Aganis Di Flabe Ribolla Gialla 2023 (Friuli) - Wine Review

With the first day of Spring arriving a couple of days ago, tonight's white wine review is a lovely Ribolla Gialla, a brand-new wine that arrived at LCBO outlets last weekend in the March 15 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Aganis Wine Company, a new winery project formed in 2022 by three brothers - Simone, Fabio, and Alessio Cecchetto. The Cecchetto brothers and their family are not new to the wine industry, as they also own the Treviso-based Ca' di Rajo family farm. Situated within the commune of Treppo Grande, Udine, in the region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, the name 'Aganis' is a tribute to the territory and is a dialect term for 'agane', female figures from Alpine mythology that are particularly well-known in Carnia, Friuli. Aganis is located at the foot of the Carnia peaks, near San Daniele. It is here that the brothers want to create an entrance to the Carnic Valleys where passersby can stop and contemplate nature and offer a sensory escape to those visiting Cormor botanical park, riding the Alpe Adria Cycle Route, or the nearby horse trail.

The essence of Aganis are the Friulian wines of Collio Orientale. While they seek to be pragmatic, they also want to speak from the heart and convey emotions, sensations, and memories that evoke the nuances and scents of Collio Friulano. The company's philosophy places the enhancement of the Friulian territory and culture at the centre of its business, with a modern and sustainable approach. Their aim is to convey the authenticity of Friuli, while also speaking through their wines, so wine drinkers can experience Friuli's perpetual spring, when the sun warms the skin, and life is eager to begin a new season.

Aganis' focus for the future is the environment and sustainability. The area surrounding the winery represents a treasure that must be protected by implementing integrated pest management protocols. Furthermore, the exploitation of soil and the reckless use of chemicals threaten the ecological balance of the ecosystem of the hills that Aganis is a part of. Some of Aganis' sustainable initiatives include the reduction in pesticides, innovation in the management of cellar operations, recovering and re-using waste water, and increasing energy efficiency through the installation of a photovoltaic system.

This white wine is crafted using Ribolla Gialla, an indigenous white grape variety that represents Friuli. It is named 'Di Flabe', which means 'fairytale-like' in Friulian, and fully reflects the world of Aganis, magic, and legend, while also enhancing freshness and immediacy. The grapes were grown in the slim Friuli Colli Orientali DOC in the northeastern corner of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, between 200–250 metres above sea level. The soil in this area is called Ponca, and consists of alternating layers of marl (calcareous clays), which absorbs water and is texturally soft, and sandstone (calcified sands), which is hard and impervious. The vines were trained using a double overturned and Guyot system. After harvesting the grapes in September, they were softly pressed and fermented at 15–17°C with selected yeasts. For maturation, 20% of the wine was aged in barriques for 4 months.

The 2023 growing season in Italy was the warmest year ever recorded in Italy. In Friuli, it began with a very warm March that was warmer than average, followed by a chill in April. May was wet throughout, which led to a step-up in the fight against downy and mildew. In July, temperatures continued to be high, while rains did not let up, and included two bouts of hail. From a complicated vintage where the lessons on the importance of prevention were paramount, let's see how this 2023 Ribolla Gialla from Friuli is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

AGANIS DI FLABE RIBOLLA GIALLA 2023 - DOC Colli Orientali del Friuli, Italy (#39744) (XD) - $22.95
The fresh, medium-high intensity nose is very pretty, evoking spring flowers layered over ripe lemon citrus, orchard fruit, apple, pear, white peach, and honeysuckle aromas, plus touches of ripe tropical fruit. It's medium+ bodied with good weight and concentration. Dry and slightly honeyed with lovely floral, lemon citrus, ripe apple-pear, and white peach flavours nuanced with mild spice and leesy notes adding savoury complexities. Fleshy and almost rich mouthfeel, acids are well-balanced and juicy. Gently spicy with citrus, orchard fruit, floral flavours tapering to leesy notes on the long finish. Ideal with fish, enjoy this highly recommended buy on any fine Spring day! Score: 90+ pts

Other fine wines by Aganis can be ordered through their Agent - Rare Earth Wines.

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Antech Réserve M Le Mauzac Extra Brut Blanquette de Limoux 2022 (Languedoc) - Wine Review

Tonight's sparkling wine review is a lovely Blanquette de Limoux crafted in the traditional method using the Mauzac varietal. This bubbly was featured as part of the theme on Women in Wine in the recent March 1st LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and is widely available at LCBO outlets across Ontario.

It is produced by Maison Antech, a family-owned winery that has been passionately producing traditional method sparkling wines for seven generations on the hillsides of the Limoux wine region of Languedoc. Each generation has contributed their energy and passed down their exceptional know-how from one generation to the next, with women playing a central role and demonstrating a strength of character each step of the way.

The estate winery was initially established by the Tisseyre-Limouzy family in the late-19th century. Early in the 20th century, the estate was run by Eugénie Limouzy, a dynamic, courageous, and modern woman who lived through wars unbowed to ensure the winery's long-term survival. Eugénie was one of the first women in Languedoc to manage a vineyard. In 1930, Eugénie's niece, Marguerite, married fellow vintner Edmond Antech, merging two winemaking families and giving birth to the Antech name that still stands today.

In 1965, brothers Georges and Roger, the sons of Edmond and Marguerite, took over the reins of the estate. By the 1970s, the brothers had decided to focus on producing only sparkling wines. Joining the estate in 1996 was Françoise, Georges' daughter and the sixth generation of the family. Françoise carried on the family tradition and has played an instrumental role in elevating Maison Antech into one of the region's top sparkling wine producers.

The family has cultivated the land in Limoux since 1860, a land with a unique terroir where the freshness of the Pyrenees mountain range mixes with the Mediterranean climate. Maison Antech is situated at an altitude of 400 metres above sea level, where the vines enjoy ideal growing conditions such as natural drainage, high diurnal temperature ranges between day and night, and the cool breezes coming off the snowy Pyrenees slopes until May. These growing conditions promote the vivacity and tension necessary to produce wines with great effervescence.

With the seventh generation of the family, Françoise's son, Baptiste, also now working at the winery, Maison Antech has been actively engaged in using a sustainable approach to viticulture and winemaking that respects the environment and takes advantage of the omnipresent winds coming off the hillsides. Their efforts are directed towards the development of the Mauzac grape varietal, which is perfectly suited to this microclimate in Limoux. Antech crafts their wines using a minimalist approach, allowing the place to reflect itself without. All the grapes are carefully hand-harvested in order to respect the quality of the grape and preserve freshness. To vinify their wines, the grapes are slowly and delicately pressed, and fermented at low temperatures. The wines spend the winter on their lees, then age for a prolonged period to reveal their complexity. Depending on the wine, dosage is added.

From a very good vintage in Limoux, let's see how this 2022 Blanquette de Limoux sparkling wine is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ANTECH RÉSERVE M LE MAUZAC EXTRA BRUT BLANQUETTE DE LIMOUX 2022 - Traditional method, AP, Languedoc, France (#656470) (D) - $21.95
The fragrant, medium-high intensity nose offers a fresh, fine, and elegant mix of ripe lemon citrus, yellow & white floral toasty, autolytic, brioche, and leesy mineral aromas, plus touches of stone fruit, apple, and pear. It's light-to-mid-weighted, dry, and gently honeyed with lovely lemon citrus, brioche, toasty, floral, leesy, and stone fruit flavours supported by crisp acidity and bubbles. Leesy, stony mineral, and toasty notes linger on the crisp, dry, and lengthy finish. Versatile for pairing with food and a highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

Other lovely sparkling wines by Maison Antech can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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El Goru Gold Mad Hairy Fella Monastrell / Syrah / Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (Spain) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of a lovely, vegan-friendly Monastrell-based blend from Jumilla (Spain) that arrived at the LCBO earlier this month in the March 1st LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

It is produced by Ego Bodegas, a winery project that was established from scratch in 2011 by the husband-and-wife team of Santos Ortiz and Ioana Paunescu. Santos is of Spanish origin, while Ioana was from Romania, and together they settled in the Jumilla wine region of Spain, not far from the historical centre of Jumilla. The project was borne out of their passion and effort, with a vision to produce high-quality wines that showcase the unique terroir of Jumilla.

Santos and Ioana built the winery together, not from the bottom up, but from the roof down, from top to bottom, after they fell in love with a spectacular farm in an elevated area of Jumilla, locally known as the carpenter's place. It was surrounded by old vineyards planted to Monastrell and offered a naturally beautiful landscape. While their business objectives were sales and profitability, they needed to find the right balance to achieve this goal by focusing on the three core concepts of Quality, Image, and Price. In 2013, after two years of hard work, the couple launched their wine brand: Ego Bodegas. The name "Ego Bodegas" is based on the philosophy centred on ego, talento, and infinito - or self, talent, and infinity.

From the beginning, Ego Bodegas has taken a contemporary twist on winemaking by combining traditional methods with modern techniques. They use their modern winemaking facilities to improve quality and efficiency, while striving to seek out the best technology available. With 35 hectares of vineyards planted mostly to native varieties, the winery is focused on producing high-quality wines that reflect the unique terroir of the region. Their focus is mainly on the native Monastrell varietal as it has adapted well to the soil and climatic conditions of Jumilla. The soil in Jumilla is dark and enriched with lime, while also being permeable with good moisture retention, which helps the vines during periods of drought. The climate in the region is continental, arid, and influenced by the Mediterranean Sea to the east and by the plateau of La Mancha to the west, while also receiving more than 3,000 hours of sunshine per year, which makes Jumilla one of the driest areas in Spain. Today, Ego Bodegas crafts their wines with a dedication to innovation, craftsmanship, and excellence in winemaking.

Like the 2019 El Goru Gold I enjoyed last year, this red is predominantly Monastrell (aka Mourvèdre), with this particular vintage including a bit more Monastrell this time, and the final blend consisting of 80% Monastrell, 15% Syrah, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. To craft this wine, all three grape varieties were hand-harvested in 15 kg boxes through a strict selection in the vineyard. The grapes underwent supervised maceration in order to achieve the ideal wine profile, and during the entire process, the pigeage pumping down technique was used in order to favour a slower extraction and a synthesis of varietal aromas. It underwent temperature-controlled fermentation, up to a maximum of 28ºC, in order to extract the full potential of each grape variety. The final wine was blended and aged for 12 months in new French and American oak barrels.

The 2020 growing season in Jumilla and southern Spain was marked by early budding, a rainy spring, and a hot, dry summer, conditions which resulted in an early harvest. Yields in the region were also mostly down due to mildew issues. However, 2020 produced an excellent quality vintage. Let's see how this 2020 Monastrell-based red from Jumilla is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

EL GORU GOLD MAD HAIRY FELLA MONASTRELL / SYRAH / CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 - Vegan, DOP Jumilla, Spain (#13621) (XD) - $18.95
This blend of 80% Monastrell, 15% Syrah, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon is fragrant and open, with a medium+ to medium-high intensity nose that offers ripe black & purple fruits, blackberry, cedary oak, spice, black cherry, and plum aromas with whiffs of reductive notes. On the medium+ to medium-full bodied palate it is dry and spicy with ripe black & purple fruits, cedar oak, plum, black cherry flavours supported by crisp and bright acidity. Touches of licorice and sweet vanillin oak join the party on the mid-palate. Ripe tannins are mildly grippy, with good structure. Ripe black fruits with cedary oak and cocoa notes linger on the long and juicy finish. Recommended buy! Score: 89 pts

A couple of other wines by Ego Bodegas are available at the LCBO, while the full portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Kolonaki Fine Wines & Spirits.

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Alvi's Drift Signature Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (South Africa) - Wine Review

Tonight's white wine review is a delicious Sauvignon Blanc from South Africa that made its debut at the LCBO last month in the February 15 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and is readily available for purchase across Ontario.

It is produced by Alvi's Drift Winery, a family-owned and award-winning winery that was founded in South Africa's Western Cape by Alvi van der Merwe and his wife, Hester, in the early 2000s. The family's patriarch, Albertus Viljoen "Oupa Alvi" van der Merwe, is known for scoring the first try against the All Blacks on African soil in 1928. In 1930, Oupi Alvi commissioned a low-water bridge to be built across the Breede River on their family farm. This bridge was locally christened, and is still known today as "Alvi's Drift", after Oupa Alvi, as he was instrumental in building it. A few years before retiring from rugby, Oupa Alvi acquired a piece of fertile farmland nestled on the banks of the Breede River in the Western Cape's majestic Breede River Valley.

Today, the family farm is in the hands of Alvi van der Merwe, grandson of Oupa. Alvi and Hester turned both the farm and the family legacy of crafting exceptional wines into a vision that surpassed all expectations. Alvi is widely known for being a perfectionist, while also being dedicated and passionate about the winemaking craft. Although he initially studied medicine, his passion for creating world-class wines from this family's vineyards persisted, and in 2003 he returned home from practicing abroad to assist his father, Bertie, with managing the family's orchards, vineyards, and winery.

While Bertie was focused mostly on bulk wine production, Alvi began exploring his passion for winemaking. After one harvest, once Bertie had picked all of his grapes, Alvi was allowed to pick and use any remaining grapes. He put in a lot of effort to create a bit of Chardonnay and Muscat de Frontignan and bought his own barrels and bottles, and actually won quite a few awards with his first wine and Alvi's Drift Winery was born.

Like the delicious 2021 Alvi's Drift Signature Chardonnay I enjoyed about a year and a half ago, this 100% Sauvignon Blanc is also from their Signature Range that offers unpretentious, fruit-driven flavours of exceptional quality at an incredible price point. The grapes were grown in the ideal Mediterranean microclimate of the Western Cape, near the life-giving Breede River, where the vineyards are ideally positioned for producing remarkable wines of unique character and complexity. Alvi’s Drift vineyards are sustainably fertilised with natural compost produced on their own farm, and meticulously managed to ensure optimal quality and flavour. The grapes were selectively hand-harvested in the cool, early morning hours to ensure only the healthiest, perfectly ripe bunches are used for production. To vinify this wine, the winemaking team strongly focuses on preserving the fruit-driven expression of the grapes, and uses only premium free-run juice of the highest quality to create this unwooded wine. To ensure maximum flavour retention, the clarified juice was cold-fermented in stainless steel tanks, and spent a few months on its lees before fining and stabilisation.

The 2023 growing season in South Africa was beset with various challenges, beginning with a relatively mild and dry winter, followed by early budburst and flowering. Summer was cold and wet, which slowed ripening. However, harvest took place at a relatively normal pace. From a good vintage that features wines exhibiting elegant and cool-climate characters, let's see how this 2023 Sauvignon Blanc from South Africa is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

ALVI'S DRIFT SIGNATURE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023 - WO Western Cape, South Africa (#41453) (XD) - $14.95
Screw cap. The reserved, medium intensity nose delivers lemon/lime citrus aromas nuanced with stone fruits, green fruit, and touches of ripe tropical fruit, herbs, gooseberry, and leesy characters. It's medium-full bodied, fairly concentrated, dry, and ripe with slightly honeyed and tangy flavours of lemon/lime citrus, green fruits, stone fruit, and gooseberry joined by some savoury leesy and spice notes. It has fresh, zesty, and tangy acidity, while the tangy mid-palate leads to lemony and savoury earthy mineral notes on the long and juicy finish. This recommended buy will be a fine match with salad. Score: 88+ pts

Other delicious wines by Alvi's Drift Winery can be ordered through their Agent - Churchill Cellars Ltd.

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March 15, 2025 LCBO VINTAGES Release Wine Picks: Sustainable Italian Wines

Here are my top wine picks from the March 15, 2025 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection, which features Sustainable Italian Wines as the main theme of the release, while the mini-theme looks at Stellar Stellenbosch. The release as a whole is very good with ninety-four products on offer at various price points, with all but ten coming in at $40 or less. Also included in this release are nearly a dozen Online & Flagship Exclusives (OFE) wines. All the wines should be available for purchase by Saturday, if not already on shelves (and online) today.

We'll begin with the feature story of the release - Sustainable Italian Wines - where a dozen wines are included as part of the theme and five are among my top wine picks. The two sustainably crafted white wines are a Verdicchio from Marche, and a Grillo from Sicily. The mono-varietal sustainable red wines are the Nero d'Avola from Sicily, and the Chianti Classico, which is made with 100% Sangiovese. The Rosso di Montepulciano from Tuscany is a blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Merlot.

The "mini-theme" is a very, very brief look at wines from Stellenbosch, South Africa. There are only(!) three wines included in the thematic, and my only pick from this group is the Syrah. Why limit the mini-theme to a very slim count of just three wines? I would recommend that mini-thematics should include anywhere from 6 to 8 wines.

Among my top red wine recommendations from the main release, we'll begin with the blends from Iberia, with the Bierzo from Spain consisting of 85% Mencía, 10% white grapes, and 5% other red varieties, while the Alentejano from Portugal is crafted with Trincadeira, Aragonez, Touriga Nacional, and Syrah. The only other red blend is from Roussillon, and it is composed of Grenache, Carignan, and Syrah. Among the single varietal wines, there is an excellent Brunello di Montalcino that is crafted with Sangiovese, while the wine from Castilla y León is 100% Tempranillo. The lovely wine from Greece is Xinomavro, and the Chilean red is Carmenère. On the local front, there are a couple of fine Pinot Noirs from the Bench in the Niagara Escarpment, as well as a Gamay from the Niagara Peninsula.

All of my white wine picks from the rest of the release are mono-varietal wines, with a trio of Chardonnays leading the pack. There are two Chardonnays from Niagara, as well as one from South Africa. For other dry whites, you can go slightly off the beaten path with a fine Ribolla Gialla from Friuli, or the elevated Alvarinho from Vinho Verde. There's also a fine Sauvignon Blanc from Niagara, along with a dry Pinot Gris from New Zealand. If you want a wine with a little sweetness, check out the lovely Niagara Riesling.

Lastly, there is a lovely, fortified wine from Portugal that is very sweet, but balanced, and crafted using the Setubal Moscatel variety, which is also known as Alexandria.

Enjoy my top wine recommendations from this release! Cincin!

Red Wine:

• FLOR DE MAIO MAYFLOWER 2021 - Vegan, Vinho Regional Alentejano, Portugal (#427195) (XD) - $15.95  89 pts  wine review
• GORGHI TONDI COSTE A PREOLA NERO D'AVOLA 2022 - DOC Sicilia, Italy (#39219) (XD) - $17.95  90 pts  wine review
• FEATHERSTONE GAMAY NOIR 2021 - Vegan, VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#39275) (XD) - $18.95  89 pts  wine review
• GLENELLY GLASS COLLECTION SYRAH 2021 - WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (#493841) (XD) - $19.95
• CHÂTEAU SAINT-ROCH CHIMÈRES GRENACHE / CARIGNAN / SYRAH CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON-VILLAGES 2022 - AP, Midi, France (#119354) (XD) - $19.95
• SAN PEDRO 1865 SELECTED VINEYARDS CARMENÈRE 2022 - Las Lagunas, DO Valle de Colchagua, Chile (#249201) (XD) - $20.95  90 pts  wine review
• BOUTARI NAOUSSA XINOMAVRO 2021 - PDO Naoussa, Macedonia, Greece (#23218) (XD) - $20.95  90 pts  wine review

 

• ALEJANDRO FERNÁNDEZ DEHESA LA GRANJA 2018 - Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León, Spain (#192476) (XD) - $22.95  91+ pts  wine review
• POLIZIANO ROSSO DI MONTEPULCIANO 2022 - DOC, Tuscany, Italy (#22795) (XD) - $24.95
• RICASOLI BROLIO BETTINO CHIANTI CLASSICO 2021 - Sustainable, DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#630939) (XD) - $27.95
• DESCENDIENTES DE J. PALACIOS PÉTALOS 2022 - DO Bierzo, Spain (#446484) (XD) - $29.95
• THIRTY BENCH SMALL LOT PINOT NOIR 2021 - Sustainable, VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#44041) (XD) - $40.00  92 pts  wine review
• BACHELDER WISMER-PARKE SINGLE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2022 - VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#520379) (XD) - $54.95  OFE
• IL POGGIONE BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2019 - DOCG, Tuscany, Italy (#551176) (XD) - $76.95  93 pts  wine review

White Wine:

• CASAL DI SERRA VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO SUPERIORE 2023 - Sustainable, DOC, Marche, Italy (#268169) (XD) - $18.95  88+ pts  wine review
• TE PA PA ROAD MARLBOROUGH PINOT GRIS 2024 - Sustainable, Vegan, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (#41804) (XD) - $18.95
• PLANETA LA SEGRETA GRILLO 2023 - Sustainable, DOC Sicilia, Italy (#39442) (XD) - $19.95  90+ pts  wine review
• TRIUS DISTINCTION SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#19379) (XD) - $19.95
• AGANIS DI FLABE RIBOLLA GIALLA 2023 - DOC Colli Orientali del Friuli, Italy (#39744) (XD) - $22.95  90+ pts  wine review
• AVELEDA SOLOS DE GRANITO ALVARINHO 2022 - Vegan, DOC Vinho Verde, Portugal (#17514) (XD) - $24.95  91 pts  wine review
• HIDDEN BENCH ESTATE RIESLING 2020 - VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#183491) (D) - $24.95
• LE CLOS JORDANNE JORDAN VILLAGE CHARDONNAY 2021 - VQA Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada (#20455) (XD) - $30.00  90+ pts  wine review
• BACHELDER LES VILLAGES BENCH CHARDONNAY 2022 - VQA Niagara Escarpment, Ontario, Canada (#16059) (XD) - $34.95  OFE  91+ pts  wine review
• TESSELAARSDAL CHARDONNAY 2023 - Vegan, WO Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, South Africa (#32933) (XD) - $49.95  OFE

Fortified Wine:

• VENÂNCIO COSTA LIMA MOSCATEL DE SETÚBAL 2021 - DOC, Portugal (#42991) (S) - $18.95  91 pts  wine review

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Château Guillou 2022 (Bordeaux) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is the latest vintage of a terrific wine that I've had the pleasure of enjoying several times over the years, including most recently the 2020 Château Guillou a couple of years ago. This Merlot-Cabernet Franc blend arrived at the LCBO as part of the recent March 1 LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection and is widely available across Ontario.

It is produced by Domaine Familly Saby, a winegrowing family of oenologists with a long history of viticulture and winemaking in Bordeaux that goes back nine generations, with knowledge passed down from father to son since the 18th century. Today, the family business is led by Jean-Bernard Saby, the eighth generation of the family, and his two sons - Jean-Christophe and Jean-Philippe. Considered specialists in Bordeaux's Right Bank, the Saby family owns and operates several estates in this historic region of France, one of which is Château Guillou. The Saby family has successfully combined tradition with modernity to craft exemplary wines, while also focusing on sustainable viticulture.

The estate and vineyard of Château Guillou has existed in its current form since 1870. Situated in the highly-esteemed Montagne-Saint-Émilion AOC, just north of neighbouring Émilion and east of Pomerol, on Bordeaux's Right Bank, the estate has 62 hectares of vines. Most of the vines are planted on a plateau featuring clay-limestone soils, and hillsides with clayey-silty soils. Wines in this region are typically Merlot-based blends, with Château Guillou following tradition. This particular red wine is composed of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. The grapes were traditionally hand-picked and sorted on tables. To vinify this red, the grapes underwent a cold soak pre-fermentation and foulage, a temperature-controlled fermentation, and malolactic fermentation. It was aged in a combination of second- and third-use French and American oak barrels.

The 2022 growing season began with higher than average rainfall in December, followed by two months of unusually warm and dry weather. March was slightly warmer, with a little more rain than average. Budbreak was slightly delayed due to a cool and wet March, and occurred after a couple of severe frost episodes that appeared at the beginning of April. Vine development was slowed during this period, but sped back up in the latter half of April. Mid-flowering and mid-véraison were both occurring earlier than usual due to intense heat episodes, with June being one of the hottest Junes since 1947! July was hot and dry and featured the second heatwave, which stressed the vines on free-draining soils, followed by a third heatwave in mid-August. From this period onwards, the weather was warm to very hot, and mostly dry. These conditions resulted in the earliest harvest ever for the region. From a surprisingly good vintage, let's see how this 2022 Montagne-Saint-Émilion red wine from the Right Bank of Bordeaux is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

CHÂTEAU GUILLOU 2022 - AC Montagne-Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux, France (#140483) (XD) - $23.95
This blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc is fragrant and open, with a medium-high intensity nose that has a whisper of reductiveness followed by lovely ripe, plummy, black & red fruit, cherry, blackberry, and currant aromas nuanced with savoury earth, oak, and touches of mineral. Floral notes emerge with time in the glass. The medium+ to medium-full bodied palate is deliciously ripe with plummy, black & red fruits, cherry, blackberry, currant, cocoa, and savoury earthy oak flavours. It has crisp and juicy acidity, while the ripe tannins have a supple, slightly chalky textured grip. Touch of florality and spice on the mid-palate, while the berry notes taper to cocoa, savoury earth, and minerals on the long, succulent finish. Should drink nicely over the next 5-6 years. Highly recommended buy! Score: 90+ pts

One other wine by Domaine Famille Saby is available at the LCBO, while the full portfolio can be ordered through their Agent - Noble Estates Wines & Spirits.

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Kir-Yianni Cuvée Villages Xinomavro 2021 (Greece) - Wine Review

Tonight's red wine review is an excellent, vegan-certified Xinomavro that is featured as a Food & Drink Discovery and was part of the Women in Wine theme in last weekend's March 1st LCBO VINTAGES New Release Collection.

Like the excellent 2023 Kir-Yianni Le Nord Assyrtiko I enjoyed last year, this red wine is produced by Kir-Yianni, a renowned Greek winery that was established in 1997 by the late Yiannis Boutaris (1942-2024). From the renowned Boutaris family, Yiannis was one of the leading figures in the Greek wine industry right up until his passing last year.

Yiannis left the family's wine business to chart his own path in the eastern foothills of Mt. Vermion, in Yianakohori, near the town of Naoussa, where he planted 40 hectares of Xinomavro vines in 1970. This vineyard would go on to become the Ktima Kir-Yianni. More vines would be planted in 1985, followed by the acquisition of an old winery in 1996 in the village of Agios Panteleimon. A year later, the old winery was completely rebuilt to become the new Ktima Kir-Yianni, with the first vintage entirely vinified at the new winery.

Today, Kir-Yianni is led by Yiannis' son, Stellios Boutaris, who is the fifth generation of the Boutaris family of winemakers. After becoming managing director of Kir-Yianni in 1999, Stellios was joined soon thereafter by his brother, Mihalis, who had returned from his studies at UC Davis. During this period, there was intense experimentation and research on the Xinomavro varietal. The results of these experiments were a new generation of Xinomavro wines borne in 2003, along with 28 hectares of vines that were re-planted mainly with Xinomavro and other Greek varieties between 2004 and 2006. In 2009, Kir-Yianni acquired another 10 hectares of vineyards to become one of Greece's largest vineyards.

The philosophy at Kir-Yianni is a fine balance between a hundred-year-long family tradition and the use of new and innovative winemaking techniques. The aim of Kir-Yianni is to produce appealing wines that reflect the potential of the Greek vineyard and its indigenous varieties. Activities in the vineyard and at the winery are based on the principles of integrated farming and protecting the environment. The core practices at Kir-Yianni include taking care of the vineyard, implementing strict selection policies on the vine and in the cellar, micro-vinification, and meticulously blending, thus endowing Kir-Yianni wines with typicity, ageing potential, and consistent quality from vintage to vintage. At Kir-Yianni, sustainability is both a philosophy and a vital business decision that entails dedication, realism, and systematic investment, and in 2023 they started their journey to carbon neutrality.

Margarita Koumpiou is the reason why this wine is part of the Women in Wine feature in this VINTAGES Release. Margarita holds an integrated master's degree in crop science, an honours M.A. in oenology, and a diploma in food and beverage quality management. At Kir-Yianni, Margarita is an oenologist and works closely with Stellios.

This red wine is crafted using 100% Xinomavro that was grown in various villages across PDO Naoussa. More specifically, it was crafted using a strict selection of estate-grown grapes from younger vines, as well as parcels from small vine growers. The villages of Naoussa offer an interesting diversity of terroir, including their hilly terrains, altitude, slope, soil structure, and orientation, conditions which provide an intriguing mixture of meso-climates. To vinify this wine, the grapes were immediately cooled upon hand-harvesting, then underwent a rigorous grape selection on a conveyor belt. The grapes were then cold soaked at low temperatures for 6 days, followed by fermentation in stainless steel tanks at temperatures of 20–23°C for 12 to 15 days. After undergoing malolactic fermentation, the wine was matured mainly in 225- and 500-litre French oak barrels for 12 months in a combination of new and 3rd to 5th use barrels. The first blend was made on the 6th month of maturation, while the final blend was completed just before bottling.

The 2021 growing season in Naoussa began with a typical winter, followed by a cool March that resulted in a longer time for budbreak to complete. Dry conditions with significant diurnal variation in April and May led to a slightly early flowering, while summer began with hail in June, which decreased yields in the affected areas. July and August were characterized by long heatwaves and dry conditions, which resulted in the rapid (and positive) development of veraison in early August. From September onwards, weather conditions were typical and back to ideal standards, which allowed for the full ripening of Xinomavro. To ensure optimum ripeness, the grapes were handpicked in stages from late-September to mid-October. From a different year with positive results and great uniformity, let's see how this 2021 Xinomavro from Greece is tasting tonight...

Tasting Note:

KIR-YIANNI CUVÉE VILLAGES XINOMAVRO 2021 - Vegan, PDO Naoussa, Greece (#14151) (XD) - $18.00
Fragrant, intense, and slightly perfumed nose of red and dark cherry, rose floral, and touches of orange peel layered over savoury earth, plus accents of oak spice and sun-dried tomato adding further intrigue and complexity. On the dry, medium-full bodied palate it has lovely ripe red & black cherry, blackberry, savoury earth, oak spice, sun-dried tomato, and rose floral flavours supported by juicy acidity and well-structured, medium-firm, and fairly grippy tannins that are youthful, yet approachable. Cherry, earthy, and floral notes with a slight tang and some minerality lingering on the very long finish. Highly recommended buy! Score: 91 pts

Several other fantastic wines by Kir-Yianni are available at the LCBO, while the full range can be ordered through their Agent - Kolonaki Fine Wines & Spirits.

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