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wine review is a lovely dry rosé from Argentina that is made with Syrah! It's a new arrival to the LCBO, landing on shelves across Ontario a couple of weeks ago as part of the LCBO VINTAGES Release.
Bodegas Salentein was founded in the 1990s with the goal of producing first-rate wines with a sense of place, while respecting nature and using the principles of sustainability to take part in the life of the area's community. They are located in the heart of Mendoza, with vineyards in the Uco Valley, where the sandy and loamy soils, and dry weather with very hot days and very cool nights help produce high quality grapes.
The magnificent bodega is located at an elevation of 1,200 meters (4,000 feet) with the nearby western horizon dominated by the snowy Andes mountains. The cross-shape of the bodega has four wings, and each is a little bodega with two levels - the first level is for fermentation and storage, while the second level is subterranean (9 metres / 29 feet underground) and used for barrel ageing. A gravity-flow system is used to gently move the wine through the vinification and ageing process. The underground cellar has the benefit of constant temperatures and humidity, allowing the wines to age in optimal conditions. The floor of the cellar was built using natural stones from the Cuyo region using yellow quartzite sandstone, green chlorite of schist variety, and red limonite sandstone, among others. If you are visiting Mendoza, you will certainly want to visit Bodegas Salentein!
This particular dry rosé was crafted with 100% clone 99 Syrah grapes planted in 1996 in the vineyards of the El Oasis estate in Los Arboles (Tunuyán county) at an altitude of 1,050 metres (3,400 feet) above sea-level. With a hot summer that was slightly warmer than average, combined with low rainfall, yields were down in 2020, but produced healthy grapes of exceptional quality. Let's see how this 2020 Syrah Rosé is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
SALENTEIN RESERVE ROSÉ 2020 - Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina (#19555) (XD) - $17.95 This lovely 100% Syrah was matured for 6 months on its fermentation lees. Screw cap. The fresh, medium+ intensity nose has pretty aromas of red berry, cherry, strawberry, and floral wrapped around stony mineral. The dry, mid-weighted palate is tangy, tart, and spicy, accented with citrus, red berry, strawberry, and mineral flavours that are supported by crisp, lemony acidity. Subtle chalky texture on the mid-palate. Tangy citrus with saline minerals lingering on the crisp finish, with very good length. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts
Other lovely wines by Bodegas Salentein are available at the LCBO, as well as through their Agent - Azureau Wines & Spirits.
The 2019 La Cadiérenne Cuvée Grande Tradition Bandol Rosé that I enjoyed last summer was one of my favourite rosés of the year. For wine review, I am delighted to try the new vintage of this lovely dry rosé from Bandol that arrived at the LCBO recently as part of the LCBO VINTAGES Release. It is pictured on the cover of the VINTAGES magazine, as well as featured in the theme about Mediterranean wines.
The co-operative Les Vignerons de La Cadiérenne was formed in 1929 by 37 winegrowers. Today, it is comprised of nearly 300 winegrowers who cultivate approximately 600 hectares of mostly hillside vines surrounding the villages, and is the largest and most important cellar in western Var. Members of the co-operative produce wines that respect nature and the environment. All of the fruit is manually harvested, and members stay in contact with their fruit until bottling. Not only does La Cadiérenne produce AOP Côtes de Provence and Pays du Var (Protected Geographical Indication) wines, but they are also the largest producer of AOP Bandol wines.
The previous vintage was nearly an equal split of Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Cinsault, led slightly by Mourvèdre, while this vintage is predominantly Grenache (50%), and the rest equal parts Cinsault and Mourvèdre, all grown on clay-limestone and marl soils. At the winery, the grapes were direct pressed and each grape variety was vinified separately, while fermentation was carried out at low temperatures in order to preserve the fruity aromas and colour. I very much enjoyed the 2019, let's see how the 2020 Bandol Rosé is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
LA CADIÉRENNE CUVÉE GRANDE TRADITION BANDOL ROSÉ 2020 - AC, Provence, France (#119453) (XD) - $24.95 Blend of 50% Grenache, 25% Cinsault, and 25% Mourvèdre. The fresh, medium-high to highly aromatic nose has pretty aromas of ripe peach, melon, floral, citrus, blood orange, and grapefruit with underlying herbal notes. It has fresh acidity and a fine, slightly chalky texture on the medium-full bodied, fleshy palate with spicy aroma replays. There's a tinge of honey on the dry flavour profile, tapering to herbal, seaspray, and oyster shell minerality on the long, crisp, and dry finish. Love the complex array of flavours. Highly recommended buy. Score: 91+ pts
Other lovely wines from Les Vignerons de La Cadiérenne can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.
wine review is this lovely dry rosé from Sancerre that arrived at the LCBO this weekend, as part of the LCBO VINTAGES Release.
Jean-Max Roger comes from a long-line of winegrowers in the village of Bué, just southwest of the town of Sancerre, with the Roger family name mentioned in texts going back to the early part of the 17th century. In the early 1970s, Jean-Max Roger took over the 4 hectares of vines left to him by his parents, and together with his wife, Nicole, developed the vineyards and further expanded the estate. In 2004, he was joined by two of this three sons, Etienne and Thibault. Today, the estate covers 34 hectares, 28 of which are in the Sancerre appellation along the Loire River.
I've always enjoyed this rose, including most recently just over three years ago when the 2017 Jean-Max Roger La Grange Dîmière Sancerre Rosé showed up at the LCBO. This lovely rose is crafted from 100% Pinot Noir grown in the villages of Vinon, Bué, and Sancerre, on flint, Kimmeridgian marls & Limestone Silex, Terres Blanches & Caillottes soils. The vines average between 25 to 45 years old and are farmed using organic principles, including revitalization of soil life, to produce grapes which reveal its terroir. In the winery, the grapes undergo a long fermentation to develop aromatic complexity and are aged on heavy lees to develop minerality.
Although little detailed information exists about the 2020 vintage in Loire, it was frost-free and relatively easy-going, resulting in an excellent vintage with berry fruited and aromatic rosé wines. Let's see how this 2020 Sancerre Rosé is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
JEAN-MAX ROGER LA GRANGE DÎMIÈRE SANCERRE ROSÉ 2020 - AC, Loire, France (#490813) (XD) - $26.95 This 100% Pinot Noir rosé has a fresh, elegant, and intense nose with attractive aromas of grapefruit, citrus, red currant, strawberry, red cherry, and mineral. It's medium+ bodied with good weight to the fruit with lovely grapefruit, citrus and red berry flavours coming through on the dry palate. Acids are well-balanced, while white pepper spice notes join the grapefruit, citrus, and red berry profile on the mid-palate, lingering through to the long, leesy mineral finish. Recommended buy. Score: 90+ pts
Other lovely wines from Jean-Max Roger are available at the LCBO, as well as through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.
wine review is a delicious rosé from Spain that arrives at the LCBO this weekend as part of the LCBO VINTAGES Release.
A relatively new producer, Bodegas Izadi was founded 1987 in the heart of Rioja Alavesa, when Gonzalo Antón, who had a passion for wine and good food, and a group of friends and business people began the ground breaking project. This innovative bodega is located in the village of Villabuena de Alava, in northern Spain, where Gonzalo's family was already growing grapes, and focuses on making fine wine.
With Gonzalo's knowledge of hotels and restaurants, Izadi wines became some of the most highly regarded wines in gastronomic circles. Over time, Izadi has introduced new winemaking techniques and improved their quality to set a particular house style of wine. In 2000, Lalo Antón, Gonzalo's son, joined the company and further expanded its reach around the globe, including adding other brands to the portfolio.
Izadi, which means nature, was the name chosen because they wanted the bodega to show the fruits of its natural surroundings. The 178 hectares of vineyards (70 of which are their own) that Izadi has access to are located in a triangle between the villages of Villabuena, Samaniego, and Abalos. These old, south-facing vineyards have a special micro-climate and are cultivated in an integrated approach with respect for its natural surroundings. The building is on a steep slope, with a 50-metre difference from top to bottom. They use gravity flow to gently move the grapes and wine throughout the 5 levels of the winery.
This particular dry rosé is 100% Garnacha from a selection of low-yield vineyards which were first planted in 1972 at an high-altitude of 790 metres above sea level. On a slope, the soils are clay-chalk with pebbles and are influenced by both the Atlantic and Mediterranean. The grape were manually harvested and vinified in stainless steel tanks. Let's see how this delightful dry rosé is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
IZADI LARROSA GARNACHA ROSÉ 2020 - DOCa Rioja, Spain (#490961) (XD) - $16.95 This 100% old-vine Garnacha pours a pretty, pale salmon colour. The medium+ intensity nose offers aromas of grapefruit, red berry, citrus, and herbs with subtle honey and floral undertones. The dry, mid-weighted palate is fleshy with ripe red berry, strawberry, grapefruit, citrus, and floral flavours with subtle herb and white pepper spice notes adding further interest. It has fresh, balanced acidity and zesty flavour replays on the dry, slightly minerally finish, with very good length. Chill well and enjoy this recommended buy. Score: 88+ pts
For , which is the second Saturday in June every year and coming up in a couple of days, wine review is a lovely dry rosé from Provence. This dry rosé wine is a new arrival to the LCBO and will be on shelves across Ontario as part of the LCBO VINTAGES Release.
Château des Ferrages is located in the village of Pourcieux, between Aix-en-Provence and Saint-Maximin in the lowland of Sainte-Victoire. Château des Ferrages was owned by winemaker Jose Garcia, whose family had been running the 30 hectare estate for three generations and making wines, primarily rosé, since 1980. In 2016, Château des Ferrages was cherry-picked by Mathilde Chapoutier Selection and acquired by legendary Rhône wine estate Maison M. Chapoutier. Two Sélections Parcellaires have emerged from these lands and apply biodynamic farming principles.
This blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Rolle (aka Vermentino) was grown on shallow, well-draining clay-limestone soils with varying amounts of sand. The parcels are located in the villages of Pourcieux and Pourrières, at the feet of Mount Aurélien and Mount Sainte-Victoire, respectively, which have a Mediterranean climate. The grapes were machine harvested at night to preserve freshness and aromas. It was produced by using the direct press method, then aged on fine lees in stainless steel vats. Let's see how this rosé is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
CHÂTEAU DES FERRAGES MON PLAISIR SAINTE-VICTOIRE ROSÉ 2020 - AC Côtes de Provence, France (#19834) (XD) - $22.95 This lovely dry rosé is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Rolle (aka Vermentino) that has a medium+ intensity nose offering lovely grapefruit, white floral, red berry, strawberry, and citrus aromas with mineral undertones. The medium-full bodied, concentrated palate is dry and complex with flavours of floral, grapefruit, orange rind, citrus, and mineral with hints of white peach. It has balanced acidity and a lick of saline on the mid-palate, while the long finish is dry, crisp, and minerally. Enjoy this recommended buy nicely chilled with hearty fish or poultry. Score: 91 pts
Other lovely wines from Château des Ferrages can be ordered through their Agent who recently launched their new website - Connexion Oenophilia.
wine reviews are a limited release set of 6 lovely and unique VQA wines called The Wine-demic Pack that were crafted by Niagara's Creekside Estate Winery and launched in . Although things are improving of late, The Wine-demic Pack recognizes some of the daily adjustments we've all had to make while living through these difficult times.
As Andrew Howard, President of Creekside Estate Winery says, "Great wine and a sense of humour is in our DNA at Creekside, so we've combined them together to create a fun and delicious box of wine that we call our Pandemic Pack (aka Wine-demic Pack). While we won't solve any of life's real problems with this collection, we think that a sense of humour and some very good wine can help to make the current struggles a little less formidable." As these are stressful times for a lot of people, Creekside is donating a portion of the proceeds from these wines to support local mental health services.
The Wine-demic Pack Collection includes 6 delicious and unique VQA wines (reviewed below), with each wine highlighting a different aspect of pandemic living, and while the labels and names are fun in nature, the wines are no joke! You can get this Collection, which includes one of each bottle for a total of 6 bottles for $125 at the winery in Jordan, Ontario, as well as through their online store for free home delivery anywhere in the province.
Intense, fresh, ripe, tropical fruit aromas of guava, kiwi, passion fruit, and lemon citrus. It's medium+ bodied on the fleshy, slightly creamy palate with lovely tropical fruit and citrus aroma replays, along with some saline notes. It has fresh acidity, while the finish has touches of saline mineral notes, with very good length. Score: 90+ pts
THE WINE-DEMIC PACK PINOT GRIS 2019 - VQA Ontario, Canada (XD) Every day is ground hog day is every day
Pours a medium-deep gold colour. The medium+ intensity nose has a slightly funky nose of peach and stone fruit aromas. It's medium+ bodied on the palate with more peach and stone fruits flavours joined by honeyed notes in a dry flavour profile. Acids are well-balanced, while more peach and stone fruit notes come through on the dry finish, with good length. Score: 88 pts
Bottled under Stelvin screw cap, this Charmat-method sparkling wine is made with Riesling and offers a fragrant nose of ripe peach, apple, citrus, and apricot with touches of white floral aromas, with lovely replays on the semi-sweet palate and frothy mousse with fresh acidity that brightens the palate. Very good length with more apple, floral, and touches of honey lingering on the finish. Score: 89 pts
This blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris has fresh, medium-high intensity aromatics with ripe raspberry, cranberry, strawberry, cherry, and herbal notes. It's medium-full bodied on the weighty, dry palate with fairly complex currant, cranberry, cherry, strawberry, and herbal flavours joined by orange zest nuances. It has very good acidity and a slightly tannic presence. Lovely herbal, currant, and red berry notes linger on the crisp, dry finish, with very good length. Score: 90+ pts
THE WINE-DEMIC PACK SYRAH 2019 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (XD) Fuzzy face and furry legs acceptance tonic
The medium+ intensity nose has funky, meaty aromas layered over dark fruit and black peppercorn. It's medium+ bodied on the palate with fresh acids and smooth, rounded, slightly dusty textured tannins that support the savoury, earthy, dark fruit, meaty, and black peppercorn flavours. Nicely balanced overall with meaty, olive, black pepper, and savoury wood notes lingering on the finish. Score: 90 pts
The nose is a bit quiet, offering glimpses of red & black fruits, currant, cassis, and touches of wood spice. The full-bodied, structured palate is ripe with currant, cassis, and black cherry with touches of wood spice and herbally mint flavours, It has fresh, balanced acidity, while the structured tannins are a bit grippy. Pleasantly savoury on the tight finish, with very good length. Enjoyable now, but should be even better in 2-3 years. Score: 90 pts
As we look forward to bright and sunny weather, wine review is a bright and lovely rosé from the southern Rhône Valley Cru of Tavel that came to the LCBO as part of the most recent LCBO VINTAGES Release on .
Perennially one of my favourite Tavel wines, this rosé takes me back to my visit to the historic Château d'Aquéria nearly three years ago. The fascinating story of Château d'Aquéria begins in 1595 when Louis Joseph d'Aqueria purchased the area of Tavel known as "Puy Sablonneux" from the monks at the Abbey in Villeneuve les Avignon. On prime vine-growing lands, his son, Robert d'Aqueria, built a home that was transformed in the 18th century into the Château that stands today. Château d'Aquéria has been owned by many families since that time, while maintaining winegrowing activities.
In 1919, Jean Olivier purchased the estate, which was then managed by his son-in-law, Paul de Bez, beginning in 1943. Today, his grandsons, Bruno and Vincent de Bez, run the estate using environmentally-friendly and sustainable agricultural principles. The climate at Château d'Aquéria is quintessentially Mediterreanean with low rainfall, plenty of sunshine, and exposure to the Mistral winds. Situated in Tavel, the distinct soils around the Château are light and sandy-clayey, and when combined with the climate are ideal for the production of the estate's great rosé wines that are both fruity and complex. Let's see how the lovely 2020 Tavel is tasting tonight...
Tasting Note:
CHÂTEAU D'AQUÉRIA TAVEL 2020 - AC, Rhône, France (#319368) (XD) - $24.95 A blend of 45% Grenache, 20% Clairette, 15% Cinsault, 8% Mourvèdre, 6% Syrah, 4% Bourboulenc, and 2% Picpoul grown on sandy-clayey hillsides. Pretty, deep red colour in classic Tavel style. Medium-high to highly aromatic nose is bright, ripe, and sunny with lovely aromas of strawberry, raspberry, and cherry joined by white pepper spice, mineral, and herbal nuances. The full-bodied palate is ripe and dry with lovely aromas replays, plus lavender and a tinge of honey on the flavour profile supported by fresh, vibrant, and citrusy acidity. It has a nicely textured, slightly chalky mouthfeel, while mineral notes linger on the long, balanced, and crisp finish. One of the best vintages ever? Highly recommended buy. Score: 91 pts
There's another Tavel by Aquéria available at the LCBO, while other lovely wines from this producer can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.
On a lovely during my visit to New Zealand last year, I was in Rotorua, a hot tourist spot on the North Island, about 2 hours away from Auckland and came across Volcanic Hills Winery.
Volcanic Hills was founded in 2009 using borrowed winery space. The brand was born from the Volcanic Plateau that is surrounded by the volcanic peaks of Ngauruhoe, Ruapehu, and Tarawera. The winery's own production facility opened in 2013 and sits at the base of the Skyline Gondola, while the Tasting Room, which opened in 2012, is located at the top of the Skyline Gondola and offers a gorgeous view of Lake Rotorua.
The winery was set up by Winemaker Brent Park and his wife Larissa. Brent went to school in Rotorua and has lived and worked in and around New Zealand for many years. He followed that up with winemaking stints in South Africa, USA, Australia and France. With over 20 years of winemaking experience, Brent decided to settle in Rotorua and make it a tourist attraction.
In case you didn't know, there are actually no grapes in Rotorua, so they source their grapes from the best wine regions in New Zealand such as Marlborough, Hawke's Bay, and Central Otago and bring them to Rotorua. The grapes arrive fresh and cold, de-stemmed by machine - the stems are then provided as feed to the animals - and continue their journey to become fine wine.
Volcanic Hills Winery is very much a small, boutique winery, with a total annual production of 5,500 cases, and all of the wines are hand-crafted in small batches. My server for the tasting, Annie, took me through a tasting of a few wines from their portfolio. Wine reviews of my favourites are provided below.
Wines from Volcanic Hills Winery have appeared at the LCBO, but the for the moment they can be ordered through their Agent - Wilson Wines & Spirits.
Tasting Notes:
VOLCANIC HILLS CHARDONNAY 2017 - Hawke's Bay, North Island, New Zealand (XD) - $29 NZD Having spent 10 months in new French oak, this Chardonnay has a rich, medium-high intensity nose that has buttery, buttered popcorn, and vanilla aromas layered over stone fruit and apple notes. It's medium-full to full-bodied on the rich palate with more buttery, vanilla, buttered popcorn, and apple flavours. Notable oak influence is nicely integrated. The long, balanced finish has more buttery, apple, and vanilla notes. Score: 89 pts
VOLCANIC HILLS SYRAH 2018 - Hawke's Bay, North Island, New Zealand (XD) - $28 NZD The medium-high intensity nose offers lovely raspberry, red berry, and plum aromas with hints of peppery spice, oak, and earthy nuances. It's medium+ bodied with light, supple tannins on the palate and pleasing dark red berry flavours mingling with spice notes. Nicely textured on the mid-palate with succulent acids. The medium-long finish has dark berry and spice tones. Score: 89 pts
VOLCANIC HILLS PINOT NOIR 2017 - Central Otago, South Island, New Zealand (XD) - $37 NZD My favourite of the visit, this has a pretty, medium-high intensity, and clean nose that leads with black cherry and strawberry aromas, followed by earthy, forest floor, and spice notes. It's medium-full bodied on the palate with very good fruit concentration and balanced acidity. Lovely aroma replays of black cherry, earth, beetroot, and spice come through on the flavour profile. Supple with smooth, fine tannins that have some heft. Long, spiced finish. A Pinot on the bigger side of the spectrum. Score: 90+ pts
VOLCANIC HILLS ROSÉ 2019 - Hawke's Bay, North Island, New Zealand (XD) - $28 NZD Made with 100% Pinot Noir, this rose has fresh strawberry, cherry, pink grapefruit, and citrusy aromas of medium-high intensity. It's dry on the medium+ bodied palate, with nice aroma replays on the flavour profile supported by fresh acidity and some tannic textural characters. Citrusy notes come through on the long, satisfying finish. Score: 89 pts
wine review is a nice, vegan-friendly Charmat method sparkling rosé wine from Tuscany that is a new arrival to the LCBO as part of the LCBO VINTAGES Release.
Located southwest of Montecarlo, in the Province of Lucca, the story of Tenuta del Buonamico begins around the year 1870 with Giulio Magnani, the owner of the farming estate Marchi-Magnani, Giulio is from Montecarlo and his knowledge and passion for winemaking drew him to France learn the grape varieties and techniques used by the French to create highly valued wines. He travelled to Bordeaux, Rhone, and Burgundy and brought back grapes from each of these classic wine regions. Upon his return, he experimented with these grapes by blending them with Trebbiano, eventually finding success. From that time, wineries in Montecarlo began producing high quality wines.
The 100 hectare Buonamico Estate is located in the Cercatoja area, southwest of Montecarlo, with 48 hectares planted to vineyards. The current winery was founded in the early 1960s by renowned restaurateurs from Turin (Italy) to furnish their restaurant with Montecarlo wines.
Today, Tenuta del Buonamico is owned by the Fontana family. They have expanded the vineyards and wine cellar, while preserving the essential characteristics of a traditional winemaking style. Beginning in 2008, world renowned winemaker Alberto Antonini was brought in long-term to help improve the wines. This assistance has helped Buonamico become one of Montecarlo's leading wine producers.
Tasting Note:
TENUTA DEL BUONAMICO PARTICOLARE BRUT ROSÉ SPARKLING - Charmat method, Tuscany, Italy (#16712) (D) - $20.95 A vegan-friendly blend of Sangiovese and Syrah grown in a hilly area in Montecarlo, within the Province of Lucca, just west of Florence in Tuscany. Modest aromas of red berry, floral, orange citrus and grapefruit rise out of the glass. The palate is chalky textured with tart, lively acidity and bubbles that comes off as essentially dry on the flavour profile with grapefruit, citrus, and red berry flavours with touches of Flintstone vitamins. Mineral notes arrive on the mid-palate and linger through to the citrus, minerally finish, with very good length. Score: 88 pts
A few wines from Tenuta del Buonamico are available in small quantities at the LCBO, while the full portfolio can be ordered via their Agent - Capital B Wines.
Personally, I enjoy drinking rosé all year-round, so for wine review I opened this lovely rosé from Argentina that arrived during the summer as part of the LCBO VINTAGES Release.
It is produced by Susana Balbo Wines, a family winery located at the foothills of the Andes in the town of Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo, within the province of Mendoza. After working in the wine business as a consultant around the globe for nearly two decades, Susana Balbo decided to fulfill a dream of having her own winery and established Susana Balbo Wines in 1999. After ten years of steady growth, Susana welcomed her children - José, winemaker who graduated from UC Davis (California) and Ana, Bachelor of Business Administration from University San Andrés (Buenos Aires) - to the family business as they joined the team.
The team at Susana Balbo Wines is devoted to sustainable winemaking, quality, and innovation. They work daily to address issues related to their product's sustainability throughout all of their production processes, including corporate social responsibility, environmental impact, and economic growth. Susana Balbo Wines has acquired various sustainability certifications and is in the process of becoming a Certified B Corporation.
Argentina is characterized by having large tracts of fertile land with diverse climates. Being situated at the foothills of the Andes, these high mountains accumulate ice of the purest water which will then slowly melt during the spring and summer months to provide a unique source for the development of their vineyards. And even though Malbec is the most widely planted varietal in Argentina, it offers a wide palate of flavours depending on the altitude and soil where it is planted. weather conditions, and the winemaking process. This brings us to the art of blending, where Susana combines the knowledge of terroir and winemaking skills, allowing her to express her talent.
As with the 2018 Susana Balbo Signature White Blend that I enjoyed back in August, tonight's rosé wine is also a blend. This dry rosé is a blend of 60% Malbec and 40% Pinot Noir that was grown in vineyards 1,200 metres above and hand-harvested. Susana decided to experiment by creating a new, fresh, aromatic, and engaging rosé in the style of Provence, applying similar techniques used for white wines - early picking times and extremely gentle pressing to get a very light-pink, red onion peel, salmon colour.
If you are in the Ottawa area, there are quite few bottles this delicious rose available for purchase at the LCBO, while only minute quantities remain elsewhere across Ontario. This rosé is also available, along with other wines from Susana Balbo, via their Agent - Profile Wine Group.
Tasting Note:
SUSANA BALBO SIGNATURE ROSÉ 2019 - Altamira, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina (#493130) (XD) - $22.95 A hand-harvested 60/40 blend of Malbec and Pinot Noir grown at 1,200 metres above sea level. It has an elegant melange of melon, grapefruit, orange citrus and floral aromas. It is medium-full bodied with good concentration on the palate with bright, lively acidity. Tangy citrus, grapefruit, peppery, and mineral with a kiss of honeyed notes in a dry flavour profile. Crisp and dry on the long finish with a touch of mineral. Lovely! Score: 90 pts
After exploring and enjoying some fabulous Wines of Argentina a couple of weeks ago, tonight's wine reviews are another look at three Argentine wines coming to LCBO VINTAGES on August 22 and one that is in stores now.
Grapes are grown in Argentina stretching 3,800 km from north to south. with vineyards making quality wines covering nearly 500,000 acres. The diversity of terroirs where the vines are grown imprint distinctive characters and profiles of each variety.
Torrontés is the most cultivated white wine varietal in Argentina with 5% of the total cultivated area within the country devoted to the grape. Torrontés is only found in Argentina and there are three variants - Mendocino, Sanjuanino, and Riojano. Of the three variants, Riojano is the most cultivated and expresses the best qualities for the production of fine wines, especially those found in Cafayate Valley, Salta. Torrontés is Argentina's signature white wine and winemaker Susana Balbo is known as the "Queen of Torrontés" for her role in transforming Torrontés from an unknown blending grape into Argentina’s star white varietal.
Pink-skinned varieties - primarily the indigenous Cereza and Criolla Grande - currently make up 24% of all vines cultivated in Argentina. However, in the not-too-long-ago past, these varietals were actually the most widely planted in the country until they were supplanted by Malbec in more recent years. While I don't think I have ever seen (or tasted) wines made with these indigenous grapes, Pinot Gris also falls into the pink-skinned category and is included as part of the blend that makes up the Luigi Bosca Rosé.
Malbec is far and away the most widely planted varietal in Argentina, claiming top spot only in 2011, with 22% of the country's vine acreage devoted to the grape. It is Argentina's flagship red wine grape and many of the country's top wines are made using this varietal. An astounding 85% of the Malbec planted in Argentina is within Mendoza, while in second place is San Juan (neighbouring north of Mendoza) with 6%. In third place is Salta, in the north of Argentina, with just over 3%. These three region combine to produce 94% of the country's Malbec.
The Malbec reviewed below is one of my favourite wallet-friendly Malbec wines - and there are many - as Argentina is widely known for offering great value for the quality of its wines. This particular Malbec is from Tunuyán in the Uco Valley, nestled beside the cordillera of the Andes in higher altitude, cooler, and southern area of Mendoza that is characterized by the crossing of the Las Tunas and Tunuyán rivers. The vineyards in Uco Valley range in altitude from 900 to 2,200 metres above sea level (masl), which are the highest in Mendoza and among the highest in the world. Tunuyán was first settled in the 17th century, but only began planting vines in 1995. As the vines matured, it was realized beginning in 2010 that the high altitude vines in Tunuyán create a different wine style. This led to further research to understand the terroir of the area, and eventually the discovery of exciting micro-regions within Tunuyán.
The last wine in this post comes from the Paraje Altamira GI (Geographical Indication), an area located to the south of Uco Valley in San Carlos, right next to La Consulta. The area, which was originally called Altamira, was known for producing excellent grapes for many years - it was first planted in 1900. It produces wines of unique colour and tannic concentration, flavour and freshness. Paraje Altamira GI is placed at an altitude of 1,000 to 1,200 masl and officially became a GI in 2013 and now consists of an area nearly 10,000 ha, of which nearly 3,000 ha are planted to vine. One of the most important aspects of Paraje Altamira GI is that it was the first appellation in Argentina delineated by the concept of terroir - instead of by political boundaries - paving the way for future terroir-based GIs. The end result are unique, high-quality, and delicious wines with a sense of place.
Tasting Notes:
SUSANA BALBO CRIOS TORRONTÉS 2019 - Argentina (#1834) (XD) - $14.95 $12.95 until Sept. 13. Torrontés grapes from Cafayate (Salta) and Uco Valley (Mendoza) grown at an average of 1,700 masl. All of the fruit was hand-harvested and spent 3 months on lees. Screw cap. Fresh and highly aromatic with floral, green grassy-herbal, lemon citrus, and grapefruit notes. The medium-bodied, slightly creamy palate has crunchy, tart citrus fruit flavours plus some herbs and floral. Acids are well-balanced and juicy. Somewhat chalky mineral textured and saline on the mid-palate, followed by mineral and lime citrus notes on the finish, with very good length. VINTAGES Essentials listing and available year-round. Agent: Profile Wine Group. Score: 88 pts
LUIGI BOSCA A ROSÉ IS A ROSÉ IS A ROSÉ 2019 - Mendoza, Argentina (#553032) (XD) - $18.95 A blend of Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir from grapes grown in Luján de Cuyo and Maipú at an altitude of 780 metres. An interesting caramel and honey nose surrounds notes of citrus and grapefruit. It's quite full and structured in the mouth with honeyed, floral, grapefruit, and tangy citrus flavours in a dry profile. Juicy acids follow through to the honey and floral finish. A big, dry rosé with very good length. Agent: FWM Canada. Score: 88 pts
SALENTEIN RESERVE MALBEC 2018 - Tunuyán, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina (#640854) (XD) - $17.95 100% estate grown Malbec from shallow, alluvial, and pebbly soils, with 70% coming from the El Oasis estate (1,050+ masl) and 30% from the La Pampa estate (1,250+ masl). The clean, medium-high intensity nose offers smoky minerality, dark berry, spice, and plum with whiffs of dried herb. It's mid-weighted on the fresh, juicy palate with very good acidity and flavours of dark berry, blackberry, smoky mineral, and spice with touches of violet. Tannins are smooth and refined. Dark berry and mineral with touches of chocolate linger on the long, juicy finish. Agent: Azureau Wines & Spirits. Score: 89 pts
ZAHA EL CORTE 2016 - Toko Vineyard, Paraje Altamira, Mendoza, Argentina (#629972) (XD) - $24.95 Zaha means "Heart" in the native Huarpe language of Mendoza. The Toko (stone) vineyard has diverse soils - sandy soils, rocky limestone rich soils with abundant white surface stones, and shallow silty soils mixed with gravel. Co-fermented blend of 78% Malbec and 22% Cabernet Sauvignon. Fresh, spicy, scorched earth, and stony mineral notes jump out of the glass followed by some dark spices, herbs, and dark berry. The refined, medium-full bodied palate has smooth, structured, nicely textured and slightly chalky tannins. It's very minerally on the flavour profile with spice, dried herb, plum, and dark berry tones. Acids are fresh and mouth-watering. It's well-balanced throughout with mineral notes lingering on the long, juicy, and spicy finish. Very distinctive and highly recommended buy. Agent: Noble Estates Wine & Spirits. Score: 91+ pts
Over the Civic Holiday long weekend, I had a great opportunity - thanks to Wines of Argentina! - to taste through and explore many lovely Argentine wines that will be arriving at the LCBO as part of the LCBO VINTAGES Release that features wines from Argentina.
In fact, there are more than 30 Argentine wines coming through LCBO VINTAGES this summer and fall - and I will be writing about nearly all of these over the coming weeks - but we'll begin our look at wines from Argentina with these 7 wines.
With 895 wineries, Argentina is the 5th largest wine producer globally and is 7th most in cultivated surface. Of course, Malbec is Argentina's flagship grape that we all know and love and is usually the first grape that comes to mind when we think of Argentine wine. However, only 22% (44,000 hectares) of Argentine vineyards are devoted to Malbec. Bonarda is currently Argentina's 2nd most planted grape with 18,000 hectares planted to this varietal. However, this was always not the case as Bonarda was the most planted grape in Argentina until the end of the last century. The 3rd most widely planted grape is Cabernet Sauvignon - and not far behind Bonarda in acreage - has been extensively researched in recent years. Not surprisingly, Cabernet Sauvignon expresses different profiles depending on where its grown, and in Argentina the trend has been to grown this varietal in colder, higher altitude zones. These three red grapes combine to make up the majority of Argentina's wine production, making Argentina very much a red wine producing nation.
However, with 36,000 hectares of vines planted to white grape varietals, Argentina does produce some white wines. Argentina has many old vineyards in perfect condition, but winemakers are also innovating by reconditioning and reviving old vineyards, as well as experimenting with earlier harvests that result in wines with higher acidity and lower alcohol. Winemakers are also exploring new regions for white wines such as at very high altitude sites, in poor, high drainage, calcareous soils, and different micro-climates within the desert regions of the Andes mountains and in Oceanic, coastal vineyards. Another area of experimentation is fermentation vessels such as using amphoras, spheres, and pressurized barrel fermenters. Torrontés Riojano - found only in Argentina - is the most widely planted white varietal at nearly 8,000 hectares, making it the country's signature white wine. The other white varietal of prominence is Chardonnay with almost 6,000 hectares planted. Sauvignon Blanc has seen explosive growth over the last 14 years to become the 3rd most planted white varietal. The final grape of note is Semillón - with 650 hectares planted - and it develops well in cool, moderate climates such as those found in the Uco Valley (Mendoza) and Rio Negro Upper Valley (Patagonia). The white wine below is a delightful blend of three of these varietals.
One of the most interesting aspects of winegrowing in Argentina is the landscape. Grapes are grown from 22° to 45° southern latitude along a strip that follows the Andes mountain range, and heights reaching up to an astounding 3,300 metres above sea level - which are among the highest in the world.
The Cuyo, in central western Argentina, contains 95% of the country's total acreage planted to vines. Located in the Cuyo are the wine regions of La Rioja, San Juan, and the heart of Argentine wine production - Mendoza. The highest peaks of the Andes are found in Mendoza, thus acting as a barrier to the humid winds from the Pacific Ocean. The altitude, continental climate, heterogeneity of soils, and snowmelt are key contributors to the production of excellent wines in the region. Mendoza is divided into 5 sub-regions - Valle de Uco (Tunuyán, Tupungato, and San Carlos), Primera Zone (Luján de Cuyo and Maipú), Northern Oasis (Lavalle and Las Heras), the East (San Martín, Rivadavia, Junín, Santa Rosa and La Paz), and the South (San Rafael, Malargüe and General Alvear). Moreover, new research has led to the identification of micro-regions within these terroirs, with new Geographical Indications (GIs) being certified as contributing distinctive characteristics to their wines.
Located north of Cuyo are the wine regions of Jujuy, Salta, Tucumán, and Catamarca, collectively known as The North. It is here that some of the world's highest-altitude vineyards are located. Viticultural tradition in the region can be traced back to the 18th century and primarily located in the Calchaquí Valleys - a system of mountains that formed 5 million years ago and stretch 270 km. The town of Cafayate, in Salta, is home to 60% all of vineyards in The North. The wines from this region are strongly influenced by the terroir and high altitude, with its arid and dry climate, very high average temperatures and diurnal temperature variation, long growing season, and sandy-loam soils. The Cabernet Sauvignon reviewed below is a great example from Cafayate.
The Patagonia and Atlantic Region is south of Cuyo and forms a large area that is flanked by low mountains to the west and extends to the ocean in the east. Five regions encompass the area - Neuquén is located to the southwest of La Pampa, while Río Negro is to the south and borders both regions. Newer projects have regions further to the south in Chubut, and towards the ocean to the east in Chapadmalal (Buenos Aires). It is interesting to note that the city of Buenos Aires has a wine consumption rate per capita that is 2nd only to Paris.
Wine reviews are provided below and all of these lovely wines will be in stores by . You will also be able to order them online at LCBO.com where Wines of Argentina is sponsoring an amazing contest to Win the Ultimate Backyard Makeover - a $10,000 grand prize that includes a Home Depot Gift Card and four premium cuts of 100% Argentine beef valued at $600. To enter this contest, simply spend at least $100 on LCBO.com - easily achieved by adding a few of these lovely Argentine wines to your shopping cart. This contest closes .
Tasting Notes:
SUSANA BALBO SIGNATURE WHITE BLEND 2018 - Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina (#558734) (XD) - $21.95
This blend of 35% Semillón, 35% Sauvignon Blanc, and 30% Torrontés was grown at 1,050 metres above sea level. It has a medium-high intensity, ripe nose of asparagus and grassy tones with some yellow floral, passion fruit, and lime citrus with touches of mineral adding complexity. It's medium+ bodied on the palate with very good concentration and zesty, limey acidity. Pleasing citrus, herbal, asparagus flavours with a fine, underlying minerality. It has a nice, chalky texture on the mid-palate while the finish is long and zesty. Agent: Profile Wine Group. Score: 90+ pts
LA MASCOTA ROSÉ 2019 - Mendoza, Argentina (#15182) (XD) - $16.95
Screw cap. This 100% Malbec Rosé has a medium+ intensity nose offering bright red berry, cherry, and strawberry aromas with touches of citrus, all of which come through nicely on the ripe red berry and citrus palate with some spice and floral notes adding interest to the flavour profile. It's somewhat fleshy on the mid-palate with bracing acidity. Nicely dry overall with subtle stony mineral and saline characters on the long, fresh finish. Very impressive. Agent: Univins and Spirits. Score: 89 pts
LUIGI BOSCA TERROIR LOS MIRADORES MALBEC 2017 - Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina (#568899) (XD) - $34.95
This single vineyard Malbec from vines averaging only 10 years old was grown at 1,150 metres above sea level. It has a clean, fresh, elegant, fragrant, and ripe nose of spice, stony mineral, violet, blackberry, and touches of herb. The spicy, medium bodied palate is ripe with very nice replays and sweet, elegant tannins and flavours of dark berry, blackberry, and violet accented with spice and stony minerals. It's juicy on the mid-palate with fresh acidity. Long, stony, spicy finish with subtle oak nuances. Lovely! Agent: FWM Canada. Score: 91 pts
LA MASCOTA MALBEC 2018 - Mendoza, Argentina (#555805) (XD) - $16.95
This Malbec was grown in deep, stony soils and aged for 12 months in new French and American oak barrels. The medium intensity nose has dark berry, black cherry, and white pepper spice aromas mingling with stony mineral and touches of plum, floral, and oak. It is medium-full bodied on the palate with dark berry, black cherry, white pepper spice, and oak influenced flavours. The smooth, rounded tannins have a slightly chalky texture, while acids are well-balanced. Very good length on the spicy, dark berry, and cocoa scented finish. A nice wine that I'd like to see with a little less oak. Agent: Univins and Spirits. Score: 88+ pts
LA CELIA RESERVA MALBEC/CABERNET FRANC 2017 - Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina (#618280) (XD) - $14.95
This co-fermented blend of 80% Malbec and 20% Cabernet Franc has a medium intensity nose that leads with woody, herbal, and green pepper tones backed by some red and dark currant aromas and subtle spiciness. It is medium+ bodied with herbal, woody, currant, and peppery spice flavours with well-integrated, subtly grippy, crunchy tannins. Acids are fresh, while the finish length is very good. Agent: Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits. Score: 87 pts
EL ESTECO 1947 OLD VINES CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2018 - Cafayate Valley, Salta, Argentina (#15082) (XD) - $24.95
From pergola-trained vines whose origins can be traced back to 1947, and raised entirely in cement egg with natural yeasts. Fresh, aromatic nose has herbaceous, paprika, olive, and minty notes with some cassis, red and black fruits and some minerals. It is full bodied on the complex palate with peppery, spice, paprika, olive, cassis, currant, herbal, and plum flavours with some earthiness supported by fresh acidity. Smooth, refined tannins have some grip on the back palate, while the long finish is earthy and stony with olive notes. Agent: Dandurand. Score: 90+ pts
LA POSTA ESTELA ARMANDO BONARDA 2018 - Mendoza, Argentina (#261586) (XD) - $15.95
From 50+ year old vines located in the Guaymallén region. Ripe and fruity nose with raspberry, blueberry, and spice. It's medium+ bodied on the fruity palate with raspberry, red berry and spice flavours balanced with fresh acidity and smooth, rounded tannins. The fruit and spice notes are joined by some chocolate notes on the finish, with very good length. Agent: Noble Estates Wine & Spirits. Score: 88 pts
wine review is this excellent Bandol Rosé that arrived in LCBO VINTAGES on . This rose has improved in quality every time I've tasted it, including the excellent 2018 La Cadiérenne Cuvée Grande Tradition Bandol Rosé that I enjoyed last summer, so I would fully expect the 2019 to be just as outstanding. Provence experienced some extreme weather conditions again, leading to slightly lower yields in 2019, but vintage quality was excellent.
We don't see too many Bandol wines here in Ontario, but wine has been made in Bandol ever since the Greeks colonized the area more than 2,600 years ago. Bandol is located in Provence, along the French Riviera between Marseille and Toulon. Bandol was one of the first French appellations granted AOC status in 1941, and today, 60% of the entire production is devoted to rosé wine. It is also noteworthy to mention that Mourvèdre - a late-maturing black varietal that is ideal for the terrain and climate of Bandol - is the principle grape of the region, and makes up the majority of this rosé.
This particular rosé is produced by Les Vignerons de La Cadiérenne, a group of producers that formed the co-operative in 1929 and celebrated 90 years of winemaking in 2019. La Cadiérenne is the largest producer of PDO Bandol wines, working with 294 winegrowers that have approximately 600 hectares of land - of which 400 hectares are classified as AOP. The vines are mostly planted on hillsides within the municipalities of La Cadière d'Azur, Le Castellet, and Saint-Cyr sur Mer. Other wines from the La Cadiérenne portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.
Tasting Note:
LA CADIÉRENNE CUVÉE GRANDE TRADITION BANDOL ROSÉ 2019 - AC, Provence, France (#119453) (XD) - $24.95
This Bandol Rosé is a blend of 40% Mourvèdre, 30% Grenache, and 30% Cinsault from vines averaging 20 years and grown on clay-limestone and marl soils. All of the grapes were hand-harvested, partly de-stemmed, crushed, and vinified separately. Lovely, fresh, balanced, and complex aromas of nectarine, melon, citrus, grapefruit, red berry, and blackberry with touches of minerality. The dry, medium-full bodied palate has a lovely texture with fresh, vibrant acidity and spicy berry, orchard fruit, currant, anise, and saline mineral flavours. Some wild herbs on the mid-palate, while mineral notes linger on the long, juicy finish. Complex, elegant, and refreshing. Recommended buy. Score: 91 pts
wine review is a nice, dry rosé from Argentina that is widely at LCBO outlets across Ontario.
Bodega Argento was established 1998 in a building that housed a winery since 1970. It is located in Cruz de Piedra - the historic heart of wine production in the traditional Maipú wine region in Mendoza, and is surrounded by vineyards and olive groves, as well as offering views of the Andes mountains in the distance. The name of the winery, 'Argento', translates to silver in Latin, and relates strongly the silver thread of tradition that runs through the veins of the country, while also paying homage to Argentina's long history of crafting precious wines.
With more than 284 hectares of certified organic vineyards, Bodega Argento is one of Argentina's largest organic producers. Sustainability has been a top priority since the beginning as they use recycled glass and special water treatments, among the many sustainable initiatives. Argento makes a wide portfolio of wines from not only from Maipú, but also from their vineyards in Lujan de Cuyo, the Uco Valley, and in Eastern Mendoza. Some of these wines can be found through their agent's new website - Profile Wine Group, or at the LCBO.
Tasting Note:
ARGENTO ROSÉ 2019 - Mendoza, Argentina (#13245) (XD) - $10.95
Screw cap. This Syrah-based blend has fresh aromas of red berry with touches of melon and sea breeze rising out of the glass. The medium bodied palate is dry and spicy with lively acidity and more red berry and melon flavours, plus touches of blood orange. Good length on the lip-smacking finish with touches of saline. A nice rosé to cool down with for under $11. Score: 87 pts
wine review is this casual, fun, and easy drinking rosé sparkling wine from Niagara.
FRESH Wines are crafted in Niagara-on-the-Lake by Lakeview Wine Co., a division of Diamond Estates, with a focus on creative, high-quality wines. FRESH is the perfect Niagara wine brand for intrepid wine drinkers who dare to try something a little different.
Each wine from the FRESH line is crafted from 100% Ontario grapes, grown by Ontario farmers and their families. FRESH wines are available in several popular varieties, respectfully priced and readily available to join you on your personal journey of possibilities.
FRESH SPARKLING ROSÉ - Méthode Cuve Close, VQA Ontario, Canada (#341347) (D) - $16.95
A blend of 60% Riesling and 40% Gamay made in the Charmat method. Soft, gentle nose offers honeysuckle, red berry, floral, and lemon pith aromas. The palate is off-dry with strawberry, citrus, floral, honeysuckle, and grapefruit flavours. Mousse is a touch frothy while clean, fresh acidity livens the palate. Floral, grapefruit, and citrus notes linger on the pithy finish. Easy drinking bubbly ideal as an aperitif. Score: 86 pts
The of our wine tour through the southern Rhône Valley took us through Lirac and Tavel AOCs. This day followed visits to Luberon and Ventoux, Cairanne, and Costières de Nîmes earlier in the week.
Tavel is located on the right bank of Rhône River. It achieved AOC status since 1937 and was actually the second to establish Cru status, right after the famous Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This southern Rhône Valley Cru is also unique in that it is the only Cru where all appellation wines must be rosé wine.
Vines have been cultivated in Tavel since the 5th century BC, first planted by the Greeks and then expanded by the Romans. The name "Villa Tavellis" first appeared in 13th century writings, eventually becoming Tavel. From 1737, a royal edict made it illegal to add foreign wines to those from Tavel and winemakers were also required to mark their barrels with "C.d.R." (Côte du Rhône), thus setting the precedent for what would become the AOC. In 1902, Tavel vineyard owners and winemakers formed a union to build the reputation of their rose wines. This eventually led to winemakers from Tavel petitioning the Gard to officially define the production area and become an AOC in 1937.
The soils in Tavel are mainly composed of alluvial, sandy, marly limestone, and crystalline & gravelly limestone, while the climate is Mediterranean where the sun and mistral winds are dominant. Nine grapes are permitted in Tavel, and no more than 60% of one varietal can be included in the final blend. Thus, all Tavel wines are blends, with Grenache often being the base. Traditionally, Tavel wines typically have a darker red colour due to the longer maceration times, where the grape skins have more contact with the must and creating wines that are more powerful and even somewhat tannic. However, there is a trend currently towards lighter rosés from Tavel due to the success of the lighter styles from Provence.
The introduction to Tavel actually began , during a lovely dinner at the Michelin-starred Entre Vigne & Garrigue with Thomas Giubbi of Vignobles & Compagnie, and Guillaume Demoulin of Château Trinquevedel. We tasted some of their latest Tavel wines, as well as got to try a 2014 Tavel that showed how well Tavel wines can age.
Vignobles & Compagnie was formed in 1963 when the growers of the department of the Gard came together with the aim of promoting Rhône Valley wines. The cellar, which was strategically located near the Pont du Gard, was also created at this time, is still in use today, and recently gained Heritage Status. The company has changed hands over the years, with Jean-Marie Berteau taking over the reins in 1972 and remaining in charge for 34 years. It was during this period that site underwent modernization and experienced major economic growth. In 1990, the Taillan Group took over activities and formed partnerships with local winegrowers. In 2011, Thomas Giubbi became the Managing Director at Vignobles & Compagnie and worked on grape supply to improve the quality of the wines, a task he continues to work on as he forges partnerships with many vineyards across the southern Rhône Valley. Vignobles & Compagnie is committed to working alongside its partner winegrowers to support, develop, and secure the future of these family estates by providing assistance in the vineyard, vinification, and the ageing process. The also help these estates market their wines. Thomas and his team are working towards exporting their wines to Ontario.
Guillaume Demoulin is the 4th generation of his family to farm the vineyards at Château Trinquevedel. His great-grandfather, Eugène, founded the 13th century estate in 1936 and began to the revive the site that was overrun with wild weeds. By 1960, the grapes were finally producing wine worthy of bottling. Today, there are 32 hectares of estate vineyards located in the hills Montagne Noire and planted to varietals such as Grenache, Cinsault, and Clairette. Soils consist primarily of sand and quartzite rounded stones. Wines are crafted to show typicity and quality of the Cru while using traditional and innovative wine growing techniques, while also respecting the environment.
In addition to the roles at their respective company's, Thomas and Guillaume are also co-presidents of the Syndicat Viticole de l’Appellation Tavel winemakers association. Among their more recent activities is the introduction of a new, modernized coat of arms that will be embossed on the neck of Tavel wines. This was a 2-year project that will finally be realized beginning with the 2018 vintage.
Entre Vigne & Garrigue is a small, family-owned bed & breakfast and restaurant created in a charming 17th century stone farmhouse located in the Rhône Valley countryside. The surroundings were quite serene and peaceful. The gourmet dinner was lovely and included a cheese cart like I've never seen before!
After a restful night, it was another early start, with more wet weather as we toured Tavel and Lirac. The first stop of the day was at the historic Tavel producer Château d’Aqueria. The fascinating history of Château d’Aqueria begins in 1595, when Louis Joseph d’Aqueria purchased the area of Tavel known as "Puy Sablonneux" from the monks at the Abbey in Villeneuve les Avignon. His son, Robert d'Aqueria, built a home that was transformed in the 18th century into the Château as it stands today. The estate has changed hands many times since the 18th century, all the while maintaining winegrowing activities because the terroir is very suitable for winegrowing. The estate has been in the same family for three generations now, when Jean Olivier purchased the estate 1919, and his son-in-law Paul de Bez began managing the estate in 1943, followed by his grandsons Bruno and Vincent de Bez, who today continue to run the estate.
Today, there are 60+ ha of vineyards surrounding the Château with light, sandy-clayey soils that are ideal for the production of rose's, while the limestone scree soils on their property just east of the Château in Lirac help produce white wines with outstanding fruit and depth. Château d’Aqueria practices organic fertilization and is High Environmental Value (HVE) certified, a system that promotes biodiversity and an environmentally-friendly agricultural approach involving pesticides, fertilization and water resource management. We met up with Vincent who gave us a tour of the facility, followed by a tasting of some of their latest wines. More wet weather lingered in the area, so we did not get a tour of the vineyards. However, Vincent told us we could drive to one of their nearby vineyards and it was amazingly littered with thousands (!) of rounded pebbles that allow the vines to grow in the best possible conditions thanks to the natural soil filter.
The next stop was at Domaine Coudoulis, a winery in Lirac located on a terrace overlooking the village of Saint-Laurent-des-Arbres. The family-owned and -operated estate winery was purchased by Bernard Callet in 1996 because he knew the site had fabulous soil. After 10 years of observing and learning about the site, Bernard called upon Patrick Hilaire, a man who had worked on some of the most famous vineyards, to create terroir-driven wines worthy of the Domaine. As Bernard explained, the vineyards have existed on this site since the 1960's on old terroir with its alluvial terraces that are rich in round pebbles - similar to Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Since that time, the building was rebuilt in 2011 into a modern facility with large concrete vats for fermentation and ageing, all the while transitioning their 25 hectares of vineyards to organic winemaking. Unfortunately, they do not make any rosés - as the rosé wines from this site are too dark compared to the current trend of light coloured rosés. They also currently do not make any white wines. However, there are plans to make some white wines as they planted some Grenache Blanc in 2017. Thus, after tasting their fine selection of red wines we took a tour of their modern winemaking facility and barrel cellar. We'll have to check back in a few years to see how Domaine Coudoulis fared with their Grenache Blanc.
Lunch was in the heart of Saint-Laurent-des-Arbres at Restaurant Le Papet and we were joined by Edouard Guerin, Director of Wines and Vineyards at Ogier, and Stéphane Soulier, Sales Manager at Les Vignerons de Tavel.
The story of Ogier begins with Ogier the Dane, an eccentric man who went off to fight in Basque country around 800 A.D. and on his way back home stopped in Massif Central. His stop became permanent and the Ogier name spread throughout the Rhône Valley. Antoine Ogier is a distant descendant of Ogier the Dane and he acquired an old cooperage in 1859. The main winery is in Chateauneu-du-Pape, where an old cooperage was converted into maturation cellars and is the largest in the Rhône Valley with its walls bearing witness to a history dating back to the Middle Ages. In 1995 with the arrival of Didier Couturier, the winery undergoes renewal, establishing relationships with winegrowers, and giving rise to the Ogier style - purity of fruit, freshness, and depth. During this time, a precision approach from vine to winemaking with a minimal interventionalist approach becomes the Ogier hallmark. Edouard was personable, friendly and showed plenty of passion for wine during lunch. I hope our paths cross again someday as the wines from Ogier were lovely. The Lirac Blanc and Tavel wines, one of each, we tasted from Ogier during lunch were fresh and delicious, especially the unreleased-at-the-time Lirac Blanc that ended up being one of my favourite wines of the day.
The cooperative cellar Les Vignerons de Tavel was founded in 1937, one year after the birth of AOP Tavel, when a few winemakers from decided to unite. France's first cooperative was inaugurated by the President of France, Albert Lebrun, in 1938 and was declared to be part of France's national heritage in 2013. Just weeks after my visit to Rhône, the cooperatives Les Vignerons de Tavel merged with the Cave des Vins de Cru in Lirac to become Cave des Vignerons de Tavel and Lirac that now represents 90 vine growers, 880 hectares of vines, and 35,000 hectolitres of production within AOC Tavel and Lirac, and other southern Rhône Valley appellations.
After lunch, we navigated the narrow streets of the village of Montfaucon, on the right bank of the Rhône River in Lirac, to visit the historic Château de Montfaucon. The first inhabitants of the exceptional Montfaucon rocky hill located across Châteauneuf-du-Pape can be traced back to the pre-historic era. In the 11th century, the castle's first watchtower was built as the Rhône River was a border between the French Kingdom and the Holy Roman German Empire. After the castle was extended in the Middle Ages, the King of France gave title to the first Baron of Montfaucon to the powerful Laudun family in 1420. 100 years later, a winery is built at the bottom of the Château and wine was made here until 1936, when it was converted to a barrel cellar for ageing. Between 1936 and 1995, even though the family cultivated the vines, the grapes were sold to a cooperative.
Current owner, Rodolphe de Pins, took over the family estate in 1995, rebuilt the winery, and began producing wine. His ancestors, the de Pertuis family, acquired the castle in 1766 and Joseph Gabriel de Pertuis became the Baron de Montfaucon. Joseph's son, Eugene, had a son named Louis who would become Baron Louis de Montfaucon. As they discovered with old wine labels with the name "1829 Vin de Monsieur le Baron de Montfaucon", they found that both Eugene and Louis were amateurs in wine. Baron Louis restored the Château and left the estate upon his death in 1910 to his young niece, Madeleine, since he never married or had children. When Madeleine married, she became Comtesse de Pins. She is also Rodolphe's grandmother.
Today, Château de Montfaucon has more than 60 ha of vines, including a recent purchase of a 7 ha Cru Lirac vineyard that has a plot containing 140-year-old Clairette vines. The vineyards of Château de Montfaucon have a diversity of soils - calcareous pebbelstone on silty sandy soil, soil with clay, and sandy soil - and exposures. Rodolphe has a natural approach to winemaking with minimal intervention, allowing the fruit to express its flavours. He also likes to make wines that have elegance, finesse, and complexity, while also being enjoyable and easy to drink.
White wines make up 10% of the production at Château de Montfaucon and all of the wines we tasted in the 500 year old cellar with Rodolphe were delicious, including a lovely back-vintage 2012 Clairette and 2011 Lirac white cuvée. Unfortunately, once again due to the rain, we were not able to see any of the vineyards. Rodolphe also invited us for a quick visit to his home - the Château (i.e. the real castle) located some minutes walking distance from the Domaine that was perched atop the village of Montfaucon, but the rains and lack of time would not allow it. All in all, this was a very fine visit that I would highly recommend to anyone visiting Lirac.
Lirac is located just north of Tavel and sits across the river from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, sharing many of the same characteristics as its famous neighbour. The area is very Mediterranean with plenty of sunshine and Mistral winds. Moreover, many of the vineyards in Lirac are laid out in terraces on hillsides among garrigue scrubland. There are three main soil types - limestone plateaus that covered with red clay and pebbles, ancient alluvial terraces made up of quartz pebbles and red clay atop a bed of sand, and sand laced with small pebbles. Due to soil diversity, many different grapes thrive here. Lirac achieved Cru status in 1947, making it the third oldest Rhône Valley Cru. At the time, it was known for producing easy drinking rose. Today, however, only 3% of the appellation's production is devoted to rosé (and 10% to white wines.)
The history of winemaking in Lirac goes back more than two thousand years. The small, nearby town of Roquemaure and its port became quite prosperous and powerful as it exported the wines of Cote du Rhône to Paris, England, and Holland. In the 16th century, the wines from Lirac gained a reputation for high quality wines that were served in the royal courts of France and abroad. In 1727, Lirac wines were the first from Rhône to be branded as C.d.R. to certify their origin, thus making Lirac Cru the original appellation. As mentioned earlier, the C.d.R. branding was applied to Tavel in 1737, and was later given to all wines from Côtes du Rhône.
The final winery visit of the day was in the heart of Tavel at Domaine Lafond Roc-Epine. The Lafond family has a rather long history of wine growing that began in 1780 with Pascal Odoyer, the governor of Tavel, was one of the first wine growers in his village and also the great-uncle of Jean-Pierre Lafond. In 1948, Valéry Taulier, the grandfather of current owner Pascal Lafond built the first private cellar of Tavel and contributed greatly to the growth of the Tavel appellation. In 1970, Jean-Pierre Lafond, Valéry Taulier’s son-in-law and a lover of race horses names his wine estate "Roc-Epine" in memory of the famous race horse, and Domaine Lafond Roc-Epine was born. In 1978, Pascal and his father Jean-Pierre Lafond begin bottling their own wines. Fast forward to 2009, they begin organic certification and eliminate the use of pesticides, herbicides and other chemical products, while only using copper and sulphite to protect the vineyards from the disease. In 2012, they received their organic certification and an emphasis to produce wine in the vineyard was strengthened. In 2015, the next generation of the Lafond family begins work at the winery with the arrival of Jean-Baptiste Lafond, Pascal's son, after he completed his BTS Viticulture-Oenology studies in Beaune. In addition to Tavel wines, they also produce Lirac appellation wines. In total, 3 hectares of vines are devoted white grape varieties, while 23 hectares are planted with red varietals, with soils consisting of mainly white rocks, sandy soil, and pebbles (alluvial soil). In terms of whites and rosé wines, they had a Lirac Blanc and two Tavel Rosés, and all three were delicious.
A fine day of wine tasting in Lirac and Tavel concluded at Entre Vigne & Garrigue, where Frédéric Grasset of Château de Ségriès joined us for dinner and to present his wines. Frédéric is the son-in-law of owner Henri de Lanzac. In 1994, Henri purchased the domain that included a partly ruined mansion from the 17th century that belonged to the noble Regis de Gatimel family since 1804. This makes Château de Ségriès one of the oldest estates in Lirac. Three generations of the family work at the Château, including the 75-year-old Henri. His son, Laurent, is the viticulturist and winemaker, while his daughter Anna, wife of Frédéric, also works at the winery. Together, they manage 58 ha of old vines averaging 80 years of age on mainly clay-limestone soils. Only a small portion of this acreage is devoted to AOP Lirac white wines, while 11 ha in a single vineyard in Tavel. Château de Ségriès only makes one Lirac Blanc and one Tavel wine, so it was nice to try the two most recent vintages of each wine during dinner.
Looking back on this day, Tavel was everything I expected it to be - traditionally deeply coloured, fruity and dry, high quality rose wines, with some having slightly tannic and structured characters that some might even call light red wines, while others were made in the more trendier Provençal style that is pale coloured and fresh. Tavel can be enjoyed on its own or paired with salad, poultry, or hearty fish.
Lirac, on the other hand, was an eye-opener for me. It is one of the least known Crus, and even I didn't know much about it before arriving. Lirac appellation white wines are made primarily with varietals such as Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Roussanne, and Bourboulenc, and sometimes includes Marsanne, Viognier, or Picpoul. The white wines were fresh and clean, with some minerality and structure, and could be aged for a number of years. All-in-all, I was very impressed with the white wines from Lirac.
Overall, I was very happy with my visit to the Southern Rhône Valley. I learned many new things over the four days while also meeting some fine individuals who are shaping the future of the wines from Luberon, Ventoux, Cairanne, Costières de Nîmes, Tavel, and Lirac.
Tasting Notes:
VIGNOBLES & COMPAGNIE DOMAINE MÉJAN LES MUSES TAVEL 2017 - AC, Rhône, France (XD)
Blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Cinsault, 5% Mourvedre, 3% Syrah, and 2% Clairette from sandy soil, clay, and rolled pebbles, alluvial deposits. Medium+ intensity nose offers red fruit, red cherry, strawberry, and herbal aromas. The medium+ bodied palate is spicy with fresh acids and pleasing red berried aroma replays. Lightly tannic, dry, with some structure, and very good finish length. Score: 88 pts
VIGNOBLES & COMPAGNIE RÉSERVE DES CHASTELLES TAVEL 2017 - AC, Rhône, France (XD) - 12 €
Grenache and Syrah blend from gravel, clay and quartz pebbles soils. Medium-high intensity nose with plenty of red fruits - currant, strawberry, cherry and some red pepper nuances. It is full-bodied, dry and structured on the palate with candied red berry flavours. There's some tannic structure and the finish length is very good. Score: 89 pts
Agent: N/A
CHÂTEAU TRINQUEVEDEL TAVEL 2017 - AC, Rhône, France (#729947) (XD) - 12.5 €
Blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Clairette, Bourboulenc, and Mourvèdre, this has fruity medium+ intensity aromas of rhubarb and strawberry. It is medium-full bodied, dry and spicy on the palate with fresh acids and nice aroma replays joined by hints of orange. Structured with some tannins. Very good finish length. Score: 89 pts
CHÂTEAU TRINQUEVEDEL LES VIGNES D'EUGÈNE TAVEL 2014 - AC, Rhône, France (XD) - 15 €
Blend of Grenache, Clairette and Syrah from 80-85 year old vines and one-third oak aged, this has a subtle orange, red berry and spice nose with touches of floral. It is medium-full bodied and nicely integrated on the palate with balanced acids, and pretty rose floral and cherry characters. Somewhat structured and the finish length is very good. Holding up quite well at this age. Score: 89+ pts
CHÂTEAU D'AQUERIA LIRAC BLANC 2017 - AC, Rhône, France (XD) - 12 €
40% Grenache Blanc, 25% Bourboulenc, 16% Clairette, 12% Roussanne, and 7% Viognier from limestone scree soils. Open, fragrant and fresh with herbally, lemony, and anise aromas. Medium-bodied with a slightly oily texture. Nice aroma replays on the palate plus notable anise, fennel, and pear notes. There's some structure a nice chalky mineral mid-palate. Shows finesse on the finish, with excellent length. Score: 89 pts
CHÂTEAU D'AQUERIA TAVEL 2017 - AP, Rhône, France (#319368) (XD) - $23.95
45% Grenache, 20% Clairette, 15% Cinsault, 8% Mourvèdre, 6% Syrah, 4% Bourboulenc, and 2% Picpoul from sandy clayey hillsides. The subtle nose is fruity and a touch candied, offering red berry, cherry, currant, and citrus aromas. It's medium-full bodied with nicely balanced citrusy aroma replays. Acids are very good. The long finish is crisp and spicy with a fine mineral note. Score: 89 pts
DOMAINE COUDOULIS EVIDENCE LIRAC 2016 - AP, Rhône, France (XD) - 9 €
Blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre (15%), Carignan, and Cinsault. Medium-high intensity nose is meaty with floral, dark cherry, blackberry, licorice, and black spice aromas. The spicy medium+ bodied palate has nice dark cherry/berry and oak spice notes. Well-structured with refined tannins. Nicely balanced overall with good acidity. Finish length is very good. Score: 89 pts
OGIER LOU CAMINÉ LIRAC BLANC 2017 - AC, Rhône, France (XD)
First vintage of this wine. Blend of Clairette and Grenache Blanc from 5 to 80 year-old vines that was barrel-fermented and barrel-aged. It has medium-high intensity aromas that are clean and elegant with mineral, lemon/lime, herbs and anise notes, all of which come through on the medium+ bodied palate with hints of saline minerality. Acids are fresh and the finish length is excellent. Score: 90 pts
OGIER ETAMINES TAVEL 2017 - AC, Rhône, France (XD)
Pretty, medium-high intensity nose of strawberry, spice, currant, and cherry aromas. It is medium-full bodied with spicy aroma replays on the palate, fresh acids, and very good finish length. Score: 88 pts
DOMAINE DU VIEIL AVEN TAVEL 2017 - AC, Rhône, France (XD) - $18.70
Medium+ intensity nose is spicy with red currant, cherry, and strawberry aromas. The palate is full-ish with gentle tannins and juicy acids that support the nicely dry aroma replays. Very good finish length. Score: 88 pts
DOMAINE DES CARTERESSES TAVEL ROSÉ 2017 - AC, Rhône, France (#739474) (XD) - $18.95
The medium-high intensity nose is fresh has ripe aromas of strawberry, cherry, and rhubarb. It's medium-full bodied on the palate with a rounded mouthfeel. Touch candied cherry flavour, plus aroma replays on the flavour profile. Juicy acids, smooth tannins, and very good length on the finish. Score: 88 pts
CHÂTEAU DE MONTFAUCON COMTESSE MADELEINE LIRAC BLANC 2017 - AC, Rhône, France (XD) - 13.5 €
Just bottled. Blend of Marsanne (40%), Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Picpoul, and Viognier. Medium-high intensity aromas are fresh and ripe with white and yellow florals, and key lime pie. On the medium-bodied palate, it has nice, ripe aroma replays supported by bright and lively acids. Anise, herbs, and lime notes linger on the long finish. Barrel-fermented and aged, yet oak is very subtle. Should drink well for at least half a dozen years. Score: 89 pts
CHÂTEAU DE MONTFAUCON VIN DE MADAME LA COMTESSE LIRAC BLANC 2012 - AP, Rhône, France (XD)
Limited production. 100% Clairette barrel-fermented from a small 1.3 acre vineyard first planted in 1870 - one of the oldest in Rhône Valley. Complex, medium-high intensity nose is exotic and a touch oxidative with nutty, pear and fennel aromas. Spicy palate is still showing freshness with very nice aroma replays and some mineral notes adding complexity. Shows finesse on the long, intense finish. 2012 was the first vintage of this wine. Score: 91 pts
DOMAINE LAFOND ROC-ÉPINE LIRAC BLANC 2017 - AP, Rhône, France (XD) - 10 €
This blend of 50% Grenache Blanc, 30% Roussanne, and 20% Viognier that has medium+ intensity aromas of fennel, anise, lemony citrus, and herbs. Acids are fresh and bright on the medium-bodied palate with nice aroma replays on the flavour profile. Clean and crisp with hints of mineral on the long finish. Score: 88+ pts
DOMAINE LAFOND ROC-ÉPINE TAVEL 2017 - AP, Rhône, France (#950709) (XD) - 10 €
60% Grenache with equal parts Syrah and Cinsault. Medium-high intensity nose is pretty with freshly picked, ripe strawberry, rhubarb, and cherry aromas. The medium+ bodied palate is fleshy, a touch candied, but dry, with nice aroma replays. It has juicy acids, a spicy mid-palate, and very good finish length. Score: 88 pts
CHÂTEAU SÉGRIÈS LIRAC BLANC 2015 - AC, Rhône, France (XD) - 12 €
A blend of 50% Clairette, 30% Ugni Blanc, 10% Roussanne, 5% Bourboulenc, and 5% Picpoul that is 30% barrel-fermented. Subtle herbs, fennel, and lemon aromas. It is medium-full bodied and creamy with nice pear and herbals flavours. Crunchy fruit with fresh acidity. Finish length is very good. Score: 89 pts
CHÂTEAU SÉGRIÈS TAVEL 2016 - AC, Rhône, France (XD) - 12 €
Blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 10% Syrah, and 10% Clairette. Medium+ intensity nose offers cherry, strawberry, and currant aromas, with much of the same on the spicy, full-bodied palate. It has some tannic structure, while acids and finish length are both very good. Score: 89 pts
Friday, September 3, 2021
