Henri Champliau Brut Crémant de Bourgogne Rosé (France) - Wine Review (Aug. 2021)

Tonight's wine review is a lovely pink Crémant from Burgundy that is a new arrival to the LCBO this weekend. This Traditional Method sparkling wine is featured in the "Taste Wine Like A Pro" theme in the August 21 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Henri Champliau, a family winery located in the village of Mercurey, in the heart of the Côte Chalonnaise sub-region of Burgundy. It was founded by Alexandre Graffard, the grandson of Henri Champliau. Alexandre's grandfather was a man who was passionate about his region of Burgundy and the riches it offered. He loved fine food, great wines, and owned vineyards in Mercurey, while always taking time to share his passion with Alexandre and others in the family. Alexandre's interest in wine started when he was 7 years old and today has an absolute admiration for the terroir and craftsmanship of Burgundy.

Henri Champliau produces only sparkling wines of Crémant de Bourgogne appellation, as well as a pair of Signature Cuvées that pay homage to Henri's passion for horse racing as a breeder and owner. They seek to craft wines of elegance, clarity, strength, and freshness. In order to achieve this level of quality, they pay great attention to the blend selection, respect the time spent maturing in the cellar, and use precise dosage quantities.

This non-vintage traditional method sparkling wine is crafted with fruit primarily from the 2016 vintage from vineyard plots dedicated to the production of Crémant de Bourgogne. The vines in these plots are worked specifically to obtain the best possible base wines, including limiting yields. The grapes are harvested by hand, gently pressed, and the bases are then vinified separately. To create their house style of wines, the base wines are meticulously blended, then bottled, while respecting the traditional method of second fermentation to create the bubbles and aged for a minimum of 12 months. To complete the wine, they carry out disgorgement, dosage, and finally label the bottles. This particular bubbly is predominantly Pinot Noir, which brings elegance and strength, and is joined by the freshness of Chardonnay, and the generosity and delicacy of Gamay, and was aged on its lees for at least a year. Let's see how this rosé sparkling wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

HENRI CHAMPLIAU BRUT CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE ROSÉ - Traditional method, AC, Burgundy, France (#20945) (XD) - $24.95
This blend of approximately 75% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay, and 10% Gamay has a pretty, salmon-pink colour. The focused, intense nose offers fragrant toasty and brioche aromas accented with grapefruit, citrus, floral, and red berry notes. The crisp and dry palate has good weight along with fresh, vibrant acidity and bubbles. Appealing grapefruit, citrus, floral, red berry, and brioche flavours with a fine mineral texture. Elegant and nicely balanced overall with leesy mineral and brioche notes lingering on the long finish. Highly recommended dry sparkling wine. Lot #L1832-4HC. Score: 91 pts

Other lovely sparkling wines from Henri Champliau can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Closerie des Alisiers Bourgogne Chardonnay 2019 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a lovely, unoaked Chardonnay from Burgundy. It's a new arrival to the LCBO that's included in the August 21st LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Closerie des Alisiers wines are produced by Stéphane Brocard, son of renowned Chablisian winegrower Jean-Marc Brocard. in 2007, Stéphane moved to Marsannay and founded his Trading House. In addition to owning his own vineyards, he also works with the same winegrowers and plots who share his philosophy to create authentic wines based on purity of fruit, freshness, and great respect for the terroir and environment.

In Burgundy, the concept of clos is very old, with the first clos appearing in the 7th century. The stone walls that formed a clos were initially of religious influence, but also made it possible to retain the soil gave personality to each Burgundy estate. A Closerie is a small clos, a small property surrounded by walls or hedges.

This Chardonnay was crafted using fruit from various regional appellations within Burgundy, from vines averaging 25 years of age that were farmed using Reasoned Agriculture. It was vinified in Burgundian tradition by sorting in the vineyard (or table), then pressing and settling, followed by fermentation in stainless steel vats to preserve freshness, fruit, and minerality of the terroirs. Typical for white Burgundy, this Chardonnay has no oak contact.

The 2019 vintage in Burgundy is described by many as "one of the best ever" due to the long, hot and dry summer, yielding ripe and concentrated fruit to produce rich and deeply aromatic wines. Let's see how this 2019 Bourgogne is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CLOSERIE DES ALISIERS BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY 2019 - AC Burgundy, France (#20911) (XD) - $18.95
This unoaked Chardonnay has a rich, deep nose that delivers generous aromas of lemon citrus, white flowers, and earthy mineral with hints of ripe stone fruit, apple, and white peach. On the medium+ bodied, it has lovely ripe yellow fruit, citrus, earthy mineral, apple and floral flavours framed by bright acidity. Hints of honey and yellow plum join the mineral, citrus, and apple notes on the spicy mid-palate. Excellent length on the long, minerally finish. Highly recommended buy. Score: 90 pts

Other lovely wines by Stéphane Brocard are available through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Domaine Hamelin Beauroy Chablis 1er Cru 2018 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is this lovely Premier Cru Chablis that arrives in LCBO VINTAGES this weekend. This white wine is featured in the November 28 LCBO VINTAGES Release as a Top Holiday Wine and is indeed just that!

I have had the pleasure of tasting this wine on a couple of occasions in the past, including the 2014 Domaine Hamelin Beauroy Chablis 1er Cru when it came through VINTAGES in 2016. It is crafted by Domaine Hamelin, a producer whose roots begin in 1840 when Gustave Hamelin grew 2 hectares of vines alongside his mixed farm. In 1880, Pierre Hamelin grew 3 hectares of vines alongside his farm, using his mule to help work the vines. At the time, the wine was held in 132 Litre barrels, giving rise to their name "feuillette", or little cask. The wines were sold in these containers and transported by river. In 1911, Georges Hamelin extends the property to grow 4 hectares of vines and working them by horse. In 1948, they began using a mechanical horizontal press and 5 years later started using a high-clearance tractor. Marc Hamelin created his own vineyard and then added the area he inherited from his father, while also building a new vat room.

Today, Thierry and his son Charles Hamelin, the 6th and 7th generations of the family continue winegrowing activities, perpetuating the Chablis wine tradition. The main focus is to keep the "flavour" of the terroir while using a mix of old traditions and modern winemaking techniques.

This Premier Cru Chablis is 100% Chardonnay that was grown on very steep, south-facing slopes, that extend from the bottom of the valley to the top. The vines were planted between 1980 and 1982 and have Kimmeridgian subsoil. It was aged for 12 to 18 months in stainless steel vats prior to bottling. The 2018 vintage in Chablis has been hailed by some as "one for the ages". It has a rare combination of high volume and high quality. It started with greater water reserves in the soil from which the vines drew water during the hot summer months. The presence of fog and dew each morning also added juice to vines. During harvest, the fruit was also picked with grapes in perfect balance.

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE HAMELIN BEAUROY CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2018 - AC, Burgundy, France (#391805) (XD) - $39.95
From vines planted in the early 1980's on very steep, south-facing slopes, this unoaked Chardonnay has intense, terroir-driven, minerally aromas mingling with ripe, lemon citrus and touches of oyster shell, white floral, and acacia. It's medium+ bodied on the fresh, ripe palate with stony, lemon citrus flavours with hints of peach. It's nicely textured with fresh, bright acids that are crisp and clean. Some nutty and mealy notes arrive on the mid-palate, adding complexity and interest, lingering through to the long, juicy, textured, stony, oyster shell finish. Highly recommended buy. Score: 92 pts

Other fine wines from Domaine Hamelin can be ordered via their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Henri de Villamont Chablis 2018 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a lovely Chablis that arrives at LCBO as part of the August 8, 2020 LCBO VINTAGES Release - and is available for purchase in many stores already.

The story of Domaine Henri de Villamont begins in the late 19th century when Léonce Bocquet built a winery for vinification and aging his wines in Savigny les Beaune, Burgundy. The structures that were built in 1880 took 8 years to build, and the underground cellars are still in use today! The winery has had many different owners over the years and became Henri de Villamont in 1964 after it was purchased by Schenk, a Swiss familial group.

Over the next 40 years, the Schenk family grew Henri de Villamont to produce 20 million bottles of wine per year. However, in 2004 they decided to scale back and produce fewer bottles, but of higher quality wine by completely renovating the winery and using the best oenological tools that offered high performance and efficiency. In order to achieve these new goals, Pierre Jhean became the new Director and Winemaker in 2005 and still leads the team today. Pierre is an oenologist from nearby Meursault, where his family still runs an estate, and aims to produce a complete range of outstanding Burgundian wines that respect the old traditions of winemaking in Burgundy, express terroir, and offer modernity.

Henri de Villamont, whose Agent is Eurovintage Wines & Spirits, has a relatively large presence at the LCBO, with many of the 13 wines available at the higher end of the price spectrum. I have tasted quite a few wines from Henri de Villamont over the years, including some really fine high-end wines, but I believe this is my first time tasting their Chablis. Let's see how this Chardonnay is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

HENRI DE VILLAMONT CHABLIS 2018 - AC, Burgundy, France (#13131) (XD) - $27.95
The medium-high intensity nose of this Chardonnay is enticing with leesy and lemony aromas accented by nutty and mineral notes. The medium-full bodied palate is ripe and creamy with lemon, apple, spice, and leesy flavours with touches of nut. Acids are juicy while oyster shell and stony mineral notes linger on the long, slightly hot finish. Chill well and enjoy! Score: 90 pts

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March 21, 2020 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: Classic Euro Regions + Okanagan + Annapolis

In these extraordinary times with COVID-19 at top of mind, this post seems almost irrelevant in the grand scheme of things. However, since the LCBO is still open (with reduced hours as of Thursday, March 19) and I think we would all like to step back and take a breather from all of the Coronavirus pandemic news, the next batch of new wines arriving at the LCBO are from the March 21, 2020 LCBO VINTAGES Release. The main theme of the Release focuses on wines from Classic Euro Regions, while the mini-theme looks at the Canadian wine regions of the Okanagan and Annapolis Valleys. So long as LCBO outlets remain open, the new wines from this Release will be on shelves across Ontario by this Saturday.

We begin with the main theme that looks at eleven classic wine regions of Europe: Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, Rhône, Loire, Rioja, Tuscany, Veneto, Piedmont, Mosel, and Port. These are some of the world's most venerable and venerated wine regions, and with twenty wines featured as part of this theme, six are included among my top wine picks. From Hautes-Côtes de Beaune in Burgundy is a Pinot Noir, while the Champagne is a blend of 52% Pinot Noir and 48% Chardonnay. Also from France, there are a pair of very nice Rhône reds - the Côtes du Rhône is a blend of 70% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre, and 15% Syrah, while the Châteauneuf-du-Pape is also primarily Grenache with Mourvedre and Syrah completing the blend. From Italy, the Amarone from Veneto consists of 70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, and 5% Molinara. Last but not least, there is a very nice Riesling Kabinett from the Mosel.

The mini-feature on wines from the Okanagan (British Columbia) and Annapolis (Nova Scotia) Valleys features a combined total of just five wines. While none of the wines from the mini-theme made my list of wine picks, there are a couple of noteworthy wines such as the Burrowing Owl Merlot ($40, #585737) from British Columbia, and the now-iconic Benjamin Bridge Nova 7 Sparkling ($25, #256289) sweet bubbly from Nova Scotia.

From my red wine picks, the Portuguese red is a blend of 35% Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), 25% Tinta Barroca, 25% Touriga Franca, and 15% Touriga Nacional, while the red from South Africa is made with 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cinsaut, 12% Petit Verdot, 10% Malbec, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Merlot. The last red that is a blend is the 2010 Rioja that consists of 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, and 5% Maturana. The rest of the reds are all single varietal wines made with Garnacha from Spain, Cabernet Franc from Niagara, Malbec from Argentina, and a Shiraz and Pinot Noir that are both from Australia.

Among my top white wine picks, the white wine from Greece is a blend of 60% Malagouzia, 20% Asyrtiko, and 20% Chardonnay, while the White Meritage from Niagara consists of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon. There are a pair of delightful single varietal white wines from Italy - Grillo and Greco. Lastly, there are a pair of delicious Rieslings - an off-dry version from Alsace, and a medium-sweet version from Niagara.

In sparkling wines, the Cava is a blend of 65% Parellada, 20% Xarel-lo, and 15% Macabeu, while the fortified wine from Niagara is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet, and Shiraz that was fortified with a Cabernet Franc brandy.

Enjoy my wine recommendations from this Release! Cheers and stay safe!

Red Wine:

• EL VIVERO DE USALDÓN COLECCIÓN ORIGEN GARNACHA 2018 - Finca Casa Balaguer, DO Alicante, Spain (#13624) (XD) - $15.95
• CASA FERREIRINHA PAPA FIGOS TINTO 2018 - DOC Douro, Portugal (#11157) (XD) - $15.95
• CAVE SPRING CABERNET FRANC 2017 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#523001) (XD) - $17.95
• YALUMBA ORGANIC SHIRAZ 2018 - South Australia (#280883) (XD) - $17.95
• ANDELUNA ANDUCO LIMITED EDITION MALBEC 2017 - Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina (#12025) (XD) - $19.95
• XAVIER VIEILLES VIGNES CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2016 - AC, Rhône, France (#12987) (XD) - $20.95

• INNOCENT BYSTANDER PINOT NOIR 2018 - Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia (#178897) (XD) - $22.95  89 pts  wine review
• LE RICHE RICHESSE 2016 - WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#13320) (XD) - $23.95
• DOMAINE MAZILLY PÈRE & FILS CLOS DU BOIS PRÉVOT BOURGOGNE HAUTES-CÔTES DE BEAUNE 2017 - AC, Burgundy, France (#11904) (XD) - $28.95
• CONDE DE VALDEMAR GRAN RESERVA 2010 - DOCa Rioja, Spain (#960427) (XD) - $29.95
• LA FERME DU MONT VENDANGE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2017 - AP, Rhône, France (#309245) (D) - $52.95
• MICHELE CASTELLANI CINQUE STELLE AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2015 - Collezione Ca' del Pipa, DOCG, Veneto, Italy (#75127) (D) - $53.95

White Wine:

• GÉRARD BERTRAND RÉSERVE SPÉCIALE VIOGNIER 2018 - IGP Pays d'Oc, Roussillon, France (#147975) (XD) - $14.95
• MEGA SPILEO CUVÉE III WHITE 2018 - PGI Achaia, Greece (#14186) (XD) - $17.95
• GORGHI TONDI COSTE A PREOLA GRILLO 2018 - DOC Sicilia, Italy (#11670) (XD) - $17.95  88 pts  wine review
• CATENA ZAPATA APPELLATION TUPUNGATO CHARDONNAY 2017 - Tupungato, Mendoza, Argentina (#10964) (XD) - $19.95
• ADAMO FOXCROFT RIESLING 2017 - Grower's Series, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#11236) (M) - $19.95
• RUHLMANN VIEILLES VIGNES COTEAU DU BLETTIG RIESLING 2016 - AC Alsace, France (#10722) (D) - $21.95
• MONTEMAJOR GRECO DI TUFO 2018 - DOCG, Campania, Italy (#10955) (XD) - $23.95
• JACKSON-TRIGGS GRAND RESERVE WHITE MERITAGE 2018 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#360297) (XD) - $25.95
• DR. LOOSEN ERDENDER TREPPCHEN RIESLING KABINETT 2017 - Prädikatswein, Mosel, Germany (#393181) (S) - $29.95

Sparkling Wine:

• STARS BRUT NATURE RESERVA CAVA 2016 - Traditional method, DO, Spain (#515221) (D) - $16.95
• THIRTY BENCH SPARKLING RIESLING - Traditional method, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#469478) (XD) - $38.95
• PIPER-HEIDSIECK BRUT CHAMPAGNE 2012 - AC, France (#409326) (XD) - $79.95

Fortified:

• UNION FORTÉ 2012 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#361758) (S) (500 mL) - $17.95

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March 7, 2020 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: California + Burgundy

I just returned from a lovely vacation in New Zealand where I also visited some wineries in Marlborough, Hawke's Bay, Waiheke Island, and Auckland - stay tuned for more about my visit. In the meantime, wines from the March 7, 2020 LCBO VINTAGES Release arrived on shelves across Ontario last Saturday. This Release features wines from two premium winegrowing regions - California is the main theme, while Burgundy is the mini-theme.

Of the twelve wines featured as part of the theme on California wines, there are a few solid gold offerings that are consistently top-quality wines. However, just one wine made my list of wine picks - a lovely Cabernet Sauvignon (which also includes 2% Petit Verdot & 2% Malbec) from the Red Hills Lake County AVA, just north of Napa Valley, that is planted on red volcanic soils that are shot through with obsidian rock.

The mini-theme seeks to find bargains in Burgundy - with some pretty good success as three of the seven wines featured are included among my wine recommendations. All three of my recommendations are white wines, with one made with Aligoté. The other two wines are both made with Chardonnay - one is a 1er Cru Chablis, while the other is from Montagny.

From my top red wine picks from this Release, the Saint-Roch is a blend of 80% Syrah and 20% Grenache from 60-year-old vines. From Italy, the Riserva Chianti Classico is made with 100% Sangiovese, while the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva is made with a minimum of 70% Sangiovese (Prugnolo Gentile) and a maximum of 30% of Canaiolo. From Bordeaux, the Saint-Émilion Grand Cru is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc.

Among my white wine recommendations, there is only one blend - a 68% Sauvignon Blanc and 32% Semillon combination from Australia. For sweet wine lovers, the Kew Riesling from Niagara is off-dry, while the Tawse Riesling further amps up the sweetness levels.

Enjoy my top wine recommendations from this Release! Cheers!

Red Wine:

• QUINTA DAS CARVALHAS RED BLEND 2015 - DOC Douro, Portugal (#11150) (XD) - $13.95
• SAINT-ROCH VIEILLES VIGNES SYRAH / GRENACHE 2017 - AP Côtes du Roussillon, France (#195107) (XD) - $16.95
• DOMAINE TOURNON MATHILDA CHAPOUTIER SHIRAZ 2017 - Victoria, Australia (#327395) (XD) - $18.95
• TABALÍ VETAS BLANCAS SYRAH 2016 - Viñedo Espinal, DO Limarí Valley, Chile (#213538) (XD) - $19.95
• CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES ST. DAVID'S BENCH VINEYARD GAMAY NOIR DROIT 2017 - VQA St. David's Bench, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (#346742) (XD) - $19.95
• ROCKCLIFFE THIRD REEF SHIRAZ 2017 - Great Southern, Western Australia (#453209) (XD) - $19.95

• REVEREND V MOUNT BARKER SYRAH 2017 - Great Southern, Western Australia (#13175) (XD) - $21.95
• EL ENEMIGO CABERNET FRANC 2015 - Mendoza, Argentina (#11813) (XD) - $23.95  89 pts  wine review
• SAN FELICE IL GRIGIO RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2015 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#716266) (XD) - $29.95  91 pts  wine review
• HIDDEN BENCH ESTATE ORGANIC PINOT NOIR 2017 - Unfiltered, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#274753) (XD) - $34.95  91 pts  wine review
• CARPINETO VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO RISERVA 2015 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#368910) (D) - $34.95  91 pts  wine review
• OBSIDIAN RIDGE ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017 - Obsidian Ridge Vineyard, Red Hills, Lake County, California, USA (#544940) (XD) - $49.95
• CHÂTEAU SIMARD 2015 - AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France (#12090) (XD) - $49.95

White Wine:

• PAUL MAS SINGLE VINEYARD COLLECTION RESERVE VIOGNIER 2018 - Nicole Vineyard, IGP Pays d'Oc, Midi, France (#370098) (XD) - $13.95
• KEW OLD VINE RIESLING 2015 - VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#392126) (D) - $15.95
• CHARLES MONTSERAT BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ 2018 - AC, Burgundy, France (#12026) (XD) - $16.95
• ABRAS TORRONTÉS 2017 - Cafayate Valley, Salta, Argentina (#10965) (XD) - $16.95
• SKUTTLEBUTT SAUVIGNON BLANC / SEMILLON 2018 - Margaret River, Western Australia (#47621) (XD) - $18.95
• ESK VALLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#12638) (XD) - $21.95
• TAWSE QUARRY ROAD ORGANIC RIESLING 2018 - VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#198853) (M) - $24.95
• LA CHABLISIENNE VAILLONS CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2016 - AC, Burgundy, France (#11900) (XD) - $27.95
• JOSEPH DROUHIN MONTAGNY 2017 - AC, Burgundy, France (#11903) (XD) - $32.95
• GREYWACKE WILD SAUVIGNON 2016 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#282806) (XD) - $38.95  FE

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Closerie des Alisiers Bourgogne Aligoté 2017 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a lovely white wine that is made using Burgundy's other white wine varietal - Aligoté - and will be arriving on VINTAGES shelves this weekend as part of the August 17th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Stéphane Brocard, son of famed Chablis winemaker Jean-Marc Brocard. Closerie des Alisiers was founded by Stéphane when he settled in Marsannay (south Dijon) in 2007. In addition to working his own vines in Pommard and in the old wine village of Daix, Stéphane has also been working for years with the same growers and on the same plots for the wines he sources according to his philosophy that focuses on purity, fruit and freshness. He likes to produce genuine wines while having respect for terroir and environment. Stéphane's main objective is to highlight terroirs through the each grape variety.

This white wine was vinified in stainless steel vats and made in order keep in line with his philosophy to preserve the purity of the fruit, minerality and freshness. Ageing for 6 to 9 months and malolactic fermentation also occurred in stainless steel vats.

Tasting Note:

CLOSERIE DES ALISIERS BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ 2017 - AC, Burgundy, France (#557728) (XD) - $18.95
The medium+ intensity nose offers enticing aromas of apple and lime citrus mingling with flinty minerality. It is medium+ bodied, a touch creamy, and quite fleshy with good fruit concentration on the palate. Nicely balanced with more flavours of apple and lime citrus with a distinct oyster shell note. It has crisp and fresh acidity, while the finish is long and minerally. Recommended buy. Score: 89 pts

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Minerality: The Enigmatic Symbol of Chablis

Chablis is a cool-climate wine region located in the northernmost wine district in Burgundy, France. The Chablis appellation was established in 1938 and only produces white wines made with one grape varietal - Chardonnay. The wines are known for their purity, expressiveness, and minerality.

Chardonnay becomes Chablis because it is a wine that reflects its environment like nowhere else on earth. When I think of Chablis, it brings to mind images of chalky, mineral-rich clay soils that lay beneath the region’s most coveted vineyards.

We know that minerality is not a simple transference from place to taste, or rock to glass, but we do know that soils are the foundation of all great wine regions. The soil is the birthplace of a process that transforms the fruit into an image of its substratum. It is a complex and holistic transformation that takes place and delivers flavours such as granite, slate, limestone or flint in wine.

When visiting Chablis, you will notice that the remarkably chalky soils and the scent of wet organic matter seem very much in line with what can be sensed in the glass. Because the soils are distinctive in their varying abilities to retain humidity, thus allows the roots of the vine to penetrate deep into the soil and extract nutrients. Moreover, because the Chablis soils are nutrient poor, this forces the vines to go very deep into the substratum - playing an important, yet indirect role in creating the characteristic impression of minerality in wine.

In Chablis, the two distinctive soil types that influence the wine's foundational elements are of Kimmeridgian and Portlandian origin, which can be traced back to 160 million years ago during the Upper Jurassic age when the sea withdrew the area. The older soils are Kimmeridgian and contain the highest degree of mineral-rich clay, along with marine fossils resulting in high chalky content, resulting in the minerality we perceive so often in the wines of Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru, and Chablis Grand Cru. Furthermore, the cool-climate of Chablis allows the natural expression of minerality. To preserve this minerality and let the fruit express its terroir, winemakers in Chablis use new wood sparingly during vinification and aging.

Minerality in Chablis wines can be described texturally or aromatically as being part of one of three categories of sensations that are derived from the sea (Marine), earth (Terrene), or those that are smoky. The Marine sensations will evoke notions of iodine, brine, oyster shell, sea breeze, or sea salt. Terrene senations can be described as chalk, flint, gunpowder, wet stone, or damp soil. Lastly, the Smoky sensations can be described as sulfur (matchstick) or smoky (smoked black tea). And finally, you will notice fine textural sensations in the wines of Chablis due to the interplay between the brilliant acidity and minerality.

There are four classification tiers among the vineyards of Chablis. Ranging from lowest to highest tier, they are the following:

• Petit Chablis - 1030 ha of stressed vines located on the more eroded sites at the top of the plateau above Chablis. The wines are fresh and friendly with a delicate fruity character.
• Chablis - Established in 1938 and is the most vast and productive appellation with 3564 ha. The Kimmeridgian soils give Chablis its telltale minerality.
• Chablis Premier Cru - Contained within Chablis, there are 783 ha of vines which are divided into 40 Climats who are historically significant in their ability to create wines of superior quality.
• Chablis Grand Cru - Only 102 ha of vines are planted in Grand Cru designated territories, and all are located on the eastern end of the town of Chablis on south-western facing slope. Many of these wines are aged in (primarily older) oak barrels that add complexities while still allowing minerality to shine.

Here are a couple of fine examples of Chablis that showcase the region's famed minerality. The first wine is a lovely Chablis Premier (1er) Cru, while the second wine is a Chablis. Both of these recently arrived at the LCBO and are available for purchase in the VINTAGES section. To learn more about Chablis, please visit the Pure Chablis wines website.

Tasting Notes:

DOMAINE LAROCHE VIEILLES VIGNES LES VAILLONS CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2017 - AC, Burgundy, France (#991893) (XD) - $39.95
From deeply rooted, old vines within Les Vaillons vineyard that sits on a sunny slope on the left bank with limestone marls and Kimmeridgian limestone soils. Fragrant nose delivers earthy, leesy, chalky mineral notes inter-mingling with lemon citrus and orchard fruit. Nutty and smoky notes add complexity as it warms in the glass. The medium-full bodied palate is concentrated and structured with juicy, finely tuned citrusy acids balancing the citrus, honeysuckle, chalky and salty mineral flavours. It's nicely textured with a slightly chalky mouthfeel and more minerally on the mid-palate. Oyster shell, lemon citrus, and honeysuckle notes linger on the smooth, long finish. Arrived in LCBO VINTAGES June 8. Score: 92 pts

GUEGUEN CHABLIS 2017 - AC, Burgundy, France (#524934) (XD) - $27.95
Grown on Kimmeridgian clay soils from the upper Jurassic age, this has a medium+ intensity nose offering lemon citrus and earthy mineral aromas along with hints of peach and chalky limestone notes. The vibrant, mid-weighted palate has good fruit, delivering crisp, juicy acidity and nicely balanced aroma replays with a fine mineral streak on the mid-palate. Citrus and mineral notes linger on the long finish, plus hints of mango and mandarin adding interest and complexity. Arrived in LCBO VINTAGES April 27. Score: 90 pts

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Closerie des Alisiers Petit Chablis 2016 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's lovely little white wine is a Petit Chablis that arrived as a new release into LCBO VINTAGES on November 10.

It is produced by Stéphane Brocard, the son of a Chablis winemaker. He settled in Marsannay in 2007 and founded Closerie des Alisiers to craft wines of purity, fruit, and freshness, while respecting the land and environment, and highlighting the terroir for each wine.

In addition to work in his own vines, he has worked with some selected winegrowers throughout Burgundy over many years, carefully selecting small parcels of grapes. He has worked with many of these growers to establish organic farming practices. The grapes for this particular wine were hand-harvested at peak maturity and direct pressed, followed by fermenting and ageing exclusively in stainless steel tanks.

Tasting Note:

CLOSERIE DES ALISIERS PETIT CHABLIS 2016 - AC, Burgundy, France (#557769) (XD) - $25.95
Fermented and aged completely in tank, this unoaked Chardonnay has a fresh and fragrant nose with lemon and citrus with hints of white peach and leesy notes. It is light-to-medium bodied on the palate with more lemon, citrus, ripe apple, and white peach flavours with a fine mineral underpinning. Some grapefruit and floral notes arrive with air, adding complexity. Nicely balanced with clean, crisp, and bright acids providing freshness. Fine mineral and apple notes linger on the long aftertaste. Score: 89 pts

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Pure Chablis Escape Room Experience - May 2018

Earlier this spring, I was invited to a very interesting Escape Room Experience that was all about Chablis. The event was held on a fine spring day at Brassaii Restaurant and Lounge in the King West neighbourhood in downtown Toronto, and our team consisted of approximately a dozen members from the local wine community.

After a brief introduction and going over the rules of the game, we were led inside the wine-themed Escape Room. Inside sat a large table with various wine paraphernalia, books, jigsaw puzzles, and other items resting upon it. There were also clues on the walls and around the rest of room to help us in our quest. The end goal was to unlock the combination lock on the bottle of Chablis and reveal the message inside to escape the room. The clock started and we had about 1 hour to solve the puzzle. Solving one clue took us to the next stage of the game, and the previous clue often helped in solving the next puzzle. We did ask for assistance on a couple of occasions - which we were allowed to do as per the rules. A combination of wine knowledge and excellent team work prevailed, as we were able to solve the puzzle with about 15 minutes to spare.

At the conclusion of the game, we "Escaped" to the main dining hall and got to the business of tasting some very fine Chablis, beginning with the 2015 Bouchard Pere & Fils Petit Chablis ($24.95, #051466, 88 pts) as an apertif. We sat down at the long dining table and were led through the tasting by Christian Moreau from Domaine Christian Moreau Père & Fils, one of oldest and most respected names in Chablis.

Christian actually lived in Canada for 11 years, before returning to Chablis with his Canadian wife and their three sons in 1972. Under the guiding hand of his father Guy, Christian began to learn and master the art of winemaking, and we got to taste an excellent Grand Cru Chablis that bore his name.

After we tasted all the wines, we were offered a lovely spread of appetizers that paired very nicely with Chablis. My favourite was the jumbo garlic shrimp - so yummy that I can't recall how many I had and almost felt like I could skip dinner at home.

In all, we tasted seven wines, and wine reviews of my four favourites are provided below. Thank you to everyone involved with putting on such a fun event with some lovely wines! Santé!

Tasting Notes:

LA CHABLISIENNE CHABLIS LES VÉNÉRABLES 2014 - AC, Burgundy, France (#215525) (XD) - $26.95
Pleasant medium-high intensity nose leads with limestone mineral aromas followed by clean lemon/lime, citrus zest, and herbally notes. It's medium-to-full bodied on the palate with brightly lit acids and very nice aroma replays. There is some creaminess mid-palate, but is balanced with clean acids. Nicely balanced overall with a long, elegant finish. Classy and refined. Agent: Vinexx. Score: 90 pts

DOMAINE DE LA MOTTE CHABLIS 1ER CRU BEAUROY 2015 - AC, Burgundy, France (#524306) (XD) - $42.95
Highly aromatic and richly concentrated aromas of lemon, lime, herbs, and stony mineral. Acids are lively on the full-bodied palate with very nice aroma replays. Mineral character comes for the fore on the mid-palate and lingers on the long finish, with excellent length. Will be even better in 2-3 years. Agent: The World Winery. Score: 91 pts

DOMAINE PINSON CHABLIS 1ER CRU MONT DE MILIEU 2015 - AC, Burgundy, France (#700914) (XD) - $52.95
This is a rich and highly aromatic wine with elegant, refined and rope aromas of lemony, stony mineral, lemon oil and citrus. It is full-bodied with bright acids. The palate is a touch on the nutty side, with delicate use of oak. Terrific complexity with flavours of lemon oil and hazelnut that continue through to the very long finish. Should drink well for nearly a decade. Agent: Connexion Oenophilia. Score: 93 pts

DOMAINE CHRISTIAN MOREAU PERE & FILS CHABLIS GRAND CRU LES CLOS 2015 - AC, Burgundy, France (#042366) (XD) - $82
Highly aromatic on the nose with all kinds of nutty, hazelnut aromas with lemon oil and herbs adding complexity. It's full-bodied on the palate with lovely aroma replays lifted with bright and lively acids. Subtle use of oak is well-balanced. The nutty mid-palate continues through to the long finish with some herbally hints. Agent: Rogers & Company. Score: 92 pts

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Henri de Villamont Wine Tasting 2018

In April, I had the pleasure to taste the latest wines from Burgundy's Henri de Villamont with Pierre Jhean, Winemaker and Director at the winery. Having met Pierre and enjoyed the wines from Henri de Villamont in May 2017, I was excited to see what he had to offer this time around.

Pierre is always experimenting and trying new strategies and techniques to produce fine wines. One of the most interesting things I learned was that the Macon-Villages was aged with oxygen only and had no barrel contact. Combined with long lees contact, this Burgundian white wine seemed like it saw some time in barrel.

This small, exclusive tasting was held at The National Club, in the Financial District in downtown Toronto and approximately ten people were in attendance. Ten wines were presented at the tasting, and the five below were among my favourites.

For availability of these delicious wines, please click on the six-digit LCBO product code, as some of these may be available at the LCBO or might be arriving soon. Alternatively, you can also contact the Agent Eurovintage Fine Wines & Spirits for availability.

Tasting Notes:

HENRI DE VILLAMONT MACON-VILLAGES 2015 - AC, Burgundy, France (XD) - $21.95
Unique process with long lees contact, oxygen ageing, and no barrel ageing. Fragrant and ripe with nutty, pear, apple, and white flower aromas. The palate is medium+ bodied with nicely balanced aroma replays with some creamy texture. Acids are fresh. Mid-palate just a touch warm. A touch reductive with hints of mineral, while the finish is long and nutty. Score: 89 pts

HENRI DE VILLAMONT CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1ER CRU LES EMBAZEES 2013 - AC, Burgundy, France (#524041) (XD) - $89
Beautiful, gorgeous aromas of sweet nut, lemon citrus and oak emanates from the glass in a nicely integrated fashion. The medium-full bodied is structured with chalky mineral notes, very nice aroma replays. Acids are clean and very nicely balanced. Mouthfeel has finesse. The very long finish is juicy with some nut and earthy notes. Beauty! Score: 92 pts

HENRI DE VILLAMONT SANTENAY LES CHAMPS-CLAUDE 2015 - AC, Burgundy, France (XD) - $21.95
The medium+ intensity nose is oak spice driven with red cherry, wild berry, and strawberry tones, and hints of earth. The palate is medium-full bodied and ripe with nice aroma replays, if a touch candied. Acids are very good, while the tannins are supple and smooth. Complex, dark berry finish with very good length. Still young, this will drink well to 2025. Score: 89 pts

HENRI DE VILLAMONT SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE LE VILLAGE 2015 - AC, Burgundy, France (XD) - $35
This has a medium-to-high intensity nose that's very savoury with mushroom, forest floor, wet earth, dark berry, and currant aromas. It's medium-bodied with dark berry and well-integrated oak flavours on the palate with refined tannins that gain some grip with time, as well as some chalkiness mid-palate. It has balanced acidity and very good finish length. Score: 91 pts

HENRI DE VILLAMONT CORTON GRAND CRU LES RENARDES 2015 - AC, Burgundy, France (#561225) (XD) - $104.95
Open and highly aromatic, this offers sweet oak spice surrounded by ripe and perfumed black cherry aromas. The medium-full bodied palate is structured with smooth, refined tannins that have some grip. Very fine aroma replays with sweet herbs, and hints of mineral, cassis, and blackberry joining the fray. Fresh acids lift the palate. Excellent finish length. Elegance in a glass. Score: 93 pts

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LCBO VINTAGES November 11, 2017: France + After-Dinner Drinks

The next release in LCBO VINTAGES on November 11, 2017 is features wines from France as its main theme, while the mini-theme focuses on after-dinner drinks. It's a big release, with many top wines to add to your cellar. These new wines will be on LCBO VINTAGES shelves across Ontario starting this Saturday.

We'll begin with the main theme that lists twelve wines, nine of which are included among my top wine picks. Both Champagnes are of the Rose type, with the Deutz made with 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay, while the Veuve Clicquot is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay and 7% Pinot Meunier. In white wines, there is the Picard Premier Cru Chablis and Servin Grand Cru Chablis, both of which are Chardonnay with little oak influence. From Sancerre, there is a Sauvignon Blanc made from vines that are at least 50 years old. The final white is a dry Riesling from Alsace. Among French reds, the 2006 Madiran is made with Tannat, while the 2001 Burgundy is made with Pinot Noir. Lastly, the Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 20% Mourvèdre.

Red wines from the rest of the release include the Fontaine du Clos, which is a blend of Grenache and Syrah. From Spain, the Murrieta is a blend of 83% Tempranillo, 9% Graciano, 5% Mazuelo, and 3% Garnacha, while the Remelluri is a blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano, Viura and Malvasia. From Italy, the "baby" Ornellaia is a big wine that consists of 64% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 9% Petit Verdot. Lastly, the Napa Cabernet Sauvignon also contains 9% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 4% Malbec, and 2% Merlot.

Among my white wine recommendations, the Hugel Gentil is a dry blend made with 50% Sylvaner & Pinot Blanc, 22% Pinot Gris, 15% Gewürztraminer, 7% Riesling, and 6% Muscat. For sweet wine lovers, look for the Riesling from Ontario or British Columbia, or the Gewürztraminer from Alsace.

From the drinks to enjoy after-dinner section, there are two lovely Port wines, as well as the Botrytis-affected Semillon from Australia that always makes an appearance around this time of year.

Enjoy my top wine picks from the release! Cheers!

Red Wine:

• GÉRARD BERTRAND SAINT CHINIAN SYRAH/MOURVÈDRE 2014 - AP, Midi, France (#370247) (D) - $16.95
• DEMORGENZON DMZ SYRAH 2014 - WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#404202) (D) - $16.95
• SANTA CAROLINA SPECIALTIES DRY FARMING CARIGNAN 2013 - Cauquenes Valley, Chile (#213520) (XD) - $17.95
• FONTAINE DU CLOS CONFIDENCES 2014 - AP Côtes du Rhône, France (#498451) (XD) - $17.95
• FOWLES STONE DWELLERS SHIRAZ 2015 - Strathbogie Ranges, Victoria, Australia (#265967) (XD) - $19.95

• CASAS DEL BOSQUE GRAN RESERVA PINOT NOIR 2014 - Casablanca Valley, Chile (#525022) (D) - $24.95  reviewed here
• MARQUÉS DE MURRIETA FINCA YGAY RESERVA 2013 - DOCa Rioja, Spain (#209148) (XD) - $30.95
• CHÂTEAU BOUSCASSÉ VIEILLES VIGNES MADIRAN 2006 - AP, Southwest, France (#132415) (D) - $38.95
• TRAPICHE TERROIR SERIES FINCA AMBROSÍA SINGLE VINEYARD MALBEC 2012 - Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina (#402941) (XD) - $39.95  reviewed here
• REMELLURI RESERVA 2011 - DOCa Rioja, Spain (#480160) (XD) - $39.95
• PIETRANERA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2012 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#189761) (XD) - $44.95

• DOMAINE DE LA CHARBONNIÈRE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2013 - AP, Rhône, France (#062711) (D) - $44.95
• BORGOGNO BAROLO 2012 - DOCG, Piedmont, Italy (#283499) (XD) - $45.95
• LE SERRE NUOVE DELL’ORNELLAIA 2015 - DOC Bolgheri Rosso, Tuscany, Italy (#606194) (D) - $64.95  reviewed here
• CONCHA Y TORO DON MELCHOR CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013 - Puente Alto, Chile (#403980) (D) - $89.95
• MAISON ROCHE DE BELLENE COLLECTION BELLENUM PETITE CHAPELLE GEVREY CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU 2001 - AC, Burgundy, France (#514257) (XD) - $106.95
• CLIFF LEDE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2014 - Stags Leap District, Napa Valley, California, USA (#014217) (XD) - $122.95  reviewed here

White Wine:

• HUGEL GENTIL 2015 - AC Alsace, France (#367284) (XD) - $17.95
• CAVE SPRING ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2015 - Cave Spring Vineyard, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#256552) (XD) - $18.95
• DIRTY LAUNDRY RIESLING 2014 - BC VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada (#514976) (M) - $19.95
• TIEFENBRUNNER PINOT GRIGIO 2016 - IGT Vignetti delle Dolomiti, Alto Adige/Trentino, Italy (#474742) (XD) - $19.95
• DOMANE WACHAU TERRASSEN FEDERSPIEL GRÜNER VELTLINER 2015 - DAC Wachau, Austria (#031534) (XD) - $19.95
• FLAT ROCK NADJA’S VINEYARD RIESLING 2016 - VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#578625) (M) - $24.95

• LA CHABLISIENNE GRANDE CUVÉE CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2015 - AC, Burgundy, France (#685222) (D) - $31.95
• CAVE DE TURCKHEIM BRAND GRAND CRU RIESLING 2013 - AC Alsace Grand Cru, France (#021303) (XD) - $37.95
• JEAN-MAX ROGER VIEILLES VIGNES SANCERRE 2015 - AC, Loire, France (#527218) (XD) - $39.95
• PICARD LE CHARMOIS SAINT AUBIN 1ER CRU 2014 - AC, Burgundy, France (#522078) (XD) - $57.95
• WEINBACH CUVÉE LAURENCE GEWURZTRAMINER 2015 - AC Alsace, France (#581975) (M) - $62.95  FSE
• DOMAINE SERVIN BOUGROS GRAND CRU CHABLIS 2013 - AC, Burgundy, France (#145623) (XD) - $69.95

Sparkling Wine:

• SEGURA VIUDAS HEREDAD RESERVA BRUT CAVA - Traditional method, DO, Spain (#558825) (D) - $32.95
• DEUTZ BRUT ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE - AC, France (#092833) (D) - $80.95
• VEUVE CLICQUOT PONSARDIN VINTAGE BRUT ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE 2008 - With gift box, AC, France (#588475) (XD) - $109.95

Dessert Wine:

• ROSEWOOD MEAD ROYALE HONEY WINE 2015 - Barrel aged, Canada (#437319) (MS) (500 mL) - $16.95  reviewed here
• DE BORTOLI NOBLE ONE BOTRYTIS SEMILLON 2014 - Riverina, New South Wales, Australia (#917252) (S) (375 mL) - $29.95

Fortified:

• BURMESTER 10-YEAR-OLD TAWNY PORT - DOP, Portugal (#223958) (S) - $28.95
• FONSECA VINTAGE PORT 2009 - DOP, Portugal (#256875) (S) - $58.95

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