El Esteco Blend de Extremos Malbec 2021 (Argentina) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a lovely, high-altitude Malbec from Argentina. This new arrival landed at the LCBO recently as part of the December 17 LCBO VINTAGES Release. (Although the VINTAGES magazine and LCBO website may list 2020, it's actually the 2021 vintage that arrived in stores.)

It is produced by El Esteco, a pioneering institution founded in 1892 that was one of the first in Argentina to master the art of viticulture and winemaking. They are situated in northwestern Argentina in the heart of the Calchaquí Valleys - a hidden treasure in the summit of the world and a gem in the world of winemaking. With nearly 1,000 acres of vineyards, El Esteco condenses all the spirit of the region in their fruit. El Esteco also stands at an ideal elevation of more than 1,700 metres (5,500 feet) above sea level and benefits from ever-present sunshine and a perfect diurnal temperature range, an environment that is perfect for the creation of fine wines. El Esteco is surrounded by vineyards and housed in a 100-year-old, iconic vallisto Spanish colonial-style building, while inside the winery they have the latest wine production technologies such as concrete containers, stainless steel tanks, and French and American oak barrels, all of which allow them to craft wines of diverse styles, aromas, and flavours.

This red wine is from their Blend de Extremos range of wines that aim to perfect the balance between two different expressions of the Calchaquí Valley - the Cafayate with its potent base and characteristics, and Chañar Punco, an exclusive region with highly valued vines that pours its virtues into its wines. Blend de Extremos wines are an adventure that merges the best of two extreme regions.

The Malbec in this wine comes from Finca La Maravilla in Cafayate, which situated at 1,700 metres above sea level, and Finca Chañar Punco which is situated even higher at 2,000 metres above sea level. In Cafayate, the broad temperature range is marked by warm days and cold nights, allowing for the development of ripe berries that condense all the best that the region has to offer. The desert climate and soils, which are poor in organic matter, help define the unique terroir in Cafayate, allowing El Esteco to produce distinct wines with great concentration of colour, deep aromas and well-defined flavours.

Chañar Punco is a a hidden treasure at the top of the world. A unique sub-region surrounded by the Quilmes Mountains, Chañar Punco is located in the southwest of the Calchaquí Valley and has poor, rocky, and calcareous soils combined with the scarce heat load and radiation in the months prior to harvest, thus allowing the grapes to slowly develop its maximum expression. The vineyards in Chañar Punco run north-south, allowing moderate winds from the north to improve the microclimate of the canopy, while distilled water is pumped deep from the soil, along with drip irrigation to hydrate the vines. Let's see how this Malbec from Calchaquí Valleys is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

EL ESTECO BLEND DE EXTREMOS MALBEC 2021 - Valles Calchaquíes, Argentina (#24863) (XD) - $18.95
Screw cap. This unoaked Malbec from Cafayate and Chañar Punco has a funky, reductive nose off the top, revealing dark berry, plum, black and blueberry and subtle white pepper spice aromas. It's medium+ bodied with spicy flavours of dark berry, blackberry, blueberry, and dried herb, with some mineral notes, all backed by fresh, balanced acidity and smooth, refined tannins that have a subtle chalky grip. Minerally with subtle spice and dried herb notes linger on the finish, with very good length. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by El Esteco can be ordered through their Agent - Dandurand.

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Brilla! Extra Dry Prosecco (Italy) - Wine Review

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays! Tonight's sparkling wine review is a delicious bubbly that I purchased a couple of weeks ago in preparation for holiday gatherings. This Prosecco made its debut in LCBO VINTAGES a couple of years ago and has quickly become a customer favourite with its unique, eye-catching, and sparkling packaging.

Tasting Note:

BRILLA! EXTRA DRY PROSECCO - DOC, Italy (#13836) (D) - $19.95
Crafted with 100% Glera, the medium intensity nose offers fresh aromas of lemon, peach, and apricot with touches of floral. It's medium+ bodied with crisp acidity and fine mousse, with just off-dry flavours of lemon, floral, peach, and ripe apple with touches of honeysuckle. It has a pleasing, crisp mouthfeel that lingers through to faintly mineral finish, with good length. Solid A for packaging, while the juice inside is highly quaffable and widely appealing. Score: 87 pts

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Esk Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2020 (New Zealand) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a lovely white wine from New Zealand that arrived at the LCBO last weekend as part of the December 17th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Esk Valley Wines, a brand that was created in the 1970s, but whose story begins in the 1930s as Glenvale Winery and a specialist in fortified wines. In 1986, the historic winery in Hawkes Bay was purchased from the Bird family by George Fistonich, owner of Villa Maria. Esk Valley quickly developed a reputation for its innovative and quality wines, breaking boundaries by introducing new grape varieties and wine styles to Hawkes Bay.

Today, Esk Valley Wines are crafted by winemaker Gordon Russell, one of New Zealand's most recognized winemaking identities. Born in New Plymouth, New Zealand, he developed an appreciation for wine while in England and Europe and when he returned to NZ, he joined Villa Maria in Auckland in 1987 and was appointed Winemaker of Esk Valley Wines in 1993. Gordon strives to make wines that tell the story of the vineyard, and with his many years of experience he has learned that paying attention to detail in the vineyard results in the winemaking process becoming a simple, hands-off affair. Gordon is passionate about using concrete fermenting tanks, and continues to use them even after Esk Valley moved its production in 2018 to the new facility in Gimblett Gravels.

Although Esk Valley Wines is based in Hawkes Bay, they do craft wines using fruit from other wine regions in New Zealand, such as this white wine from Marlborough. Labelled as a regional blend, this 100% Sauvignon Blanc is crafted with fruit from stony vineyard sites, with 72% coming from the cooler Awatere Valley and 28% from the Wairau Valley. The Wairau Valley fruit provides structure and tropical fruit notes, while the Awatere Vineyard offers acidity and pungent notes of nettle, pea pods, and gooseberry. All of the vineyards are carefully managed and crop thinned in the pursuit of quality fruit. To craft this wine, individual vineyard parcels were harvested and transported to the winery for immediate pressing to capture the freshness of the fruit. It was fermented at cool temperatures using selected yeast strains and then left on its lees to gain richness and complexity prior being blended and bottled in November 2020.

The growing season in 2020 was a winemaker's dream harvest as good sized crops were ripened under clear, blue skies. The days were warm and dry, while the nights were cool enough for the vines to rest and retaining acidity in the fruit, thus bringing freshness to the wines. Let's see how this 2020 Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ESK VALLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2020 - Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#12638) (XD) - $21.95
Screw cap. The fragrant nose has classic NZ Sauvignon Blanc aromas of gooseberry and nettle, plus lemon/lime citrus and touches of tropical fruit with mineral undertones. There is good weight on the medium-full bodied, dry palate with delicious gooseberry, nettle, and tart lemon/lime citrus replays, plus grapefruit on the flavour profile. Nicely balanced throughout with crisp and vibrant acidity. Leesy mineral notes come to the fore on the creamy, long, and succulent finish. Recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Since there is very limited availability of other fine wines by Esk Valley at the LCBO, you're best bet to order them through their Agent - Univins & Spiritueux.

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Lungarotti IlBio Rosso 2020 (Umbria) - Wine Review

After enjoying the 2016 Lungarotti IlBio Rosso a couple of years ago, tonight's organic red wine review is the latest vintage of this IGT wine from Umbria that arrived at the LCBO over the weekend as part the December 17 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Founded in the early 1960s by Giorgio Lungarotti when he brought together the farms of a few families, Cantine Lungarotti soon became a major force in the comune of Torgiano, where it is based, as well as throughout Umbria, opening up new opportunities with wine as the centrepiece. Although the establishment Cantine Lungarotti is fairly recent, the Lungarotti family history goes back to the 1700s when they were farmers in the Middle Tiber Valley. It was during this time that family began to realize the potential of the Umbrian land to produce wine and oil. The mid-1990s marked the beginning of the replanting of vineyards according to new agronomic techniques with an eyes towards ecological conscience. In 2010, Lungarotti began the organic cultivation of 20 hectares of vines at the Montefalco Estate and in 2017 they launched their first organic wine - the 2015 IlBio Rosso.

Depicted on the label of this organic red wine is the land registry map of the Lungarotti Azienda Agraria's Montefalco Estate, which is located along provincial road SP 445 that connects Montefalco with the sanctuary of Madonna della Stella. In the past, land registry maps used to list the principal elements of each farm such as number of inhabitants and workers, crops, and yields. In a similar fashion, Lungarotti has listed the main characteristics of both the vineyard where they grow grapes, as well as of the wine itself.

Not listed on the label are the grapes used to craft this red wine. Although the back label mentions that it is produced using the "King" of the varietals of Montefalco, Italian wine law states that the varietal can only be indicated on the label when it is a local DOCG wine. In Montefalco, a DOCG wine is very structured and complex. However, because Lungarotti wanted to craft a more pleasant and appealing wine, it was vinified at lower temperatures and limited its extraction, resulting in a wine that is classified as an IGT. This organic red wine is, in fact, crafted with 100% Sagrantino, that was grown at 350 metres above sea level on medium mixture soils with light skeleton and well-draining sub-soils at average depth. The vineyards are exposed to the south and southwest. It was fermented in stainless steel and then aged for 10 months in 30 hectolitre casks, followed by further refinement in bottle for 6 months. Let's see how this latest Sagrantino from Umbria is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LUNGAROTTI ILBIO ROSSO 2020 - IGT Umbria, Italy (#16573) (XD) - $26.95
Crafted with Sagrantino, this organic wine has a medium+ intensity nose offering a pleasing mix of red cherry, wet earth, and and sweet baking spice aromas with touches of dried floral, cinnamon, currant, and sweet tobacco. It's medium+ bodied with structured, gritty, chalky, and drying tannins along with fresh acidity. Flavours of red and dark cherries, savoury wet earth, and tobacco. There's some warmth on the mid-palate, while savoury woodsmoke notes linger on the finish, with good length. Enjoy with salty protein. Score: 88+ pts

Other lovely wines by Lungarotti can be found not only at the LCBO, but also through their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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Closerie des Alisiers Trilogie de Terroirs Pouilly-Fuissé 2020 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is an excellent Chardonnay from Burgundy that is new to the LCBO, arriving in stores this weekend as part of the LCBO VINTAGES Release on December 17.

It is produced by Stéphane Brocard, son of renowned Chablis winemaker Jean-Marc Brocard. After it started getting a bit too crowded at his father's family business, Stéphane set out on his own in 2007 and moved to Marsannay, founding his Trading House and the Closerie des Alisiers property in Chablis. In addition to owning his own vines in Pommard and the village of Daix, Stéphane set up a boutique négociant business contracting small parcels of carefully selected grapes because he had an intimate knowledge of the region, as well as the drive to blaze his own trail. He works with the same winegrowers and plots year after year to offer authentic wines based on purity of fruit and freshness, while also having the greatest respect for the terroir and environment. He encourages his vignerons to use organic farming methods and champions minimal intervention at all stages of production. Between Closerie des Alisiers and the wines of their partner estates, Maison Stéphane Brocard covers all of the appellations and diversity of Burgundy.

Crafted with 100% Chardonnay, this particular wine is called Trilogy of Terroirs because the grapes come from the three same selected plots, year after year, in the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation of the Mâconnais subregion in Burgundy. Grown within the communes of Solutré and Vergisson, the 70-year-old vines are based on limestone soils with very hard fossil corals. The vineyards are situated on fairly steep slopes with exposure to the east and south-east, and between 200 to 300 metres above sea level. The vines are tended to in reasoned culture with the greatest respect for the soil and the environment.

The growing season in 2020 in Burgundy produced classic wines despite the hot and dry conditions, and the wines of the vintage can be characterized and fresh, vibrant, and classically styled. From an exceptional year, let's see how this 2020 white wine from Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CLOSERIE DES ALISIERS TRILOGIE DE TERROIRS POUILLY-FUISSÉ 2020 - AC, Burgundy, France (#26440) (XD) - $37.95
This 100% Chardonnay has a nose that seems a bit shy and tight, but with some coaxing offers ripe lemon citrus, mineral, apple, melon, and peach aromas with nutty notes emerging with time in the glass. It is beautifully structured on the medium to medium-full bodied on the nicely balanced palate with spicy apple, lemon citrus, melon flavours with a twist of honey. It has fresh and firm acidity, while mineral, nut, and mealy notes emerge on the long, juicy, and mouth-watering finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92+ pts

Other excellent wines by Maison Stéphane Brocard can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Lakeview Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Icewine 2017 (Niagara) - Wine Review

After enjoying the excellent 2019 Lakeview Cellars Gewürztraminer Icewine last month, tonight's Icewine review is another lovely Icewine from the same producer. This lovely red Icewine returned to the LCBO today as part of the December 17 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Lakeview Cellars was established in Vineland in 1991 by Eddy Gurinskas. Today, Lakeview Cellars is the oldest of several wine brands owned by Diamond Estates Wines & Spirits Inc. and is situated at Lakeview Wine Co. on Niagara Stone Road in Niagara-on-the-Lake.

At present, Thomas Green is the Vice-President of Winemaking and Winery Operations at Lakeview. He began his career at Lakeview Cellars as an apprentice to winemaking under Eddy. After graduating in 2000 as part of the first graduating class of Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture (CCOVI) at Brock University, Thomas remained at Lakeview Cellars and worked with Eddy for three more years until Eddy retired. In 2003, Thomas took over head winemaking duties at Lakeview Cellars, and then Diamond Estates in 2005. As a nostalgic brand for Thomas, he is proud that Lakeview Cellars has built a worldwide reputation for creating exquisite Niagara wines that are both high in quality and affordable. Although the label has changed over the years, the high quality wines produced by Lakeview Cellars has remained consistent for over two decades.

Crafted with 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, the frozen grapes were harvested in early December when temperatures fell between -10°C and -13°C, After settling the juice in stainless steel tanks, a cool fermentation was completed in late-February when the wine was placed outdoors to stop fermentation and complete a natural cold stabilization. Let's see how this Cabernet Sauvignon Icewine from Niagara is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LAKEVIEW CELLARS CABERNET SAUVIGNON ICEWINE 2017 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#471813) (S) (200 mL) - $39.95
Pours a medium garnet colour. The lovely, highly aromatic nose is open, fresh, and fragrant with ripe raspberry, strawberry jam, cran-cherry, and plum aromas, plus subtle spice notes. It's medium to medium-full bodied on the sweet palate with lovely strawberry jam, raspberry, cran-cherry, and subtle spice flavour replays. Harmonious and well-balanced throughout with a subtle chalky mouthfeel adding a nice textural element. Fresh, lively, and juicy acidity holds it all together, while the red berry flavours give way to faintly mineral notes on the long, juicy finish. Delicious and a highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Other lovely Icewines and table wines from Lakeview Cellars are available at the LCBO and direct through the winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake.

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Jean-Marc Brocard Sainte Claire Chablis 2020 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely Chardonnay that is coming to the LCBO this weekend as part of the December 17 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Jean-Marc Brocard, a family domaine that was established in 1973 in the center of Chablis, in Burgundy. Since the beginning, Jean-Marc Brocard was committed to a healthier culture and respectful of the environment. As one of the first organic wine producers in Chablis and Burgundy, in 1997 they converted their first plot of 11 hectares to organic and biodynamic farming. Today, the domaine covers 144 hectares with more than 60 hectares certified organic farming and 40 hectares biodynamic.

In 1995, Jean-Marc's son, Julien, joined the family domaine to work alongside his father. Julien is also passionate about biodynamics and traditional methods. Their logo is an ammonite - a life force, the spiral is naturally present in nature and is a symbol and creation and fulfillment, it also characterizes the Broacrd family's commitment to continuous improvement.

The unique style of Brocard wines are focuses around three words - precision, strength, and freshness. Precision involves accurately conveying the terroir, the memory of the soil transmitted from vine to wine, and the pure typical characteristics of the Chablis soil with its marine sediments deposited during the Jurassic era. Strength is conveyed in the structure of a wine that is powerful and long on the palate, while also appreciating the complexity of a terroir. Freshness is the a natural acidity that is born of the land's minerality, giving this wine its signature tautness.

One of quite a few Chablis wines in the Jean-Marc Brocard portfolio, this particular wine is from their Sainte Claire Vineyard which boasts Kimmeridgian limestone soils. It is crafted with 100% Chardonnay from 60-year-old vines and fermented with indigenous yeast. This Chablis expresses with a great deal of finesse the typicity of its Kimmeridgian soils, along with the singularity of Jean-Marc Brocard's wines through its strength, precision, and freshness.

From an early, yet classic vintage with superb quality, let's see how this 2020 Chablis is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

JEAN-MARC BROCARD SAINTE CLAIRE CHABLIS 2020 - AC, Burgundy, France (#356634) (XD) - $28.95
This single vineyard 100% Chardonnay is from 60-year-old vines grown on Kimmeridgian limestone soils and fermented with indigenous yeast. Intense, flinty mineral aromas off the top with notes of lemon citrus, apple, and butter laying underneath with melon and nutty hints, and a touch of reduction. It's medium-full bodied, well-structured, and creamy on the dry palate with lightly honeyed flavours of lemon citrus, mineral, apple-pear, and melon with nutty and mealy hints adding further complexity and interest. Acids are crisp and mouth-wateringly juicy. Excellent length with mineral, nut, and mealy notes lingering on the crisp, juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

A Chablis 1er Cru from Jean-Marc Brocard also arrived at the LCBO in this release, while other wines from their portfolio can be found at the LCBO or ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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