Tenuta Fratelli Povero Terre del Conte Roero Arneis 2019 (Piedmont) - Wine Review

To celebrate Earth Day, tonight's wine review is a lovely white wine made with the Arneis varietal from its native home in Piedmont and arrived at the LCBO last weekend as part of the feature on wines from Piedmont in the LCBO VINTAGES Release on April 17.

It is produced by Cantine Povero, a family that has been winemaking on the lands of Roero, Monferrato, and Langhe in Piedmont for almost 200 years. In 1948, Grandfather Tumlin planted his first vineyard and felt a strong emotional bond towards the land and pride to continue the traditions of his ancestors, whose roots go back to 1837.

In 1976, the sons of Tumlin, brothers Giovanni and Michelino Povero acquired their current headquarters in Cisterna d'Asti, at the foot of a medieval castle in Piedmont and planted 10 hectares of vineyards to expand their production. In 1987, Giovanni's three sons founded Tenuta Fratelli Povero where they produce wines from the best grapes of the oldest vineyards in the Roero area. The winery was renovated in 1998, and in 2010 they installed an innovative photovoltaic system that satisfies most of their energy needs with renewable sources. Dedicated to both tradition and innovation, the 3rd and 4th generation of the family is leading the winery into the future with a strong commitment to nature, while also transforming its fruits into wines that delight.

The name 'Arneis' literally translates into 'little rascal' in Piemontese and is so called because this varietal is somewhat difficult to grow. However, it has found a home in the hills of the Roero, northwest of Alba, where it is part of the DOCG wines of Roero. This particular Arneis comes from Tenuta Fratelli Povero's own organic vineyards in the hilly, sandy, and clayey soils of Roero. The grapes were manually harvested and fermented in stainless steel tanks, while also spending 2-3 months sur lie. Let's see how this Arneis is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

TENUTA FRATELLI POVERO TERRE DEL CONTE ROERO ARNEIS 2019 - DOCG, Piedmont, Italy (#436915) (XD) - $17.95
This organically grown Arneis has a medium+ intensity nose that leads with mineral followed by lovely ripe, lemon citrus, green apple, and yellow floral with delicate hints of honey. The medium-bodied, ripe palate is creamy and dry with honeyed notes of floral, citrus, pear, and apple and subtle spice flavours. It has very good, well-balanced acidity with notes of oyster shell minerality, lemon, apple, and pear lingering on the juicy finish, with very good length. Lovely! Score: 89 pts

Other lovely wines from Cantine Povero can be ordered through their Agent - Rare Earth Wines.

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Domaine de Côtes Rémont 2018 (Beaujolais) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a lovely Gamay from the Chénas Cru in Beaujolais, France. This red wine is a new arrival to the LCBO that landed on shelves across Ontario as part of the April 17 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Domaine de Côtes Rémont is a small family estate in the north of Beaujolais, in the town of Chénas. The Estate had been practicing polyculture for more than 250 years until devoting itself to viticulture in the middle of the 20th century. In this green setting on steep slopes above the La Mauvaise river, they have 4 hectares of vines at 350 metres above sea level with exposure to the south and southwest. The family has a desire to craft authentic wines, while also having respect for nature and the environment. They practice sustainable viticulture and is committed to leaving the land in a better condition for future generations.

Located in northern Beaujolais, Chénas (pronounced Shay-nah) is the smallest of the 10 Beaujolais Crus. The area was once filled with dense oak forests that were gradually cut down first by the Gallo-Romans, then monasteries, and finally under orders by Philippe V., all of the remaining trees on the slopes of Mont Rémont were cut down and replaced with vines. By the 18th century, the vineyards in Chénas were producing highly valued that were exported to Paris and a favourite of Louis XIII.

This particular bottling is 100% Gamay from a 4 hectare contiguous site on steep slopes on the western side of Chénas with granite soils, from vines that are nearly 40 years of age. Let's see how this lovely Gamay is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

DOMAINE DE CÔTES RÉMONT 2018 - AP Chénas, Beaujolais, France (#18368) (XD) - $20.95
This 100% Gamay pours a fairly deep ruby-purple colour. The medium-high intensity nose is rich, complex, and ripe with cran-cherry, raspberry, strawberry, blackberry, and spice aromas. The light-to-medium bodied palate has ripe, tangy red fruits, raspberry, plum, cran-cherry, and currant flavours with subtle spice and floral notes. There is fresh, juicy acidity and some structure to the light tannins. Tangy red fruits with spice and floral notes linger on the long, structured finish. Enjoy this highly recommended buy over the next 5+ years. Score: 90 pts

Other lovely wines by Domaine de Côtes Rémont can be ordered through their Agent - Rare Earth Wines.

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Bayle-Carreau Château Landreau 2016 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a lovely Right Bank Bordeaux that arrived at the LCBO for the first time this weekend as part of the April 17, 2021 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

It is produced Vignobles Bayle-Carreau, two families that have been cultivating vines in Bordeaux for more than 150 years. Both families share a passion for wine and excellence, with the Carreau family having profound knowledge of the vine that has been passed down from generation to generation, while the Bayle family has the expertise in winemaking.

The Carreau family's venture into viticulture began in 1852, while the Bayle family purchased their first estate in 1910. Bayle-Carreau was formed in 1952 when Jeanne-Marie, daughter of André Bayle, married Claude Carreau. With this union, the families combined their knowledge and expertise and further expanded their estates.

In 1955, the Bayle-Carreau family acquired Château Landreau, a property located on the first watershed of the Côtes de Bourg on the right bank of the Gironde estuary, around the town of Bourg-sur-Gironde, just northwest of the city of Bordeaux. The family restored and renovated Château Landreau after the property had ceased producing wine following the frost of 1956. The soils at Château Landreau consist of deep clay mixed with red gravel and has southwest exposure to the sun - conditions which are suitable for Merlot. With respect for the environment, Bayle-Carreau also practices sustainable viticulture at Château Landreau.

This red wine is from 14 hectare estate of Château Landreau and consists of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. It was fermented in stainless steel tanks, following by further ageing in tank for 6 months, then aged in oak barrels for 12 to 14 months prior to bottling. It is interesting to know that 95% of this wine is sold locally in Bordeaux, leaving just 5% for export markets. I would say we are quite fortunate to have this land in Ontario. From a remarkable vintage, let's see how this delicious Bordeaux is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

BAYLE-CARREAU CHÂTEAU LANDREAU 2016 - AC Côtes de Bourg, Bordeaux, France (#18535) (XD) - $20.95
This blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon has a medium-high intensity nose that is rich and concentrated with aromas of ripe dark currant, dark plum, and savoury earth aromas with touches of wood, cassis, and herbs. It's medium-to-full bodied on the palate with flavours of black cherry, dark berry, plum, blackberry, currant, and cassis alongside subtle savoury earth and spice, plus spearmint notes adding further interest with time in the glass. It has fresh, balanced acidity and well-structured tannins that have a subtle chalky grip. Very good length with black cherry and hints of mineral on the finish. Drinking well now and should continue to develop nicely until the late '20s. Recommended buy. Score: 90 pts

Other lovely wines from Vignobles Bayle-Carreau can be ordered through their Agent - Connexion Oenophilia.

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Great Italian Wines - Understanding Indigenous Grape Varieties - Montepulciano & Aglianico

After exploring Sangiovese & Vernaccia di San Gimignano last month as part of the masterclass series on "Great Italian Wines - Understanding Indigenous Grape Varieties", on Thursday I attended the 3rd part in the series which focused on the varieties Montepulciano & Aglianico.

Montepulciano has been cultivated since the late 1700s, and likely even earlier during the time of the Etruscans. Today, Montepulciano is the second most widely planted varietal in Italy, right after Sangiovese. It is planted mainly in central Italy, predominantly in Abruzzo, as well as the regions of Marche, Molise. and Puglia.

The most famous Montepulciano wines comes from the Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC. Montepulciano is a high-yielding grape that thrives in area of Abruzzo, in central Italy, along the eastern Adriatic coast. Abruzzo is considered the Greenest Region of Europe and also has 2nd highest mountain range in Europe with Mount Majella rising to 2,793 metres.

Winemaking traditions in Abruzzo date back to the 6th century BC and today produce the 5th most wine by volume in Italy. Montepulciano is produced in each of Abruzzo's provinces - L'Aquila (Capital), Chieti, Pescara, and Teramo - and over half of the 32,000 hectares of vines are planted to this varietal. Montepulciano has a blue-purple skin colour with a high concentration of inky coloured pigment. It is late-ripening and thick-skinned, yet produces wines with softer tannins and lower acidity. Montepulciano d'Abruzzo was designated a DOC in 1968 and requires at least 85% of the wine to be made with Montepulciano and no more than 15% of Sangiovese. The wine I tasted as part of this masterclass is 100% Montepulciano.

Aglianico is considered to be the Barolo of the South and the best examples are produced in Basilicata and Campania. The wine tasted in this masterclass is from Basilicata, a region located in the instep of the boot of Italy and borders Campania, Puglia, and Calabria between the Adriatic, Ionian and Tyrrhenian coasts. The mountainous region has been occupied by humans for many thousands of years and includes an extinct volcano - Mount Vulture - that rises to 1,326 metres above sea level.

Established in 1971, Aglianico del Vulture DOC is the most significant winemaking region of Basilicata. Only 2,400 hectares are cultivated, all on volcanic soils derived from Mount Vulture, and Aglianico is the only permitted grape within this DOC. The best examples of Aglianico del Vulture DOC wines are grown between 350 to 500 metres above sea level.

The Aglianico grape has a dark blue-black colour and is thick-skinned. It is a late-ripening variety that can be harvested into November and is low-yielding. Aglianico requires abundant sunshine and dry climates, while thriving on steep slopes, high altitudes, and volcanic soils. Aglianico del Vulture wines tend to be full-bodied and structured with firm tannins, and are very age-worthy.

As with previous masterclasses in the series, both of the wines are available by the case through their Agent - Cavinona. Use special discount code ICCOAPRIL for 10% off any case purchase until May 15th. These wines can also be purchased by the bottle at their bottle shops - contact Cavinona directly for details.

The small bites I enjoyed as part of the tasting package included some Grana Padano DOP and Pecorino Toscano DOP cheese, as well as A Però Carciofi e Olive (mixed artichokes and olives), and Focaccia - a traditional Italian flat oven-baked bread made by Luca Rotatori, the Head Baker at Spaccio, Terroni's central kitchen.

I very much enjoyed this tasting series and hope to attend the next online masterclasses in June and September. For more details and to register, please visit the Italian Chamber of Commerce of Ontario Canada.

@trueitaliantaste #ExtraordinaryItalianTaste #TrueItalianTaste #iffoodcouldtalk

Tasting Notes:

TORRE DEI BEATI MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO 2018 - DOC, Abruzzo, Italy (XD) - $31.50
100% Montepulciano grown on clay-limestone soils at 250 to 300 metres above sea level, and aged mainly in French oak barriques for 15-18 months. The medium-high intensity nose has rustic, peppery spice, black raspberry, earthy, and black plum aromas with touches of balsamic and barnyard. It's light-to-medium bodied with fresh, vibrant acidity and spicy flavours of dark berry, black raspberry, earth, and balsamic. It has very smooth, refined tannins, while pleasing savoury-earthy notes with touches of balsamic and coffee linger on the long, balanced, juicy finish. Score: 90 pts

GRIFALCO AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE 2018 - DOC, Basilicata, Italy (XD) - $36.02
Organically grown 100% Aglianico from vines 25-40 years old, at 450 to 550 metres above sea level, and aged mostly in stainless steel tanks. Very pretty, medium-high intensity aromas of sweet spice, incense, and rose floral with underlying dark berry and smoky, earthy mineral aromas. On the medium-full to full-bodied palate it has lovely red and black cherry, wet earth, baking spice flavours supported by balanced acidity. Chalky, structured tannins are a bit tight at this stage. Savoury with mineral and touches of barnyard notes on the long finish. Enjoyable now, but will be even better after 3+ years in the cellar. Score: 91+ pts

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April 17, 2021 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: Sustainable + Piedmont

The major theme of the April 17, 2021 LCBO VINTAGES Release focuses on Sustainable Wines from around the world, while the mini-theme looks at wines from Piedmont. All of these wines, plus those from the rest of the Release should be on shelves across Ontario by Saturday.

We begin with the main theme on Sustainable Wines from around the world. Of the nineteen wines featured, four are included among my top wine picks. The concept of Sustainability is broken down into three areas of impact - in the vineyard, in the winery, and within the community. The Fumé Blanc from Niagara is an organic wine that consists of primarily Sauvignon Blanc aged in oak barrels (and concrete eggs), as well as a splash of Semillon. Villa Maria has many sustainability initiatives as it is a core value of this quality producer, and their Sauvignon Blanc from Wairau Valley is definitely a worthy buy. The last two wines that follow sustainability principles are the Rasteau that is a GSM blend consisting of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Mourvèdre, and the Gran Selezione Chianti Classico is a blend of 97% Sangiovese and 3% Abrusco.

From the feature on Piedmont wines, four of the nine wines listed are included among my top wine recommendations. While Piedmont is mostly known for their red wines, there are some fine white wines as well. After Moscato Bianco, the top still white wine grapes are Cortese and Arneis. In this Release, the wine from Gavi is made with Cortese, while the best-known examples of Arneis come from Roero. The king of red wine varieties from Piedmont is without a doubt Nebbiolo, but did you know that the Barbera grape is actually the region's most widely planted varietal? You can explore Barbera by Stefano Farina, as well as the relatively rare Grignolino varietal.

There are quite a few French red blends from the rest of the Release. The Bordeaux red is a blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, while the red from Southwest France consists of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and the local varietal Abourriou. From Rhône, the Châteauneuf-du-Pape consists of 50%  Grenache, 35%  Syrah, and 15% Mourvèdre, while the Rioja is a blend of 75% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacha, and 10% Graciano & Mazuelo (Carignan). Single varietal wines include a fine Beaujolais made with Gamay, as well as the maturing wine from Abruzzo that is made with Montepulciano.

Among my white wine recommendations, the only blend is the Greek wine that consists of 75% Assyrtiko, 15% Athiri, and 10% Aidani. For those that prefer slightly sweet wines, you'll want to pick-up the pair of Riesling wines from Niagara to compare and contrast.

Enjoy my wine recommendations from this Release! Cin cin!

Red Wine:

• STEFANO FARINA BARBERA D'ALBA 2018 - DOC, Piedmont, Italy (#10601) (XD) - $17.95
• GÉRARD BERTRAND GRENACHE/SYRAH/MOURVÈDRE 2018 - AP Corbières, Languedoc, France (#394288) (XD) - $17.95
• ACCORNERO BRICCO DEL BOSCO GRIGNOLINO MONFERRATO CASALESE 2019 - DOC, Piedmont, Italy (#426635) (XD) - $19.95
• DOMAINE DE CÔTES RÉMONT 2018 - AP Chénas, Beaujolais, France (#18368) (XD) - $20.95  90 pts  wine review
• DOMAINE DE BEYSSAC INITIAL 2016 - Unfined and unfiltered, AP Côtes du Marmandais, Southwest, France (#18367) (XD) - $20.95
• BAYLE-CARREAU CHÂTEAU LANDREAU 2016 - AC Côtes de Bourg, Bordeaux, France (#18535) (XD) - $20.95  90 pts  wine review
• CASTORANI AMORINO MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO 2013 - DOC, Abruzzo, Italy (#366732) (XD) - $24.95  89 pts  wine review
• DOMAINE DE L'ESPIGOUETTE PAS DE MEUNIER RASTEAU 2017 - AC, Rhône, France (#18797) (XD) - $24.95
• CHÂTEAU FORTIA CUVÉE DU BARON CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2017 - Sustainable, AC, Rhône, France (#959999) (XD) - $51.95
• BARONE RICASOLI CASTELLO DI BROLIO GRAN SELEZIONE CHIANTI CLASSICO 2016 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#942607) (XD) - $59.95
• R. LÓPEZ DE HEREDIA VIÑA TONDONIA RESERVA 2008 - DOCa Rioja, Spain (#356337) (XD) - $63.95

White Wine:

• TENUTA FRATELLI POVERO TERRE DEL CONTE ROERO ARNEIS 2019 - DOCG, Piedmont, Italy (#436915) (XD) - $17.95  89 pts  wine review
• LA GIUSTINIANA TERRE ANTICHE GAVI DI GAVI 2019 - DOCG, Piedmont, Italy (#17658) (XD) - $18.95
• RADFORD DALE VINUM CHENIN BLANC 2018 - WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#13338) (XD) - $18.95  90+ pts  wine review
• JULES TAYLOR SAUVIGNON BLANC 2019 - Sustainable, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#224428) (XD) - $19.95
• CAVE SPRING ESTATE RIESLING 2018 - VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#286377) (D) - $19.95
• CHARLES BAKER B-SIDE RIESLING 2018 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#523845) (D) - $21.95
• VILLA MARIA WAIRAU VALLEY RESERVE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2019 - Sustainable, Wairau Valley, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#536201) (XD) - $24.95  90+ pts  wine review
• NYKTERI SANTORINI 2018 - PDO, Greece (#18923) (XD) - $27.95  FE
• HIDDEN BENCH FUMÉ BLANC 2019 - Rosomel Vineyard, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#68825) (XD) - $29.95
• TESCH KRONE RIESLING TROCKEN 2018 - Qualitätswein, Nahe, Germany (#18253) (XD) - $34.95

Sparkling Wine:

• CAVE SPRING BLANC DE BLANCS BRUT SPARKLING - Traditional method, VQA Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#213983) (XD) - $29.95

Fortified:

• GRAHAM'S QUINTA DOS MALVEDOS 2009 - Bottled in 2011, DOP, Portugal (#18363) (S) - $59.95  FE

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Planeta Frappato Vittoria 2018 (Sicily) - Wine Review

Tonight's wine review is a lovely red wine made with the rare Frappato varietal from Sicily that arrived at the LCBO recently as part of the April 3, 2021 LCBO VINTAGES Release.

With a heritage of seventeen generations, Planeta is one of Sicily's historic wine producers. The family has been involved with the course of agricultural evolution over five centuries in the complex land of Sicily, with an approach always inclined to openness and innovation. During the 1900's, Grandfather Vito led the path towards new solutions and new prospects. In Menfi, he transformed the small family winery into a large co-operative winery in a short period of time.

In 1985, they planted their first vines next to the fortress of Ulmo, eventually growing to 50 hectares of vines and created a wine in 1995 that opened doors to the whole world. This success led to further research of the indigenous varieties of Sicily. They travelled across the island, from Menfi to Vittoria to Noto to Etna, and finally to Capo Milazzowith with the idea of producing each wine in its own territory. In 1997, they planted their first vines at Vittoria, where this red wine is from. Today, two generations of the family - including brothers and sisters, children, nieces and nephews - work together with a vision of unity, a love for the land, and a desire to protect it by using a sustainable, long-term viticultural approach to winemaking.

Frappato is a red wine grape that is genetically close to Sangiovese and ten other Italian red wine varieties, suggesting that it is a cross between Sangiovese and another varietal. It is more commonly used in blends, can be found on its own as well. Frappato is primarily grown in Sicily, with the best expressions coming from the red sands of Vittoria (where this wine is from) in southern Sicily, not far from the sea.

The first vintage of this Frappato was 2013, and it hails from Planeta's Dorilli winery in Vittoria. This Frappato was cultivated from only a few hectares of their Mogli vineyard in the commune of Acate, within the province of Ragusa, that mainly consists of loose red sand with no stones, and a layer of tufa below that is important for the water balance of the vines. Being close to the sea, the vineyard is only 70 metres above sea level. Let's see how the lighter bodied Frappato is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

PLANETA FRAPPATO VITTORIA 2018 - DOC, Sicily, Italy (#508655) (XD) - $24.95
100% Frappato that was raised entirely in stainless steel vats has a pretty, pale ruby colour. The medium-high intensity nose offers lovely red cherry and strawberry aromas alongside gentle spice, floral, and smoky notes. It is light-to-medium bodied on the palate with impressive concentration and structure. More red cherry, strawberry and white pepper spice with savoury undertones on the flavour profile. It has fresh acidity and light tannins that have a pleasant textural grip. Smoky and red berry notes linger on the long, chalky, and very satisfying finish. Must try! Score: 91 pts

Other lovely wines from Planeta can be found at the LCBO, as well as through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Laura Hartwig Single Vineyard Carménère 2018 (Chile) - Wine Review

After enjoying the lovely 2017 Laura Hartwig Edición de Familia back in November, tonight's wine review is another fine offering from Laura Hartwig that arrived at the LCBO last weekend as part of the April 3rd LCBO VINTAGES Release.

Osvaldo Bisquertt purchased the property in 1928 to cultivate annual crops and raise cattle. In 1966, his daughter Laura Bisquert inherited the "Santa Laura" farm and further expanded the estate with her husband Alejandro Hartwig. In the 1970's, while the Hartwig family lived in Toronto and Montreal, Alejandro Hartwig (Sr.) took wine courses and developed a passion for wine, eventually deciding to establish a winery back in Chile as their active retirement project. In 1978, Laura Hartwig Premium Wines was borne when they planted their first vines in the Colchagua Valley. Today, Alejandro Hartwig Jr. has also joined the family project as winegrower.

This Single Vineyard Carménère is Laura Hartwig's top selling wine from the Colchagua Valley. It is crafted using grapes, which were planted in 2000, from the Block "Isla" at the Laura Hartwig Estate in Santa Cruz, the heart of Colchagua Valley. This site has clay loam soils on the surface with sand deposits located much deeper in the ground. The grapes were hand-harvested and sorted, then vinified in stainless steel tanks, followed by ageing in French oak barrels for 12 months. The 2018 vintage Chile was considered to be brilliant in terms of quality and quantity. Let's see how this Chilean Carménère is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

LAURA HARTWIG SINGLE VINEYARD CARMÉNÈRE 2018 - DO Colchagua Valley, Chile (#213512) (XD) - $15.95
Aged in French oak barrels for 12 months, this 100% Carménère has a fragrant nose offering aromas of herbaceous and grilled red pepper notes joined by blackberry and touches of vanilla, chocolate, and walnut. On the medium-bodied palate it has vanilla-infused flavours of grilled red pepper, herbs, and black cherry. Acids are fresh and well-balanced, while the polished tannins have a fine-grained texture. Chocolatey oak, black cherry, and red pepper notes linger on the juicy, balanced finish, with very good length. Enjoy over the next 2-3 years. Score: 88 pts

While you might find a couple of other wines from Laura Hartwig at the LCBO, your best bet is to contact their Agent - Profile Wine Group.

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