Casal di Serra Vecchie Vigne Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore 2022 (Marche) - Wine Review

After taking some time away to deal with a personal family matter, tonight's white wine review is an exceptional Old Vines Verdicchio from the Castelli di Jesi DOC in Marche that arrived at the LCBO last month in the September 13 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Umani Ronchi, a family winery that was established by Gino Umani Ronchi in 1957 after he set up a small farm within the comune of Cupramontana, in the heart of Verdicchio Classico country in Le Marche. The history of Umani Ronchi is one of people, vineyards, terroirs, and values. In 1968, the property was acquired by Roberto Bianchi and his son-in-law Massimo Bernetti, and it was reconstituted as a wine estate. Massimo oversaw the winery and focused his efforts on expanding market share abroad, increasing production through the addition of Rosso Conero wines, and increasing the area under vines. Over time, Umani Ronchi would extend to over 200 hectares of vines between Le Marche and Abruzzo.

In the early 1990s, Massimo Bernetti was joined by his son Michele, who had recently graduated in economics and business, and completed an internship in London where he worked in the sales department of Umani Ronchi's UK distributor. It was at this time that Massimo decided to further probe advanced cultivation and winemaking techniques, thanks in part to collaborations with experts from major university study centres.

Michele joined Umani Ronchi with his sights set beyond regional borders and decided to partner with Giacomo Tachis, the skilled winemaker known for celebrated wines such as Solaia and Sassicaia. This collaboration resulted in the study of international varieties and how to integrate them into the local territory, and eventually led to an award-winning wine that brought Umani Ronchi into the national and international spotlight. Michele and the technical team are constantly fine-tuning their wines with the goal of crafting wines of uncompromising quality and the ability to stand out. In 2009, this Vecchie Vigne Verdicchio won Gambero Rosso's award for White of the Year. For 20 years, Umani Ronchi has also been a member of the Istituto del Vino di Qualità – Grandi Marchi, an organization that brings together 18 of Italy's most important wine families.

Today, Umani Ronchi is a true international brand and a symbol of Italian excellence. The people behind Umani Ronchi — the human capital — are an asset whose value is inestimable and without which businesses couldn't build their present and future. They promote human well-being and protecting the environment, while innovation, improving production processes, training and skill development are distinctive features of their work culture and identity.

Umani Ronchi's philosophy for sustainability is based on green viticulture. They have a strong ethical approach with deep respect for the environment and its biodiversity, and is manifested through precision viticulture, vineyard management and the use of organic fertilizers. Umani Ronchi embraces sustainability in their choice of materials by using low-impact packaging and light glass bottles to reduce Carbon Dioxide emissions, as well as synthetic corks produced from sugar cane, which are 100% recyclable. They also use photovoltaic energy for about half of the winery's annual needs to conserve energy, and reuse the water from the cellar for irrigation. Their thinking and actions are based on ecological and sustainable values.

It is crafted with 100% Verdicchio, from 4 hectares of vines that were planted in the early 1970s in the heart of Verdicchio country, on the left bank of the Esino river. The vineyard is situated at about 250–300 metres above sea level, on an east-facing hillside, where the soil is very deep and fairly fresh, with clay loam composition, conditions which are ideal for Verdicchio vines. The vines were trained using the Double Guyot (arched canes) system. The grapes were hand-harvested and collected in boxes from the end of September to the first ten days of October. After lightly pressing the grapes, the prime must was rapidly cooled and then goes through static decantation. It was fermented in steel tanks over 10–15 days at a controlled temperature between 16°C and 18°C, and did not undergo malolactic fermentation in order to preserve freshness and acidity. The wine was aged for about 10 months in contact with its lees in concrete tanks, followed by a further 6 months in bottle prior to release.

The 2022 growing season in Marche was marked by drought and extreme heat in the vineyards. However, it was the above average rainfall in September that brought the drought index back to normal levels and turned the season into an almost cool one. From a good vintage that was beyond all expectations, let's see how this 2023 Vecchie Vigne Verdicchio from Marche is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CASAL DI SERRA VECCHIE VIGNE VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO SUPERIORE 2022 - DOC, Marche, Italy (#98111) (XD) - $27.95
Elegant and refined, the medium-high intensity nose offers a lovely mix of white citrus, lime, stony mineral, pear-apple, and almond aromas with herbally accents. It's medium+ bodied and dry with lovely structure and clean acidity that supports the strony mineral driven palate. Citrus, lime, pear-apple flavours are joined by touches of chamomile and spice to add further complexity and intrigue. Juicy, well-structured, and finely textured on the mid-palate. Citrus, lime, and chamomile notes give way to an exceptionally long, stony mineral finish. Ideal with seafood, but will also pair well with poultry, pasta, and vegetarian fare. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Many other lovely wines by Umani Ronchi can be found at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.