Jean-Max Roger Cuvée La Grange Dîmière Sancerre Rouge 2017 (Loire) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Pinot Noir from Sancerre that arrived at the LCBO last weekend. It was featured as part of the theme on wines from France's top wine regions in the February 18th LCBO VINTAGES Release and is available online at lcbo.com and at Flagship Exclusive locations in Ontario.

It is produced by Jean-Max Roger, one of my favourite Loire wine producers. Jean-Max Roger is a family-owned winery that descends from a long line of winegrowers from the village of Bué, in the Sancerre appellation, dating back to the early 17th century. In the early 1970's, Jean-Max Roger took over the 4 hectares of vineyards from his parents and, with his wife Nicole, focused on developing the vineyards to become one of the top estates in Sancerre today. The Rogers family passion was transferred to their sons with Etienne and Thibault joining the family estate in 2004, while their third son, Xavier, has a passion for wine and works in the Languedoc-Roussillon region. Today, the estate covers 26 hectares in the Sancerre AOC, all located along the Loire River, and together they perpetuate the family know-how and techniques to continuously improve their wines vintage after vintage.

Pinot Noir from this region in France is a bit of a rarity here in Ontario, and this particular wine seems to show up at the LCBO once every 2-3 years. I've had the pleasure of tasting previous vintages this lovely Pinot on a couple of occasions, including most recently the 2015 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée La Grange Dîmière Sancerre Rouge back in July 2020. It's name "La Grange Dîmière" refers to one of Bué's ancient tithe barns. The ancestors of Jean-Max Roger used this barn for making their wine and today it remains the oldest part of the winery.

This Sancerre Rouge is crafted with 100% Pinot Noir that was grown in various vineyards within the villages of Bué, Sancerre, and Amigny, on limestone soils called Caillottes and Terres Blanches, which are also known as Kimmeridgian marls. The vines average between 25 to 40 years old and have southwestern and southeastern exposure to the sun. Across each vineyard, the grapes were grown to reveal its terroir while revitalizing and respecting soil life. The grapes were hand-harvested, sorted, de-stemmed, and crushed, and after a few days of cold maceration it was fermented using natural yeasts. Approximately 30% of the wine was aged for 10-12 months in 400 L barrels, and the wine was aged in bottle for at least another 6 months prior to release.

From a somewhat difficult start to the growing season in 2017 that began with frosts, the fortunes turned and became picture-perfect throughout summer and allowed the grapes to full ripen. Overall, the 2017 vintage in Loire is a good one, with especially high-quality in Sancerre. Let's see how this 2017 Sancerre Rouge is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE LA GRANGE DÎMIÈRE SANCERRE ROUGE 2017 - AC, Loire, France (#539858) (XD) - $33.95
100% Pinot Noir. The medium-high intensity nose has ripe, maturing, and slightly stewed strawberry, red berry, raspberry, and cranberry aromas surrounded by enticing savoury mineral, earthy, and spice notes. It's light-to-mid weighted on the dry palate with delicious strawberry-cran-cherry, raspberry, and spice flavours layered over mineral and savoury earth notes. It has very good acidity and supple, well-structured tannins and a light grip on the mid-palate. I really like the long, elegant, stony mineral and raspberry flavoured finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Only small quantities of other wines from the Jean-Max Roger portfolio are available at the LCBO, but they can also be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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February 18, 2023 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: France

Here's my top wine picks from the February 18, 2023 LCBO VINTAGES Release. The theme of this release looks at wines from the top 10 wine regions in France. Also included in this release are the monthly selection of Online & Flagship Exclusives (FE) - wines that are available only online at lcbo.com and at flagship outlets. All of the wines should be available for purchase starting this Saturday.

We start with the theme on wines from 10 of France's wine regions, although noticeably absent from this list is Northern Rhône and Provence. In a new twist on the theme, the LCBO has included all of the French Online & Flagship Exclusives wines as part of the theme, bringing the total number of wines in the theme to eighteen, of which four are included among my top wine picks. We begin in the Southern Rhône Cru of Châteauneuf-du-Pape with a red wine crafted with 70% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, and 10% Syrah. From Languedoc, this consistently delicious red is made with approx. 50% Syrah and the rest Grenache and Mourvèdre. Lastly, from Loire the Sancerre Rouge is crafted with Pinot Noir, while the Sancerre Blanc is made with Sauvignon Blanc.

Red wine picks from the rest of the release starts with a red blend from Washington that consists of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 9% Syrah, 6% Cabernet Franc, 3% Malbec, and 1% Petit Verdot, as well as the Super Tuscan by Gaja that is a blend of 55% Merlot, 35% Syrah, and 10% Sangiovese. Also from Tuscany, the Zingari Super Tuscan is a blend of Syrah, Merlot, Sangiovese, and Petit Verdot, while the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is crafted with 90-95% Sangiovese. Both wines from Veneto are blends, with the Amarone consisting of 59% Corvina, 21% Corvinone, 17% Rondinella, and 3% other permitted varieties, while the Ripasso is composed of 55% Corvina, 25% Corvinone, and 20% Rondinella. The only other blend is from Argentina and it is in fact a blend of 90% Cabernet Franc and 10% Malbec. Single varietal red wines include a lovely Tempranillo from Spain, as well aa a Pinot Noir from Niagara.

Among my white wine recommendations, all are single varietal wines. In addition to the Sancerre mentioned above, there are also a pair of Sauvignon Blanc wines from New Zealand and Niagara. Other white wines include a Chardonnay from South Africa, a Moschofilero from Greece, and a Garganega from Veneto.

Enjoy my top wine recommendations from this release! Salud!

Red Wine:

• ZINGARI 2019 - IGT Toscana, Italy (#244228) (XD) - $19.95  89 pts  wine review
• CAVE DE ROQUEBRUN LA GRANGE DES COMBES SAINT-CHINIAN-ROQUEBRUN 2020 - AC, Languedoc, France (#155804) (XD) - $19.95
• TRIUS DISTINCTION CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 - VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (#25366) (XD) - $19.95
• ERRÁZURIZ ACONCAGUA ALTO CARMENÈRE 2020 - Vegan, DO Valle de Aconcagua, Chile (#546424) (XD) - $21.95
• OAK BAY PINOT NOIR 2020 - BC VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada (#267146) (XD) - $21.95
• BRIGALDARA VALPOLICELLA RIPASSO SUPERIORE 2019 - Sustainable, DOC, Veneto, Italy (#16090) (XD) - $22.95
• EL ENEMIGO CABERNET FRANC 2018 - Mendoza, Argentina (#11813) (XD) - $26.95

 

• LEALTANZA GRAN RESERVA 2015 - Vegan, DOCa Rioja, Spain (#453548) (XD) - $30.95  92 pts  wine review
• JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE LA GRANGE DÎMIÈRE SANCERRE ROUGE 2017 - AC, Loire, France (#539858) (XD) - $33.95  FE  91 pts  wine review
• POLIZIANO VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO 2018 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#988055) (XD) - $34.95  92+ pts  wine review
• QUEENSTON MILE PINOT NOIR 2017 - Estate bottled, VQA St. David's Bench, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (#10138) (XD) - $40.00  FE  93 pts  wine review
• BRIGALDARA CAVOLO AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA 2016 - Sustainable, DOCG, Veneto, Italy (#568766) (D) - $49.95
• HEDGES FAMILY ESTATE RED 2020 - Unfined, vegan, Red Mountain, Yakima Valley, Washington, USA (#1594) (XD) - $49.95  FE
• CHÂTEAU GIGOGNAN CLOS DU ROI CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2017 - AC, Rhône, France (#20937) (XD) - $54.95
• GAJA CA'MARCANDA PROMIS 2020 - IGP Toscana, Italy (#174334) (XD) - $65.95

White Wine:

• CATHEDRAL CELLAR CHARDONNAY 2021 - WO Western Cape, South Africa (#328559) (XD) - $17.95
• TSELEPOS MOSCHOFILERO 2021 - PDO Mantinia, Greece (#724583) (XD) - $17.95
• TRIUS DISTINCTION SAUVIGNON BLANC 2020 - VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada (#19379) (XD) - $19.95
• I CAMPI CAMPO BASE 2021 - Vegan, DOC Soave, Veneto, Italy (#27620) (XD) - $22.95
• JOSEPH MELLOT LA CHATELLENIE SANCERRE 2021 - AC, Loire, France (#525154) (XD) - $31.95
• VILLA MARIA SOUTHERN CLAYS SINGLE VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021 - Sustainable, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#447474) (XD) - $34.95

Dessert Wine:

• ANSELMANN ORTEGA BEERENAUSLESE 2020 - Prädikatswein, Pfalz, Germany (#30597) (S) (375 mL) - $19.95

Fortified:

• WARRE'S QUINTA DA CAVADINHA VINTAGE PORT 2006 - DOP, Portugal (#189605) (S) - $59.95

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Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret Petit Chablis 2020 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely Chardonnay from Burgundy that newly landed at the LCBO as part of last weekend's LCBO VINTAGES Release on January 21.

It is produced by Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret, a small family-owned estate whose history inscribed in vine cultivation and winemaking dating back to 1713. It all began in the early 18th century with Jean Vocoret, whose winemaking soul no doubt guided him to pass down his wisdom, his fruits, his passion, and the nobility of winemaking to his descendants,

The Domaine's more recent history of winemaking in Chablis begins with Victor Hyppolite Vocoret, the great, great grandfather of Yvon Vocoret. Born in 1863, Victor had a few acres of vineyards and some leaflets in the cellar. Henri Vocoret, born in 1895, and alongside his wife Louise were the grandparents of Yvon and they managed to make the land prosper with the help of their horses, and were very proud to produce excellent wine.

The fourth generation of the family to own the estate were Yvon's parents, Maurice (1928-1997) and Huguette (1933), who carefully reflected upon the art of winemaking and invested in high performance equipment for the cellar. Maurice and Huguette knew how to anticipate and plan so that the quality of their wines would be recognized.

Today, the Domaine is led by Yvon, the 5th generation of the family, and his son, Yvon, the 6th generation, together with Huguette, as they uphold the family motto - quality, dignity, and respect - and continue to write the story of a humble, but determined family of winegrowers who craft wines that bring pleasure. Since 1974, the Vocoret family has been farming the vineyards organically to respect and protect their vines and soils, as well as the environment. They have also been using organic soil materials which forces the soil to do its own work in order to transform the organic materials to minerals, so that the vine can feed itself and grow fruit in a natural, sustainable way and guarantee a quality vintage, year after year. The wines of Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret represent the essence of their exceptional terroir.

This Petit Chablis is crafted with 100% Chardonnay that was sourced from various plots covering 4 hectares of land throughout the appellation of Petit Chablis. The vines average 30 years of age and were planted on Portlandian Barrois clay-limestone and limestone marl soils which also feature red pebbles and a reddish-brown colour. Each plot of grapes were harvested at maturity and either manually or mechanically. It underwent a light static settling to retain the fine lees so that the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations can take place naturally. And finally, each plot was aged for approximately 9 months in stainless steel vats to preserve its fresh characteristics and allow plot to express itself prior to creating the final blend.

The 2020 growing season was warm and dry, yielding grapes with exceptional freshness and purity. The white wines of Burgundy classically styled, balanced, and consistently of a very high quality. As the 2020 vintage is such a fine vintage across the board, let's see how this 2020 Petit Chablis is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE YVON & LAURENT VOCORET PETIT CHABLIS 2020 - AC, Burgundy, France (#26446) (XD) - $27.95
This lovely Chardonnay has an elegant, medium-high intensity nose offering a lovely mix of ripe lemon, citrus, mineral oil, nutty, lactic, green apple, and white peach aromas. It is impressively weighted and quite structured on the medium-full bodied palate with lactic, mineral, lemon citrus, and green apple flavours supported by juicy, well-balanced acidity. Lemon citrus, apple, and white peach taper to leesy mineral notes on the long, crisp finish. Enjoyable now, but will be even better in a year or two. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

There is a Chablis 1er Cru available at the LCBO, while other lovely wines from their portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.

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LAVAU Rasteau 2019 (Rhône) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Rhône red wine from the southern Rhône Valley Cru of Rasteau that arrived at the LCBO this weekend in the January 21 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Maison LAVAU was founded in 1965 after the Lavau family, who had been involved in winemaking for several generations, took charge of a small winemaking cellar a year earlier in Sablet, in the southern Rhône Valley. It was established by Jean-Guy Lavau, the third generation of the family, and his wife Anne-Marie as they returned to France from Tunisia. Together, Jean-Guy and Anne-Marie Lavau built a reputation as top quality winemakers in the region thanks to their dedication to high standards, attention to detail, and thirst for excellence. Recognized as a major local player, Maison LAVAU developed close ties to with other winegrowers, especially in the southern Rhône Valley.

Today, Maison LAVAU is run by their two sons - Frédéric and Benoît Lavau. After completing their studies in Canada, Frédéric joined the family business in 1995, and Benoît quickly followed in 1997. The Lavau brothers official took charge of the Maison in 2000 when their parents retired. Their youth, energy and adventurous spirit allowed them to further structure and develop the Maison, including building a new cellar in Violès, and investing in modern, high-performance cellar facilities. As talented winemakers and wine traders, the Lavau brothers also invested in vineyards to also become producers of wine. Maison LAVAU is today one of the last family-run and independent wine estates in the Rhône Valley. Their objective is to offer the very best of the Rhône Valley by producing top quality wines that are fine, generous, and affordable.

Like previous vintages, including the 2017 LAVAU Rasteau that I enjoyed a couple of years ago, this southern Rhône Valley red continues to be a blend of 50% Grenache and 50% Syrah. The village of Rasteau is situated on the summit of a hill at an altitude of 200 metres. The grapes for this wine come from parcels located near the village, on east-facing, stony hillsides that have a Mediterranean climate and offer some protection from the Mistral wind. The vineyards are planted on fairly deep, fairly dry, and pebbly terrain, which results in low yields and late ripening grapes.

It was vinified by completely de-stemming the grapes and placing them in temperature-controlled vats to macerate for around 25 days with rack-and-return operations at the start of fermentation, followed by two pumping-over operations per day. The wine was then aged in barrels for 12 months, with half going into 450 L second- or third-use barrels.

The 2019 growing season began with a wet winter setting the table for the region's vineyards to get through the hot, dry growing season. Grenache, in particular, excelled this vintage as it coped well with the severely hot weather and cooler nights that helped it retain acidity and aromas. Overall, the excellent 2019 vintage is a powerful, ripe vintage with localized areas of greatness. Let's see how this 2019 southern Rhône Valley red from Rasteau is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LAVAU RASTEAU 2019 - AC, Rhône, France (#394650) (XD) - $23.95
Blend of 50% Grenache and 50% Syrah. The fragrant nose of medium-high intensity delivers lovely, perfumed aromas of dark berry, black cherry, black plum, peppery spice, and meaty notes with subtle whiffs of violet, floral, and oak. It's medium-full bodied with ripe, dark fruited flavours of black cherry, black plum, cassis, peppery spice, violet, meaty, and subtle wood. It's slightly spicy on the mid-palate and has fresh, lively acidity, along with smooth, ripe, refined, and lightly chewy and well-structured tannins. Lovely smoky mineral notes linger on the long-lasting, juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Limited quantities of one other Maison LAVAU wine is available at the LCBO, while the rest of their portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Closerie des Alisiers Trilogie de Terroirs Pouilly-Fuissé 2020 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is an excellent Chardonnay from Burgundy that is new to the LCBO, arriving in stores this weekend as part of the LCBO VINTAGES Release on December 17.

It is produced by Stéphane Brocard, son of renowned Chablis winemaker Jean-Marc Brocard. After it started getting a bit too crowded at his father's family business, Stéphane set out on his own in 2007 and moved to Marsannay, founding his Trading House and the Closerie des Alisiers property in Chablis. In addition to owning his own vines in Pommard and the village of Daix, Stéphane set up a boutique négociant business contracting small parcels of carefully selected grapes because he had an intimate knowledge of the region, as well as the drive to blaze his own trail. He works with the same winegrowers and plots year after year to offer authentic wines based on purity of fruit and freshness, while also having the greatest respect for the terroir and environment. He encourages his vignerons to use organic farming methods and champions minimal intervention at all stages of production. Between Closerie des Alisiers and the wines of their partner estates, Maison Stéphane Brocard covers all of the appellations and diversity of Burgundy.

Crafted with 100% Chardonnay, this particular wine is called Trilogy of Terroirs because the grapes come from the three same selected plots, year after year, in the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation of the Mâconnais subregion in Burgundy. Grown within the communes of Solutré and Vergisson, the 70-year-old vines are based on limestone soils with very hard fossil corals. The vineyards are situated on fairly steep slopes with exposure to the east and south-east, and between 200 to 300 metres above sea level. The vines are tended to in reasoned culture with the greatest respect for the soil and the environment.

The growing season in 2020 in Burgundy produced classic wines despite the hot and dry conditions, and the wines of the vintage can be characterized and fresh, vibrant, and classically styled. From an exceptional year, let's see how this 2020 white wine from Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CLOSERIE DES ALISIERS TRILOGIE DE TERROIRS POUILLY-FUISSÉ 2020 - AC, Burgundy, France (#26440) (XD) - $37.95
This 100% Chardonnay has a nose that seems a bit shy and tight, but with some coaxing offers ripe lemon citrus, mineral, apple, melon, and peach aromas with nutty notes emerging with time in the glass. It is beautifully structured on the medium to medium-full bodied on the nicely balanced palate with spicy apple, lemon citrus, melon flavours with a twist of honey. It has fresh and firm acidity, while mineral, nut, and mealy notes emerge on the long, juicy, and mouth-watering finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92+ pts

Other excellent wines by Maison Stéphane Brocard can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Jean-Marc Brocard Sainte Claire Chablis 2020 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a lovely Chardonnay that is coming to the LCBO this weekend as part of the December 17 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Jean-Marc Brocard, a family domaine that was established in 1973 in the center of Chablis, in Burgundy. Since the beginning, Jean-Marc Brocard was committed to a healthier culture and respectful of the environment. As one of the first organic wine producers in Chablis and Burgundy, in 1997 they converted their first plot of 11 hectares to organic and biodynamic farming. Today, the domaine covers 144 hectares with more than 60 hectares certified organic farming and 40 hectares biodynamic.

In 1995, Jean-Marc's son, Julien, joined the family domaine to work alongside his father. Julien is also passionate about biodynamics and traditional methods. Their logo is an ammonite - a life force, the spiral is naturally present in nature and is a symbol and creation and fulfillment, it also characterizes the Broacrd family's commitment to continuous improvement.

The unique style of Brocard wines are focuses around three words - precision, strength, and freshness. Precision involves accurately conveying the terroir, the memory of the soil transmitted from vine to wine, and the pure typical characteristics of the Chablis soil with its marine sediments deposited during the Jurassic era. Strength is conveyed in the structure of a wine that is powerful and long on the palate, while also appreciating the complexity of a terroir. Freshness is the a natural acidity that is born of the land's minerality, giving this wine its signature tautness.

One of quite a few Chablis wines in the Jean-Marc Brocard portfolio, this particular wine is from their Sainte Claire Vineyard which boasts Kimmeridgian limestone soils. It is crafted with 100% Chardonnay from 60-year-old vines and fermented with indigenous yeast. This Chablis expresses with a great deal of finesse the typicity of its Kimmeridgian soils, along with the singularity of Jean-Marc Brocard's wines through its strength, precision, and freshness.

From an early, yet classic vintage with superb quality, let's see how this 2020 Chablis is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

JEAN-MARC BROCARD SAINTE CLAIRE CHABLIS 2020 - AC, Burgundy, France (#356634) (XD) - $28.95
This single vineyard 100% Chardonnay is from 60-year-old vines grown on Kimmeridgian limestone soils and fermented with indigenous yeast. Intense, flinty mineral aromas off the top with notes of lemon citrus, apple, and butter laying underneath with melon and nutty hints, and a touch of reduction. It's medium-full bodied, well-structured, and creamy on the dry palate with lightly honeyed flavours of lemon citrus, mineral, apple-pear, and melon with nutty and mealy hints adding further complexity and interest. Acids are crisp and mouth-wateringly juicy. Excellent length with mineral, nut, and mealy notes lingering on the crisp, juicy finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

A Chablis 1er Cru from Jean-Marc Brocard also arrived at the LCBO in this release, while other wines from their portfolio can be found at the LCBO or ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Marnes et Caillottes Sancerre 2020 (Loire) - Wine Review

A perennial favourite, tonight's white wine review is this excellent Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre that came to the LCBO last weekend as part of the December 3 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Jean-Max Roger, a winemaking family that descends from a long line of winegrowers dating back to at least the 17th century in the village of Bué, in Sancerre of the Loire Valley. Up until the 1960s, the Roger practised mixed farming and animal rearing, but when Jean-Max Roger took over in the 1970s from what his parents left him, he (along with his wife Nicole) focused on the 4 hectares of vineyards they had and developed the estate to become one of the top producers in the Loire. They passed on their love for wine and terroir to their sons, and in 2004 Thibault and Etienne, two of their three sons, joined their father at the estate.

Today, Thibault and Etienne continue to define the estate's identity, which is comprised of 34 hectares of land, of which 28 hectares are in the Sancerre appellation. There are more than forty plots of land which offer exceptional diversity of exposure, slope and soil profiles, and are dispersed among the region's three most renowned terroirs - Caillottes (stony calcareous clay soil), Kimmeridgian Marl or Terres Blanches (clayey calcareous clay soil), and Flint (siliceous clay soil). As a complementary team, Thibault and Etienne perpetuate the family know-how and techniques that they are perfecting vintage after vintage. Along with their winemaking expertise, the various terroirs allows each of their wines to express all of the uniqueness of their terroirs through their structure, elegance and finesse.

This Sancerre is crafted with 100% Sauvignon Blanc that was grown in various vineyards within the villages of Bué & Amigny, with soils consisting of Kimmeridgian Marls called "Marnes" and Limestone called "Caillottes", hence the name of the wine. The vines are between 5 and 40 years of age and grown to reveal its terroir, while also using organic techniques and respecting soil life. In the winery, the grapes go through a pneumatic press and a long, temperature-controlled fermentation using natural yeasts. The wine is aged on heavy lees to develop minerality, and fined and filtered prior to bottling at the estate using their own facilities.

I enjoyed the 2019 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Marnes et Caillottes Sancerre in August of last year and am excited to try the latest vintage. The winter leading up to the 2020 growing season was the warmest ever recorded the Loire Valley, but also featured periods of intense rains that fully replenished the soils. March and April were alternately warm and cool, while late-April and May were very warm. July began cool, but then turned very warm, while August was hot. Harvest began after some welcome rains at the end of August, leading into fine weather for the month of September. The 2020 vintage was another excellent vintage in the Loire Valley with wines showing excellent concentration, freshness, and poise.

This white wine is quite possibly my favourite wine in the Jean-Max Roger portfolio. Let's see how this 2020 Sancerre is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE MARNES ET CAILLOTTES SANCERRE 2020 - AC, Loire, France (#196667) (XD) - $33.95
Lovely, intense, and ripe aromas of lemon citrus, melon, and grapefruit with touches of tropical fruit, all underpinned by fine, stony minerality. It has very good fruit concentration on the medium-full bodied palate with ripe, slightly honeyed and gently spicy flavours of lemon citrus, melon, grapefruit, apple, peach, and tropical fruits framed by fresh and elegant acidity. Nicely balanced throughout with fine, leesy mineral notes lingering on the long, crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Both the Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Les Caillottes Sancerre 2019 and Cuvée Genèse Sancerre 2020 that I enjoyed recently are available at the LCBO, while other wines from Jean-Max Roger can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Le Fils des Gras Moutons Sur Lie Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine 2021 (Loire) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a lovely, organic white wine from the Loire Velley in France that arrived at the LCBO over the weekend as part of the December 3 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Claude Branger at Domaine Haute Févrie in the heart of the Muscadet Sèvre et Maine appellation in the Loire Valley. The Domaine was founded 18 km southeast of Nantes during the First World War by Claude's grandfather. For many years, Claude worked alongside his father for many years, and in 2007 he was joined by his son Sébastien to become the fourth generation of the family to carefully tend the estate's vines which are situated on hills overlooking the Sèvre River, ‎between the communes of Saint-Fiacre and Monnières. As conscientious winegrowers, the Branger family harvests all of their grapes by hand, and starting in 2016, Sébastien embarked on a vision to convert all of their vineyards to organic farming. By 2019, all of the domain's parcels were fully certified organic.

I've enjoyed this consistently delicious wine many times over the years, including most recently the 2019 Le Fils des Gras Moutons Sur Lie Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine last year in July. Certified organic, this white wine is crafted with the Melon de Bourgogne varietal from 10 hectares of vines averaging 40+ years old that were grown in the earlier maturing plots of the Les Gras Moutons vineyard. The vines are planted on soils that sit on a granite bedrock that is metamorphic gneiss full of mica and quartz. The grapes were hand-picked and after fermentation rested on its lees for 6-7 months prior to bottling.

2021 was a tricky growing season in the Loire with difficult weather and yields down significantly. However, the resulting wines were surprisingly good with the cool growing season naturally favouring aromatic varietals which preserved their elegant structures and clean, crisp acidity. Let's see how this 2021 Muscadet is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LE FILS DES GRAS MOUTONS SUR LIE MUSCADET SÈVRE-ET-MAINE 2021 - AC, Loire, France (#363150) (XD) - $17.95
This lovely organic wine crafted with 100% Melon de Bourgogne has a crisp, elegant, and focused medium-high intensity nose with appealing aromas of lemon-lime citrus, orchard fruit, apple, and mineral with hints of melon and peach adding further complexity. There's good weight on the dry, medium+ bodied palate that is slightly honeyed with ripe apple, lemon-lime peel citrus, saline mineral, and subtle spice flavours, plus orange and melon notes. There's a subtle chalky mouthfeel on the mid-palate, along with clean, crisp, and juicy acidity. Minerally with citrus and apple notes lingering on the long, juicy, and dry finish. Ideal with oysters. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

You can find other lovely wines by Domaine Haute Févrie through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Château Coufran 2009 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is an excellent, maturing red wine from Bordeaux that is featured on the cover of today's December 3 LCBO VINTAGES Release. This wine is also part of the theme of the release which is titled "Gifts to Celebrate: Festive, Food-Friendly Wines" and would make a fine gift for the holidays.

The story of Château Coufran begins with 18th century archives that referred to it as the noble house of "Cousran", as well as the dovecote that dates back even further to the Ancien Régime. The Château has changed families many times over the years. One of the notable exchanges occurred after the revolution, when Jean-Valère Cabarrus, a ship-owner and wine merchant who already owned other prestigious wine estates, acquired Château Couffran. At the end of the 19th century, the Château changed families again when the Célérier family, wine merchants in Bordeaux, took advantage of the success of Bordeaux wines and invested in the Médoc wine region and purchased Couffran.

In 1924, Louis Miailhe acquired the Château and decided on the current spelling of "Coufran". Louis undertook major redevelopment work in the vineyard, including planting mainly Merlot, which was more charming and highly appreciated at the time. The Miailhe family were wine brokers in France dating back to the 19th century and continued to 1970. Winemaking was also in the family with Louis' son, Jean, the winemaker at Coufran for a period of time. Since the 1980's, Jean's two children - Marie Cécile Vicaire and Eric Miailhe - have taken over. The wines of Coufran are atypical for the Médoc region, with a journalist once calling Coufran the "Pomerol of Médoc" due to their Merlot-based wines.

Château Coufran is located in the Haut-Médoc appellation in Saint-Seurin-de-Cadourne, a town just north of neighbouring Saint-Estèphe in the Pauillac area. Although the Château is located on the Left Bank of Bordeaux, where wines are usually blends of predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, this red wine is crafted with 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, with vines averaging 45-years-old. Château Coufran is a single 76-hectare block that stretches across a hillside, with its highest point at 21 metres elevation, and the soils are primarily made up of gravel and clay.

In the vineyard, vegetation cover is encouraged between rows, and the leaves are thinned after flowering. Grape bunches are also thinned, allowing the fruit to ripen in the best possible conditions. Harvest is carried out selectively, starting with Merlot, and then moving on to Cabernet. The grapes are also sorted based on quality and according to the terroir and vine age. It was vinified using traditional Bordeaux techniques, in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. The wine was matured in French oak barrels for 12 months, with a quarter of the barrels replaced with new barrels each year. After bottling, the wine is stored on-site in an air-conditioned room to optimise the ageing process, allowing them to release the ready-to-drink wines. From the legendary 2009 vintage, let's see how this Bordeaux red wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU COUFRAN 2009 - AC Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux, France (#13399) (XD) - $37.95
Blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon from vines averaging 45-years-old. Lovely, complex, elegant, and very attractive nose has medium-high intensity aromatics of crushed and stewed dark berry, black cherry, sweet spices, wet earth, olive, and sandalwood. It's medium-full to full-bodied with complex and maturing flavours of dark berry, black cherry, sweet spices, earth, currant, and cassis on the palate. Acids are still quite juicy and refreshing. Some dried cherry and floral notes on the mid-palate add further interest. Maturing tannins are structured, refined, and somewhat grippy-chalky, with a pleasing mouthfeel. Earthy with black cherry, olive, and sweet spice notes linger on the long, satisfying finish. In a nice place right now and should continue to drink well over the next 5 years, maybe longer. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92+ pts

Other lovely wines by Château Coufran can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Xavier Vignon Côtes du Rhône 2020 (France) - Wine Review (Nov. 2022)

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely, organic red wine from Rhône that returned to LCBO VINTAGES shelves across Ontario just over a week ago as part of the recent November 19th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Xavier Vignon, a man who started out as an consultant oenologist in 1996 in a laboratory in Vaucluse in the Southern Rhône Valley for 30+ cellars, and three years later started crafted artisanal cuvees from his garage for his friends. After one of his friends secretly took his wines and submitted them to Guide Hachette where they received critical acclaim, Xavier started crafted his own wines under the Xavier Vins label. Today, with two fundamental values of a job well done and the capacity to transmit knowledge, Xavier bottles wines under his own name. He is known as a Terroir Hunter and Master Blender, while also having respect for the environment. The wines of Xavier Vignon are the result of a scientific background, great deal of experience, confidence in others, total involvement, exchange of knowledge, and shared pleasure.

I first enjoyed this organic 2020 Xavier Vignon Côtes du Rhône six month ago when it showed up in VINTAGES in last spring. It is a blend of primarily Grenache from 80-year-old vines, plus Syrah from 45-year-old vines, and Mourvèdre from 60-year-old vines, all grown on Galets roulés (rolled pebbles), sands, clay, and limestone soils located mostly in the northern part of the Vaucluse and altitude parcels. The grapes were manually harvested, fermented at moderate temperatures, and aged in concrete tanks for a short period of time.

The 2020 vintage benefitted from a good amount of rain in late-autumn and the early winter of 2019, providing very good water stores that would help the vines stay hydrated later in the year. The mild and dry winter meant that flowering and bud break took place early, while the dry and hot summer resulted in a long ripening season with vines drawing water from their winter reserves. During the 2020 growing season, there were no sever heat spikes and night-time temperatures were much cooler, thus allowing the grapes to gently and gradually ripen. The Southern Rhône also benefitted from cool winds which refreshed the vines during the summer heat. Conditions were splendid during harvest as the pristine grapes were picked in warm, dry conditions. Wines from the 2020 Southern Rhône Valley are described as well-balanced with finesse and elegance. Let's see how this 2020 organic Côtes du Rhône tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

XAVIER VIGNON CÔTES DU RHÔNE 2020 - AP, France (#297317) (XD) - $17.95
Aged in concrete, this is primarily Grenache with Syrah and Mourvèdre in support. Lovely, elegant, and fragrant mix that is spicy and savoury, joined by ripe dark red cherry, raspberry, and red plum aromas, plus hints of white pepper spice and meaty notes. It's medium-full bodied with good concentration on the crunchy palate with spicy flavours of ripe dark red cherry, raspberry, and red plum that tapers to savoury, earthy, and meaty flavours. Saliva-inducing fresh and juicy acids. Supple, lightly grippy tannins. Nicely balanced throughout with lovely dark red cherry, raspberry, and mineral notes lingering on the long, juicy finish. Highly recommended buy to enjoy over the next 3-5 years. Score: 89 pts

You can find other lovely wines by Xavier Vignon at the LCBO and through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Château Guillou 2018 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

I enjoyed the 2016 Château Guillou when it came through VINTAGES in spring of last year, and for tonight's red wine review I bring you the latest vintage that arrived at the LCBO this weekend as part of the November 19th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Famille Saby, a winegrowing family that are considered specialists on wines from the Right Bank of Bordeaux. The Saby family have been oenologists from father to son for nine generations dating back to the 18th century and are led today by Jean-Bernard Saby and his two sons, Jean-Christophe and Jean-Philippe. The Saby family owns and operates several estates on the Right Bank, including the Château Guillou vineyard which has existed in its current form since 1870. There are 62 hectares of vines at Château Guillou and most are located on a plateau with clay-limestone soils, and hillsides with clayey-silty soils.

I first tasted this wine seven years ago, starting with the 2012 vintage and the quality has improved with each passing vintage. Like the 2012, this vintage is also crafted with 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc from fruit grown at Château Guillou in the Montagne-Saint-Emilion appellation, which is situated in the Libourne subregion on the right bank of the Dordogne, on siliceous soils which are sandy and gravelly. The fruit was traditionally hand-picked and sorted on tables, followed by cold-maceration, temperature-controlled alcoholic fermentation, and malolactic fermentation. The wine was aged in a combination of new and third-use American and French oak barrels.

From an excellent 2018 growing season in Bordeaux with dry conditions and cool nights, let's see how this 2018 red wine from Bordeaux is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU GUILLOU 2018 - AC Montagne-Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux, France (#140483) (XD) - $24.95
This blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc has a fragrant, elegant, and well-balanced nose that is highly aromatic with lovely dark berry, black cherry, blackberry, and currant with touches of floral violet, chocolate, herbs, and subtle spices. It's medium-full bodied on the ripe palate with delicious dark berry, currant, black cherry, and blackberry replays joined by plummy notes. Acids are fresh and juicy, while the smooth, refined tannins have a slightly chalky textured mouthfeel towards the back palate. Finishes juicy, long and savoury with stony mineral and subtle oak spice notes on the long aftertaste. Really nicely balanced. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 5+ years. Score: 91 pts

Other lovely wines by Famille Saby can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Château de Tréviac Corbières 2019 (Languedoc) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is this lovely unoaked red from the Corbières appellation in Languedoc that arrived at the LCBO this weekend as part of the October 8th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Château Tréviac is located in the heart of the Corbières Massif, halfway between the cities of Carcassonne and Narbonne, in the Occitan region in the South of France. The name refers to three old roads: the « Trois Voies » junction (TRI-VIA), where traces of former constructions and burial sites still remain today. The family estate was established in the early 20th Century by the current owner's great grandfather, Fernand. After World War I, Fernand settled in the village of Talairan because he was convinced that such a wild and untapped terroir was full of potential. He built his house on an old priory and cleared the hillsides in order to build the vineyard as it exists today.

Lucette and her husband Roger were the next generation of the family to own the estate. They owned a labour-horse and managed to remain independent and out of the Cooperative system. Their daughter Ginette and her husband André Sié then took over the journey. In 2000, their son Arnaud Sié took over the family estate after completing his studies in history. As a young and dynamic winegrower, Arnaud continues the family's great passion and dedication to manage his estate and craft his wines.

Today, Château Tréviac has 20 hectares of vineyards, 14 hectares of which are in the Corbières appellation. Since taking over, Arnaud has done extensive work in the vineyards and worked tirelessly to modernize the wine cellars. The vineyards are situated at an altitude between 200 to 350 metres above sea-level, surrounded by garrigue, and on very rocky limestone-clay soils that are ideal for Syrah and Grenache.

With low yields, this wine is composed of 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache that was hand-harvested. The grapes were crushed and pressed upon arrival at the cellar and underwent 4 to 5 weeks of maceration. In order to preserve freshness, the wine was aged completely in thermo-regulated concrete vats. After enjoying the 2017 Château de Tréviac Corbières in March of last year, let's see how this latest vintage is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU DE TRÉVIAC CORBIÈRES 2019 - AP, Languedoc, France (#670505) (XD) - $17.95
Blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache that was aged in thermo-regulated concrete vats. Gently smoky on the medium+ intensity nose that seems a bit shy with aromas of raspberry, black cherry, red plum, and spices. The medium to medium-full bodied is ripe with lovely black cherry, licorice, garrigue, raspberry, dark berry, and Damson plum flavours with smoky, scorched earth, spice, and meaty undertones adding complexity. Acids are fresh and juicy, while the ripe, supple tannins are smooth and refined. Raspberry, smoke, and scorched earth notes linger on the long, succulent finish. Very tasty and a highly recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines from Château de Tréviac and Arnaud Sié can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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M. Chapoutier Bila-Haut Côtes du Roussillon Blanc 2021 (Midi) - Wine Review

A perennial favourite of mine that seems to get better every vintage, tonight's white wine review is this lovely wine from Roussillon that arrived at the LCBO today as part of the September 24, 2022 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

M. Chapoutier is the legendary producer from Rhône whose origins go back to the year 1808. In 1990, the renowned Michel Chapoutier took over the reins of the family business. In 2000, he forayed into Roussillon when he purchased his first estate in the region. Michel set up Domaine de Bila-Haut in Latour-de-France, Roussillon, an area with an intense, forceful, and sometimes violent past with contoured terraces, stony soils, and a rich geology. Michel's children, Mathilde and Maxime,
have since joined the family business to form the next generation of the Chapoutier family to perpetuate the family's tradition and vision to craft biodynamic wines which express the full potential of its terroir and true character of the soils.

I enjoyed the 2020 M. Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Côtes du Roussillon Blanc last November, and while the 2021 growing season was a tough year across France where most regions experienced record rainfall, Roussillon suffered its most severe drought in the last 10 years. However, Chapoutier's use of biodynamic practices helped save the day! A cold winter led to later than normal budburst, while frost only affected a few of Chapoutier's plots on the plains and lower valleys - their Domaine is actually located in the upper reaches of the Agly Valley. Cool weather continued into late spring, and summer was not as hot as recent years, with no scorching hot days. This worked out well given the lack of water.

In Roussillon, the growing season runs counter to the rest of the winegrowing regions where the lack of water, combined with biodynamic growing practices, avoids any cryptogrammic pressure and they were able to bring in a perfectly healthy crop. When there is a lack of water, biodynamic compost, fermented forest litter help to invigorate the soil, and horn dung, allowed Chapoutier to produce an average harvest in terms of quantity, where much of Roussillon is recording the smallest harvest in its history. 2021 produced a later than average harvest due to some rain at the beginning of September. The grapes ripened during the second half of September, without excessive heat, and produced a very fine vintage.

This delicious white wine continues to be a blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, and Macabeu. The grapes come from two places - limestone, clay soils and gneiss in the Agly Valley, and granite soils at higher altitude (500 metre), later ripening sites. The grapes were manually harvested early in the morning to preserve freshness, and hand-selected to protect the aromas. At the winery, after pressing, the must is cold-settled. It underwent fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, followed by ageing for a few months (on its lees) in order to preserve freshness and enhance minerality. Let's see how this 2021 Côtes du Roussillon Blanc is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

M. CHAPOUTIER BILA-HAUT CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON BLANC 2021 - AP, Midi, France (#485656) (XD) - $16.95
Composed of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, and Macabeu. Elegant, yellow floral, herbs, waxy, and lemon pith aromas rise out of the glass with hints of grapefruit and smoke. It's medium-full bodied with a rich mouthfeel and ripe flavours of lemon citrus, grapefruit, yellow floral, orange, white peach, and herbs with melon and mineral undertones. Acids are fresh and lively. Some spiciness and a subtle chalky texture on the mid-palate. Nicely balanced with a satisfyingly long, crisp, minerally finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

You can get other lovely wines by M. Chapoutier at the LCBO and through their Agent - Dandurand.

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Château des Ferrages Mon Plaisir Sainte-Victoire Rosé 2021 (Provence) - Wine Review

After enjoying the excellent 2020 Château des Ferrages Mon Plaisir Sainte-Victoire Rosé in Spring of last year when it made its debut at the LCBO, tonight's dry rosé wine review is the latest vintage of this terrific wine that comes to the LCBO this weekend in the September 24, 2022 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Château des Ferrages, a domain cherry-picked by Mathilde Chapoutier Selection in 2016 that is located in the village of Pourcieux, halfway between Aix-en-Provence and Saint-Maximin, in the prime, lowland plots of the Sainte-Victoire appellation. Previously, Château des Ferrages was owned winemaker Jose Garcia. His family had been running the 30 hectare domain for three generations, making primarily rosé wines since 1980. Today, Château des Ferrages is in the hands of legendary Rhône wine estate Maison M. Chapoutier and produces wines using the principles of biodynamic farming.

This dry rosé is a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Rolle (aka Vermentino) that was grown on shallow, well-draining, clay-limestone soils with varying amounts of sand. The parcels of grapes come from the villages of Pourcieux and Pourrières, at the feet of Mount Aurélien and Mount Sainte-Victoire, where the climate is Mediterranean. Harvest was carried out at night to preserve freshness and aromas. At the winery, the grapes were direct-pressed and underwent stabulation on fine lees. After temperature-controlled fermentation, the wine was aged for a short period in stainless steel vats.

2021 was a tough vintage in Provence with frost, fire, and hail all coming in to play, and Grenache taking the hardest hit. Yields were down on average of 30% and the quality of wines will vary depending on how hard the winegrower was affected by the weather, along with the competence of the winemaker to handle this difficult vintage. Given the name behind this wine, I fully expect very good results. Let's see how this 2021 rosé from Provence is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU DES FERRAGES MON PLAISIR SAINTE-VICTOIRE ROSÉ 2021 - AC Côtes de Provence, France (#19834) (XD) - $24.95
Blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Rolle. The enticing, medium+ intensity nose offers a lovely, complex mix of grapefruit, melon, orange, white peach, citrus, honeysuckle, and herbal aromas with an underlying minerality. It's medium+ bodied on the dry, ripe palate with appealing grapefruit, floral, white peach, melon, and citrus flavours that taper to herbal and mineral on the juicy mid-palate. Nicely balanced throughout with fresh acidity. Leesy mineral notes linger on the long, crisp finish. Recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other lovely wines by Château des Ferrages can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Les Caillottes Sancerre 2019 and Cuvée Genèse Sancerre 2020 (Loire) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of perennially excellent white Sancerre wines crafted with Sauvignon Blanc from Loire that arrived at the LCBO recently as part of the September 10 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

These lovely wines are produced by Jean-Max Roger, one of my favourite producers from the Loire Valley. The Roger family descends from a long line of winegrowers from the village of Bué, with the first mention of the family name dating back to the 17th century. Up until the 1960s, the Roger family practiced mixed farming with animal rearing. In the 1970s, Jean-Max Roger took over the 4 hectares of vines from his parents left for him and together with his wife, Nicole, they focused on developing the vineyards and estate to make it the highly regarded producer it is today. In 2004, their sons, Thibault and Etienne, joined them at the estate. Today, Thibault and Etienne carry on their parents' passion for wine and terroir and define the estate's identity. The brothers complement each other, perpetuating their family's know-how and techniques to improve their wines with each passing vintage.

Both of these wines are crafted with 100% Sauvignon Blanc that was grown on Sancerre's famous limestone soils called "caillottes". The vineyards were managed to produce grapes that reveal its terroir, including the use of organic principles and working the deep soils to revitalize the soil life. Jean-Max Roger also uses Guyot Poussard pruning to have a better balance of stock, while also performing spring debudding to control yields. Weeds are controlled mechanically while also respecting soil life.

In the winery, Jean-Max Roger uses a similar vinification process for each wine. They start by using a pneumatic press with cold settlement for between 48 and 72 hours. The wines undergo a temperature-controlled, long fermentation using natural yeasts to develop aromatic complexity, followed by ageing on heavy lees to develop minerality. After fining and filtration to stabilize the aromas and wine, it is bottled at the estate and rests for a couple of months prior to release.

While these wines come from different vintages, both the 2019 and 2020 vintage are considered very good years for Sauvignon Blanc. Let's see how this Sauvignon Blanc wines from Sancerre are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE LES CAILLOTTES SANCERRE 2019 - AC, Loire, France (#65573) (XD) - $31.95
100% Sauvignon Blanc from vines ranging between 6 to 40 years of age that were grown in the villages of Bué, Amigny, and Sancerre. Clean, elegant, and fresh aromas of lemon citrus, white floral, and ripe orchard fruit with subtle herb, spiciness and leesy mineral aromas rising out of the glass. It's medium-full bodied with lovely aromas replays and fine, well-delineated acidity gliding across the palate. Elegant and drinking beautifully at this stage. Lightly spicy on the slightly chalky textured, juicy mid-palate. Lovely citrus and apple, along with a fine mineral streak lingers on the well-balanced finish, with excellent length. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92+ pts

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE GENÈSE SANCERRE 2020 - AC, Loire, France (#189126) (XD) - $32.95
This 100% Sauvignon Blanc was grown in ancestral plots exclusively in the village of Bué on caillottes soils, from vines between 10 to 40 years of age. Lovely, intense aromas of lemon/lime citrus, white floral, and spice layered over stony minerals with a hint of white peach. It has very good weight on the medium-full to full-bodied palate. Elegant citrus, white floral, and stony mineral flavour replays are lifted by fresh, juicy acidity. There's a nice, subtle chalky texture on the mid-palate, while citrus, leesy-stony mineral and floral notes linger on the very long, crisp, and balanced finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Other excellent wines by Jean-Max Roger are available through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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LAVAU Vacqueyras 2018 (Rhône) - Wine Review

For Rhône wine lovers (like me!), tonight's red wine review is this lovely Vacqueyras that arrived at the LCBO last weekend as part of the September 10 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Maison LAVAU, one of my favourite Southen Rhône producers. Maison LAVAU was founded in the Rhône Valley in 1964 by the Lavau family that had been involved in winemaking from Bordeaux to Tunisia for several generations. The Lavau family decided to settle in the Rhône Valley after being seduced by the richness and quality of the Provencal soils. Today, Lavau is a renowned and respected name in Rhône Valley winemaking with brothers Benoit and Frédéric Lavau at the helm of the family business. Over the years, the Lavau brothers have enhanced their expertise by becoming creators of cuvées and producers. Not only do they own wine estates covering more than 180 hectares of vines across the Rhône Valley, but they also have long-running partnerships with more than 350 growers so that Maison LAVAU is able to select the best terroir and grapes in order to craft top quality wines.

This red wine is crafted with 50% Grenache Noir, 40% Syrah, and 10% Mourvèdre, all grown in plots on the plain of Vacqueyras. The vines average 35 years old and are planted on alluvial and sandy, well-draining soils. Grenache is the emblematic variety of the Southern Rhône Valley, tolerating drought very well, while also providing juice that is very sweet, and often contributes power and volume to wine blends. Syrah is often trellised because it is not very resistant to the mistral winds, while adding a beautiful purple colour to the wines, along with intense fruit aromas and spices; Syrah also pairs very well with Grenache. Mourvèdre is the late-maturing variety that originated in Spain and produces intense and powerful wines with great finesse, and is particularly suited for ageing and ageing in wood. At the winery, the grapes for this wine were de-stemmed and placed in stainless steel, thermo-regulated vats for a 24-hour maceration, followed by fermentation. 60% of the cuvée is matured in vats, while the rest was aged in 450 L first and second-use barrels for a period of 12 months, before being blended together with the tank-aged portion.

The 2018 growing season in Rhône was a bit of a hit and miss. Winter and spring were wet and mild, but reasonably successful. In the Southern Rhône, there was unexpected rainfall in June that caused some difficulties with mildew and rot. The damp weather eventually dried up and gave way to a hot, dry summer. Despite a challenging growing season, the resulting wines were generally good with red wines more densely concentrated than typical with strong fruit flavours and structure. After enjoying the excellent 2017 LAVAU Vacqueyras in Spring of last year, let's see how this latest vintage is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LAVAU VACQUEYRAS 2018 - AC, Rhône, France (#104927) (XD) - $26.95
Blend of 50% Grenache Noir, 40% Syrah, and 10% Mourvèdre. The fragrant, medium-high intensity offers lovely perfumed, ripe dark berry, purple fruit, dark cherry, and floral aromas with swarthy, scorched earth undertones. The medium-full bodied palate is ripe with smooth, refined, subtly structured and grippy tannins that support the ripe dark berry-cherry, purple fruit, earthy, and smoky flavours with subtle spicy notes. Acids are fresh and lively, Nicely balanced throughout with lovely dark berry, subtle smoky earth, and spice notes linger on the long finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Other lovely wines by Maison LAVAU can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Rémy Ferbras Terre de Mistral Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2018 (France) - Wine Review

After the enjoying the lovely 2017 Rémy Ferbras Terre de Mistral Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages in Spring of last year, for tonight's red wine review I'm delighted to see the next vintage come to the LCBO next weekend as part of the September 10th LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced by Rémy Ferbras, a range of wines that pays tribute to the first cellar master of Maison Grandes Serres - a winery with deep roots in the Southern Rhône Valley at the heart of the presigious vineyards of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Rémy Ferbras is an iconic figure of the winery as he was a tireless advocate of the Rhône terroir and its grape varieties. He also contributed largely through his work and tenacity to the development and recognition of Grandes Serres. The Rémy Ferbras range is a result of strict selections, precise vinification and ageing, to produce rich, elegant, complex, and flavourful wines, just as Rémy Ferbras would have it.

This red wine from Rhône is a classic blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, or GSM for short. The grapes were grown within the Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône-Villages appellation on soils mostly composed of limestone pebbles and brown clay. After harvesting the grapes at optimum maturity, each variety was vinified separately and after alcoholic and malolactic fermentations, the wine was blended and bottled.

The 2018 vintage in the Southern Rhône was a bit of a hit and miss with humidity, mildew, and uneven ripening issues due to unexpected rainfall. However, despite a challenging growing season, the resulting wines were generally good and more densely concentrated that normal with strong fruit flavours and structure. Let's see how this 2018 Rhône wine from Plan de Dieu is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

RÉMY FERBRAS TERRE DE MISTRAL PLAN DE DIEU CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES 2018 - AP, Rhône, France (#538009) (XD) - $15.95
This classic blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre has a fresh, perfumed, medium-high intensity nose with a lovely bouquet of ripe dark red cherry, floral, and spices with touches of red plum and subtle earthiness. On the medium to medium-full bodied palate it offers delicious red cherry and raspberry flavours in a slightly cooked profile, plus spices and earthy-stony-smoky minerality notes. Acids are fresh and well-balanced, while the tannins are smooth, refined, and lightly structured with a subtle grip on the back palate. Tangy with lovely stony mineral notes lingering on the very long aftertaste. Enjoy this recommended buy over the next 3-4 years. Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Rémy Ferbras are available through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.

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