La Chapelle de Lafaurie-Peyraguey Sauternes 2015 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is this lovely Sauternes from Bordeaux that arrived at the LCBO in last month's December 6 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection - with plenty of bottles still available for purchase across Ontario.

It is produced by the prestigious and historic Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey, a 1er Grand Cru Classé estate in the 1855 classification of Sauternes. It has changed hands many times over the years, and is currently owned by Vignobles Silvio Denz, who acquired the historic property in 2014.

Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey is situated on high ground just outside the village of Bommes, in the heart of the great Sauternes terroir, in Bordeaux, on a high gravelly terrace, 70 metres above sea level, next to the iconic Château d'Yquem. At the heart of Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey are their two named plots - L'Enclos and Les Maisons Rouges - which have great terroir consisting of gravel from the Quaternary period that was deposited more than 600,000 years ago, on a substratum of Aquitania limestone.

The property itself is very old, with the Maisons Rouges plot a stopping place during Roman times. Moreover, the oldest stones in the surrounding wall and entrance are thought to be the oldest structures in the commune of Bommes, dating back to the 13th century. These stones and the château's archives, which go back to 1742, are evidence of Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey's rich past and represent eight centuries of history.

Today, Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey is a completely restored and renovated property equipped with technical facilities that comply with new regulatory and environmental constraints, including air-conditioning and humidity control throughout. In 2018, Lafaurie-Peyraguey celebrated their 400th anniversary by opening the Lalique hotel-restaurant.

Recognized as a Sauternes Premier Grand Cru Classé in the 1855 classification, the identity of Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey's wines are forged from the co-existence of four elements: the terroir between the Garonne and Ciron rivers, characterized by its gravelly-sandy soil; a unique microclimate; the presence of the botrytis cinerea fungus ("noble rot"); and the predominant grape variety, Sémillon. The château's historic plots of 18.5 hectares of vines are managed according to principles of organic agriculture and ploughed using horses.

This dessert wine is the second wine of Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey, and takes its name from the château's most iconic location - La Chapelle - or, the chapel. It is crafted using a blend of 93% Sémillon, 6% Sauvignon Blanc, and 1% Muscadelle, from vines that are about 30 years old and grown at the estate. To craft this wine, harvest was carried out manually using successive passes and sorting, varying between 4 and 7 passes depending on the year and advanced ripeness of the grapes. It was vinified using the same methods as their top bottling, with 18–30 days in fine-grained French barrels, followed by ageing for 18 to 20 months in French oak barrels.

The 2015 growing season in Sauternes was warm and dry early, and cool and wet late. However, the rains were light and separated by periods of dry weather, which allowed for waves of botrytis growth and leisurely picking. While there was less noble rot than previous years, there was enough to enable a good vintage. Harvest earlier than normal and very successful, with fantastic fruit having botrytized characters and balanced acidity. From an excellent vintage, let's see how this 2015 Sauternes from Bordeaux is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LA CHAPELLE DE LAFAURIE-PEYRAGUEY SAUTERNES 2015 - AOC, second wine of Ch. Lafaurie-Peyraguey, Bordeaux, France (#477588, 375 mL) (S) - $40.95
Blend of 93% Sémillon, 6% Sauvignon Blanc, and 1% Muscadelle. The medium-high intensity nose has maturing, slightly oxidated aromas of Seville orange, marmalade, and spice nuanced with caramel, honey, and apricot with touches of golden raisin. The full-bodied palate is rich and sweet with delicious honey, caramel, Seville orange, vanilla, waxy, marmalade and spice flavours. It has juicy, well-balanced acidity, along with spicy notes on the mid-palate. Creamy textured with caramel, waxy, orange, and spice notes in a more savoury profile on the long finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92+ pts

Other lovely wines by Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey can be ordered through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.

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Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo 2022 (Piedmont) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of a beautiful, vegan-friendly Nebbiolo from Langhe DOC in Piedmont that arrived at LCBO outlets across Ontario in last month's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on December 6th - with bottles still available for purchase across the province.

It is produced by Vietti, a prestigious and historic estate winery situated in the village of Castiglione Falletto, within the Barolo wine region of Piedmont in northwest Italy. It was established in the 1800s by Carlo Vietti, then taken over in 1917 by his son, Mario, who transformed the family farm into a winemaking facility dedicated to the production of high-quality wines.

In the late-1950s, Luciana Vietti, daughter of Mario, and her husband and winemaker Alfredo Currado, who were both great admirers of art, took Vietti to new heights by intertwining winemaking knowledge, art, and culture. The ambition, foresight, and pioneering spirit of Alfredo helped create in 1961 one of the first Barolo Cru - Rocche di Castiglione, followed a few years later by their first Roero Arneis. Matched with artist labels in 1974, the Vietti brand became an icon and standard-bearer of one of the most important revolutions of the time.

In the 1980s, the winery was taken over by Mario Cordero, the son-in-law of Luciana and Alfredo. And in the 1990s, Mario was joined by the son of Luciana and Alfredo, Luca Currado Vietti, and Luca's wife, Elena. Under the leadership of the 4th generation of the Vietti family, the brand has grown today to be universally recognized among the best Italian labels with the core values of commitment, vision, culture, and enthusiasm. Vietti's road to quality combines respect for tradition and careful experimentation, where man and earth have always been able to dialogue.

Today, Vietti is owned by the Krause family, who purchased the winery in 2016 and expanded the estate with new and renowned Crus in the denomination of both Barolo and Barbaresco. While the Vietti family is no longer involved in this project as both Luca and Elena left in 2023, the Krause family is committed to safeguarding the identity and values that have characterized the Vietti brand since its origins. Their values are based on, among other things, territory, craftsmanship, quality research, human capital, and sustainability. The place where the vision of wine and the vineyard is an expression of the intelligence of the hands, and that preserving the craftsmanship is essential to wine and its production. The Vietti manifesto is to always improve, respect nature's own pace, take care of tradition and of those that help safeguard it, and cultivate sustainability. The aim is to obtain identity-based wines capable of withstanding the test of time.

Like the 2020 Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo I enjoyed in 2024, this red wine is crafted with 100% Nebbiolo that was grown in selected vineyard sites, mostly situated in the areas of Barolo and Barbaresco. After harvesting, the grapes were brought to the winery and underwent alcoholic fermentation for about 3–4 weeks at a controlled temperature between 28°C–32°C, followed by malolactic fermentation in steel tanks and/or barriques. Each parcel was vinified and aged separately until the lots that will be used for Langhe Nebbiolo and those that will continue to age for Barolo, are selected. The parcels for Langhe Nebbiolo were aged for about 18–20 months in barriques and large barrels, then blended in steel prior to bottling. This wine is considered to be a "second Barolo", and the name "Perbacco" comes from the Italian exclamation "Per Bacco!", which translates roughly to "By Bacchus", the Roman god of wine. Perbacco symbolizes wine, pleasure, and celebration.

The 2022 growing season is noted for being the driest and among the hottest in Piedmont's history. The region was already lacking water and barely received any precipitation between December 2021 and the beginning of May 2022. The arid conditions persisted through summer, which resulted in small vines producing small clusters. Vital in this vintage were soil and canopy management in order to preserve any moisture and protect the grapes from sunburn. From a vintage with slightly reduced yields and, given the climatic conditions, surprising balance and acidity, let's see how this 2022 Langhe Nebbiolo is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

VIETTI PERBACCO NEBBIOLO 2022 - Vegan, DOC Langhe, Piedmont, Italy (#15087) (XD) - $42.95
100% Nebbiolo. The medium+ to medium-high intensity nose takes some coaxing to reveal pretty and gently perfumed aromas of rose floral, red cherry, and sweet spices with hints of orange peel and leafy herb. The dry, medium-full bodied palate is quite firmly structured with lovely red cherry, rose floral, sweet spice, cinnamon, and savoury earth flavours with leafy herb accents. Acids are fresh, juicy, and succulent, while the structured tannins have some youthful grip. Subtle spice notes on the mid-palate, while savoury earth notes take over on the finish, with excellent length. Enjoyable now with protein, but I would tuck this away for 3-4 years and enjoy to the early-mid-2030s. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Small quantities of other fine wines by Vietti are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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January 10, 2026 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: Smart Buys

Happy New Year! Here are my top wine picks from the January 10, 2026 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection (digital edition here). As the first release of the year, this is the annual Smart Buys release, which tends to be smaller and cheaper when compared to the releases we saw over the last 2–3 months. The mini-thematic takes a quick look at Portugal. In all, there are 86 products offered in this release, including a few that are Online & Flagship Exclusives (OFE), with 50 products priced below $20. All the wines should be readily available for purchase across Ontario.

We'll begin with the annual Smart Buys feature, which has twenty-five wines listed and seven of which are included among my top wine picks from this release. Within the Smart Buys feature, the lone white wine recommendation is a medium sweet Riesling from Niagara. Staying on the local front, there's also a Merlot and a $25 Pinot Noir, both from Niagara. Smart Buy blends include the Côtes du Rhône, which is composed of 60% Grenache Noir and 40% Syrah, the Portuguese red from Alentejo that is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet, and Syrah, and the Riserva Chianti Classico, which is 90% Sangiovese and the balance other permitted varieties. The last Smart Buy is a Cabernet Sauvignon from Coonawarra, Australia.

My top red wine recommendations from the main release begins in the Southern Rhône Valley with a Châteauneuf-du-Pape that is composed of mainly Grenache with Syrah and Mourvèdre in support, followed closely by the 2024 Vacqueyras, which is a blend of 50% Grenache, 25% Syrah, and 25% Mourvèdre. The 2022 Vacqueyras is composed of equal parts Grenache and Syrah. Next up is Italy for a lovely red from Sicily that is a 70/30 blend of Nero d'Avola and Syrah, followed by the wine from Abruzzo that is crafted using Montepulciano. There are two other blends - the Rioja from Spain, which is made using a blend of Tempranillo and Garnacha., and the Douro red, which is composed of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca with Sousão and Tinta Amarela in support. Other red wines include a lovely Pinot Noir by Tawse, and a Malbec from Argentina.

All my top white wine picks from the main release are mono-varietal wines, with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc wines dominating the list. There are four Sauvignon Blanc wines, with a trio from Marlborough and one from Niagara. Of Chardonnay, there are a pair from Burgundy, one from Prince Edward County, and one from Niagara. Other white wines include the Torrontés from Argentina, the Grasevina from Croatia, and the Chenin Blanc from the Loire. For sweet wine lovers, look to either the excellent Vidal Icewine or the Riesling Icewine - both of these delectably sweet wines are from Niagara.

Enjoy my top wine recommendations from this release! Cheers!

Red Wine:

• LAVAU CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2024 - AOC, France (#18783) (XD) - $14.95
• RAVASQUEIRA LAGAR RED BLEND 2022 - Vinho Regional Alentejo, Portugal (#45093) (XD) - $14.95  88+ pts  wine review
• PIETRAME EDIZIONE LIMITATA MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO 2022 - DOP, Italy (#32534) (XD) - $15.95  90 pts  wine review
• HOLLICK THE BARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021 - Coonawarra, South Australia (#18525) (XD) - $16.95  88+ pts  wine review
• CABRAL SELEÇÃO 2022 - DOC Douro, Portugal (#28606) (XD) - $16.95  90 pts  wine review

• CUSUMANO PRESTI E PEGNI BENUARA SYRAH/ NERO D'AVOLA 2022 - DOC Sicilia, Italy (#597138) (XD) - $17.95  91 pts  wine review
• MARQUÉS DE LA CONCORDIA LAGUNILLA RESERVA 2018 - DOCa Rioja, Spain (#44774) (XD) - $18.95  review coming soon...
• FEATHERSTONE RED TAIL MERLOT 2023 - Sustainable, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#131540) (XD) - $19.95  review coming soon...
• EL ESTECO MALBEC 2023 - Valle de Cafayate, Salta, Argentina (#113191) (XD) - $19.95
• THE ORGANIZED CRIME BREAK-IN PINOT NOIR 2022 - VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#396267) (XD) - $24.95

• CECCHI RISERVA DI FAMIGLIA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2020 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#14200) (XD) - $24.95
• DOMAINE SAINT ROCH PROJET F VACQUEYRAS 2022 - AOC, Rhône, France (#47577) (XD) - $28.95  91 pts  wine review
• DOMAINE FONT SARADE LES HAUTS DE LA PONCHE VACQUEYRAS 2024 - AOP, Rhône, France (#42394) (XD) - $31.95  OFE
• TAWSE QUARRY ROAD PINOT NOIR 2023 - VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#307686) (XD) - $35.95
• BROTTE LES HAUTS DE BARVILLE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2022 - AOC, Rhône, France (#35974) (XD) - $49.95

White Wine:

• EL ESTECO BLEND DE EXTREMOS TORRONTÉS 2024 - Valle de Cafayate, Argentina (#46399) (XD) - $18.95
• LE GARENNE CHENIN BLANC 2024 - AOP Saumur, Loire, France (#47327) (XD) - $18.95  review coming soon...
• RAPAURA SPRINGS CLASSIC SAUVIGNON BLANC 2024 - Sustainable, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#465880) (XD) - $19.95
• KUTJEVO GRASEVINA 2024 - Danube-Kutjevo Vineyard, Slavonia, Croatia (#519074) (XD) - $19.95
• MEGALOMANIAC NARCISSIST RIESLING 2024 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#67587) (M) - $19.95
• PROSPER MAUFOUX MÂCON-VILLAGES 2023 - AOC, Burgundy, France (#18709) (XD) - $20.95

• SPY VALLEY E BLOCK SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 - Vegan, Sustainable, Waihopai Valley, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#36874) (XD) - $21.95  review coming soon...
• RAVINE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 - VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (#48905) (XD) - $22.95
• VILLA MARIA SOUTHERN CLAYS RESERVE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2024 - Sustainable, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#47831) (XD) - $24.95
• BACHELDER L'ARDOISE NIAGARA CHARDONNAY 2023 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#302083) (XD) - $25.95  90 pts  wine review
• CLOSERIE DES ALISIERS PETIT CHABLIS 2023 - AOC, Burgundy, France (#557769) (XD) - $29.95
• VOLTA AMPHORA RAMIREZ VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2023 - VQA Prince Edward County, Ontario, Canada (#48951) (XD) - $29.95

Dessert Wine:

• TAWSE RIESLING ICEWINE 2023 - VQA Creek Shores, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#44186, 200 mL) (S) - $36.95
• INNISKILLIN NIAGARA ESTATE GOLD VIDAL ICEWINE 2023 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#19083, 375 mL) (S) - $99.95  93 pts  wine review

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Estate Papaioannou Saint George Agiorgitiko 2019 (Greece) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely organic and vegan-friendly Agiorgitiko from Nemea in Greece. It arrived at the LCBO in last month's December 6th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Estate Papaioannou, a small, family-owned Greek winery situated in Ancient Nemea, within the Peloponnese wine region of southern Greece. While the Papaioannou family has deep viticultural roots in Nemea going back to the 19th century, the modern estate winery was established in the 1950s by Thanasis Papaioannou.

Mr. Papaioannou was one of the first wine producers who understood and promoted the idea that wine must maintain its unique characteristics - the grape variety, the vineyard's location, as well as the work in the vineyard, while ensuring biological balance. The family has about 60 hectares of private vineyards located in various vineyard plots within Nemea, and are planted to both Greek and international varieties. All the family's vineyards are 100% organically cultivated, with the aim of achieving ultimate harmony with the ecosystem. Thanasis Papaioannou passed away in 2019 at the age of 92.

George Papaioannou, son of Thanasis, carries on his father's tradition. As a chemist-oenologist, George is creatively active in his own vineyards, as well as in the modern winery of Ancient Nemea. The goal is for the continuous improvement of the wines produced, maintain the highest standards of hygiene and organic characteristics, as well as experiment with new types of wines. With vineyards situated in different areas of Nemea, which are characterized by differences in the ecosystem and age of the vines, the result is wines of multi-dynamism. The quality of the wine is further enhanced by the correct selection of a satisfactory number of varieties, along with the profound knowledge of its pioneers about everything related to the vineyard and its cultivation. With a commitment to sustainable practices, Estate Papaioannou has been farming organically since 2004. Papaioannou Winery is certified by the state-controlled DIO, and more recently achieved USDA NOP organic certification.

This red wine is crafted with 100% Agiorgitiko, a native Greek grape varietal which also often goes by the name St. George. The grapes for this wine were grown in their 60 hectare estate vineyard in Nemea, at 350 metres above sea level. The vines are 35-years-old and planted on clay soil with gravels, and trained using the Royat double cordon system. It was vinified by undergoing a cool temperature fermentation using indigenous yeasts, with 2 weeks of maceration time. The wine was matured for 12 months in 300 L American and French oak barrels, 50% new and 50% 1-year-old, followed by 6 months of bottle ageing.

The 2019 vintage in Greece is considered to be one of the best in the last 20+ years with consistent, evenly distributed rainfall, and without extreme periods of heat, which resulted in a high-acid vintage. In Nemea, low temperatures during winter and spring, combined with continuous rainfall, resulted in late maturation during all stages of ripening. The summer months and September experienced heat and drought conditions, which ensured good hygiene for most grape varieties. With normal yields and excellent grape health, the resulting wines are characterized by high acidity, which gives aromatic wines good varietal expression. From a very good vintage with high expectations, let's see how this 2019 Agiorgitiko from Nemea, Greece, is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ESTATE PAPAIOANNOU SAINT GEORGE AGIORGITIKO 2019 - Vegan, PDO Nemea, Greece (#27217) (XD) - $29.95
This organic Agiorgitiko is fragrant and open, with a medium-high intensity nose offering a lovely, complex mix of dark fruited spices revealing layers of black cherry, blackberry, sandalwood, and savoury earth aromas nuanced with touches of rose floral, dried cherry, and barnyard. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it has oak spice, dark berry, black cherry, black plum, peppery spice, and smoky mineral flavours. It is well-structured with crisp and juicy acidity, as well as refined, gritty tannins. Touches of intriguing menthol notes on the back palate, while waves of black cherry, pepper, and oak spice notes lead to smoky minerals with excellent length on the crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

One other wine by Papaioannou is available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Bottega Il Vino dei Poeti Brut Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore 2024 (Veneto) - Wine Review

Tonight's sparkling wine review is a delicious, premium Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG that made its debut at the LCBO last month. It was included as part of the feature on Finest Festive Wines in the December 6 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Bottega SpA, a family-owned winery and distillery with deep roots in the Veneto wine region of northeastern Italy. Their story begins in 1635 when their forefather, Andrea, cultivated vines in the hills near Molinetto della Croda in Refrontolo, a comune in the Province of Treviso. The family were tenant farmers for the Counts of Collalto until they gained their freedom, after which they started to farm their own lands.

The more recent history of the family begins in the 1920s with Domingo Bottega, a wine trader and passionate oenologist who was able to easily identify the best grapes in the vineyard. In the 1950s and 1960s, Aldo Bottega, son of Domingo, expanded on his father's passion for the vine and established a distillery. In 1977, Bottega SpA was founded by Aldo and his wife, Rosina, in Pianzano di Godega, within the Province of Treviso, the heartland and historical home of Prosecco.

Today, Bottega is run by the children of Aldo and Rosina - siblings Sandro, Barbara, and Stefano. Sandro became the company director in 1983. In 1992, they added a winery to the distillery and began producing Prosecco Spumante. In 2007, the company moved its premises to a big 18th century farmhouse situated in Bibano di Godega di Sant'Urbano, 50 km from Venice, near Conegliano Veneto, among 10 hectares of vineyards. This farmhouse was renovated according to state-of-the-art environmental standards, while also keeping its original architectural features.

The mission and values at Bottega are based on quality and typicality, design and innovation, and sustainability. As a major international exporter, Bottega's products are available in over 150 countries worldwide. Bottega is particularly known for their portfolio of Prosecco sparkling wines, many of which come in distinctive packaging that are immediately recognizable as Bottega.

In the pyramid of Prosecco quality, this sparkling wine is part of the upper, higher-quality pyramid of Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco. The story of this DOCG begins in the hilly area of Conegliano Valdobbiadene, in northeast Italy, about 50 km from Venice and 100 km from the Dolomites. Locals have grown grapes to produce Prosecco Superiore in this area for over three centuries, with success arriving in 1876 after the founding of Italy's first School of Oenology. The production area of Conegliano Valdobbiadene covers 15 communes and represents the heart of the world of Prosecco. Italy first recognized this historic denomination in 1969, and in 2009 it was elevated it to a Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin (DOCG), the highest level of quality for Italian wines.

This vintage Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore is crafted with 100% Glera that was grown in the hilly area close to the Venetian Prealps. This area has a temperate climate with mild winters and fresh summers, while also offering a wide diurnal temperature range which stimulates the aromatic compounds in the grapes, resulting in finer and more intense aromas. This area also has a diversity of soils, sun exposure, and slopes, which helps craft complex Prosecco wines.

To craft this wine, the grapes were hand-harvested at various times according to their ripeness at the end of September. Only ripe, healthy, and suitable grapes were selected, and then softly pressed to protect grape integrity. The must was stored at low temperatures in steel tanks, followed by first fermentation using selected yeasts. In accordance with the Martinotti (aka Charmat) method, the second fermentation took place in cuve close (sealed tank) at a controlled temperature of
15°C in order to preserve the primary aromas of the grapes. The wine was left in contact with its lees to enhance the body, structure, and aroma of the wine, while also balancing sugar residues. It was then cold-stabilized, filtered, and finally bottled. The wine rests for a few days in bottle to restore its natural balance prior to release.

In 2024, the growing season in Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG was unstable with many challenges. Spring was unusually cold and rainy with near-record rainfall from April to mid-June. These weather conditions significantly delayed vegetative development until early July, which resulted in uneven fruit set, loose clusters, and irregular berries. However, improved conditions leading up to and during harvest allowed growers to bring in a generally healthy crop, albeit with slightly reduced yields. From a promising vintage, let's see how this 2024 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BOTTEGA IL VINO DEI POETI BRUT VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO SUPERIORE 2024 - Sustainable, DOCG, Veneto, Italy (#46058) (D) - $29.95
100% Glera. Clean, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose of peach, nectarine, yellow citrus, white floral, and acacia aromas with hints of orange peel and leesy mineral. On the mid-weighted palate it has delicious peach, nectarine, white floral, acacia, and yellow citrus flavours with pleasing touches of savoury bitterness and leesy notes, plus a pinch of balancing sugar in a mostly dry flavour profile. It has clean and fresh acidity, along with refined bubbles. It's nicely balanced throughout with citrus and leesy notes on the lengthy, lip-smacking finish. Enjoy this recommended buy over the next 1-2 years. Score: 89 pts

Many other lovely wines by Bottega SpA are available at the LCBO, as well as through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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La Chevalière Rasteau 2023 (Rhône) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Grenache-based blend from the Côtes du Rhône Cru of Rasteau that arrived at the LCBO in last month's December 6th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

La Chevalière is a label produced by Les Grandes Serres, a well-regarded winery located in the Southern Rhône Valley. Founded in 1977, Les Grandes Serres is known for its expertise with the classic Rhône varietals of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, and producing high-quality wines from the Southern Rhône's most prestigious appellations. The name "Grandes Serres" translates to "large greenhouses", which once existed on the property.

Today, Les Grandes Serres is dedicated to expressing the diversity and unique terroirs of the Southern Rhône Valley. They emphasize sustainable viticulture and have deep respect for the environment. Mainly a négociant firm, Les Grandes Serres sources most of their grapes from contract growers.

The grapes for this red wine come from the village of Rasteau, an appellation by the same name which also became a Cru in 2020. Rasteau is situated in the Southern Rhône Valley, in the north of Vaucluse, and features a diversity of terroirs and a Mediterranean climate. The soil in Rasteau includes red marl and sandstone, clay and limestone soils, and is covered with worn pebbles on the surface. The pebbles accumulate heat throughout the day, and at night they release all that heat, which in turn cools down the vines. Rasteau is an ideal environment for wines to fully express their structured, generous, and powerful nature.

This lovely cuvée is a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre, and 5% Carignan. When compared with the excellent 2022 La Chevalière Rasteau that I enjoyed in 2024, the 2023 has 10% more Syrah, while the amount of Mourvèdre and Carignan went down. To vinify this wine, the grapes were destemmed, gently crushed, and placed into temperature-controlled vats, followed by a three-week maceration with regular pumping-over and délestage (rack and return). After ageing, the different terroirs (and grapes) were blended together in order to achieve optimum balance, which highlights the characteristics of Rasteau.

In 2023, the growing season in the Southern Rhône began with a dry start and a relatively late bud burst. Welcoming late-spring rains arrived in May and June, and were followed by a warm and arid summer, with the fierce heat remaining until the end of August. This was a vintage that suited clay soils, rather than sandy soils, and while the weather conditions did present some challenges, the resulting wines from Rasteau excelled and showed detailed terroir expression. Let's see how this 2023 Rasteau is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LA CHEVALIÈRE RASTEAU 2023 - AOP, Rhône, France (#18502) (XD) - $23.95
This blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre, and 5% Carignan has a lovely, perfumed, medium-high intensity nose of dark red berry, garrigue, stones, peppery spice, blackberry, earthy mineral, with a touches of olive, leafy dried herbs, and meaty characters in a complex profile. The medium+ bodied palate is dry, ripe, and slightly warming with delicious black raspberry, peppery spice, garrigue, stones, and savoury, earthy mineral flavours. It's supported by crisp and juicy acidity, while the ripe and supple tannins are smooth and well-structured. Savoury and stony on the long, crisp finish. Best enjoyed at cooler temperatures and a highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other lovely wines by the producers of La Chevalière can be ordered through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.

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Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo 2022 (Tuscany) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent and organic Super Tuscan that is predominantly Sangiovese that arrived at the LCBO as the Wine of the Month in the November 22nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, with plenty of bottles surprisingly still available for purchase!

It is produced by Tenuta Sette Ponti, a highly-regarded, family-owned winery situated in Tuscany, between the cities of Florence and Arezzo, Italy. The history of the property begins in 1935, when Prince Amedeo of Savoy-Aosta planted the first vineyards on the property to celebrate having taken over the Ethiopian Empire. It was called "Vigna dell'Impero", or Vineyard of the Empire, and is home to an ancient clone of Sangiovese that is the only one of its kind.

In the 1950s, architect Alberto Moretti Cuseri acquired the first 55 hectares of land directly from Princesses Margherita and Maria Cristina of Savoy-Aosta, daughters of Prince Amedeo of Savoy-Aosta, and dedicated himself to the production of winegrowing and olive oil. The grapes were sold to producers until the 1990s, when Antonio Moretti Cuseri, son of Alberto, who had a passion for wine since he was a young boy, took over the family business in 1997.

Antonio worked alongside the best viticulturists and oenologists to evaluate the suitability of the land for the production of quality wines, although the area was already declared one of the most suitable areas for wine production in Tuscany in 1716 by Cosimo III de' Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany. By 1998, Antonio stopped selling his grapes to other producers and established Tenuta Sette Ponti, or Seven Bridges, in tribute to the seven bridges that extend over the Arno River on the road from Florence to Arezzo. That same year, he made his first wine - Crognolo.

In 2018, the third generation of the Moretti Cuseri family, Amedeo, son of Antonio, joined the family business to continue to represent the company's strong values and bring a fresh and new vision. The philosophy at Tenuta Sette Ponti is based on quality, research, long-lasting knowledge, age-old customs, respect for the land and its balance, while also keeping pace with modern agricultural and oenological practices. Tenuta Sette Ponti has an incredible love for vines and is known for making exceedingly high quality, organic wines in line with Tuscan traditions.

The Crognolo is named after a wild plant Cornelian cherry (Cornus mas) that grows in abundance on the estate. This red wine was first made in 1998 and strongly represents the vision of its creator, with an eye to the valorization of the territory and to innovation achieved through traditions that evolve. The base of this wine is Sangiovese from clones from the oldest and historically significant Vigna dell'Impero vineyard. This historic varietal clone was grafted in vineyards with stony soils rich in marl. The majority of the Sangiovese used to craft Crognolo is made up of only the best Sangiovese grapes from these vines.

Similarly to the 2018 Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo I enjoyed a few years ago, this red wine is predominantly Sangiovese (95%) with a splash of Merlot completing the blend. The southern-facing vineyard is planted at 250 metres above sea level. The vines are 30+ years old and trained using the spurred cordon system. After undergoing maceration and alcoholic fermentation at a controlled temperature, followed by malolactic fermentation, the wine was aged for 12–14 months in French oak barriques. It was then matured for 6 months in bottle prior to release.

While the 2022 growing season in Tuscany began with a cool and unusually dry winter, which transitioned into a warm spring, the vintage was marked by the scorching hot summer and extreme drought. The conditions in summer were so dry that some producers chose to irrigate to help protect their younger vines. However, vineyards situated near forests or up hills were able to keep cool, with welcoming rain finally arriving at the end of July. Further rainfall at the end of August to the beginning of September proved to be the vintage's saving grace. Although the drought conditions unsurprisingly reduced yields, the fruit that did make it through was exceptionally concentrated and mostly of high quality. From a good vintage with slightly higher-than-usual alcohol levels, let's see how this 2022 Super Tuscan is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TENUTA SETTE PONTI CROGNOLO 2022 - IGT Toscana, Italy (#727636) (XD) - $34.95
This organic red wine is a blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot. A touch reductive off the top, followed by a medium-high intensity nose of ripe red cherry aromas mingling with clove, savoury oak, and earthy minerals, plus hints of sweet spices. The dry, medium-full bodied palate has lovely red & black cherry, clove, oak spice, sweet spice, and earthy mineral replays in a nicely balanced flavour profile. Acids are crisp and juicy, while the medium-firm tannins are well-structured with a slightly chalky textured mouthfeel. Touch spicy with the alcohol peeking through ever so slightly on the mid-palate, while the exceptionally long finish is dry, savoury, and minerally. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 5-6 years. Score: 91+ pts

Tenuta Sette Ponti's iconic Oreno is available in small quantities at the LCBO, while the full range of wines from this producer can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Boutari Naoussa Red 2022 (Greece) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Xinomavro (ksee-NOH-mah-vroh) from Naoussa in northern Greece. A perennial favourite, this latest vintage arrived at the LCBO in the November 22 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, with plenty of bottles still available for purchase across Ontario.

It is produced by one of Greece's most historic and influential wineries - Boutari. It was established by Ioannis Boutaris with a winery bearing his name in 1879 in Naoussa, Macedonia in northern Greece. By 1906, Mr. Boutaris built the city's first privately-owned winery and retail cellar, while also launching the production of the first Greek red wine that was bottled under the now-renowned "Naoussa Boutari" label.

In the mid-1930s, Stelios Boutaris, son of Ioannis, took over the reins of the family winery and began exporting their wines to export markets, while also opening a second winery in Naoussa. In 1968, Giannis and Konstantinos Boutaris, the two sons of Stelios took over the winery and propelled it to new heights and shaped it into what it is today, including a shift to focus on viticulture. In 1978, Boutari inaugurated their new, state-of-the-art winery in Stenimachos, Naoussa, which remains the centre of their production, ageing, and bottling processes to this day. Boutari's success culminated with the Naoussa Boutari label making Wine Spectator's Top 100 of 2013 list.

In 2022, Boutari Wineries turned a new chapter when it became a member of Sterner Stenhus Greece group. While Boutari is now under new ownership, the vision for the winery is to respect the historic name that is synonymous with Greek wine, while also promising to continue the long-standing tradition of Boutari wineries and develop them further.

The wineries of Boutari are located in Greece's most important wine-producing regions, which allows the producer to explore the potential and specificities of each region and to highlight both the region itself and its varieties. Arguably, Naoussa is the most important Greek wine region and Boutari's headquarters are in Naoussa, a region of Macedonia on the eastern edge of Vermio. Boutari's journey began in Naoussa, and with it, Greek wine was introduced to the world. As a key player in Greek winemaking and one of the country's most historic wineries, viticulture in the Naoussa of northern Greece is deeply rooted in their past. Boutari was instrumental in the preservation of the indigenous Xinomavro grape, as well as the promotion and recognition of the variety and the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) zone of Naoussa. All of this was achieved by producing excellent and historically significant wines.

Boutari has also taken steps to introduce sustainability practices by optimizing the vineyard and wine processes in order to produce wines of endearing taste, identity, and character. In their vineyards, Boutari applies organic farming principles, while respecting their environmental footprint. Moreover, they treat the vine as part of the ecosystem and focus on strengthening its natural defences and resilience.

First bottled at the beginning of the 20th century, this red wine is the most emblematic wine of modern Greek wine history. This wine is also one of the first Greek red bottled PDO wines and constitutes a landmark for red wines in Greece. Like the previous vintage - the lovely 2021 Boutari Naoussa Xinomavro that I enjoyed last year - this red wine is also crafted with 100% Xinomavro, although it doesn't mention this anywhere on the front label and is stated in quite small letters on the back label. To vinify this wine, the grapes were cold-macerated for 24 hours, with a small percentage bled off for rosé production. It underwent a controlled alcoholic fermentation with selected yeast strains at 20°C–27°C, with gentle extraction with few pumpovers, and was followed by malolactic fermentation. It was aged for 12 months in 5th- and 6th-use French oak barrels, and filtered using sheet filtration prior to bottling.

The growing season in Naoussa in 2022 began intensely cold, with intervals of rain, which resulted in increased bud fertility and the ensuing increase in yields. March and April were colder and wetter than average, with a later bud break, while temperatures returned to typical by early May. The summer ripening season was mostly mild, except for a heatwave in the first half of August, while September began with notable rainfall, along with typically high temperatures during the day and low temperatures at night. From a vintage that produced very good to excellent results, let's see how this 2022 Xinomavro from Naoussa, Greece, is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BOUTARI NAOUSSA RED 2022 - PDO Naoussa, Macedonia, Greece (#23218) (XD) - $19.95
This 100% Xinomavro has a medium+ intensity nose that seems a bit shy initially, offering an enticing mix of sun-dried tomato, rose petals, spice, ripe red cherry, and savoury earth aromas accented with leafy herbs. The medium+ bodied palate is well-structured with ripe tannins and fresh acidity supporting the red cherry, rose floral, sun-dried tomato, and leafy herb flavours in a nicely balanced profile. More savoury with earth, cedary oak, and spice notes on the mid-palate, alongside a crisp mouthfeel and gently chalky textured tannins. Sun-dried tomato, cherry, and rose florals taper to earthy notes on the long, savoury, and mineral-tinged finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

A few wines by Boutari are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Torbreck Woodcutter's Semillon 2024 (Barossa) - Wine Review

Happy New Year! To start off 2026, tonight's white wine review is an excellent Semillon from the Barossa Valley in Australia. It arrived at the LCBO - along with its companion Shiraz - late last year in the November 22nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, and both are readily available for purchase today.

It is produced by Torbreck Vintners, a wine producer that was established in the Barossa Valley by David Powell in 1994. The winery is named after a forest in Scotland where David worked as a lumberjack. Mr. Powell gained his winemaking experience at various Barossa wineries and was inspired to create his own label. He began to share-farm vineyards in order to obtain fruit from some of the Barossa Valley's very best vineyards. Torbreck takes its inspiration from France's Rhône Valley, while championing the rich viticultural heritage of the Barossa.

In 2008, Pete and Terri Kight entered into a partnership with Torbreck and eventually took over the business in 2013. Today, proprietors Pete and Terri are dedicated to establishing Torbreck among the world's leading wine producers. They remain focused on this journey by staying true to their core vision, rather than following trends or fashions. With provenance at its heart, the Barossa and its Mediterranean climate and 175 years of winemaking heritage provide an extraordinary foundation for Torbreck wines. While they have achieved much over the first three decades, their journey is far from complete as they continue to look forward.

Torbreck sources fruit from some of the finest vineyards in the Barossa, and they constantly seek to understand the difference between all of these special places. Moreover, they seek to understand how the fruit reacts to the seasons and how this combination of soil and climate and farming experience is reflected in unique grape flavours. This requires patience, as well as a gentle hand in the winemaking process. Torbreck respects the vineyard and the wine, as they are simply custodians. Led by General Manager and Chief Winemaker Ian Hongell, the team of experienced winemakers and viticulturists bring a deep understanding of the region's terroir and expertise to ensure that every bottle of wine reflects the artistry, intensity, and elegance for which Torbreck is renowned.

Semillon has always found a natural home in the Barossa, going back to when it was first planted by settlers around 160 years ago. It has succeeded in this area due to the Mediterranean climate and careful farming, to create a heritage of old, low-yielding Semillon vineyards. The Semillon for this wine is exclusively the age-old, robust, and pink-skinned Madeira clone, which is found mainly in the Barossa.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Semillon that was grown in the sub-regions of Rowland Flat, Ebenezer, and Lyndoch, within the Barossa Valley. The grapes were harvested throughout the month of February and traditionally vinified. The wine was matured for 3 months, with 60% in stainless steel tank and the remainder in seasoned French barrique. The resulting wine is reminiscent of the savoury white wines found in the central and southern regions of France.

The 2024 vintage in Barossa saw timely spring rainfall and calm conditions for flowering and fruit set. An idyllic summer featured mild to warm temperatures, which propelled even growth and fruit development. While yields were variable and below average, the quality is exceptional across the board. Let's see how this 2024 Semillon from the Barossa Valley is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TORBRECK WOODCUTTER'S SEMILLON 2024 - Barossa Valley, South Australia (#927541) (XD) - $29.95
Screw cap enclosure. The restrained, medium+ intensity nose delivers attractive lemon citrus, white floral, and garden herb aromas accented with leesy minerals and a touch of spice. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate it is well-structured and ripe with lovely lemon citrus, grapefruit, white floral flavours joined by straw, paraffin, waxy, earthy mineral, and spice accents adding complexity. It has clean, crisp, and refreshing acidity, while the well-structured mid-palate is crisp with a slightly chalky textured mouthfeel. Spice and lemon citrus notes taper to savoury minerals on the crisp, and very long finish. Very youthful at this stage, this will gain further complexity and interest as it ages over the next dozen years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Quite a few wines by Torbreck are available on the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Cape Pastoral Organic Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot 2023 (South Africa) - Wine Review

For my final wine review of the year, tonight's red wine review is a delicious, organic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from South Africa that arrived at the LCBO in the November 22nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Cape Pastoral, a wine brand based in the Western Cape wine region of South Africa that is focused on crafting organic wines with minimal intervention.

The Western Cape is known for not only its rural beauty, including fauna and flora, but also its grape growers and winemakers, who are well-grounded as the primary preservers of the region's grape-growing soil. Cape Pastoral wines are the result of a harmonious relationship between the Western Cape's grape-growing soil, weather elements, and the natural response of the winemakers to transform the grapes into tasteful wines.

This ethos is reflected on the label of each Cape Pastoral wine. This wine has flowing shades of orange which represent the sun and its role as core source of earth’s energy, while the spots refer to the dispersal of seeds that happens naturally without human interference. The bee is an important pollinator of crops which are facing the threat of deforestation. Together, these visual elements tie into the pastoral style of creative works that idealize rural life and landscapes, while also alluding to the harmony that can exist when humans take a hands-off approach to nature.

Although I was not able to get the exact composition at the time of this post, this red wine is composed of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The grapes were grown and certified organically. After harvesting the grapes, they arrived at the cellar and were meticulously sorted by a sorting machine to ensure only the finest grapes were vinified. It was fermented using natural yeasts, and spent a considerable amount of time on its lees to create a creamy, textured mouthfeel. It also spent some time in oak to add spice characters and soften the tannins.

The growing season for the 2023 vintage in South Africa's winelands was generally dry and warm, with budbreak occurring slightly earlier than average. Conditions were optimal in spring and early summer, with abundant rains early in the season, just before veraison, which aided fruit quality. A cool and wet summer prolonged ripening, while unseasonal rains that arrived in March prolonged the harvest into April for many. This meant that picking decisions and careful vinification was required for late-ripening varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon. From a vintage that was cool and long with reduced yields, let's see how this 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from South Africa is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CAPE PASTORAL ORGANIC CABERNET SAUVIGNON / MERLOT 2023 - WO Western Cape, South Africa (#36978) (XD) - $13.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this organic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot has a lifted, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose of dark fruit and cedary oak spice aromas layered over currant, cassis, earth, and black plum, with hints of chocolate. The dry, medium-full bodied palate has pleasant dark berry, currant, cassis, and oak spice flavours joined by green herbs, savoury earth, and cocoa notes. Clean and well-made with crisp acidity, while the refined and textured tannins are gently grippy. Crisp and juicy with savoury earth, oak spice, and mocha chocolate notes on the lengthy finish. Pleasantly surprised and a recommended buy. Score: 88+ pts

There is only one other wine by Cape Pastoral and it can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Escarpment Noir Pinot Noir 2023 (New Zealand) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent Pinot Noir from Martinborough in New Zealand. It made its debut at the LCBO in last month's November 22 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Escarpment Winery, a wine producer that was founded in 1999 as a joint venture between Larry and Sue McKenna of Martinborough, and Robert and Mem Kirby of Australia. However, the driving force of Escarpment was Larry, who grew up near South Australia's McLaren Vale and had been a pioneer winemaker in Martinborough since 1986.

Escarpment is located on Te Muna Road, in Martinborough's famed alluvial gravel soils that were formed by the Huangarua River over 20,000 years ago. The winery is named after the long, steep slope that lies at the end of a plateau, which is their unique place within Martinborough. Their site also has ancient alluvial soils that run deep beneath the land, while big, open skies stretch across the Wairarapa. Escarpment Winery's purpose is to translate the natural balance that exists here into wines that reflect these special attributes, this special part of Aotearoa, New Zealand.

Today, Escarpment Winery is one of New Zealand's most respected cool-climate wine producers. In 2019, Escarpment was acquired by Torbreck Vintners of Barossa Valley, South Australia. In 2022, Larry retired and left his legacy in the capable hands of Viticulturist, Rowan Hoskins and Winemaker, Tim Bourne.

The vision at Escarpment is to continue to produce wines that capture a unique sense of place. Situated in their unique place on Te Muna Road, their home vineyard has 24 hectares of distinctive alluvial gravel and terraced land that stretches out along the banks of the Huangarua River. The alluvial loam soil in this vineyard has very deep alluvial gravels layered over loam, a composition which ensures exceptional drainage and is one of the key prerequisites for nurturing and producing premium quality, healthy grape vines. Escarpment sources fruit for their wines from one of their four vineyards, as well as from growers around the Martinborough township with whom they have long-term relationships with.

Escarpment Winery has several lines of wines in its portfolio and is particularly known for its single vineyard expressions of Pinot Noir. This particular Pinot Noir is from their "Varietal Pinot" line, which is their commitment to the future expansion of their key varieties. Furthermore, the Varietal Pinot line is about exploring boundaries, a key philosophy that is exhibited in their winemaking approach.

This red wine is crafted with 100% Pinot Noir that was grown in the North Island district of Martinborough. Part of Escarpment Winery's ethos is to explore boundaries to create wines of interest and complexity. This wine brings together over three decades of winemaking experience to craft a Pinot Noir using traditional techniques from fruit grown on the Martinborough terrace. Upon arriving at the winery, the harvested grapes were destemmed into open-top vessels and fermented using indigenous yeast. The average time in vat was 23 days, after which the wine was pressed off and aged in predominately older French barriques for about 10 months, with 16% new French oak. Each parcel was vinified and matured separately, with the resulting wine a blend of 36 individual parcels, and was bottled without fining.

The 2023 vintage in Martinborough was a difficult one due to sustained wet weather and cyclone activity. The wet and cool conditions began in autumn 2022 and persisted right through to autumn 2023, which made all vineyard activities extremely difficult and expensive as more passes through the vineyard were required because growth continued throughout the season and disease pressure was immense. Crops were constantly thinned, and low temperatures and high soil moisture levels meant ripening was slow and protracted. Pinot Noir was in good condition because the varietal is later to budburst and ripen, and was thus less advanced when Cyclone Gabrielle hit. From a trying vintage, let's see how this 2023 Pinot Noir from Martinborough is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ESCARPMENT NOIR PINOT NOIR 2023 - Martinborough, North Island, New Zealand (#41810) (XD) - $29.95
Enclosed by screw cap. The highly engaging nose has medium-high intensity aromas with an intriguing mix of rose floral, earthy beet root, black spices, dark cherry, cranberry, and savoury minerals, plus strawberry accents. On the dry, light-to-medium bodied palate it shows impressive structure and textured tannins. Lovely, complex, and ripe flavours of black cherry, cranberry, strawberry, beet root, spices, and savoury minerals. Touch creamy on the mid-palate, which gives way to a mildly grippy back palate. Acids are crisp and juicy. It's well-balanced throughout with dark red berry notes tapering to savoury spice, and earthy minerals on the crisp finish, with excellent length. Should improve further with a few years in the cellar and drink well for at least 5+ years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92+ pts

Other fine wines by Escarpment can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Maison Fontan Tattoo T&M Rouge 2022 (Southwest France) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious blend of Tannat and Merlot that is brand-new to the LCBO. It arrived both online and in-store as part of last month's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on November 22nd.

It is produced by Maison Fontan, an historic, family-owned wine estate located in the comune of Noulens, within the Gers department of southwestern France. The Fontan family's story begins when the first generation moved to Maubet Farm in Noulens in 1907.

The family farmed this land for 4 generations, eventually moving from polyculture farming to organized viticulture in the 1980s thanks to the passion and initiatives of Aline and Jean-Claude Fontan, the third generation of the family. Aline and Jean-Claude also played a pivotal role by helping instigate the development of Côtes de Gascogne wines.

In 2001, siblings Sylvain and Nadège Fontan, the son and daughter of Aline and Jean-Claude, took over the reins of the vineyard and continued to develop the estate. Sylvain is the winemaker and cellar master, and by enhancing the grapes he makes a range of Côtes de Gascogne wines and Armagnacs. Nadège handles marketing and sales, and ensures that their vineyard products are available at wine merchants and the best restaurants.

Formerly Domaine de Maubet, the estate was rebranded in 2021 as Maison Fontan. The house which their great-grandparents moved to is more than just a vineyard - it is a place where people live, come together and work, and where the natural world is listened to and respected. Nestled in the middle of vines, the traditional Gascon half-timbered building welcomes visitors with open arms and a warm embrace, and is a place where people feel good.

Today, Sylvain and Nadège continue down the pathway forged by their great-grandparents with immense pride and unfailing courage. The siblings also have passion and respect for their forebears and the natural environment that surrounds them. With the elegance of their vines heralding sophisticated wines and eau-de-vie, the entire team at Maison Fontan is also focused on conserving the ecosystem, taking great care, and innovating. Maison Fontan is the hallmark of a family identity with shared and continuously upheld values.

Maison Fontan has always practiced sustainable winegrowing, while common sense is de rigueur, and respect is inherent. The family also respects nature and the environment, and has the belief that if they nourish the soil to the right extent, and if they take care of it, it will give their vines the best grapes. The family also believes in being thorough and mindful during all the phases of production, from soil to glass, in order to make a safe, appealing, and carefully-controlled product of consistently high quality.

This red wine is from their "Les Tattoo" range of wines which are original, daring, and bold. The Tattoo wines combine local grape varietals with innovative winemaking methods to produce gourmet wines that may come as a surprise. This particular red wine is crafted using a blend of 50% Tannat and 50% Merlot which were grown on clay-limestone and highly-compacted sandy/silty soil. After harvesting the grapes, they were destalked and placed into vats for 5 days of maceration. The grapes were fermented between 25°C–30°C, depending on the vintage, with one pumpover and two rack and returns. The juice is run off before malolactic fermentation, and is judged and tasted daily before finally undergoing filtration and kept in vat until bottling.

In 2022, the growing season in the Southwest of France featured black frosts, violent hailstorms, and severe summer drought. In spite of these challenges, the result was a significantly small harvest but with excellent quality. Let's see how this 2022 Tannat & Merlot from Côtes de Gascogne is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

MAISON FONTAN TATTOO T&M ROUGE 2022 - IGP Côtes de Gascogne, Southwest, France (#43894) (D) - $18.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this 50/50 blend of Tannat and Merlot has a medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that is ripe and fruit forward with plummy, dark fruit, blackberry, cassis, black cherry, and currant aromas with hints of licorice. The medium-full bodied palate is dry-ish with plummy, black cherry, and cassis flavours with touches of spice and mineral adding a savoury component. It has fresh and juicy acidity, alongside supple, rounded, and mildly textured tannins. Comes off a little sweet, but finishes crisp and dry with black cherry, cassis, and a lingering minerality. The finish length is very good. Crafted in a crowd-pleasing style. Score: 88 pts

Other delicious wines by Maison Fontan can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Rémy Ferbras Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2023 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of this terrific Côtes du Rhône-Villages that arrived at the LCBO in last month's November 22 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

This red wine is produced by Rémy Ferbras at Grandes Serres. Rémy Ferbras is a wine brand anchored in the Southern Rhône Valley, in the heart of the prestigious Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation. It is owned by Maison Grandes Serres, which is in turn owned by Picard Vins & Spiritueux, and pays tribute to the winery's first cellar master - Rémy Ferbras.

As an emblematic character of the house, Rémy Ferbras was a fervent defender of the Rhône Valley terroir and its grape varieties. Rémy always aimed to express the full potential of the grapes and terroir from this renowned wine region, and contributed with his work and tenacity to expand the house and his notoriety. The Rémy Ferbras signature is synonymous with rigorous and precise selection, vinification, and ageing, values which remain with the brand. Furthermore, the wines of Rémy Ferbras are consistently rich, elegant, complex, and flavourful.

Like the 2022 Rémy Ferbras Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages I enjoyed last year, this red wine is crafted using the same 4 grapes that were grown in the Côtes du Rhône-Villages appellation of Plan de Dieu. The named village appellation of Plan de Dieu, or "God's Plain", is a vast, flat terrace covered in vines, and makes more wine than any other Named Village. The plain lies in the Southern Rhone Valley, between the Aygues and Ouvèze rivers, which feed into the Rhône River from the east. Over thousands of years, the rivers laid down a deep bed of pebbles and clay that is perfect for cultivating vines. The vineyards in Plan de Dieu bask in the sun and are cooled by the north wind. The homogeneous terroir of Plan de Dieu has a Mediterranean climate influenced by the Mistral wind, while the soil consists of clay, limestone, and sands. As a red wine appellation, the main grape is Grenache, with Syrah and Mourvèdre in supporting roles. Grenache loves this stony, arid plateau, which used to be covered with a vast garrigue forest.

In this particular vintage, this red wine is composed of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 5% Cinsault, and 5% Mourvèdre, from vines planted in mainly limestone chippings and brown clay. The grapes were picked at optimum harvest maturity. Each grape varietal was traditionally and separately vinified. After two weeks of maceration, the grapes underwent alcoholic fermentation between 26°C and 28°C, followed by malolactic fermentation, then blended and bottled.

The growing season in 2023 began with a dry start, and a relatively late bud burst. Late-spring rains in May and June were welcome, which preceded a warm and arid summer, with the fierce heat remaining until the end of August. It was a season that suited clay soils, rather than sandy soils. While the season did present some challenges, it is considered to be a very good vintage for red wines from the Southern Rhône. Let's see how this 2023 Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

RÉMY FERBRAS PLAN DE DIEU CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES 2023 - AOP, France (#538009) (XD) - $17.95
This blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 5% Cinsault, and 5% Mourvèdre has a deep, medium-high intensity nose that offers warming black raspberry, garrigue, black cherry, floral, and spice aromas accented with stony mineral and earth notes that gain prominence with time in the glass. The medium+ to medium-full bodied palate is dry and well-structured with delicious and complex black raspberry, black cherry, licorice, stony mineral, garrigue, earth, and spice flavours. It's supported by crisp and juicy acidity, alongside mouth-coating, grainy textured tannins. Shows good balance with savoury, stony mineral notes lingering on the long, crisp finish. Should drink well over next 5+ years and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Only one wine (all in one store) from Rémy Ferbras is available at the LCBO, while the full range of wines can be ordered through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.

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Umani Ronchi Podere Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2023 (Italy) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious, organic, and unoaked Montepulciano from Abruzzo that made its debut at the LCBO in last month's November 22nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Umani Ronchi, a leading wine producer that was founded by Gino Umani Ronchi within the comune of Cupramontana, in the heart of the Verdicchio Classico production zone of Marche. A few years later, he formed a partnership with the Bianchi family, with Roberto Bianchi and his son-in-law, Massimo Bernetti, eventually taking over the company in 1968. In 1990, Michele Bernetti, son of Massimo, joined the company as General Sales Manager.

In 2001, Umani Ronchi purchased 30 hectares of organic vineyards in Abruzzo, which signalled the beginning of a new venture. Today, the Bianchi-Bernetti families own and manage over 210 hectares of vineyards across Marche and Abruzzo, all of which are organically farmed and nestled between the hills and the sea along the Adriatic coast from Serra de' Conti in Marche in the north to Roseto degli Abruzzi in the south. Their philosophy is based on sustainability and green viticulture, with a strong ethical approach and deep respect for the environment and its biodiversity. Their guiding principles are manifested through precision viticulture, vineyard management, and the use of organic fertilizers. They also use low-impact packaging, lightweight glass bottles, and photovoltaic energy, which covers about half of the winery's annual needs. Umani Ronchi is deeply committed and recognized for its ecological and sustainable values.

This particular wine is from Umani Ronchi's Abruzzo range of wines, which are grown in a unique, alluvial soil whose top layer features sandy-clay loam that allows the vines through the gravel below, giving rise to wines of superb minerality. Moreover, the presence of the nearby Gran Sasso mountain and the winds off the Adriatic Sea allow for notable diurnal temperatures, which helps the grapes develop their aromatic qualities.

Crafted with 100% Montepulciano grapes, this red wine is named "Podere", or Farm. The grapes were obtained from vineyard farms predominantly located in the provinces of Chieti and Teramo. The vines were trained using the tendone system, which is the most widespread vine training system in Abruzzo and known for being fairly productive. When the tendone system is used with the correct balance, it can yield grapes of excellent quality. The grapes for this wine were hand-harvested from the end of September through the first ten days of October. Upon arriving at the winery, the grapes are macerated for up to 10 days in steel fermenting vats, followed by alcoholic and then malolactic fermentation. The wine was matured in steel for about 4 months, then rested for a short period in bottle prior to release.

The 2023 vintage in Abruzzo was marked by two important events - one positive and one negative. The positive is that wines from the 2023 vintage onward allow for the mention of subzones, along with stricter production rules, in order to achieve recognition and form a stronger bond between grape variety and territory. On the downside, the crop from the 2023 growing season was devastated by downy mildew. Being an organic wine producer, Umani Ronchi was able to fend off some of the fungus, which resulted in a production loss of 25% less than the historical average. After a challenging first part of the vintage, climatic conditions were ideal from August to October, which allowed the Montepulciano grapes to achieve optimal phenolic ripeness. While quantities were low, quality was generally excellent.

Umani Ronchi's version of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo wines are intended to be an interpretation of the vine which exalts the varietal characteristics and freshness, and combines these qualities with just the right amount of charm and softness to create a pleasant and drinkable wine that complements many different kinds of dishes. Let's see how this 2023 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

UMANI RONCHI PODERE MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO 2023 - DOC, Italy (#46567) (XD) - $17.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this organic and unoaked Montepulciano has an open, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that offers perfumed aromas of rustic wild berries, black cherry, currant, and dried herbal spice characters nuanced with touches of bramble, licorice, and floral notes. The ripe, medium+ bodied palate is dry with delicious black cherry, wild berry, currant, dried herbal spice, and licorice flavours framed by crisp and juicy acidity. The medium-firm, fine-grained tannins are well-structured. The black cherry notes taper to savoury, earthy, and mineral notes on the juicy, very long, and slightly tannic finish. Should continue to drink well over the next 3-4 years and is a recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Small quantities of other fine wines by Umani Ronchi are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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