October 7, 2023 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: Classic European Regions

Here's my top wine picks from the October 7 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection which is titled "Classic European Regions. It is a big, and very fine release with 141 wines that also includes a selection of Online & Flagship Exclusive wines. All of these wines should be available by this Saturday.

We begin with the feature on Classic European Regions, which include twenty-three wines from seven classic wine producing countries across Europe. From the theme, there are five wines included among my top picks, with the lone white wine is from Spain and it is a blend of 70% Viura (from 80 year old vines) and 30% Maturana Blanca that was fermented and aged in oak. There are three wines from the classic wine producing country of Italy - an Amarone that is a traditional blend of Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara, a Barolo that is made with Nebbiolo, and a Brunello di Montalcino that is made with Sangiovese. From France, the Châteauneuf-du-Pape is composed of 60% Grenache Noir, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, 5% Cinsault, and 5% Counoise.

Red wine recommendations from the main release begins in France with a 2012 vintage blend from Bordeaux that is crafted with 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernets, while the red from Gigondas is roughly 70/20/10 Grenache / Syrah / Mourvèdre, and the wine from Madiran in Southwest France is composed of 50% Tannat, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 24% Cabernet Franc. The only other blend is a Rioja from Spain that is composed of 80% Tempranillo, 11% Graciano, and 9% Garnacha. Mono-varietal wines should be self-explanatory, but include wines crafted with Malbec from Paraje Altamira in Argentina, an Aglianico from Campania, and a Cabernet Sauvignon from Australia.

Among my white wine picks from the rest of the release, the only blend is the white wine from Rhone that is a blend of 60% Viognier, 20% Grenache Blanc, and 20% Roussanne. Other fine offerings include a quartet of lovely Chardonnays from Piedmont, California, and Burgundy. If you would like to explore a new grape variety, try the Greek wine that is made with the Kydonitsa varietal. And lastly, if you want something a bit sweet, check out the Riesling from Niagara.

Other wines include a fine vintage sparkling rosé from Champagne that is a blend of 52% Pinot Noir (14% red wine), 27% Chardonnay, and 21% Meunier, while the Vin Santo is composed of 40% Malvasia Bianca, 30% Trebbiano Toscano, and 30% San Colombano.

Enjoy my top wine recommendations from this release! Cheers!

Red Wine:

• IL POGGIO SANNIO AGLIANICO 2018 - DOP, Campania, Italy (#575225) (XD) - $19.95
• CHÂTEAU TOUR DE SARRAIL 2012 - AC Bordeaux, France (#448829) (XD) - $19.95
• CHAKANA FINCA LOS CEDROS MALBEC 2020 - Vegan, Paraje Altamira, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina (#32142) (XD) - $20.95  91 pts  wine review
• CHÂTEAU BOUSCASSÉ 2017 - AP Madiran, Southwest, France (#743385) (XD) - $23.95  90+ pts  wine review
• WAKEFIELD JARAMAN CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021 - Clare Valley and Coonawarra, South Australia (#142398) (XD) - $24.95  90 pts  wine review
• CATENA PARAJE ALTAMIRA MALBEC 2021 - Sustainable, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina (#492413) (XD) - $24.95

• FRANÇOIS-XAVIER LAMBERT PRESTIGE DES DENTELLES GIGONDAS 2020 - AP, Rhône, France (#20952) (XD) - $36.95  FE
• REMELLURI RESERVA 2015 - DOCa Rioja, Spain (#480160) (XD) - $52.95  FE
• DOMAINE DE LA SOLITUDE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2021 - AC, Rhône, France (#560987) (XD) - $54.95
• TENUTA ROCCA COMUNE DI SERRALUNGA D'ALBA BAROLO 2018 - DOCG, Piedmont, Italy (#154591) (XD) - $62.95
• CORTONESI LA MANNELLA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2017 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#12405) (XD) - $72.95
• MASI CAMPOLONGO DI TORBE AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 2015 - DOCG, Veneto, Italy (#548677) (D) - $148.95

White Wine:

• VIENI RIESLING 2021 - VQA Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#35299) (M) - $17.95
• LES VIGNERONS DU CASTELAS LE MONARQUE CÔTES DU RHÔNE BLANC 2022 - AP, France (#18570) (XD) - $17.95  90 pts  wine review
• MONEMVASIA KYDONITSA 2021 - PGI Laconia, Greece (#33254) (XD) - $23.95
• NIVARIUS LIMITED EDITION BLANCO 2018 - DOCa Rioja, Spain (#15591) (XD) - $27.95
• RENATO RATTI BRIGATA CHARDONNAY 2022 - DOC Langhe, Piedmont, Italy (#17387) (XD) - $27.95
• CAMBRIA KATHERINE'S VINEYARD CHARDONNAY 2021 - Sustainable, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County, California, USA (#980490) (XD) - $39.95  92 pts  wine review
• CHANZY LE BOIS CASSIEN MONOPOLE MERCUREY 1ER CRU 2019 - AC, Burgundy, France (#32950) (XD) - $41.95  FE
• DOMAINE PINSON FRÈRES MONT-DE-MILIEU CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2021 - AC, Burgundy, France (#700914) (XD) - $74.95  FE  94 pts  wine review

Sparkling Wine:

• MOËT & CHANDON GRAND VINTAGE EXTRA BRUT ROSÉ CHAMPAGNE 2015 - AC, France (#69831) (XD) - $117.95

Fortified Wine:

• FONSECA GUIMARAENS VINTAGE PORT 1998 - Douro, Portugal (#33813) (S) (375 mL) - $46.95

Dessert Wine:

• ROSSETTI IL NOSTRO VIN SANTO DEL CHIANTI 2004 - DOC, Tuscany, Italy (#33440) (S) (375 mL) - $26.95

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Domaine Hamelin Beauroy Chablis 1er Cru 2021 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a beautiful Chablis Premier Cru from Burgundy that arrived at the LCBO as an Online & Flagship Exclusive in the recent September 9 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Domaine Hamelin, a small, family-owned winery with a long winemaking history in the village of Lignorelles, in Burgundy, just minutes from the town of Chablis. The history of the domaine begins when Gustave Hamelin planted 2 hectares of vines in 1840, alongside his mixed farm. In 1880, Pierre Hamelin grew the domaine to 3 hectares of vines and used his mules to help work them. At this time, the wines were held in 132 litre barrels and gave rise to the name "feuillette" or little cask, and were transported by river using barges or rafts.

In 1911, Georges Hamelin extended the property to 4 hectares and worked the vines by horse, while transporting the wines in feuillettes by railway. In 1936, Pierre Hamelin took over the domaine from his father and further developed the vineyard and winery by using some of the industry's latest technological advancements and continuing well into the next decade. In 1970, Marc Hamelin created his own vineyard, while also adding an area he inherited from his father.

Today, Domaine Hamelin is run by the sixth and seventh generations of the family - Thierry and his son, Charles. They run the estate together while perpetuating the wine traditions of Chablis and knowledge that has been handed down from one generation to the next. They harvest their grapes from nearly 37 hectares of vines which extend over the villages of Poinchy, Beines, and Lignorelle. The focus at Domaine Hamelin is mainly on Chablis wines, using a mix of old traditions and modern-day techniques to craft wines that express their terroir. The wines are crafted by the Hamelin family in a well-controlled environment with thermo-regulated processes, including bottling at the estate at the optimal moment.

This white wine is crafted with 100% Chardonnay, from vines that were planted between 1980 and 1982 on very strong, south-facing slopes (30 - 45% / 16.5 - 24 degrees), opposite the Lac de Beines, and extends from the bottom of the valley to the top of the slopes. The soils on this slope consist of Kimmeridgian sub-soils that give the wine its intensity and the typicity of the character of a fine Chablis Premier Cru. The 3.9 hectare vineyard is managed under the strict conditions of Chablis tradition, with the grapes virtually guaranteed to reach maturity every year. The grapes are mostly harvested mechanically, and after being selected, sorted, and fermented, the wine is aged for 12 to 18 months in stainless steel vats prior to bottling.

The 2021 growing season in Chablis was a difficult one with frost, mildew, oidium, and botrytis, resulting in reduced volumes. However, with great attention to the vineyard and technical expertise in the winery, this vintage did produce wines with a classic profile full of vibrant acidity and a particularly strong terroir influence that highlights minerality. Having enjoyed the excellent 2019 Domaine Hamelin Beauroy Chablis 1er Cru last year, let's see how this 2021 Chablis 1er Cru is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE HAMELIN BEAUROY CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2021 - AC, Burgundy, France (#391805) (XD) - $45.95
100% Chardonnay raised in stainless steel, this has a lovely, open, fragrant, and highly aromatic on the nose with earthy/stony minerals flecked with lemon citrus, apple, pear, and herbal aromas, plus touches of pleasant bitter notes adding further savoury characters. It is quite the mouthful on the medium-full bodied, well-structured palate with very impressive concentration. It's dry with stony mineral flavours layered over lemon citrus, apple, pear, and green herbal notes which are supported by crisp, juicy acidity. It has a nice texture on the gently spicy mid-palate, while oyster-shell notes join the stony mineral, apple, pear, and lemon replays on the exceptionally long, balanced finish. Enjoy to the end of the decade, maybe a bit longer. Highly recommended buy! Score: 94 pts

Other fine wines by Domaine Hamelin can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia and Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Henkell Brut Crémant de Loire 2016 (France) - Wine Review

Tonight's sparkling wine review is a delicious vintage Crémant from Loire that arrived at the LCBO as part of the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on September 9th.

It is produced by Henkell, a leading, family-owned sparkling wine producer that is based in Wiesbaden, Germany. Henkell is an international star and best seller when it comes to exporting the German sparkling wine culture as their wines are found globally in more than 100 countries.

It all began when wine lover, Adam Henkell, opened a store as a wine merchant in 1832. He later discovered the fine art of crafting traditional method sparkling wine in France and brought this knowledge back home to Germany, marrying the French art of the cuvée with the German art of cellar-mastery. Following the French example, Henkell made his first outstanding sparkling wines in 1856, marking the beginning of a unique German success story. The Henkell brand of sparkling wines was famous all over the world before the end of the 19th century thanks to Otto Henkell, Adam's grandson. Henkell was also an export pioneer and market leader before the turn of the century, and in the 1950's, after Otto Henkell II took the helm, the company played an important role in the German economic miracle. Since its inception, Henkell has used the best base wines and the perfect technical skills of both German and French cellarmasters to guarantee its inimitable flavour and consistently high quality.

This sparkling wine was launched by Henkell in the fast-growing product segment of Crémant de Loire as a tribute to its French roots. Founder Adam Henkell learned the fine art of sparkling wine production in France and also had his own winery in the French town of Reims, the home of Champagne.

It is not often we see vintage-dated Crémant, but the grapes for this bubbly were hand-harvested at the end of the 2016 growing season, and only the best juices were selected for this wine. It is crafted in the traditional method using 60% Chenin Blanc, 20% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir, and 5% Cabernet Franc. The first fermentation took place in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. It was aged on its lees for a short period of time, then underwent a second fermentation in bottle for about 3 years in natural cellars, where the temperature remains a constant 12-13°C and provides the optimal environment for secondary fermentation. Let's see how this 2016 Crémant de Loire sparkling wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

HENKELL BRUT CRÉMANT DE LOIRE 2016 - Traditional method, AP, Loire, France (#29893) (D) - $21.95
A blend of 60% Chenin Blanc, 20% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir, and 5% Cabernet Franc. The attractive, medium+ intensity nose has lemon citrus, pear, and peach aromas nuanced with brioche, autolytic, and toasty characters. It's medium-full bodied with some sweetness on the palate with honeyed flavours of ripe pear, peach, lemon citrus, plus some toasty, brioche, and hazelnut notes adding a savoury component. It has a crisp mouthfeel with a fine mousse and fresh acidity. More savoury with leesy mineral notes and hints citrus lingering on the finish, with very good length. Recommended buy. Score: 88+ pts

Other delicious sparkling wines by Henkell are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.

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Château de Tréviac Corbières 2020 (Languedoc) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely, unoaked blend of Syrah and Grenache from the Languedoc wine region in southern France that arrived at the LCBO as part of the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on September 9th.

It is produced by Arnaud Sié at Château Tréviac, a family-owned estate that was established in the early 20th century by Arnaud's grandfather, Fernand, and is located in the heart of the Corbières Massif, halfway between the cities of Carcassonne and Narbonne, in the Occitan region in the South of France.

The story of Château Tréviac begins when Fernand settled in the village of Talairan after World War I, as he was convinced that the wild and untapped terroir of the region was full of great potential. He built a house on an old priory and cleared the hillsides in order to build the vineyard that exists to this day. The next generation, Lucette and her husband Roger, owned a labour-horse and, against all odds, managed to remain independent and out of the co-operative system. The journey continued with their daughter, Ginette, and her husband, André Sié. Each generation of this family of winemakers brought great passion as they built the walls and cellars of the Château, stone by stone. Today, with the same passion and dedication as his ancestors, Arnaud Sié manages Château Tréviac and crafts his wines. The name Tréviac came to be over time and refers to the three old roads: the Trois Voies junction (or TRI-VIA) where traces of former construction and burial sites remain today.

The rugged and stony terroir in Corbières is not only shaped by the hot Mediterranean sun, but also by the terroir of garrigue and scrub that affords its wines such bold characters. Château Treviac extends over 36 hectares of vines, which are primarily planted with Syrah and Grenache, on the rolling hillsides of the Corbières Massif, in one of the wildest parts of France with its picturesque countryside and rich biodiversity. The soils in the area are rich in limestone and clay, with calcareous rocks on the surface, while the micro-climate offers good sun exposure and a high-altitude, which allows the vines to enjoy hot temperatures during the day, and cooler temperatures at night. With a commitment to the preservation of biodiversity and terroir, Arnaud Sié made the decision in 2019 to begin the conversion process towards organic farming.

I've enjoyed previous vintages of this terrific unoaked red, including most recently the 2019 Château de Tréviac Corbières last October. It continues to be a blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache that was hand-harvested. The grapes were crushed and pressed immediately upon arriving at the cellar and macerated for 4 to 5 weeks with regular punch downs to extract the aromas while respecting the integrity of the berries. In order to preserve freshness, the wine is raised in thermo-regulated concrete vats.

The 2020 growing season in Languedoc delivered excellent quality, albeit with slightly lower yields. It began with generous autumn rains, followed by a very mild December and a warm February, which helped get the vines off to an early start. The warm conditions continued into April and May, although rain arrived in unusually copious amounts in May, which led to downy mildew. However, the damage was limited. Cool and stormy weather arrived at the beginning of June, but thereafter, summer was hot and dry, without any heatwaves. Harvest arrived earlier than normal and growers were generally happy with the average-to-good crop size of juicy grapes, resulting in wines that are elegant, fresh, and aromatic. Let's see how this 2020 Corbières from Languedoc is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU DE TRÉVIAC CORBIÈRES 2020 - AP, Languedoc, France (#670505) (XD) - $17.95
This blend of 60/40 Syrah and Grenache was aged in concrete vats and has a medium-high intensity nose that offers a complex and attractive mix of ripe dark berry, blackberry, plum, garrigue, black raspberry, stony mineral, pepper spice, and meaty aromas. It's medium+ to medium-full bodied on the dry, ripe palate with lovely dark berry, blackberry, garrigue, stony mineral, and spice flavours which are supported by fresh acidity and fine-grained, grippy tannins. The dark berry notes taper to smoky minerals on the very long, crisp, and savoury finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other lovely wines by Arnaud Sié can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia / Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Les Caillottes Sancerre 2021 (Loire) - Wine Review

After enjoying the beautiful 2020 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Les Caillottes Sancerre in April, tonight's white wine review is the latest vintage of a perennially excellent Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre that arrived at the LCBO last weekend, as part of the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on September 9th.

This white wine is crafted by one of my favourite producers, Jean-Max Roger, a renowned wine producer based in the village of Bué, just southwest of the town of Sancerre, within the Loire Valley wine region in France. The Roger family comes from a long line of winegrowers, with the first mention of the family name dating back to the 17th century. Up until the 1960s, the Roger family practiced mixed farming with animal rearing. When Jean-Max Roger and his wife, Nicole, took over the 4 hectares of vines from his parents in the 1970s, they focused their attention on developing the vineyards and estate.

Under the guidance of Jean-Max, the winery experienced significant growth and gained recognition for producing exceptional Sancerre wines. Today, the estate covers 28 hectares of vines within the Sancerre appellation, with more than 40 plots that offer exceptional diversity of exposure, slope, and soil profiles which are dispersed among the region's three most renowned terroirs - Caillottes, Kimmeridgian Marl, and Flint. This diversity, combined with the Roger family's winemaking expertise, allows each wine to express all of the uniqueness of their terroirs through their structure, elegance, and finesse.

Jean-Max Roger's passion for wine was naturally passed on to his sons, Thibault and Etienne, and in 2004, the brothers joined their father at the family estate. While complementing each other, the brothers perpetuate the family's know-how, vineyard and winemaking techniques to improve their wines with each passing vintage. The Roger family is dedicated to producing terroir-driven wines with finesse, purity, and typicity, which has helped solidify Jean-Max Roger's reputation as one of Sancerre's top wine producers.

Like previous vintages, this Sauvignon Blanc was grown in the villages of Bué, Amigny, and Sancerre, on limestone soils called "caillottes", with vineyard exposure to the south and southwest. The vines are roughly between 6 to 40 years of age and tended to produce grapes that reveal their terroir. Yields are controlled, while organic amendments and deep soil working revitalize soil life. At the winery, the wines are vinified to reflect the fruitiness and density of the vintage. After harvest, the grapes are immediately pneumatically pressed and cold settled for between 48 and 72 hours to protect the aromas. Temperature-controlled, long fermentation was carried out using natural yeasts, followed by ageing on its heavy lees to develop minerality. After fining and filtration to stabilize the wine, it was bottled at the estate using their own facilities.

The 2021 growing season in Sancerre was a complicated one with frost, mildew, and storms, with great variability on a daily basis. Yields were down with fewer clusters, but the fruit that was harvested is of high quality, resulting in wines that were surprisingly good. Let's see how this 2021 Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE LES CAILLOTTES SANCERRE 2021 - AC, Loire, France (#65573) (XD) - $36.95
100% Sauvignon Blanc. Elegant and beautifully intense, the aromatic nose offers lemon/lime citrus, stony minerality, grassy herbs, guava, tropical fruit, and grapefruit aromas with hints of melon. It's medium-full bodied, impressively concentrated, and well-structured on the crunchy palate. Dry and complex with lightly honeyed flavours of lemon/lime, citrus, white floral, ripe apple, and pear, with touches of guava, tapering to stony mineral notes. Gently spicy on the mid-palate. It has nicely textured mouthfeel that is supported by juicy, well-balanced acidity. Stony, leesy mineral notes linger on the exceptionally long, balanced finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other fine wines by Jean-Max Roger are available at the LCBO, as well as through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia and Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Cellier du Château de la Chaume Chablis 2022 and Beaujolais 2022 (France) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of delicious wines that are brand new to the LCBO, arriving earlier this summer as General List wines that are widely available at LCBO outlets across Ontario right now.

Both of these wines are produced by Cellier du Château de la Chaume, a very old Maison that is located in Burgundy, in the commune of Corgoloin, Côte de Nuits, and is surrounded by a 10 hectare park of trees. The castle belonged to the very influential Marey-Monge family from Beaune, while the Monge name was known because of Gaspard Monge (1746- 1818), a famous mathematician who created descriptive geometry. Some time later, the castle was sold to the former owner of Corgoloin's famous quarries. The high-quality marble from these quarries was distributed throughout the world to build monuments, squares, and roads.

Cellier du Château de la Chaume strives to work closely with winegrowers that share their values, which most importantly is the desire to create wines of excellence. The vines are trained while respecting viticultural tradition and methods in order to obtain high-quality and mature grapes. Partnership winegrowers are asked to favour working the soil and limit synthetics in order to favour environmental balance, while seeking Burgundy terroir and climate expressions.

The wines are vinified in the cellar of Château de la Chaume, which was created in 1993, and the winemaking facility was completely redesigned and modernized with a stainless steel wine storehouse. Each vintage is different, thus the wines are vinified according to the climate of the vintage, with length of maceration and extraction more or less pronounced, as well as ageing in tank and barrel, in order to highlight the terroir and qualities of the vintage, while trying to obtain wines with the best balance. The wines are carefully vinified to develop and amplify the original organoleptic qualities of the wines, resulting in wines that are rich, delicate, attractive, refined, complex, and smooth.

Cellier du Château de la Chaume has four ranges of wines across Burgundy (and Beaujolais) - Regional, Village, Premier Cru, and Grand Cru. The Beaujolais would fall under their Regional appellation range, while the Chablis is from their Village appellation range. The Village appellation wines are meant to be the first introduction to the complexity of Burgundy terroir, with limited yields that deliver nice concentration. The grapes are grown on clayed-chalky soils, hand harvested, and de-stemmed prior to fermentation in stainless steel or wood tanks, followed by ageing in mostly used barrels.

From a 2022 vintage that was very good in both Beaujolais and Burgundy, let's see how these two wines are tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

CELLIER DU CHÂTEAU DE LA CHAUME CHABLIS 2022 - AC, Burgundy, France (#32568) (XD) - $35.95
From clayed-chalky soils, this Chardonnay has elegant, concentrated, and medium-high intensity aromas of ripe lemon citrus, apple, and pear with hints of stony minerality. It's light-to-medium bodied on the dry, ripe, and lightly honeyed palate with lemon citrus, apple, pear, and floral flavours, plus touches of oyster seashell mineral notes. Gently spicy on the mid-palate. It's all supported by crisp, bracing acidity. Juicy and lip-smacking, with seashell mineral notes lingering on the long finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91+ pts

CELLIER DU CHÂTEAU DE LA CHAUME BEAUJOLAIS 2022 - AC, Beaujolais, France (#32624) (XD) - $18.95
100% Gamay. Fresh, medium-high intensity aromatics offer red and black cherry, wild berry, pomegranate, and raspberry fruit aromas that are accented with dried herbs and spice. It's medium-bodied on the dry and very ripe palate with fruit forward red and black cherry, raspberry, pomegranate, and currant flavours with hints of dried herbs. Juicy acids are well-balanced, while the light tannins offer a supple, lightly grippy texture. Fruity with a savoury, mineral edge on the finish, with very good length. Score: 88 pts

Other delicious wines by Cellier du Château de la Chaume can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Cellier des Dauphins Vinsobres 2019 (Rhône) - Wine Review

After enjoying the delicious 2019 Cellier des Dauphins Réserve a couple of years ago, we move up a notch with tonight's red wine review that is a Cru wine from the same producer. It arrived at the LCBO as part of the recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on August 19.

Cellier des Dauphins is a co-operative winery that was founded in 1967 when the Union of Côtes du Rhône winegrowers (UVCDR) was established. The UVCDR brought together 2,300 winemaking families in the southern Rhône Valley, a territory that covered 2,500 hectares of vines and approximately 20 AOCs. As a co-operative, member growers pool their resources together to produce and market their wines. Additionally, they have also invested in modern winemaking techniques and facilities to ensure consistent quality across its range of wines, while also focusing on sustainable and environmentally-friendly practices.

Today, Cellier des Dauphins is the pride of UVCDR, and is particularly renowned for its Côtes du Rhône wines. The name "Cellier des Dauphins" translates to "Cellar of the Dolphins", and is an historical reference between the Dauphiné region, which is located in the southeastern part of France, and the dolphin emblem associated with the French royal family. The founding members of Cellier des Dauphins are proud of their terroir and driven by constant innovation, while preparing for the future and striving relentlessly to raise the quality from vine to glass. Cellier des Dauphins is committed to sustainable agriculture and has launched various eco-friendly initiatives, while also having over 1,000 hectares of organically farmed vines. While Cellier des Dauphins has a wide variety of soils and terroirs within their vineyards, offering oenologists a rich palette of grapes for blending, for this particular bottling they have decided to craft it as a Cru wine from Vinsobres.

This red wine is crafted using grapes grown in the Cru of Vinsobres, whose name is derived from the Latin word "vinsobrio", which means wine and work. It is a blend of primarily 70% Grenache and 20% Syrah that was grown in the hills of the Southern Rhône Cru of Vinsobres, at 500 metres above sea level, in a region that was historically part of the estates of the King of France's sons. The region experiences a sunny, Mediterranean climate that is cooled by Mistral winds. It has dry winters and summers, with particularly high temperatures in summer, while rainfall occurs primarily in autumn and spring. The soil in Vinsobres is covered in stones, which enables the heat of the day to be accumulated and encourages early ripening and concentration in the grapes. The wine was crafted with meticulous attention at every stage, culminating with it being aged in cask for 12 months to develop smoothness and suppleness in the tannins.

Like the wine I enjoyed a couple of years ago, this red is also from the same vintage in the Southern Rhône. The 2019 growing season was a swelteringly hot and very dry year that was surprisingly successful. Grenache excelled during this vintage, producing wines that are rich, ripe, and expressive, with refined textures. Let's see how this 2019 Rhône red from the Vinsobres Cru is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CELLIER DES DAUPHINS VINSOBRES 2019 - Cru des Côtes du Rhône, AC, France (#15448) (XD) - $19.95
Blend of mainly 70% Grenache and 20% Syrah, this has an enticing, medium-high nose that offers lovely aromas of black raspberry, licorice, garrigue, and baking spices with a touch of floral. It's medium-full bodied with velvety smooth, refined tannins and fresh, well-balanced acidity that supports the ripe black raspberry, red plum, baking spice, licorice, stony mineral, and meaty notes in a dry flavour profile. It's nicely balanced throughout, even showing some elegance, while stony mineral notes linger on the long, crisp, and very satisfying finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other delicious wines by Cellier des Dauphins are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - Churchill Cellars Ltd.

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Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret Fourchaume Chablis 1er Cru 2021 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

After enjoying the lovely 2020 Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret Petit Chablis earlier this year, for tonight's white wine review we take it up several notches with this excellent Chablis 1er Cru from the same producer. It arrived at the LCBO earlier this month as part of the July 8th LCBO VINTAGES Release New Collection and is available to buy now.

The story of Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret, a small, family-owned estate winery, begins in 1713 with Jean Vocoret, whose winemaking soul guided him to pass down his wisdom, his fruits, and the nobility of winemaking to his descendants, giving the current generation of the family the passion for craftsmanship in cultivating the vine and winemaking. The estate is located in the Chablis wine region of Burgundy, France, and is known for producing high-quality Chablis wines which are renowned for their purity, elegance, and mineral character. The estate has been passed down familial lines since its founding, and in the latter part of the 19th century, the Domain was renamed while in the hands of Yvon's great, great grandfather Victor Hyppolite Vocoret, who was born in 1863. At the time, they only had a few acres of vines and small barrels in the cellar.

Born in 1895, it was Yvon's grandparents, Henri and Louise Vocoret, who, despite the suffering during WWI, managed to make the land prosper with the help of his horses, his pride and joy, to produce excellent wine. As a winegrower, the richness of the profession compensated for the moral injury sustained from the horrible war, which affected him very deeply. Yvon's parents, Maurice and Huguette Vocoret, were the next owners of the Domain and together they carefully reflected upon the art of winemaking and innovated by investing in high-performing and efficient equipment for the cellar. They anticipated that with these improvements, the quality of their wines would gain recognition and respect. Since the time of Yvon's parents, the Domaine has maintained its reputation for producing high quality wines.

Today, the Domaine is in the hands of Yvon, son of Maurice and Huguette, and his son, Laurent, who is the 6th generation of the family. Also involved in the family business are the spouses, Christine, wife of Yvon, and Clémentine, wife of Laurent. Together, they have the same motivation as their ancestors and are grateful and respectful, as they continue to write the story of a humble, but determined, family of winegrowers. They use the same principles as generations that came before to respect the soil and grapes, and the wines that they produce. The wines of the Vocoret family are a reflection of the expertise and passion that has been handed down through the generations, while upholding the family motto of quality, dignity, and respect.

This Chablis 1er Cru is crafted with Chardonnay that was grown in Fourchaume, one of the best known, and largest, Premier Cru vineyards in Chablis. The Chardonnay vines average 45 years old and were grown on clayey-stony Kimmeridgian limestone soils on marl, with the limestone pebbles having a slightly whitish appearance. The vineyard has been farmed using organic amendments since 1974 and reasoned protection for the last 17 years to produce a noble product from protected lands, while also respecting the environment. The grapes were harvested using both manual and mechanical methods. It was vinified using the family's purest and simplest traditions for 5 generations, with both alcoholic and malolactic fermentations occurring naturally, as they wanted to respect the personality of the vintage. It was aged for 10 months in stainless steel tanks to retain freshness and character, with each plot allowed to express itself.

The challenging 2021 vintage can be broken down into three parts - cold at the beginning with frost, wet through the summer months, and variable during August and September. Yields were heavily reduced for whites, but the quality of what was picked was very good to excellent as it was a cooler-than-normal growing season. Let's see how this 2021 Chablis Premier Cru from Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE YVON & LAURENT VOCORET FOURCHAUME CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2021 - AC, Burgundy, France (#22776) (XD) - $52.95
100% Chardonnay from 45-year-old vines. Lovely, highly aromatic nose has flinty-earthy mineral aromas layered over lemon citrus and white floral, with impressive depth. It's medium+ weighted and dry with crisp, vibrant, and saliva-inducing acidity with lovely, ripe, and balanced aroma replays of lemon citrus, flinty mineral, and white floral flavours with a twist of honey and some spice notes. Gently tangy and tart on the mid-palate, while flinty-earthy mineral notes linger through to the exceptionally long, lightly chalky textured finish. Has the power to drink well to the end of the decade. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other fine wines by Domaine Yvon & Laurent Vocoret can be purchased through their Agent - DBINO David Beauroy Selections.

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Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Marnes et Caillottes Sancerre 2021 and La Grange Dîmière Sancerre Rosé 2022 (Loire) - Wine Reviews

Tonight's wine reviews are a pair of excellent wines from Sancerre in the Loire Valley that arrived at the LCBO over the weekend as part of the June 24 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Both of these wines are produced by Jean-Max Roger, a renowned producer from Sancerre in the Loire Valley, and is easily my favourite producer from the region. The Roger family comes from a long-line of winegrowers from the village of Bué, a commune within the Sancerre appellation and located to the west and a little to the south of the town of Sancerre. The Roger family name was first mentioned in the 17th century and up until the 1960s practiced mixed farming, which included animal rearing.

Jean-Max took over the family estate of 4 hectares of vines in the 1970s and, together with his wife, Nicole, developed the vineyards and estate. Under his guidance, the winery experienced significant growth and gained recognition for producing exceptional Sancerre wines. Jean-Max Roger is focused on crafting high-quality wines that reflect the unique terroir of Sancerre, which is renowned for its chalky limestone soils and cool climate.

Today, the estate is still operated by Jean-Max Roger and his wife. However, their passion and love for wine was transferred to both of their sons, and in 2004 both Thibault and Etienne joined the family estate. The brothers complement each other, perpetuating the family's know-how and techniques to improve their wines with each passing vintage. With a family estate that has grown to 28 hectares of vines in the Sancerre appellation and 6 hectares in Menetou-Salon, and with more than 40 plots that offer an exceptional diversity of exposure, slope, and soil profiles, this allows the Roger family to use their winemaking expertise to allow each wine to express all of the uniqueness of the terroirs through the wines structure, elegance, and finesse. Jean-Max Roger also maintains a sustainable approach to viticulture which helps preserve the vines and terroir, while not compromising on the production of top-quality grapes. The winery has also expanded over the years to include modern equipment, and combined with new techniques while respecting traditions, Jean-Max Roger is able to craft their wines under optimal conditions.

With vineyard management, Jean-Max Roger produces grapes to reveal its terroir. The vines are tended to using organic principles and working the deep soil to revitalize soil life. By using the Guyot Poussard pruning method, the result is better balance of the stock. They also perform spring disbudding to control yields, while using mechanical weed control which respects soil life. At the winery, Jean-Max Roger aims to produce wines reflecting the fruitiness and density of the vintage. The grapes are pneumatically pressed upon arriving at the winery, and cold settled for between 48 and 72 hours which helps protect deterioration of aromas, while also eliminating vegetal fragments and dust. The wines undergo a long, temperature-controlled fermentation using natural yeasts, which helps develop aromatic complexity, and follows with ageing on heavy lees to develop minerality. After fining and filtration, which helps stabilize the aromas and wine, it is bottled at the estate using their own facilities.

While the 2021 vintage was a good, but tricky vintage, the 2022 vintage was very good and referred to as possibly the best in the last 30 years. Having enjoyed previous editions of these wines such as the 2020 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Marnes et Caillottes Sancerre and the 2020 Jean-Max Roger La Grange Dîmière Sancerre Rosé, I would expect similar, if not better quality levels this time around. Let's see how this Sancerre Rosé and Sancerre Blanc wines from Loire Valley is tasting tonight...

Tasting Notes:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE MARNES ET CAILLOTTES SANCERRE 2021 - AC, Loire, France (#196667) (XD) - $38.95
100% Sauvignon Blanc from 5 to 40 year-old vines grown in the villages of Bué & Amigny on Kimmeridgian Marls (Marnes) and Limestone (Caillottes) soils. Fresh, fragrant, and highly aromatic on the perfumed nose with spring flowers, lemon/lime citrus, herbs, and freshly cut grass aromas with a fine, flinty mineral underpinning. It's nicely textured on the medium+ bodied palate with fresh, lively acidity lifting the clean and ripe lemon/lime citrus, spring flower, herbs, and stony mineral flavours, plus some spicy notes on the mid-palate. It's nicely balanced throughout with a pleasantly chalky textured mouthfeel on the back palate. Lovely lemon/lime citrus and dried herbal notes taper to an exceptionally long, leesy mineral finish. My favourite in the portfolio and a highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

JEAN-MAX ROGER LA GRANGE DÎMIÈRE SANCERRE ROSÉ 2022 - AC, Loire, France (#490813) (XD) - $31.95
100% Pinot Noir grown on flint, Kimmeridgian marls & Limestone, Silex, Terres Blanches & Caillottes' soils from vines between 25 to 45 years old. The medium+ intensity nose is clean and fresh and red berry, strawberry, cherry, grapefruit, and citrus, and blood orange aromas underpinned by fine mineral notes. On the medium+ bodied palate it is dry, ripe, and lightly honeyed with lovely mineral, grapefruit, blood orange, red berry, strawberry, and cherry flavour replays. It has clean, succulent, and well-balanced acidity, along with a pleasant, chalky textured mouthfeel. Lightly spicy on the mid-palate, while mineral notes linger on the long finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

While a couple of other lovely wines by Jean-Max Roger can be found at the LCBO, the entire portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Château Clou du Pin Premium 2020 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Merlot from Bordeaux which arrived at the LCBO last weekend in the May 27 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and is widely available across Ontario right now.

It is produced by Domaines Fontana, a family winery that was founded by Huguette and Angelo Fontana in 1950. They were in their mid-twenties at the time and had a dream to plant vines and build a winery, eventually settling in the small town of Gensac in Gironde, about 15 km southeast of Saint-Émilion. They chose Gensac because of the richness of the land that determined the location of their vineyard, high on the hillsides of Gironde.

As the years and vintages went by, not only did the vines grow, but the family also grew as Huguette and Angelo had five children who grew up and inherited their parent's passion for the vine. The boys of the second generation of the Fontana family enlarged the family business by acquiring plots of neighbouring vines and each invested in various trades that are currently present at the Estate. The family heritage has grown further today with the grandchildren of Huguette and Angelo joining Domaines Fontana, bringing with them modernity, a fresh outlook, dynamism, youth, and a common desire to share their passion for vines and wine.

Today, Domaines Fontana has over 300 hectares of land mainly within the commune of Gensac, but also extending over neighbouring and bordering communes. Since 2019, they vines and winery have been HVE (High Environmental Value) certified, a certification that allows recognition of good environmental and health practices in the vineyard. The work of the vineyard and the cellar are adapted to the times, always respecting know-how while adopting new and innovative techniques with the sole aim of producing quality wines. Red wine makes up nearly all (96%) of their production and is made to Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOC. The wines are bottled using their own bottling facilities on-premise, and most of the wine is sold in France, with only 30% exported outside the country.

This red wine is the result of a unique and careful selection of the Chai des Domaines Fontana. It bears the Premium label because it is crafted from their best, single vat of Merlot which is chosen for its complexity, rarity, and concentration - the qualities sought for this exceptional cuvée. It is crafted with 100% Merlot from a vineyard planted on clay-limestone soils on hillsides up to 120 metres above sea level, with south-southwest exposure. From pruning to vinification, they practice traditional and reasoned cultivation with soil that is enriched with only organic manure. The grapes were harvested from low-yield plots which result in grapes that produce a structured and concentrated wine. Upon arrival a the winery, the grapes are destemmed and macerated for 30 days, followed by fermentation in stainless steel tanks. It was aged in their cellar which is equipped with a thermoregulation system with micro oxygenation. From an excellent vintage, let's see how this 2020 Merlot from Bordeaux is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU CLOU DU PIN PREMIUM 2020 - AC Bordeaux Supérieur, France (#28727) (XD) - $18.95
100% Merlot. The rich, ripe, medium-high intensity nose offers dark fruited aromas of blackberry, black cherry, and plum balanced with savoury, musky woodspice, and cocoa notes, plus a touch of floral. It's full-bodied on the rich palate with chewy, well-structured, and fine-grained tannins, along with juicy, well-balanced acidity. Delicious grilled herbs join the blackberry, black cherry, plum, and cocoa replays in a dry flavour profile. Savoury cocoa notes linger on the long, dry, and well-structured finish. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines by Domaines Fontana can be purchased through their Agent - Eurovintage Wines & Spirits.

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Domaine Boussard Chablis 2020 (Burgundy) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is this beautiful Chardonnay from Chablis that is brand new to the LCBO, arriving in stores across Ontario as part of last weekend's May 27 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Domaine Boussard, an independent winegrower and family estate that planted their first vineyards in AOP Bourgogne in 1992. The Domaine was founded in the heart of Burgundy by Olivier Boussard, a man who comes from a family that has been farming for 5 generations, and his wife Isabelle. Domaine Boussard is located in Nitry, about 17 km southeast of Chablis, between Auxerre and Avallon, in a rustic setting in which the cellar is installed in an old farmhouse. Olivier makes his own wines with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir at the estate using traditional methods.

Olivier's knowledge and passion for the terroir and profession as a winegrower enabled him to grow and expand his range of wines. Today, the husband and wife team, along with their daughter Margot, have 32 hectares of vineyards located in the municipalities of Beines and Venoy, on the edge of Chablis. Their philosophy can be summed up as: Quality, respect for the environment, and hospitality. They aim to find the right balance between plant and terroir, and as such, their vineyards are farmed under the principles of sustainable viticulture as they have obtained the "HVE3" Environmental Value Certification. Their approach consists of enhancing the soil and vine in its natural environment by using plant and mineral materials that take into account natural resources, protect the territory, reduce pollution, and contribute to the balance of the land.

Continuing the fine run of vintages in Chablis, the 2020 vintage can be described as a "classic" across the famed region. Although 2020 was a very early vintage, it was not a particularly hot one and avoided dramatic heat spikes. The growing season began with an unusually mild winter that transitioned into a balmy spring. There were some bouts of frost that stuck, but the consistent warm weather prevailed and led to an unnaturally warm April which prompted both an early budburst and flowering. A hot, dry summer eventually arrived, and although the conditions became somewhat arid, the cleansing winds breezed through the vineyards to help keep the vines free from disease. The fast-growing season led to an early harvest with white grapes being both aromatic and fresh. Let's see how this 2020 Chablis from Burgundy is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE BOUSSARD CHABLIS 2020 - AP, Burgundy, France (#29709) (XD) - $39.95
100% Chardonnay. Fresh and fragrant, this has a lovely, highly aromatic, clean, and elegant nose of lemon citrus, white floral, and oyster shell minerality with touches of ripe orchard fruit, apple, herbs, and white peach adding complexity. On the medium to medium-full bodied palate it has clean, bracing acidity which lifts the ripe, lightly honeyed flavours of lemon citrus, white floral, mineral, and apple replays. It is finely textured with a gently chalky mouthfeel, while leesy notes join the lemon citrus, apple, floral, and mineral notes on the long, flavourful finish, with excellent length. Perfect for a hot, summer day, and will also pair nicely with seafood, this is a highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Other lovely wines by Domaine Boussard can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Château Guillou 2020 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent wine from the Right Bank of Bordeaux that is arriving at the LCBO this weekend (and likely in stores already) as part of the May 27th LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Famille Saby, a winegrowing family of oenologists for nine generations with knowledge passed down from father to son since the 18th century. Today, the family business is led by Jean-Bernard Saby, the 8th generation of the family, and his two sons who are the 9th generation - Jean-Christophe and Jean-Philippe. The Saby family are considered specialists of wines from the Right Bank of Bordeaux and own and operate several estates in this historic wine region. One of these estates is Château Guillou and its vineyard which has existed in its current form since 1870. At Château Guillou there are 62 hectares of vines, most of which are planted on a plateau with clay-limestone soils, and hillsides with clayey-silty soils.

I've had the pleasure of enjoying this wine quite a few times over the years, including most recently the 2018 Château Guillou late last year. Like previous vintages, this red wine from Bordeaux is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. The grapes were grown on the siliceous, sandy, and gravelly soils at Château Guillou in the Montagne-Saint-Emilion appellation. The Château is located in the Libourne sub-region on the right bank of the Dordogne where the wines are usually Merlot-based. The grapes were traditionally hand-picked and sorted on tables. It underwent a cold soak pre-fermentation and foulage, a temperature-controlled fermentation, and malolactic fermentation. The wine was aged in second- and third-use French and American oak barrels.

Despite the challenges during the growing season due to the pandemic, the 2020 vintage is rated as an excellent and legendary vintage. The growing season began well with a frequently wet spring that put the vineyards in a good state leading up to the hot, dry summer. Autumn was blessed with golden sunshine and warm days, along with chilly nights in September which brought the grapes to phenolic ripeness. Although there were some periods of rain, it was the periods of drought that helped concentrate the grapes to deliver rich and intense wines. Overall, yields were slightly smaller than average, but the fruit is, for the most part, healthy and of high quality. Let's see how this 2020 Bordeaux is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU GUILLOU 2020 - AC Montagne-Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux, France (#140483) (XD) - $24.95
This blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc has a gorgeous, intense, and complex bouquet of crushed dark fruit, currant, blackberry, black cherry, and plum mingling with oak spice, dried herb, and savoury wet earth aromas rising out of the glass, plus hints of floral with time. On the ripe, full-bodied palate it has plummy, dark red cherry, blackberry, and currant flavours balanced with savoury earth, dried herbs, and gentle oak spice notes. It's supported by fresh, juicy acidity and well-structured, medium-firm tannins. Quite balanced throughout with some mineral notes appearing on the long, structured finish, with excellent length. Provides pleasure now, but will improve further with a few years in the cellar. Enjoy to the end of the decade and a highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Other lovely wines by Famille Saby can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Genèse Sancerre 2021 (Loire) - Wine Review

After the enjoying the beautiful 2020 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Les Caillottes Sancerre over the weekend, tonight's white wine review is its excellent companion that also arrived at the LCBO last weekend as part of the LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on April 15th.

It is produced by Jean-Max Roger, one of the most highly regarded wine producers in Sancerre and the Loire Valley. The Roger family comes from long-line of of winegrowers in the village of Bué, with the family name first mentioned in the 17th century. Until the 1960s, the family practiced mixed farming which included animal rearing.

In the 1970s, Jean-Max Roger took over the 4 hectares of vines from his parents and together with his wife, Nicole, they focused on developing the vineyards and the estate. Their passion and love for wine and terroir was naturally passed on to their sons, Thibault and Etienne, and in 2004 both joined the family estate. The brothers complement each other, perpetuating their family's know-how and techniques to improve their wines with each passing vintage. Today, the estate covers 28 hectares of vines in the Sancerre appellation, and 6 hectares in Menetou-Salon, with more than 40 plots that offer exceptional diversity of exposure, slope, and soil profiles. This diversity, combined with the Roger family's winemaking expertise, allows each wine to express all of the uniqueness of their terroirs through their structure, elegance, and finesse.

I've enjoyed this Sancerre Blanc many times over the years, including most recently the 2020 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Genèse Sancerre back in September. It is crafted with 100% Sauvignon Blanc that was grown in ancestral plots in the village of Bué, in Grand Chemarin and neighbouring vineyards with identical agronomic characteristics. It gets its name "Cuvée Genèse" because this is the wine that has shaped the tastes of several generations of the Roger family and it is the genesis of the estate.

The Sauvignon Blanc vines are between 10-40 years old and planted on stony, limestone, and calcareous soils called "caillottes" with south-eastern exposure to the sun. Like other wines in the portfolio, the vineyards are managed according to organic principles to produce grapes that reveal its terroir. At the winery, the wines are produced to reflect the fruitiness and density of the vintage. The grapes are immediately pneumatically pressed upon arrival at the winery, then cold settled for between 48 and 72 hours. It undergoes a long, temperature-controlled fermentation using natural yeasts, followed by ageing on heavy lees. After fining and filtration, the wine is bottled at the estate. From a challenging 2021 growing season, let's see how this Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE GENÈSE SANCERRE 2021 - AC, Loire, France (#189126) (XD) - $37.95
100% Sauvignon Blanc. Fresh, fragrant, and intensely aromatic with impressive depth, it has lovely aromas of lemon citrus, white floral, flinty-earthy minerality, pear, quince, and melon. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it has very good concentration with ripe, lightly honeyed flavours of citrus, pear, quince, and flinty-earthy-leesy minerality. It's supported by fresh, crisp, and lively acidity, and a pleasing textural mouthfeel on the mid-palate. Leesy minerality with citrus, quince, and pear notes linger on the very long, crisp finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92+ pts

Other lovely wines by Jean-Max Roger can be purchased at the LCBO or through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Les Caillottes Sancerre 2020 (Loire) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is this beautiful Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre that arrived at the LCBO this weekend as part of the April 15 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Jean-Max Roger, one of my favourite Loire Valley wine producers. The Roger family comes from a long-line of winegrowers in the village of Bué, which is located just west and a little south of the town of Sancerre. The first mention of the Roger family name dates back to the 17th century and up until the 1960s, the Roger family practiced mixed farming with animal rearing. In the 1970s, Jean-Max Roger took over the 4 hectares of vines from his parents and together with his wife, Nicole, they focused on developing the vineyards and the estate.

Today, Jean-Max Roger is one of the most highly regarded wine producers in Sancerre and the Loire Valley. Their passion and love for wine and terroir was naturally passed on to their sons, Thibault and Etienne, and in 2004 both joined the family estate. The brothers complement each other, perpetuating their family's know-how and techniques to improve their wines with each passing vintage. The estate covers 28 hectares of vines in the Sancerre appellation, and 6 hectares in Menetou-Salon, with more than 40 plots that offer exceptional diversity of exposure, slope, and soil profiles. This diversity, combined with the Roger family's winemaking expertise, allows each wine to express all of the uniqueness of their terroirs through their structure, elegance, and finesse.

I've had the pleasure of tasting previous vintages of this lovely white wine from Sancerre, including most recently the 2019 Jean-Max Roger Cuvée Les Caillottes Sancerre last September. It is crafted with 100% Sauvignon Blanc that was grown in the famous vineyards of Saint Martin, L'Epée, and others, within the villages of Bué, Amigny, and Sancerre. Most importantly, this is a terroir-focused wine where all of the grapes were grown on limestone soils called "caillottes", and hence, where the wine gets its name from. The grapes have southern and south-western exposure to the sun. The vines are between 6-40 years of age and were managed according to organic principles to produce grapes that reveal its terroir. After harvesting, the grapes are brought to the winery and immediately pneumatically pressed and cold settled for between 48 and 72 hours. It undergoes a long, temperature-controlled fermentation using natural yeasts, followed by ageing on heavy lees. After fining and filtering, the wine is bottled at the estate using their own facilities.

The 2020 growing season was the warmest ever recorded in the Loire Valley. However, periods of intense rain helped fully replenish the soils. March and April were alternately warm and cool, while late April and May were warm; July began cool, but turned very warm, while August was hot. There were some welcomed rains at the end of August, leading to fine September weather. Overall, 2020 is an excellent vintage with wines having concentration, freshness, and poise. Let's see how this 2020 Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

JEAN-MAX ROGER CUVÉE LES CAILLOTTES SANCERRE 2020 - AC, Loire, France (#65573) (XD) - $35.95
100% Sauvignon Blanc. Fresh, fragrant, open, and highly aromatic on the nose with lovely lemon citrus, quince, pear, and spring flower aromas with a fine, flinty mineral underpinning. It is medium to medium-full bodied on the well-structured, dry, and ripe palate with deliciously elegant lemon citrus, stone fruit, apple, quince, and pear replays, plus spicy notes, herbs, and flinty mineral flavours. It is impeccably well-balanced throughout with crisp, juicy acidity, while minerally, herbal, and stone fruit characters linger on the finish, with excellent length. Wow. Highly recommended buy! Score: 93 pts

Other lovely wines by Jean-Max Roger can be purchased at the LCBO or through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Valmoissine Pinot Noir 2021 (Provence) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is a lovely Pinot Noir produced by the famed Burgundian producer Maison Louis Latour. However, this red wine is not from Burgundy, but instead from the Var appellation in Provence and was featured on the cover of the most recent LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection on March 18th.

Maison Louis Latour has a long history in wine that begins in 1731 when they acquired their first, and some of the top, vineyards in Burgundy. This wine, however, is from their Domaine in Provence called Domaine de Valmoissine and they have been cultivating Pinot Noir at this site since 1989.

The Valmoissine project was launched in the mid-1980s, not long after initial trials with Chardonnay in Ardèche were successful. As these trials were conducted in collaboration with a wine cooperative in Haut Var, Louis Latour soon began the search for their own land to establish their own estate and in 1990 they planted their first vines - 35 hectares in the village of Aups, in an area that had never been planted with vines. The domaine gets its name from the former collegiate church of Valmoissine which stood nearby from the year 900 up to the 15th century. Domaine de Valmoissine is situated in the heart of a region of rolling valleys, close to the Verdon Gorges, and on the site of the former monastery at 500 metres above sea level.

Today, Domaine to Valmoissine spans 100 hectares and the combination of clay and limestone soils with a fully south-facing aspect was important in the selection of this site where the conditions are similar to their terroir of choice - the Hill of Corton in Burgundy, the perfect terroir for the Burgundian grape variety of Pinot Noir. This area experiences a southern climate with hot, sunny days, and cool nights which allows the Pinot Noir grapes to brave the high temperatures of summer. The seasons are well defined in this area with hot summers and cold winters, while the southerly exposure and higher altitude limit the risk of spring frost.

The vineyard management and winemaking techniques used by Maison Latour in Var are identical to those used in Burgundy, with the objective of producing a refined and elegant wine of irreproachable quality. Yields are kept low to ensure good maturity and aromatic concentration of the grapes. The wines are crafted at the former Cave La Verdière, an old wine co-operative that was purchased by Maison Latour, and the vats were completely renewed in 1997 to provide the best possible conditions for the creation of an exceptional wine.

The grapes for this particular Pinot Noir were grown on the clay and limestone soils of the Verdon Hills in Provence, from vines averaging 15 years old. It was hand-picked and mechanically harvested, and completely de-stemmed upon arrival at the winery. It was fermented traditionally in open vats and followed by gentle pneumatic pressing. The free-run juice and the pressed wine were re-assembled and aged in stainless steel vats for 10 to 12 months. Cultivated in the contrasting climate of the Verdon Hills, the elegance of Pinot Noir is revealed in this wine by the application of the finest winemaking skills of Burgundy. Let's see how this 2021 Pinot Noir from Var in Provence is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

VALMOISSINE PINOT NOIR 2021 - IGP Var, Provence, France (#714451) (XD) - $25.95
This unoaked, 100% Pinot Noir has a medium-high intensity nose offering attractive aromas of sour dark red cherry, spice, dark currant, strawberry, forest floor, and earthy minerality, with hints of tea leaf and dried herbs emerging with time in the glass. On the medium+ bodied palate it delivers spiced dark berries, cherry, currant, and forest floor replays on the flavour profile. It has fresh, juicy acidity and light, slightly grippy and youthful tannins that offer a pleasing textural mouthfeel. Nicely balanced throughout with dark berry, sour cherry and forest floor notes lingering on the long, succulent finish. Quite impressive and a highly recommended buy! Score: 90 pts

Other lovely wines by Louis Latour are available through the LCBO, and through their Agent - Mark Anthony Wine & Spirits.

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