Cave du Château de Chénas Coeur de Granit Moulin-à-Vent 2023 (Beaujolais) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Gamay from the Moulin-à-Vent Cru in Beaujolais that was featured as the Wine of the Month in the recent October 24 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection. It was also included in the feature story on wines to stock up on for the holidays!

It is produced by Cave du Château de Chénas, a cooperative winery based in the commune of Chénas, in northern Beaujolais near the border of southern Burgundy. The historic wine cooperative has its roots in a large vaulted cellar, dating back to 1730, which is among the largest in Beaujolais and naturally maintains a constant temperature of 13°C year-round. In 1821, the property and its cellar were acquired by Adrien Delahante, who subsequently built the present Château de Chénas in the style of a large Italian villa.

In 1934, a group of winegrowers led by founding President Louis Sylvestre purchased the château, cellar, and part of the surrounding vineyards, establishing the Cave du Château de Chénas cooperative. The cooperative also owns approximately 4.9 hectares of vineyards in Moulin-à-Vent and 0.25 hectares in Chénas. Initially, there were 40 winegrowers representing 44 hectares of vineyards. Today, more than 80 winegrowing families cultivate approximately 200 hectares, most of which are located on hillsides. Additionally, 180 members bring their grapes to the cooperative for vinification and marketing. In total, the cooperative produces more than 10,000 hectolitres of AOC wines, with the majority coming from the Chénas and Moulin-à-Vent Crus, while also producing smaller quantities from the other eight Beaujolais Crus.

This red wine is from the cooperative's Cœur de Granit (Heart of Granite) range, which features a selection of grapes from its oldest vines, producing smaller berries. Furthermore, wines in the Cœur de Granit range undergo longer vinification and ageing. To craft this Gamay, the grapes were grown in the Moulin-à-Vent Cru, where the homogeneous soils include pink granite, limestone, marl, and sandstone. It was traditionally vinified using semi-carbonic maceration and aged in stainless steel tanks to preserve the freshness and vibrant fruit character.

In 2023, the growing season in Beaujolais began with alternating cold, warm, and wet conditions over the first three months of the year, leading to budbreak on schedule without any bouts of frost. April and May alternated between cold and wet or hot and dry conditions, with successful flowering taking place in early June. Hot and sunny weather in June and July resulted in early véraison and expectations of an August harvest. However, August turned cool and wet before warm, sunny weather returned towards the end of the month, ultimately leading to an early harvest in September. Yields were up 20% over the previous year, and the vintage produced wines emphasizing purity of fruit, aromatics, and balance. Following a second consecutive outstanding vintage, let's see how this 2023 Gamay from the Beaujolais Cru of Moulin-à-Vent is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CAVE DU CHÂTEAU DE CHÉNAS COEUR DE GRANIT MOULIN-À-VENT 2023 - AOC, Beaujolais, France (#648477) (XD) - $23.95
100% Gamay Noir. The fresh, medium-high intensity nose has savoury herb aromas followed by hints of earthy red berry, strawberry, cran-cherry, currant, red plum, peppery spice, and cocoa notes. The light-to-mid-weighted palate is ripe, crunchy, and gently structured with delicious red berry, strawberry, cran-cherry, black cherry, currant, and spice flavours surrounding a core of savoury earth and cocoa. It has fresh and lively acidity, along with light, fine-grained tannins with good structure. Well-balanced throughout, while the long finish is savoury and juicy. Shows best at a slightly warmer temperature of 16°C and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other lovely wines by Cave du Château de Chénas can be ordered through their Agent - Vinexx.

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El Goru 38 Barrels Monastrell/Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 (Spain) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious, organic and vegan-friendly Monastrell (a.k.a. Mourvèdre) blended with Cabernet Sauvignon. It was featured on the cover and as part of the holiday stocking-up theme in the recent October 24 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

El Goru wines are produced by Ego Bodegas, a prominent winery located in Jumilla, Spain. Established in 2011 by husband-and-wife team of Santos Ortiz and Ioana Paunescu, the project was borne out of the partners' passion and effort. Although they started with limited financial resources, the couple had extraordinary talent for creating wines and coordinating the financial, marketing, and sales departments.

Santos, who is Spanish, and Ioana, who is originally from Romania, fell in love with a spectacular farm in the elevated area of Hoya Torres in Jumilla, locally known as the carpenter's place, surrounded by old vineyards planted to Monastrell. Their approach was to build a commercially viable wine business around three core concepts: Quality, Image, and Price. After two years of planning and hard work, they established Ego Bodegas, a wine brand based on a philosophy that is captured in three words: ego, talento, and infinito — or self, talent, and infinity — reflecting their passion, learning, and dreams without limits.

Today, Ego Bodegas has 35 hectares of vineyards, most of which are planted to native varieties, with a particular focus on Monastrell, a varietal exceptionally well adapted to the soil and climatic conditions of Jumilla. The dark, calcareous soils have good permeability and moisture-retention properties, helping the vines endure long periods of drought. The climate in Jumilla is continental and arid, influenced by the Mediterranean Sea to the east and the plateau of La Mancha to the west. Since the beginning, Santos and Ioana have taken a contemporary approach to winemaking, combining traditional methods with modern techniques. While Monastrell remains central to Ego Bodegas, the winery continues to innovate, expanding its portfolio to include wines made from other varieties, as well as blends that combine international grapes with Monastrell to create modern expressions of Jumilla.

Like the 2020 El Goru 38 Barrels I enjoyed early last year, this vintage is also primarily crafted with Monastrell (approx. 85%) and the balance Cabernet Sauvignon. The selected grapes were collected manually with great care, placed in small boxes and brought to the winery. It underwent a cold maceration for a week to extract the greatest amount of aromatics and colour, which was helped by using the pigeage method (punch-downs) for a controlled and regulated extraction. The wine was made exclusively and carefully from a selection of 38 barrels, in a combination of both French and American oak barrels. Malolactic fermentation took place in these 38 barrels, followed by ageing for 12 months in their temperature-controlled cellars.

Like the 2020 El Goru 38 Barrels I enjoyed early last year, this vintage is also primarily crafted with Monastrell (approximately 85%), with the balance being Cabernet Sauvignon. The selected grapes were harvested manually, carefully placed in small boxes, and brought to the winery. They underwent a week of cold maceration to extract maximum aromas and colour, with punch-downs (pigeage) used to help regulate extraction. The wine was made exclusively and carefully from a selection of 38 barrels, in a combination of both French and American oak barrels. Malolactic fermentation took place in these 38 barrels, followed by ageing for 12 months in their temperature-controlled cellars.

The 2021 growing season in Jumilla began with a cold and rainy spring, while summer was also cooler than usual. August brought higher temperatures, including a week of intense heat that challenged some varieties. Rainfall towards the end of harvest meant extra work in the vineyards, while northerly winds and favourable temperatures from late September to early October helped the grapes reach optimal ripeness and develop intense varietal flavours. From a cooler vintage, let's see how this 2021 Monastrell and Cabernet Sauvignon blend from Jumilla is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

EL GORU 38 BARRELS MONASTRELL/CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021 - Vegan, DO Jumilla, Spain (#41096) (XD) - $21.95
Organic. Mainly Monastrell with Cabernet Sauvignon in support, this has a fresh, medium-high intensity nose that offers ripe black fruits, blackberry, and black cherry aromas alongside purple fruit, and spice with savoury earth, and oak undertones. On the dry, medium+ weighted palate it is quite spicy with a delicious core of ripe black & purple fruits, blackberry, black cherry, plum, cedar oak, and savoury earth flavours in a slightly warming profile. Refreshing acids are crisp and juicy, while the refined tannins have a slightly grippy, chalky textured mouthfeel, with good structure. Ripe black fruits taper to cedar oak, smoke, and earth notes on the long, crisp finish. Give this highly recommended buy a slight chill and enjoy over the next 3-5 years. Recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other lovely wines by Ego Bodegas are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Tasca d'Almerita Regaleali Nero d'Avola 2023 (Sicily) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely, certified sustainable Nero d'Avola from Sicily that arrived at the LCBO last weekend in the October 24 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Tasca d'Almerita, one of Sicily's most renowned and influential winemaking families, whose history dates back to 1830, when brothers Lucio and Carmelo Mastrogiovanni Tasca purchased the Regaleali estate, encompassing approximately 1,200 hectares in central Sicily, and introduced modern agricultural technology to the Sicilian countryside. Since then, successive generations of the family have cared for this land and shared its bounty with passion.

In 1840, the dowry of Lucio's wife, Beatrice Lanza, included Villa Camastra, known today as Villa Tasca, which became the Palermo residence of the Tasca d'Almerita family and remains in family ownership today. In 1854, Regaleali was awarded the distinction of "model farm" for agriculture. At the time, growing grains and producing fodder were the estate's main activities, while vineyards occupied only a small portion of the land. In 1890, the vines at Regaleali were decimated by the phylloxera epidemic sweeping across Europe, prompting the creation of a special nursery at Villa Camastra to graft grapevines onto healthy American rootstock.

Tenuta Regaleali was reshaped in 1950, when the estate and its lands were redistributed as part of the Italian agricultural reform, reducing its size to approximately 500 hectares. This period also marked the beginning of its modern vineyard development, including Nero d'Avola vines planted at the San Lucio vineyard in 1954. Over the ensuing years, the family planted additional indigenous and international grape varieties while establishing new estates across Sicily.

Since 2001, the family business has been led by Alberto Tasca, representing the eighth generation of the family, with a vision of strengthening its longstanding commitment to quality and continuous experimentation. Tenuta Regaleali is an oasis tucked among the high, green hills of central Sicily and represents the history of an entire family. Today, Tenuta Regaleali spans nearly 600 hectares, encompassing 12 different soil types and six hills ranging from 450 to 850 metres above sea level, offering considerable diversity in growing conditions. All wines bearing the Regaleali name come from a single vineyard or multiple vineyards within the estate. In 2017, Tasca d'Almerita became certified under the VIVA/SOStain sustainability programme, and in 2023, it achieved B Corp certification.

This red wine is crafted from 100% Nero d'Avola grown at the family's Regaleali estate in the Contea di Sclafani DOC in central Sicily. It is one of the estate's historic wines, representing a legacy spanning 68 harvests of Nero d'Avola production. The grapes were harvested at the optimal point along their maturation curve to ensure elegance and achieve the perfect balance between austerity and fullness. Fermentation took place in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks at 26–28°C, with an average maceration period of 10 days, followed by complete malolactic fermentation. Half of the wine was aged in stainless steel tanks, while the other half spent 10 months in 300- and 600 L Slavonian oak barrels.

The 2023 growing season in Sicily began with challenges during flowering, as rainfall caused significant coulure, naturally reducing yields and concentrating the berries into fewer bunches. Frost was also a concern, with several distinct cold snaps during budbreak keeping vineyard managers on high alert. Climatic conditions were otherwise cool and classical, without any significant summer temperature spikes, allowing fresh aromatics to develop rather than concentrating on power. Harvest took place under mixed skies. Overall, the vintage produced wines of elegance, versatility and freshness, with good terroir expression. Let's see how this 2023 Nero d'Avola from Sicily is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TASCA D'ALMERITA REGALEALI NERO D'AVOLA 2023 - Sustainable, DOC Sicilia, Italy (#39660) (XD) - $18.95
Fresh, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose offers rustic, wild black cherry aromas mingling with spices, underbrush, and savoury earth, plus touches of brambly berry and leafy herbs. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it is ripe and impressively structured with delicious wild black cherry, spices, and earth flavours joined by oak accents and dried herbs. It has crisp, well-structured acidity, along with ripe, structured, and slightly youthful tannins. Really nicely balanced throughout with mineral notes coming through on the mid-palate and carrying into the long, savoury, and crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

One other lovely wine by Tasca d'Almerita is available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Vinexx.

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Domaine La Décelle Réserve Valréas Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2022 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Côtes du Rhône-Villages from Valréas in the Southern Rhône that arrived at the LCBO over the weekend in the October 24 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

The wines of Domaine La Décelle are produced by Maison LAVAU, a well-respected wine producer situated near the village of Sablet, at the foot of the Dentelles de Montmirail hills in the Southern Rhône Valley. The Lavau family's winemaking heritage dates back to the 19th century in Saint-Émilion. After returning to France from Tunisia in the 1960s, the family took charge of a small winemaking cellar in Sablet, at the heart of the Rhône Valley.

Maison LAVAU was established in 1965 by Jean-Guy Lavau and his wife Anne-Marie, and went on to become an important player in the local wine industry. Their sons, brothers Frédéric and Benoît Lavau, joined the family winery after completing their studies and took over the business in 2000 when their parents retired. In 2010, the brothers fell in love with the terroir at Domaine La Décelle and purchased the estate.

Domaine La Décelle is situated in the heart of the Enclave des Papes, a small part of the Vaucluse department situated in Drôme provençale, south of the village of Valréas. The 100-hectare estate has distinctive characteristics due to its latitude and altitude, creating unique climatic conditions that are ideal for producing structured and complex wines with great freshness. The vineyards encompass different sectors of Valréas, with elevations reaching up to 320 metres above sea level. The cooler climate and significant diurnal temperature variation help preserve freshness, while the southwest-facing vines benefit from abundant sunshine. The vineyards are planted on varied soil types, including clay-limestone and sandy soils, and are cultivated according to the principles of reasoned agriculture.

Like the 2017 Domaine La Décelle Réserve Valréas I enjoyed some years ago, this red wine is crafted with 50% Grenache and 50% Syrah grown at the estate on clay-limestone soils. It was traditionally vinified using rack-and-return (délestage) and regular pump-overs (remontage), followed by a relatively long 30-day maceration. The wine was then aged for 6 months in previously used French oak barrels.

In 2022, the growing season in the Southern Rhone was marked by extreme heat and drought conditions. Spring was very dry with only 50 mm of rain from March to May, while an early Summer was even dryer with hot and arid conditions. Welcoming rainfall in the middle of August saved the vines and helped produce red wines that are lush, balanced, supple, and lively. From a disease-free vintage that was the hottest and driest on record since 1950, and produced great wines, let's see how this 2022 Valréas Côtes du Rhône-Villages is tasting tonight...

The 2022 growing season in the Southern Rhône was marked by extreme heat and drought conditions. Spring was particularly dry, with only 50 mm of rainfall from March to May, while early summer brought further hot and arid conditions. Welcome rainfall in mid-August helped the vines recover and contributed to the production of red wines that are described as lush, balanced, supple and lively. The Despite being disease-free and the hottest and driest since 1950, the 2022 vintage has proven excellent, with remarkable balance and quality. Let's see how this 2022 Valréas Côtes du Rhône-Villages is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE LA DÉCELLE RÉSERVE VALRÉAS CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES 2022 - AOC, France (#14391) (XD) - $16.95
This 50/50 blend of Grenache and Syrah has a delicate, medium+ intensity nose offering ripe dark fruit, black raspberry, blackberry, plum, black pepper, meaty, savoury earth, and stony mineral aromas. On the dry, medium+ bodied, dense, and well-structured palate it has delicious dark fruit, black raspberry, blackberry, black cherry, black pepper, meaty, and earthy/stony mineral flavours joined by hints of lavender/violet and garrigue adding interest and complexity. It has fresh and lively acidity, along with smooth, supple, and well-structured tannins. Juicy and well-balanced throughout, with dark berry, peppery spice, meaty, and smoky mineral notes lingering on the long, juicy finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 5+ years. Score: 89 pts

Other delicious wines by Domaine La Décelle can be ordered through their Agent - Marchands des Amériques.

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Lealtanza Reserva 2005 (Rioja) - Wine Review

After enjoying the excellent 2019 Altanza Reserva over the weekend, for tonight's red wine review we go back in time to revisit an earlier vintage of this wine – the 2005, which I purchased from the May 26, 2012 LCBO VINTAGES Release, where it was featured on the cover and known as Lealtanza Reserva. The tasting note in the catalogue suggested that it was best enjoyed by 2025.

Tasting Note:

LEALTANZA RESERVA 2005 - DOCa Rioja, Spain (#276097) (XD) - $19.95
100% Tempranillo aged for 18 months in French oak, followed by 18 months in bottle prior to release. The medium+ to medium-high intensity nose has mature, tertiary aromas of dark red cherry, savoury earth, and wood with hints of sweet baking spice and red plum. The medium+ bodied palate is dry and savoury with earth and wood spice notes flecked with dried red cherry and floral. Acids are still quite fresh, while the textured tannins have integrated very nicely. Gains weight on the juicy, textured mid-palate, while faint remnants of sweet/dried red fruits taper to savoury earth and barrel spice notes on the long and juicy finish. Still exceptionally balanced and an enjoyable experience. Score: 90+ pts

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Altanza Reserva 2019 (Rioja) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a excellent, vegan-friendly Tempranillo from Rioja, Spain, that arrived at the LCBO as the Wine of the Month in last weekend's October 10th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Bodegas Altanza, a modern winery founded in 1998 by a group of winegrowers committed to producing premium Tempranillo wines that combine Rioja's winemaking heritage with a distinctive, contemporary style. Altanza is located in the higher elevation town of Fuenmayor, in the heart of Rioja Alta, one of the region's most prestigious wine-growing areas.

Rioja Alta is renowned for producing elegant, age-worthy wines, benefiting from a distinctive climate, diverse soils, and long-standing viticultural traditions. Altanza's philosophy is built around four defining pillars: Estate Vineyards, Tradition and Innovation, Tempranillo Expertise, and French Oak Ageing. The winery combines careful estate vineyard management with modern winemaking techniques to craft wines with complete control from vine to bottle, while expressing the character of the region. Tempranillo, Rioja's flagship grape variety, lies at the heart of Altanza's identity, while French oak has been central to its ageing philosophy since the winery's founding. Its cellar houses nearly 6,000 oak barrels, supporting the production of refined wines with complexity, structure, and ageing potential.

Today, the Valvarés Estate in Fuenmayor is home to the winery, surrounded by approximately 200 hectares of vines planted primarily to Tempranillo and Sauvignon Blanc, along with 8 hectares of olive groves dedicated to producing 100% Arbequina extra virgin olive oil. The vineyards are divided into 10 parcels, each selected for its distinctive geographical orientation, soil composition, and microclimate, helping to capture the diversity of the estate. Sustainability is also an integral part of the winery's operations. Altanza works to reduce its environmental impact and preserve the surrounding landscape, notably through its own geothermal energy system, which provides renewable energy, and an on-site water treatment facility. All of its wines are vegan-friendly.

This Reserva comes from Altanza's Esenciales ("Essentials") range, which sits at the heart of the winery's portfolio and includes wines that showcase its signature Rioja style. Positioned between the Crianza and Gran Reserva in the range, the Reserva emphasizes the balance, elegance, and character that define the winery's approach. The Esenciales wines are among Altanza's most recognized and best-selling offerings.

I've had the pleasure of tasting previous vintages of this wine, including the 2016 Altanza Reserva three years ago. Made from 100% Tempranillo, it is vinified using a combination of traditional Rioja practices and modern winemaking techniques. The wine spends 18 months ageing in French oak barrels, followed by a further three months in 22-hectolitre Allier French oak foudres. This extended maturation allows the oak and fruit to integrate while adding complexity and depth.

The 2019 growing season in Rioja was declared a perfect year. It began with a relatively cold spring, with enough rainfall and occasional frost, resulting in irregular flowering, loose and well-aerated bunches with fewer berries, and lower-than-average yields. Summer was warm and stable throughout, with little disease pressure. Rainfall during the harvest period refreshed the vines, helping produce grapes with fully ripe skins and good acidity levels. The resulting wines show depth and power, balanced by finely textured, rounded tannins. From an excellent vintage, let's see how this 2019 Tempranillo Rioja from Spain is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ALTANZA RESERVA 2019 - Vegan, DOCa Rioja, Spain (#208223) (XD) - $22.95
Crafted with 100% Tempranillo, this has a medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that offers a fine mix of sandalwood, sweet oak spice, and cinnamon mingling with red cherry and maturing hints of dried rose, dried cherry, balsamic, and savoury earth. On the dry, medium-full to full-bodied palate it has lovely, complex sandalwood, leather, savoury earth, balsamic, red cherry, rose floral, cinnamon, and sweet spice flavours in a nicely balanced and slightly maturing profile. Acids are juicy and succulent, while the smooth, elegant tannins are well-integrated. Gently grippy on the mid-palate, while earthy oak, sweet spice, cinnamon, and dried cherry/floral notes linger on the very long, elegant, and juicy finish. Could age further, but is very enjoyable now. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Other lovely wines by Altanza can be ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Estévez Versos de Valtuille Mencía 2024 (Spain) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Mencía from the DO Bierzo appellation in Spain that made its debut at the LCBO over the long weekend as part of the October 10th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Estévez Bodegas y Viñedos, a small, family-owned winery with a winemaking heritage dating back to the late 19th century. While the modern winery was established by Helios Estévez in 2015, its roots go back to his great-grandfather, Ramón, who acquired vineyards in Valtuille de Abajo, Bierzo, in northwestern Spain, in the late 1800s using money earned while working in Brazil.

In the aftermath of the Spanish Civil War, the family settled in Mexico. Helios later emigrated to Mexico to join his father, who had been exiled there. During his time in Mexico, Helios worked in the vineyards while developing a strong desire to return to Bierzo and continue his family's winemaking heritage. In 2015, that dream became a reality with the help of his wife and four children, as they established the family venture in the small village of Valtuille de Abajo.

The focus at Estévez Bodegas y Viñedos is on caring for the old vineyards of Valtuille de Abajo. The winery works with six small, distinctive vineyard plots planted primarily with Mencía and Godello. Each offers its own characteristics in terms of soil composition, elevation and sun exposure, and all are tended to by hand. Along with three village-level wines, including this Mencía, Helios is particularly focused on producing single-vineyard wines that express the terroir of each site.

This red wine belongs to the village-level tier of Estévez's Versos de Valtuille range, which translates to "Verses from Valtuille." The name refers to the poetry Helios Estévez wrote while living in Mexico, expressing his longing for his ancestral home in Valtuille de Abajo, in Spain's Bierzo region. In much the same way, the wines of Versos de Valtuille are born in the heart of the village and seek to express its landscape, traditions, and history.

To craft this 100% Mencía, the grapes were selected from a blend of old vineyards in Valtuille de Abajo, with vines averaging 75 years of age and grown at elevations of 500–550 metres above sea level. The vineyards feature a diverse range of soils, including clay, slate, limestone, and pebbles. At the winery, the grapes underwent wild fermentation using indigenous yeasts in 7,500-litre French oak foudres, and remained in oak for 8 months of maturation.

In 2024, Spain's growing season had its share of highs and lows, with exceptionally heavy rainfall presenting significant challenges in some regions. However, the impact varied across the country. Situated in the province of Castile and León in northwestern Spain, Bierzo experiences a mix of cool Atlantic and warmer continental influences. Despite the challenges, the 2024 vintage produced fresh, precise wines in Bierzo. Let's see how this 2024 Mencía from Bierzo is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ESTÉVEZ VERSOS DE VALTUILLE MENCÍA 2024 - DO Bierzo, Spain (#50750) (XD) - $22.95
The fresh, medium+ to medium-high intensity nose is ripe with wild dark berry, blackberry, black cherry, mulberry, and wild herb aromas layered over notes of savoury, earthy mineral, and spice. The crunchy, mid-weighted palate is dry with delicious wild dark berry, blackberry, wild herbs, black cherry, earthy mineral, and spice flavours in a clean, well-balanced profile. Acids are fresh and juicy, while the ripe tannins are smooth, refined, and gently grippy. Savoury, stony, and earthy notes linger on the long and juicy finish. Should drink nicely to the end of the decade and is a highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

One ultra-premium wine by Estévez Bodegas y Viñedos is available in very small quantities at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - DB Wine & Spirits.

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Château Tanesse Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux 2022 (France) - Wine Review

Happy Thanksgiving! Tonight's red wine review is an excellent red from the Right Bank appellation of Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux that arrived at the LCBO in this weekend's October 10 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

This red wine is produced by Vignobles Gonfrier, a prominent, family-owned wine producer whose journey began in 1962, when Paul Gonfrier and his wife, Marie-José, left their native Algeria to establish a wine business in Lestiac-sur-Garonne, in the Gironde department of Bordeaux.

The Gonfrier family's three sons – Pierre, Philippe, and Éric – grew up around the family enterprise, with Philippe becoming involved in managing the property at a very early age and Éric completing his first vinification in 1985, at the age of 23. In 1998, Philippe and Éric consolidated their wine activities, including their vineyard acquisitions, under the name Vignobles Gonfrier. Today, the group has a portfolio of more than 20 châteaux, state-of-the-art winemaking equipment and facilities, and vineyard operations spanning more than 1,000 hectares.

Today, Vignobles Gonfrier has more than 20 châteaux throughout Bordeaux and favours top-quality wines that express their terroir, with winemaking serving to ensure wine quality and client satisfaction. With a commitment to the environment, the group's estate vineyards are certified to High Environmental Value Level 3 (HVE3), while Vignobles Gonfrier is also in the process of converting a portion of its vineyards to organic agriculture. The group is further committed to a Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) approach and is certified by EcoVadis. The children of Philippe and Éric represent the third generation of the Gonfrier family now involved in the wine business. Thibault and Paul, the respective sons of Philippe and Éric, are involved in overseeing the family's vineyards, including Château Tanesse, which was acquired by Vignobles Gonfrier in 2004.

Château Tanesse is situated in the Langoiran district within the appellation of Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux. The appellation is nestled in the Grandes Côtes region, to the east of and along the Garonne River. The charterhouse that is Château Tanesse was built by the Tanesse family during the second half of the 18th century and is located on a high hillock among sloping vineyards. The property's 30 hectares of vineyards surround the historic estate and sit atop very old foundations, overlooking Langoiran's medieval 13th-century castle and offering panoramic views that stretch from the edge of the Sauternais to the outskirts of Bordeaux, following the meandering Garonne River.

Like the 2020 Château Tanesse I enjoyed last year, this red wine is crafted with 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc that was grown in the vineyards surrounding the property. The vines average 25 years old and are planted on gravelly and clayey-gravelly slopes atop a calcareous subsoil. To craft this wine, the vines were trained using traditional Bordeaux-style vine training - with two canes and a flat arch. In the vineyard, there was controlled grassing down of the vine rows and/or mechanical working of the soil to improve the soils' vitality and biodiversity. Manual "green harvesting" was also performed in order for homogeneous distribution and proper aeration of the grape bunches, while harvest at the end of the growing season was performed mechanically. Upon arriving at the winery, the grapes were underwent destemming, crushing, and vatting, with fermentation taking place in temperature-controlled, stainless-steel tanks. Due to the terroir's quality, it also underwent prolonged maceration to extract tannins. The wine was aged for 12 months in French oak barrels.

In 2022, the growing season in Bordeaux was marked by heat and dry conditions, following a relatively dry winter and early spring growth. Spring frosts and June hailstorms damaged some vineyards, while July and August brought exceptionally hot, dry conditions. Older vines generally fared better thanks to their deeper root systems, and cool nights helped preserve freshness and acidity. Wildfires in parts of the region raised concerns about smoke taint, although the impact was limited. The heat accelerated ripening, leading to an unusually early harvest and reduced yields, but fruit quality was excellent. Merlot and Cabernet Franc performed particularly well, while Cabernet Sauvignon also excelled, albeit with the potential for higher alcohol levels. From what is regarded as a legendary vintage, let's see how this 2022 Bordeaux red wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU TANESSE CADILLAC CÔTES DE BORDEAUX 2022 - Sustainable, AOC, France (#666628) (XD) - $20.95
Blend of 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc. The medium-high to highly aromatic nose exudes richly concentrated and complex aromas of ripe dark fruit, black currant, black cherry, cassis, black plum, blackberry, dried herbs, and fine oak spice, plus whiffs of graphite, wet earth, and mulberry. On the dry, full-bodied palate it is richly structured and concentrated with lovely ripe dark fruit, blackberry, black cherry, cassis, currant, wood spice, graphite, savoury earth, and dried herbal flavours. It has juicy, structured acidity, along with ripe, richly textured, well-structured, mouth-coating tannins. A salty mineral mid-palate leads to smoke and graphite notes on the long, savoury, dusty textured, and very juicy finish. Should drink nicely for at least a decade, if not more. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Other lovely wines by Vignobles Gonfrier can be ordered through their Agent - Sylvestre Wines & Spirits.

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September 26, 2026 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: Beyond Cabernet

Here are my top wine picks from the September 26, 2026 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection (digital edition here), where “Beyond Cabernet” is the feature story of another relatively small release. In all, there are only 65 wines included, with almost everything priced under $50, including 50 wines under $30. As a result, most wines have relatively approachable price points, and the quality is good, with many enjoyable wines. At this point, everything should be readily available for purchase both online and in stores at LCBO outlets across Ontario.

We’ll begin with the feature story, “Beyond Cabernet,” which aims to turn your attention to wines crafted with grapes other than Cabernet Sauvignon. Of the seventeen wines featured as part of the thematic, five are included among my top wine picks. At the top of the list is a fine Rioja from Spain crafted with Tempranillo, which is also one of the Wines of the Month in this release. Next up is a lovely, locally crafted Shiraz from Niagara, followed by a Shiraz from McLaren Vale in Australia, which happens to be the other Wine of the Month. There are also a pair of Chianti Classico wines from Tuscany, both of which are primarily crafted with Sangiovese.

My top red wine recommendations from the main release begin in British Columbia with a red crafted from 46% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 18% Cabernet Franc, followed by a 100% Cabernet Franc from Niagara-on-the-Lake. From Italy, the Sicilian red is a 50/50 blend of Nero d’Avola and Syrah, while the Rosso di Montalcino from Tuscany is 100% Sangiovese. From Australia, the Cabernet Sauvignon actually includes 5% Petit Verdot, 5% Malbec, and 3% Cabernet Franc, while the wine from Padthaway is 100% Shiraz. Other recommended red wines include a fine Pinot Noir from Chile, a Syrah from New Zealand, and a Garnacha from Spain.

Among my top white wine picks, the only blend is a Veneto Bianco made with 84% Garganega, 10% Chardonnay, and 6% Riesling. At the top of the mono-varietal whites is an excellent, off-dry Riesling from the Beamsville Bench in Niagara. Also on the local front, the Cave Spring Chardonnay was raised entirely in oak, while the Leaning Post Chardonnay was raised entirely in concrete. One of the more interesting white wines in this release is a White Malbec – it was harvested early and pressed at very low pressure to avoid extracting colour from the tannins. Also in this release is a fine Chardonnay from Burgundy, a Vermentino from Tuscany, a Godello from Spain, and a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand.

Enjoy my top wine recommendations from this release! Cheers!

Red Wine:

• SAN ALEJANDRO EVODIA GARNACHA 2023 - Spain (#23914) (XD) - $16.95
• SISTER'S RUN EPIPHANY SHIRAZ 2022 - McLaren Vale, South Australia (#269464) (XD) - $17.95  88+ pts  wine review
• JIP JIP ROCKS SINGLE VINEYARD SHIRAZ 2024 - Padthaway, South Australia (#673897) (XD) - $17.95  89 pts  wine review
• XANADU CIRCA 77 CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2023 - Margaret River, Western Australia (#18344) (XD) - $18.95
• TRINITY HILL SYRAH 2022 - Hawke's Bay, North Island, New Zealand (#194274) (XD) - $21.95
• FRESCOBALDI PERANO CHIANTI CLASSICO 2022 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#10360) (XD) - $24.95  90 pts  wine review
• BERONIA VIÑAS VIEJAS 2022 - DOCa Rioja, Spain (#16587) (XD) - $24.95  91 pts  wine review

• MONTES ALPHA SPECIAL CUVÉE PINOT NOIR 2023 - DO Zapallar, Aconcagua Costa, Chile (#19288) (XD) - $24.95  91 pts  wine review
• FIRRIATO SANTAGOSTINO 30TH ANNIVERSARY BAGLIO SORÌA 2020 - DOC Sicilia, Italy (#291369) (XD) - $24.95  92 pts  wine review
• FATTORIA DEI BARBI ROSSO DI MONTALCINO 2023 - DOC, Tuscany, Italy (#397430) (XD) - $29.95
• JACKSON-TRIGGS NIAGARA ESTATE GRAND RESERVE SHIRAZ 2022 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#54135) (XD) - $29.95
• CARPINETO RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2020 - Sustainable, DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#47118) (XD) - $32.95  91 pts  wine review
• ANDREW PELLER SIGNATURE SERIES CABERNET FRANC 2023 - Sustainable, VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (#53233) (XD) - $49.95
• BLACK HILLS NOTA BENE 2022 - BC VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada (#17727) (XD) - $74.95

White Wine:

• ARTESANO DE ARGENTO AGRELO VINEYARD ORGANIC WHITE MALBEC 2026 - Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina (#37223) (XD) - $14.95  88+ pts  wine review
• PADDY BORTHWICK SAUVIGNON BLANC 2025 - Wairarapa, North Island, New Zealand (#361220) (XD) - $19.95
• AQUILAIA VERMENTINO 2025 - DOC Maremma Toscana, Italy (#49632) (XD) - $21.95
• BODEGAS MERAYO GODELLO 2024 - DO Bierzo, Spain (#50937) (XD) - $21.95
• CAVE SPRING ESTATE GROWN CHARDONNAY 2024 - Sustainable, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#256552) (XD) - $24.95  90+ pts  wine review
• LEANING POST THE FIFTY CHARDONNAY 2025 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#578864) (XD) - $26.95
• THIRTY BENCH SMALL LOT WOOD POST VINEYARD RIESLING 2024 - Sustainable, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#359760) (D) - $28.95
• TEDESCHI GA.RY 2023 - IGT Veneto Bianco, Italy (#50568) (XD) - $29.95  90+ pts  wine review
• MAISON CHAMPY PERNAND-VERGELESSES BLANC 2023 - AOC, Burgundy, France (#39801) (XD) - $61.95

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Domaine Le Clos Jordanne Le Grand Clos Chardonnay 2023 and Pinot Noir 2023 (Niagara) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of excellent, premium wines from Niagara that arrived as part of the feature on "Local Wines You'll Love" from Ontario in the recent September 12 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Both of these wines are produced by Domaine Le Clos Jordanne (DLCJ), a unique Franco-Canadian winery project that was established in 2000 as a partnership between the Boisset Family in Burgundy and Ontario-based Vincor Canada. The goal of this joint venture was to establish a 'domaine' in Ontario's Niagara Peninsula and produce ultra-premium Canadian VQA wines from Burgundy's classic grape varieties – Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

The first wines were introduced to the marketplace in 2007, with Thomas Bachelder as the original winemaker. He developed the brand's signature style around cool-climate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, low intervention, and terroir expression. The wines were crafted using sustainable winemaking practices, with a focus on delivering the best and most authentic expression of Burgundian-style wines through the lens of Niagara terroir. This approach led to international recognition and critical acclaim.

In 2016, the original Le Clos Jordanne project was paused before being revived in 2019 by Arterra Wines Canada in a new partnership with Thomas. After years of nomadic winemaking, the brand established a permanent home in 2024 by opening the Domaine Le Clos Jordanne winery at the former Angel's Gate property on the Beamsville Bench sub-appellation in the heart of the Niagara Peninsula. Today, DLCJ uses innovative New World practices combined with time-honoured Burgundian techniques, such as harvesting and sorting the grapes by hand. Every step of the process, from vineyard to bottle, receives careful consideration. Alongside Thomas, the winemaking team consists of Phillip Brown (Associate Winemaker) and Kerri Crawford (Assistant Winemaker).

These wines form Le Clos Jordanne's top-tier "Le Grand Clos" range, which is their mission to hone in on the "filet mignon" of the Clos Jordanne vineyard and their finest expression of the Jordan Bench terroir. Le Clos Jordanne's estate vineyard is located about 14 km east of the winery on a premium parcel of the Jordan Bench, on the first rise from the plain, a natural plateau near the slope of the Niagara Escarpment. The vineyard features limestone-laced silt and clay glacial soils, which are known for bringing intensely focused fruit, minerality, and ageability to the resulting wines. Both the Le Grand Clos Chardonnay and Le Grand Clos Pinot Noir come from blocks located on the western side of the vineyard – a happenstance of aspect, altitude, drainage, and geology. The Chardonnay is from Block 1, while the Pinot Noir is from Blocks 3 and 7.

The vineyards are farmed both traditionally and sustainably in order to preserve the natural balance of the vines and maintain the parcel's terroir specifics and quality of fruit. Each vine is tended to by hand, from pruning through to harvest, with the vines pruned to either a single- or double-Guyot cane system. Some of the tasks in the vineyard include leaf stripping, which takes place on the eastern side of the vine, exposing the clusters to more sun and airflow, promoting healthy ripening and helping to prevent disease. The soil in the vineyard is managed to nurture and maintain a natural level of microbiological life. Every other row is cultivated, alternating yearly, leaving a varied cover crop in the remaining rows. This creates competition in the root system while allowing the topsoil to remain loose and aerobic. Each year, every second row of the soil is broken up (deep-ripped) in order to aerate the soil structure and help avoid compaction.

To craft this Chardonnay, hand-harvesting began slowly and meticulously on October 7, picking only the best bunches. The fruit was whole-bunch pressed, and the full tank of free-run juice was racked into French oak barrels, where it would remain for the next 18 months. The juice underwent wild yeast fermentation, followed by malolactic fermentation on its lees. During this process, Thomas, Kerri, and Phillip would go through each individual barrel, watching the process slowly unfold, and nearing the end of élevage, a selection of 33 barrels, seven of them being first fills, were blended and bottled.

To craft this Pinot Noir, the grapes were hanging beautifully with thick skins and great flavours when it was decided to hand-harvest on October 2 due to unseasonably warm weather and a heatwave in the short-range forecast. After hand-sorting and destemming, the grapes were placed into multiple fermentation tanks, separated by individual blocks, and allowed to naturally warm as the wild yeast began the fermentation process. After about a month, with daily pump-overs or punch-downs, the ferment was complete and the free-run wine was placed into 48 barrels, a combination of both first-fill and previous-fill barrels. After a fairly long period of ageing in barrel, the final wine was selected from 19 barrels, four of them being first fills, and then blended and bottled.

In 2023, the growing season in Niagara was a pretty classic vintage for the region, with no major curveballs. It began with a slightly mild winter followed by a warm spring, which meant early budbreak. Summer featured occasional heatwaves, along with big thunderstorms, which meant vigilant viticultural practices were needed. Harvest time arrived hard and fast with a beautiful, dry, and warm fall, with all the grapes harvested and processed within a very short 22-day window, ending on October 24. There were a handful of extra-long days and a few sleepless nights, but the passionate crew worked tirelessly to give the fruit and wines the attention and love they demanded and deserved. From a great vintage, let's see how these 2023 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines from Niagara are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

DOMAINE LE CLOS JORDANNE LE GRAND CLOS CHARDONNAY 2023 - VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#184549) (XD) - $55.00
Screw cap. Lovely, rich, and layered aromas of medium-high intensity deliver perfectly ripe apple and pear notes nuanced with vanilla, citrus, oak spice, butter, and mealy complexity. On the dry, full-bodied palate it is rich and flavourful with lovely orchard fruit and stone fruit, apple, pear, lemon citrus, and melon joined by oak spice, vanilla, and butter flavours in a complex profile. Impressively textured with an almost chalky mouthfeel. Some leesy notes add further complexity on the mid-palate. Lemon citrus and apple notes taper to savoury with leesy mineral, gentle oak spice, and vanilla notes on the exceptionally long finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93+ pts

DOMAINE LE CLOS JORDANNE LE GRAND CLOS PINOT NOIR 2023 - VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#184564) (XD) - $55.00
Screw cap. The medium-high intensity nose has crushed ripe raspberry and spice aromas with oak accents, plus whiffs of black cherry, earthy mushroom, beet root, and clove add complexity. The weighty, medium+ bodied has a nice, chalky textured mouthfeel and fresh acidity. It's dry and ripe with delicious dark raspberry, earthy mushroom, beet root, oak spice flavours, plus some notes of clove , white pepper, and stony mineral. It has grainy, chalky textured tannins with good structure and tension. Dark raspberry and spice notes taper to savoury, stony minerals on the long, chalky textured finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

A couple of wines by Domaine Le Clos Jordanne are available as VINTAGES Essentials at the LCBO, while the full range of wines can be ordered direct from the winery in Niagara or through Arterra Wines Canada.

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Tapiz Alta Collection San Pablo Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2023 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely, high-altitude, single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon from the Uco Valley that was featured as a Hand-Picked Gift in the recent August 29 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Like the lovely 2023 Tapiz Alta Collection San Pablo Vineyard Malbec I enjoyed a few months ago, this red wine is produced by Fincas Patagónicas, one of Argentina's most prominent wine producers. Fincas Patagónicas was established in 2003 by Patricia Ortiz with the goal of crafting exceptional wines from Argentina's most distinctive terroirs. The winemaking philosophy combines traditional methods with innovative techniques to create wines from high-altitude vineyards in Mendoza and along the Atlantic coast of Patagonia that truly express the unique terroir of each region.

Fincas Patagónicas has three winery projects in Argentina — Zolo, Tapiz, and Wapisa. Tapiz is located in the heart of the San Pablo Geographical Indication (GI), within the Tunuyán department of the Uco Valley, Mendoza. Situated at 4,600 feet above sea level, the estate is home to one of Mendoza's highest-elevation vineyards. At Tapiz, sustainable winemaking traditions are combined with modern innovation at its state-of-the-art winery, which was constructed in 2016 and is surrounded by estate vineyards. Under Patricia's guidance, Tapiz has been a pioneer in the region and played a role in the development of the San Pablo GI. The San Pablo GI benefits from extremes of altitude, temperature, and soil heterogeneity, allowing for the creation of full-bodied and concentrated wines that are also elegant and balanced.

Tapiz is committed to environmentally conscious practices and to producing wines that faithfully express their unique terroir. Today, the wines are crafted by the celebrated winemaking team of Fabián Valenzuela and famed Bordeaux winemaker Jean-Claude Berrouet, who was the winemaker at Pétrus for 44 vintages. The name "Tapiz" is Spanish for tapestry, and the label and capsule depict the different components that come together to create wine, including high-altitude fruit, the land, the sun, and the workers. Thus, Tapiz represents a beautiful tapestry of terroir and innovation. Through her wineries, Patricia is also dedicated to giving back to the environment through sustainable practices while encouraging responsible practices among staff, suppliers, and customers.

This red wine is crafted with 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grown in the San Pablo Vineyard surrounding the winery. The estate vineyard is situated at 4,600 feet above sea level, and the 16-year-old vines were sustainably farmed. To vinify the wine, the grapes underwent a cold pre-maceration at 8˚C for 5 days to extract colour and aromas. The wine was then fermented in stainless steel tanks at approximately 28˚C for 14 days before resting on its lees for 16 days. It was subsequently aged in French oak barrels for 12 months, with 15% of the barrels being first-use and the remainder second- and third-use.

The 2023 vintage in Argentina was defined by multiple frosts, which greatly reduced yields in most parts of the country. However, higher-elevation sites with natural slopes fared better as the cold air moved to lower areas. Spring eventually turned warm and dry, leading to the hottest Argentine summer since 1961 and historic drought conditions. With lighter fruit loads, the grapes ripened more quickly than average, resulting in an earlier harvest. Despite the heat and drought, the low yields concentrated flavours, while the dry conditions kept disease at bay. From a vintage with high expectations for red wines from high-altitude vineyards, let's see how this 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon from the Uco Valley is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TAPIZ ALTA COLLECTION SAN PABLO VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2023 - Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina (#403345) (XD) - $20.95
The medium-high intensity nose offers ripe black fruits, blackberry, black plum, and cedar oak aromas followed hints of black currant, cassis, and grilled herbs. On the dry, medium+ to medium-full bodied palate has delicious, ripe black fruits, black currant, blackberry, black plum, and oak spice flavours, along with touches of graphite, and grilled herbs. It has clean, fresh acidity, alongside finely textured and firm tannins with good structure that will benefit from a few years in the cellar. It's well-balanced throughout with black currant, cassis, and cedar oak notes, plus hints of graphite lingering on the long, slightly youthful finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

The aforementioned Malbec is available at the LCBO, along with another Malbec, while the full range of Fincas Patagónicas wines can be ordered through their Agent - DB Wine & Spirits.

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La Nerthe Les Cassagnes Côtes-du-Rhône Villages 2023 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent, organic GSM blend from the Côtes du Rhône-Villages appellation of the Southern Rhône Valley. It arrived at the LCBO in the August 15th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and was featured as a Great Wine for Takeout Night, ideally paired with takeout burgers.

It is produced by Domaines Richard, a winemaking family passionate about wine since 1892. The Richard family's expertise has been passed down through the generations and is rooted in the constant pursuit of perfection from vine to glass. Since 1960, the Richard family has drawn inspiration from the major wine regions of the Rhône Valley, Bordeaux, and Beaujolais to craft wines with many expressions that reflect the richness and diversity of their grape varieties.

In 1985, Domaines Richard acquired Château La Nerthe, a historic and renowned estate situated in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. In 1994, Domaine de la Renjarde was acquired and would go on to become Les Cassagnes de La Nerthe, just 15 km north of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The vineyards of Les Cassagnes are situated in the named village appellation of Massif d'Uchaux, and are composed of three terraces, the highest of which overlaps with the surrounding Mediterranean forest, while garrigue (thyme, rosemary, laurels, evergreen oaks, olive trees, and genista) is found everywhere.

The Les Cassagnes vineyards are made up of 50 hectares in Sérignan-du-Comtat, along with another 20 hectares in Mondragon that were acquired a short time ago. While these two vineyards share proximity and similarities, they are also complementary. The historic vineyard in Sérignan-du-Comtat is situated at the level of the Rhône River, only 70 metres above sea level, while the newly integrated plots in Mondragon are about 200 metres above sea level. In Sérignan-du-Comtat, the vineyard is a succession of large terraces, while in Mondragon it is a mosaic of 38 small plots with their own micro-terroirs, separated by wooded patches. While both vineyards are rich in red sands and siliceous clay, the Mondragon plots seem richer in limestone, with many flat white stones visible on the surface. The vines also seem to be planted directly on rock, a somewhat rare occurrence in the Southern Rhône Valley.

The philosophy at Les Cassagnes de La Nerthe is focused on nature. With a commitment to preserving the environment, terroir, health of consumers, and the teams, the Les Cassagnes vineyard has been certified organic since 2013. In nature, the synergy between the sown plants and the soil microorganisms allows restructuring and enrichment of the soils, especially in organic matter, which is beneficial to the cultivation of the vine. The abundance of plants on the ground also provides a refuge for birds, small rodents, small herbivores, and insects, which promotes a balanced ecosystem and natural regulation of certain insect pests of the vine. By implementing forest hedges, they believe this will help with climate change, keep the plots cool, and protect them from hard-blowing winds. They have also started having sheep graze in the vineyards.

This red wine is crafted using a blend of 55% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 4% Mourvèdre, and 1% other varieties. The grapes were grown organically at La Nerthe's "Les Cassagnes" vineyards within the communes of Sérignan-du-Comtat and Mondragon. The vineyards are planted at altitudes up to 182 metres above sea level, featuring multiple microclimates and soils composed of poor sand, clay, and calcareous rocks that provide natural filtration. The name Les Cassagnes means oak trees and refers to the green oak forest that surrounds the vineyards.

To vinify this wine, the grapes were hand-harvested and sorted in the vineyard. Upon arriving at the winery, the grapes were lightly crushed, with several daily pump-overs, to gently extract colour and tannins. The three main varieties were co-fermented over a long maceration of 3–4 weeks. After fermentation, the final blend was aged on fine lees in stainless steel tanks for 12 months before bottling.

In 2023, the growing season in the Southern Rhône began with a dry and windy winter with episodes of Mistral winds, followed by a wet spring with rain that provided the water needed for the growing period. While summer temperatures were hot, water stress was not critical and there was no disease in the vineyards. A final strong heatwave led to harvest beginning at the end of August and ending at the beginning of October, with the end results being generous red grapes that produced lovely, balanced wines. From a good vintage for vines grown on clay soils beneath rolled pebbles in the Southern Rhône, let's see how the 2023 Côtes du Rhône-Villages red wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LA NERTHE LES CASSAGNES CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE VILLAGES 2023 - AOP, France (#494674) (XD) - $27.95
Organic blend of 55% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 4% Mourvèdre, and 1% other varieties. Elegant, gently perfumed aromas of medium-high intensity rise out of the glass with black raspberry, garrigue, strawberry, cherry, and peppery spice aromas flecked with stony minerals and scorched earth. The mid-weighted, slighty warm palate is dry and ripe with lovely black raspberry, garrigue, plum, cherry, strawberry, peppery spice, stony mineral, and earthy flavours in a complex profile. Acids are well-balanced, while the smooth, refined tannins have a somewhat creamy mouthfeel that leads to a supple, fine-grained, and gently chalky textured back palate. Red berry, garrigue, and peppery spice notes taper to stony mineral and savoury earth on the long, balanced, and very satisfying finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

Extremely limited quantities of other fantastic wines by Château La Nerthe are available at the LCBO, while the full portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Woodman Wines & Spirits.

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Luis Felipe Edwards Cinso Reserva Cinsault 2024 (Chile) - Wine Review

Happy long weekend! Tonight's red wine review is a delicious, vegan-friendly, and unoaked Cinsault from the Itata Valley in Chile that made its debut at the LCBO in last month's August 15 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Luis Felipe Edwards (LFE), a major wine producer in Chile that makes premium wines with unique styles and characteristics. It was established in 1976 by Luis Felipe Edwards Sr. after he and his wife returned to Chile following some years in Europe. The couple was enamoured by an estate in Colchagua Valley that was for sale by a family friend and already had 60 hectares of vineyards, a small winemaking facility, and a historical country farmhouse. This estate was the foundation for what would become one of Chile's largest wineries, while also committing to maintaining their family heritage.

Over the years, Luis Felipe Edwards purchased more vineyard holdings and produced bulk wine, but in the 1990s, he recognized the quality of the wines being produced from his estate grapes and decided to bottle his wine and sell it under his own brand, using his own name as a seal of quality on each bottle.

In the 2000s, Luis Felipe Edwards Jr. took over the role of General Manager, while all director positions are held by members of the family. The focus was to preserve the quality of his wines while also diversifying the portfolio, which led to the exploration of new terroirs, most notably an estate in coastal Leyda Valley. Since 2010, LFE has grown exponentially by increasing vineyard plantings and winemaking and bottling capacities in order to keep up with growing demand, with a particular focus on premium wine grapes.

Today, LFE Wine Group is still family-owned and -managed. Their mission is to be the leading ambassador of Chilean wine across all categories, while also offering exceptional quality at the best value to wine drinkers worldwide. LFE is committed to innovation, sustainability, and biodiversity, while honouring their heritage in every bottle they produce.

LFE Wine Group has several estates and many brands and ranges of wines, and what makes them unique is their exclusive origin and the gentle care in which they are crafted, which gives them their distinctive personalities. All of the company's wines are produced at their Puquillay Estate in the Colchagua Valley and are vegan-friendly. This particular red wine is from LFE's Heritage range of wines. This Cinso and its companion Paí are fresh and unique wines crafted using grapes from small producers in Chile's Itata Valley. These Cinsault and País vines were planted on their own roots more than 30 and 80 years ago, respectively, and are head-trained and traditionally harvested by hand, giving rise to a pair of wines that are a true reflection of their terroir and the history of Chile.

This red wine is crafted with 100% Cinsault that was sourced from small growers located in various areas of the Itata Valley, about 500 km south of Santiago. The vineyards are situated at high altitude on gently rolling terrain approximately 30 km inland from the ocean, while the vines are more than 30 years old and are planted on their own roots, without rootstock. Vineyard work was carried out traditionally, with tillage on horseback and without machinery.

To vinify this wine, the grapes were hand-harvested during the first and third weeks of April, and different winemaking techniques were used to achieve the greatest expression of fruit. Maceration was carried out using both thermo-flash and traditional techniques. Some berries were destemmed, while others remained as whole clusters, and everything underwent a delicate crushing prior to alcoholic fermentation, which was carried out over 10 days with wild and native yeasts. The wine was then macerated for another 15 days on its skins, and was then aged on its fine lees and bottled unfiltered. It had no contact with wood, resulting in a wine of intense colour and spice notes, and a rustic character.

The 2024 growing season in southern Chile began with a wet winter and cool spring due to El Niño. However, this also meant that there were no summer heat spikes, which allowed for slow, even ripening and higher-than-usual acidity levels. Despite some challenges, quality expectations are high. Let's see how this 2024 Cinsault from Chile is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LUIS FELIPE EDWARDS CINSO RESERVA CINSAULT 2024 - Vegan, Unfiltered, Unoaked, DO Valle del Itata, Chile (#51147) (XD) - $16.95
Screw cap. The medium+ to medium-high intensity has engaging aromas of peppery spice, dark red berry, wild berry, and dried herbs with savoury, underbrush, and earthy undertones. The dry, medium+ bodied palate has a nice, weighty mouthfeel with a fine mix of fruity-herbal-earthy notes with dark red berry, mild peppery spice, and earthy mineral flavours. Crisp, citrusy acids are fresh and juicy, while the tannins have a slightly chalky textured grip, with good structure. Tangy wild berry and dried herbal notes taper to savoury earth and underbrush on the dusty textured finish, with very good length. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

A couple of other wines by LFE Wine Group are available at the LCBO, while wines from the full portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Southern Glazer's Wine & Spirits of Canada.

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Xavier Vignon Côtes du Rhône 2023 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Côtes du Rhône blend of Grenache and Syrah that arrived at the LCBO at the beginning of the month in the August 1st LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Xavier Vins, a Rhône wine producer that was established in the late 20th century by Xavier Vignon, a renowned and pioneering Rhône oenologist. Xavier caught the wine bug after a chance encounter with an oenologist while studying in the faculty of pharmacy in the Champagne capital of Reims. This led to Xavier gaining valuable experience at several Champagne houses and marked the beginning of his journey into wine. In 2002, Xavier Vignon began making and marketing his own wines under the name Xavier Vins.

The philosophy at Xavier Vins is based on a creative approach that is original, unusual, and daring. Having spent time in both Champagne and Bordeaux, Xavier developed strong values around the freedom of blending and the notion of beginning with an idea before embarking upon the creation of a wine. Naturally, each year will be different and a source of surprise. The combination of different grape varieties in a blend can impart complexity while also enhancing the expression of terroir. To create a faithful expression of wine, Xavier works with a wide range of ingredients, including grapes, terroirs, parcels, exposures, altitudes, vintages, wooden vessels, and stainless-steel vessels. With his in-depth knowledge of each and every part of the Rhône Valley, Xavier uses this knowledge to select the soil, parcel, and varietal combinations needed to create a loyal and harmonious wine.

Xavier believes that wines are always the result of contrary or complementary unions, and that bringing together these different entities can give the best possible result. Therefore, each cuvée is a unique experience and an expression of a vintage, varietal, or terroir. The wines of Xavier Vignon are a source of emotion, guided by the pleasure of sharing, and an invitation not only to dream but also to better understand the landscapes of the Rhône Valley, which he holds so close to his heart. Xavier strives to capture this little part of the southern Rhône in the bottle, encapsulating its aromas, colours, and textures, with the ultimate aim of making people happy!

I last enjoyed the 2020 Xavier Vignon Côtes du Rhône nearly four years ago, when it was a blend of primarily Grenache, with Syrah and Mourvèdre in support. This vintage is a blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah, elaborated from very old vines ranging from 45 to 100 years of age, and the wine is from Xavier Vins' "The Originals" collection. The grapes were selected from more than 250 parcels, mainly located in the southern Rhône, from a diverse range of terroirs consisting of clay, pebbles, limestone, and sandy soils. To craft this wine, the grapes were manually harvested, with harvest dates determined by daily berry tasting. It was fermented at moderate temperatures to favour gentle diffusion of aromatic compounds. 80% of the blend underwent a short period of ageing in concrete vats to enhance the aromas, while the remainder was aged in wooden truncated-cone vats.

The growing season in 2023 began with a very dry start from January to March, which resulted in a relatively late budburst in early April, while the Mistral winds blew frequently during the period between budburst and flowering—precisely when growers would have preferred calmer conditions. Welcoming rains fell in May and June, followed by a warm and arid summer, which climaxed at 43°C in late August and led to some grapes suffering from sunburn and maturation issues. However, rainfall at the end of August allowed the vines to recover and the grapes to resume ripening. In September, the weather cooled with substantial diurnal temperature variation, which helped retain aromatics and acidity, while harvest took place during an Indian summer and continued into mid-October for the red varieties. Coming from a good vintage for vines grown on clay soils beneath rolled pebbles in the southern Rhône, let's see how the 2023 Côtes du Rhône red is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

XAVIER VIGNON CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2023 - AOP, France (#297317) (XD) - $19.95
A 70/30 blend of Grenache and Syrah from very old vines ranging from 45 to 100 years old. This has a lovely, fragrant, medium-high intensity nose of both black & red fruits, white pepper spice, black raspberry, dark red cherry, garrigue, plum, and savoury herb aromas with meaty undertones and touches of scorched earth and stony mineral in a complex profile. On the dry, medium to medium-full bodied palate it has lovely black raspberry, dark red cherry, garrigue, meaty, peppery spice, savoury herbs, scorched earth, and mineral flavours supported by fresh and juicy acidity. Smooth, supple, and elegant tannins have a very gentle grip on the back palate. Savoury herbs with black raspberry, scorched earth, and mineral notes linger on the long, well-balanced finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 4–5 years! Score: 90 pts

A few wines by Xavier Vignon are available in various quantities, while the full range be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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