (XD) - $47.95
Screw cap. The medium-high intensity nose is fragrant and open with attractive aromas of leafy grilled herbs, red & black fruits, currant, cherry, cassis, and fine wood spice with touches of mint and savoury earth. It's full-bodied, ripe, and dry with lovely red and black fruited cherry, currant, cassis, mint, and leafy herb flavours on the palate. It's well-structured with fresh, juicy acidity and ripe, structured, and fine-grained tannins that are youthful and a touch grippy. More savoury with earth and wood spice notes on the mid-palate, which linger through to the long, gently smoky finish. Enjoyable now, but still a few years away from prime drinking and should age gracefully into the 2040s. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

One other fine wine by Wynns Coonawarra Estate can be found at the LCBO, while the entire range can be ordered through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.

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