Featherstone Red Tail Merlot 2023 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious, certified sustainable and vegan Merlot from Niagara that arrived at the LCBO as a Smart Buy in the January 10 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Like the 2023 Featherstone Canadian Oak Chardonnay I enjoyed a few months ago, this red wine is produced by Featherstone Estate Winery, an eco-friendly winery that was founded in 1999 by Louise Engel and her winemaker husband, Dave Johnson. Featherstone is located on 23 acres of rolling hills in the prestigious Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation of the Niagara Escarpment, and prides itself on its eco-friendly farming practices, which have been in place since Featherstone's founding.

The vision at Featherstone has always been to produce distinctive, small-batch wines that are cultivated in soils that reflect the biodiversity of the Niagara Escarpment. Since the beginning, the philosophy has been based on respect for the land, which is at the heart of making wine that is true to its soil and site. Through biodiversity and without the use of insecticides, Featherstone encourages an environment that is healthy and unique, as they believe that this individuality translates into their wines. In 2023, Featherstone received their Sustainable Winegrowing Ontario (SWO) certification.

In 2024, after twenty-five successful years, Featherstone changed hands and is now under the ownership of philanthropist Rayla Myhal and businessman George Myhal. The team at Featherstone has a common dedication to excellence in food and a passion for wine. In addition to building upon the successes of the past, Rayla and George are also using their background in philanthropy to help uplift the surrounding community and have set an ambitious goal to give back 10% of all profits to local charities in the area.

As winemaking and grape growing are both scientific and intuitive processes, Featherstone wines reflect the special character of the grapes, as well as the artistry of the winemaker. Kevin is still the senior winemaker at Featherstone, while the other winemaker is Kevin Qin, who has been with Featherstone since 2016.

Named after the graceful and swift, red-tailed hawks that fly above the vineyards in Niagara, this red wine is composed of 100% Merlot. The grapes were machine harvested by October 26th and optically sorted to separate the ripest grapes, then cold soaked on the skins for 5 days and underwent alcoholic fermentation using indigenous yeasts in their climate-controlled cellar. The wine also underwent complete malolactic fermentation. It was aged for 10 months in 100% French oak barrels (25% new) from Tonnellerie Sirgue-Nuits Saint Georges, with monthly lees stirring.

In 2023, the growing season in Niagara was saved by a dry and warm fall that provided relief from the wet, dreary, and smoke-filled summer. While harvest was behind normal schedule by up to three weeks, the end result was a bountiful crop with high-quality grapes. Merlot exhibits fine acidity and phenolic ripeness, alongside ripe tannic structure, and will be enjoyable both in the near and long term. From a very good vintage, let's see how this 2023 Merlot from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

FEATHERSTONE RED TAIL MERLOT 2023 - Vegan, Sustainable, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#131540) (XD) - $19.95
Enclosed by Stelvin screw cap, this Merlot has fragrant, medium-high intensity aromatics that deliver ripe red & black berried notes of currant, cassis, cherry, mocha chocolate, and earth, plus touches of cedar oak and green herbs. The dry, mid-weighted palate has delicious currant, cassis, black cherry, chocolate, earth, and cedar oak flavours in a well-balanced profile. Acids are crisp and balanced, while the tannins are smooth and refined, with a fine, dusty texture. Savoury earth and chocolate notes lead to a tangy finish, with very good length. Smart buy! Score: 89 pts

Many other delicious wines by Featherstone are available at the LCBO, while the entire portfolio can be ordered direct from the winery in Niagara.

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Villacreces Pruno 2022 and 2011 (Ribera del Duero) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's red wine reviews are a pair of lovely Tempranillo-based wines from the DO of Ribera del Duero in Spain. The 2022 vintage of this organic red wine arrived at the LCBO in last month's December 6 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection as part of the mini-feature on wines from Ribera del Duero.

The 2011 Pruno is a bottle I purchased over a decade ago from the September 28, 2013 LCBO VINTAGES Release. While my notes indicated that I probably should've opened this a few years ago, I figured this would be as good a time as any to open it back-to-back with the current vintage.

Both of these wines are produced by Finca Villacreces, a renowned estate winery situated in Spain's Ribera del Duero wine region with a history dating back to at least 1350, when Pedro de Villacreces, a Franciscan friar, was the first documented resident on the estate. Along with a group of ministers, Pedro cultivated the land, including a small vineyard that was used to make wine for their own use and nearby monasteries.

In 1836, the estate came into private hands, and soon thereafter it held rights over the waters of the Duero river. In the early 20th century, the estate was sold to the Cuadrado family from Valladolid. The Cuadrado family used the estate for various agricultural and recreational purposes, including housing illustrious guests. One of these guests was Peter Sisseck, who used the winery and part of the vineyard to craft the notable Flor de Pingus.

In 2004, the Cuadrado family sold the estate to the father and son team of Gonzalo and Lalo Antón, who already owned wineries in Rioja and Toro. After three years of remodelling and painstaking work to restore the vineyard, Finca Villacreces was once again inaugurated. In 2017, the acquisition of Pinos Claros, within the Golden Mile of Ribera del Duero, extended the estate's reach to 275 hectares of vineyards, 90% of which are organically farmed.

Today, Finca Villacreces is situated in the heart of Ribera del Duero's Golden Mile, amidst a 200-year-old pine forest and bathed to the north by the Duero River. This unique place brings landscape, tradition, and charm together, with a vineyard that is divided into 15 plots that are interspersed with a centenary pine forest. The vineyard at Finca Villacreces is unique because it is conditioned by the diversity of poor soil, which ranges from extremely sandy areas near the pines to the very stony terrain where pebbles from the alluvial deposition of the Duero river predominate.

Finca Villacreces is a 110-hectare estate, with 64 hectares of vineyards. Situated at 700 metres above sea level, the vineyard is subject to an extreme climate with large temperature fluctuations, long winters, and dry summers with low rainfall. However, the surrounding forest protects Finca Villacreces from the most aggressive climatic conditions. The focus at Finca Villacreces is for quality-focused and integrated viticulture, where the vine's natural condition is controlled and preserved in order to obtain wines with the unique Villacreces typicity and personality. Sustainability is also a focus at Finca Villacreces, with some of these initiatives being vineyard adaptation, support for biodiversity, sustainable packaging, and reduction of carbon footprint.

The 2022 vintage of this red wine is crafted with 93% Tempranillo, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1% Merlot, from grapes grown among the 64 hectares of vineyards located on the estates of Finca Villacreces and Pinos Claros. The average age of the vines is 25 years, and they are trained using a trellis system with light pines. To vinify this wine, the grapes underwent alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel tanks with double pissage (bleed off the juice to increase concentration of colour, tannins, and flavour), followed by malolactic fermentation in a combination of stainless steel tank, oak fermentation vat, and oak barrels. The wine was aged for 10 months in 75% French and 25% American second- and third-use oak.

The growing season in Ribera del Duero in 2022 was marked by the absence of rain and remarkably hot temperatures, which resulted in irregular ripening levels. While the grapes were healthy, they did exhibit below average weight with a higher ratio of skin to pulp. This also allowed producers to pick at their chosen time, which will play a key role in defining the individual wine styles. It was a long harvest with the last Tempranillo picked in mid-November. From a very good vintage with wines displaying very good structure and complexity, let's see how this 2022 Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

VILLACRECES PRUNO 2022 - Vegan, DO Ribera del Duero, Spain (#312140) (XD) - $24.95
This organic red wine is a blend of 93% Tempranillo, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1% Merlot. The medium+ intensity nose takes some coaxing to reveal ripe, dark berried, black cherry, currant, and sweet vanillan oak aromas surrounding a core of plum and accented with floral violet. The dry, medium+ bodied palate is well-structured with ripe dark berry, black cherry, and currant flavours in a spicy profile. More savoury on the mid-palate with cedary oak, earth, and mineral notes. It has crisp and juicy acidity, along with chalky, drying, and almost astringent tannins. Savoury earth and smoky mineral notes linger on the long, dry finish. Recommended buy that is best enjoyed over the next 2-3 years. Score: 89 pts

FINCA VILLACRECES PRUNO 2011 - DO Ribera del Duero, Spain (#312140) (XD) - $19.95
This blend of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon pours a very dark purple colour. It has savoury spice, leather, and mature, stewed black fruit aromas rising out of the glass with medium+ to medium-high intensity. Savoury wet earth and sandalwood with touches of dried herb and black currant add nuance, interest, and complexity. The medium-bodied palate is spicy with savoury black fruit, currant, leather, sandalwood, and dried herb flavours. Acids are still quite refresh, while the textured tannins are slightly astringent and drying. Alcohol peeks through slightly on the mid-palate, while savoury earth and woody notes linger on the long and slightly tangy finish. Past prime with little room for further improvement. Serve at cool, red wine temperature and enjoy now! Really smooth and pleasantly mature on the 2nd day. Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Finca Villacreces can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo 2022 (Piedmont) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of a beautiful, vegan-friendly Nebbiolo from Langhe DOC in Piedmont that arrived at LCBO outlets across Ontario in last month's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on December 6th - with bottles still available for purchase across the province.

It is produced by Vietti, a prestigious and historic estate winery situated in the village of Castiglione Falletto, within the Barolo wine region of Piedmont in northwest Italy. It was established in the 1800s by Carlo Vietti, then taken over in 1917 by his son, Mario, who transformed the family farm into a winemaking facility dedicated to the production of high-quality wines.

In the late-1950s, Luciana Vietti, daughter of Mario, and her husband and winemaker Alfredo Currado, who were both great admirers of art, took Vietti to new heights by intertwining winemaking knowledge, art, and culture. The ambition, foresight, and pioneering spirit of Alfredo helped create in 1961 one of the first Barolo Cru - Rocche di Castiglione, followed a few years later by their first Roero Arneis. Matched with artist labels in 1974, the Vietti brand became an icon and standard-bearer of one of the most important revolutions of the time.

In the 1980s, the winery was taken over by Mario Cordero, the son-in-law of Luciana and Alfredo. And in the 1990s, Mario was joined by the son of Luciana and Alfredo, Luca Currado Vietti, and Luca's wife, Elena. Under the leadership of the 4th generation of the Vietti family, the brand has grown today to be universally recognized among the best Italian labels with the core values of commitment, vision, culture, and enthusiasm. Vietti's road to quality combines respect for tradition and careful experimentation, where man and earth have always been able to dialogue.

Today, Vietti is owned by the Krause family, who purchased the winery in 2016 and expanded the estate with new and renowned Crus in the denomination of both Barolo and Barbaresco. While the Vietti family is no longer involved in this project as both Luca and Elena left in 2023, the Krause family is committed to safeguarding the identity and values that have characterized the Vietti brand since its origins. Their values are based on, among other things, territory, craftsmanship, quality research, human capital, and sustainability. The place where the vision of wine and the vineyard is an expression of the intelligence of the hands, and that preserving the craftsmanship is essential to wine and its production. The Vietti manifesto is to always improve, respect nature's own pace, take care of tradition and of those that help safeguard it, and cultivate sustainability. The aim is to obtain identity-based wines capable of withstanding the test of time.

Like the 2020 Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo I enjoyed in 2024, this red wine is crafted with 100% Nebbiolo that was grown in selected vineyard sites, mostly situated in the areas of Barolo and Barbaresco. After harvesting, the grapes were brought to the winery and underwent alcoholic fermentation for about 3–4 weeks at a controlled temperature between 28°C–32°C, followed by malolactic fermentation in steel tanks and/or barriques. Each parcel was vinified and aged separately until the lots that will be used for Langhe Nebbiolo and those that will continue to age for Barolo, are selected. The parcels for Langhe Nebbiolo were aged for about 18–20 months in barriques and large barrels, then blended in steel prior to bottling. This wine is considered to be a "second Barolo", and the name "Perbacco" comes from the Italian exclamation "Per Bacco!", which translates roughly to "By Bacchus", the Roman god of wine. Perbacco symbolizes wine, pleasure, and celebration.

The 2022 growing season is noted for being the driest and among the hottest in Piedmont's history. The region was already lacking water and barely received any precipitation between December 2021 and the beginning of May 2022. The arid conditions persisted through summer, which resulted in small vines producing small clusters. Vital in this vintage were soil and canopy management in order to preserve any moisture and protect the grapes from sunburn. From a vintage with slightly reduced yields and, given the climatic conditions, surprising balance and acidity, let's see how this 2022 Langhe Nebbiolo is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

VIETTI PERBACCO NEBBIOLO 2022 - Vegan, DOC Langhe, Piedmont, Italy (#15087) (XD) - $42.95
100% Nebbiolo. The medium+ to medium-high intensity nose takes some coaxing to reveal pretty and gently perfumed aromas of rose floral, red cherry, and sweet spices with hints of orange peel and leafy herb. The dry, medium-full bodied palate is quite firmly structured with lovely red cherry, rose floral, sweet spice, cinnamon, and savoury earth flavours with leafy herb accents. Acids are fresh, juicy, and succulent, while the structured tannins have some youthful grip. Subtle spice notes on the mid-palate, while savoury earth notes take over on the finish, with excellent length. Enjoyable now with protein, but I would tuck this away for 3-4 years and enjoy to the early-mid-2030s. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Small quantities of other fine wines by Vietti are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Estate Papaioannou Saint George Agiorgitiko 2019 (Greece) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely organic and vegan-friendly Agiorgitiko from Nemea in Greece. It arrived at the LCBO in last month's December 6th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Estate Papaioannou, a small, family-owned Greek winery situated in Ancient Nemea, within the Peloponnese wine region of southern Greece. While the Papaioannou family has deep viticultural roots in Nemea going back to the 19th century, the modern estate winery was established in the 1950s by Thanasis Papaioannou.

Mr. Papaioannou was one of the first wine producers who understood and promoted the idea that wine must maintain its unique characteristics - the grape variety, the vineyard's location, as well as the work in the vineyard, while ensuring biological balance. The family has about 60 hectares of private vineyards located in various vineyard plots within Nemea, and are planted to both Greek and international varieties. All the family's vineyards are 100% organically cultivated, with the aim of achieving ultimate harmony with the ecosystem. Thanasis Papaioannou passed away in 2019 at the age of 92.

George Papaioannou, son of Thanasis, carries on his father's tradition. As a chemist-oenologist, George is creatively active in his own vineyards, as well as in the modern winery of Ancient Nemea. The goal is for the continuous improvement of the wines produced, maintain the highest standards of hygiene and organic characteristics, as well as experiment with new types of wines. With vineyards situated in different areas of Nemea, which are characterized by differences in the ecosystem and age of the vines, the result is wines of multi-dynamism. The quality of the wine is further enhanced by the correct selection of a satisfactory number of varieties, along with the profound knowledge of its pioneers about everything related to the vineyard and its cultivation. With a commitment to sustainable practices, Estate Papaioannou has been farming organically since 2004. Papaioannou Winery is certified by the state-controlled DIO, and more recently achieved USDA NOP organic certification.

This red wine is crafted with 100% Agiorgitiko, a native Greek grape varietal which also often goes by the name St. George. The grapes for this wine were grown in their 60 hectare estate vineyard in Nemea, at 350 metres above sea level. The vines are 35-years-old and planted on clay soil with gravels, and trained using the Royat double cordon system. It was vinified by undergoing a cool temperature fermentation using indigenous yeasts, with 2 weeks of maceration time. The wine was matured for 12 months in 300 L American and French oak barrels, 50% new and 50% 1-year-old, followed by 6 months of bottle ageing.

The 2019 vintage in Greece is considered to be one of the best in the last 20+ years with consistent, evenly distributed rainfall, and without extreme periods of heat, which resulted in a high-acid vintage. In Nemea, low temperatures during winter and spring, combined with continuous rainfall, resulted in late maturation during all stages of ripening. The summer months and September experienced heat and drought conditions, which ensured good hygiene for most grape varieties. With normal yields and excellent grape health, the resulting wines are characterized by high acidity, which gives aromatic wines good varietal expression. From a very good vintage with high expectations, let's see how this 2019 Agiorgitiko from Nemea, Greece, is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ESTATE PAPAIOANNOU SAINT GEORGE AGIORGITIKO 2019 - Vegan, PDO Nemea, Greece (#27217) (XD) - $29.95
This organic Agiorgitiko is fragrant and open, with a medium-high intensity nose offering a lovely, complex mix of dark fruited spices revealing layers of black cherry, blackberry, sandalwood, and savoury earth aromas nuanced with touches of rose floral, dried cherry, and barnyard. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it has oak spice, dark berry, black cherry, black plum, peppery spice, and smoky mineral flavours. It is well-structured with crisp and juicy acidity, as well as refined, gritty tannins. Touches of intriguing menthol notes on the back palate, while waves of black cherry, pepper, and oak spice notes lead to smoky minerals with excellent length on the crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

One other wine by Papaioannou is available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Alpha Estate Turtles Single Vineyard Malagouzia 2024 and Hedgehog Single Vineyard Xinomavro 2022 (Greece) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of excellent, vegan-friendly wines from Greece that arrived at the LCBO last month. The Xinomavro arrived in the November 8 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, while the Malagouzia arrived in the November 22 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, and both wines are readily available across Ontario.

Both of these wines are produced by Alpha Estate, a highly-regarded winery situated in the Amyndeon region of Florina, in Northwestern Macedonia of Greece. It was established in 1997 by experienced viticulturist Makis Mavridis, and chemist-oenologist Angelos Iatridis. They gained many years of experience and had passion in their respective fields before becoming business partners and creating their own wines from vineyards planted in Amyndeon.

The modern winery of Alpha Estate is now run by the next generation of the families, Angeliki Iatridou and Emorfili Mavridou, daughters of Angelos and Makis. Together, they carry on the knowledge and passion for winemaking, while respecting tradition and evolving to participate in Alpha Estate's common vision. With a 220-hectare privately-owned vineyard with a unique ecosystem situated in Amyndeon, they respect nature and use the most recent international standards in eco-friendly and sustainable farming practices and winemaking. The soul of their work is the team of people that contribute every day to the dream, to craft wines with professional know-how and experience throughout each stage, from vineyard to production to promotion.

Alpha Estate's winemaking facility is located at the heart of the vineyard, thereby allowing the grapes to arrive at the winery upon harvesting in the shortest amount of time. Furthermore, the grapes are harvested during the coolest hours of the day and transported to the winery in special refrigerators, which allows the grapes' organoleptic characteristics to be protected and shows the great respect that Alpha Estate has for grapes. The modern winemaking facility was designed to allow the grapes to move throughout the winery by using gravity, which allows for minimum possible stress on the raw material. The winery was constructed in the mid-2000s using highly inactive and neutral materials in order to create a completely neutral atmospheric condition inside the winery, which helps protect the quality of the grape, must, and wine.

This Malagouzia was grown in their Turtles vineyard, on the Amyndeon plateau of Northwestern Macedonia, and named "Turtles" because freshwater turtles are commonly found in the nearby lakes and wetlands. The privately-owned 220-hectare vineyard is situated at 620–710 metres above sea level, which is among the highest vineyards in Greece, and planted on sandy – sandy clay soil over limestone, with excellent drainage. To craft this wine, the grapes were hand-harvested on September 14th, destemmed, and optically sorted. After undergoing light crushing, the grapes underwent a temperature-controlled alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel tanks, with skin contact. The wine remained in contact with its fine lees for 2 months, with regular stirring.

The Xinomavro was grown by Alpha Estate's founder, Makis Mavridis, and crafted by winemaker Angelos Iatridis. The grapes were grown at Mavridis' privately-owned Hedgehog vineyard on the Amyndeon plateau of Northwestern Macedonia. The vineyard is named "Hedgehog" because of the hedgehogs that are commonly found in the area, and is planted between 620–710 metres above sea level, with northern exposure to the sun and facing Lake Petron and Mount Voras. The grapes were brought to the winery and destemmed. Without crushing, the grapes were cold-soaked with skin contact, and underwent alcoholic fermentation at gradually increasing temperatures while maintaining contact sue lie for 8 months, with regular stirring. It was aged for 12 months in French oak barrels, followed by maturation in bottle for 12 months.

Let's see how these two fantastic wines from Northwestern Macedonia in Greece are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

ALPHA ESTATE TURTLES SINGLE VINEYARD MALAGOUZIA 2024 - Vegan, PGI Florina, Greece (#32161) (XD) - $19.95
This 100% Malagouzia has a lifted, medium-high to highly aromatic nose that offers an elegant mix of leesy, limestone mineral, lemon citrus, and grapefruit aromas flecked with spring flowers, herbs, peach, and tropical fruit. On the dry, medium+ bodied palate it is dense and impressively structured with crunchy lemon citrus, stony mineral, spice, grapefruit, and herbal flavours nuanced with peach and floral notes. It has crisp, lively, and well-structured acidity, along with a fine, gently chalky textured mouthfeel. Juicy with lemon citrus notes tapering to stony and leesy minerals on the finish, with excellent length. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

ALPHA ESTATE HEDGEHOG SINGLE VINEYARD XINOMAVRO 2022 - Vegan, PDO Amyndeon, Greece (#259762) (XD) - $29.95
Clean and open, this has a medium-high intensity nose of tomato leaf mingling red cherry, dried rose floral, savoury earth, mineral, licorice, and sandalwood aromas that pleasantly evolve in the glass. The mid-weighted palate is dry and gently spicy with ripe red fruited notes of plum, cherry, tomato leaf, licorice, dried rose floral layered over savoury earth and oak spice flavours. It has fresh, juicy, and lemony acidity, while the supple, textured tannins are mildly grippy, with good structure. The tomato and red fruit notes give way to savoury and earthy minerals on the long finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Many other lovely wines by Alpha Estate are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - KOLONAKI Group of Companies.

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Tiraki Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (New Zealand) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, sustainable, and vegan Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough. It is brand-new to the LCBO and landed on shelves (and online) in last month's November 8 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Tiraki Wines, a family-owned winery situated at Longfield Farm in the Southern Valleys of Marlborough, New Zealand. The farm was established in 1870 and has been family-owned and farmed for 5 generations. However, their journey into winegrowing only began after they planted their first grapes on the site in 1999.

The Hammond family didn't plan to start a wine company, but perhaps it was inevitable. Tiraki is run by three siblings - Josh, Tyler, and Ellarose Hammond - who grew up on the Marlborough farm, and a long-time friend - Chris. Together, they built forts out of bay hales, worked the vineyard by day, and by night they skied down the Wairau River - the same river that is depicted on the labels of Tiraki wines. Each sibling followed their own career path, which turned out to be complementary to each other as Josh became a winemaker, Tyler an MBA grad, and Ellarose a marketing grad, while Chris was a brilliant salesperson. The company was quietly growing before it even had a name.

As each child was growing up, one by one, they left Marlborough to pursue their own dreams in new cities and countries. However, in 2020, they all came home as Covid hit - much to the delight of their parents, and it was in 2020 that Tiraki was born, around the kitchen table, during vineyard walks, and over a few family dinners with Chris at the table.

Tiraki means 'the clearing of the sky' and is exactly what the brand has been for the family - a return to what matters the most - the land, their roots, and each other. Tiraki was created to reflect the life they've lived and the values they were raised with: to care for the land, support your community, and stay connected to what's real. Their values are rooted in Tikanga Māori and shape everything they do: Kaitiakitanga (Guardianship of the Land), Whanaungatanga (The Value of Connection and Kinship), Kotahitanga (Unity and Collective Action), and Manaakitanga (The Spirit of Hospitality, Kindness, and Generosity). Tiraki is proud to be New Zealand's first B Corp Certified wine company. Today, the Longfield farm spans 650 acres, with the majority planted to Sauvignon Blanc that is farmed with care and a commitment to best practices.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Sauvignon Blanc that was grown in their Oddstone Vineyard nestled in the Southern Valleys. The vines are 12 to 30 years old and planted on free-draining alluvial soils, and delivers concentrated fruit and lively acidity. The grapes to craft this wine were harvested in the cool, early morning, which allows for retaining aromatic flavour precursors, then gently pressed into tank to cold settle. The clear juice was fermented in stainless steel tanks at low temperatures with selected yeast strains designed to enhance aromatic intensity. Additionally, 18% of the wine was wild fermented in a mix of oak puncheons and stainless steel tanks. The two portions were then blended and aged on light lees for 5 months in tank.

During the 2023 growing season on the South Island of New Zealand, the vintage felt wet because it rained quite evenly from January to April, although total rainfall was slightly lower than average. Furthermore, variable and protracted flowering of early ripening varieties resulted in average yields for Sauvignon Blanc due to poor fruit set. Critical to the success of the vintage were the resulting loose bunches, which meant less disease vulnerability, particularly in Sauvignon Blanc, which is one of the most disease-prone varieties due to its naturally tight bunches. Cold nights held botrytis at bay and maintained acidity. From a La Niña year with disease pressure, the 2023 vintage is considered to be a resounding success, ranking among the top five vintages of all time. Moreover, it is possible to hypothesize that Sauvignon Blanc's optimal potential is realized in these benign La Niña conditions. Let's see how this 2023 Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TIRAKI SINGLE VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 - Sustainable, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#41802) (XD) - $24.95
Enclosed by screw cap, the restrained, medium-high to highly aromatic nose offers a lovely mix of ripe tropical fruits, guava, kiwi, passion fruit, lime citrus, leesy mineral, and grapefruit aromas, plus whiffs of white floral. The dry, medium-full bodied palate is impressively concentrated with lovely lime citrus, passion fruit, guava, and grapefruit flavours. It seems a bit tightly wound with its crisp and juicy acidity, and slightly grippy textured mouthfeel. Nicely balanced flavours throughout with lime and passion fruit notes tapering to leesy minerals on the long, crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other lovely wines by Tiraki Wines can be ordered through their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.

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Kacaba Terraced Vineyard Syrah 2021 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent, vegan-friendly Syrah from one of Niagara's premier Syrah wine producers. It marks the first time that the LCBO has featured a Kacaba single-vineyard Syrah in a VINTAGES Release feature story as it was categorized as perfect for festive cocktail parties (and is also suitable for the table) in the November 8 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Kacaba Vineyards & Winery, a premium, small-batch wine producer situated on prime, winegrowing land on the Niagara Escarpment in Vineland, Ontario. It was established in 1997 by Michael Kacaba, a Bay St. lawyer in Toronto of Ukrainian descent and a Saskatchewan background. The land where the Kacaba winery resides was slated to be a subdivision, but Mr. Kacaba had other visions and began the work to establish a vineyard and winery, and only two years later, Kacaba had their first vintage in 1999 and consistent success followed soon thereafter.

While Mr. Kacaba is no longer the owner of the winery, his vision remains - to produce wines using only the finest grapes grown on the estate or from partner growers in surrounding vineyards. The philosophy at Kacaba is dependent upon on producing small quantities of wines by limiting the quantities they can handle such that they are able to manage by hand all aspects of the winemaking process. With a focus on small-batch winemaking, Kacaba is able to produce wines of merit, while also encouraging sustainable agriculture on their land and from partner growers. Kacaba has also greatly benefited from its location on the Niagara Escarpment - a slope leading to the lake bed of the prehistoric lake that covered southern Ontario - a unique geographical microclimate whereby cold air naturally flows down the Escarpment and over Lake Ontario, where it warms, rises, and returns to heat the Escarpment. This process provides for a frost-free and extended growing season, which results in longer maturing varieties such as Syrah to naturally reach phenolic maturity and thrive in this area.

This Terraced Vineyard Syrah is one of several single-vineyard Syrahs in the Kacaba lineup. The Terraced Vineyard is one of the two original blocks of Syrah that were planted in the Kacaba Vineyard in 1997. Today, this vineyard includes some younger vines that were planted in 2007, when the neighbouring property was acquired and planted along with the Proprietor's Block. The vineyard was planted in the ravine on the property, and had to be terraced in order to plant the rows and accommodate the vineyard equipment that would help maintain the property. The ravine (and the rows of vines) run almost directly north-to-south, allowing the vines to have optimum sun exposure. With its unique microclimate, this block of vines in the terraced slope vineyard has shown much promise over the years, while producing exceptional wines. The vineyard is the most prominent part of the property as it can be seen in its entirety from the Bailey Bridge.

This red wine is actually a co-fermented blend of 90.7% Syrah and 9.3% Viognier. After careful hand-harvesting of the grapes, they were gently destemmed and left as whole berries for open-top fermentation. Both the Syrah and Viognier were cold-soaked and fermented together to extract colour, flavours, and aromatics from the skins prior to introducing yeast to initiate fermentation. During fermentation, the tanks were hand-plunged twice a day to further extract colour and flavour, while post-fermentation the wine was pressed from the skins and moved to a mixture of both French and American oak barrels to complete malolactic fermentation. The wine remained in barrels for 14 months for maturation, then combined in tank, filtered, and then bottled in August 2023.

In 2021, the growing season in Niagara was a challenging vintage. Spring and summer were mostly hot and dry, while autumn saw a shift to cool and mild temperatures, which is generally favourable for grape maturation. However, autumn also brought more rainfall, cloud cover, and fog than desired, conditions which pose a risk for fungal diseases. However, because the team at Kacaba was proactive with disease management, the timing of harvest was adjusted in order to ensure optimal grape ripeness. From a vintage that tested the skill of winemakers, as well as picking decisions, let's see how this 2021 Syrah from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

KACABA TERRACED VINEYARD SYRAH 2021 - Vegan, VQA Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#394171) (XD) - $35.15
This co-fermented blend of 90.7% Syrah and 9.3% Viognier has a deep, medium-high intensity that seems a bit shy, offering lovely savoury meaty, dark berry, black cherry, black peppercorn spice, and floral aromas. The dry, medium+ weighted palate is ripe with tangy dark berry and sour cherry flavours joining the black peppercorn, meaty, floral, and savoury earth replays. Acids are crisp and juicy, while the ripe, fine-grained tannins are supple and textured, with good structure. Black peppercorn and meaty notes linger on the long, slightly tangy finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 5-6 years. Score: 91+ pts

A couple of other wines by Kacaba are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered direct from the winery in Niagara.

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Featherstone Canadian Oak Chardonnay 2023 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a delicious, sustainable, and vegan-friendly Chardonnay that screams local as it was barrel-fermented and aged in Canadian oak barrels. This white wine returned to the LCBO as part of last month's October 11th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and is widely available across Ontario, including at the winery in Niagara.

It is produced by Featherstone Estate Winery, an eco-friendly winery situated on 23 acres of rolling hills in the prestigious Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation of the Niagara Escarpment. The winery was founded in 1999 by Louise Engel and her winemaker husband, Dave Johnson, and prides itself on their use of eco-friendly practices in the vineyard and cellar since the beginning. In 2024, after 25 successful years, Featherstone changed hands and began a new chapter under the ownership of philanthropist Rayla Myhal and businessman George Myhal.

The vision at Featherstone is to build on the successes of the past and continue to produce distinctive, small-batch Niagara wines that are cultivated in soils that reflect the biodiversity of the Niagara Escarpment. The philosophy at Featherstone has always been based on respect for the land which is at the heart of making wine that is true to its soil and site. Through biodiversity and reduced chemical intervention, Featherstone encourages an environment that is healthy and unique, as they believe that this individuality translates into their wines. As nutrients and minerals are exchanged and transformed in a give-and-take relationship between living soil organisms and plants, there is a mutually beneficial circle where the soil nourishes the vine, while farming practices nurture the soil. Since its founding, Featherstone has always prided itself on farming without the use of insecticides, and in 2023 they achieved their Sustainable Winegrowing Ontario (SWO) certification.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Chardonnay that was harvested on October 26, 2023. The grapes were machine harvested, crushed, de-stemmed, and then pressed into barrels made from Canadian oak that was grown nearby. It underwent alcoholic fermentation in barrels using wild, indigenous yeast, followed by 100% complete malolactic fermentation. The wine was aged for 10 months in 100% Canadian oak barrels, with lees stirring taking place on a monthly basis.

In 2023, rhe growing season was wet, dreary, and featured a smoke-filled summer, but was remarkably saved by a dry and warm fall. While the harvest was pushed back by as much as three weeks, most varieties that were harvested were in good shape, with a bountiful crop. Chardonnay was one of the star varieties of the vintage as it benefited from warm days and cool nights prior to harvest and developed vibrant fruit and juicy acidity. From a very good vintage, let's see how this 2023 Chardonnay from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

FEATHERSTONE CANADIAN OAK CHARDONNAY 2023 - Sustainable, Vegan, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#149302) (XD) - $24.95
Enclosed by Stelvin screw cap, the fragrant, medium-high intensity nose offers caramel, banana, and vanilla aromas surrounding a core of ripe tropical fruits, yellow apples, and creamed peaches. On the dry, full-ish bodied palate it has caramel, vanilla, buttery, yellow apple, and peach flavours joined by some toasty oak spice notes. It's well-structured with crisp and juicy acidity, while the spice notes give way to leesy minerals on the long, juicy finish. Recommended buy. Score: 89 pts

Many other delicious wines by Featherstone are available at the LCBO, while the entire portfolio can be ordered direct from the winery in Niagara.

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Monte Schiavo Ruviano Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico 2023 (Marche) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, organic and vegan Verdicchio from the DOC of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi in its native home of Marche. It is brand new to the LCBO, arriving on shelves and online as part of the recent August 30th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Monte Schiavo wines are produced by Tenute Pieralisi, a family wine business that was established in the 1960s in the Marche wine region of Italy. The Pieralisi family are one of the most famous families of entrepreneurs and winemakers in the region of Marche. Innovation is in the family's DNA, as well as their attachment to the land and to the region. As innovators, Adeodato Pieralisi founded in 1888 the first workshop for the maintenance of agricultural machinery, and the passion for innovation has guided the family's path since that time.

The Pieralisi family is thankful for the land which is particularly suited to agriculture, and along with a cutting-edge process aimed at guaranteeing taste and quality, they are able to boast of excellence in wine production that is guided by the passion and experience of first-class oenologists and master winemakers. Moreover, their belief is that genuineness is key to a quality product. The Pieralisi family and the team are guided by a deep respect for the land and its natural processes, as well as by the conviction that authenticity at the origin is key to creating quality wines. All Pieralisi Estates are certified as Organic Farming and fully comply with the policy for the production of Vegan wines.

The story of the Monte Schiavo winery begins in 1978 as the Monte Schiavo Farmers' Co-operative. The winery is located in the commune of Maiolati Spontini, in the province of Ancona, in the heart of the traditional Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi region. Monte Schiavo's 115 hectares of vineyards are planted on bright, sun-drenched, south-to-southwest slopes of the gentle hilly spurs. In 1995, Monte Schiavo joined the Pieralisi group and is now a modern and dynamic wine company that produces a range of high-quality wines.

This white wine is crafted using 100% Verdicchio that was grown in private vineyards situated in the communes of Maiolati Spontini, Montecarotto, Poggio S. Marcello, and Rosora, within the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC of Marche. The vines were trained using the Guyot system and manually harvested in September, and underwent a traditional, temperature-controlled white wine vinification in stainless steel tanks to preserve the purity of the fruit and allow the varietal character to shine. Let's see how this 2023 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico from Marche is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

MONTE SCHIAVO RUVIANO VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO 2023 - Vegan, DOC, Marche, Italy (#44279) (XD) - $16.95
Enclosed by screw crap, this organic Verdicchio has a fresh, medium-high intensity nose of lovely, zesty lemon citrus, apple, wild herbs, white floral, and spice aromas nuanced with touches of almond and mineral. The dry palate is medium+ weighted with fresh and lively acidity. Delicious, ripe and gently honeyed flavours of zesty lemon citrus, apple, white flowers, wild herbs, and almond. Some mineral notes appear on the textured mid-palate. More savoury on the lengthy finish with mineral and white floral notes joined by touches of spice. This recommended buy is ideal with seafood, poultry, salads, and vegetarian fare. Score: 89 pts

Other Monte Schiavo wines can be ordered through their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.

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Kir-Yianni Single Vineyard Ramnista Xinomavro 2020 (Greece) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent, vegan-certified Single Vineyard Xinomavro that made its debut at the LCBO as part of the feature on Greek wines in last month's LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on August 16th.

It is produced by Kir-Yianni, a renowned Greek winery that was founded in 1997 by Yiannis Boutaris (1942-2024), a leading figure in the Greek wine industry. Yiannis started his own project after leaving his family's premium wine company, Boutari Wine Group, which was established by his grandfather in 1879.

Today, Kir-Yianni is led by Yiannis' son, Stellios Boutaris, a fifth generation winemaker of the Boutaris family. Stellios became Managing Director of Kir-Yianni in 1999, and was joined by his brother, Mihalis, a few years later after completing his studies at UC Davis. Stellios leads Kir-Yianni into the next phase of its history with a philosophy based on a desire for innovation, respect for tradition, and true knowledge and character of the wine. Sustainability is also a core philosophy and vital business decision at Kir-Yianni. In November 2022, Kir-Yianni set up a "Sustainability Team" and began their journey to carbon neutrality.

Winegrowing in Naoussa, in northern Greece, has a long history dating back to the 16th century. From the end of the 19th century to the beginning of the 20th century, the vine was the main crop in the area. Xinomavro was the main varietal planted in vineyards in Naoussa, and trained in gobelet style and planted in dense rows. Today, Naoussa is one of the most prominent wine-producing regions of Greece, with over 500 hectares under vine.

In 1970, Yiannis planted 40 hectares of Xinomavro vines on the eastern foothills of Mount Vermion, in Yianakohori, near the town of Naoussa. These first Xinomavro plantings signalled the revival of the ancient Naoussa vineyard and paved the way for the production of terroir wines, which has revolutionized the Greek winemaking scene in recent years. This vineyard would go on to become Ktima Kir-Yianni in Naoussa, and the fruit from these vines is what goes into crafting this Ramnista Xinomavro.

This red wine is crafted with 100% Xinomavro that was grown in the PDO Naoussa appellation of northern Greece. The wine's name is "Ramnista", a local idiom that stands for "royal hill", and portrays the trademark rolling hills of Kir-Yianni's estate vineyard in Naoussa. The "Ramnista blocks" are the source of Xinomavro grapes for this wine. Only the best parcels from the various blocks were selected for this wine, and the primary blocks for the 2020 vintage were #8, #12, #13, #14, #15, #16 and #17, #18, and #20. Nearly all of these blocks were planted in 1970 and 1971, on gentle slopes, with exposure to the sun running the gamut from northeast to south to northwest. The vines were trained using the Double Cordon system, and planted on loamy soils consisting mostly of sand and some clay.

To craft this wine, the grapes were hand-harvested with strict selection during the first week of October. After further rigorous grape selection on the conveyor belt, the grapes were cold-soaked for 7 days at low temperatures. It was fermented with pigeage (punch downs) for 10–15 days and pump-overs in a combination of large French oak vats and stainless steel tanks at a temperature of 19-23°C that is preserved during the 2- to 6-day post-fermentation maceration. The wine underwent malolactic fermentation in French oak barrels. It was matured for 16 months in 225 L and 500 L French oak, in a combination of first-, second-, and third-use barrels. The first blending took place on the 6th month of maturation, while the final blend was crafted just before bottling.

The 2020 growing season will be remembered for many things. In Greece, it began with a mild winter with very low to low rain, and typical seasonal temperatures. There was notable rain, sometimes intense, along with cooler than average nighttime temperatures from April to June, along with intense rainfall that was beneficial to the plants in mid-July. Heavy precipitation at the beginning of August was the last of the season, giving way to a long period of hot and dry conditions, with significant diurnal temperature ranges until harvest. From an uneven year with very good quality for red wines, let's see how this 2020 Xinomavro is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

KIR-YIANNI SINGLE VINEYARD RAMNISTA XINOMAVRO 2020 - Vegan, PDO Naoussa, Greece (#178020) (XD) - $38.95
The medium+ to medium-high intensity nose takes some coaxing to reveal attractive aromas of ripe red berry, Bing cherry, sweet baking spices, dried herbs and savoury earth, plus accents of orange adding further intrigue. The medium+ bodied palate is dry and structured with complex and ripe flavours of red cherry, red plum, fine sweet spices, dried herbs, savoury oak, plus orange touches. It has fresh and juicy acidity, along with well-structured and somewhat grippy tannins. Savoury earth and smoky mineral notes linger on the long, textured finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92+ pts

Many other fine wines by Kir-Yianni are available at the LCBO, and can be also be ordered through their Agent - Kolonaki Fine Wines & Spirits.

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Skouras Wild Ferment Assyrtiko 2024 (Greece) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is the latest vintage of a consistently excellent, and now vegan-certified, Assyrtiko that landed at the LCBO in the August 16th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection. It is featured as a wine to 'Arrive in Style', as well as part of the fantastic mini-feature on wines from Greece.

It is produced by Domaine Skouras, a well-respected and highly-regarded winery situated in the highlands of Argolida, within the village of Malandreni in Nemea, in northeastern Peloponnese, just a few kilometres from Argos. Founder George Skouras was born and raised in Argos, studied oenology in Dijon (Burgundy), and had a long-standing vision to create a winery in his homeland. The original Skouras winery was founded in 1986 within the small village of Pyrgela, on the outskirts of Argos, and the goal from the beginning was clear - to produce high-quality wines.

The ultra-modern winery of Domaine Skouras was built in 2004 and resides in the Nemea winegrowing zone, Greece's largest and possibly the most exciting Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) for red wines in Greece. The winery is situated among vineyards in an area that is blessed with ideal conditions for viticulture, especially for the indigenous Agiorgitiko. George and his wife, Ourania, energetically continue their passion and vision for the Domaine, and are now also joined at the winery by their two children. Dimitris, their son, studied Viticulture and Oenology in France, while Stella, their daughter, is a graduate of Economics and Marketing studies in Scotland.

The Skouras team uses technology as a tool only for precision and control, as their belief is that true winemaking happens with minimal intervention by always respecting the grape, the land, and the passage of time. At Skouras, every wine is expressed with a clear and consistent philosophy that is based on purity, varietal clarity, expression of the mesoclimate, and true reflection of the terroir. With this philosophy in mind, the vineyard team at Skouras works with an unwavering dedication and constant observation that is driven by a single, uncompromising goal: to produce exceptional grapes. It is the belief, truthfully, that only from outstanding fruit can a truly great wine be made. Each bottle of Skouras wine carries the signature of its creator — wines that are intense, energetic, and complex, and always expressed with elegance, grace, and finesse.

Like the 2023 Skouras Wild Ferment Assyrtiko I enjoyed last year, this is also 100% Assyrtiko. The grapes were grown in Nemea, in northeastern Peloponnese, at 620 metres above sea level, on mainly red clay soil, with vines averaging 11 years old. After harvesting the grapes in September, they were whole-bunch pressed, then underwent wild yeast fermentation in stainless steel vats at a controlled temperature of 15°C. The wine was aged sur lie for 4 months, and did not undergo malolactic fermentation.

The 2024 growing season in the Peloponnese peninsula was warm with reduced yields. However, grape quality is high. Let's see how this 2024 Assyrtiko from the Peloponnese is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

SKOURAS WILD FERMENT ASSYRTIKO 2024 - Vegan, PGI Peloponnese, Greece (#32387) (XD) - $19.95
Screw cap. Lovely, ripe, medium-high intensity nose has impressive depth and complexity with a fine mix of flinty minerality, lemon citrus, ripe apple, quince, pear, leesy, and yellow fruits, plus accents of white melon and floral blossom. The dry, medium-full bodied palate has very good structure and ripe flavours of lemon peel, citrus, apple, pear, flinty mineral, white melon, and blossom flavours in a slightly honeyed profile. It has fresh, well-balanced acidity, along with impressive structure on the mid-palate. Flinty minerals, lemon citrus, and apple notes with a touch of spice on the long, savoury, and slightly textured finish. Must buy! Score: 91 pts

Quite a few wines my Domaine Skouras are available the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Kolonaki Fine Wines & Spirits.

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Featherstone Gemstone 2023 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious, certified sustainable, and vegan-friendly blend of Cab Franc and Merlot from Niagara that made its debut at the LCBO last month in the July 19th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by the eco-friendly Featherstone Estate Winery that is situated in the Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation of the Niagara Escarpment. It was founded in 1999 by Louise Engel and her winemaker husband, Dave Johnson.

In 2024, amidst their 25th anniversary, Featherstone changed hands and is now under the ownership of philanthropist Rayla Myhal and businessman George Myhal. Even though Featherstone is under new ownership, Rayla and George aim to build on the successes of the past and continue to produce distinctive, small-batch Niagara wines that are cultivated in soils that reflect the biodiversity of the Niagara Escarpment.

Since the beginning, Featherstone has prided itself on its eco-friendly practices in the vineyard and cellar. In addition to farming insecticide-free since its founding, the philosophy at Featherstone has always been based on respect for the land, which is at the heart of making wine that is true to its soil and site. Furthermore, as nutrients and minerals are exchanged and transformed in a give-and-take relationship between living soil organisms and plants, there is a mutually beneficial circle where the soil nourishes the vine, while farming practices nurture the soil. In 2023, Featherstone Estate Winery received their Sustainable Winegrowing Ontario (SWO) certification.

This red wine is a blend of 57.1% Cabernet Franc and 42.9% Merlot. The various parcels of grapes were harvested over a couple of weeks from Oct. 26 to Nov 10, 2023. Each component of the blend was individually vinified in their climate-controlled cellar. After undergoing alcoholic fermentation, the wine underwent 100% complete malolactic fermentation in stainless steel tanks to ensure freshness and bright fruit flavours. It was minimally oaked by spending only 2 months in oak barrels.

The growing season in 2023 featured a wet, dreary, and smoke-filled summer, which delayed harvest. It also featured an extended growing season that allowed for the development of ripe, concentrated primary fruit flavours and complexity, alongside firm tannins and finesse. Furthermore, the vintage produced bountiful fruit with a dry and warm fall that resulted in very good to excellent fruit quality, with impressive results for structured reds such as Cabernet Franc and Merlot - the two grapes comprising this red wine. Let's see how this 2023 Cabernet Franc and Merlot blend from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

FEATHERSTONE GEMSTONE 2023 - Sustainable, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#46055) (XD) - $17.95
This vegan-friendly blend of 57.1% Cabernet Franc and 42.9% Merlot is enclosed by Stelvin screw cap. The medium-high intensity nose is ripe and plummy with dark berry, currant, and peppery spice aromas, plus accents of cassis, black cherry, and subtle oak spice. The mid-weighted palate is dry and ripe with some jammy notes joining the plummy, black fruit, dark cherry, currant, cassis, and subtle oak spice characters. It has fresh and juicy acidity, along with ripe, lightly structured, and grainy tannins. Earthy and subtle oak spice notes with touches of dark cherry and herbs on the dry and savoury finish, with good length. Enjoy this recommended buy over next 2-3 years. Score: 88 pts

Many other delicious wines by Featherstone are available at the LCBO, while the entire portfolio can be ordered direct from the winery in Niagara.

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Les Dauphins Réserve Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2023 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, certified sustainable, and vegan-friendly white wine blend that is predominantly Grenache Blanc and Viognier that arrived at the LCBO a couple of weeks ago in the July 5th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Les Dauphins is one of several wine brands produced by Union des Vignerons des Côtes du Rhône (UVCDR), a co-operative winery that was founded in the southeastern French region of Drôme Provençale in 1965 by a group of local grower co-operatives. Together, they specialize in the production of an extensive range of AOC Côtes du Rhône, Villages, and Cru wines, thanks to the wealth of terroirs and grape varieties cultivated by their growers. The wines of UVCDR are crafted with the aim of encapsulating the beauty of their landscapes and the fabulous diversity of their Rhône Valley vineyards.

With its colourful, retro-style label, the Les Dauphins brand captures the "Joie de Vivre" of Paris in the Roaring 1920s, at a time when Paris was the festive capital of culture, and creativity was at its peak. The brand's origins go back to the 1920s, when family winegrowers in the region of Dauphiné joined forces in a co-operative style. The wines quickly became very popular because of their fruit-forward and palate-pleasing style.

The name "Les Dauphins" pays tribute to the terroir of the former Dauphiné province in southeastern France, where these wines originate from. The area, which has some of the Southern Rhône's best plots of vineyards, is bordered by the French Alps to the east, the Rhône River to the west and Provence to the south. The climate in this area is typically warm and sunny with little rainfall, while the soils range from stony clay-limestone to sandy soil.

Today, Les Dauphins wines are crafted by the new generations of winegrowers in the southern Rhône Valley as they work together with care and dedication to their terroir and by practicing environmentally-friendly viticulture. To obtain the unique style of Les Dauphins wines, the winemakers of Les Dauphins wines first select the plots among their vineyards, guide the vinification at their facilities, then select, blend, and age the best wines that will adorn the Les Dauphins label.

This white wine is a blend of 50% Grenache Blanc, 40% Viognier, and 10% Marsanne. The grapes were grown in a vineyard situated in the southeast of France, around the village of Tulette, within the old historic region of Dauphiné, on two different soil types: clay-limestone soil formed of sedimentary rock and pebbles, and stony soil with a sandy subsoil. With careful attention throughout the winemaking process, the grapes were grown in carefully selected plots and picked at dawn in order to preserve a pale colour, crunchy aromas, and freshness. It was aged for 4 months to increase drinking pleasure and soften the wine.

The 2023 growing season in the southern Rhône was very good for white wine varieties. The season began with a very dry start from January to March. Bud burst was relatively late (early April), while the Mistral winds were often influential from early April to flowering in mid-May. Following some welcoming late-spring rains in May and June, the summer months were warm and arid, reaching a climax of 43°C on August 22nd, and the fierce heat remained until the end of the month. White varieties were picked from mid-to-late-August. It was a season well-suited for vines planted in clay soils, rather than sandy soils. Let's see how this 2023 Côtes du Rhône Blanc is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LES DAUPHINS RÉSERVE CÔTES DU RHÔNE BLANC 2023 - Sustainable, Vegan, AC, France (#18600) (XD) - $14.95
Screw cap. Blend of 50% Grenache Blanc, 40% Viognier, and 10% Marsanne. The medium+ to medium-high intensity nose is open and ripe with lovely yellow apple, pear, and lemon citrus aromas nuanced with white peach, melon, mealy, leesy, and vanilla. The dry, medium+ to medium-full bodied has good weight with delicious, ripe yellow fruit, apple, pear, citrus, leesy, spice, white peach, and vanilla flavours. Gently spicy on the mid-palate along with fresh and juicy acidity. Yellow orchard fruit and leesy notes with touches of vanilla linger on the long, very satisfying finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other delicious Les Dauphins wines are available at the LCBO, and can also be ordered through their Agent - Churchill Cellars Ltd.

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Cantine Povero Campo del Palio Moscato d'Asti 2023 (Piedmont) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a lovely, sweet, semi-sparkling (or frizzante) wine with a lower alcohol content of 5.5% alcohol by volume (abv) from Piedmont. Sustainable and vegan-friendly, this bubbly arrived at the LCBO a few weeks ago in the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on June 21st.

It is produced by Cantine Povero, a winery with roots going back nearly 200 years to 1837 on the lands of Roero, Monferrato, and Langhe, in the heart of Piedmont, Italy. Modern winegrowing entered the picture in 1948, when Bartolomeo Povero (aka Grandfather Tumlin) inherited a vineyard and increased his production by planting his first vineyard. Tumlin felt a strong emotional bond towards his land and was proud to continue the tradition of his ancestors, with the ancient wisdom passed down through the generations.

An excellent vintage in 1964 inspired brothers Giovanni and Michelino Povero, the sons of Tumlin, to produce their first branded bottles of Povero wines, which in turn resulted in expanded sales across Piedmont. In 1976, the brothers acquired their current headquarters at the foot of a medieval castle in the hamlet of San Matteo, within the commune of Cisterna d'Asti, and planted a further 10 hectares of vineyards. In 1987, the third generation of the Povero family expanded the family's business as the sons of Giovanni - Luca, Daniele, and Alessio - established Tenuta Fratelli Povero and produced wines from the oldest vineyards in Roero.

In 1998, the winery was renovated and modernized, along with a focus on organic farming and sustainability, as they installed a photovoltaic system in 2010 to allow the facility to use only renewable energy during the daytime. In 2019, Cantine Povero obtained organic certification for all of their vineyards. A year later, the third and fourth generations of the Povero family began leading the future of the winery with a dedication to both tradition and innovation.

Today, Cantine Povero's philosophy is to carry on the ancient wisdom handed down generation to generation, while innovating in a sustainable approach to agriculture. With a strong commitment to the environment, beginning with Nonno Tumlin and through each generation, they have learned to listen to the seasons and observe with love the branches, bunches, and leaves, and to confidently await the reward for their efforts. They practice organic cultivation without the use of any chemicals, and minimize their use of any treatments by using their innovative weather station to monitor humidity, rainfall, and temperature. Furthermore, they are practicing regenerative agriculture and encourage a diversified and harmonic ecosystem.

This frizzante is crafted with 100% Moscato that was grown in the Asti region of Piedmont. The vines are planted in sandy and clayey soil, and cultivated using the espalier system with Guyot pruning. The grapes were manually harvested, destemmed, and then cooled to 10–12°C before being gently pressed. It was fermented at a controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks.

From a somewhat tough vintage where conditions were seldom steady, let's see how this 2023 Moscato d'Asti from Italy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CANTINE POVERO CAMPO DEL PALIO MOSCATO D'ASTI 2023 - Sustainable, Vegan, DOCG, Piedmont, Italy (#477869) (S) - $16.95
Fresh, medium+ intensity aromas of peach, candied citrus, spring flowers, melon, and Flintstones vitamins, with a twist of orange. Crafted in a frizzante style, the fairly light-weighted palate is clean and refreshing with bright acidity and gentle bubbles lifting the peach, candied citrus, orange, melon, and floral notes in a gently sweet flavour profile. A touch sticky on the finish with well-balanced peach, melon, and candied citrus notes tapering to savoury and leesy notes on the long-lasting finish. Versatile and widely appealing for the patio, dinner table, or with dessert. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Cantine Povero can be ordered through their Agent - Rare Earth Wines.

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Barón de Ley Gran Reserva 2017 (Rioja) - Wine Review

After enjoying the excellent 2015 Barón de Ley Gran Reserva a couple of years ago, tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of this terrific, vegan-friendly Rioja from Spain that returned to the LCBO last month as part of the June 7 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by the prestigious Barón de Ley, a family-owned winery that is situated in a 16th-century monastery on the banks of the Ebro river, where vineyards and winemaking were introduced by monks in 1568. Inspired by French châteaux to craft premium, estate-grown Rioja wines, Barón de Ley was founded at the monastery in 1985, within the Rioja DOCa wine region of Spain. The name 'de ley' comes from the Spanish expression for 'legit', and at Barón de Ley they take care of every little detail to offer in every bottle an excellent, trustworthy wine - a genuinely good Rioja.

In 1990, Barón de Ley launched their first wines, including one of the signature wines of the Estate - this Gran Reserva. Success and growth followed soon thereafter, and by 2000, Barón de Ley renewed their winemaking philosophy with Gonzalo Rodríguez recruited as the new Chief Winemaker. Gonzalo encouraged the planting of new indigenous grape varieties, and further success and expansion followed. By 2008, Barón de Ley owned over 600 hectares of vineyards across the different sub-regions with a variety of microclimates and soils in Rioja. In 2018, Barón de Ley renovated their vinification facilities in order to use state-of-the-art winemaking techniques, while also constructing a new oak ageing cellar to expand their long-ageing capacity, which takes place in traditional French and American oak barrels.

Like the previous vintage, this red wine continues to be composed of Tempranillo and Graciano. The grapes were grown in Barón de Ley's old vineyards of low-yielding vines in Cenicero, Rioja Alta. The vineyard in Cenicero has alluvial calcareous soil, spans 94 hectares, and is situated at an elevation of 450 metres above sea level. At this site, the combination of the Mediterranean climate that is clearly influenced by the Atlantic Ocean, results in elegant wines with great ageing capabilities.

To craft this wine, they hand-harvest and hand-select the bunches, followed by mechanical selection of the berries using their state-of-the-art sorting table, ensuring that only the best grapes are selected with care in order to produce a wine of maximum quality. After undergoing alcoholic fermentation, the wine was aged for a minimum of 24 months in American and French oak casks, followed by a further 36 months in bottle prior to release.

The 2017 vintage in Rioja was rated as 'Very Good'. The growing season began with a dramatic frost in late April, which resulted in significantly lower yields and an extremely short vintage. This was followed up by a lack of rain during the ripening period, along with hot temperatures, which resulted in the earliest picking ever recorded in Rioja. The most difficult part for producers was managing two separate buddings - with the higher acidity from the second budding helping offset the ripeness of the first budding. However, overall quality was good, despite the challenges of the vintage. Let's see how this 2017 Gran Reserva Rioja from Spain is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BARÓN DE LEY GRAN RESERVA 2017 - Vegan, DOCa Rioja, Spain (#642496) (XD) - $32.95
This blend of Tempranillo and Graciano has some initial woodsy and oak aromas, but after that it delivers a fine, fragrant, very complex, and highly aromatic nose of sandalwood, fine wood spices, dried rose florals, red cherry, cedar, and coconut notes accented with savoury earth, leathery, olive, and vanilla. The medium-full bodied palate is dry and ripe with delicious red cherry, dried roses, wood spices, sandalwood, cedar, olive, and coconut flavours. It has tangy, crisp, and juicy acidity, while a touch spicy on the mid-palate with well-integrated, lightly textured tannins. Tangy, wood spices, and olive notes linger on the long, crisp finish. This recommended buy is best enjoyed over the next 4-5 years. Score: 91 pts

One other wine by Barón de Ley is available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Featherstone Rosé 2024 (Niagara) - Wine Review

For tonight's rosé wine review, I sip local with this delicious, just-off-dry Cabernet-Gamay blend from Niagara that was featured as part of the theme on food-friendly rosé wines in the June 7 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Niagara's own Featherstone Estate Winery. This eco-friendly winery was established in the Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation of the Niagara Escarpment in 1999 by Louise Engel and her winemaker husband Dave Johnson. Together, they built Featherstone with a dedication to excellence in food and a passion for wine. In 2024, amidst its 25th anniversary since its inception, Featherstone underwent a transformative purchase and is now owned by philanthropist Rayla Myhal and businessman George Myhal.

While Featherstone may be under new ownership, Rayla and George look to build on the successes of the past. Featherstone continues to craft distinctive, small-batch Niagara wines that are cultivated in soils that reflect the biodiversity of the Niagara Escarpment. Featherstone prides itself as being insecticide-free since the beginning and are practitioners of eco-friendly farming. The philosophy at Featherstone is based on respect for the land, which is at the heart of making wine that is true to its soil and its site. Nutrients and minerals are exchanged and transformed in the give-and-take relationship between living soil organisms and plants, in a mutually beneficial circle where the soil nourishes the vine, while farming practices nurture the soil. In 2023, Featherstone received their Sustainable Winegrowing Ontario (SWO) certification.

This rosé is crafted in a just off-dry (i.e. slightly sweet) style using 46.7% Gamay, 42.2% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 11.1% Cabernet Franc. The grapes were machine harvested over 16 days in the middle of October, then optically sorted, crushed, and de-stemmed. The grapes underwent a cold soak maceration on skins for 24 hours and were then pressed and transferred into stainless steel fermentation tanks. After 8 hours of juice flotation settling, it was then racked off gross lees. It was fermented with the commercial yeast strain Actiflore Rosé at a controlled temperature of 15°C and bottled in early February.

The growing season in 2024 in Niagara had perfect conditions from early budbreak to the warm and late fall that allowed for long hang time of the grape bunches, especially for the Bordeaux red varieties. Summer was marked by above-average temperatures, with warm days and warmer-than-usual evenings, which meant a reduced diurnal temperature range and resulted in grapes with intense flavours and colour development. It was a drama-free growing season for the thick-skinned grapes such as the Bordeaux varieties, which weathered the rain and allowed picking to occur at a leisurely pace in the fall. There were also no issues with Gamay. From an excellent vintage, let's see how this 2024 Rosé from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

FEATHERSTONE ROSÉ 2024 - Sustainable, Vegan, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#117861) (D) - $16.95
Enclosed by Stelvin screw cap, this blend of 46.7% Gamay, 42.2% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 11.1% Cabernet Franc pours a fairly deep pink colour with orange accents. The ripe, fragrant, medium-high intensity nose delivers candied red berry, strawberry-rhubarb, red apple, red cherry, watermelon, and honey aromas, plus touches of stony minerals. It's fairly light-weighted on the palate with spice notes joining the candied red berry, cherry, strawberry-rhubarb, and watermelon flavours. It has clean, fresh, and vibrant acidity, along with a slightly chalky textured mouthfeel. While a touch sweet on the mid-palate, this tapers to tangy red berry, savoury, leesy minerals, and spice notes on the dry, juicy, and lengthy finish. A crowd-pleasing, recommended buy. Score: 88+ pts

Many other delicious wines by Featherstone can be found at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered direct from the winery.

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