Chateau St. Jean Cinq Cépages 2017 (Sonoma) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine reviews is an excellent Cabernet Sauvignon blend from Sonoma County that arrived at the LCBO as part of the August LCBO VINTAGES Cellar Collection Release and is now available at several stores across Ontario. It will make a fine gift for the holidays or a nice addition to your cellar.

It is produced by Chateau St. Jean, an iconic Chateau that dates back to the 1920's, but whose story as a top wine producer began in 1973 when the three founders of the estate purchased the northern Sonoma Valley property. Their vision for the property was to create wines that captured the nuance, character, and quality of Sonoma's distinct vineyards and growing regions. The founders, Robert and Edward Merzoian, and Kenneth Sheffield, who were San Joaquin Valley table grape growers and shippers, named the winery after the only woman who was "saintly" enough to keep the three of them in line, Jean Sheffield Merzoian, sister-in-law, wife, and sister to the owners.

The Chateau was built by the Goff family, who had established their family fortune in the iron ore mines of Michigan's Upper Peninsula and Pacific Northwest lumber. They came to California in 1916 and purchased 300 acres of land in the Valley of the Moon area of Sonoma County, California. Construction of the Goff family summer home - now the Chateau - began in 1920, and white wine grapes were grown on the property. The living room of the home is now the Reserve Tasting Room in the Chateau.

After founding the winery in 1973, they had their first vintage a year later, and produced wines on the property for the first time in 1975 with Dick Arrowood as Chateau St. Jean's first winemaker. In 1980, the founders built a brand new winery in Kenwood, California, that was designed from the ground up to accommodate the numerous grape parcels and keep them separate throughout the winemaking process, ensuring that vineyard designation stayed pure. In 1999, Chateau St. Jean was acquired by Treasury Wine Estates, and a year later they opened a new Visitor Centre and Gardens, which features a statue of Jean in the main courtyard garden by the pool.

In 2021, Foley Family Wines acquired Chateau St. Jean from the Americas division of Treasury Wine Estates. A year later, they welcomed Winemaker Niki Williams, the company's fifth winemaker, while also undergoing renovations that included rebuilding the destemmer, crush pad, and presses, as well as upgrading the gardens and surrounding facilities to improve the visitor experience.

With a proud history and having set the standard for excellence in Sonoma County winemaking, Chateau St. Jean celebrates 50 years in 2023. Some of these achievements for excellence in wine include the 1996 Cinq Cépages being awarded the wine of the year in Wine Spectator's Top 100 list, while the 1999 vintage was awarded second place. In 2008, Winemaker Margo Van Staaveren was also awarded Winemaker of the Year by Wine Enthusiast Magazine.

This Cinq Cépages, which translates to "Five Grape Varieties", is the flagship wine of Chateau St. Jean. First introduced in 1990, it is crafted in a Bordeaux-style blend with Cabernet Sauvignon the main variety. To craft this wine, Winemaker Margo Van Staaveren, who joined Chateau St. Jean in 1980 and became Winemaker in 2003, selected the best fruit from outstanding and proven Bordeaux varietal vineyards that showcase the very best of Sonoma County. In this vintage, it is a blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec, and 1% Petit Verdot, with 46% of the fruit coming from Knights Valley, an area which highlights boysenberry flavours and elegant tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon from the Monte Rosso and Mountain Terraces Vineyards on Moon Mountain add structure, while Merlot from the Louvau Vineyard in Dry Creek adds lush juiciness and texture. The Malbec comes from Chateau St. Jean's Estate Vineyard in Sonoma Valley, while some fruit is also from Stuhlmuller Vineyard in Alexander Valley, which brings savoury, dried herb, and bright berry notes. After vinification, the wine was aged for 20 months in French oak (68% new). It was bottled in January 2020 and released in October.

The 2017 growing season began with abundant rainfall, followed by a mild spring that resulted in extended flowering. Warm late-summer temperatures moved harvest along quickly, while yields for the 2017 vintage were slightly lower than the previous couple of vintages. While the 2017 vintage was challenging, the wines that were produced are of excellent quality with complex flavours, concentrated colour, and finesse. Let's see how this 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon blend from Sonoma is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHATEAU ST. JEAN CINQ CÉPAGES 2017 - Sonoma County, California, USA (#710913) (XD) - $130
Blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec, and 1% Petit Verdot. Rich and elegant, the fragrant, medium-high intensity nose delivers lush, complex, ripe, dark fruited, blackberry, black and red currant, fine oak spices, grilled herb, and earth aromas with touches of boysenberry and floral. It's full-bodied with ripe black and red currant, cassis, blackberry, savoury oak spice, earth, peppery spice, grilled herb flavours surrounding a savoury core. It's framed by fresh, juicy acidity and elegant, yet firmly structured, fine-grained tannins. It's a touch palate warming, but still balanced. Savoury and earthy with graphite notes linger on the exceptionally long finish. Provides immense pleasure now, but will reward cellaring. Enjoy to 2035+. Highly recommended buy! Score: 94 pts

Other fine wines from Chateau St. Jean's large portfolio can be found at the LCBO, or ordered through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.