Wakefield Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (Australia) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of a lovely, consistently well-made Australian Cabernet Sauvignon that arrived at the LCBO last month in the July 22nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Wakefield Wines, a well-respected winery situated in the Clare Valley wine region of South Australia. The family winemaking business was established in 1969 by Bill Taylor Sr. He was inspired by the producers of Bordeaux and had a vision to craft estate wines that rival the best in the world. In Australia and New Zealand, they trade under their family name, Taylors Wines, but here in Canada and abroad, the wines are marketed under the Wakefield Wines brand.

When the Taylor family established their wine business, they wanted to create proper "old world" style estate wines, which are by definition when both the vineyards and winery are in the same location. This approach allowed the Taylor family to have ultimate control over the vineyards, winery, and even the bottling of the wines. The first wines they crafted were this Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, and an Estate Shiraz. These days, each wine is still crafted and bottled at the estate, but all of the fruit is not grown on the property. This is mainly due to the popularity of the wines - they need more fruit to meet demand, but also because fruit from other regions can be of higher quality.

Today, Wakefield Wines is led by the grandsons of Bill Taylor Sr. - brothers Mitchell, Justin, and Clinton, who represent the third generation of the family. The commitment from each generation of the family to the way the wines are crafted has earned the Taylors an enviable reputation and contributed to their continued success. Their love for winemaking, keen eye for detail, and commitment to excellence have made Wakefield Wines a renowned producer of top Australian wines.

The Taylor family is also committed to ensuring that they function in a responsible and sustainable manner on both land and sea. While their strong connection to the land is evident, their connection to the sea is equally strong, starting with their unique seahorse emblem that adorns each bottle of wine. Nationally and globally, the Taylor family has partnered with two organisations that are working to protect seahorses. On land, they favour innovative techniques to improve energy efficiency, water conservation, and packaging, as well as prevent or eliminate the production of waste or pollution. Their goal as a company is to apply best practice principles in environmental management which promote biodiversity to enhance sustainable business activities and products.

I've had the pleasure of tasting quite a few vintages of this delicious Cabernet Sauvignon, going back to at least the 2016 vintage. This wine is traditionally crafted with fruit exclusively from the Clare Valley. However, fruit from Limestone Coast played a minority role in the final blend of the 2019 Wakefield Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. For this vintage, the wine is still 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, but Limestone Coast fruit plays a major role with 67% Limestone Coast and 33% Clare Valley fruit.

The Limestone Coast zone is approximately 400 km south of the Clare Valley and includes, among others, the winegrowing regions of Coonawarra (one of the finest regions for Cabernet Sauvignon) and Padthaway. In 2020, the Limestone Coast zone produced small quantities of high quality fruit due to a cool spring that resulted in small berries with great fruit concentration and lovely tannins. Warm days and cool nights also provided the perfect ripening conditions. Let's see how this 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon from Australia is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

WAKEFIELD ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 - Limestone Coast / Clare Valley, South Australia (#744235) (XD) - $19.95
100% Cabernet Sauvignon that was matured for up to 12 months in used French oak barrels, with half in 2 year old barrels and the remainder in 3 year old barrels, prior to final blending and bottling. Elegantly fragrant, medium-high intensity aromatics offer attractive minty cassis, black currant, tomato leaf, and herbs with a savoury, earthy core, plus some oak spice and cocoa notes. It's medium-full bodied with fresh, lively acidity that lifts the minty, cassis, black currant, tomato leaf, and herbal flavours that become savoury with earthy and cocoa notes on the gently tangy mid-palate. Smooth, refined tannins are well-structured. Clean and well-balanced throughout with very good acid structure. Earthy, cedary oak, and cocoa with touches of mineral, plus some tangy notes on the long, well-structured finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 5+ years. Score: 89 pts

Many other lovely wines from the Wakefield Wines portfolio are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

Read More

Arboleda Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (Chile) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious, vegan-friendly Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile that is a perennial favourite at the LCBO that arrived in Ontario as part of the recent July 22nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

The Arboleda Wines project was founded in 1999 by Chilean vintner Eduardo Chadwick, a 5th generation member of the family that founded Viña Errazuriz. The name "Arboleda" means a grove of trees and is a tribute to the more than more than 1,450 hectares of native forest that surround its sustainably managed vineyards. The philosophy behind Eduardo's project is to craft single-vineyard wines that reveal the purest expression of each unique terroir within its vineyards in the Aconcagua Valley. This project was initially born as a joint venture between Eduardo Chadwick and legendary Californian vintner Robert Mondavi.

Today, the vision for the Arboleda project is to make the most sustainable, pure, and modern wines that showcase the world-class quality of the best terroirs in the Aconcagua Valley. The team is led by talented Winemaker Francisco Baettig, whose winemaking style produces wines marked by elegance, balance and the expression of the fruit’s origin. At Arboleda, the winemaking and viticultural team is committed to not intervening in the vineyard and environment as much as possible, allowing the vines to yield fruit with the purest expression of the terroir's intrinsic characteristics. They closely follow the progress of the vines and fruit throughout the entire season to better understand the terroir. This allows Arboleda to make accurate decisions, especially during the harvest period, which is key for grape health. This involves picking each lot at the precise time, avoiding degraded skins, and obtaining moderate alcohol and good acidity levels. After harvest, the grapes are very carefully selected and they use specific vinification techniques with the latest technologies for each lot, while focusing on maintaining the special characteristics of the grapes.

Arboleda was one of the country's first wineries to be certified under Chile’s National Sustainability Code that guarantees environmentally friendly production, social responsibility towards the community, and economic viability. They are committed to conserving the biodiversity in the Aconcagua Valley and have more than 1,450 hectares of native forest that have been kept virgin to protect the natural corridors that constitute a true habitat of flora and fauna. Water is also preserved in a reservoir that extends over 14 hectares.

This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon was grown at Arboleda's Las Vertientes vineyard, which is named after the freshwater springs found on the estate. The Las Vertientes vineyard is situated 37 km inland from the Pacific Ocean, within the Hijuelas locality. Although the climate in the vineyard is Mediterranean, it receives cool, coastal winds that blow in from the sea, refreshing the climate and allowing the grapes to slowly ripen. The vineyard is surrounded by hills, with the vines sitting on gentle slopes and part of the alluvial plain. The blocks of Cabernet Sauvignon are planted on flat sections of the vineyard, where the soil is clay-loam or sandy-loam and generally 90–200 cm deep. The stone content varies between 30% and 40%, and drainage is good throughout. These vines were planted in 1999 and 2000 with ungrafted vines from a massal selection. To craft this wine, the grapes were double-sorted and fermented in stainless steel tanks. It was aged for 14 months in French oak, barrels, 30% new.

The 2020 growing season was a challenging one, beginning with one of the driest winters of the last 50 years. The vineyards in the Aconcagua Valley had to endure an intense hydric marathon in order achieve ripeness. Temperatures were warm, especially during spring, and became slightly colder in March and April. Crop yields were moderate thanks to abundant irrigation in summer, which also helped maintain freshness and quality. I was first introduced to the wines of Arboleda just over 7 years ago and have consistently enjoyed them ever since. Let's see how this 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ARBOLEDA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 - Vegan, DO Valle del Aconcagua, Chile (#606764) (XD) - $19.95
This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon has a fresh, medium-high intensity nose that is open with evergreen, forest herbs, red and black berry fruit, currant, and gentle oak spice aromas with savoury earth undertones. It's medium-full bodied on the fresh palate with ripe red and black fruits, currants, and dried herb flavours accented with oak spice, evergreen, and cassis notes. It is nicely balanced with fresh, juicy acidity and fine-grained, lightly grippy tannins. Savoury with cedary oak notes lingering on the long finish. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

A couple of other fine wines by Arboleda are available at the LCBO, while the whole range can be ordered through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.

Read More

Montebuena Cuvée KPF 2020 (Rioja) - Wine Review

After enjoying the 2019 Montebuena Cuvée KPF nearly a couple of years ago, tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of this delicious Tempranillo from Rioja that arrived at the LCBO last weekend as part of the July 22nd LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced for Kysela Pere et Fils, Ltd. by a co-op that was established in the 1960s and is now the largest co-operative in the Basque Country in northern Spain. Kysela was founded in 1994 by Master Sommelier Fran Kysela, who inherited his interest in wine from his father, one of the top collectors of fine wine in Spain, and still maintains a 4,000 bottle cellar in Cleveland, Ohio. While attending graduate school at Cleveland State University and majoring in Zoology, Fran took a position selling Fetzer & Gallo wines for a local distributor, knowing he could use the extra money and work in the wine business only part-time. Little did he know that the wine business would soon become all-consuming and, consequently, he left graduate school altogether.

Being in the wine business for 43 years, Fran has worked as a wholesale representative, wine steward, national sales director and, since founding his business in 1994, a wine importer. In 1989, Fran received his Master Sommelier award from the British Court of Master Sommeliers, while in 1992 he passed the tasting half of the Master of Wine exam and hopes to complete the remainder of the MW exam in the future.

This red wine is named Montebuena, which means "good mountain", and comes from one of the best winegrowing areas in Labastida. It is situated in an area located in the eastern part of the village which covers more than 160 hectares in northern Spain. The viticultural records of Labastida go back several centuries, with the best evidence of its winemaking history being the "lagares rupestres", or rock presses. The lagares rupestres are human-origin formations that were carved into large rocks in the vineyards, consisting of three holes where the grapes were pressed to obtain the juice prior to fermentation, and were in use between the 9th & 18th centuries.

Montebuena sets itself apart with its unique position where the river Ebro is closest to the Sierra Cantabria mountains, creating a blend of Mediterranean and Continental climates that prevents an excess of rain and extreme cold. Moreover, the shallow and calcareous soils limit yields and the size of grapes, while increasing the volume of the skin, resulting in deeper colour and greater concentration of flavours. To craft this wine, which is 100% Tempranillo from 20-25 year-old vines in Rioja Alavesa within Rioja DOC, they use precise viticultural techniques and advanced technologies to track the vegetative cycle by using a system of weather stations to monitor the vineyards' health and prevent destructive diseases. The grapes were hand-harvested and aged for 3-4 months in new French oak. From a very good vintage, let's see how this 2020 Rioja is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

MONTEBUENA CUVÉE KPF 2020 - DOCa Rioja, Spain (#211029) (XD) - $17.95
Enclosed by screw cap, this 100% Tempranillo has a medium to medium-high intensity that nose delivers appealing ripe red and black cherry, sweet spices, sandalwood, and dried herbs aromas layered over stony-earthy minerals and flecks of dried cherry and florals. It's dry, spicy, and ripe on the medium+ palate with delicious red cherry, black cherry, red plum, vanilla, and cocoa flavours. It has fresh, juicy acidity, while the supple tannins have a pleasing, slightly chalky textured grip. Cocoa notes linger through to the long, savoury, and earthy finish. Give it a light chill and enjoy this recommended buy! Score: 88+ pts

Other delicious wines by Kysela and Montebuena can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits or Connexion Oenophilia.

Read More

Tedeschi Capitel Nicalò Valpolicella Superiore 2020 (Veneto) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of a lovely Valpolicella Superiore that arrived at the LCBO last month as part of the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on June 24th.

It is produced by Azienda Agricola Tedeschi, also known as Tedeschi Wines, a prominent family-owned winery situated in the Valpolicella region, within Veneto in northeastern Italy. Founded in 1630, Tedeschi has a long and rich history in winemaking spanning over four centuries. Considered one of the leading wineries in Valpolicella, Tedeschi is also a pioneer in crafting cru wines from the region. Tedeschi Winery has been passed down through the generations within the family while having a strong commitment to quality winemaking and respect for traditional winemaking methods.

Today, Tedeschi is a renowned and respected producer of Amarone and other wines from Valpolicella. The winemaking philosophy at Tedeschi is based on patience - to wait for the amount of time required both in the vineyard and in the winery - and dedication - to carefully attend to details and have the appropriate attitude towards the raw materials, while striving to combine long-held family traditions with innovative research, experimentation, and production methods. Their profound attention to detail in the vineyard includes research to uncover the perfect interaction between the characteristics of the soil, micro-climate, sun exposure, selecting the most appropriate varietals, and the cultivation system. The resulting wines are elegant and endowed with marked personality, revealing the richness, tastes and aromas that are typical of the earth that have always characterized their production and identity. Tedeschi has always respected the environment and is certified sustainable according to the standards of Biodiversity Friend and Equalitas.

Like the 2019 Tedeschi Capitel Nicalò Valpolicella Superiore that I enjoyed a couple of years ago, this vintage continues to be a blend of 35% Corvina, 35% Corvinone, 20% Rondinella, and 10% Rossignola / Oseleta / Negrara / Dindarella. The grapes were grown in the Moraine Hills, where the soils are moraine clay and limestone of moraine origin, in the heart of Valpolicella and vinified in the Veronese tradition of drying the grapes. By placing the grapes in crates for about one month, the grapes undergo partial dehydration, losing about 8-10% of their weight. This natural process results in water loss while enriching the sugar content of the grapes, their dry extract, and the colour of
the wine.

After harvesting the grapes, they were dried for one month and then underwent maceration and both alcoholic and malolactic fermentation. The wine was aged in Slavonian oak barrels for 12 to 18 months, and underwent further ageing for 6 months in bottle. The wine is named after their ancestor, Niccolò, and is crafted to be pleasing for all gastronomic delights. From a good vintage that is better than the 2019 vintage, let's see how this 2020 Valpolicella Superiore is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TEDESCHI CAPITEL NICALÒ VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE 2020 - Sustainable, DOC, Veneto, Italy (#984997) (XD) - $19.95
Blend of 35% Corvina, 35% Corvinone, 20% Rondinella, and 10% Rossignola / Oseleta / Negrara / Dindarella. The clean, fresh, and fragrant nose offers an attractive mix of savoury earth, leafy herbs, black and dark red cherry, and fine spice aromas, plus some dried fruit, and red plum nuances adding further complexity. It's medium-full bodied on the dry palate with fresh, juicy, and tangy lemony acidity lifting the dark cherry fruited, savoury earth, fine spices, cedary oak, and mocha flavours. Supple, dusty textured tannins are smooth and refined. Tangy and dry with dark berry, earth, and wood spice notes lingering on the long, juicy, and well-balanced finish. Enjoyable now and over the next 4-5 years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

With a fairly large portfolio, some wines by Tedeschi are available at the LCBO, while the entire range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Château Clou du Pin Premium 2020 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Merlot from Bordeaux which arrived at the LCBO last weekend in the May 27 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and is widely available across Ontario right now.

It is produced by Domaines Fontana, a family winery that was founded by Huguette and Angelo Fontana in 1950. They were in their mid-twenties at the time and had a dream to plant vines and build a winery, eventually settling in the small town of Gensac in Gironde, about 15 km southeast of Saint-Émilion. They chose Gensac because of the richness of the land that determined the location of their vineyard, high on the hillsides of Gironde.

As the years and vintages went by, not only did the vines grow, but the family also grew as Huguette and Angelo had five children who grew up and inherited their parent's passion for the vine. The boys of the second generation of the Fontana family enlarged the family business by acquiring plots of neighbouring vines and each invested in various trades that are currently present at the Estate. The family heritage has grown further today with the grandchildren of Huguette and Angelo joining Domaines Fontana, bringing with them modernity, a fresh outlook, dynamism, youth, and a common desire to share their passion for vines and wine.

Today, Domaines Fontana has over 300 hectares of land mainly within the commune of Gensac, but also extending over neighbouring and bordering communes. Since 2019, they vines and winery have been HVE (High Environmental Value) certified, a certification that allows recognition of good environmental and health practices in the vineyard. The work of the vineyard and the cellar are adapted to the times, always respecting know-how while adopting new and innovative techniques with the sole aim of producing quality wines. Red wine makes up nearly all (96%) of their production and is made to Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOC. The wines are bottled using their own bottling facilities on-premise, and most of the wine is sold in France, with only 30% exported outside the country.

This red wine is the result of a unique and careful selection of the Chai des Domaines Fontana. It bears the Premium label because it is crafted from their best, single vat of Merlot which is chosen for its complexity, rarity, and concentration - the qualities sought for this exceptional cuvée. It is crafted with 100% Merlot from a vineyard planted on clay-limestone soils on hillsides up to 120 metres above sea level, with south-southwest exposure. From pruning to vinification, they practice traditional and reasoned cultivation with soil that is enriched with only organic manure. The grapes were harvested from low-yield plots which result in grapes that produce a structured and concentrated wine. Upon arrival a the winery, the grapes are destemmed and macerated for 30 days, followed by fermentation in stainless steel tanks. It was aged in their cellar which is equipped with a thermoregulation system with micro oxygenation. From an excellent vintage, let's see how this 2020 Merlot from Bordeaux is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU CLOU DU PIN PREMIUM 2020 - AC Bordeaux Supérieur, France (#28727) (XD) - $18.95
100% Merlot. The rich, ripe, medium-high intensity nose offers dark fruited aromas of blackberry, black cherry, and plum balanced with savoury, musky woodspice, and cocoa notes, plus a touch of floral. It's full-bodied on the rich palate with chewy, well-structured, and fine-grained tannins, along with juicy, well-balanced acidity. Delicious grilled herbs join the blackberry, black cherry, plum, and cocoa replays in a dry flavour profile. Savoury cocoa notes linger on the long, dry, and well-structured finish. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Domaines Fontana can be purchased through their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Domaine Boussard Chablis 2020 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is this beautiful Chardonnay from Chablis that is brand new to the LCBO, arriving in stores across Ontario as part of last weekend's May 27 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Domaine Boussard, an independent winegrower and family estate that planted their first vineyards in AOP Bourgogne in 1992. The Domaine was founded in the heart of Burgundy by Olivier Boussard, a man who comes from a family that has been farming for 5 generations, and his wife Isabelle. Domaine Boussard is located in Nitry, about 17 km southeast of Chablis, between Auxerre and Avallon, in a rustic setting in which the cellar is installed in an old farmhouse. Olivier makes his own wines with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir at the estate using traditional methods.

Olivier's knowledge and passion for the terroir and profession as a winegrower enabled him to grow and expand his range of wines. Today, the husband and wife team, along with their daughter Margot, have 32 hectares of vineyards located in the municipalities of Beines and Venoy, on the edge of Chablis. Their philosophy can be summed up as: Quality, respect for the environment, and hospitality. They aim to find the right balance between plant and terroir, and as such, their vineyards are farmed under the principles of sustainable viticulture as they have obtained the "HVE3" Environmental Value Certification. Their approach consists of enhancing the soil and vine in its natural environment by using plant and mineral materials that take into account natural resources, protect the territory, reduce pollution, and contribute to the balance of the land.

Continuing the fine run of vintages in Chablis, the 2020 vintage can be described as a "classic" across the famed region. Although 2020 was a very early vintage, it was not a particularly hot one and avoided dramatic heat spikes. The growing season began with an unusually mild winter that transitioned into a balmy spring. There were some bouts of frost that stuck, but the consistent warm weather prevailed and led to an unnaturally warm April which prompted both an early budburst and flowering. A hot, dry summer eventually arrived, and although the conditions became somewhat arid, the cleansing winds breezed through the vineyards to help keep the vines free from disease. The fast-growing season led to an early harvest with white grapes being both aromatic and fresh. Let's see how this 2020 Chablis from Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE BOUSSARD CHABLIS 2020 - AP, Burgundy, France (#29709) (XD) - $39.95
100% Chardonnay. Fresh and fragrant, this has a lovely, highly aromatic, clean, and elegant nose of lemon citrus, white floral, and oyster shell minerality with touches of ripe orchard fruit, apple, herbs, and white peach adding complexity. On the medium to medium-full bodied palate it has clean, bracing acidity which lifts the ripe, lightly honeyed flavours of lemon citrus, white floral, mineral, and apple replays. It is finely textured with a gently chalky mouthfeel, while leesy notes join the lemon citrus, apple, floral, and mineral notes on the long, flavourful finish, with excellent length. Perfect for a hot, summer day, and will also pair nicely with seafood, this is a highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Other lovely wines by Domaine Boussard can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

Read More

Château Guillou 2020 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent wine from the Right Bank of Bordeaux that is arriving at the LCBO this weekend (and likely in stores already) as part of the May 27th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Famille Saby, a winegrowing family of oenologists for nine generations with knowledge passed down from father to son since the 18th century. Today, the family business is led by Jean-Bernard Saby, the 8th generation of the family, and his two sons who are the 9th generation - Jean-Christophe and Jean-Philippe. The Saby family are considered specialists of wines from the Right Bank of Bordeaux and own and operate several estates in this historic wine region. One of these estates is Château Guillou and its vineyard which has existed in its current form since 1870. At Château Guillou there are 62 hectares of vines, most of which are planted on a plateau with clay-limestone soils, and hillsides with clayey-silty soils.

I've had the pleasure of enjoying this wine quite a few times over the years, including most recently the 2018 Château Guillou late last year. Like previous vintages, this red wine from Bordeaux is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. The grapes were grown on the siliceous, sandy, and gravelly soils at Château Guillou in the Montagne-Saint-Emilion appellation. The Château is located in the Libourne sub-region on the right bank of the Dordogne where the wines are usually Merlot-based. The grapes were traditionally hand-picked and sorted on tables. It underwent a cold soak pre-fermentation and foulage, a temperature-controlled fermentation, and malolactic fermentation. The wine was aged in second- and third-use French and American oak barrels.

Despite the challenges during the growing season due to the pandemic, the 2020 vintage is rated as an excellent and legendary vintage. The growing season began well with a frequently wet spring that put the vineyards in a good state leading up to the hot, dry summer. Autumn was blessed with golden sunshine and warm days, along with chilly nights in September which brought the grapes to phenolic ripeness. Although there were some periods of rain, it was the periods of drought that helped concentrate the grapes to deliver rich and intense wines. Overall, yields were slightly smaller than average, but the fruit is, for the most part, healthy and of high quality. Let's see how this 2020 Bordeaux is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU GUILLOU 2020 - AC Montagne-Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux, France (#140483) (XD) - $24.95
This blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc has a gorgeous, intense, and complex bouquet of crushed dark fruit, currant, blackberry, black cherry, and plum mingling with oak spice, dried herb, and savoury wet earth aromas rising out of the glass, plus hints of floral with time. On the ripe, full-bodied palate it has plummy, dark red cherry, blackberry, and currant flavours balanced with savoury earth, dried herbs, and gentle oak spice notes. It's supported by fresh, juicy acidity and well-structured, medium-firm tannins. Quite balanced throughout with some mineral notes appearing on the long, structured finish, with excellent length. Provides pleasure now, but will improve further with a few years in the cellar. Enjoy to the end of the decade and a highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Other lovely wines by Famille Saby can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

Read More

Austin Hope Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (Paso Robles) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles in California that I picked up a couple of weeks ago at the LCBO on Queens Quay (Toronto) and had signed on the spot at the bottle signing by its creator - Austin Hope. It was an honour to have this bottle signed, shake his hand, and exchange pleasantries before heading on to my next engagement. This California Cab arrived at the LCBO late last year as part of the feature on "Gifts to Celebrate" in the November 5 LCBO VINTAGES Release and is still available to buy now.

Austin Hope is the Winemaker & President of Hope Family Wines, Wine Enthusiast's American Winery of the Year in 2022. Austin is the son of Chuck Hope and was eight years old when he moved from Bakersfield to Paso Robles in 1978 with his parents. Chuck and his wife, Marilyn, sought a change of scenery and career and purchased the property in Paso Robles where Austin still lives today. They started out farming grapes and apples and soon discovered that Paso Robles was ideal for winegrowing and focused their efforts on growing high quality grapes.

Austin credits three people for his growth and encouragement on his path in wine: his father Chuck Hope, his uncle Paul, and the famed Napa Valley winemaker Chuck Wagner. In the 1980s, the Hope family began selling their grapes to Chuck Wagner for a new brand of wines Mr. Wagner was producing - a brand that was later acquired by the Hope family. Austin was a bit of a troublemaker as a kid and his punishment was to go work in the fields. However, he actually enjoyed this chore and preferred working on the ranch instead of being in school, eventually finding himself working in the vineyard alongside his father during the 80's and 90's as the Hope family expanded their winegrowing activities.

While studying fruit science at Cal Poly in San Luis Obispo, Chuck Wagner took him under his wing and it was during this period that Austin developed a passion for making wine. Uncle Paul Hope's desire for the family was to move from simply growing grapes to producing their own wine. In 1996, when the Hope family acquired Chuck Wagner's Liberty School label, Paul was slated to lead the project. However, his untimely death shortly after the acquisition put Austin, who was only 26 at the time, in charge of the project and propel the family's addition of winemaking to their operations.

Today, Hope Family Wines has six labels of wines, each with their own unique focus and personality. The Austin Hope Cabernet Sauvignon is the top bottle in the Hope Family Wines portfolio. It is crafted with 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles and aims to express all that Paso has to offer with its
pastoral beauty, perfect soils, maritime climate, and limitless possibility. Paso Robles is one of California's most pastoral domains and its name roughly translates to "Passageway of Oaks", which comes from the majestic trees that mark the landscape. Amongst the rolling hills and native habitat lie manicured vineyards, where the ideal soil exists for farming Cabernet. The typical weather in Paso Robles are dry and warm, yet the evenings are chilled by a breeze from the Pacific Ocean just 18 miles to the west, allowing the fruit to ripen into luxurious richness.

This Cabernet was grown in several vineyards in Paso with each vineyard lot harvested and fermented individually in stainless steel tanks. Extended macerations and carefully managed pump overs enhanced the extraction of colour and tannin. Each lot was aged in mostly used French oak for 11 months, with the exact combination being 10% new, 25% second use, and 65% in third or fourth use. After tasting and analyzing each lot, the best lots were selected and blended together in late summer 2021, then aged a further 2 months in 75% new and 25% second use French oak.had

From a banner year in Paso Robles that produced grapes of excellent quality, let's see how this 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon from California is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

AUSTIN HOPE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 - Paso Robles, California, USA (#578005) (D) - $74.95
100% Cabernet Sauvignon. The fragrant, highly aromatic nose is sweet vanillin oak spice and ripe, jammy black fruit driven with notes of black plum, blackberry, fine oak spice, cassis, and red licorice. On the full-bodied, richly structured palate it has sweet oak vanillin, fresh & ripe black fruit, blackberry, mocha, and black plum flavours supported by fresh, well-balanced acidity. The ripe, smooth, and refined tannins have a pleasingly mild grip on the back palate that will reward with a few years of ageing. Vanilla with roasted coffee, smoky oak, and tangy dark berry notes linger on the long, juicy finish, with excellent length. Well-balanced throughout. For the style, this is really nicely made and a highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Other lovely wines by Hope Family Wines are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.

Read More

Cono Sur Cabernet Sauvignon Carmenère Syrah Organic 2020 (Chile) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious organic wine that is a blend of three varieties from Chile that is readily available at LCBO outlets across Ontario.

It is produced by Cono Sur Vineyards & Winery, one of the leading wine producers in Chile. Cono Sur Vineyards & Winery was founded in 1993 with the vision of producing premium, expressive, and innovative wines that convey the spirit of the New World. Quality, innovation, and sustainability are the three core values of Cono Sur. They are orientated towards growing quality grapes in order to produce quality wines, innovating with the creative use of technology, and respect for the environment and people. The company's name "Cono Sur" is translated to "Southern cone" and refers to company's geographic position - wines proudly made in South America's southern cone, on whose western edge lies Chile and its gifted wine valleys.

Cono Sur Vineyards & Winery is committed to meeting the needs of the present without compromising the future, while also taking care of the environment without neglecting the aspects of social development and economic growth. In 1998, they switched from conventional agriculture to an integrated vineyard management system that favours natural alternatives to fertilize the soil and to prevent and control pests and disease. Their commitments have led to 17 years of organic certification, 13 years of Carbon Neutral Delivery, and 12 years of Wine Biodiversity and Climate Change. In 2007, Cono Sur became the first winery in the world to receive the CarbonNeutral delivery status, and in 2011 they were awarded Green Company of the Year by British magazine Drinks Business. Today, Cono Sur has over 300 hectares under organic management and they have vineyards in 7 of Chile's wine valleys.

This organic red wine is made with 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Carmenère, and 28% Syrah, with grapes grown in vineyards across Chile in the valleys of Maipo, Maule, Colchagua, and Limarí. Thus, this red wine bears the country of the appellation of Chile. There grapes were grown in a Mediterranean climate on various soil types, but mostly consisted of alluvial and gravelly, pumacita, red clay, and mineral soils. After a combination of hand-picking and mechanically harvesting the grapes, the wine was vinified at their estate in Chimbarongo, about 160 km south of Santiago. It was aged for 12 months, with half aged in French oak barrels and the other half in stainless steel tanks. From an extremely early and hot growing season, and a challenging harvest, let's see how this 2020 Chilean organic red wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CONO SUR CABERNET SAUVIGNON CARMENÈRE SYRAH ORGANIC 2020 - Chile (#553792) (XD) - $16.55
Enclosed by screw cap, this blend of 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Carmenère, and 28% Syrah has a medium to medium-high intensity nose that is rich and ripe with red and black cherry, currant, cassis, peppery spice, vanilla, and cedary oak spice aromas. It's medium+ bodied on the dry palate with delicious currant, cassis, dried herbs, herbaceous, peppery spice, and gentle cedary oak flavours supported by fresh acidity and supple, fine-grained tannins. Cedary oak spice and dried herbal notes linger on the finish, with very good length. Recommended buy! Score: 88 pts

Read More

Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Les Caillottes Sancerre 2020 (Loire) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is this beautiful Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre that arrived at the LCBO this weekend as part of the April 15 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Jean-Max Roger, one of my favourite Loire Valley wine producers. The Roger family comes from a long-line of winegrowers in the village of Bué, which is located just west and a little south of the town of Sancerre. The first mention of the Roger family name dates back to the 17th century and up until the 1960s, the Roger family practiced mixed farming with animal rearing. In the 1970s, Jean-Max Roger took over the 4 hectares of vines from his parents and together with his wife, Nicole, they focused on developing the vineyards and the estate.

Today, Jean-Max Roger is one of the most highly regarded wine producers in Sancerre and the Loire Valley. Their passion and love for wine and terroir was naturally passed on to their sons, Thibault and Etienne, and in 2004 both joined the family estate. The brothers complement each other, perpetuating their family's know-how and techniques to improve their wines with each passing vintage. The estate covers 28 hectares of vines in the Sancerre appellation, and 6 hectares in Menetou-Salon, with more than 40 plots that offer exceptional diversity of exposure, slope, and soil profiles. This diversity, combined with the Roger family's winemaking expertise, allows each wine to express all of the uniqueness of their terroirs through their structure, elegance, and finesse.

I've had the pleasure of tasting previous vintages of this lovely white wine from Sancerre, including most recently the 2019 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Les Caillottes Sancerre last September. It is crafted with 100% Sauvignon Blanc that was grown in the famous vineyards of Saint Martin, L'Epée, and others, within the villages of Bué, Amigny, and Sancerre. Most importantly, this is a terroir-focused wine where all of the grapes were grown on limestone soils called "caillottes", and hence, where the wine gets its name from. The grapes have southern and south-western exposure to the sun. The vines are between 6-40 years of age and were managed according to organic principles to produce grapes that reveal its terroir. After harvesting, the grapes are brought to the winery and immediately pneumatically pressed and cold settled for between 48 and 72 hours. It undergoes a long, temperature-controlled fermentation using natural yeasts, followed by ageing on heavy lees. After fining and filtering, the wine is bottled at the estate using their own facilities.

The 2020 growing season was the warmest ever recorded in the Loire Valley. However, periods of intense rain helped fully replenish the soils. March and April were alternately warm and cool, while late April and May were warm; July began cool, but turned very warm, while August was hot. There were some welcomed rains at the end of August, leading to fine September weather. Overall, 2020 is an excellent vintage with wines having concentration, freshness, and poise. Let's see how this 2020 Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE LES CAILLOTTES SANCERRE 2020 - AC, Loire, France (#65573) (XD) - $35.95
100% Sauvignon Blanc. Fresh, fragrant, open, and highly aromatic on the nose with lovely lemon citrus, quince, pear, and spring flower aromas with a fine, flinty mineral underpinning. It is medium to medium-full bodied on the well-structured, dry, and ripe palate with deliciously elegant lemon citrus, stone fruit, apple, quince, and pear replays, plus spicy notes, herbs, and flinty mineral flavours. It is impeccably well-balanced throughout with crisp, juicy acidity, while minerally, herbal, and stone fruit characters linger on the finish, with excellent length. Wow. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other lovely wines by Jean-Max Roger can be purchased at the LCBO or through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

Read More

French Door Estate Winery Héritage 2020 (British Columbia) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a sneak preview of a lovely red wine from B.C. that is expected to be released by the winery this Spring!

It is produced by French Door Estate Winery, a small, boutique, family-owned and -operated winery and vineyard that was founded in 2019 by Audra and Jason Shull. They are located on the beautiful Black Sage Bench at 365 metres above sea level on a plateau edge overlooking the valley, south of the town of Oliver, in the southern Okanagan Valley.

With a passion for quality wine, the 10-acre property is planted with 100% vinifera vines, both red and white, on beautiful, expressive soils that have resulted in rich, lush, and character driven wines. The soils on the property are sandy and rocky, with a gravel and clay base that are very well drained, with a granitic sub-soil. Their goal is to produce honest, low-intervention wines, from sustainably grown grapes, in a classic old-world French style.

The name "French Door Estate Winery" came to mind because the family was inspired by the simplicity and quality of French architecture, cuisine, and wine during their travels to Provence. As they believe that the Okanagan valley has a similar uniqueness about it, the Shull family wanted to bring these parallels to life through the way their wine is made and discussed.

Their consultant winemaker is Pascal Madevon, a man who integrates his French heritage into all of his wine creations. All of the wines are produced in the Barrel Room where there are three Tonneau French oak vats and French oak barrels. The French theme continues with a white and bright with black accents colour scheme throughout the winery, resembling the look and feel of a French farmhouse. The symbol of the "French door" is representative of their aspiration to incorporate the traditional aesthetics and values of beautiful Provence into their own backyard, with a modern twist.

This red wine from the Okanagan Valley is a blend of 41% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Franc, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Syrah, 6% Malbec, and 5% Petit Verdot. The grapes were grown at their estate vineyard which experiences long days of sunshine, while the Oliver wind in the afternoon cools the grapes until the sun goes behind Mount Kobau. Each vineyard block and variety is cultivated with precise care depending on the vines' needs. To vinify this wine, all of the grapes were hand-harvested and sorted before being de-stemmed and gently crushed into tanks. Each variety was fermented separately and was followed by an extended maceration to extract colour and tannins. Free run wine was drained directly into barrels, while the rest was pressed off the following day, and then aged for 14 months in 60% neutral and 40% new French oak barrels before being bottled.

The 2020 growing season in the Okanagan started wet and cool, which meant a smaller fruit set than usual. The result was a smaller grape harvest, which in turn meant less wine. However, the grape quality of what was picked was excellent due to perfect ripening conditions, and the quality of the wines will be among the best of the decade. According to French Door, their 2020 Héritage could be their most refined yet. Let's see how this 2020 Okanagan Valley red wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

FRENCH DOOR ESTATE WINERY HÉRITAGE 2020 - BC VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada (XD) - $52
Blend of 41% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Franc, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Syrah, 6% Malbec, and 5% Petit Verdot. The medium+ intensity nose seems a bit shy, offering elegant dark fruited aromas of black currant, cassis, and blackberry nuanced with savoury freshly tilled earth, olive, dried herbs, and oak spice adding complexity. On the elegant, refined, medium-full bodied, and dry palate it has lovely dark currant, blackberry, black cherry, olive, and earthy flavours. It has fresh acidity and elegantly refined, well-structured tannins, with savoury cocoa and herbal notes lingering on the long, juicy finish. Really elegant and refined throughout. Once released, this is a highly recommended buy! Score: 92+ pts

While this 2020 vintage isn't available for purchase as of yet at the time of this post, the 2019 vintage of this terrific wine is available direct from the winery.

Read More

Wakefield Jaraman Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (Australia) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is this lovely, consistently well-made Cabernet Sauvignon from Australia that is featured on the back cover of the March 4th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection. It arrived at the LCBO last weekend and is widely available across Ontario.

Wakefield Wines are produced by the Taylor family who established their own estate in Australia's Clare Valley in 1969 after making wines for others many years prior. The estate winery was created by Bill Taylor Sr. and his two sons when they planted their first vineyards and began a journey to become one of the Australia's most renowned wine producers.

Today, Wakefield Wines is led by the third generation of the family - brothers Mitchell, Justin, and Clinton. Together, they are focused on continuing the family tradition of producing delicious wines that stand the test of time. They are also focused on producing wines sustainably and responsibly, while respecting the fruit and where it comes from. This particular wine is from their Jaraman range where they specifically search for parcels of extraordinary to fruit from Australia's iconic wine regions to craft wines that showcase the fruits' distinctive regional characteristics and style. The winemakers ensure that the distinct regional characteristics of each variety is preserved and enhanced, ensuring that the fruit is the star and any winemaking influence is the supporting act.

Like the 2018 Wakefield Jaraman Cabernet Sauvignon that I last enjoyed nearly a year ago, this particular vintage is also crafted with 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from nearly equal parts Clare Valley (52%) and Coonawarra (48%) fruit. It was matured for 10-12 months in French oak barrels in a combination of 50% 1-year-old barrels and the other half in 2- and 3-year-old barrels, prior to being bottled.

The growing season in 2020 in the Clare Valley began with challenging weather events that included spring frosts at budburst and then hot and windy conditions during flowering. The start of summer brought wild weather, from searing heat and bush fires to heavy rain and chilly, gusty winds. Weather conditions returned to relatively normal in February and March, and harvest was smooth and steady. Although it was a tough year for growers in Clare Valley, the quality of the fruit was high. In Coonawarra, the season began well with good rainfall from the end of Autumn to the beginning of Spring. The region was also fortunate not to have been affected by the bush fires that occurred throughout the summer. Although yields were down, the warm days and cool nights provided the perfect ripening conditions for Cabernet Sauvignon and the wines from this vintage look excellent. Let's see how this 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon from Australia is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

WAKEFIELD JARAMAN CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 - Clare Valley & Coonawarra, South Australia (#142398) (XD) - $24.95
Screw cap. With 52% Clare Valley and 48% Coonawarra fruit, this Cabernet Sauvignon has fresh, lifted, medium-high intensity aromas of mint and leafy herbals followed by mocha chocolate, oak spice, dark currant, and cassis. It's full-bodied, smooth, and well-structured with delicious minty-eucalypt, leafy herb, dark currant, mocha chocolate, and cassis replays on the flavour profile. It has fresh, balanced acidity and smooth, refined, and slightly youthful tannins. Juicy currants, chocolate, herbal, and earthy flavours linger on the long finish. Recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other delicious wines by Wakefield Wines are available at the LCBO and via their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

Read More

Creekside Red Tractor Cabernet/Merlot 2020 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a delicious Cabernet-Merlot from Niagara that returned to the LCBO over the weekend as part of the March 4 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Red Tractor Wines are produced by Creekside Estate Winery. This new world wine brand was established by Creekside in 2011 to celebrate the past, present, and future of farming in Ontario. The red tractor symbol comes from an old Massey Harris tractor that Creekside owns and serves as a symbol of the hard work required to farm the vineyards. Red Tractor Wines honours this hard work and salutes their family of growers.

The grapes used to craft Red Tractor Wines are sourced from family farms across the Niagara Peninsula - because place matters. The wines pay homage to the vineyards and growers such as the Serluca and Smith Families, as they work alongside these second-generation farmers as they push the boundaries on innovation and lead with sustainable farming practices.

And thinking ahead to International Women's Day, which is held annually on March 8th, Yvonne Irvine leads the winemaking for Red Tractor Wines. She has over 12-years of viticultural and winemaking experience, and works closely with the family of growers while embracing the honest, hard-work required to grow and harvest quality fruit. Each vintage is a labour of love as she celebrates the growers by crafting their fruit into strong, powerful wines.

I was first introduced to Red Tractor Wines in 2019 when they launched their first Cabernet/Merlot and Cabernet Franc wines. The range now also includes a Shiraz Cabernet and a Chardonnay. While the 2017 vintage of this red wine blend was Merlot-based, this particular vintage is composed of equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon (47%) and Merlot (46%), plus 7% Cabernet Franc to complete the blend. This blend celebrates the vineyards of the Niagara Peninsula and the growers that have shaped the landscape. The grapes were harvested from three vineyards in Niagara-on-the-Lake. It was vinified and aged in separate small lots, and then blended after 16 months in barrel.

From the near-perfect 2020 growing season that provided structure, ripeness, and longevity to age, let's see how this 2020 Bordeaux-blend from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CREEKSIDE RED TRACTOR CABERNET/MERLOT 2020 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#11851) (D) - $17.95
A blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Merlot, and 7% Cabernet Franc, this has an attractive, medium-high intensity nose that offers ripe black currant, cassis, black cherry, chocolate, and oak spice aromas with some earthy undertones and a touch of olive. On the medium-full bodied palate it has ripe, dark currant, cassis, black cherry, plum, and earthy oak spice flavours supported by fresh acidity. Structured tannins are gritty textured and quite drying, while savoury earth, cedary, and cocoa notes linger on the finish, with very good length. Enjoy this recommended buy with big red meats. Score: 88+ pts

Other delicious Red Tractor Wines are available direct from Creekside Estate Winery in Niagara.

Read More

Selbach Tradition Feinherb Riesling Kabinett 2020 (Mosel) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely Riesling Kabinett from Mosel that arrived at the LCBO last month as part of the February 4th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by J & H Selbach, a separate family business from their estate wine producing company - Weingut Selbach-Oster. The company Selbach-Oster was established as an independent business in 1964 to separate the family's estate vineyards from the rest of the business which included making wine from their own grapes and purchased grapes from small growers along the Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer, in the negociant tradition.

The historic Selbach family has a winemaking and shipping tradition that dates all the way back to the 1600s, while the Oster family were winegrowers and coopers going back to the 1700s. Johannes Selbach, who is from the Osters grand-maternal line of the family, is the current owner of Selbach-Oster. He was raised in the municipality of Zeltingen, where the estate is located today within the Mosel wine region, and grew up around the family's vineyards his whole life and made his first wine at at a young age in 1975.

Today, both of Johannes children, Sebastian and Hannah, are involved in the family's small winemaking business. Sebastian has especially developed a passion for wine by working the vineyards and after completing his studies in oenology and viticulture, as well as internships in Germany and abroad, he joined the family estate in 2019. There are no official titles at Selbach-Oster as each day is a joint effort among family members and their employees.

Selbach-Oster owns and farms 24 hectares of vineyards, most of which is old, some up to 100 years old, ungrafted Riesling vines, located on the "golden mile" of Mosel which features the steep, slate slopes from Zeltingen to Wehlen to Graach, and to Bernkastel. The vines are grown in harmony with nature with lots of time-consuming, manual labour, and with meticulous care. The grapes are hand-picked, and often with multiple passes, while fermentation takes place in their cold cellars with mostly wild, indigenous yeast.

From a very good 2020 vintage that is delivering balance and elegance, let's see how this 2020 Riesling Kabinett from Mosel is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

SELBACH TRADITION FEINHERB RIESLING KABINETT 2020 - Prädikatswein, Mosel, Germany (#21031) (M) - $24.95
The nose seems rather quiet with glimpses of citrus, orange, white peach, and honeyed aromas. On the rich, concentrated, and medium-full bodied palate it has deliciously off-dry and gently spicy flavours of citrus, white peach, ripe apple, and honey with touches of slatey and leesy minerals. It's nicely textured on the mid-palate with crisp, vibrant, and refreshing acidity that balances the sweetness, while leesy mineral notes linger on the sticky, juicy, long, and dry-ish finish. Recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

You may find some wines by Weingut Selbach at the LCBO, but your best bet is to reach out to their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Casal di Serra Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore 2020 (Marche) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is an organic and consistently delicious white wine from Marche. It arrived at the LCBO over the weekend as part of the recent February 4th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Umani Ronchi, a family-run winery that was established in 1957 when Gino Umani Ronchi set up a small farm at Cupramontana, the heart of Verdicchio Classico country in Marche. In 1968, Roberto Bianchi and his son-in-law Massimo Bernetti acquired the property and brought new energy to the estate's production and improved the quality of the wines. Massimo soon expanded the estate's area under vine to 210 hectares, most of which was nestled between the hills and sea, along the Adriatic coast on the eastern side of central Italy in Marche and Abruzzo. Massimo was joined by his son, Michele, in the 1990s and together with input from university research centres, they began exploring advanced vine cultivation and winemaking techniques, while also identifying the best grape-growing sites.

Today, Michele and his technical team continue to fine-tune all of their wines, resulting in a range of new products, while paying great attention to existing wines. He has partnered with Giacomo Tachis, a skilled winemaker known for celebrated wines like the Solaia and Sassicaia. Umani Ronchi continues its innovative spirit with all of the vineyards are farmed organically, by technical choice, because organic means quality. Umani Ronchi is driven by strong ethics and respects the environment, with sustainability at top of mind in every aspect of the business.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Verdicchio that was grown on the hills of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. The vineyards are between 8 to 30 years old and situated between 200 and 350 metres above sea level, on opposite sides of the Esino Valley, while the soils go back to pleiocene-pleistocene formations and characterized by being very deep, medium-calcareous clay loams. The grapes were hand-harvested with particular attention paid to determine the right moment to harvest, when there was the best balance between sugar content, phenolic ripening, and acidity. It was vinified by lightly pressing the grapes and undergoing fermentation in temperature-controlled steel tanks. After ageing the wine on its own lees for about 5 months, it was then aged in bottle for a few months prior to release.

Looking through my notes, I had actually tasted this particular vintage a couple of times in the second half of last year, and both times it was delicious, with consistent notes. The 2019 Casal di Serra Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore which I tasted a couple of years ago was also lovely! Let's see how this 2020 Verdicchio from Marche is tasting in early 2023...

Tasting Note:

CASAL DI SERRA VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO SUPERIORE 2020 - DOCG, Marche, Italy (#268169) (XD) - $19.95
Switched from screw cap to Nomacorc for this vintage. The medium-high intensity nose is faintly perfumed with attractive ripe lemon-lime citrus, melon, and peach aromas with whiffs of florality. There good weight and concentration on the dry, crunchy, medium-full bodied palate with deliciously ripe lemon-lime, apple, melon, white floral, and leesy flavours in a lightly honeyed profile. Acids are juicy, vibrant, and well-balanced. Nicely textured on the mid-palate, while leesy mineral notes linger on the long, succulent finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Umani Ronchi are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

Read More

Dam Chardonnay 2020 (Niagara) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely Chardonnay from Niagara that was quietly released last fall without much of the usual fanfare, and I had the pleasure of tasting last night in a virtual tasting with one of the partners at 80x Wine Company, André Proulx.

It is produced by 80x Wine Company, a virtual winery that started as an idea in 2015 when Vadim Chelekhov and André had a conversation at a wine gala in Niagara and asked each other "Wouldn't it be great if we made some wine together?"

André is a wine writer based in Ontario and not only believes you are what you drink, but also that it is important to understand what it takes to go from vineyard to bottle. Vadim wanted an outlet to explore some more experimental winemaking, while Guillaume Frénéhard studied the wine business in France and assured André and Vadim that he could help them sell their wine. Since all of the partners in this project were born in the 80s, they named the business 80x Wine Company.

In 2019, Adam Kern joined the team as dedicated winemaker, bringing with him years of experience being trained as a somm and working at some of Ontario's best wineries. As a virtual winery, 80x Wine Company purchases grapes from selected vineyards across the Niagara Peninsula and vinify their wines at Rockway Vineyards in St. Catharines, Ontario. Together, they believe that great wine is the result of passion, insanity, and friendship.

This Chardonnay gets its name after a contentious discussion within the company on what wine they were going to make next - their first wine was a Gamay, which I recall tasting several years ago, and was followed by Pinot Noir. The conversation ended with one of the partners saying "Fine, You can have your damned Chardonnay".

It is crafted with fruit from vines planted in 1983 at the famed Erv and Esther Willms Vineyard within the Four Mile Creek sub-appellation in Niagara-on-the-Lake. The 80x team didn't hesitate to purchase the Willms fruit when presented with the opportunity as they knew quality wines were produced by other well-known Niagara wine producers using fruit from this vineyard in the past.

The growing season in 2020 in Niagara was exceptional, in spite of a challenging year for humanity. Conditions were near perfect and favoured both white and red varieties. Grapes reached phenolic ripeness while retaining the all-important acidity. Days were warm, but nights were cool, allowing the grapes to rest and retain its acidity. The high diurnal temperature range between warm days and cool nights is almost unheard of in Niagara and helped greatly in achieving high quality wines across the board.

Harvest day was one of the highlights of 2020 for 80x Wine Company. It was an opportunity to get a small team of close friends to help them pick the fruit from the vineyards that looked like they had been photoshopped by mother nature. It was vinified by slow fermentation over several months in 2nd and 4th fill puncheons with indigenous yeast, with winemaker Adam keeping a close eye on it. In January 2021, they were forced to cover their puncheons with blankets to raise the temperature and feel that their patience was rewarded.

Only 99 cases and 16 magnums were produced and it is currently available for purchase direct through 80x Wine Company, on-site at Rockway Vineyards, and at select bottle shops in Ontario. Let's see how this 2020 Niagara Chardonnay is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DAM CHARDONNAY 2020 - VQA Four Mile Creek, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (XD) - $30
Elegant, medium-high intensity aromatics are a little musty, revealing golden apple, lemon citrus, butter and lactic aromas with a hint of vanilla spice. On the dry, creamy, medium+ bodied, and nicely textured, palate it offers delicious ripe golden apple, pear, lemon citrus, and buttery flavours with a hints of spice, peach, and honey. It's all supported by fresh, mouth-watering acidity. Citrus and apple notes are joined by touches of spice and earthy minerals on the finish, with very good length. This is indeed a Dam good Chardonnay and a recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Read More

Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret Petit Chablis 2020 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely Chardonnay from Burgundy that newly landed at the LCBO as part of last weekend's LCBO VINTAGES Release on January 21.

It is produced by Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret, a small family-owned estate whose history inscribed in vine cultivation and winemaking dating back to 1713. It all began in the early 18th century with Jean Vocoret, whose winemaking soul no doubt guided him to pass down his wisdom, his fruits, his passion, and the nobility of winemaking to his descendants,

The Domaine's more recent history of winemaking in Chablis begins with Victor Hyppolite Vocoret, the great, great grandfather of Yvon Vocoret. Born in 1863, Victor had a few acres of vineyards and some leaflets in the cellar. Henri Vocoret, born in 1895, and alongside his wife Louise were the grandparents of Yvon and they managed to make the land prosper with the help of their horses, and were very proud to produce excellent wine.

The fourth generation of the family to own the estate were Yvon's parents, Maurice (1928-1997) and Huguette (1933), who carefully reflected upon the art of winemaking and invested in high performance equipment for the cellar. Maurice and Huguette knew how to anticipate and plan so that the quality of their wines would be recognized.

Today, the Domaine is led by Yvon, the 5th generation of the family, and his son, Yvon, the 6th generation, together with Huguette, as they uphold the family motto - quality, dignity, and respect - and continue to write the story of a humble, but determined family of winegrowers who craft wines that bring pleasure. Since 1974, the Vocoret family has been farming the vineyards organically to respect and protect their vines and soils, as well as the environment. They have also been using organic soil materials which forces the soil to do its own work in order to transform the organic materials to minerals, so that the vine can feed itself and grow fruit in a natural, sustainable way and guarantee a quality vintage, year after year. The wines of Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret represent the essence of their exceptional terroir.

This Petit Chablis is crafted with 100% Chardonnay that was sourced from various plots covering 4 hectares of land throughout the appellation of Petit Chablis. The vines average 30 years of age and were planted on Portlandian Barrois clay-limestone and limestone marl soils which also feature red pebbles and a reddish-brown colour. Each plot of grapes were harvested at maturity and either manually or mechanically. It underwent a light static settling to retain the fine lees so that the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations can take place naturally. And finally, each plot was aged for approximately 9 months in stainless steel vats to preserve its fresh characteristics and allow plot to express itself prior to creating the final blend.

The 2020 growing season was warm and dry, yielding grapes with exceptional freshness and purity. The white wines of Burgundy classically styled, balanced, and consistently of a very high quality. As the 2020 vintage is such a fine vintage across the board, let's see how this 2020 Petit Chablis is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE YVON & LAURENT VOCORET PETIT CHABLIS 2020 - AC, Burgundy, France (#26446) (XD) - $27.95
This lovely Chardonnay has an elegant, medium-high intensity nose offering a lovely mix of ripe lemon, citrus, mineral oil, nutty, lactic, green apple, and white peach aromas. It is impressively weighted and quite structured on the medium-full bodied palate with lactic, mineral, lemon citrus, and green apple flavours supported by juicy, well-balanced acidity. Lemon citrus, apple, and white peach taper to leesy mineral notes on the long, crisp finish. Enjoyable now, but will be even better in a year or two. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

There is a Chablis 1er Cru available at the LCBO, while other lovely wines from their portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.

Read More

Casale del Giglio Satrico 2020 (Lazio) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely, eclectic white wine blend of three varietals that arrived at the LCBO today as a Smart Buy in the January 7 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Casale del Giglio, whose story begins in 1914 when three brothers - Emidio, Isidoro and Antonio Santarelli - established "Berardino Santarelli & Figli", a company named after the founding father, Berardino, Wine Merchant. The company moved to Rome and grew over the years, selling wines, liquors, and olive oils, and had several outlets across the city. In 1955, Emidio's son, Dino, founded the company "Santarelli S.p.A." to bottle Lazio's classic wines. These wines were sold primarily in Rome, but were also quite popular in Canada.

Casale del Giglio was established in 1967 by Dino Santarelli. He was fascinated by the Agro Pontino valley and founded Casale del Giglio at Le Ferriere, a hamlet close to the ancient city of Satricum in the province of Latina, some 50 kilometres south of Rome. A virgin territory, quite unlike other parts of Lazio or any other Italian region, the area was ripe for viticultural exploration.

In the early 1990s, Antonio Santarelli joined his father, Dino, and in partnership with the young enologist Paolo Tiefenthaler from the northern Italian Trentino region, they achieved remarkable results stemming from an intense programme of research and experimentation. They were joined by famous ampelographers and university researchers and planted close to 60 different experimental vines in Casale del Giglio's soil. With a scheme that was bold and daring in a very scientific way, they were rewarded and achieved their first significant results from the red grape varieties Syrah and Petit Verdot and from whites such as Sauvignon, Viognier, and Petit Manseng.

Today, Casale del Giglio continues to subscribe to the philosophy that "the future of Italian viticulture relies not only on consolidating the image of its traditional wine producing zones, but on its ability to produce top quality wines at favourable prices in areas whose potential is still relatively unexplored." As a result of Casale del Giglio's research, the the European Community authorized the cultivation of "new recommended varieties" such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Syrah, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Sauvignon in the province of Latina (from 1990), while other varieties were authorized later. Casale del Giglio has since elected to plant those grape varieties which adapt well to the territory and produce quality wines.

The Satrico is a white wine blend consisting of 40% Chardonnay, 40% Sauvignon Blanc, and 20% Trebbiano Giallo. Satrico gets its name from the ancient pre-Roman city of Satricum. Traces of the earliest huts, which formed a village around a central place of worship on high ground near the river Astura, date from the 9th century B.C. This hillside settlement, later to become the acropolis of the city, was the site of a temple dedicated to the goddess Mater Matuta. Remains of her temple can still be seen today, close to Casale del Giglio’s vineyards in the hamlet of Le Ferriere, near the town of Latina.

The grapes for this white wine were harvested just as they begin to ripen and vinified separately to ensure that the fresh, distinctive aromas and flavours of each variety come through in the final blend. The bunches were carefully selected, with only the very best bunches included in this wine, and after careful soft-pressing, the free-run juice was separated from the skins. It underwent a temperature-controlled, slow fermentation over 7-8 days, matured in stainless steel tanks, and bottled at the beginning of the following year. Let's see how this white wine blend from Lazio is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CASALE DEL GIGLIO SATRICO 2020 - IGT Lazio Bianco, Italy (#569806) (D) - $18.95
This eclectic blend of 40% Chardonnay, 40% Sauvignon Blanc, and 20% Trebbiano Giallo has a soft, medium+ intensity nose that is dusty and earthy with floral, lemon citrus, melon, and ripe apple aromas with a whiff of mango adding interest. It's impressively concentrated on the medium+ bodied palate with slightly spicy flavours of ripe melon, mango, lemon citrus, floral flavours in a dry flavour profile. Slightly viscous mouthfeel, along with juicy, well-balanced acidity, while savoury, leesy, and mineral notes linger on the long finish. Chill well and enjoy this recommended buy now! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Casale del Giglio can be ordered through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

Read More

Tenuta San Guido Wine Tasting (Tuscany) - Wine Reviews

Back in September, I had a great opportunity to taste the latest wines by Tenuta San Guido - makers of the iconic Sassicaia Super Tuscan wine from Bolgheri - and after the structured tasting enjoyed a fine lunch at Stratus Restaurant in downtown Toronto.

The story of Tenuta San Guido begins with Mario Incisa della Rocchetta. The Marchesi Incisa della Rocchetta are among the protagonists of Italian history, from the early Middle Ages to the emergence of the Baroque age, and beyond. Mario was born into a Piedmontese family in 1899 and studied agriculture in Pisa and immediately cultivated a strong inclination for agronomy. By the 1920s, his dream was to find perfection in agriculture and respect for the land.

In 1930, Mario married Clarice della Gherardesca, a descendant of one of the oldest families in Tuscany, and moved to Maremma, Tuscany. In addition to a common passion for wine, Mario and Clarice also had a passion for thoroughbred horses - a family passion that continues to this day with an on-site stable and training centre. Countess Clarice was also the heiress to 2,500 hectares in the Bolgheri area: Tenuta San Guido.

Mario Incisa immediately realized Tenuta San Guido as one of the most extraordinary biotypes of Mediterranean Europe and began experimenting with some French grape varieties, concluding that Cabernet had the bouquet he was seeking. Recalling a time in the 1920s when Mario Incisa tasted a wine belonging to the Dukes Salviati di Migliarino, grown on the hill of San Giuliano, near Pisa, he asked Salviatis for some plants of their vines and planted the first Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard on the hills that gently descended towards the sea, below the fortress of Castiglioncello. He also noticed the similarity between this land in Bolgheri and the Graves area in Bordeaux, due to the mainly gravelly soil which is very favourable to the production of great red wines. In order to grow excellent quality fruit, he pruned drastically to obtain low-yields, and then introduced barrique for the ageing of fine wines, following the example of French producers.

Although no one considered Bolgheri an area suited for the cultivation of Cabernet Sauvignon before the 1940s, Tenuta San Guido benefits from a set of natural elements that favours this varietal. The soils are partially clayey and situated at an altitude between 100 and 400 meters above sea level, with west and southwest exposure, along with a strong presence of limestone areas rich in Alberese and Gabbro, as well as stones. The climate also has its own peculiarity with an amphitheatre of hills embracing the land that stretches from Bibbona to Castagneto, protecting the vineyards and olive groves from northeast winds, while in summer this corridor is cooled by winds generated between the valleys of the Cecina river. The energy and sunlight are reflected from the sea to the hills, which in turn retains the sea breeze and generates refreshing humidity. Situated within a range of 2,500 hectares, this area was found to have the ideal terroir for Sassicaia.

Sassicaia, the wine whose name is a toponym, was strictly a private product reserved for family and friends from 1945 to 1967. In 1971, the 1968 vintage was the first vintage available to the public and it received praise worthy of greatness and importance. In 1978, the 1972 Sassicaia was awarded first place at a Decanter magazine blind tasting among 33 Cabernet Sauvignons from around the world and moved towards becoming the iconic wine it is today. In order to recognize Mario's vision in creating a wine that gave Italian winemaking lustre and fame, Italy created the Bolgheri DOC appellation in 1983, and in 2013 the sub-appellation of DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia was created. Since Tenuta San Guido owns all of the land under the DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia appellation, Sassicaia is the only wine that is made in the appellation.

Today, Tenuta San Guido is led by Honorary President Nicolò Incisa della Rocchetta. son of Mario. Nicolò joined his father in 1955 to help manage the family business. The Incisa family had a relationship with the Antinori family through Nicolò's mother, Clarice, who was from the Della Gherardesca family. It was through this relationship that Nicolò worked with the young oenologist Giacomo Tachis to develop the first red Bordeaux blend in the history of Bolgheri - it was the aforementioned 1968 Sassicaia. Nicolò was instrumental in turning Tenuta San Guido into a modern estate that combined family traditions with the expertise of independent managers.

The bond that exists between the family and company is now represented by Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta, daughter of Nicolò and brand manager responsible for external relations, and her five cousins and their children. The estate covers 2,500 hectares, of which 90 hectares are devoted to the vineyards and the winery. The approach in the vineyard is always measured against the needs of the land. Vineyard management requires a great deal of time and care and is influenced by the seasonality to determine if any interventions are required, while the concepts of sustainability, integration, and conservation are also important prerequisites prior to taking any action. Harvest is carried out manually, while in the winery, they strive to create wines with balance, pleasantness, elegance, freshness, sinuous tannins, and longevity.

In addition to Sassicaia, Tenuta San Guido also produces two other wines - Guidalberto and Le Difese. We had the opportunity to taste all three wines during the structured tasting which was led by Priscilla. After taking us through each of the fantastic wines, including some back vintages, we also had the opportunity to pair the wines with lunch. Reviews of all of the wines tasted are provided below, with the latest vintages available for purchase through the Agent - Sylvestre Wines & Spirits, or at the LCBO in the coming months.

Tasting Notes:

TENUTA SAN GUIDO LE DIFESE 2020 - IGT Toscana, Italy (#147876) (XD) - $38.95
First produced in 2002 and traditionally more Cab Sauv than Sangiovese, this vintage is a blend of 55% Sangiovese and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the Sangiovese purchased from two estates. From a warm vintage that was good for early ripening varieties, this has a clean, ripe, medium-high to highly aromatic nose of dark cherry-berry, currant, and clove with hints of cassis, as well as elegant wood spice aromas. Some beautiful floral notes emerge with time in glass. On the medium to medium-full bodied palate it offers elegant, fine-grained, and gritty tannins that have some structure. Very nice aroma replays are nicely balanced on the palate. Clove, currant, and dark cherry replays linger on the long, succulent finish. Coming to LCBO VINTAGES May 2023. Score: 92 pts

TENUTA SAN GUIDO GUIDALBERTO 2020 - IGT Toscana, Italy (#72439) (XD) - $66.95
A 50/50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that is fresh, yet seems shy with crushed dark red berry, currant, and cassis aromas with savoury undertones. It’s medium-full bodied on the crunchy palate with tight tannins. Very nice aroma replays on the flavour profile are joined by licorice, and wild herbs. It has fresh acidity and excellent length on the long, balanced, finish. Still a bit young and should age nicely up to a decade from now. Coming to LCBO VINTAGES March 2023. Score: 93 pts

TENUTA SAN GUIDO GUIDALBERTO 2015 - IGT Toscana, Italy (#72439) (XD)
Named after Guidalberto della Gherardesca, the ancestor who made the greatest contribution to the territory’s agricultural and viticultural history. This blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot has a lovely, perfumed, highly aromatic nose of currant, cassis, red & black fruits, with savoury, wet earth, forest floor undertones. It’s medium-full bodied with smooth, refined tannins that have some structure and is still a bit tight. Nicely balanced aroma replays with elegance on the palate. Balanced acids. Long, dark berry, currant, and earthy finish. Score: 93 pts

SASSICAIA 2019 - DOC Bolgheri-Sassicaia, Tuscany, Italy (#480533) (XD) - $249.95
A traditional blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. From a very regular, steady vintage, this has a medium-high to highly aromatic nose that offers a lovely perfume of red & black fruits, currant, cherry, wet earth, and forest floor, with touches of florality. It’s medium-full to full-bodied with lovely aroma replays plus spice notes and smooth, structured, and elegant tannins that are balanced with fresh acidity. Nicely balanced flavours throughout, tapering to a very long, currant, dark berry, and wet earth finish. Score: 96 pts

SASSICAIA 2018 - DOC Bolgheri-Sassicaia, Tuscany, Italy (#480533) (XD)
85/15 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. First made in 1968 and celebrating its 50th vintage, the perfumed, medium-high to highly aromatic nose offers fresh dark and red berry, currant, and cassis notes with touches of purple fruit and floral. On the medium-full to full-bodied palate it has fresh acidity and lovely aroma replays. Smooth, structured, and dusty textured tannins are very nicely balanced throughout. Attractive fruit and savoury earthy interplays on the finish, with excellent length. Very approachable now and will continue to age well into the late 2030s. Score: 96 pts

SASSICAIA 2010 - DOC Bolgheri-Sassicaia, Tuscany, Italy (#480533) (XD)
Blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc from a fresher vintage and long harvest. Beautiful, highly aromatic, maturing nose of dried cherry, rose florals, and savoury wet earth. Wow! Lovely smooth, refined, finely textured tannins on the medium-full to full-bodied palate with lovely aroma replays plus some earthy mineral notes on the flavour profile. Juicy, well-balanced acids. Very nice, very long, earthy mineral finish. Will continue to drink well for another 10+ years. Score: 97 pts

Read More