M. Chapoutier Bila-Haut Occultum Lapidem 2018 (Roussillon) - Wine Review

After enjoying the excellent 2017 M. Chapoutier Bila-Haut Occultum Lapidem around this time last year, tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of this perennially lovely wine from Roussillon that arrived at the LCBO last weekend as part of the LCBO VINTAGES Release on April 30th.

It is produced by Maison M. Chapoutier, one of the iconic names in northern Rhône Valley winemaking whose roots go back to the year 1808 in Rue de l'Hermitage in Tain. Marius Chapoutier joined the company in 1897 and had complete control of the winery by the 1920's. Passed down through the generations, M. Chapoutier is led today by the highly acclaimed winemaker Michel Chapoutier who took control of operations in 1990. Michel has a passion for the environment, thirst for knowledge, and drive for innovation, and began applying biodynamic cultivation techniques in the year 2000, the same year Chapoutier expanded into Roussillon.

Domaine de Bila-Haut was Michel's first domain in Roussillon. It is located in Latour de France on a bend in the Agly river. The had an intense, forceful, and sometimes violent past, but also has contoured terraces with stony soils and rich geology. The climate is climate is Mediterranean with long, hot summers, and relatively mild winters, while experiencing more sunshine over the course of a year than any other part of France. This Occultum Lapidem wine was the first expression of this terroir and is a blend of mainly Syrah and Grenache, plus some Carignan, all grown in a vineyard with gneiss and schistous soils from the Devonian Period (approx. 400 million ago) and limestone from Kimmeridgian Period (approx. 150 million years ago). The grapes were hand-harvested, non-pressed, and de-stemmed prior to fermentation. It was aged entirely in concrete tanks.

In 2018, Chapoutier reports that they (finally!) had perfect water balance for an outstanding vintage. Rainfall had been scarce in Roussillon since 2014, but in 2018 the exceptional rainfall arrived at opportune times. September was also noteworthy with average daytime temperatures reaching 30°C, along with cool nights, and no tramontane wind but a light sea breeze. This allowed the grapes to gradually ripen and reach phenolic maturity, resulting in wines with freshness, aromatic complexity, and lower alcohol content, all characters worthy of a great year in Roussillon. In this particular wine, the schist soils provided suppleness, while the Syrah offered sophisticated spiciness, and Grenache grown in limestone soils gave the wine exceptional structure. Let's see how this 2018 wine from Roussillon is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

M. CHAPOUTIER BILA-HAUT OCCULTUM LAPIDEM 2018 - AP Côtes du Roussillon-Villages
Latour-de-France, France (#643239) (XD) - $26.95
Matured in concrete tanks, this blend of mainly Syrah and Grenache, plus Carignan has a medium-high to highly aromatic nose with lovely, ripe wild berry aromas in the shades of black-red-blue, joined by plum, peppery spice, and dried herb, and underlying meaty and minerally notes. It's medium-full bodied with lovely raspberry, blackberry, pepper, and mineral flavours with hints of violet. It's got fresh acidity and smooth, supple, and lightly structured tannins. Raspberry, wild berry, and meaty flavoured, tapering to a long, minerally, and very satisfying finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 92 pts

Other lovely wines by M. Chapoutier are available at the LCBO and through their Agent - Dandurand.