Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (New Zealand) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a beautiful Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. A perennial winner and a personal favourite of mine, this white wine arrived at the LCBO last weekend as part of the Fine Wines for Festive Entertaining theme in the December 2 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

This white wine is produced by Greywacke, a renowned winery that was established in 2009 by legendary winemaker Kevin Judd. The name "Greywacke" refers to the high prevalence of rounded greywacke river stones found in the vineyard soils in Rapaura, within the Marlborough wine region. Kevin registered the name many years ago while successfully working for a notable New Zealand winery and sought one day to fulfill a dream of having his own wines - a dream that became a reality. Together with his wife, Kimberley, Greywacke remains a family affair that is now located in the Omaka Valley, one of Marlborough's Southern Valleys.

As a pioneer in Marlborough winemaking, Kevin's philosophy is to "keep it simple" while using a hands-on approach with minimal interventionist winemaking techniques. The fruit for all Greywacke wines is sourced from mature vineyards in prime viticultural sites that are sustainably managed, with an ever-increasing portion coming from organically farmed sites.

Each variety is grown and vinified using specific techniques aimed at achieving very specific wine styles, with a common objective of delivering concentration of flavour and a harmonious balance of texture and acidity. For example, to enhance flavour concentration in the grapes, crop levels are restricted, while meticulous canopy management allows for sufficient sun exposure which delivers ripeness of flavour, textural richness, and optimum acid balance. Wild yeast fermentations are used extensively in order to add a savoury character to the flavour profile, while also building structure and a textured mouthfeel. The range of Greywacke wines is primarily focused on Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, plus a number of limited production wines using other varieties. Greywacke is accredited with Appellation Marlborough Wine to ensure provenance, authenticity, and integrity. Kevin is also a renowned photographer with a couple of published photography books, while the label of each Greywacke wine is adorned with his photo.

These days, the Judd family is joined by Richelle Tyney, who joined the team in 2021 and manages the winemaking programme, while also travelling abroad to spread the word about Greywacke wines. In 2019, one of the Judd family's two sons, Alex, plunged himself into the production side of the winemaking team at Greywacke. And in news that is just a couple of weeks old, Greywacke announced that Ben Leonard joined the team to manage the sales and commercial side of their global distribution network.

Like the 2021 Greywacke Savuginon Blanc that I enjoyed last year, this fruit for this vintage was sourced from prime vineyard sites in Marlborough's Southern Valleys and the central Wairau Plains - specifically in Woodbourne, Renwick, and Rapaura. The vines were planted on various soil types, varying from young alluvial soils in Rapaura and Renwick, which contain high proportions of New Zealand's ubiquitous greywacke river stones, to older and denser clay-loams of the Southern Valleys. The majority of the vineyards were trained using the divided Scott Henry canopy management system, with the balance on a two- or three-cane Vertical Shoot Positioning trellis. The grapes were largely machine-harvested during the cool (and often cold) nighttime conditions. Upon arrival at the winery in the Omaka Valley, the grapes were lightly pressed to yield a modest volume of high-quality juice. The juice was then cold-settled and racked prior to fermentation. It was fermented primarily in stainless steel tanks with cultured yeast, while a portion of the juice was allowed to undergo spontaneous indigenous yeast fermentation in old oak barrels. All individual vineyard batches were left on lees and kept separate until late June, when the blend of Sauvignon Blanc was assembled, and then bottled in mid-August.

The 2022 winegrowing season in Marlborough was marked by a cold and wet February, which resulted in big bunches and berries, and an ensuing large harvest which meant that crop-thinning was especially important. However, finer weather during the autumn months delivered optimal fruit ripeness levels While there were challenges during the growing season, many producers successfully managed the vintage to produce some beautifully elegant wines. Let's see how this 2022 Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

GREYWACKE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#164228) (XD) - $26.95
Screw cap. Elegantly ripe with a medium-high intensity nose offers lovely and complex aromas of passion fruit, lime-lemon citrus, and leesy minerals with touches of grapefruit, guava, spice, kiwi, and melon adding nuance. It has a lovely, structured and textured mouthfeel, with equally impressive weight on the medium+ to medium-full bodied palate. It's dry with lovely ripe lime-lemon citrus, passion fruit, guava, and leesy mineral flavours. It's juicy and succulent with fresh, balanced, and saliva-inducing acidity. A touch spicy, plus intriguing notes of mango and melon add further complexity on the mid-palate, while leesy mineral notes linger on the long, juicy finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy the next 4-5 years. Score: 92 pts

Other fine wines from the Greywacke portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia / Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Alvi's Drift Signature Chardonnay 2021 (South Africa) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a delicious, sustainably-crafted, unoaked Chardonnay from South Africa that arrived at the LCBO over the summer in the July 22 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection - and still available for purchase right now.

It is produced by Alvi's Drift Winery, an award-winning, family-owned winery that was founded by Alvi van der Merwe and his wife, Hester, in the early 2000s. Although the winery is relatively new, its roots go back to 1928, when a young, unknown rugby player by the name of Albertus Viljoen van der Merwe - "Alvi" to his friends - made history by scoring the first try in history against the All Blacks on African soil. A few years before retiring from rugby, Oupa (Grandad) Alvi acquired a piece of fertile farmland nestled on the banks of the Breede River in the Western Cape's majestic Breede River Valley. In 1930, a low-water bridge was built across the river running through the property to allow locals easier access to the land. This bridge was locally christened, and still known today as "Alvi's Drift", after Oupa Alvi, as he was instrumental in building it.

Today, the farm is in the hands of Alvi van der Merwe, the grandson of Oupa. He has turned both the farm and the family legacy for crafting exceptional wines into a vision that surpassed all expectations. Alvi is widely known for being a perfectionist, while also being dedicated and passionate about the winemaking craft. Although he initially studied medicine, his passion for creating world-class wines from this family's vineyards persisted, and in 2003 he returned home from practicing abroad to assist his father, Bertie, with managing the family's orchards, vineyards, and winery.

While Bertie was focused mostly on bulk wine production, Alvi began exploring his passion for winemaking. After one year, once Bertie had picked all of his grapes, Alvi was allowed to pick and use any remaining grapes. He put in a lot of effort to create a bit of Chardonnay and Muscat de Frontignan and bought his own barrels and bottles, and actually won quite a few awards with his first wine and Alvi's Drift Winery was born.

Together with his wife, Junel - a Cape Wine Master and well-known lecturer, speaker, and wine expert - Alvi and Junel form a formidable partnership that, along with their winemaking team, has built a reputation for creating exceptional wines of singular character and complexity. The end goal is always the same: nothing less than excellence in every outcome.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Chardonnay that was grown in WO Western Cape, in an area that has a Mediterranean micro-climate, an abundance of soil diversity, and water from the life-giving Breede River. Alvi's Drift vineyards are ideally positioned for producing remarkable wines of unique character and complexity. The vineyards are sustainably fertilised with natural compost that is produced on their farm, as well as meticulously managed to ensure optimal quality and flavour. At harvest, the grapes are selectively hand-harvested in the cool, early morning hours, while ensuring that only the healthiest and perfectly ripe bunches are used for making quality wine. At the winery, the winemaking team strongly focuses on making wines that preserve the fruit-driven expression of the grapes. To craft this wine, only premium free-run juice was used. It was fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged on its lees for several months prior to fining, stabilising, and bottling.

From a cooler-than-normal vintage that delivered exceptional wines, let's see how this 2021 Chardonnay from South Africa is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ALVI'S DRIFT SIGNATURE CHARDONNAY 2021 - WO Western Cape, South Africa (#21151) (XD) - $14.95
Screw cap. The medium+ intensity nose offers apple, pear, and lemon citrus aromas nuanced with buttery notes and hints of melon and green herbs. It has very good weight and structure on the medium-full bodied palate with dry and lightly honeyed and spicy flavours of delicious apple, pear, buttery, and herbs, with a nice textural mouthfeel, plus some leesy mineral notes that appear on the mid-palate. Lively acids are fresh and juicy, while leesy mineral, herbal, apple, and pear notes all appear on the long, crisp finish. Recommended buy! Score: 88+ pts

One other wine by Alvi's Drift can be found at the LCBO, while the entire portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Churchill Cellars.

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Skouras Wild Ferment Assyrtiko 2022 (Greece) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely wild fermented Assyrtiko from Greece. It brand new to the LCBO, arriving in-store (and online) as part of last weekend's November 4 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Domaine Skouras, a well-known winery that was founded by George Skouras, who was born in Argos, within the Peloponnese region, in southern Greece. Argos is one of the oldest towns in Europe with a 3,000 year tradition of wine and culture. George's interest in wine led him to study Agriculture at the University of Dijon, in Burgundy, France, in 1980. However, it was his acquaintance with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, as well as meeting the famous local wine growers, that put a spell on him. Upon graduating from Dijon with a degree in oenology, George started gathering experience in many of the classic wine-producing regions in France, Italy, and Greece.

In 1986, George's long-held vision of having his own winery was realized with the creation of Domaine Skouras. The small winemaking facility was initially located in Pyrgela, a small village on the outskirts of Argos, followed by the creation of a boutique winery within the Nemea Appellation of northeastern Peloponnese, in the village of Gimno. In Nemea, George performed countless hours of manual work on an extremely small scale while learning about the Agiorgitiko variety and the Nemea denomination - lessons which became invaluable.

Today, Domaine Skouras is an ultra-modern winery that remains located in Nemea, in the highlands of Argolida, an area that is blessed with ideal winegrowing conditions, particularly for the Agiorgitiko variety. The winery is situated in Argolida, northeastern Peloponnese, close to the provinces of Corinthia and Arcadia, just a few kilometres from Argos, in the village of Malandreni. The Nemea zone is the largest - and quite possibly the most exciting - Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) for red wines in Greece, while the nearby PDO of Mantinia and other surrounding areas which do not have PDO status have excellent terroirs for viticulture. Domaine Skouras owns a number of vineyards across all of these areas.

As a skilled winemaker, George Skouras is dedicated to crafting high-quality wines that showcase Greek terroir. In addition to their own vineyards, Skouras also collaborates with select, quality-oriented vine growers, under the expert guidance of the Skouras viticulture team. The philosophy at Domaine Skouras is focused on purity, varietal clarity, tracing of the region's mesoclimate, and imprint of the terroir, with the aim of achieving optimum ripeness and obtaining the best possible grape, as the better the fruit is at harvest, the better the wine. Contributing to the winery's success, Domaine Skouras embraces modern techniques, while putting a strong emphasis on minimal intervention in the winemaking process.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Assyrtiko that was grown in the village of Gymno, Nemea, at 620 metres above sea level. The vines are fairly young, averaging 9 years old, and planted on red clay soil. After harvesting the grapes in September, they are whole bunch pressed and underwent alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel, followed by 4 months of sur lie ageing, all in stainless steel. Let's see how this 2022 Assyrtiko from Greece is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

SKOURAS WILD FERMENT ASSYRTIKO 2022 - PGI Peloponnese, Greece (#32387) (XD) - $25.95
Screw cap. The attractive, medium-high intensity nose is ripe and inviting with a lovely mix of lemon citrus, leesy mineral, grapefruit, and tropical fruit aromas, plus hints of white peach, floral, and saline adding further complexity. It's medium-full bodied and dry on the nicely structured palate with delicious grapefruit, lemon citrus, leesy mineral, peach, and floral replays. Some saline and spice characters appear on the mid-palate. Acids are fresh and juicy with nice structure. It's nicely balanced throughout with citrusy, mineral, and subtle spice notes lingering on the long and very juicy finish. Enjoy over the next 5-6 years, and quite possibly longer. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Other lovely wines by Domaine Skouras (including the 2022 Skouras Cuvée Prestige White which also arrived in this release) can be found at the LCBO, or ordered through their Agent - Kolonaki Fine Wines & Spirits.

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Domaine Pinson Frères Mont-de-Milieu Chablis 1er Cru 2021 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is an excellent Chablis Premier Cru that arrived at the LCBO as part of the recent October 7 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection as an Online & Flagship Exclusive - with inventory available both online and in-store.

It is produced by the renowned Domaine Pinson, a winemaking family with a long and storied history in the heart of Chablis that began with the construction of the family cellars in the year 1580. Winemaking in the Pinson family was documented in Chablis up until the year 1640, after which it returned in 1880, when the family farmed vineyards and other crops. In 1940, Louise Pinson and his wife, France, owned approximately 4 hectares of vineyards in the region of Chablis, including the sub-appellations of Chablis 1er Cru Montmain, Mont de Milieu, and Grand Cru Les Clos. Louise and France were dedicated solely to viticulture and the production of Chablis wines, and their Domaine became very popular with visitors.

In 1983, Laurent Pinson, the grandson of Louis, arrived at the Domaine following his studies in Beaune, and worked on the vines with his grandfather, while learning about and respecting the traditions of Chablis. In 1987, Christophe Pinson, the brother of Laurent, started working at the Domaine. At this point, Louis retired from the family business, while Laurent and Christophe took over the Domaine with the desire to see it succeed and grow. The Pinson brothers undertook new plantings on the family land and grew the number of vines to 14 hectares.

Laurent and Christophe further developed the Domaine in 2004 by creating a new vat room, storage buildings, a new pressing room, as well as renovating the two large vaulted cellars intended for ageing wines. In 2008, the next generation of the Pinson family joined the Domaine when Charlène Pinson, daughter of Laurent, arrived at the farm following her studies in viticulture-oenology in Beaune. In 2019, the estate obtained its High Environmental Value (HVE) level 3 designation, reaffirming its commitment to sustainable production practices, including preservation of the environment and protecting biodiversity.

Today, the philosophy at Domain Pinson is that great wines begin with good grapes. Their passion and love for working the vines and the Chablisian soil allows the Pinson family to obtain the best fruit. Growing almost exclusively Chardonnay, all of the grapes are hand-harvested. They respect family traditions, while also applying modern techniques and respecting the environment. With roots in Chablis going back 450 years, the Pinson family remains united in their passion for excellence in wine.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Chardonnay that was grown in the Climat of Mont-de-Milieu The name "Mont-de-Milieu", which means "Mountain in the Middle", refers to peculiarity of this hillside that used to have a boundary running through its middle ("milleu") - one side which was in the jurisdiction of Chablis (which used to be located in the County of Champagne), and the other side which was in Fleys, in the Duchy of Bourgogne. Located on a hillside, Mont de Milieu is protected from the northern winds by the forest. The climate in Mont de Milieu is bathed in sunshine from morning to evening due to its south-southeast exposure to the sun, on an average slope. The soil in this Climat is often said to be homogeneous throughout its 44 hectares with clay and limestone of the Kimmeridgien type with small white limestone pebbles.

From vines averaging 20 years old, the grapes were manually harvested and underwent both alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in thermo-regulated vats and (10%) new barrels. The wine was aged on its fine lees in 228 Litre oak barrels for 9 months, with stirring, with the age of the barrels ranging from 2 to 6 years old, and was bottled 12 months after harvest.

From a challenging vintage where the best producers were able to make small quantities of great wines, let's see how this 2021 Mont-de-Milieu Chablis 1er Cru is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE PINSON FRÈRES MONT-DE-MILIEU CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2021 - AC, Burgundy, France (#700914) (XD) - $74.95
100% Chardonnay. Elegant, refined, medium+ to medium-high intensity aromatics offers ripe lemon citrus, stony minerality, and apple with accents of white peach. It's medium-bodied with a lovely chewy, well-structured, and textured mouthfeel with complex, ripe flavours of lemon citrus, apple, oyster-shell, and leesy mineral accented with orange and honey notes, plus touches of vanilla and butter. It's juicy with succulent acidity, and has a chalky textured mouthfeel on the mid-palate. Excellent length on the elegant finish which lingers for minutes, with stony, leesy mineral notes, plus touches of honey and apple. Immensely pleasurable now, but will be even better with a couple of years in the cellar and should drink well to the end of the decade. Highly recommended buy! Score: 94 pts

Other fine wines by Domaine Pinson can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia / Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Les Vignerons du Castelas Le Monarque Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2022 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, organic, Viognier-based white wine blend from Rhône that arrived at the LCBO over the long weekend in the October 7th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Les Vignerons du Castelas, a co-operative winery that was established in 1952 by a handful of winegrowers that were keen to combine their efforts and wills to produce appellation wines of high quality. The co-op is located in Rochefort du Gard, between Pont d'Avignon and Pont du Gard, on the right bank of the Rhône River, and is named after a XII century Romanesque chapel that is perched atop the village. The origins of Rochefort du Gard as a winegrowing village goes back to 1933, when it became one of the first villages to be approved in the, at the time, very young Côtes du Rhône Appellation, officially gained its status within the appellation in 1937.

Following the formation of the co-op, the winery opened its doors three years later, in 1955, on the eve of harvest, and inscribed on the cellar walls was the quote "Less wine but better" - a philosophy that still holds today. Since that time, several generations have followed one another and, together, they continue to make wines with respect for tradition, while also respecting the people and the land.

Today, 45 families of winemakers, who are attached to their land and vineyard, form Les Vignerons du Castelas. Together, they have over 450 hectares of vineyards, mainly in the Côtes du Rhône appellation, with four distinct soil characteristics - deep soils on stony spreads, marl soils, sandy soils, and Villafranchian terraced floors - with each soil type playing an important role in the character of the wine. The families of winegrowers cultivate their quality vines in order to create supple and pleasurable wines for every occasion. The winemakers of Rochefort du Gard are committed, by vocation, to healthy vines on a living soil, to create wines that express the enthusiasm and sincerity of their work accomplished with passion, knowledge, and sensitivity.

The name of this wine - Le Monarque - comes from the butterfly that is found in their region, in the Rhône Valley, and migrates every summer to Africa, travelling more than 4,000 kilometres during its journey. As a wine that seems to show up every couple of years, I last enjoyed the 2019 Les Vignerons du Castelas Le Monarque Côtes du Rhône Blanc just over two years ago. For this vintage, it continues to be a blend of 60% Viognier, 20% Grenache Blanc, and 20% Roussanne, as per the back label. The grapes were grown on sandy marl soils which are mainly composed of clay, limestone, and carbonate sand. The grapes were harvested by machine at night to preserve freshness and underwent a slow, 1-month fermentation in temperature-controlled vats. The wine was matured in concrete tanks and bottled at the property without any added sulphites. Let's see how this 2022 Côtes du Rhône Blanc is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LES VIGNERONS DU CASTELAS LE MONARQUE CÔTES DU RHÔNE BLANC 2022 - AP, France (#18570) (XD) - $17.95
This organic white wine is a blend of 60% Viognier, 20% Grenache Blanc, and 20% Roussanne. Fragrant and highly attractive aromas of yellow and white florals, lemon citrus, ripe apple, and pear with white peach and herbally tones. It's medium-full bodied and impressively concentrated on the fleshy palate with lovely yellow and white floral, lemon citrus, apple, pear, and herbal replays in a dry flavour profile. Some leesy mineral notes appear on the nicely textured, slightly oily palate. Juicy with fresh, zesty acidity, while citrusy, orchard fruit, and leesy mineral notes linger on the long, succulent, and lightly spicy finish. Lots going on here and a highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other delicious wines by Les Vignerons du Castelas can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia / Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Altugnac Terres Amoureuses 2021 (Limoux) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely Chardonnay (with a splash of Mauzac) from the Limoux appellation in Languedoc that arrived at the LCBO last month as part of the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on September 23rd.

It is produced by Domaine Altugnac, one of two wine estates owned by Collovray et Terrier - two winegrowing families situated in Burgundy and Languedoc. Christian Collovray and Jean-Luc Terrier had been friends since childhood and shared a love for the vines and wine. Their bond grew even closer when they married two sisters, Brigitte and Florence, who also came from a family of winegrowers. Together, the four of them dreamt of creating an estate to make wine from Christian's and his father's vines - a dream that became a reality in 1986.

The story of Domaine Altugnac begins in 1997, when the Collovray & Terrier families arrived in Languedoc with a desire to explore new horizons and take on new challenges. Coming from Burgundy, the quality of the white wines in Languedoc appealed to them, especially those from high in the Aude Valley where mostly Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are planted on limestone soils. Harvest dates were within a few days compared to those back in Davayé (Burgundy), while the vegetative cycles were also very similar.

Altugnac is located on the western edge of Languedoc, in the Pyrenean foothills, where the vines flirt with the scrub land and the woods. It is at the crossroads of the Atlantic and Mediterranean winds and experiences sunny days and cool nights. The village of Altugnac is peaceful, dominated by an amphitheatre of mountains, and surrounded by breathtaking landscapes - all an invitation to imagine and create unique wines.

Prior to the arrival of Collovray & Terrier, the domaine was owned by Mr. Ramirez. He was one of the founding members of the association of private cellars, and one of the first to imagine Chardonnay in the Aude Valley. After taking over the domaine, Collovray & Terrier undertook the colossal project to revitalize the 45 hectares of vineyards and rebuild the facilities.

Today, as a family business, six members of the Collovray & Terrier family work within the company, with a strong sense of cohesion, and with the support of a close-knit, loyal, and dedicated team. With roots in agriculture, their philosophy begins in the vineyard by working the soil and respecting the vegetation - prerequisites for healthy, ripe, and high-quality grapes. The objective is perfection, by which they strive to master each step of the winemaking process from vineyard to bottle. They also adapt to the year's weather conditions and evolve and experiment. The goal is to reveal the diversity of their terroirs, while also protecting and developing biodiversity.

This white wine is named "Terrres Amoureuses", which translates to "Lands of Love", and is crafted mainly with Chardonnay that was grown among 30 hectares of vines that were planted in the early 1970s and are some of the oldest in Languedoc. Grown in the Aude Valley at 400 metres above sea level, the terroir consists of clay and limestone soils that are covered with a gravelly surface layer composed of black earth rich in schist debris, which is typical of the area and unique to Antugnac. At this altitude, the vines have a south/south-easterly aspect while facing the Pyrenees, while also having great exposure to the sun, winds, and a micro-climate that favours a slow and long maturation period. Overall, the valley has a Mediterranean climate with mountain influences, and experiences dramatic diurnal temperatures between days and nights.

To craft this white wine, which is mainly Chardonnay and a small amount of Mauzuc, the grapes were harvested manually and delicately loaded into the press by gravity. The grapes are slowly pressed and decanted into stainless steel tanks. After settling, the juice is transferred by gravity into barrels to undergo alcoholic and malolactic fermentation. The wine remains in barrels, with only 20% new, and is aged on fine lees for a further 10 to 12 months. The wines are then assembled with their lees and undergo further ageing in stainless steel vats prior to bottling the following spring. Let's see how this 2021 white wine from Limoux is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ALTUGNAC TERRES AMOUREUSES 2021 - AP Limoux, Languedoc, France (#16413) (XD) - $26.95
Primarily Chardonnay with a splash of Mauzac, this barrel-fermented white wine has a fresh, medium-high intensity nose that offers attractive and ripe stone fruit, pear, quince, apple, and citrus aromas which mingle with mealy and earthy mineral notes. On the medium-full bodied palate it is dry and ripe with apple, quince, pear, and lemon citrus flavours joined by lovely mealy and mineral notes, plus touches of vanilla and a twist of honey adding further complexity. Elegant, structured, and finely textured with fresh, juicy acidity, while mealy, mineral, stone fruit, and citrus notes with a touch of spice linger on long, flavourful finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Other lovely wines by Altugnac and Collovray et Terrier can be ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Hãhã Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (New Zealand) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, sustainably-crafted Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand that landed at the LCBO last month as part of the September 9 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Hãhã Wine, a winery based in the Hawke's Bay wine region, on the North Island of New Zealand. It was founded by three families who came together to share their passion for wine. This partnership is at the foundation of a sharing and caring culture that is carried out in all aspects of the winemaking process, from vineyard to bottle. With a background in farming and fishing export, the company has a deep respect for the land. To go along with a strong commitment to an environmentally responsible approach, all of Hãhã Wine vineyards, wineries, and bottling facilities are certified 100% sustainable by Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand.

The name of this wine producer comes from the Māori language of Te Reo, where Hãhã means to catch your breath. The breath of conversation which brings us together also leads to discussions and reflections, and the memories and stories binding the past to the present and the present to future ventures. The breath weaves worlds together and is the inspiration behind the Hãhã logo.

As a family-owned winery, they are focused and quality-driven, while also built on a generosity of spirit towards each other and the land. Internationally acclaimed, Hãhã's range of premium quality wines are a true expression of both the long, warm summers of Marlborough and the temperate climate of Hawke’s Bay, while also sharing a place, a time, and a belonging. With an uncompromising commitment to quality, Hãhã wines are now one of New Zealand's fastest growing wine brands and are available across the world.

Crafted with 100% Sauvignon Blanc, the grapes for this white wine were harvested early in the morning from vineyards situated in the Wairau and Awatere Valleys. The grapes were lightly pressed, while the juice was cool-fermented with selected yeasts to preserve the aromatic characters of the fruit.

The 2022 growing season in New Zealand was the warmest ever recorded. Along with favourable rain post-flowering, the warm temperatures helped deliver a fantastic fruit crop. Harvest was early and compact, which allowed the talented winemaker at Hãhã to produce fabulous, well-balanced, and flavourful wines that rival the last two vintages. Let's see how this 2022 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

HÃHÃ SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#388363) (XD) - $18.95
Sustainably crafted and enclosed by screw cap, this has a clean, fragrant, fresh, and well-balanced nose of ripe tropical fruit, guava, passion fruit, kiwi, lime citrus, grassy, and herbal aromas. On the dry, mid-weighted palate it offers deliciously ripe lime citrus, passion fruit, guava, grassy, and herbal flavour replays joined by some mineral notes. It's all supported by fresh and lively acidity. It is composed, elegant, and nicely balanced throughout with lime citrus, guava, and mineral notes lingering on the long, succulent, and juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other delicious wines by Hãhã Wine can be purchased at the LCBO, or through their Agent - Perigon Beverage Group.

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Domaine Hamelin Beauroy Chablis 1er Cru 2021 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a beautiful Chablis Premier Cru from Burgundy that arrived at the LCBO as an Online & Flagship Exclusive in the recent September 9 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Domaine Hamelin, a small, family-owned winery with a long winemaking history in the village of Lignorelles, in Burgundy, just minutes from the town of Chablis. The history of the domaine begins when Gustave Hamelin planted 2 hectares of vines in 1840, alongside his mixed farm. In 1880, Pierre Hamelin grew the domaine to 3 hectares of vines and used his mules to help work them. At this time, the wines were held in 132 litre barrels and gave rise to the name "feuillette" or little cask, and were transported by river using barges or rafts.

In 1911, Georges Hamelin extended the property to 4 hectares and worked the vines by horse, while transporting the wines in feuillettes by railway. In 1936, Pierre Hamelin took over the domaine from his father and further developed the vineyard and winery by using some of the industry's latest technological advancements and continuing well into the next decade. In 1970, Marc Hamelin created his own vineyard, while also adding an area he inherited from his father.

Today, Domaine Hamelin is run by the sixth and seventh generations of the family - Thierry and his son, Charles. They run the estate together while perpetuating the wine traditions of Chablis and knowledge that has been handed down from one generation to the next. They harvest their grapes from nearly 37 hectares of vines which extend over the villages of Poinchy, Beines, and Lignorelle. The focus at Domaine Hamelin is mainly on Chablis wines, using a mix of old traditions and modern-day techniques to craft wines that express their terroir. The wines are crafted by the Hamelin family in a well-controlled environment with thermo-regulated processes, including bottling at the estate at the optimal moment.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Chardonnay, from vines that were planted between 1980 and 1982 on very strong, south-facing slopes (30 - 45% / 16.5 - 24 degrees), opposite the Lac de Beines, and extends from the bottom of the valley to the top of the slopes. The soils on this slope consist of Kimmeridgian sub-soils that give the wine its intensity and the typicity of the character of a fine Chablis Premier Cru. The 3.9 hectare vineyard is managed under the strict conditions of Chablis tradition, with the grapes virtually guaranteed to reach maturity every year. The grapes are mostly harvested mechanically, and after being selected, sorted, and fermented, the wine is aged for 12 to 18 months in stainless steel vats prior to bottling.

The 2021 growing season in Chablis was a difficult one with frost, mildew, oidium, and botrytis, resulting in reduced volumes. However, with great attention to the vineyard and technical expertise in the winery, this vintage did produce wines with a classic profile full of vibrant acidity and a particularly strong terroir influence that highlights minerality. Having enjoyed the excellent 2019 Domaine Hamelin Beauroy Chablis 1er Cru last year, let's see how this 2021 Chablis 1er Cru is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE HAMELIN BEAUROY CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2021 - AC, Burgundy, France (#391805) (XD) - $45.95
100% Chardonnay raised in stainless steel, this has a lovely, open, fragrant, and highly aromatic on the nose with earthy/stony minerals flecked with lemon citrus, apple, pear, and herbal aromas, plus touches of pleasant bitter notes adding further savoury characters. It is quite the mouthful on the medium-full bodied, well-structured palate with very impressive concentration. It's dry with stony mineral flavours layered over lemon citrus, apple, pear, and green herbal notes which are supported by crisp, juicy acidity. It has a nice texture on the gently spicy mid-palate, while oyster-shell notes join the stony mineral, apple, pear, and lemon replays on the exceptionally long, balanced finish. Enjoy to the end of the decade, maybe a bit longer. Highly recommended buy! Score: 94 pts

Other fine wines by Domaine Hamelin can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia and Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Pauly Generations Riesling 2021 (Mosel) - Wine Review

After enjoying the lovely 2019 Axel Pauly Generations Mosel Riesling a couple of years ago, tonight's white wine review is the latest vintage of this terrific vegan wine that arrived at the LCBO last weekend as an Online & Flagship Exclusive in the September 9 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

This white wine is produced by Axel Pauly, the third generation of his family to work the vines on the very steep slopes of Mosel, Germany. Axel started managing the cellar in 2004, after it was passed down from his grandfather to his father, Rudolf. In 2009, Axel took over the entire family estate and, just two years later, unfortunately, the winery burned to the ground. However, it turned out to be a blessing in disguise and Axel had the estate rebuilt over the next several years and, in 2014, it was voted one of the 50 most beautiful vinotheques in Germany by the German Wine Institute. The labels of Axel Pauly wines were designed by Swedish designers and (turn the bottle 90° counter-clockwise for a better visual) feature three curved lines which are actually profiles of three generations of the Pauly family - Peter, Rudolf and Axel. Furthermore, an overhead view of the Mosel River is also embedded in the label.

Axel Pauly is known for producing high-quality wines, and particularly for its Riesling wines. He cultivates his vines on approximately 9 hectares of vineyards that are situated in some of the most prestigious and sought-after locations along the Mosel River, some of which have a gradient of up to 70%! These steep slopes provide the optimal conditions for Riesling cultivation, with the angle of the slopes maximizing sun exposure and heat retention. All of the vineyards face south or southwest, and consist exclusively of different layers of slate rock. When developing his wines, Axel is committed to traditional winemaking techniques, while focusing on naturalness, straightforwardness, and the typical taste patterns imparted by the soils of Mosel. Like many others in the region, Pauly has adopted sustainable and environmentally friendly practices, which helps preserve the unique character of the region and its wines. Axel Pauly wines are characterized by clarity, a crystalline characteristic, length, and great minerality.

This medium-sweet Riesling was grown on grey and blue slate soils in a cool, moderate climate. The grapes were hand-picked from the steep slopes and then macerated for 10 hours, followed by spontaneous fermentation using natural yeasts in stainless steel. The wine was matured on its fine yeast lees for 4-5 months.

The growing season in Mosel in 2021 was significantly cooler and wetter compared to previous years for the south-facing, top vineyards. This was particularly favourable for the vines and allowed them to continue their old successes. The cooler and wetter year was most reflected in higher must weights, which is the amount of sugar in the juice. With Mosel characterized by its steep slopes and 90% of the grapes' white wine varieties, mainly Riesling, most winemakers in the area assessed the grapes positively and in good health, while expecting predominantly fruity and tangy wines. Let's see how this 2021 Mosel Riesling is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

PAULY GENERATIONS RIESLING 2021 - Qualitätswein, Mosel, Germany (#21033) (M) - $25.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this vegan-friendly Mosel Riesling has a medium-high intensity nose that offers slatey, earthy mineral, lemon citrus, and pear aromas with touches of white peach and floral. It has good weight on the medium to medium-full bodied palate with lovely tangy and off-dry flavours of lemon citrus, white peach, pear, and ripe apple joined by hints of honey and floral characters. Fresh, lively acidity keeps the sweetness in check. It's nicely balanced with lightly honeyed, citrus, and mineral notes lingering on the pleasantly long finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other fine wines by Axel Pauly can be ordered through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.

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Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Les Caillottes Sancerre 2021 (Loire) - Wine Review

After enjoying the beautiful 2020 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Les Caillottes Sancerre in April, tonight's white wine review is the latest vintage of a perennially excellent Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre that arrived at the LCBO last weekend, as part of the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on September 9th.

This white wine is crafted by one of my favourite producers, Jean-Max Roger, a renowned wine producer based in the village of Bué, just southwest of the town of Sancerre, within the Loire Valley wine region in France. The Roger family comes from a long line of winegrowers, with the first mention of the family name dating back to the 17th century. Up until the 1960s, the Roger family practiced mixed farming with animal rearing. When Jean-Max Roger and his wife, Nicole, took over the 4 hectares of vines from his parents in the 1970s, they focused their attention on developing the vineyards and estate.

Under the guidance of Jean-Max, the winery experienced significant growth and gained recognition for producing exceptional Sancerre wines. Today, the estate covers 28 hectares of vines within the Sancerre appellation, with more than 40 plots that offer exceptional diversity of exposure, slope, and soil profiles which are dispersed among the region's three most renowned terroirs - Caillottes, Kimmeridgian Marl, and Flint. This diversity, combined with the Roger family's winemaking expertise, allows each wine to express all of the uniqueness of their terroirs through their structure, elegance, and finesse.

Jean-Max Roger's passion for wine was naturally passed on to his sons, Thibault and Etienne, and in 2004, the brothers joined their father at the family estate. While complementing each other, the brothers perpetuate the family's know-how, vineyard and winemaking techniques to improve their wines with each passing vintage. The Roger family is dedicated to producing terroir-driven wines with finesse, purity, and typicity, which has helped solidify Jean-Max Roger's reputation as one of Sancerre's top wine producers.

Like previous vintages, this Sauvignon Blanc was grown in the villages of Bué, Amigny, and Sancerre, on limestone soils called "caillottes", with vineyard exposure to the south and southwest. The vines are roughly between 6 to 40 years of age and tended to produce grapes that reveal their terroir. Yields are controlled, while organic amendments and deep soil working revitalize soil life. At the winery, the wines are vinified to reflect the fruitiness and density of the vintage. After harvest, the grapes are immediately pneumatically pressed and cold settled for between 48 and 72 hours to protect the aromas. Temperature-controlled, long fermentation was carried out using natural yeasts, followed by ageing on its heavy lees to develop minerality. After fining and filtration to stabilize the wine, it was bottled at the estate using their own facilities.

The 2021 growing season in Sancerre was a complicated one with frost, mildew, and storms, with great variability on a daily basis. Yields were down with fewer clusters, but the fruit that was harvested is of high quality, resulting in wines that were surprisingly good. Let's see how this 2021 Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE LES CAILLOTTES SANCERRE 2021 - AC, Loire, France (#65573) (XD) - $36.95
100% Sauvignon Blanc. Elegant and beautifully intense, the aromatic nose offers lemon/lime citrus, stony minerality, grassy herbs, guava, tropical fruit, and grapefruit aromas with hints of melon. It's medium-full bodied, impressively concentrated, and well-structured on the crunchy palate. Dry and complex with lightly honeyed flavours of lemon/lime, citrus, white floral, ripe apple, and pear, with touches of guava, tapering to stony mineral notes. Gently spicy on the mid-palate. It has nicely textured mouthfeel that is supported by juicy, well-balanced acidity. Stony, leesy mineral notes linger on the exceptionally long, balanced finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other fine wines by Jean-Max Roger are available at the LCBO, as well as through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia and Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Cellier du Château de la Chaume Chablis 2022 and Beaujolais 2022 (France) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of delicious wines that are brand new to the LCBO, arriving earlier this summer as General List wines that are widely available at LCBO outlets across Ontario right now.

Both of these wines are produced by Cellier du Château de la Chaume, a very old Maison that is located in Burgundy, in the commune of Corgoloin, Côte de Nuits, and is surrounded by a 10 hectare park of trees. The castle belonged to the very influential Marey-Monge family from Beaune, while the Monge name was known because of Gaspard Monge (1746- 1818), a famous mathematician who created descriptive geometry. Some time later, the castle was sold to the former owner of Corgoloin's famous quarries. The high-quality marble from these quarries was distributed throughout the world to build monuments, squares, and roads.

Cellier du Château de la Chaume strives to work closely with winegrowers that share their values, which most importantly is the desire to create wines of excellence. The vines are trained while respecting viticultural tradition and methods in order to obtain high-quality and mature grapes. Partnership winegrowers are asked to favour working the soil and limit synthetics in order to favour environmental balance, while seeking Burgundy terroir and climate expressions.

The wines are vinified in the cellar of Château de la Chaume, which was created in 1993, and the winemaking facility was completely redesigned and modernized with a stainless steel wine storehouse. Each vintage is different, thus the wines are vinified according to the climate of the vintage, with length of maceration and extraction more or less pronounced, as well as ageing in tank and barrel, in order to highlight the terroir and qualities of the vintage, while trying to obtain wines with the best balance. The wines are carefully vinified to develop and amplify the original organoleptic qualities of the wines, resulting in wines that are rich, delicate, attractive, refined, complex, and smooth.

Cellier du Château de la Chaume has four ranges of wines across Burgundy (and Beaujolais) - Regional, Village, Premier Cru, and Grand Cru. The Beaujolais would fall under their Regional appellation range, while the Chablis is from their Village appellation range. The Village appellation wines are meant to be the first introduction to the complexity of Burgundy terroir, with limited yields that deliver nice concentration. The grapes are grown on clayed-chalky soils, hand harvested, and de-stemmed prior to fermentation in stainless steel or wood tanks, followed by ageing in mostly used barrels.

From a 2022 vintage that was very good in both Beaujolais and Burgundy, let's see how these two wines are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

CELLIER DU CHÂTEAU DE LA CHAUME CHABLIS 2022 - AC, Burgundy, France (#32568) (XD) - $35.95
From clayed-chalky soils, this Chardonnay has elegant, concentrated, and medium-high intensity aromas of ripe lemon citrus, apple, and pear with hints of stony minerality. It's light-to-medium bodied on the dry, ripe, and lightly honeyed palate with lemon citrus, apple, pear, and floral flavours, plus touches of oyster seashell mineral notes. Gently spicy on the mid-palate. It's all supported by crisp, bracing acidity. Juicy and lip-smacking, with seashell mineral notes lingering on the long finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

CELLIER DU CHÂTEAU DE LA CHAUME BEAUJOLAIS 2022 - AC, Beaujolais, France (#32624) (XD) - $18.95
100% Gamay. Fresh, medium-high intensity aromatics offer red and black cherry, wild berry, pomegranate, and raspberry fruit aromas that are accented with dried herbs and spice. It's medium-bodied on the dry and very ripe palate with fruit forward red and black cherry, raspberry, pomegranate, and currant flavours with hints of dried herbs. Juicy acids are well-balanced, while the light tannins offer a supple, lightly grippy texture. Fruity with a savoury, mineral edge on the finish, with very good length. Score: 88 pts

Other delicious wines by Cellier du Château de la Chaume can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Hidden Bench Béton Sauvignon Blanc 2021 (Niagara) - Wine Review

After enjoying the lovely 2022 Hidden Bench Locust Lane Rosé last month, tonight's white wine review is another lovely organic wine from the same producer. In fact, this is the first vintage for this wine and also brand new to the LCBO, arriving in-stores and online as part of the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on August 5.

Hidden Bench Estate Winery is one of Niagara's leading boutique wineries. It was founded in 2003 by Harald Thiel and family in Beamsville Bench when they acquired the Locust Lane vineyard. A year later, Hidden Bench purchased the Rosomel Vineyard, where this white wine was grown. Today, the focus at Hidden Bench is on artisanal, terroir-focused, and premium wines using grapes from their own, organic, estate vineyards. Their philosophy is based on a non-interventionist, quality-focused, and terroir-driven approach. Hidden Bench has a long, well-established reputation for excellence both domestically and internationally, and their wines have earned numerous accolades over the years, and much of their success can be attributed to their location within the VQA Beamsville Bench sub-appellation in Niagara.

This 100% Sauvignon Blanc was organically certified and estate grown at their Rosomel Vineyard on the Beamsville Bench. The Rosomel Vineyard is set on a broad terrace where the escarpment forms a double bench. The vineyard gently slopes northward towards the lake, with the edge of the vineyard bordered by wooded thickets on three sides, while the Bruce Trail runs along the upper bench, directly behind the vineyard. Because the vineyard is positioned between two benches, it is protected from harsher winds, while the gentle slopes and its proximity to the lake ensures that air circulates throughout the vineyard, and helps prevent frost or Botrytis.

In 2021, because of the wet growing season, they exposed the bunches at fruit-set to sunlight by removing leaves on the east side of the canopy, which also opened up air flow from the west side. A green harvest was done at the start of véraison, and they left only the healthiest bunches on the vine in order to promote ripeness, concentration of flavours, and the expression of terroir. The grapes were harvested and sorted by hand, then gently whole bunch pressed. The wine is named "Béton", which translates to "Concrete", because it was naturally fermented with indigenous yeasts in concrete tanks and remained in concrete for 7 months to age on its lees, until bottling.

The growing season in 2021 started with a mild and relatively dry winter which protected the buds. Spring was warm, leading to an earlier than average budbreak and was coupled with an excellent vegetative growth phase through May and June which resulted in early and complete flowering towards the Summer Solstice. The fruit set was excellent, while the crop size was larger than average and was supported by ample moisture and heat during July and August. Anticipating an excellent (and large) vintage, leaf removal to open the canopy, as well as fruit thinning and balancing throughout the summer to the end of August kept the winegrowing team busy. Rainfall during harvest presented challenges, but overall they were pleased with the quality of the fruit. The 2021 growing season will be remembered as a winegrower's vintage, where a nimble approach and attention to detail from vineyard to bottle helped produce very good, early varietal wines. Let's see how this 2021 Sauvignon Blanc from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

HIDDEN BENCH BÉTON SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021 - Rosomel Vineyard, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#33552) (XD) - $27.95
Fermented and aged in concrete tanks. Enclosed by screw cap. This lovely, organic Sauvignon Blanc has a fragrant nose that leads with intriguing flinty minerality aromas, followed by ripe lemon citrus and pear, plus some ripe tropical fruit, thyme, herbs, and grass notes that add complexity. It is impressively weighted on the medium-full bodied, nicely textured palate with lovely, dry flavours of ripe lemon citrus, pear, grapefruit, and flinty mineral, with touches of white peach and cucumber. Fresh acidity is juicy and succulent. It's somewhat spicy on the mid-palate, while citrus and mineral notes linger on the long, textured finish. Different, intriguing, and a highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other fantastic wines from Hidden Bench are available through the LCBO, their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits, or direct from the winery in Niagara.

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Stags' Leap Winery Chardonnay 2020 (Napa Valley) - Wine Review

After enjoying the excellent 2018 Stags' Leap Winery Petite Sirah earlier this year, tonight's white wine review is an excellent Chardonnay from the same producer that arrived at the LCBO last month as part of the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on July 22nd, with plenty of bottles still available for purchase across Ontario.

It is produced by the historic and well-regarded Stags' Leap Winery, which is located in the Stags Leap District of Napa Valley, California. The wine estate was established in 1893 by Horace Blanchard Chase and his wife, Mary, when they planted their first vineyards on the unique terroir of the Stags Leap District which is known for its volcanic soils, warm days, and cool nights, characteristics that provide the ideal microclimate for growing premium wine grapes. As one of California's oldest wine estates, the name Stags Leap is attributed to the native Wappo legend of a stag leaping to escape hunters, and the mountains behind the property on the eastern side came to be known as the Stags Leap Palisades.

The estate went through a series of ownership changes in the early part of the 20th century and gained significant recognition during the 1970s because its wine won first place in the 1976 Judgment of Paris tasting. Today, Stags' Leap Winery is renowned for producing high quality wines throughout their portfolio. Their goal is to convey the essence of their world-class terroir from grape to glass, and to create handcrafted wines that tell an authentic story of the land on which they are grown.

Crafted with 100% Chardonnay, the grapes for this white wine were sourced from the cooler southern appellations within Napa Valley, where the fog from San Pablo Bay helps cool the vineyards throughout the growing season and preserves the ideal freshness and acidity in the grapes. The majority of the fruit is from the Carneros AVA, which provides citrus, mineral, and crisp apple notes, while a smaller percentage is from the Oak Knoll AVA, which provides more tropical and stone fruit characters. Both of these vineyards produce Chardonnay that is ideal for Stags' Leap's style of winemaking - to craft wines with fresh fruit flavours, and bright acidity with vibrancy.

To craft this Napa Valley Chardonnay, Stags' Leap Winery gently whole-cluster pressed the grapes in order to preserve the naturally fresh aromatics. Twenty-five percent of the wine was fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks, while the remainder was fermented and aged in French oak barrels, with 25% in new oak and 50% in seasoned French oak. By using this specific method of barrel treatment, this helps preserve the essential purity of the fruit, while adding subtle notes of oak complexity. As is the style of Stags' Leap, the wine did not undergo malolactic fermentation, which further helps maintain the fruit's natural acidity, terroir expression, and aromatic freshness. The yeast lees were put in suspension during 7 months of maturation with weekly batonnage, then the three batches of wines were blended and bottled.

The 2020 growing season will be remembered for factors beyond the typical harvest season. Winter was warm and dry, with rain and cooler weather not arriving until the end of March. The mild spring offered a great, early start, while summer brought very cool mornings and very warm days. Stags' Leap Winery was very fortunate in that none of their vineyards were in the areas of active fires and they were able to harvest their grapes as planned. White wine grapes showed excellent development in the cellar, reflecting the fine vintage. The resulting wines of 2020 are of very high quality with concentrated flavours and excellent acidity, especially for varieties like Chardonnay. Let's see how this 2020 Napa Valley Chardonnay is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

STAGS' LEAP WINERY CHARDONNAY 2020 - Napa Valley, California, USA (#655381) (XD) - $44.95
The medium-high to highly aromatic nose is rich with impressive depth, featuring lovely aromas of lemon citrus, stone fruit, green apple, pear, and white peach with touches of vanillin oak spice, butter, and a hint of mineral. It has a concentrated, medium-full bodied, dry and spicy palate with delicious, ripe lemon citrus, green apple, pear, white peach, and gentle oak spice flavours, plus hints of vanilla, butter, and flinty mineral. It's nicely textured with fresh and vibrant acidity, while flinty mineral and oak spice notes linger on the long, juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92+ pts

While the Cabernet Sauvignon and small amounts of the Petite Sirah are available at the LCBO, the whole range can be ordered through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.

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Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret Fourchaume Chablis 1er Cru 2021 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

After enjoying the lovely 2020 Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret Petit Chablis earlier this year, for tonight's white wine review we take it up several notches with this excellent Chablis 1er Cru from the same producer. It arrived at the LCBO earlier this month as part of the July 8th LCBO VINTAGES Release New Collection and is available to buy now.

The story of Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret, a small, family-owned estate winery, begins in 1713 with Jean Vocoret, whose winemaking soul guided him to pass down his wisdom, his fruits, and the nobility of winemaking to his descendants, giving the current generation of the family the passion for craftsmanship in cultivating the vine and winemaking. The estate is located in the Chablis wine region of Burgundy, France, and is known for producing high-quality Chablis wines which are renowned for their purity, elegance, and mineral character. The estate has been passed down familial lines since its founding, and in the latter part of the 19th century, the Domain was renamed while in the hands of Yvon's great, great grandfather Victor Hyppolite Vocoret, who was born in 1863. At the time, they only had a few acres of vines and small barrels in the cellar.

Born in 1895, it was Yvon's grandparents, Henri and Louise Vocoret, who, despite the suffering during WWI, managed to make the land prosper with the help of his horses, his pride and joy, to produce excellent wine. As a winegrower, the richness of the profession compensated for the moral injury sustained from the horrible war, which affected him very deeply. Yvon's parents, Maurice and Huguette Vocoret, were the next owners of the Domain and together they carefully reflected upon the art of winemaking and innovated by investing in high-performing and efficient equipment for the cellar. They anticipated that with these improvements, the quality of their wines would gain recognition and respect. Since the time of Yvon's parents, the Domaine has maintained its reputation for producing high quality wines.

Today, the Domaine is in the hands of Yvon, son of Maurice and Huguette, and his son, Laurent, who is the 6th generation of the family. Also involved in the family business are the spouses, Christine, wife of Yvon, and Clémentine, wife of Laurent. Together, they have the same motivation as their ancestors and are grateful and respectful, as they continue to write the story of a humble, but determined, family of winegrowers. They use the same principles as generations that came before to respect the soil and grapes, and the wines that they produce. The wines of the Vocoret family are a reflection of the expertise and passion that has been handed down through the generations, while upholding the family motto of quality, dignity, and respect.

This Chablis 1er Cru is crafted with Chardonnay that was grown in Fourchaume, one of the best known, and largest, Premier Cru vineyards in Chablis. The Chardonnay vines average 45 years old and were grown on clayey-stony Kimmeridgian limestone soils on marl, with the limestone pebbles having a slightly whitish appearance. The vineyard has been farmed using organic amendments since 1974 and reasoned protection for the last 17 years to produce a noble product from protected lands, while also respecting the environment. The grapes were harvested using both manual and mechanical methods. It was vinified using the family's purest and simplest traditions for 5 generations, with both alcoholic and malolactic fermentations occurring naturally, as they wanted to respect the personality of the vintage. It was aged for 10 months in stainless steel tanks to retain freshness and character, with each plot allowed to express itself.

The challenging 2021 vintage can be broken down into three parts - cold at the beginning with frost, wet through the summer months, and variable during August and September. Yields were heavily reduced for whites, but the quality of what was picked was very good to excellent as it was a cooler-than-normal growing season. Let's see how this 2021 Chablis Premier Cru from Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE YVON & LAURENT VOCORET FOURCHAUME CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2021 - AC, Burgundy, France (#22776) (XD) - $52.95
100% Chardonnay from 45-year-old vines. Lovely, highly aromatic nose has flinty-earthy mineral aromas layered over lemon citrus and white floral, with impressive depth. It's medium+ weighted and dry with crisp, vibrant, and saliva-inducing acidity with lovely, ripe, and balanced aroma replays of lemon citrus, flinty mineral, and white floral flavours with a twist of honey and some spice notes. Gently tangy and tart on the mid-palate, while flinty-earthy mineral notes linger through to the exceptionally long, lightly chalky textured finish. Has the power to drink well to the end of the decade. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other fine wines by Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret can be purchased through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.

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Alois Lageder Terra Alpina Pinot Grigio 2022 (Alto Adige) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is the latest vintage of a lovely, organic Pinot Grigio from northern Italy. A perennial favourite of mine, this latest vintage arrived at the LCBO last month as part of the feature on "Summer Sippers" in the June 24th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and is readily available to buy now.

Terra Alpina wines are produced by Alois Lageder Winery, an historic family winery that was founded in 1823 and is located in Alto Adige in northern Italy. The long and rich history of the Lageder family and wine began in 1823 when the young craftsman Johann Lageder set himself up as a wine merchant in Bolzano. Beginning in 1934, his successors purchased vineyards to produce their own wines and, today, Alois Lageder is in the hands of the sixth generation of the family.

The project of Terra Alpina was initiated by the Lageder family as part of their initiative to collaborate with growers and neighbouring communities to produce high-quality wines that reflect their unique origin - the Dolomites - a mountain range located in northeastern Italy. The foothills of the Dolomite range offer both a cool Alpine and warm Mediterranean influence that allows the region to craft fresh, precise, and expressive wines which are also influenced by the prevalent Dolomitic limestone in the soil. With the Lageder family's centuries of experience and holistic understanding of nature, they are able to select the best terroirs and the optimal exploitation of the special climatic, geological, and topographic conditions in the area to produce exceptional wines.

Organic and biodynamic viticulture is top of mind at Alois Lageder as all of their own vineyards are farmed according to biodynamic principles. The Lageder family works with approximately 80 contract grape growers and share their knowledge and experience with partners from other regions, encouraging, motivating, and supporting them to convert to organic or biodynamic farming. Together with their partners, the Lageder family works in a way that responds to nature with great care, curiosity, and respect.

The grapes for this Pinot Grigio were grown in selected areas in the Dolomiti area at an altitude between 220 to 350 metres above sea level. These vineyards are planted on mostly Dolomitic limestone and volcanic porphyry soils, and experience a fairly cool meso-climate with great variations between day and night temperatures. The vines range between 14 and 34 years old. It was fermented using selected yeasts in stainless steel tanks, followed by maturation on fine lees for at least four months.

The 2022 growing season in Alto Adige yielded extraordinary whites due to the hot summer. The region experienced record-high temperatures as early as May, causing fast and early blossoming, including at higher altitudes. The hot and dry weather conditions continued into June, July, and August, leading to an early harvest. The white varieties did surprisingly well, turning out unusually powerful, but still fresh and fruity. It is expected that the classic characteristics of Alto Adige white wines will be preserved, even in such an exceptional year. Let's see how this 2022 Pinot Grigio from Alto Adige is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ALOIS LAGEDER TERRA ALPINA PINOT GRIGIO 2022 - IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti, Alto Adige, Italy (#681429) (XD) - $20.95
Screw cap enclosure. This organic Pinot Grigio has a bright, highly aromatic nose that is fresh, clean, and crisp with lovely ripe lemon citrus, white peach, and honeysuckle aromas accented with stony minerals and touches of herbal and white spice notes. It's medium-full bodied and quite concentrated on the dry, ripe palate with delicious white peach, lemon, citrus, grapefruit, white pepper spice, and leesy mineral flavours. It has crisp, juicy acidity, and exceptionally long on the juicy, balanced, lemon, white peach, and leesy mineral flavoured finish. Highly recommended buy from a great vintage! Score: 91 pts

Many other lovely wines by Alois Lageder can be ordered through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.

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Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Marnes et Caillottes Sancerre 2021 and La Grange Dîmière Sancerre Rosé 2022 (Loire) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of excellent wines from Sancerre in the Loire Valley that arrived at the LCBO over the weekend as part of the June 24 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Both of these wines are produced by Jean-Max Roger, a renowned producer from Sancerre in the Loire Valley, and is easily my favourite producer from the region. The Roger family comes from a long-line of winegrowers from the village of Bué, a commune within the Sancerre appellation and located to the west and a little to the south of the town of Sancerre. The Roger family name was first mentioned in the 17th century and up until the 1960s practiced mixed farming, which included animal rearing.

Jean-Max took over the family estate of 4 hectares of vines in the 1970s and, together with his wife, Nicole, developed the vineyards and estate. Under his guidance, the winery experienced significant growth and gained recognition for producing exceptional Sancerre wines. Jean-Max Roger is focused on crafting high-quality wines that reflect the unique terroir of Sancerre, which is renowned for its chalky limestone soils and cool climate.

Today, the estate is still operated by Jean-Max Roger and his wife. However, their passion and love for wine was transferred to both of their sons, and in 2004 both Thibault and Etienne joined the family estate. The brothers complement each other, perpetuating the family's know-how and techniques to improve their wines with each passing vintage. With a family estate that has grown to 28 hectares of vines in the Sancerre appellation and 6 hectares in Menetou-Salon, and with more than 40 plots that offer an exceptional diversity of exposure, slope, and soil profiles, this allows the Roger family to use their winemaking expertise to allow each wine to express all of the uniqueness of the terroirs through the wines structure, elegance, and finesse. Jean-Max Roger also maintains a sustainable approach to viticulture which helps preserve the vines and terroir, while not compromising on the production of top-quality grapes. The winery has also expanded over the years to include modern equipment, and combined with new techniques while respecting traditions, Jean-Max Roger is able to craft their wines under optimal conditions.

With vineyard management, Jean-Max Roger produces grapes to reveal its terroir. The vines are tended to using organic principles and working the deep soil to revitalize soil life. By using the Guyot Poussard pruning method, the result is better balance of the stock. They also perform spring disbudding to control yields, while using mechanical weed control which respects soil life. At the winery, Jean-Max Roger aims to produce wines reflecting the fruitiness and density of the vintage. The grapes are pneumatically pressed upon arriving at the winery, and cold settled for between 48 and 72 hours which helps protect deterioration of aromas, while also eliminating vegetal fragments and dust. The wines undergo a long, temperature-controlled fermentation using natural yeasts, which helps develop aromatic complexity, and follows with ageing on heavy lees to develop minerality. After fining and filtration, which helps stabilize the aromas and wine, it is bottled at the estate using their own facilities.

While the 2021 vintage was a good, but tricky vintage, the 2022 vintage was very good and referred to as possibly the best in the last 30 years. Having enjoyed previous editions of these wines such as the 2020 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Marnes et Caillottes Sancerre and the 2020 Jean-Max Roger La Grange Dîmière Sancerre Rosé, I would expect similar, if not better quality levels this time around. Let's see how this Sancerre Rosé and Sancerre Blanc wines from Loire Valley is tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE MARNES ET CAILLOTTES SANCERRE 2021 - AC, Loire, France (#196667) (XD) - $38.95
100% Sauvignon Blanc from 5 to 40 year-old vines grown in the villages of Bué & Amigny on Kimmeridgian Marls (Marnes) and Limestone (Caillottes) soils. Fresh, fragrant, and highly aromatic on the perfumed nose with spring flowers, lemon/lime citrus, herbs, and freshly cut grass aromas with a fine, flinty mineral underpinning. It's nicely textured on the medium+ bodied palate with fresh, lively acidity lifting the clean and ripe lemon/lime citrus, spring flower, herbs, and stony mineral flavours, plus some spicy notes on the mid-palate. It's nicely balanced throughout with a pleasantly chalky textured mouthfeel on the back palate. Lovely lemon/lime citrus and dried herbal notes taper to an exceptionally long, leesy mineral finish. My favourite in the portfolio and a highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

JEAN-MAX ROGER LA GRANGE DÎMIÈRE SANCERRE ROSÉ 2022 - AC, Loire, France (#490813) (XD) - $31.95
100% Pinot Noir grown on flint, Kimmeridgian marls & Limestone, Silex, Terres Blanches & Caillottes' soils from vines between 25 to 45 years old. The medium+ intensity nose is clean and fresh and red berry, strawberry, cherry, grapefruit, and citrus, and blood orange aromas underpinned by fine mineral notes. On the medium+ bodied palate it is dry, ripe, and lightly honeyed with lovely mineral, grapefruit, blood orange, red berry, strawberry, and cherry flavour replays. It has clean, succulent, and well-balanced acidity, along with a pleasant, chalky textured mouthfeel. Lightly spicy on the mid-palate, while mineral notes linger on the long finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

While a couple of other lovely wines by Jean-Max Roger can be found at the LCBO, the entire portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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