New Zealand Wine Tasting - Marlborough - Day 1 (Mar. 2020)

After a fine afternoon of wine tasting on Waiheke Island, I caught a late-morning flight the day after, a Monday, to New Zealand's largest and most famous wine region - Marlborough. Located on the South Island, this was the first of two days of wine tasting in Marlborough.

My first stop of the day was Greywacke, the Marlborough label of one of New Zealand's finest winemakers, the legendary Kevin Judd. I was first introduced to Greywacke back in 2016 and have been enamoured with Kevin's wines ever since. And when I landed at Marlborough Airport (BHE) just west of Blenheim, I was excited to have Kevin personally come and pick me up from the airport. We headed straight to the winery - where they had just recently move to - on Kennedys Road in the Omaka Valley, and I met his wife, Kimberley, and the rest of the team for a lovely, home-cooked lunch.

After lunch, Kevin and I headed over to the building next door and he took me through his amazing portfolio of wines, including a few back vintages. Kevin was born in England and grew up and studied winemaking in Australia. He moved to New Zealand in 1983 and built his reputation as one of Marlborough's pioneer winemakers at Cloudy Bay, where he was the founding winemaker. But, after 25 years at Cloudy Bay, he decided to fulfill a long-held dream to have his own winery and in 2009 established Greywacke (pronounced: grey-wacky) with his wife Kimberley. He registered the name back in 1993, while with Cloudy Bay, thinking that one day he might use it for his own label. The name "Greywacke" comes from the high prevalence of rounded greywacke river stones that are found in their first Marlborough vineyard located in Rapaura, a short drive northeast of where the winery is located now. These stones, like other stones found in other vineyards throughout the wine world, have an impact on the vines and the grapes that grow from them. Seeing the greywacke stone on this trip was on my wish list, and mission was accomplished as Kevin had one on the table where we tasted the wines.

The high quality wines at Greywacke are made from mature vineyards within the central Wairau Plains and the Southern Valleys. Much of the fruit is sourced from vineyards owned by the Sutherland family (a friend dating back to their days at Cloudy Bay and now part-owners of Dog Point), while additional fruit comes from select sites within these sub-regions. The Greywacke portfolio is primarily focused on Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, but there are also limited releases of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Riesling. There are also a couple of botrytis-affected wines. I was surprised to learn that a portion of every wine throughout the Greywacke portfolio undergoes wild fermentation. Most notable are the Wild Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, both of which were 100% wild fermented. As I learned during my visit to Marlborough, many wineries are using this natural fermentation technique.

All of the wines I tasted from Greywacke were just lovely. Some of these wines do make an appearance in LCBO VINTAGES, while the rest can be ordered through their agent, Connexion Oenophilia. Wine reviews of a few of my favourites are provided below.

In addition to producing fine wines, I didn't realize that Kevin is also very passionate about and excels in photography. All of the pictures on Greywacke's labels were photographed by Kevin. He also has a few books that showcase some of his works, including The Landscape of New Zealand Wine. To view Kevin's books and prints, visit Kevin Judd Photography.

My second stop of the day was a short drive north to Dog Point Vineyard. Ivan and Margaret Sutherland of the aforementioned Sutherland family were among the earliest Marlborough wine industry pioneers - planting grapes in the region in the late 1970s. Ivan, along with Kevin Judd, helped build Cloudy Bay, and they were eventually joined by James Healy. However, in 2004, Ivan & Margaret, along with James & (wife) Wendy wanted to return to a more 'hands-on' approach and launched Dog Point with fruit from the 2002 vintage.

The name 'Dog Point' dates back to the earliest European settlement in Marlborough, when boundary dogs were used to fence in the herds of sheep. Some of these dogs wandered off and formed their own packs, eventually coming back to attack the sheep. Over time, the settlers removed these wild dogs from the area and named it Dog Point.

Today, the four founders of Dog Point are still actively involved in the day-to-day operations of the winery. Dog Point owns some of the oldest vineyards in Marlborough with vines that are 30+ years old. All of the grapes are grown in organic vineyards certified under BioGro New Zealand and hand-picked. The entire Dog Point portfolio consists of just four wines - enabling them to focus on creating high-quality wines of great character. All of the wines are vinified in a low interventionist method, without any fining and minimal filtration, with the goal of producing wines that can be cellared and aged.

At Dog Point, I met up with Jak Nash who gave me a quick tour of the property in the DP classic car that you see on their website. We stopped at a few different points, including a hill that had clay soils and was known for producing the high quality Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that goes into their own wines. Overlooking the hill was a gorgeous view of the Southern Valleys vineyards, some of which are their own. The extraordinary 2020 harvest looks to be yet another very special vintage.

I tasted all four of their current releases - which are all vegan, vegetarian, and gluten-free - and each wine is fantastic! Wine reviews of my top three are provided below. While one or two wines from the Dog Point portfolio may come to LCBO VINTAGES, you can also reach out to their agent Noble Estates Wine & Spirits to order the full lineup of Dog Point wines.

The final stop of the day was a short drive north to Whitehaven Wines, located at the northern edge of the Wairau Valley and bordering the Wairau River. General Manager Simon Toneycliffe gave me a brief tour of the estate vineyards, some which are approaching 30 years old before we headed into the winery to learn about Whitehaven and taste a few wines.

Whitehaven Wines was one of Marlborough's pioneering wine businesses when it was established in 1994 by Greg and Sue White after sheltering in a yacht in the Marlborough Sounds during the Pacific hurricane season and thought the area would be a nice place to start a new project. The winery is named Whitehaven for the importance of family and the calming port 'haven' they'd found while anchored in Marlborough - hence the anchor in the logo. Today, Whitehaven is led by Sue White, continuing the dream she shared with her late husband Greg, while their daughter Samantha will steer the company into the future.

To make the wines, the fruit comes from around 45 estate owned or managed vineyards, or from contract grower vineyards across Marlborough's three sub-regions - Wairau, Awatere. and Southern Valleys. This practice is quite common in the wine world, but I learned is especially common in New Zealand. What I found surprising is the sheer number of vineyards where the fruit can come from. For example, Whitehaven's White Label Sauvignon Blanc comes from these 45 vineyards across the Awatere, Wairau, and Southern Valleys, with grapes from each vineyard vinified separately prior to creating the final blend. Many of their contract growers have been part of the Whitehaven 'family' for a long time. In total, Whitehaven has access to more than 200 hectares of vines, and all of the vineyards (including grower vineyards) are Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ) accredited. In 2019, Whitehaven became a member of Appellation Marlborough Wine (AMW) - assuring, among other criteria, that they only use Marlborough fruit for their Sauvignon Blanc wines.

After tasting the wines with winemakers Diana Katardzhieva and Rowan Langdon, we toured the production facility that was recently renovated with further improvements and expansion coming soon. I also had the opportunity to go up the catwalk and get a gorgeous view of the Wairau Valley. It was quite windy on this day, but perfectly suitable for winegrowing as the wind helps cool the grapes. Upon completion of the tour, I enjoyed a fine BBQ dinner at Diana's home and accompanied with many Whitehaven wines, including some back vintages. Rowan also joined us and I thank both of you and your partners for a wonderful evening and hospitality!

Whitehaven wines are available at the LCBO (including VINTAGES), with wines from the rest of their portfolio available through their agent - E. & J. Gallo Winery Canada.

Tasting Notes:

GREYWACKE WILD SAUVIGNON 2017 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#282806) (XD) - $39
From clay soils. Wild fermented with two-thirds undergoing full malolactic fermentation in oak barrels, and spending 8 months on the lees. This Sauvignon Blanc has a fresh, oak influenced, and balanced nose of orchard fruit, stone fruit, and hints of citrus with yeasty, leesy, and herbal characters adding further complexities. It's medium-full bodied and quite fleshy on the palate with lovely spicy replays plus citrusy and lemon flavours, all supported by fresh, lively acids. A textural wonder with ripe fruits, subtle oak, and excellent length on the finish. Score: 93 pts

GREYWACKE CHARDONNAY 2016 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (XD) - $45
2 clones of Chardonnay from 4 vineyards. Pressed straight to barrel and underwent natural indigenous yeast fermentation, followed by malolactic fermentation in French oak barriques (20% new). This Chardonnay has a rich, highly aromatic, oak influenced nose that is smoky with buttered popcorn, and baked apple, pear, and stone fruit aromas. It's full-bodied on the rich, creamy palate with very nice smoky-flinty replays and apple flavours. It has fresh, succulent acids to go along with a tight structure and very good length on flinty, orchard fruit finish. Score: 93 pts

GREYWACKE PINOT NOIR 2017 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#402651) (XD) - $46
Made with Dijon clones from vineyards in the Southern Valleys, this Pinot Noir has a fresh, open, fragrant, and complex nose of raspberry and black cherry mingling with earthy, forest floor, beetroot, clove, strawberry, and cherry notes, along with hints of floral. It's light-to-medium bodied with lovely aroma replays on the pretty palate with some tannins on the back-palate. Acids are balanced. Earthy, beetroot, spice, and black cherry notes linger on the long finish. Score: 92 pts

DOG POINT SECTION 94 SAUVIGNON BLANC 2013 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#325977) (XD) - $44.95
A single vineyard parcel grown on silt/clay loam soils that was wild fermented and aged for 18 months in older French oak barrels, this has a highly aromatic and reductive nose layered over citrus, melon, and subtle smoky oak aromas. It's medium-full bodied with lively acids that brighten that palate. Lovely flavours of spice, citrus, melon, and passion fruit notes with touches of herbal characters. Palate quenching with excellent length on the finish. Score: 92 pts

DOG POINT CHARDONNAY 2017 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#238568) (XD) - $45
From the oldest vines in Marlborough which were planted in 1981 and a clonal combination of 70% Mendoza and 30% Clone 95. Wild fermented in barrels. It has a fairly intense nose that is reductive in style with smoky, flinty, buttered popcorn, golden apple, peach, stone fruit aromas that are very clean and offer purity of fruit. The medium-full bodied palate is spiced with golden apple, peach, and citrus flavours that flow through the juicy, succulent mid-palate. Nice replays. Excellent length on the long, juicy finish. Score: 93 pts

DOG POINT PINOT NOIR 2017 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#329672) (XD) - $50
Mostly Dijon clones from vines planted in 1983 (the oldest in Marlborough), wild fermented (15% whole bunch) and matured in French oak barrels (35% new) for 18 months. The medium-high to highly aromatic nose is clean, elegant, and perfumed with lovely black cherry, dried tea leaf, dark cherry, earthy, cherry, beetroot, and anise aromas. It's medium+ bodied, elegant, and quite concentrated with pleasing black cherry, mulberry, and cassis flavours with subtle oak spice notes. Nicely balanced throughout with clean acids and fine tannins. Lovely earthy, forest floor, and black cherry notes linger on the long finish, with excellent length. Score: 92 pts

WHITEHAVEN GREG SINGLE VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2019 - Awatere Valley, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#325944) (XD) - $23.95
Fresh, elegant aromatics are clean and ripe with melon, citrus, wet rock minerality, and grapefruit notes. It's medium+ bodied on the fresh, broad palate with nicely ripe melon replays, followed by some mineral, gooseberry, and nettle flavours. It's got fresh acids and a long, crisp, and lightly spiced finish. Score: 91 pts

WHITEHAVEN PINOT GRIS 2018 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#447516) (XD) - $19.95
From estate grown fruit, the fresh, medium+ intensity aromatics offer stone fruits, melon, pear, honeysuckle, and floral characters with a touch of cotton candy. The medium-full bodied has a kiss of sweetness with spiced melon, quince, and pear flavours and a touch of herb. With 5 months of lees contact, it is nicely textured with very good acidity, while the finish is long and palate quenching. Score: 89 pts

WHITEHAVEN PINOT NOIR 2016 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#532929) (XD) - $26.95
A 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir from the Awatere and Southern Valleys, this has a medium-high intensity nose that is clean with red and black fruits, black cherry, raspberry, plum, dark berry, and spice, along with some earthy tones and hints of tea leaf. The medium-full bodied palate is structured and quite concentrated with nice red and black fruit replays. Raspberry, tomato leaf, and whiffs of tea leaf and mineral also appear on the flavour profile. Acids are still quite juicy, while the finish length is very good. Score: 90 pts

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Domaine Hamelin Vau Ligneau Chablis 1er Cru 2019 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is an excellent Chablis Premier Cru from the Vau Ligneau Climat in Burgundy that arrived at the LCBO as part of the recent July 28th LCBO VINTAGES Online Exclusives Release and is available purchase only through lcbo.com.

I enjoyed the excellent 2019 Domaine Hamelin Beauroy Chablis 1er Cru last month (it is still available in stores now!) and am delighted to taste another wine from the same producer. Domaine Hamelin was founded in 1840 by Gustave Hamelin when he planted two hectares of vines alongside his mixed farm. Over the next few generations, the family property was further expanded and developed. Today, Domaine Hamelin is run by the sixth and seventh generations of the family with Thierry and his son Charles continuing to perpetuate the Chablis wine tradition using the knowledge passed down over the generations. Together, they craft their wines using a mix of ancient traditions and modern techniques to create Chablis wines that perfectly represent their terroirs.

Crafted with 100% Chardonnay, the grapes for this white wine were grown in the Vallée de Vaux de Long in the village of Beines. The 3.5 hectare vineyard extends from the bottom of the valley to the end of very steep slopes, and facing south-southeast. The vines were planted between 1978 and 1980 on Kimmeridgian limestone subsoils (which are from the Late Jurrasic Epoch more than 150 million years old) and borders on the slightly younger Portlandian limestone at the top of the valley, providing elegance and body typical of Premier Cru Chablis wines such as this. The valley is quite closed, resulting in a micro-climate that is highly suitable for good grape maturation, and combined with the soils, allows the grapes to fully express itself and place.

As the 2019 vintage is described as probably one of the best vintages ever in Burgundy, one can expect this white wine from Burgundy to also be excellent. Let's see how this 2019 Chablis Premier Cru is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE HAMELIN VAU LIGNEAU CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2019 - AC, Burgundy, France (#21405) (XD) - $39.95
Beautiful, fresh, intensely aromatic nose offers ripe lemon citrus, leesy mineral, golden apple, and lactic notes. The medium+ bodied palate is refined and elegant with more lemon citrus, golden apple, and mineral replays joined by subtle spicy tones and a twist of honey. Acids are fresh and crisp. There's good tension between the fruit and acidity, and it's nicely balanced overall. Lovely mineral, lemon citrus, and apple notes are subtly smoky on the finish, with excellent length. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

One other excellent Chablis by Domaine Hamelin is available at the LCBO, while others from their portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Domaine Hamelin Beauroy Chablis 1er Cru 2019 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is the latest vintage of this excellent Chablis Premier Cru that landed at the LCBO as an Online Exclusive in the June 2nd LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Domaine Hamelin has a long history that begins in 1840 when Gustave Hamelin planted 2 hectares of vines alongside his mixed farm. In 1880, Pierre Hamelin grew 3 hectares of vines and used mules to help work them. At this time, the wines were held in 132 litres barrels and gave rise to the name "feuillette" or little cask, and transported by river using barges or rafts. By 1911, Georges Hamelin settled in Lignorelle and extended the property to 4 hectares and worked the vines by horse, while transporting the wines in feuillettes by railway. Pierre Hamelin took over from his father in 1936 and not only further developed the vineyard, but also used some of the industry's latest technological advancements. In 1970, Marc Hamelin created his own vineyard and then added the area he inherited from his father. Today, Thierry and his son Charles Hamelin are the sixth and seventh generations of the family to run the estate and perpetuating the Chablis wine tradition. With knowledge handed down from generation to generation, Thierry and Charles focus on mainly Chablis wines using a mix of old traditions and modern-day techniques to craft wines that express the flavours of their terroir.

I've had the pleasure of enjoying a number of previous vintages of this wine, including most recently the 2018 Domaine Hamelin Beauroy Chablis 1er Cru, and it always provides immense pleasure. Crafted with 100% Chardonnay, the vines are located on very steep, south-facing slopes that extend from the bottom of the valley to the top of the slopes. The vines were planted between 1980 and 1982 on Kimmeridgian subsoils that gives the wine the intensity and typicity of a fine Chablis Premier Cru character.

From what is described as probably one of the best vintages ever in Burgundy, let's see how this 2019 Chablis Premier Cru is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE HAMELIN BEAUROY CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2019 - AC, Burgundy, France (#391805) (XD) - $41.95
100% Chardonnay. Elegantly fragrant and ripe on the nose with fresh citrus, apple and pear aromas with hints of lactic and shell minerality. It's ripe and fleshy on the medium-full bodied, textured palate with fresh, clean, and bright acidity. Lovely lemon citrus, apple, pear, and butter flavours taper to a minerally, citrusy, and crisp finish, with excellent length. Beautiful, highly recommended buy! Score: 93+ pts

Other lovely wines by Domaine Hamelin can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Emerging California Master Class (Apr. 2022)

Last month was California Wine Month and one afternoon in April I had the pleasure of attending a virtual zoom Master Class on "Emerging California". This master class was put on by California Wines and led by leading wine critic, journalist, and educator Elaine Chukan Brown.

Winegrowing activities in California began in the mid-1800's. Since that time, California has emerged as one of the world's great wine producing regions most notable for its Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay from Napa Valley and Sonoma County. In this master class, which included 9 wine samples for us to taste along with Elaine, we learned about some of California's lesser-known wine regions, focusing mainly on areas in the Central Coast.

The wines were, for the most part, made with grape varieties one wouldn't normally associate with California - Grenache, Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, and Sauvignon Blanc were just some of the varietals we touched upon. Overall, I found the master class to be quite informative as a wealth of information was presented by Elaine. I was also very pleased with the quality of the wines. In the end, the Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon were my definitive favourites, but there were also many other lovely wines. To purchase any of these wines, please contact each wine's Agent for availability and pricing as only a very small amount of the rosé is currently available at the LCBO.

Tasting Notes:

BONNY DOON VINEYARD LE CIGARE VOLANT 2020 - Central Coast, California, USA (#18516) (XD) - $20 CAD
Primarily from Monterey, this blend of 42% Grenache, 31% Cinsault, 24% Syrah, 2% Petit Verdot, and 1% Counoise has a medium-high to highly aromatic nose that is fresh, ripe, plummy, red fruited with a subtle smokiness. It’s medium-full bodied with smooth, nicely textured tannins. Flavours are dry and nicely balanced with red fruits, currant, red cherry, and subtle wood. Fresh, balanced acids. Long, red fruited, cherry, and smoky finish. Agent: FWM Canada. Score: 90 pts

SCHUG CABERNET FRANC 2017 - Sonoma County, California, USA (XD) - $47 USD
Blend of 78% Cabernet Franc, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot. The lovely, medium-high to highly aromatic nose offers aromas of currant, cassis, red pepper, pretty florals, and herbaceous touches. It’s medium-full bodied and dry with lovely aroma replays with noted red pepper and smoky touches, along with tangy, juicy acidity. Structured and smooth with fine tannins. Red pepper, currant, and chocolate notes linger on the long, juicy finish. Agent: Lifford Wine and Spirits. Score: 91 pts

RIDGE ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019 - Monte Bello Vineyard, Santa Cruz Mountains, Central Coast, California, USA (#89284) (XD) - $112 CAD
Composed of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot, it has a lovely, highly aromatic nose featuring aromas of sweet cassis, floral, currant, red berry fruit, cherry, and sweet spices. It’s full-bodied, dry, and structured with elegant, slightly chalky tannins along with lovely aroma replays and fresh, tangy acidity lifting the palate. Red cherry, floral, and earthy with some stony mineral notes lingering on the very long, juicy finish. Agent: Rogers & Company. Score: 93 pts

CLINE ANCIENT VINES CARIGNANE 2019 - Contra Costa County, Central Coast, California, USA (#32177) (XD) - $33 CAD
From old vines, some more than 100 years old, grown in sandy soils in northwest Oakley near the San Joaquin River, the medium-high to highly aromatic nose offers lovely purple and black fruit, dark plum, and minty herbal aromas. It’s full-bodied with structured, slightly chalky tannins with lovely aroma replays on the flavour profile. Juicy acids with minty, dark berry notes, plus touches of smoke linger on the long finish. Agent: Vinexx. Score: 91 pts

OAK RIDGE MAGGIO PETITE SIRAH 2020 - Lodi, California, USA (D) - $12 USD
A blend of 90% Petite Sirah and 10% Zinfandel, the medium-high nose is very ripe, plummy, and fruit forward with dark berry and sweet oak aromas. The fleshy, full-bodied palate is juicy and fruit forward, dark berry, plum, tea leaf, and purple fruit flavours joined by subtle sweet spices and vanilla. Structured tannins have some grip. Juicy acids and ripe plum and berry notes linger on the finish, with very good length. Agent: Profile Wine Group. Score: 87 pts

DAOU DISCOVERY ROSÉ 2020 - Paso Robles, Central Coast, California, USA (#19527) (XD) - $29.95 CAD
This blend of 95% Grenache grown on limestone soils, plus 5% Sauvignon Blanc was barrel-aged on its lees. Aromas are fresh and bright with notions of grapefruit, citrus, and red berries, with herbally touches. It’s medium-bodied and dry with a pleasingly chalky textured mouthfeel to go along with very nice aroma replays on the palate, joined by touches of grassy notes. Somewhat fleshy on the mid-palate. Very good length on the slightly leesy finish. Only 10 bottles remain at LCBO, and at a big discount. Agent: Southern Glazer's Wine and Spirits of Canada. Score: 90 pts

INGLENOOK SAUVIGNON BLANC 2019 - Rutherford, Napa Valley, California, USA (#17090) (XD) - $38 USD
A blend of 76% Sauvignon Blanc and 24% Semillon that was aged for 8 months sur lie with 70% in stainless steel tanks, 19% in new French oak, and the rest in neutral French oak. The elegant, medium-high intensity nose is earthy-leesy in profile with pear, stone fruit, white peach, citrus, lemongrass, and herbs. On the medium+ bodied palate it is very textural and rich with pear, citrus, lemongrass, and white peach replays supported by juicy, balanced acidity. Citrus, pear, and subtle spices linger on the long, crisp, and tight finish. Agent: Noble Estates Wine & Spirits. Score: 91+ pts

BOGLE CHENIN BLANC 2020 - Clarksburg, California, USA (#704049) (D) - $21.95 CAD
Chenin Blanc is the most widely planted variety in the Clarksburg AVA, which has mostly alluvial soils mixed with clay and some sand. This Chenin has muted aromas of tropical fruit, honeyed, beeswax, floral, and honeysuckle. It’s medium-full bodied with appealing, off-dry aroma replays joined by spice notes. It has a viscous mouthfeel with lively acids, subtly spicy and tapering to a dry-ish, crisp finish, with very good length. Agent: Abcon Wine Merchants. Score: 88 pts

CALERA MT. HARLAN CHARDONNAY 2018 - Certified Organic Farmed Vineyards, Central Coast, California, USA (#16406) (XD) - $55 USD
Grown in limestone soils in the Gavilan Mountains at a high elevation of 2,200 feet and cooled by ocean breezes. The gorgeous, highly aromatic nose is rich and buttery with apple, pear, stone fruits, lemon citrus, and subtle smokiness aromas. It’s medium-full to full bodied with a lovely, rich, creamy mouthfeel and very nice, flavourful aroma replays, plus elegant oak spice and vanilla notes, all framed by lovely, racy acidity. Excellent length on the long, dry, leesy mineral finish. Agent: Rogers & Company. Score: 94 pts

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Wakefield Estate Chardonnay 2020 (Australia) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is the latest edition of the lovely Estate Label Chardonnay by Wakefield Wines that arrives at the LCBO this weekend as part of the April 30th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Wakefield Wines, a family-owned and -operated winery that was founded by Bill Taylor Sr. and his two sons near the Wakefield River in South Australia's Clare Valley in 1969. Today, the third generation of the family - Mitchell, Justin and Clinton - continue the family tradition of making delicious wines that stand the test of time. The Taylor family is firmly committed to sustainability and producing wines in a responsible manner that respects the fruit and the land where it came from. The Taylor family also has an innovative spirit, and one of these innovations includes an Optimum Drinking Sensor that is on the back label of many of their wines.

Like the 2019 Wakefield Estate Chardonnay that I enjoyed just over a year ago, this vintage is also crafted with Chardonnay from Padthaway and Clare Valley. Although the percentage from each region was unspecified last time, this vintage is composed of 57% Padthaway and 43% Clare Valley Chardonnay. A small portion of this wine was barrel-fermented and stirred on its lees for 4 months. After 6-8 months of ageing in French oak, the wine was blended and bottled. Let's see how this 2020 Chardonnay is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

WAKEFIELD ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2020 - Padthaway & Clare Valley, South Australia (#711556) (XD) - $16.95
Screw cap. The medium-high intensity nose is fresh with ripe apple, citrus, pear, and butter aromas nuanced with vanilla, lactic, and yoghurt notes. On the dry, medium+ bodied, and creamy palate it is lightly honeyed with citrusy, apple, pear, butter, and vanilla flavours supported by crisp, fresh acidity. Leesy mineral, apple, citrus, butter, with touches of sweet vanillin oak and saline linger on the long finish. Might be my favourite vintage so far. Highly recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Wakefield are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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J. Laurens Le Moulin Brut Blanquette de Limoux (Midi) - Wine Review (Apr. 2022)

I've enjoyed this lovely Limoux sparkling wine on a couple of occasions now, including most recently in May 2021 when it showed up in VINTAGES that month. For tonight's sparkling wine review, I bring you the latest batch of this delicious sparkling wine that arrived at the LCBO last weekend as part of the April 16th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Limoux wine is produced around the city of Limoux in Languedoc, in southwestern France, with sparkling wines dominating the production. The main grape of the region is Mauzac, known locally as Blanquette because of a fine white coating that forms on its leaves, followed by Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. Historically, it is widely believed that the world's first sparkling wines were produced in the region of Limoux in 1531 by the monks of the abbey in Saint-Hilaire. Fast forward to 1929 and the Limoux production area was the first delimited area in France, followed by the first Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) in Languedoc (and one of the very first in France) in 1938.

This Limoux sparkling wine is produced by Domaine J. Laurens. Established in the 1980s by Michel Dervin of Champagne, J. Laurens is located in the south of France in the small village of La Digne d'Aval, 5 kilometres from Limoux, a stone’s throw away from the famous old city of Carcassonne, one hour from Toulouse, and two hours from Montpellier. A native of Limoux, Jacques Calvel took over the domaine in 2002 and with the help of Michel and cellar master Henri Albrus, the domaine was expanded and modernized in order to guarantee high quality wines every year.

Today, J. Laurens produces a fine range of AOC Limoux sparkling wines in the traditional method. Among the many rules of the AOC, yields are limited to 50 hl/hectare, hand-harvested and uncrushed grapes only, and the wines must rest on their lees for a minimum of 9 months. J. Laurens is aware of the importance of protecting the environment and respecting biological diversity, and applies the principles of sustainable agriculture with the help of a qualified technician.

Tasting Note:

J. LAURENS LE MOULIN BRUT BLANQUETTE DE LIMOUX - Traditional method, AP, Midi, France (#180323) (XD) - $19.95
This non-vintage traditional method sparkling wine is a blend of 90% Mauzac and 10% Chardonnay and has fresh golden apple and lemon citrus aromas mingling with yeasty and biscuit notes of generous intensity rising out of the glass. On the crisp, light-to-mid weighted palate it has lightly frothy mousse and more ripe apple, lemon citrus, and yeasty notes joined by lightly honeyed and grapefruit flavours in a dry profile with fresh, zesty acidity. Citrus, apple, and yeasty notes linger on the dry, clean, and crisp finish, with very good length. Lot L21344.1. Always a recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other fine wines by J. Laurens can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Crios Chardonnay 2020 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review for this Family Day long weekend is this delicious Chardonnay from the Uco Valley in Argentina that arrived at the LCBO this weekend as part of the February 19 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

After deciding to follow the family business in viticulture, Susana received her degree in enology in 1991 to become the first woman in Argentina to do so. Susana worked as a consultant for many wineries in Argentina and internationally over the years, and eventually fulfilled a lifelong dream to have her own winery and create her own wines when she established Susana Balbo Wines in 1999. More recently, Susana and her team have worked tirelessly to meet international high quality standards for their wines while also showing commitment to food safety, environmental sustainability, and corporate social responsibility.

This white wine is from Susana Balbo's Crios range of wines that was borne out of her love for her children, José and Ana, and desire to forge a legacy for her family, helping them navigate their own life journeys with lessons learned from a lifetime of trailblazing entrepreneurship. The handprint logo on each Crios bottle symbolizes this relationship and illustrates the hand as powerful tool for mothers, allowing them to hold, provide warmth, nourish, and comfort, as well as teach the next generation the skills and wisdom achieved. Conviction, energy, and identity all go into making something with your hands, establishing an indelible personal mark.

To bring out the very best in Crios wines, Susana and her team choose the region of Argentina most suited for growing each particular grape, and nurture each variety to elevate its intrinsic character. Together with her children, Crios wines are crafted to be enjoyed across generations and to represent values we strive to instill in our own families, including reminding us to stop and enjoy the small pleasures of life.

This particular Chardonnay is sourced from the Uco Valley at high-altitudes averaging 1,050 metres (3,445 feet). The grapes were hand-harvested and hand-selected, followed by destemming and soft crushing. It was aged on its lees for three months in second- and third-use French oak barrels. The 2020 vintage growing season was extremely good and minimally impacted by the pandemic. Let's see how this high-altitude Uco Valley Chardonnay is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CRIOS CHARDONNAY 2020 - Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina (#243196) (XD) - $15.95
Screw cap. The medium-high intensity nose is fresh with ripe lemons, citrus, apple, and white peach underpinned by leesy mineral notes. It has good weight on the dry, medium+ bodied palate with fresh, zippy acidity lifting the ripe lemon, citrus, apple, white peach, leesy mineral, and grapefruit flavours with a touch of wood spice. Leesy mineral, citrusy, apple, and grapefruit notes linger on the satisfyingly long and juicy finish. Recommended buy. Score: 88+ pts

Other delicious wines from Susana Balbo are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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El Enemigo Chardonnay 2018 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Wow. I can't believe how the time flew by. In October 2020 I recall enjoying the 2017 El Enemigo Chardonnay - a wine that was excellent upon opening, but really blossomed into something special over the course of 7 days that I had it open. For tonight's white wine review, I opened the latest vintage of this terrific wine that arrived at the LCBO over the weekend along with a pair of excellent Bonarda wines from the same producer as part the feature on wines from Argentina in the February 5th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

El Enemigo Wines is a passion project founded by Catena Zapata head winemaker Alejandro Vigil and historian Adrianna Catena, Dr. Laura Catena's younger sister. The name El Enemigo, which means 'the enemy within', was inspired by Dante Alighieri's poem "The Divine Comedy", and the goal was to produce wines that would respect history while rejecting the status quo. El Enemigo has gained global recognition for many of their wines by displaying the best of the Mendoza and Uco Valley soils, while also combining old and new winemaking techniques.

Chardonnay is Argentina's third most widely planted white wine varietal with more than 14,400 acres planted and representing 16% of all white wine varieties planted in the country. Chardonnay is the queen of white grapes and produces wines of great character and personality, all of which depend on the terroir where it's grown and techniques used by the winemaker in the vineyard and cellar.

In Argentina, Chardonnay has historically been grown in Luján de Cuyo and Maipú, Mendoza, where the elevation is between 700 and 1000 metres above sea level and the climate is hot, dry, and sunny. More recently, since the early part of the 2000's, many producers have migrated their vineyards to higher areas, in the mountains, in the search for a cooler climate. For every 100 metres in elevation, the temperature drops by about 1°C. Mountain vineyard Chardonnay resides mainly in the Uco Valley, with Tupungato having the most vineyards, but the pinnacle for Argentine Chardonnay is in Gualtallary - where this wine is from. These regions offers a combination of alluvial, stony soils with high calcium content, and a cool climate, along with the orientation and layout of the vines that all contribute produce high quality wines that are Burgundian in style. Argentina's high elevation vineyards and intense sunlight allows Chardonnay to ripen fully while maintaining bright acidity.

Like the previous vintage, the grapes for this Chardonnay were grown in Gualtallary - a high-altitude region situated within Tupungato, which is at the northern reaches of the Uco Valley - at an elevation of 1,470 metres (4,822 feet) above sea level on deep-calcareous, rocky soils. The grapes were barrel-fermented using wild yeasts in 500 L French oak barrels, then aged for 9 months in French oak with veil. With near ideal growing conditions, the 2018 vintage produced excellent quality fruit and a bumper crop, resulting in excellent wines across Argentina. Let's see how this 2018 Chardonnay is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

EL ENEMIGO CHARDONNAY 2018 - Gualtallary, Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina (#482984) (XD) - $24.95
Beautifully fragrant, elegant, refined, and complex with minerality, nut, and mealy aromas accented with ripe orchard fruit, apple, pear, lemon citrus, and a touch of honey. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it is creamy and spicy with bright acidity. It is lightly honeyed with baked apple, lemon citrus, mineral, and mealy with some nutty tones on the flavour profile. Nicely textured on the mid-palate. Long, juicy, and succulent on the finish with lingering minerally and leesy notes. Gorgeous! Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Other fantastic bottlings from El Enemigo Wines are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - Noble Estates Wine & Spirits.

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Closerie des Alisiers Bourgogne Aligoté 2020 and Petit Chablis 2019 (Burgundy) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of lovely white wines from Burgundy that arrived at the LCBO this weekend as part of the January 8th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

These are wines are produced by Stéphane Brocard, the son of a Chablisian winegrower Jean-Marc Brocard. Stéphane founded his Trading House after he moved to Marsannay in 2007, and in addition to his own vines in Pommard and in the old winegrowing village of Daix, Stéphane also works with the same winegrowers and plots year after year to offer authentic wines based on purity, fruit, and freshness while also having the greatest respect for terroir and the environment.

In Burgundy, the concept of 'clos' is very old, with the first clos appearing in the 7th century. Initially of religious influence, these stone walls multiplied in the 19th century and made it possible to retain the soil of each estate, giving each Burgundy estate its own personality. A Closerie is a small clos - a small property surrounded by walls or hedges.

Maison Stéphane Brocard established Closerie des Alisiers, and together with partner estates is able to craft wines from all of Burgundy's appellations representing the region's diversity, with an increasingly large range of organic wines. The wines of Closerie des Alisiers represent a range of Burgundy wines almost exclusively from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, as well as few Aligoté wines. Together, they present the complexity and authenticity of Burgundy wines.

I've had the pleasure of tasting previous vintages of both of these wines - the 2017 Closerie des Alisiers Bourgogne Aligoté and 2016 Closerie des Alisiers Petit Chablis - and expect wines of similar quality, if not better this time around. Let's see how these Burgundy white wines are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

CLOSERIE DES ALISIERS BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ 2020 - AC, France (#557728) (XD) - $17.95
Crafted with Burgundy's second white grape - Aligoté - this unoaked white wine has a medium-high intensity nose that is very pretty with lovely white floral, ripe apple, and zesty lime citrus aromas with mineral accents. The medium+ bodied palate has good weight and concentration with slightly honeyed notes of ripe apple, white flowers, lime citrus, and oyster shell mineral with a hint of orange in a dry flavour profile. Acids are fresh, succulent, and juicy. Slightly chalky textured with oyster shell minerality and lime citrus notes lingering on the long, juicy finish. Keeps you coming back for another sip. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

CLOSERIE DES ALISIERS PETIT CHABLIS 2019 - AC, Burgundy, France (#557769) (XD) - $22.95
100% Chardonnay grown at altitude on Kimmeridgian soils of limestone, rich in marine fossils, and in particular small comma-shaped oysters. Raised entirely in stainless steel vats, the nose seems somewhat quiet, offering delicate aromas of lemon/lime citrus, oyster shell and limestone minerals, and a whiff of white flowers. The creamy, slightly chalky textured, mid-weighted palate is lightly honeyed and dry with ripe stone fruits, apple, lemon, pear, mealy, and nutty flavours flecked with minerality. Bright acids are fresh and juicy, while oyster shell minerals, ripe stone fruits, and light spice notes linger on the long, succulent finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other lovely wines from Closerie des Alisiers can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Six-pack of LCBO General List Wines (Dec. 2021)

To wrap up the last batch of LCBO General List wines I received a few months ago, tonight's wine reviews are six wines that are readily available at LCBO outlets across Ontario, with a couple that are on promotion right now.

While all of these wines in this post are represented by Dionysus Wines & Spirits (and Churchill Cellars), the Mare di Sirena and Popcorn Chardonnay are actually brands owned by Alex Patinios and made under his business Garage Wine Company. Alex is also President of the Ontario wine agencies Dionysus and Churchill Cellars.

The story of Popcorn Chardonnay (not to be confused with the California wine of the same name) began in early 2020 when some Ontario wineries realized that they had a surplus of Chardonnay in tank and barrel due to the pandemic. The ever opportunistic and entrepreneurial Alex purchased the wine and sent it to Niagara's Strewn Winery. He worked with Strewn's winemaker Marc Bradshaw to have it blended and finished to the desired taste profile, and bottled as Popcorn Chardonnay. The catchy label features a silhouette of a bag of popcorn and a single popped kernel in the center, just above the name.

It's possible that the 2019 Popcorn Chardonnay is sold out across the province as I have seen the 2020 vintage on LCBO shelves now. However, you should know that with the 2020 vintage, Alex purchased fruit specifically for this wine and Marc applied small-batch winemaking techniques such as sur lie, blending, and barrel fermentation with three different types of barrels. There may be vintage variation, which is not necessarily a bad thing, but it is sure to be delicious.

Let's see how these wines are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

POPCORN CHARDONNAY 2019 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#20264) (D) - $15.95
Screw cap. This Chardonnay was barrel fermented and aged in French and American oak barrels and has a subtle nose offering suggestions of ripe orchard fruit, peach, lemon curd, poached apple, tropical fruit, and honeyed aromas. There's good weight on the creamy, medium-bodied palate with ripe apple, buttery, lemon curd, sweet vanillin, and a touch of honey adding a kiss of sweetness to the flavour profile. Acids are juicy and well-balanced, while some smoky, leesy, and saline notes add interest to the lingering dry finish, with very good length. Highly delicious! Score: 88 pts

MARE DI SIRENA PINOT GRIGIO 2020 - IGT Italy (#20054) (XD) - $8.90
Screw cap. Translates to Sea of the Mermaid, the myth is that the mermaids in the seas surrounding Italy blow cool air over vineyards during summer to enhance ripening of the grapes, and warm air during the winter to protect the vines from frost. The majority of this Pinot Grigio is from Central Italy at 350-600 metres above sea level and has aromas of fresh lemon citrus, pear, and white peach with herbal hints. On the mid-weighted palate it has lemon citrus, mandarin orange, and peach flavours supported by zesty, well-balanced acidity. Clean, dry and flavourful on the zesty, citrusy finish, with some leesy minerals adding interest. Very good length on the finish. Will surely please! Score: 87 pts

STREWN NURTURE WHITE 2019 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#20261) (D) - $14.95
Screw cap. This off-dry blend of 32% Riesling, 28% Gewurztraminer, 20% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Pinot Gris, 9% Chardonnay Musque, and 1% Muscat has a fragrant nose offering attractive honeyed aromas of orange citrus, lemon, honeysuckle, and wild flower. The palate is just off-dry (i.e. lightly sweet) with delicious white flower, beeswax, orange citrus, lychee, and ripe apple flavours in a nicely textured profile. With balanced acidity, it leads to a floral, leesy, juicy, and dry-ish finish, with good length. Delicious! Score: 87 pts

BREAD & BUTTER CHARDONNAY 2019 - California, USA (#19261) (D) - $18.95 $16.95 until Jan. 2
Crafted by award-winning veteran winemaker Linda Trotta in an honest, good, delicious, and uncomplicated style. Classic, traditional California Chardonnay with sweet vanillin oak, caramel, butter, ripe apple and pear aromas waft out of the glass. It's medium-full bodied and creamy on the sweetish palate with more vanillin oak, caramel, wood spice, and butter flavours with underlying apple and pear fruit notes. Slightly spicy on the mid-palate, with juicy acidity, while the vanilla, caramel, and butter notes linger on the finish, with very good length. Fans of Cali Chardonnay will like this. Score: 87 pts

STEL+MAR CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019 - Lodi, California, USA (#20808) (D) - $17.95
Two friends (who grew up in Canada) and their families came together to create STEL+MAR. They make unpretentious and approachable wines that let the terroir speak for itself. This Cabernet Sauvignon has a medium+ intensity nose that offers ripe dark berry fruit, black currant, sweet cinnamon spice, and cassis aromas with savoury earthy undertones. On the medium-full bodied palate it is slightly sweet with ripe cassis, blueberry, blackberry, vanilla, cocoa, and oak spice flavours. Crafted in a very approachable style, it has well-balanced acidity and supple, structured tannins. Intriguing cassis and minty notes linger on the long, dry finish. Delicious! Score: 88+ pts

SUNNY WITH A CHANCE OF FLOWERS PINOT NOIR 2019 - Monterey, California, USA (#18946) (XD) - $17.95 $8.30
Sunny Wines are sustainably crafted for healthy lifestyle wine lovers with zero sugar, low calories, and low alcohol (9% abv). Screw cap. Earthy beetroot aromas with a hint of toasted oak mingle with ripe black cherry, black raspberry, and strawberry aromas. There's also a hint of tea leaf. The light-to-mid-weighted palate is dry with light, supple tannins that are slightly textured. Flavours of beetroot, earth, and tea leaf with fruity notes of black cherry and raspberry on the palate, turning quite bitter on the finish, with good length. Score: 86 pts

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DGB - White Wines from South Africa

With today's mild weather, tonight's wine reviews are a trio of delicious white wines from South Africa. All three are readily available at LCBO outlets across Ontario, with one a VINTAGES Essentials product, while the other two being General List wines.

These wines are produced by DGB (Douglas Green Bellingham) - a classic company in a modern era that uses their many years of experience and a committed staff to build brands with an unrivalled passion. DGB is headquartered at their production facility in Wellington, but they also have production facilities in Franschhoek and Boschendal. Being a large producer, DGB also has their own laboratory to ensure product quality, a packaging plant, and their own cellar and storage facility.

South Africa has a rich and varied terrain and is famed for its ancient soils. As such, DGB has a dedicated Viticulturalist with extensive experience working with the diverse vineyards of the Cape Wetlands and provides a crucial link between growers and the winemakers in the cellar as they search for exceptional fruit from healthy vineyards. With passion and respect for the environment, the Viticulturalist is a great advocate for biological farming and is an important leader in DGB's sustainability projects.

DGB acquired Boschendal in 2005 and is just one of company's many brands. Boschendal - which comes from bush and dale in Dutch - is one of the oldest Wine Estates in South Africa and is located between Franschhoek and Stellenbosch in Western Cape. An iconic wine farm, Boschendal is nestled in one of the most picturesque valleys in the Cape Winelands and has a winemaking tradition that spans over 330 years.

At Boschendal, they believe that wines are made in the vineyard and seek specific terroir-driven sites best suited for their vines. They have also embraced sustainability techniques in both the vineyard and and cellar to retain the country's exceptional biodiversity. With teamwork a core value, all members of the Boschendal team share the same goal which is to craft exceptional and memorable wines, while striving for perfection and aspiring to improve.

Let's see how these delicious wines from Boschendal and The Beachhouse are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

BOSCHENDAL 1685 CHARDONNAY 2019 - WO Western Cape, South Africa (#367698) (XD) - $16.95
This 100% Chardonnay was crafted with fruit from Stellenbosch, Elgin Valley and Boschendal farm, from vineyards planted on well-drained soils. With a combination of fermentation and ageing regimens, the final blend is composed of 70% barrel fermented and matured and 30% stainless steel tank Chardonnay, all spending 10 months on its lees. Screw cap. The fragrant, medium-high intensity nose offers a ripe mix of orchard fruit, apple, pineapple, butter, and some leesy mineral aromas. It has very good weight on the dry, medium+ bodied palate with juicy acidity supporting the buttery, apple, orchard fruit, sweet vanillin oak, and herbal flavours. Nice leesy mineral texture on the mid-palate that lingers through to long, balanced finish with apple, butter, and leesy mineral flavours with a hint of caramel. Recommended buy. VINTAGES Essentials. Score: 88+ pts

BOSCHENDAL THE PAVILLION CHENIN BLANC 2020 - WO Western Cape, South Africa (#281311) (XD) - $11.95
Screw cap. Aged on fine lees to add complexity, this 100% Chenin Blanc has a medium+ intensity nose that has a touch of sulphur, but once that blows off there is lovely ripe apple, lemon citrus, white floral, grapefruit, and herbal aromas. On the mid-weighted palate it is dry with apple, citrus, and grapefruit, with some leesy mineral flavours in a nicely textured profile and crisp, balanced acidity. Citrusy, grapefruit, and minerals linger on the crisp finish, with very good length. Highly recommended buy. General List. Score: 88 pts

THE BEACHHOUSE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2020 - WO Western Cape, South Africa (#122390) (D) - $11.95
Screw cap. The 100% Sauvignon Blanc has delicate and ripe aromas of tropical fruit, guava, and passion fruit with an herbal element. It has very good weight on the slightly off-dry palate with delicious tropical fruit, lemon citrus, and saline flavours. It has well-balanced acidity, while the lingering finish has tropical fruit, citrus and saline notes. Crowd pleaser. General List. Score: 87 pts

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