Estancia Los Cardones Anko Torrontés 2019 (Argentina) - Wine Review

After enjoying a fine Malbec from Salta last week, I return to Argentina's northernmost wine region and a land of extremes for a delicious Torrontés for tonight's wine review. This white wine is new to the LCBO, arriving as part of the recent September 4 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Found only in Argentina, Torrontés is its most famous criolla variety and is the signature white wine varietal of the country. thriving in the high altitude of northwestern Argentine wine country. There are three sub-varieties of Torrontés - Mendocino, Sanjuanino, and Riojano. The first two variants produce wines that are lighter and fresher, but it's the Riojano that is the most cultivated because it expresses the best qualities to produce fine wines, in particular those from Cafayate Valley, Salta. It is typically light-yellow in colour, but can also have golden or green hues, and is characterized by floral aromas like rose, jasmine, and geranium. While the aromas may indicate sweetness, it is typically dry with fresh acidity.

This lovely Torrontés is produced by Estancia Los Cardones, a winery that was established in 2008 by Fernando Saavedra Jr. and his father, along with partners Jeff Mausbach (Catena alumni) and renowned winemaker Alejandro (Colo) Sejanovich. Together, they realized their dream to create a boutique winery in their native province of Salta to produce wines that express the extreme beauty, altitude, and sunlight of the region. The name "Estancia Los Cardones" pays tribute to the region's giant cacti - Cardones - while Anko means "high water" in the native Indian language of Quechan. Anko is an high altitude oasis that was treasured as a precious sanctuary and provided protection from the harsh elements of nature.

The winery is located in Tolombón, Salta, just south of the city of Cafayate at 1,700 metres (5,500 feet) above sea level at the top of the eastern slopes of the Calchaquí Valleys. At this altitude, Salta is exposed to intense sunlight during the day, and cold mountain nights which ensure excellent natural acid retention and imparts freshness, elegance and balance. The soil profile at the winery is very rocky, with abundant splintered shale and crushed mica, lending distinct minerality to the wines.

Tasting Note:

ESTANCIA LOS CARDONES ANKO TORRONTÉS 2019 - Salta, Argentina (#19394) (XD) - $16.95
Gently whole cluster pressed, cold macerated, and fermented using natural yeast, this unoaked Torrontés was grown on sandy soils with crushed mica at 1,700 metres (5,500 feet) above sea level. Screw cap. Delicate, medium-high intensity aromas offer lovely lychee, jasmine floral, tropical fruit, and citrus notes with a subtle earthy mineral element rising out of the glass. On the spicy, medium+ bodied palate, it has very good concentration and delicious aroma replays of lychee, citrus, jasmine, and tropical fruit flavours lifted by fresh, balanced acidity. Dry and crisp, with notes of saline and oyster shell minerality lingering on the long, satisfying finish. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by the team at Estancia Los Cardones are available through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Château Siaurac 2010 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a lovely Bordeaux from the legendary 2010 vintage that returned to the LCBO last weekend as part of the September 4th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Château Siaurac is the largest and most emblematic estate in the Lalande de Pomerol appellation. It is located on a single, contiguous plot on the plateau of Néac, which is a continuation of the famous plateau of neighbouring Pomerol, separated by a small trickle of water called the Barbane.

The Château's origins of winegrowing date back to at least the mid-18th century, with documents showing casks of red and white wine sold to the son of a wine merchant in Libourne, nearby to the southwest of the estate. The Domaine has been passed down familial lines since Pierre Brisson purchased the estate in 1832. When his son, Benjamin Brisson, inherited the estate and married Elise Chaperon, the Château was mentioned in their marriage contract. Their only son, Joseph Brisson, was a town councillor, Mayor of Néac, and Member of Parliament for the Gironde region in 1902. Joseph managed the Siaurac holdings and estate for 50 years, fighting for the recognition of the quality of wines from Néac. He was also President of the Winegrower's Association from 1919 and tried to merge the appellation of Néac with that of Pomerol.

After marriage in 1919, Joseph and his wife, Marthe, had a daughter named Madeleine. She married into the Guichard family, and their son Oliver inherited the lands and vineyards in 1978. Starting in 2004, the estate was managed by his daughter Aline Guichard and her husband Paul Goldschmidt. After Artémis Domaines acquired a stake in 2014, the property was sold to Les Terroirs de Suravenir in 2020 with the intention of developing the Château over the long-term and realizing its full potential.

In addition to the magnificent vineyards, Château Siaurac also has gardens on the property which are on the list of the 300 most exceptional gardens in France, featuring some extraordinary trees that are as much as 350 years old.

This red wine was grown in the Château's 41 hectare vineyard (which is 46 hectares today) on gravel, deep clays, and sandy clay soils. The vineyard has 40 distinct plots which are planted to 74% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Malbec, while the blend of this red wine is 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc from a selection of the best plots of the vineyard. After a controlled and gentle extraction, followed by fermentation, it was aged for 12 months in French oak barrels, 20% new.

Although this 2010 Bordeaux has shown up in VINTAGES a number of times over the years, this is actually my first time trying it. Let's see how this 2010 Bordeaux is tasting now, 11 years from vintage.

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU SIAURAC 2010 - AC Lalande de Pomerol, Bordeaux, France (#309831) (XD) - $44.95
This blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc pours deep ruby in colour. The maturing nose is intensely aromatic and complex with very attractive sweet baking spices, sweet plums, dried cherry, dried roses, and sandalwood aromas with savoury earth undertones. It's medium-full bodied on the spicy, slightly warm palate with dark berry, black cherry, blackberry, and plum flavours surrounding a savoury-earthy, and sweet spice core. Acids are well-balanced, while tannins are still a bit tight and grippy. Excellent length on the savoury, sweet spiced finish. Should continue to drink well for a number of years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

As they only make two wines, the other wine from Château Siaurac can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Piattelli Reserve Malbec 2019 (Argentina) - Wine Review

To continue the recent string of lovely Argentine wines, tonight's wine review is another lovely Malbec that arrived at the LCBO over the long weekend and is featured as a "Smart Buy" in the September 4th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Crafted by Piattelli Vineyards, their story begins in the 1940s, when the Giovanni Piattelli family immigrated from Tuscany to Mendoza and brought along with them a winemaking legacy, tradition, and passion. In the late 1990s, American businessman Jon Malinski was visiting Argentina on the hunt for lumber to import into the U.S.A. By chance, Jon met the Piattelli family and found incredible vineyards and wine, amazing people, beautiful landscapes, and couldn't bear the thought of leaving the country. Soon thereafter, the Malinski and Piattelli families came together to form Piattelli Vineyards.

Today, Piattelli Vineyards continues to be family-owned and managed. At the heart of their operations is the winery that opened in 2002 in the town of Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo (Mendoza). In 2009, they expanded into Cafayete (Salta) - where this wine is from - with vineyards and a brand new gravity flow winery. A 4th generation winemaker and daughter of a famous Mendozan winemaker, Valeria Antolin is the Principal Winemaker at Piattelli. She has been with Piattelli since the beginning and leads all winemaking decisions at both facilities.

Sustainability is a core value at Piattelli Vineyards, believing that what is good for the environment is also good for the wine. They are committed to producing wines that reflect their landscape and climate, while preserving natural resources.

Although Malbec is widely cultivated in Argentina, this particular Malbec is from the northern region of Salta, which is home to not only some of Argentina's highest vineyards, but also the world's, ranging in elevation from 1,530 to 3,111 metres (5,000 to 10,200 feet) above sea level. The climate in Salta is arid and dry, with high average temperatures, a wide daily thermal amplitude (i.e. large diurnal temperature range), and intense solar radiation enhanced by the altitude and long summers.

The system of mountain valleys in northern Argentina are called the "Calchaquí Valleys" and were formed 5 million years ago, stretching 270 km within the region. This Malbec was grown in Cafayate Valley in Salta at an elevation of 1,700 metres (5,600 feet) on soils that are mostly free-draining chalky loam, and in some areas quite rocky. Since Cafayate has a desert climate with very low rainfall and humidity, the vines rely on meltwater from the Andes to keep them hydrated, while the dry soils cause stress in the vines, leading to fewer, but more concentrated grapes rich in flavours. Let's see how this high-altitude Malbec from Cafayate is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

PIATTELLI RESERVE MALBEC 2019 - Valle de Cafayate, Salta, Argentina (#452029) (XD) - $16.95
100% Malbec that was aged for 8 months in American and French oak barrels. The perfumed, medium-high intensity nose has complex aromas of dark berry, blackberry, inky, violet, meaty, reductive, and spice aromas with savoury, wet earth undertones. It's medium-full bodied on the ripe palate with pleasing dark berry, blackberry, violet, and dark plum flavours accented with wood spices. It has fresh, balanced acidity and smooth, fine-grained tannins with a subtle, fine chalky texture. Savoury, earthy, and woody with blackberry and violets lingering on the finish, with very good length. Recommended buy. Score: 89 pts

Other delicious wines from Piattelli Vineyards can be ordered through their Agent - Imprese Inc. or Kinetic Brands.

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Montpellier Viognier 2020 (California) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a tasty Viognier blend from California that is a new arrival to the LCBO that was released as part of the August 21st LCBO VINTAGES Release.

The Montpellier Vineyards brand of wines are produced by Bronco Wine Company, a family-owned company whose winemaking traditions go back to 1893. Since childhood, brothers Fred T. and Joseph S. Franzia, alongside their first cousin, John G. Franzia, have been learning every aspect of the wine business from their fathers. On Christmas Day in 1973, the three members of the Franzia family succumbed to the industry's charms and formed Bronco Wine Company.

Over the next 40+ years, the family-owned company has grown to become a force in the U.S. wine industry, committing itself to becoming the largest privately held vineyard holder in the U.S. Bronco Wine Company is focused on crafting quality wines for every table through hard work, innovation, and a willingness to embrace change - touchstones that are the backbone of its success and while also laying the groundwork for a strong foundation for future generations.

Tasting Note:

MONTPELLIER VIOGNIER 2020 - California, USA (#658138) (D) - $19.95
Predominantly Viognier (83%) with Chardonnay (6.7%), Gewurztraminer (5%), and Muscat (5.3%) completing the blend. The medium intensity nose seems quiet with aromas of lemon, white floral, and herbs with hints of apple, pear, lychee, and beeswax. The mid-weighted palate is fleshy and viscous with ripe lemon, white flowers, herbal flavours. The bright, juicy acidity hides the vague impression of sweetness, with notes of ripe apple, vanilla, lychee and beeswax joining the flavour replays on the dry, juicy, slightly bitter and leesy finish, with very good length. Score: 88 pts

Other delicious wines from Montpellier Vineyards are available through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Chakana Estate Selection Malbec 2019 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is this delicious, vegan-friendly Malbec from Argentina. After a two year absence, the Yaguarete (Jaguar) of the Uco Valley returned to LCBO VINTAGES on August 21st and is widely available across the province.

It is produced by Chakana Wines, a winery that was founded in 2002, after taking up the family legacy that began in the 19th century when their ancestors made quality wines in the mountainous region of Valtellina in Lombardy, Italy. Chakana is dedicated to studying and understanding some of the best terroirs in Argentina, with the primary goal of producing authentic wines that express the identity and character of its soils. They are located in Agrelo (Luján de Cuyo), but also have vineyards in Altamira (Uco Valley), all within Mendoza.

In 2012, Chakana began work to recover and maintain the harmony of its soils by transitioning to organic and biodynamic viticulture. They also produce their wines with minimal intervention, using indigenous yeasts, and favouring the use of porous materials (i.e. concrete without epoxy and barrels) in ageing, in order to preserve the character of the place in the wine. The winemaker is Gabriel Bloise, a member of the new generation of winemakers. Gabriel understands oenology as a means of expressing nature and believes that the best wines are those that do not bear the mark of whoever makes them, but of the places where they are developed.

The last time I tasted this wine was over two years ago when the 2016 Chakana Estate Selection Malbec showed up in VINTAGES in spring 2019. Because of Chakana's constant soil and terroir research, the grapes that make up this Malbec seem to be sourced from different regions each vintage. For the 2019 vintage, this Malbec comes from Gualtallary (Tupungato) and Los Chacayes (Tunuyán), within the Uco Valley, at an altitude of 1,100 metres (3,600 feet) on sandy loam soils with gravels near the surface. The climate is cool and sunny with good diurnal temperatures, but is relatively more humid than other areas of Mendoza. It was aged in used French oak barrels and concrete vats for 12 months. Let's see how this latest Malbec is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHAKANA ESTATE SELECTION MALBEC 2019 - Vegan, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina (#219261) (XD) - $19.95
100% Malbec from Gualtallary (Tupungato) and Los Chacayes (Tunuyán). Generous aromas of wet earth, game, savoury, and brett are accented with ripe red berry, cherry, floral, and sweet spice notes. On the medium-full bodied palate it has very ripe red fruit and cherry flavours joined by savoury, earthy, and wood notes, supported by fresh, balanced acidity and grainy, textured tannins that are slightly grippy. Tangy with savoury earth notes linger on the finish, with good length. Score: 88 pts

Other delicious wines by Chakana Wines are available through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Salentein Reserve Rosé 2020 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a lovely dry rosé from Argentina that is made with Syrah! It's a new arrival to the LCBO, landing on shelves across Ontario a couple of weeks ago as part of the August 21st LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Bodegas Salentein was founded in the 1990s with the goal of producing first-rate wines with a sense of place, while respecting nature and using the principles of sustainability to take part in the life of the area's community. They are located in the heart of Mendoza, with vineyards in the Uco Valley, where the sandy and loamy soils, and dry weather with very hot days and very cool nights help produce high quality grapes.

The magnificent bodega is located at an elevation of 1,200 meters (4,000 feet) with the nearby western horizon dominated by the snowy Andes mountains. The cross-shape of the bodega has four wings, and each is a little bodega with two levels - the first level is for fermentation and storage, while the second level is subterranean (9 metres / 29 feet underground) and used for barrel ageing. A gravity-flow system is used to gently move the wine through the vinification and ageing process. The underground cellar has the benefit of constant temperatures and humidity, allowing the wines to age in optimal conditions. The floor of the cellar was built using natural stones from the Cuyo region using yellow quartzite sandstone, green chlorite of schist variety, and red limonite sandstone, among others. If you are visiting Mendoza, you will certainly want to visit Bodegas Salentein!

This particular dry rosé was crafted with 100% clone 99 Syrah grapes planted in 1996 in the vineyards of the El Oasis estate in Los Arboles (Tunuyán county) at an altitude of 1,050 metres (3,400 feet) above sea-level. With a hot summer that was slightly warmer than average, combined with low rainfall, yields were down in 2020, but produced healthy grapes of exceptional quality. Let's see how this 2020 Syrah Rosé is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

SALENTEIN RESERVE ROSÉ 2020 - Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina (#19555) (XD) - $17.95
This lovely 100% Syrah was matured for 6 months on its fermentation lees. Screw cap. The fresh, medium+ intensity nose has pretty aromas of red berry, cherry, strawberry, and floral wrapped around stony mineral. The dry, mid-weighted palate is tangy, tart, and spicy, accented with citrus, red berry, strawberry, and mineral flavours that are supported by crisp, lemony acidity. Subtle chalky texture on the mid-palate. Tangy citrus with saline minerals lingering on the crisp finish, with very good length. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Bodegas Salentein are available at the LCBO, as well as through their Agent - Azureau Wines & Spirits.

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Librandi Duca Sanfelice Cirò Riserva Rosso 2017 (Calabria) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a lovely red wine made with the indigenous varietal Gaglioppo from Calabria. It arrived at the LCBO a couple of weeks ago, as part of the August 21st LCBO VINTAGES Release and is featured as part of the theme on the sunny wines of the Mediterranean.

It is produced by Librandi Winery, a family-owned producer that first bottled its own wines in 1953 in Via Tirone, Cirò Marina, with wines made using Gaglioppo and Greco Bianco grapes. The company expanded its winemaking activities in 1955 by purchasing an estate in the Ponta area, and named it 'Duca Sanfelice'. The grapes for this wine are from Duca Sanfelice, an estate which was further expanded by purchasing neighbouring plots in 1973. Librandi inaugurated their new wine production facility in 1975 within the municipality of Cirò Marina, where they are still located today.

Cultivating vines for four generations, the Librandi family have been steadfast supporters of the region's land and its riches. They are eager to spread the knowledge of Calabria's rich winemaking heritage that goes back to the 8th century BC, when a Greek colony made up of mostly winemakers settled on the Ionian shores and named the area "Enotria Tellus", or Land of Wine.

First crafted in 1983, this red wine is made with the indigenous Gaglioppo varietal that was grown on clayey and calcareous soils within the heart of the Calabrian winemaking region - the comunes of Cirò and Cirò Marina, in the province of Crotone. It was vinified in stainless steel vats, then aged in a combination of steel and concrete vats for 2 years, followed by bottle ageing for a few months prior to release, which should provide a very pure-fruit experience unobstructed by oak. I recall only trying one Gaglioppo wine prior to this and am curious to see how this compares. Let's see how this Gaglioppo red wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LIBRANDI DUCA SANFELICE CIRÒ RISERVA ROSSO 2017 - DOC, Calabria, Italy (#695874) (XD) - $17.95
100% Gaglioppo aged in steel and concrete for 2 years, the medium-high intensity nose offers complex ripe black and dark red cherries and spices joined by some funky earthy, rustic, and touch minerally aromas, along with some baking spice, plum, and candied cherry notes that arrive with time in the glass. It's medium+ bodied with attractive black cherry, spice, and plum flavours that are supported by fresh, balanced acidity. Smooth, fine tannins have a slightly grainy & chalky texture on the mid-palate. Juicy with notes of black cherry, mineral, and a touch of smoke lingering on the long, satisfying finish. Highly recommended buy. Score: 90+ pts

Other lovely, authentically Calabrian wines by Librandi can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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